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Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk Nov 6, 2025

Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V

You have to hand it to Christopher Ward; they’ve been on a hell of a run. What was once a bit of an ‘also-ran’ brand with a stable of somewhat generic dive and dress watches has become a near-peerless independent powerhouse, turning out hit after hit and creating converts everywhere they (or at least their impressively enthusiastic team) go. Their latest offering, the C1 Jump Hour Mk V - released today - revives a complication with which the brand has a long history, and is sure to bring yet more converts to the fold. Now, despite a sense of increased affection for the English brand in the last few years and its general rise in popularity, I’ve not spent much time writing about Christopher Ward. I’ve also, outside of quick hits at Windup fairs and in passing moments, spent shockingly little hands-on time with the brand’s recent offerings. So when I was offered the chance to spend a few days with their latest release, I leapt at the opportunity, curious to see if I’d be pulled into the ranks of the converted, as so many of my colleagues at Worn & Wound have been. I’ve now spent much of the last week with the Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V on my wrist, and I have to admit, I’m somewhat smitten. The Christopher Ward JJ01 Jump hour watches have been having a bit of a moment in the sun recently, but they’re nothing new to Christopher Ward. The brand introduced its first jump hour watch all the way back in 2011. The brand’s foray into the jump hour ...

Micro-Brand Fair Spring Sprang Sprung Returns to Singapore SJX Watches
Nivada Grenchen Nov 4, 2025

Micro-Brand Fair Spring Sprang Sprung Returns to Singapore

Now taking place for the fifth year, Spring Sprang Sprung (SPRG) is a watch fair dedicated to micro-brands that is returning in November 2025. The Singapore-based event has grown from 22 brands in its first year to over 50 this year. The exhibitor list this year includes brands from Finland to China, as well as names that are arguably more established than the average micro-brand, like Oris, Nivada Grenchen, and Seagull. Also exhibiting are accessories makers, like Yi Leather that makes watch straps. As with past iterations of SPRG, the event includes workshops, one of which is a leather working class led by the proprietor of Yi Leather. SPRG’s founders are a pair integral to the micro-brand scene in Singapore: Sugiharto Kusumadi, who was a pioneering retailer of micro-brands when he founded Red Army Watches in 2004, and Yong Keong Lim, who owns Feynman Timekeepers and runs retailer BIG Time. According to its founders, SPRG aims to be “casual, welcoming, and inclusive… [bringing] together independent watch brand owners, enthusiasts, and newcomers to share their passion for horology”. SPRG takes place at the at the National Design Centre, November 8-9, 2025, from 11 am-7 pm. National Design Centre 111 Middle Road Singapore 188969 The event is open to the public, but workshops are ticketed with tickets available at Spring-sprang-sprung.com.  

The Eight Best Italian Watch Brands in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 1, 2025

The Eight Best Italian Watch Brands in 2026

Watchmaking is a trade that draws artisans and enthusiasts from around the globe, though as an industry it has taken root in only a relative handful of nations. Switzerland, of course, is widely recognized as the world leader in the horological arts, but nations including Japan and Germany have also made a name for themselves on the world watchmaking stage. As watch connoisseurship grows in the 21st century, former watchmaking powers like Great Britain, the United States, and France have started increasing their footprint in the industry. Italy, another country historically renowned for its meticulous craftsmanship and bold, stylish design language, has exerted its own small but impactful influence on the world of watches: it’s the birthplace of Panerai, for example, a brand that essentially opened the door for old-school military tool watches to enter the rarefied air of luxury. It’s also the ancestral home of Bulgari, which, despite being more famous for its jewelry, has earned awestruck respect in the watch world for its record-breaking, boundary-pushing ultra-thin complications. Even Italy’s world-famous luxury sports-car marques - Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati - have exerted a muse-like influence on watchmakers worldwide, in both design and technology, often through direct partnerships. Watches actually made in Italy, however, are relatively few - Panerai and Bulgari are far too rooted in Switzerland nowadays to be considered for this list - but each co...

