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Fratello
We’ve kept our collective lips zipped about the new Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion after seeing it during Geneva Watch Days 2024. Now it’s ready to debut in a choice of two case finishes. The UR-150 Scorpion hosts a new movement and an enhanced complication. As always with Urwerk, it’s a feast for the eyes! During our […] Visit Stung By The New Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion! to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Check out the new Timex Deepwater Reef 200 Titanium Automatic - perhaps the brand's greatest dive watch ever with a titanium case.
SJX Watches
Continuing with affordable complications, H. Moser & Cie.’s latest is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a collaboration with Massena Lab. The most affordable Moser chronograph, the new Endeavour is powered by an in-house calibre with an added chronograph module. Loosely based on Moser’s 1940s pocket watch chronographs, the Endeavour Chronograph has a “Compax” layout with twin registers, luminous Arabic numerals, and a historical Moser logo. Though the retro design is atypical for Moser, the dial and case are still in classic Moser style, with the dial sporting a “funky blue” gradient finish. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common but Moser does them sparingly, mostly sticking with its signature minimalist, contemporary designs. The Endeavour Chronograph is the brand’s first vintage-inspired release outside of its Heritage collection. The Endeavour Chronograph is executed well, and affordable for a Moser chronograph. It costs less than half the Streamliner chronograph that’s equipped with the innovative Agenhor calibre. Because of the entry-level pricing, h0wever, the Endeavour Chronograph is constrained in certain ways, most notably in terms of the movement. Though the base calibre is Moser’s in-house automatic, the chronograph comes via a Dubois-Depraz module. It’s still a competent technical solution, but not as sophisticated as an integrated chronograph (and an in-house integrated construction would not be CHF25,000). Vintage styling The Endeav...
WatchAdvice
From the Arctic to the Everyday: The New Terra Nova Evolution What We Love: The new look for the Terra Nova is suited for everyday wear. The blue gradient dial is stunning in person. Polished finishing on the case and bezel gives the watch a luxury look. What We Don’t: The constant seconds counter is oversized for dial. Movement and power reserve can be better to suit modern standards. Minute track can be slimmed down so dial appears less busy. Final Score: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.0/10 Build Quality: 8.0/10 During Watches and Wonders earlier this year, Bremont released numerous timepieces for its Terra Nova collection, with various colour schemes and strap options. This Terra Nova collection can be seen as the brand’s redirection, as in early 2023, the company announced a change of leadership with Davide Cerrato taking over the reins. But let’s take a step back and look at what Bremont was as a watch brand before this new, modern direction took over. As a watchmaker, Bremont has a relatively short history compared to some of the other luxury watch manufacturers; however, in this short span of time, they have already created some memorable timepieces. The story in which the brand was found is also quite the tale! Bremont Founders Nick and Giles English. Image Reference: Bremont.com Bremont was founded in 2002 by British brothers Nick and Giles English. The brothers were drawn to watchmaking and to ultimately created a watch brand t...
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross is expanding on their enthusiast focused BR-X5 with a boutique edition iridescent dial variant, housing their manufacture calibre BR-CAL.323. For those that aren’t already familiar with the BR-X5 launched in 2022, this is a relatively higher tier regular production watch compared to the rest of the Bell & Ross lineup – featuring a semi-skeletonized weight minimizing case that has been hollowed out on the sides, from the lugs and down through the crown guards. While the main features and aesthetic design of the watch have remained relatively untouched from the previous variants, the iridescent dial is the star of the show on this new reference, creating playful hue transitions from blue to green, with hints of purple. The color shifting is very similar to that seen on the shell of a beetle, or on mother of pearl dials, but in this instance the light effect isn’t naturally created, rather it’s a chemical creation derived from multiple thin layers of PVD coating. Not only does the dial have a one of a kind manufacturing process, but the effect has been accentuated by overlaying it with a sunray effect. The overall vibe of what used to be a more serious, tool-like watch, is now toned down a touch to bring in some casual playfulness. The BR-CAL.323 automatic movement beats at 28,800 VPH, and is holding a generous 70 hours of power reserve which makes the watch a great daily wear contender. The movement has also been designed to display a rather large pow...
