21,876 articles · 235 videos found · page 35 of 738
Monochrome
Oris has long defined itself as a maker of mechanical watches for “today’s world citizens”, with a clear commitment to function, value, robust engineering, supported by original looks. The new Big Crown Calibre 113 extends that philosophy by combining the brand’s historic pilot’s watch design with one of its most advanced hand-wound movements. Initially introduced […]
Worn & Wound
Since 2022, you could be forgiven for thinking of Atelier Wen as “the Perception company.” The brand didn’t start with their popular integrated bracelet sports watch, but as the demand for these types of watches grew, Atelier Wen has done their best to keep the Perception at the forefront of the conversation. They’ve done this through small runs of new dial colors and limited editions with various partners that allow them to play not just with color but the guilloche work that is the Perception’s calling card. But it was never Atelier Wen’s goal to make the Perception their own version of the Royal Oak, a watch that completely defines the brand to the point that other collections are barely playing second fiddle. The conceit of the brand has always been to celebrate traditional craft techniques through the lens of Chinese culture. Look at their first release, the porcelain dialed Odyssey, alongside the Perception and you begin to see the brand’s vision more clearly. Now, a new collection has been unveiled, that will hopefully continue to broaden the brand’s appeal. The Ancestra is a rather ambitious dress watch that’s quite complex in its design, but in a somewhat under the radar way. The centerpiece of the watch is the 925 silver dial which incorporates two traditional artistic crafts: hand hammering and grand feu enamel. The dial is produced by Kong Lingjun, a master Chinese enameler. After the dial is hammered, Lingjun gets to work on the enamel pr...
Teddy Baldassarre
Watch movements, like the engines in cars, are the mechanisms that make the whole thing run, and if you're new to the world of avid watch enthusiasm, there's more to learn about them, and how they work, than you think. In this comprehensive guide to watch movements, we will attempt to answer every question that you might have about movements - their different types, their important parts, who makes them, and even a bit of history and trivia. What is a Mechanical Movement? A mechanical movement, the oldest type of movement in horology, uses a coiled metal spring, called a mainspring, that releases energy as it uncoils through a series of gears to drive a weighted, oscillating wheel called a balance wheel. The balance wheel’s oscillations are linked to an escapement, which periodically releases the gear train to move the hands forward to record the passing of hours, minutes, and seconds. Originally, the mainspring needed to be wound periodically by hand, first by a key, then by a winding crown attached via a stem to the movement. Later, a type of movement was developed that could be wound “automatically,” through the motions of the wearer’s wrist. What is the difference between a mechanical movement and an automatic movement? It isn’t really a question of difference: the latter is simply a specific type of the former, à la a Cognac and a brandy. The two main types of mechanical movements are manually wound (or “hand-winding”), in which the user needs to p...
Worn & Wound
This year, it’s all about the Pointer Date for Oris. New for Watches & Wonders 2025, Oris has unveiled a selection of new references featuring what many would consider the brand’s iconic complication. According to Oris, some version of a watch with a pointer date complication has been in production for nearly 90 years, which is quite a significant chunk of time in the watch landscape. The pointer date currently finds its home in the Big Crown Pointer Date collection, part of the brand’s lineup of watches with an aviation influence. The oversized crown, of course, was meant to be usable by pilots wearing gloves in the cockpit, and everything about the dial, including the red tipped pointer date hand, has been designed with easy legibility in mind. The new pointer date watches in the collection stay pretty close to this tradition, but add new dial colors that are a bit less sober than what we typically think of when it comes to aviation inspired watch designs. First up, new versions of the Sellita powered Big Brown Pointer Date in a trio of vibrant colors: yellow, blue, and lilac. These watches are available in the traditional 40mm stainless steel case most often used for the Big Crown Pointer Date. They’re also available for the first time with a stainless steel, H-link bracelet with alternating brushed and polished finishing and a folding clasp. I think the addition of a bracelet changes up the look of these watches in a pretty major way, making them immediately ...