SJX Podcast: Breguet’s Big Pivot SJX Watches
Breguet s Big Pivot Oct 31, 2025

SJX Podcast: Breguet’s Big Pivot

On Episode 17 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon has just returned from WatchTime New York, an event that has emerged as the flagship watch fair in the United States since its debut in 2015. SJX shares his hands-on impressions of Breguet’s new ref. 7225, which features the return of the brand’s magnetic pivots and is the highlight of the 250th anniversary releases so far. We also examine the hamburger-sized 77 mm J. Player & Son ‘hypercomplication’ at Phillips – one of the most complicated and impressive British watches ever made, before wrapping up with a discussion about some of the pieces from JP Morgan’s own collection coming up in the same auction. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Industry News – With Tariffs Now in Place, Swiss Watch Exports to the U.S. Have Dropped 56% in September 2025 Monochrome
Oct 27, 2025

Industry News – With Tariffs Now in Place, Swiss Watch Exports to the U.S. Have Dropped 56% in September 2025

This announcement shouldn’t come as a surprise and was largely anticipated by the industry. Yet, now that the 39% import taxes imposed by the U.S. administration on Swiss goods entering American soil, also known as the tariffs, are effective (since the beginning of August), we clearly see the effects. And yes, there is no other […]

SJX Podcast: Freak Face-Off: Original vs. Freak S SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak – how does Oct 27, 2025

SJX Podcast: Freak Face-Off: Original vs. Freak S

On Episode 16 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss ongoing horology events in Paris and Singapore, and debrief on the new Piaget Andy Warhol. It’s also the debut of a new segment comparing two watches head-to-head. First up is the Ulysse Nardin Freak – how does the original, now 25 years old, stack up to the new Freak S? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Franck Muller’s Vanguard Mexico Edition is Patina’ed, Slim, Minimalist SJX Watches
Franck Muller Oct 24, 2025

Franck Muller’s Vanguard Mexico Edition is Patina’ed, Slim, Minimalist

Thin and time only, the Vanguard Slim is Franck Muller’s take on a modern dress watch. It’s been reimagined by the brand’s distributor in Mexico, Raconli Group, which tapped Marcos Cojab, an architect who’s also a sculptor working under the moniker Alquimiamc. The result is the Vanguard Alquimiamc clad in bronze – the case and dial are aged bronze, brushed by hand. The 15-piece edition is made up of two variants, one in the familiar Vanguard configuration, and another with a minimalist dial free of numerals. Thanks to the styling and materials, both versions are intriguing designs that depart from the usual Franck Muller style. Initial thoughts The Vanguard Slim is one of Franck Muller’s most appealing current models. While the typical Franck Muller is oversized and sometimes over designed, the Vanguard Slim is the opposite – the curved case is under 10 mm high, giving it an elegant profile, while the dial is cleaner thanks to just two hands. Earlier versions of the Vanguard Slim were already simple, but the Alquimiamc goes even further, with less obvious branding, though the version with numerals is still recognisable as the Vanguard. Instead the Alquimiamc emphasises the texture and shading of the aged bronze, which gives it an unusual appeal. Bronze inside and out The Alquimiamc edition is derived from the Vanguard Slim (also known as the Line Cut), a sleek time-only version of Franck Muller’s bestselling model. While the brand is best known for its ext...

From Page to Wrist: Adam Kubert Talks About Citizen’s Iron Man Collaboration Watch Fratello
Citizen s Iron Man Collaboration Oct 21, 2025

From Page to Wrist: Adam Kubert Talks About Citizen’s Iron Man Collaboration Watch

In an era when AI seems to be nibbling away at every corner of creativity, there’s something refreshing about seeing a brand choose human artistry over algorithms. Citizen’s latest Marvel collaboration, the Stark, Kinda Sorta Famous watch-and-pin set, is not only a nod to Tony Stark but also a showcase of what happens when you […] Visit From Page to Wrist: Adam Kubert Talks About Citizen’s Iron Man Collaboration Watch to read the full article.