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Worn & Wound
Brew has had quite a run with their Metric chronograph. When the watch first appeared in the summer of 2021, it was clear that the brand had a hit on their hands, but it’s grown into what I think could fairly be called full fledged phenomenon status. Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer has found nearly endless ways to change up the look of the watch with different dial colors and coatings to the case and bracelet, and an automatic version was released last year that could prove to be a jumping off point for a slew of new more complicated Metrics. Through all of these releases, the Metric has become something of a calling card in indie and microbrand watch circles. It’s kind of the ultimate approachable insider’s watch – wearing one immediately makes it clear that you are part of the enthusiast world, and not just wearing a watch to tell the time (or time an espresso shot). The latest Metric, released just in time for Windup New York City, is the Metric Star, which is meant to evoke a more refined aesthetic, according to the brand. The new Metric Star has a gold tone dial with a brushed, sunray finish, and accents in red and blue. The outer scale for chronograph seconds is particularly clever, with a blue section highlighted against the remainder of the scale in red in the proper place for that perfect espresso shot. It’s another very nicely executed dial from Brew. This one in particular, I think, gives off a classic 70s sports watch energy. It’s the gold dial, clea...
SJX Watches
Released in 1965 as an inexpensive watch for young people, the Tissot Stylist has just been brought back to life for the same reason. Featuring a minimalist, retro aesthetic with a cushion-shaped case, the Stylist is thin at 7 mm high and contains a quartz movement. Retailing for just US$275, the Stylist is one of the most affordable offerings from an establishment Swiss brand, putting it in the same price range as startup micro-brands sold only online. Initial thoughts Tissot is a Swiss brand with a noteworthy history, but now focuses on (very) affordable watches. Though the Stylist is a basic proposition – steel and quartz – it fits perfectly into the Tissot value equation. The Stylist is a vintage-inspired design with a historical basis – and history is something micro-brands lack – at an extremely low price. The version with a gradient blue dial is particularly retro and appealing. For the teenage (or even child) watch enthusiast, this is a good choice. Retro blue The original Stylist was actually a line of various watches launched in 1965 as a watch for the young. Available in a range of case shapes, the Stylist was conceived to be trendy and affordable. The modern Stylist is modelled on one of the cushion-shaped originals, and retains the compact sizing of the original. Its stainless steel case is 32 mm in diameter and just 7 mm. Though basic, the case has a robust modern construction. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal and water resistant to 50 m. Notably,...
Fratello
Three years ago, I had the pleasure of wearing the Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet for a little while. The combination of a 40mm steel case with a characteristic stepped bezel, a classic white dial, and a complete-calendar caliber proved an impressive watch at a competitive price. I wrote that the watch that bucks the retro […] Visit A Monday-Morning Reunion With The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet to read the full article.
SJX Watches
While the history of the Rolex diver’s watch begins with the Oyster Perpetual Submariner of 1953, one of the brand’s landmark achievement in water-resistant cases is more recent: the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea launched in 2008 that incorporates the Ringlock system. With the innovative Ringlock system, Rolex surmounted an enduring obstacle in building a deeper-diving watch – a case that grew in proportion to the depth rating. The Ringlock system is a patented case architecture that fundamentally rethought the traditional approach to a diver’s watch, which allowed the Rolex Deepsea to achieve a water-resistance rating of 3,900 m with a 44 mm case. The utility of the Ringlock was proven in 2022 with the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge that took the Oyster case to the limits of horological engineering. Featuring a 50 mm case in RLX titanium, the Deepsea Challenge is water resistant to 11,000 m – the all-time water-resistance record for a mechanical wristwatch. The latest addition to the deep-diving collection, the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea in 18k yellow gold. Image – Rolex A deep history The history of Rolex is inextricably intertwined with the water-resistant wristwatch. Six years after establishing the brand in 1908, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf wrote to Bienne-based movement maker Aegler, “We must find a way to create a waterproof wristwatch”. By 1926, Wilsdorf had achieved his goal with the launch of the Oyster, a waterproof wristwatch which ha...