Worn & Wound
In recent days, much of the watch internet has been abuzz with the apparent news of a new Rolex collection with the somewhat hard to believe name of Land-Dweller. Leaked images of the Crown’s new watch began to emerge in the days leading up to this year’s Watches & Wonders, and, as you’d expect from the internet, debate ensued. The shots purported to capture a Datejust-adjacent design with sharper lines and, perhaps, an integrated bracelet. The official Rolex teaser for Watches & Wonders on Instagram seemed to confirm many of the details that had already been guessed, and then a very Daniel Craig at the Olympics style image of Roger Federer wearing the watch hit social media via the tennis star’s (and Rolex ambassador’s) Instagram account. It appeared to everyone at this point that the Land-Dweller was real – we only had to wait for the details. Rolex has made those details public as of today, with the announcement of the new Land-Dweller collection. This is much more, though, than Rolex jumping on the integrated bracelet sports watch bandwagon (although, it is that, at least a little bit). The Land-Dweller is also an important moment for Rolex as a movement maker, as it introduces their new, patented, direct impulse escapament which goes by the trade name Dynapulse. It uses dual silicon wheels and introduces us to Rolex caliber 7135. More on that caliber in a moment, but first, the broad strokes of the Land-Dweller collection. The new collection features a f...
Video
At the time of recording, the exchange rate was 1 GBP = 1.33 USD. Please note that exchange rates fluctuate, so the conversion may differ when you view this video. Always check current exchange rates for the most accu...
Fratello
Wearing a Rolex signals different things. The most obvious ones are success and money. Conformity is another one. Wearing a watch from The Crown is like saying, “I made it, and I want everybody to know it.” I’m sorry, Rolex fans who admire the brand for its technical innovations, achievements, et cetera. For most, the […] Visit Wear A Rolex If You Want To Be Different - A Rolex Perpetual 1908 Dress Watch, That Is to read the full article.
Fratello
Two years ago, when Rolex acquired Bucherer, a multi-brand retail store with over 100 locations, it also included the jeweler’s watch brand Carl F. Bucherer. So, as of 2023, the Rolex crown was protected by the Tudor shield and a second brand with a history that dates back to 1888. You would think that a […] Visit Rolex Shuts Down Watch Brand Carl F. Bucherer, And That’s Hardly A Surprise to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
The crown is one of the most important yet underappreciated parts of a watch. The humble crown has played an extensive role in helping Rolex – and the rest of the watch industry – get to where it is today. Here's why.
Fratello
Let me put it this way: if you want a crown on the dial, looking at a shield instead doesn’t cut it. Luckily, the “Age of Alternatives” seems to have ended. Yes, some references still play hard to get, but more and more watches that were in high demand over the last few post-COVID years […] Visit No Alternatives: Why Buying A Watch In Place Of Another Is A Fallacy to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Unlike the niche-like fairs in Geneva, the Hong Kong Clock and Watch Fair (HKCWF) located in the world’s second largest watch exporter after Switzerland, drives the energy to the next level. It focuses not only on watches of all types, from mechanicals to smart, but also on components, fashion, trade and commerce. Marton Radkai reports his impressions of the fair.
Video
Ask any seasoned collector what his or her grail watch was upon first entering the hobby, and chances are the answer will be very different from what it is today. As our knowledge grows and our tastes mature, so too d...
Worn & Wound
The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force is not like other watches. At a glance, it clearly doesn’t look like them, but more importantly, it also works a bit differently too, featuring a first in watchmaking. To be clear, it still tells time with three hands, is operated by a crown, and has all of the movement components one expects to find on a watch, from a mainspring to an escapement. But it hides a very cool secret. Something that sets it apart. Hidden within is a little mechanism that helps it be more accurate. It’s not a complication, per say, as it doesn’t add any functions beyond time-telling, rather, it makes for a better watch. The Gravity Equal Force is one of a small handful of watches that attempts to address a fundamental issue with mechanical timepieces: variations in accuracy across their power reserves due to changing torque. As the power reserve diminishes, the torque, or force, decreases, the amplitude of the escapement falls, and the timekeeping becomes less accurate. Watchmakers have addressed this issue in various ways over the last few hundred years, which are often grouped together and referred to as “constant force” mechanisms. The Gravity Equal Force uses a simple, though uncommon, mechanism compared to typical “constant force” systems such as fuseé, chains, and remontoirs called a Geneva or Maltese cross. This mechanism prevents the watch mainspring from unwinding to the point where the torque and, thus, the accuracy really drop off. Ho...
