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The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: Why George Daniels’ Co-Axial Escapement Revolutionised Mechanical Watchmaking Worn & Wound
Breguet through Nov 26, 2024

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: Why George Daniels’ Co-Axial Escapement Revolutionised Mechanical Watchmaking

Editor’s Note: Today, the final installment of The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. Here, Andrew Canter examines the story behind the co-axial escapement, invented by George Daniels, industrialized by Omega, and now considered one of the great watchmaking innovations of all time.  You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. George Daniels (1926 – 2011) was raised in London in poverty. Aged five, he pried open his family’s alarm clock and realised that it was a metaphor for his life – always moving inexorably onwards, but without outside assistance. He was determined to learn horology, despite his parents’ opposition. He was conscripted into military service in 1944 which unleashed his innate mechanical skills, and following the end of the war, he studied horology, while repairing watches in North London.  He gained access to the work of the greatest watchmakers, particularly Abraham-Louis Breguet, through a meeting with a collector, and when it seemed that quartz technology would overwhelm traditional watchmaking, Daniels ensured this would not come to fruition. He made a series of increasingly ingenious mechanical watches, heavily influenced by Breguet, teaching himself to make every part, now referred to as the ‘Daniels Method’. Essentially, he devised a virtually oil-free escapement – the now iconic co-axial escapement – which was later mass-produced by Omega. It was anything but an easy journey, but George D...

The Watches We (the Worn & Wound Team) Don’t Wear Worn & Wound
Rado xically I will not Nov 25, 2024

The Watches We (the Worn & Wound Team) Don’t Wear

Earlier this month, Managing Editor Zach Kazan shared his thoughts on “Watches We Don’t Wear.” We thought this represented a good opportunity to get our staff and Worn & Wound contributors together to find out what watches are just kind of sitting in their own watch boxes, and why. Find those stories below, and let us know in the comments if you have a watch you don’t wear, but just can’t bring yourself to part with.  Devin Pennypacker  Did you know that you can order a pack of clear acrylic watch stands on Amazon for less than $15? Well, now you do. This year, I finally decided to do something with the pair of watches that paradoxically I will not wear and yet will never get rid of. Near and dear to my heart, these two watches spring from different eras of my watch enthusiasm and, of course, my preference for collecting.  The first is a black-on-black Nixon Time Teller fitted with a rubberized genuine faux leather strap. Dead long ago, the blacked-out seconds hand sits idle which would typically bother me but for the fact that it is backdropped by black hands and a black dial making legibility all but impossible. It was never practical, but boy did I feel cool wearing it. Stemming from my angsty youth and fascination with action sports, I would frequently stop into my local skate shop to try on visually loud Nike SB Dunks, flip through the clothing racks of black hoodies and cargo pants, and of course, oggle the well-lit Nixon display case. So, when I got my ...

Hands-On: The All-New Serica 1174 Parade With A Black Or Brass Sunburst Guilloché Dial Fratello
Serica 1174 Parade Nov 24, 2024

Hands-On: The All-New Serica 1174 Parade With A Black Or Brass Sunburst Guilloché Dial

Here at Fratello, we’ve closely followed Serica’s progress since its founding in 2019. We know the Parisian brand for its vintage-inspired yet fresh-looking and attractive watches. Both founders - Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette - pay great attention to (design) details. When they told us they were working on a dressier piece, it piqued our […] Visit Hands-On: The All-New Serica 1174 Parade With A Black Or Brass Sunburst Guilloché Dial to read the full article.

In-Depth: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, Materials and Mechanisms SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II Nov 19, 2024

In-Depth: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, Materials and Mechanisms

Perhaps the most recognisable travel watch in history, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master was launched in 1955, just as the world was entering the Jet Age of intercontinental travel. The inaugural GMT-Master model was the ref. 6542 that sported a distinctive bezel colour-coded in red and blue to distinguish day- and night-time. The coloured bezel would go on to become a defining feature of the GMT-Master and iconic within the wider genre of travel watches. Originally made of fragile Plexiglas, the bezel evolved into a robust anodised aluminium insert in 1959, the same year the GMT-Master became the official watch of Pan American World Airways, better known as Pan Am, then the world’s biggest airline. Rolex advertising from the 1950s celebrating the first non-stop transatlantic flight by Pan Am where both pilots wore the GMT-Master The GMT-Master earned iconic status with its functionality and technical excellence, but equal credit goes to the notable personalities individuals wearing a GMT-Master who witnessed, or even made, history. Astronaut Edgar Mitchell wore one on the Apollo 14 mission that landed on the Moon in February 1971. Several United States Air Force pilots set speed records while wearing a GMT-Master, including William J. Knight in 1967. And Val Kilmer sported one while playing Iceman in Top Gun. US Air Force pilot William J. Knight set an all-time speed record of 7,272 km/h (Mach 6.7) on October 3, 1967 in an X-15 rocket plane, while wearing a GMT-Mast...

