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Close but no cigar: Why I welcome horological deal breakers Time+Tide
Jun 21, 2023

Close but no cigar: Why I welcome horological deal breakers

At this specific moment in my life, there’s no way I should even think about buying another watch. On the back of a series of interest rates hike and with a looming renovation for our family home, this just isn’t the right time to splash the cash. And yet… The problem with doing this job … ContinuedThe post Close but no cigar: Why I welcome horological deal breakers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport collection brings a subtly sporty touch to the hit lineup Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport collection Jun 21, 2023

New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport collection brings a subtly sporty touch to the hit lineup

New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport collection replaces former “GT” line Collection includes two chronographs and two automatics each presented with silver dials in steel and rose gold cases, and on integrated rubber straps The Sport Auto uses new 41mm case size, with the addition of a central seconds hand the PF Micro-Rotor does not … ContinuedThe post New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport collection brings a subtly sporty touch to the hit lineup appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] Battle of the White GMTs: Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer II 16570 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer Jun 20, 2023

[VIDEO] Battle of the White GMTs: Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer II 16570

There has never been a better time to be in the market for a GMT watch, with no shortage of great options at a wider range of prices than perhaps ever before. There is one watch that’s remained a pillar of the genre over the years, however, and that is the Explorer II reference 16570. It holds up just as well today as it did when it was introduced in the late ‘80s, and remains a favorite among enthusiasts for its sweet spot sizing, and a timeless design that seems to go with everything. But that’s a watch that’s been out of production for decades, so where is the modern incarnation of this ethos? We may have found a perfect candidate in the Grand Seiko SBGE285. Grand Seiko hasn’t exactly been at the center of the scruffy tool watch scene in the same way that 5 digit Rolex references have, but this SBGE285 offers a compelling case for Grand Seiko’s take on the genre with this modern tool-ish GMT. This is a watch that might look a little intimidating by the numbers, but offers a different experience on-wrist. It might not be as svelte as the Explorer II, but there’s plenty to admire here, from the stunning finishing on the hands and dial furniture, to the unorthodox case architecture, which are all executed to Grand Seiko’s high standards. Ultimately, these two watches offer very different experiences that reflect the two brands at their very best. That said, they do converge in a few surprising ways, which Kat and Blake discuss in this inside look at watches...

Hands-On: the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 Jun 20, 2023

Hands-On: the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300

A good friend of mine leans heavily toward the category of pilot watches. He’s not a pilot, but he likes the way pilot watches look, how legible they are, and the rich history that propelled them to occupy an important role in Swiss brands’ catalogs. I lean heavily towards the genre of dive watches, and although I’m not a professional diver, I do occasionally explore the world below the surface. I have been drawn to dive watches because of their inherent robustness and versatility, as well because I have a particular affinity for any large body of water. This means, in other words, that I mostly wear dive watches and that I’m always on the lookout for the next one to add to my collection.  At the risk of bragging a little, I’ve gotten my hands on many Christopher Ward models in the past three years. But for some strange reason, I’ve never looked at a Trident in the metal. This is odd because it is the collection that the British brand is perhaps the most known for. And this might be due to the fact that, over the past few years, Christopher Ward has revamped the Trident collection multiple times, updating the designs, improving upon the case profile and dimensions, and continuously bettering the finish. Or, in Christopher Ward terms, giving us better bangs for our bucks. So today is a special day as I got to spend some time with the 38mm C60 Trident Pro 300.  An Enthusiast Driven Design  We watch enthusiasts are not only enthusiasts about horology but we som...

Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a black sunburst rendition of the Master Control Chronograph Calendar Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre presents Jun 20, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a black sunburst rendition of the Master Control Chronograph Calendar

This Master Control collection was launched in 1992 as a look back at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mid-century creations, but executed in a thoroughly modern way. It contains iconic features like the alarmed Memovox, but also this decidedly classic combination of complications – a chronograph and complete calendar with a moonphase. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar now … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a black sunburst rendition of the Master Control Chronograph Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The MKII Stingray II Keroman is a true military diver, recreated Time+Tide
Jun 19, 2023

The MKII Stingray II Keroman is a true military diver, recreated

We don’t need more dive watches. According to some anecdotal data, divers are the most popular type of watches because they are robust, versatile, and can sometimes be handsome to look at, considering personal preference and all. Don’t get me wrong – I love dive watches – and wear them on a mostly daily basis. … ContinuedThe post The MKII Stingray II Keroman is a true military diver, recreated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Owner’s Perspective: Tudor Black Bay GMT WatchAdvice
Tudor Black Bay GMT Jun 19, 2023