Mineral Stones for Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Oct 21, 2025

Mineral Stones for Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon

It took a while, but Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 has matured enough that the new debuts are more likely to be interesting than not. The Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 38 mm with stone dials aren’t a novel proposition, but they are a trio of good looking watches that use the dial design of the Code 11.59 to maximum effect, while also scaling down the case to 38 mm and relying on the impressively constructed cal. 2968. Audemars Piguet (AP) has experimented with various unusual materials for the Code 11.59 dial – the onyx version was launched three years ago – all of which have evidently been commercially successful, explaining the three new models with dials in mineral stones of red ruby root, blue sodalite, and green malachite, respectively. Initial thoughts The Code 11.59 was widely panned at launch in 2019, occasionally unfairly, but it’s evolved in the right direction since. The new tourbillon line-up illustrates this. The wide, relatively deep-set dial of the Code 11.59 makes it a good platform to show off dial patterns and textures, especially when executed in a minimalist way as it is done here. Mineral stone dials are recent fad, so the new Code 11.59 tourbillons aren’t revolutionary, but they look good. The three watches are each in a different colour of gold, but share the same case dimensions of 38 mm by 9.6 mm, making them smaller and thinner than the original, 41 mm version of the Code 11.59 tourbillon. The downsizing gives the case a sur...

The 57 Best Swiss Watch Brands: A Complete Guide for 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 20, 2025

The 57 Best Swiss Watch Brands: A Complete Guide for 2026

If you were to ask the average person on the street in any part of the world which nation comes to mind when they think about luxury watches, they’d likely not hesitate in naming Switzerland. While the realities of the international watch industry are more complex, and several other nations, such as Japan and Germany, are also prominent makers of excellent luxury watches, Switzerland will always, justifiably, be regarded as the world center of fine watchmaking. The country's longtime reputation for watch excellence springs not only from the sheer number of industry giants that call it home - including household names like Rolex, Omega, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet - but also from its world-renowned reputation for expertise in all the various crafts that go into fine watchmaking. The Swiss watch industry is as vast as it is complex, with different brands offering varying specialties in a wide range of price points for export around the globe.With all of that in mind, trying to boil down the Swiss watch industry to a subjective list of major players is a bit of a daunting task, as there are many dozens of brands worthy of inclusion. Here we attempt to provide a brief overview of some of the most prominent brands in the Swiss watch industry to give you a basic understanding of what makes each one special. For each brand, we'll provide a bit of history, showcase its major milestones and most important watches, and offer a bit of insight on w...

Introducing: The Hermès H08 Chronographe In Naples Yellow Fratello
Hermes Oct 20, 2025

Introducing: The Hermès H08 Chronographe In Naples Yellow

Hermès surprised us a couple of years ago when the French fashion house launched a chronograph among its colorful time-and-date H08 editions. Stealth-launching products is not new for Hermès. The low-key tactic allows clients to discover new pieces for themselves without a deluge of flashy hype campaigns. The gentle marketing ripple in the brand’s horology […] Visit Introducing: The Hermès H08 Chronographe In Naples Yellow to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Review: The Retro Classic Returns Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Oct 18, 2025

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Review: The Retro Classic Returns

The twangs and pangs of nostalgia are a powerful emotional experience, and as we’ve seen across nearly every commercial industry in recent years, they make for an effective marketing strategy. We’ve been subjected to the ploys of the nostalgia scheme for the past decade and some change, and there has been no other watch release this year that has channeled it more intensely than the revival of TAG Heuer’s Formula 1. I would also say that, despite being something people wanted to see happen for years now, the new 2025 reimagining of the brand’s colorful, so-80s-it-almost-hurts line has been one of the most polarizing releases of the year – a mixed bag of people welcoming the collection with open arms, and others who were already exhausted from the hype of the limited edition KITH collaboration that predated it by just a few months. Today, we’ll be running through the controversy and sentimentality of the current TAG Heuer Formula 1 collection, making a pit stop in the '80s to trace the evolution of the line before racing into the quick and dirty of what you need to know about it as it stands.  TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Context Our story begins with the ultimate crisis point for the watch industry – the quartz crisis. Heuer was becoming a casualty in the advent of quartz movements, and, in spite of its racing history, the brand was struggling to keep up the pace with Japanese brands like Seiko and Citizen that were pumping out cheaply priced quartz watche...