Fratello
Please, come closer. It’s worth it. When you do, you can find that the movement inside the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium comprises 194 parts and features no fewer than 16 types of manual finishing. This results in a sophisticated and impressive watch that is both complicated and minimalistic; indeed, it is a paradox in […] Visit Hands-On With A Hyper Watch: The Complicated And Minimalistic Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
More than just about any other watchmaker, Japan's Seiko has become known for offering not only multiple styles and complications in its product families, but also several different types of movements - from affordable quartz, to proprietary hybrid Spring Drive, to high-tech solar and radio-controlled, to classically traditional mechanical. However, one Holy Grail combo that has eluded Seiko and its fans until very recently is the rare GMT (aka dual-time) watch powered by a mechanical movement and priced at what most would consider entry-level for a budding collector. Fortunately, the past few years of R&D; have yielded several all-new GMT-equipped, self-winding mechanical movements for the Japanese megabrand, which have found their way into several models in its modern collections. Here’s a guide to familiarize yourself with all the Seiko mechanical GMTs on the market now - and yes, all of them offer the enticing value proposition that has made Seiko a darling of enthusiasts at every level of economic means. SEIKO 5 SPORTS The Seiko 5 Sports series traces its roots all the way back to 1963 and the original Seiko Sportsmatic 5, a groundbreaking timepiece that ushered in the emblematic “five attributes” that define Seiko’s entry-level mechanical collection today. These include automatic movements, date or day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case and bracelet made of durable materials. Stylistically, the w...
Quill & Pad
The crown is one of the most important yet under appreciated parts of a watch. The humble crown has played an extensive role in helping Rolex – and the rest of the watch industry – get to where it is today. Here's why.
Time+Tide
Oris and Marylebone Cricket Club collaborate on a cricket-loving bronze Big Crown Pointer Date.The post Oris’ latest limited edition watch is a love letter to the ‘Home of Cricket’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Is the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph a stronger offering than the automatic? When it comes to powering your watch, there are more options available to us now than ever before. Manually wound, full-ro...
Quill & Pad
One of the best things about Dubai Watch Week are the presentations, debates, and talks in the Horology Forum. These cover a very wide range of topic and are usually 45-minutes long with time for audience questions at the end. Here are five that Ian Skellern particularly enjoyed that will hopefully both entertain and educate, as well as give you an idea of the types of diverse topics covered.
Worn & Wound
For watch collectors and enthusiasts, Tissot is a brand that holds special meaning. Part of the Swatch group, they are a rare brand that offers a little of everything, always at a good price, and always Swiss-made. Vintage, modern, sport, digital, dress, quirky, classic – you name it, they’ve got it. They also span all types of movements, making it very easy to find a watch that suits your taste and budget. While a great way to get into Swiss-made watches, Tissot is a brand that you’ll find yourself going back to over the years. Today, we’re very excited to welcome Tissot to the Windup Watch Shop. For watch collectors and enthusiasts, Tissot is a brand that holds special meaning. Part of the Swatch group, they are a rare brand that offers a little of everything, always at a good price, and always Swiss-made. Vintage, modern, sport, digital, dress, quirky, classic – you name it, they’ve got it. They also span all types of movements, making it very easy to find a watch that suits your taste and budget. While a great way to get into Swiss-made watches, Tissot is a brand that you’ll find yourself going back to over the years. Today, we’re very excited to welcome Tissot to the Windup Watch Shop. The post Tissot Just Hit Our Windup Watch Shop! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
To kick off 2023, Oris officially revealed the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473-a watch showcasing the latest evolution of their in-house Caliber 400.
Revolution
The Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein BR 03-92 MARINE 22 is the dive model of the Grail Watch 4 Trilogy. Housed in a 42 x 42mm matte black ceramic case depth rated to 300m with a bi-colored ceramic bezel and dual guard pieces for the crown, it is the toughest configuration of Bell & […]
Teddy Baldassarre
To a newcomer, deciphering the world of timepieces can be an intimidating endeavor, and identifying the different types of watches presents a particular challenge. What distinguishes, say, a dive watch from a pilot watch, a quartz watch from a mechanical watch, a dual-time watch from a world timer? What are all those subdials and scales on the dial for? Do I need to change the date on my watch, and if so, how often? In this rundown of the various types of watches, we strive to answer the big questions (and/or link to another article that does). Quartz vs. Mechanical vs. Automatic While watches vary widely in their styles, genres, and capabilities, they all fall into one of two major categories based on the type of movement inside them. Generally, with a few notable exceptions that we’ll touch upon, a watch is either “mechanical” or “quartz.” Mechanical watches further subdivide into two basic types: manually wound (or “hand-winding”), in which the user needs to periodically wind the watch via the crown to keep it working; and automatic (or “self-winding”), in which the movement’s mainspring is perpetually wound by an oscillating weight that swings with the natural motions of the wearer’s wrist. On the other hand, a quartz movement (as explained much more thoroughly in this article), replaces the mechanical movement’s traditional mainspring barrel with a small battery whose electrical charge passes via an integrated circuit into an oscillating tuni...