A Rare Full Analog Model, New Attainable GMTs, and Elevated Kit Worn & Wound
Nov 17, 2024

A Rare Full Analog Model, New Attainable GMTs, and Elevated Kit

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available to consult with you and answer any questions. In addition, all these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post A Rare Full Analog Model, New Attainable GMTs, and Elevated Kit appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumiere We Nov 13, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumiere

We expect, at this point, Christopher Ward to impress us with showstopper releases from time to time. Whether it’s the Bel Canto, the Twelve X, or something comparatively more sedate like the C1 Moonphase, it’s clear that the brand has entered an era where they are willing and able to flex, expanding the very idea of what Christopher Ward is capable of. But not every watch is a stake in the ground. This is still a brand that, at the end of the day, has a core idea behind it, and that’s to offer straightforward value to their customers, whether they’re enthusiasts or not.   And that’s what makes the C60 Trident Lumiere one of this year’s big surprises. This is Christopher Ward operating squarely within their wheelhouse, but with little hints of the improved tech and manufacturing prowess that is highlighted in their marquee releases. The dramatic application of luminescent material is the highlight, but the case, dial, and bracelet represent years worth of incremental advancements the brand has made, and seeing them applied to a diver in their core collection could shift how you think about the brand.  In this video, Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan discuss their impressions of the C60 Trident Lumiere, how it fits in with the rest of the Christopher Ward collection, and why this watch has struck a chord with enthusiasts. Christopher Ward The post [VIDEO] Hands-On with the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumiere appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Fall 2024 SJX Watches
Rolex GMT-Master II “SARU” Nov 12, 2024

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Fall 2024

Perhaps the most surprising moment of the fall auction season in Geneva was when the hammer came down on an MoonSwatch at Christie’s for CHF69,300 including fees – exactly the same as a Rolex GMT-Master II “SARU” that sold later in the day. But as is almost always the case with record prices at auction, there was a story behind the price and a method to the madness. The MoonSwatch was the unique “millionth” example conceived specifically for this auction, where all proceeds went to ELA, a French medical charity. The ELA sale was spearheaded by Francois-Henri Pinault, the chief of Kering, the luxury conglomerate that owns Christie’s, and certainly one of the most influential people in the luxury goods business. Sitting in the room and opening the sale was Mr Pinault’s fellow trustee at ELA, Zinedine Zidane, the French footballer better known as Zizou who’s regarded as one of the all-time best players and coaches. Christie’s auctioneer Rahul Kadakia with Zizou. Image – Christie’s Bidding via phone, the winning bidder of the MoonSwatch – which sold for over 150 times the retail price – announced to the room via a Christie’s rep that his winning bid was for “ELA and Zizou”. It was clearly a statement that he or she would have paid up for whatever watch was on sale, regardless if it was plastic or precious metal. It was a good deed done that was no bearing on the MoonSwatch or watches in general. To the moon MoonSwatch aside, the season was pos...

Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Dial Fratello
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Nov 10, 2024

Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Dial

In April 2024, Zenith introduced the Defy Extreme Diver, a bold and modern dive watch. The brand is most famous for its chronographs, so a new diver is big news. The initial release brought a pair of black- and blue-dialed watches. Today, an icy silver version joins the lineup as a serial-production model. This year’s […] Visit Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Dial to read the full article.

First Look – The new Black/Platinum Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 Monochrome
Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante Nov 7, 2024

First Look – The new Black/Platinum Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887

First presented in 2017, the Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 came as a surprise, initiating an unprecedented design for the collection. This highly complex Breguet watch, first available in a platinum case with a blue dial, actually teased the complete revamp of the collection that occurred a year later. Three years later for the 220th […]

First Look – The All-Blue Titanium Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso Edition Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Nov 5, 2024

First Look – The All-Blue Titanium Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso Edition

Ten years ago, Bulgari’s launch of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon spearheaded the Italian brand’s march across the watchmaking landscape, razing records in the battle for ultra-thin movements/watches. Currently the holder of nine world records, the Octo Finissimo’s incredible mechanical feats are matched by the formidable geometry of its case, securing it a seat in the […]

Ulysse Nardin Unveils Freak X with Grand Feu Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Unveils Freak X Nov 5, 2024

Ulysse Nardin Unveils Freak X with Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Ulysse Nardin’s entry-level Freak has been dressed up with a flinque enamel dial in a limited edition for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the Middle East’s most prominent luxury watch retailer. The Freak X Enamel Seddiqi features a “Yas Blue” guilloché enamel dial with the signature carousel carrying an oversized oscillator and silicon escapement that acts as a minute hand. Initial thoughts The Freak X is a descendent of the original Freak, but simplified for user-friendliness and affordability. The Seddiqi edition combines the appeal of the Freak X with an artisan ally decorated dial – a combination of contrasts that are complementary. While the enamel might seem contrary to the high-tech nature of the Freak X, it complements the aesthetics of the watch. The striking, translucent enamel forms a pleasing backdrop for the carousel. Priced at AED154,000 or around US$42,000, the Freak X Enamel Seddiqi is a little more expensive than the base model Freak X, but still amongst the most affordable Freak models. Inversed calibre In 2001, Ulysse Nardin revolutionised watchmaking the Freak, a watch that reimagined the conventions of movement construction with an unprecedented design that relocated the going train and oscillator to double as the minute hand. And the watch was the first-ever application of silicon in watchmaking. The Freak X has the trademark carousel minute hand, but features a convenient automatic movement and crown, eliminating the need to wind the watch every f...