This Is Chronoswiss: The Independent Brand That Defied The Quartz Crisis Fratello
Chronoswiss Oct 18, 2025

This Is Chronoswiss: The Independent Brand That Defied The Quartz Crisis

It’s not exactly a secret that I love my Chronoswiss Timemaster. It’s a love that won’t die. When you own a watch for over 25 years and still feel a spark when you strap it on, you know this is the real deal. It also means I closely follow what the brand is up to. […] Visit This Is Chronoswiss: The Independent Brand That Defied The Quartz Crisis to read the full article.

Introducing – The Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic 39mm California Dial Monochrome
Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic 39mm Oct 17, 2025

Introducing – The Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic 39mm California Dial

Alpina gained a head start in the sports watch market in 1938 with its Alpina 4, a robust model featuring shock and water-resistant properties, anti-magnetic capabilities, and a sturdy steel case. The heavy-duty Alpiner Extreme, revamped in 2022, is the rightful heir of the Alpina 4. Designed for outdoor adventures, the Alpiner Extreme is also […]

SJX Podcast: Primetime for Fashion Brands? SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Monterey Oct 15, 2025

SJX Podcast: Primetime for Fashion Brands?

On episode 14 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon Moore and SJX unpack the new Louis Vuitton Monterey and discuss where fashion brands fit in the contemporary fine watchmaking landscape. Are collectors who ignore these kinds of products intellectually lazy? We also cover the latest from Lange, which just added a stone onyx dial to the Saxonia Thin – is it the perfect watch for your next soiree? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Rolex 5513 Submariner Review: The Timeless Vintage Rolex? Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Oct 11, 2025

Rolex 5513 Submariner Review: The Timeless Vintage Rolex?

In the world of Rolex, most people’s minds go straight to rarity, unattainability, and exclusivity. And in so many cases that rings true – except (and you may find this hard to believe) for the Submariner. That’s right, Rolex’s stalwart and most ubiquitous watch is also, kind of, its most accessible on the secondary market… and I am talking vintage and neovintage here. Sure, there are rare examples like Explorer dials (we will get to that in a bit), and early ref. 1680 Red Submariners that fetch a pretty penny at auction or from a vintage dealer. But there’s a very real reason for that. Those watches in particular fall into a bucket shared by many collectible rarities: They were only produced for a very short period of time. But there were many variations of vintage Subs, some rarer than others. And some still that weren’t rare at all. And the best example of that is the Rolex 5513, a Submariner model so common that it was one of Rolex’s most popular and best selling over the course of its – wait for it – 17-year run. Rolex 5513 History The Rolex Submariner ref. 5513 was in production from 1962 until 1989, and while there are some pockets of special ref. 5513 models within that run, it is for the most part of one the brand’s longest-selling and most-produced Submariners, or even sports watches full stop (the Explorer ref. 1016 has entered the chat). In 1962, Rolex had been producing its Submariner reference 5512 for about three years. The 5512 was a n...

First Look – The New Hublot MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire Monochrome
Hublot MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash Oct 11, 2025

First Look – The New Hublot MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire

Hublot loves creative collisions and has turned collaboration into a design language. Beyond frequent partnerships with contemporary artists like Richard Orlinski, Maxime Plescia-Buchi, Takashi Murakami and Samuel Ross, the brand has also produced conservation-minded SORAI editions and an eco-driven Nespresso watch in recycled aluminium and rubber.  In 2024, Daniel Arsham’s MP-16 Arsham Droplet, a pocket […]