The Owner’s Perspective: Tudor Black Bay GMT

The Tudor Black Bay GMT was a hit when released in 2018 giving people a much more affordable alternative to it’s older and wiser cousin, the Rolex GMT BLRO, otherwise known as “The Pepsi”. And being more attainable and a great value proposition, I decided it was time to add a GMT to the collection. Why I Bought It I had never owned a GMTGreat Rolex alternativeClassic styled GMT & similar to my Black Bay The Ownership Reality Wears larger than a 41mm watch due to it’s 14mm thickness and slab sidesNo micro adjust or extendable links for on the fly adjustment Aluminium bezel insert more prone to scratches than ceramic Overall rating: 8.5 /10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 8/10 A few months ago, Tudor released a new variant of the Tudor Black Bay GMT with a white dial, which you can read about here, but personally, I didn’t love the white dial on this watch. The black dial “Pepsi” configuration, The OG looks better in my opinion, which made me think why, and then made me think – maybe I should write about it in this next Owners Perspective article. The original and the best – Tudor Black Bay GMT Having never owned a GMT, and les face it, over 2020 and 2021, I’ve not needed one as I’ve not really gone anywhere thanks to COVID. But with the world opening up again early last year, and with a few family holidays planned combined with an itch for a new watch, I decided to take the plunge and get a Tudor Black Bay GMT. W...

Bamford Watch Department x Wes Lang present a Limited Edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph BWD collaborates Jun 19, 2023

Bamford Watch Department x Wes Lang present a Limited Edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

BWD collaborates with Wes Lang to bring the artist’s signature flourishes to the iconic Carrera Chronograph Wes Lang is known for his recurring figures and symbols- horses, reapers, skulls, birds, the indigenous American and other post-pop Americana iconography The watch is a harmonious melding of Jack Heuer and Wes Lang’s design codes in a rose … ContinuedThe post Bamford Watch Department x Wes Lang present a Limited Edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Bulova Marine Star models reframe a mish-mash of influences into bombastic new looks Time+Tide
Bulova Marine Star models reframe Jun 18, 2023

The new Bulova Marine Star models reframe a mish-mash of influences into bombastic new looks

Some watches play to a faithful template, while others prefer to try something more imaginative. These new Bulova Marine Star models are definitely in the second category, pulling influences from seemingly every direction and frankly it’s difficult to know what to make of them. All that said, if you’re looking for something with unashamed character … ContinuedThe post The new Bulova Marine Star models reframe a mish-mash of influences into bombastic new looks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How smartwatches could protect soldiers from chemical warfare Time+Tide
Jun 17, 2023

How smartwatches could protect soldiers from chemical warfare

War played a crucial role in the evolution of the wristwatch.  Historians believe the idea of strapping watches to soldier’s wrists was probably conceived during the Boer War, although there are some accounts of Napoleon being frustrated by having to constantly fumble about for his pocket watch during battle. But the real game-changer that made … ContinuedThe post How smartwatches could protect soldiers from chemical warfare appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Marnaut opens a new chapter with a Croatian boutique, Swiss movements and German manufacturing Time+Tide
Jun 17, 2023

Marnaut opens a new chapter with a Croatian boutique, Swiss movements and German manufacturing

A common feature of any independent brand, micro or otherwise, is the brave undertaking of “cutting out the middleman”. Even though this phrase has become overused, and in some cases, rightfully ridiculed, the success of many independent brands lies in online-only availability, which is often one of the main driving forces behind affordable prices. Yet … ContinuedThe post Marnaut opens a new chapter with a Croatian boutique, Swiss movements and German manufacturing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC celebrates 75 years of the Mark series with a silver-dialled Mark XX Time+Tide
IWC celebrates 75 years Jun 17, 2023

IWC celebrates 75 years of the Mark series with a silver-dialled Mark XX

There’s no doubt that IWC is one of the most important players in the pilot’s watch game. Without digging too deep, numerous legendary models have emerged, from the very first Mark 11 issued to the RAF in 1948 to the latest Big Pilot’s Perpetual Calendar. It is that very first Mark-series watch that is being … ContinuedThe post IWC celebrates 75 years of the Mark series with a silver-dialled Mark XX appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Turning 50 with the Grand Seiko SBGE257 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGE257 Three years ago Jun 16, 2023