Hands-On: The New Awake Sơn Mài Collection Makes Métiers d’Art Accessible To All Fratello
Nov 1, 2024

Hands-On: The New Awake Sơn Mài Collection Makes Métiers d’Art Accessible To All

Last month, I met Lilian Thibault, the founder of Awake Watches, at an event in London. We’re used to the brand’s sporty, frequently space-themed limited editions. However, I saw an upcoming release that was very different. The new Sơn Mài collection brings two forms of Métiers d’Art together in an affordable package. Since its launch […] Visit Hands-On: The New Awake Sơn Mài Collection Makes Métiers d’Art Accessible To All to read the full article.

Swatch Shifts Perspectives And Introduces The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase Fratello
Swatch Oct 30, 2024

Swatch Shifts Perspectives And Introduces The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase

The next chapter in the MoonSwatch collection shifts perspectives and brings something new to the table. Is it enough to get you excited? Swatch has just announced a new model within the highly successful MoonSwatch collection. Yes, it’s yet another one, and yes, the line is highly successful. Even though the days of never-ending queues […] Visit Swatch Shifts Perspectives And Introduces The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase to read the full article.

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: Why the Atomic Clock Was Invented Worn & Wound
Oct 29, 2024

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: Why the Atomic Clock Was Invented

Editor’s Note: Today, we bring you the third installment in Andrew Canter’s series, The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. Today, Andrew examines the history of atomic timekeeping, from its earliest conception, to its potential future. Atomic timekeeping and atomic clocks are often misunderstood, but they form a framework for modern timekeeping standards that is, ultimately, indispensable.  You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. “A more universal unit of time might be found by taking the periodic time of vibration of the particular kind of light whose wavelength is the unit of length.” James Clerk Maxwell, Scottish Physicist from his Treatise on Electricity and Magnetism dated 1873 Cover page of James C. Maxwell’s A Treatise on Electricity and Magnetism, published in 1873. It was way back in 1900 that the German physicist Max Planck suggested that the energy of an atomic oscillator is quantised. Albert Einstein extended this concept in 1905, explaining that electromagnetic radiation is localised in packets, later referred to as photons, of frequency and energy. This was the beginning of the journey that led to the invention of the Atomic Clock. How does an Atomic Clock Work An atomic clock is a type of clock that uses certain resonance frequencies of atoms to keep time with extreme accuracy. The electronic components of atomic clocks are regulated by the frequency of microwave electromagnetic radiation. Only when t...

Introducing – Glashütte Original Introduces the All-New PanoLunarInverse Monochrome
Glashütte Original Introduces Oct 23, 2024

Introducing – Glashütte Original Introduces the All-New PanoLunarInverse

Most of our readers might now be familiar with two emblematic watches from Glashütte Original, the PanoInverse and PanoMaticInverse. Both watches, hand-wound for the first and automatic for the latter, with inverted movements showing everything technical right on their dials. The PanoMaticInverse has been around a decade now and has continuously been refreshed with new […]

First Look – The New Khaki Green Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture First Oct 22, 2024

First Look – The New Khaki Green Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture

First introduced over a decade ago, the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture has since become a popular timepiece in Frederique Constant‘s catalogue. Over the years, the watch, capable of displaying time across the 24 standard time zones, has been offered in various dial colours, including blue, grey, rich green and brown. Yet, it has consistently stayed true […]

REVIEW: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve WatchAdvice
Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Oct 16, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve

From the Arctic to the Everyday: The New Terra Nova Evolution What We Love: The new look for the Terra Nova is suited for everyday wear. The blue gradient dial is stunning in person. Polished finishing on the case and bezel gives the watch a luxury look. What We Don’t: The constant seconds counter is oversized for dial. Movement and power reserve can be better to suit modern standards. Minute track can be slimmed down so dial appears less busy. Final Score: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.0/10 Build Quality: 8.0/10 During Watches and Wonders earlier this year, Bremont released numerous timepieces for its Terra Nova collection, with various colour schemes and strap options. This Terra Nova collection can be seen as the brand’s redirection, as in early 2023, the company announced a change of leadership with Davide Cerrato taking over the reins. But let’s take a step back and look at what Bremont was as a watch brand before this new, modern direction took over. As a watchmaker, Bremont has a relatively short history compared to some of the other luxury watch manufacturers; however, in this short span of time, they have already created some memorable timepieces. The story in which the brand was found is also quite the tale! Bremont Founders Nick and Giles English. Image Reference: Bremont.com Bremont was founded in 2002 by British brothers Nick and Giles English. The brothers were drawn to watchmaking and to ultimately created a watch brand t...