SJX Watches
Best known for its TV-shaped watch, Hautlence marks its 20th anniversary this year with something radically different, but also entirely apt: the Retrovision ’47. Cleverly inspired by a 1940s radio, the watch has a titanium case painted in a bright green that contains a self-winding movement with a flying tourbillon. Though it’s powered by an existing movement (borrowed from Moser), the Retrovision ’47 is the brand’s first all-new model in a long time. Whether it marks a new direction for the brand is unknown, but it definitely makes a statement. Initial thoughts The Retrovision ’47 is a weird and interesting watch that is a surprisingly creative take on the vintage-inspired timepiece. Even though it is outlandish, the Retrovision ’47 is coherent. The watch achieves what it sets out to do: instantly evokes a vintage radio. It’s paradoxical in several ways: not exceptionally large, but it stands out because of its shape and colour. And at a distance, the Retrovision ’47 resembles a plastic toy, but up close the fit and finish make it clear that this is a high-end watch. I doubt I would wear one, but Hautlence should be commended for doing something bold and different. Beyond the watch itself, however, Hautlence still needs work. Weird and wonderful as it is, the Retrovision ’47 doesn’t explain where Hautlence is going, or even what the brand is really all about now. Even though the watch has a quirky, intrinsic appeal, the brand behind it still needs cla...
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Time+Tide
Alpina's sportiest sports watch's imposing aesthetic is made more accessible with a slightly smaller case diameter.The post Alpina’s beefy Alpiner Extreme becomes more wearable with new 39mm options appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Unquestionably one of the best-selling models at Oris, the Divers Sixty-Five resurfaced after a period of dormancy in 2015 with its vintage appeal and ancestor’s traits practically intact. A year later, Oris revisited its Divers Sixty-Five in a limited edition with a larger 42mm diameter and a bronze case dedicated to Carl Brashear with a […]
Fratello
What could you do to make a time-only watch distinctive? How about letting the case rotate up to 90° to adjust the dial to the ideal position when driving? You don’t even have to be a petrolhead to appreciate Dutch independent watchmaker Laurens de Rijke and his latest collaboration with Guy Allen. Designs make watches […] Visit Hands-On With The De Rijke & Co. Guy Allen “Land” From The Amalfi Series to read the full article.
Monochrome
When the Big Bang exploded on the watch scene in 2005, it was the paragon of an oversized, high-octane, octagonal sports watch flaunting an unusual fusion of materials. A decade later, the Spirit of Big Bang joined the lineup of Hublot. Embracing a similar concept, the Spirit proposed a more complex case with a tonneau-shaped, […]
Deployant
Press Release by Seiko Watch Corp. Seiko Watch Corporation is proud to announce that it will increase the worldwide warranty period to three years on Seiko brand timepieces* purchased at any authorized Seiko retailer. Taking effect from October 1, 2024, the new warranty will continue to cover the watch head (movement and case) and metalRead More
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Monochrome
A fairly niche brand from Japan, Minase has recently gained popularity with its nicely designed watches and complex cases, built around concepts of multiple windows. Minase doesn’t focus on watchmaking but mostly on external parts. Yet, there is a watch that feels far more simple and elegant, the M-3, with its classic case construction – […]
Worn & Wound
There are few things that I enjoy writing about more than a crazy new watch from Bell & Ross. These watches are catnip for me, whether it’s something along the lines of my beloved Multimeter, a watch incorporating a giant skull, or a case that gets the full lume treatment, I can’t help myself. Bell & Ross, when they’re weird, is one of my all time favorite brands, full stop. So it was with a great deal of interest that I came across the announcement of the all new BR-03 Horizon limited edition last week, the latest in the brand’s series of watches inspired by on-board aircraft instrumentation. Of course, it could be argued that any of the square cased Bell & Ross watches share this inspiration, sharing an aesthetic as they do with a kind of generic idea of a gauge that you might see in a cockpit, but the watches in this series take a more literal approach. The BR-03 Gyrocompass, for instance, has a dial that is dressed up as, well, a gyrocompass. And this limited edition, along those same lines, brings the artificial horizon to your wrist. The artificial horizon is an essential tool for pilots, providing them with basic spatial orientation that is essential for safely piloting an aircraft. The gauge is quite simple, and shows at a quick glance an approximation of a an aircraft’s position relative to the surface of the earth. It’s particularly important for pilots flying in conditions where visibility might be an issue, such as in the dark or night or through ...