Turning 50 with the Grand Seiko SBGE257

Three years ago, my significant other turned 50 and for this milestone birthday she absolutely wanted a Tesla automobile. As the wonderful husband I am and knowing my 50th birthday was three years away, I knew this could open the door to a significant watch purchase, so of course, we made it happen. Luckily, we were very fortunate to take possession of her new cherry red car just weeks before the pandemic turned the entire world upside down.  From that day forward, I had to figure out what would make the perfect 50th birthday watch, however, before we get to this process, you have to understand something about me. I call myself a serial monogamist when it comes to watch collecting. I am one of those people that can only have one “good” watch at a time. I cannot seem to have more than one, as there is always a preferred one and that one always gets the wrist time.  As a result, since 1997, I have gone through hundreds of watches, always looking for watch next. My preference is for sport, dive and pilot watches and I have owned, photographed and reviewed some of the very finest in the world. I have done this by frequently trading, or selling and buying, but always with the same pool of watch funds. Oh, I have added a little bit here and there, and I have also gotten lucky a few times and come out favorably on some trades. All that said, it has been years since the wifely unit permitted a large watch purchase.  You see, we have two adult kids in college and despite wha...

Marnaut Returns with their Refined Dark Surge 300 Diver, a Proper Dressy Tool Watch and a New Showroom in an Exotic Locale Worn & Wound
Jun 16, 2023

Marnaut Returns with their Refined Dark Surge 300 Diver, a Proper Dressy Tool Watch and a New Showroom in an Exotic Locale

The last time we caught up Mario Jutronic and his Croatia-designed microbrand, Marnaut, the collection featured a pair of capable divers with a distinct dial inspired by a creature of the Adriatic Sea. Marnaut has been quiet in recent years and after a stint in Asia, Jutronic has returned to his homeland, marking the watch brand’s resurgence. Sometimes a change in scenery is what the soul needs, and you know what they say, there’s nothing better than home cooking. Now, Marnaut is looking to pick up right where they left off with a more refined version of their flagship Dark Surge 300 diver and the launch of their brand new Safe Harbour 100 collection. The newly refined Dark Surge 300 As you’ll find out with all the noteworthy details, all roads lead back to “The Land of a Thousand Islands” in every Marnaut piece. The sea urchin exoskeleton inspired dial, a signature Marnaut design cue and a tribute to Jutronic’s younger days snorkeling in the Adriatic Sea to find these coveted creatures, reprises its format in the updated Dark Surge 300. The dial displays all 47 raised indices in radiating fashion with each one wrapped in a polished surround and filled with C3 SuperLuminova. There’s a certain depth this particular design provides. From above, the space between the top of the surrounds and the surface of its filling is noticeable. A side profile captures the same raised indices in a different manner as they reflect off of the glossy black dial. As a result, le...

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe” SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Jun 16, 2023

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe”

Having made a splash with the release of the Ingenieur back in March, IWC now returns with an addition to its military-inspired aviator’s watch collection with the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe”. While IWC is no stranger to ceramic as a case material, this is the first time the signature IWC perpetual calendar has been combined with white ceramic, certainly one of the brand’s most popular case materials. Initial thoughts Since its 2022 debut, the Colours of Top Gun collection – comprised of pilot’s watches with cases in coloured ceramic other than black – has consistently been a bestseller. The white ceramic chronograph in particular was especially sought after, enough that it sold for above the retail price on the secondary market for a brief period. Therefore, it is no surprise that IWC has now introduced a white ceramic perpetual calendar, adding the popular case material to its trademark complication. Fans of the perpetual calendar will not be disappointed since the dial design sticks to a tried-and-tested formula. The overall aesthetics, however, are striking. The juxtaposition of the matte black dial and white ceramic transforms the often elegant complication into something sportier and cooler. On the other hand, owners of the Top Gun chronograph in white ceramic might be disappointed that the material is no longer unique to that model, but it was practically a given IWC would launch more white ceramic models given the comme...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A belated recap of the Parisian Breguet Type XX/20 event Time+Tide
Breguet Type XX/20 event Hey Jun 16, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A belated recap of the Parisian Breguet Type XX/20 event