Video
How The Swiss Watch Industry Spent 100 Years Destroying ItselfFor decades, the story has been the same: Japan arrived, unleashed quartz, and destroyed Swiss watchmaking almost overnight. In this video, I'm challenging...
Time+Tide
Responding to the admittedly fair criticism of offering a sports watch with just 30-metre water-resistance , Bulgari created the S line, with a slightly thicker steel case and screw-down crown, upping the water resistance to 100 metres. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered opts for an exercise in supreme subtlety, as the dials adopt the sublime … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered is the watch designer’s favourite version of this modern classic. Here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Created for the 50th anniversary of Cortina Watch, which is also marking the occasion with a special Patek Philippe Calatrava, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary is an elegantly different take on Blancpain’s vintage-inspired dive watch. With a titanium case matched with a bezel and crown in fade-resistant Sedna gold, the Cortina edition dresses up the functional style of the ordinarily no-frills Bathyscaphe. Originally launched in 2013 as the entry-level – and most compact – model in the Fifty Fathoms collection, the Bathyscaphe was previously only available in single materials, making this two-tone version a first. In fact, the Bathyscaphe Cortina the first Blancpain dive watch with a bi-metal case, but it’ll probably not be the last since the combination is appealing. The hands and hour indices are also 18k Sedna gold Initial thoughts The Bathyscaphe is a handsome watch that has good proportions. It doesn’t feel as large as it measures and wears well. And it is especially lightweight in titanium, so it sits easily on the wrist. In its original variants the Bathyscaphe is muted (in either the steel, ceramic, or titanium versions), or expensive and shiny (in Sedna gold). The Cortina edition is a useful variation on the theme that’s still restrained, but with a little bit of shine. The Sedna gold accents work especially well on the watch because of its retro style. They bring to mind vintage dive watches with “gilt” dials. Admit...
Time+Tide
When it comes down to wanting a flieger watch, everything is about the details. Do you want a smaller case? There are plenty of options from a bunch of brands. Left-handed crown? It’s rare, but not unheard of. A historical connection? Even then, there are five brands to choose from. The new Laco PRO Series … ContinuedThe post IN DEPTH: The Laco PRO Series lets you customise your ideal flieger pilot’s watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Founded in 2017, French brand Baltic quickly found success with its affordable, retro watches. The brand is now celebrating its fifth anniversary with a few commemorative editions in the pipeline, the first being the Aquascaphe Dual-Crown “5th Anniversary”, a retro “Super Compressor” style dive watch dressed up in streetwear colours of the 1990s, the decade during which the thirty-something founders of the brand grew up. Initial thoughts A micro-brand that got its start via crowdfunding, Baltic’s growth is a testament to its commercially-sensible products. Its watches are amongst the best propositions when it comes to retro watches. Baltic’s watches are all eminently affordable, with just enough details to give them a tiny bit more appeal than their prices would suggest. By the same token, the Dual-Crown is an appealing watch. Compact and affordable, the Dual-Crown was only available in muted colours to date. In fact, Baltic hasn’t launched a special edition of the model to date (and the brand does a lot of special editions), making the anniversary model unusual. The anniversary model continues where the original Dual-Crown left off, which is colour, or lack thereof. For anyone who liked the original but wanted something more lively, this is it. The anniversary Dual-Crown is only differs from the standard model in subtle ways, perhaps too subtle. As a result it does not have the strongly coherent aesthetic of Baltic’s other watches, which are clearly an...
Time+Tide
For years, Hamilton has held the crown as the field watch king. The simple, time-tested aesthetic of the watches within their Khaki Field collection represents the gold standard of what a field watch should be. Furthermore, Hamilton doesn’t simply rest on its laurels, as they continuously expand the collection, presenting variations on the theme through … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Field collection shows why the brand is still the field watch king appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Is this the most underrated watch in Omega's current lineup? Here, I'm unboxing the Omega Seamaster 300 233.22.41.21.01.001, a watch that blends heritage design with modern performance. While the 300M is often seen as...
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