Monochrome
Presented in 1975, the Laureato was Girard-Perregaux’s proposal of a luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet, a round dial with an octagonal bezel, a tonneau-shaped case and a quartz movement. Produced three years after the Royal Oak but well before the Nautilus, the Laureato resurfaced in 2016 with limited editions followed by serial […]
SJX Watches
Last year Vacheron Constantin (VC) the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding ref. 82172, a fresh variant of the brand’s longstanding time-only dress watch. Combining an 18k pink gold case with a sunburst green dial, the new Traditionnelle is an unusual and bold twist on the traditional formal wear timepiece. Although compact in dimensions and formal in style, it stands out as dress watch that different without trying too hard. Initial thoughts The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is arguably VC’s quintessential dress watch. It has a traditional aesthetic and perfect proportions at 38 mm. And though it’s an entry-level model, it features upscale details like solid-gold indices and hands, along with a refined movement. The most familiar iteration of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is pink gold with a silver dial, which is classic but perhaps too plain for some. Similarly, most dress watches, VC or otherwise, tend to be in conservative colours, silver, cream, black and so on. The new Traditionnelle Manual-Winding, on the other hand, is a striking metallic green that’s flashy but not overly so. The combination is unconventional as a dress watch, but it works well. And it’s also one of the most affordable dress watches in the brand’s catalogue. Only the Patrimony 40 mm is less expensive but that has the slightly simpler cal. 1400 movement. The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding on the other hand sports the higher-end cal. 4400 AS, a large movement with a long power reserve that...
Monochrome
Rado is renowned for its pioneering use of scratch-resistant materials, starting with its 1962 DiaStar watch with a tungsten carbide case and culminating with its extensive use of high-tech ceramic since 1986. The brand is also synonymous with contemporary design-led watches like the True Square family launched in 2020 with its square high-tech ceramic case […]
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Fratello
Do you want to hunt with the hounds and run with the hare? In that case, Seiko has got you covered. What? Is that too cryptic for you? If you want an ultra-precise quartz watch that connects to GPS satellites circling the globe and takes its energy from light but looks like a traditional, mechanical […] Visit For Those Who Just Want It Both Ways: Seiko Offers Three Prospex Speedtimer GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph Models to read the full article.
Deployant
This week, we take a look at the case for the couple watch. We include the traditional definition of two watches. But also one watch to be shared.
Worn & Wound
Earlier this spring, when the Worn & Wound team was in Switzerland for Watches & Wonders, we had a somewhat impromptu meeting with the Holthinrichs team at a very pleasant but nondescript Geneva coffee shop, somewhat off the beaten path of watch fair hysteria that grips the city during show season. It was there that we got our first look at the Signature Collection, a major shift in strategy for the brand, now planning to offer watches with a familiarly intricate case design but at a much lower price point than previous collections, thanks to new manufacturing partnerships and a retreat from 3D printing, a process that simply became to expensive as the brand’s designs became more complex. Founder Michiel Holthinrichs also told us about an ambitious new project during this meeting, the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that sits squarely in the haute horlogerie space. At that last meeting, Michiel only had renders of the Ornament Nouveau to show us on his phone, and some crude 3D printed prototype cases (in plastic) of the Signature Collection. Just a few months later, I sat down with Michiel and his team once again, at that same coffee shop, and was able to lay my hands on real watches that were every bit as impressive as I had hoped they’d be. It was a particular treat to see the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that the team is immensely proud of. A quick caveat – we’re still dealing with prototypes here in the case of the Signature Collection pieces. The team had hoped to be...
Deployant
Hanhart releases a new watch which they call the Preventor HD12 in a new scratch-resistant steel case. Available in leather strap or steel bracelet.
SJX Watches
For the 65th of its trademark vintage dive watch of the 1960s, Longines is giving the modern remake a set of new colours. The new Legend Diver is essentially extensions of last year’s release, retaining the double-crown case in the smaller 39 mm size and gaining new dial colours in green, terracotta, or anthracite grey. The model is equipped with a “grains-of-rice” stainless steel bracelet with a micro-adjustment feature. Initial thoughts While many brands, namely Rolex and Blancpain, have established a familiar template for the dive watch, Longines has its a distinct design with the Legend Diver that has its characteristic Super Compressor case with two crowns and internal bezel. The design isn’t unique to Longines but the brand has arguably been most successful with it in the modern day And compared to other Super Compressor-style divers in this price range, the Legend Diver has the advantage of a higher-spec movement in the form of the COSC-certified L888.6 with 72 hours of power reserve. This makes the Legend Diver an appealing and affordable watch that’s priced at US$3,400. Lacquered colours The highlight of the release are the lacquered dial in green, terracotta and anthracite grey. The colour extends to the rotating bi-directional bezel designed for measuring dive time. The bezel can be rotated utilising the screw-in crown at two o’clock. The dial layout is symmetrical with no date, and features elongated indices and raised Arabic numerals coated with Su...
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