Hey folks! Back in the Friday Wind Down saddle. I would have loved to share my experience during the Paris Breguet trip last week, but alas I was in transit to Geneva and could not punch it out in time. But, back in New York City, I wanted to give you a peek into what … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A belated recap of the Parisian Breguet Type XX/20 event appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tissot Introduces the Sideral SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces Jun 15, 2023

Tissot Introduces the Sideral

Fun, affordable, and well-equipped, the Sideral is a surprisingly interesting entry-level sports watch from Tissot. Where many recent sports watches been Genta-inspired with integrated bracelets – Tissot’s own PRX among them – the Sideral reminds us that the 70s were a time of broader experimentation for the Swiss watch industry, in terms of both design and materials. Based on the playful and quirky Sideral S from 1971, the newSideral is not a one-to-one remake of the original. Instead, it’s been smartly updated in both design and functionality. While the original Sideral S featured a fiberglass case, then a world first, the reissue has a more contemporary carbon composite case. With its clever use of lume plus a regatta countdown bezel, the Sideral packs a surprising amount of character for the price. The original Sideral S from 1971 (lower left) next to the new Sideral. Initial thoughts Heritage remakes have become a common trope in the luxury watch industry over the past few years, but brands have mostly focused on bringing back their most timeless and iconic designs from the 1950s and 1960s; the Tudor Black Bay 54 is a perfect example. In this context, the launch of the funky Sideral is a breath of fresh air, since the original design is comparatively obscure and likely unknown to many contemporary enthusiasts.  The dial itself is generously and playfully lumed, with four different colours of Super-LumiNova across the collection to bring it to life in the dark...

Breitling Introduces the Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary” SJX Watches
Richard Mille Jun 14, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary”

Breitling is introducing a luxe variation of its flagship chronograph to mark the tenth year of S&S; Group, a luxury retailer that represents brands ranging from Rolls Royce to Richard Mille in Vietnam. The Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary” Limited Edition is making its debut just in time for the opening of the Breitling boutique in the Vietnamese capital, Hanoi. Initial thoughts Highlighting its focus on Southeast Asia, it comes as no surprise that Breitling has unveiled another edition of its trademark chronograph, following the Singapore Airlines edition from last year. But instead of a mere change of colour as it usually does, Breitling has employed mother-of-pearl for the dial, an unusual material for the brand but one that adds a touch of extravagance to an otherwise functional pilot’s watch.  The mother-of-pearl dial instantly sets this apart from the standard Navitimer, particularly with the red gold case. Perhaps the only thing missing is the retailer’s logo on the dial, a detail that would hark back to the double-signed dials that are desirable in vintage watches.  Priced at US$21,800, the S&S; Navitimer is slightly more expensive than the standard production model in rose gold that has a plain, cream dial. This increase can primarily be attributed to the mother-of-pearl dial and seems fairly proportional for the upgrade in dial material. Tenth anniversary This Navitimer edition celebrates the tenth year of S&S; Group, which was founded in 2013 as the s...

The Seiko 5 Sports Collection Comes Full Circle with a Faithful Recreation of the 1968 Original and Three Additional Models that Hit the Remix Button Worn & Wound
Seiko 5 Sports Collection Comes Jun 13, 2023

The Seiko 5 Sports Collection Comes Full Circle with a Faithful Recreation of the 1968 Original and Three Additional Models that Hit the Remix Button

The Seiko 5 Sports collection has made quite the impressive and industry-impacting run in its 55 years of existence. Within that time, we’ve seen a constant evolution of the collection with countless iterations of the Seiko 5 Sports watch. There has been a slew of limited edition pieces and special collaborations that displays the brand’s willingness to do something fun and different. There have been many “firsts” for the collection, as well as many returns to form. But no matter how much the collection has ebbed and flowed, the Seiko 5 Sports watch has a knack for finding its way into all of our collections. Whether you’re a veteran in the horology game or a rookie just getting started, a common thread will always be a Seiko 5. The collection continues to open many doors into the hobby, and for some, has kept them right in the thick of it with easy-going designs and models packed with tons of value. Today however, isn’t about the journey, but about where it all began in 1968 with the first ever Seiko 5 Sports watch. With this nostalgic release from Seiko, we get a faithful recreation of the OG diver built on the five pillar foundation from which the Seiko 5 gets its name – a sports watch containing an automatic movement, day-date display, water resistance, durable case and a recessed crown at four o’clock. The limited edition Seiko SRPK17 retains its 39.5mm steel cushion case with its distinguishable scalloped edge shaping the top and bottom. With a front-...

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts Jun 13, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9

Grand Seiko is well-known for a wide array of dial expressions, faceted case geometries, handsome Zaratsu finishing, and, of course, their proprietary Spring Drive system. But as one of few truly vertically integrated manufactures, Grand Seiko does have one glaring gap in their catalogue: complications. Yes, Grand Seiko has previously presented GMT watches and even … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Oris Goes Big with their New Aquis Worn & Wound
Oris Goes Big Jun 13, 2023

Oris Goes Big with their New Aquis

Oris is once again expanding their Aquis collection, this time debuting a reference with a small seconds indicator in a case with a larger footprint, the Aquis Small Second Date 45.5mm. The Aquis is one of the Swiss brand’s signature creations, and as such Oris has endeavored to make it available, and palatable, to a huge range of potential customers, with cases ranging from 36.5mm all the way up to 45.8mm for the Aquis Depth Gauge. Over the last few release cycles, we’ve seen Oris put a focus on the smaller and medium sized watches, but here we get a big one, with a case measuring 45.5mm, a brand new size for the diver, and featuring the increasingly rare small seconds indicator at 9:00.  When we think about dive watches, normally we consider them along the metric of water resistance and legibility, but there’s another core component of any diver that is less discussed and often taken for granted, and that’s being able to immediately determine if the watch is running. Needless to say, a dive watch that has stopped running doesn’t do you very much good at all, and could potentially be quite dangerous for a diver relying on their watch to time surface intervals or bottom time. If you picture a dive watch in your mind’s eye, you’re likely to think of one with a centrally mounted seconds hand, which makes it easy to see at a glance whether or not a watch is functioning at its most basic level. But for timing purposes, getting a readout to the second isn’t of ...

3 criminally undervalued watches to chase on the secondary market before buyers wake up Time+Tide
Jun 13, 2023

3 criminally undervalued watches to chase on the secondary market before buyers wake up

I am totally going to regret this. Right now, I am giving you a window into my horological browser history. Watches I personally favourite on Chrono24 and eBay, bookmarking them for later when the time to strike is right. I am not insinuating that the below three watches are inexpensive. They are absolutely not. But … ContinuedThe post 3 criminally undervalued watches to chase on the secondary market before buyers wake up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 Sports retro colour collection Time+Tide
Seiko 5 Sports retro colour Jun 13, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 Sports retro colour collection

With its incredibly expansive catalogue of references and huge production numbers, the original Seiko 5 collection still feels like a pillar of the watchmaking landscape. Despite a complete refresh of the series, discontinuing all existing models in 2019 and starting from scratch, the remaining stock usually still offers fantastic value and cool designs. For that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 Sports retro colour collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Porsche Design Releases a New Chronograph 1 Paying Tribute to 75 Years of Porsche Worn & Wound
Porsche Design Releases Jun 12, 2023

Porsche Design Releases a New Chronograph 1 Paying Tribute to 75 Years of Porsche

Sometimes, weird things happen on the watch release calendar that result in an almost mystical kind of synergy. We didn’t plan today as “racing inspired chronograph day,” but the surprise release of a new Rolex Daytona paying tribute to the 100th anniversary of Le Mans and an equally surprising new Seiko chronograph with more than a little racing and competitive timing heritage means that today is all about the many flavors of tracking elapsed time. Rounding out a trilogy of new chronographs today, we have news of the latest limited edition from Porsche Design, a special variant of the Chronograph 1 celebrating 75 years of Porsche.  As car enthusiasts are likely well aware, this year marks the 75th anniversary of the first Porsche, the 356 No. 1 roadster. In the decades since, Porsche has become not just one of the most important carmakers in the world, but one of the most recognizable brands of any type. Porsche vehicles are known all over the world, and their iconic silhouettes and designs can be easily recognized even by people who don’t count themselves as car aficionados. The new watch, according to Porsche Design, is a tribute to the culture and legacy Porsche has built.  The Chronograph 1 75 Years of Porsche Edition is very similar to the 1972 Limited Edition variant of the watch released last year, and discussed by Blake here. The differences are honestly so minute, they might only be appreciated by the most rabid Porsche Design collectors, but this is a ...