23,491 articles · 238 videos found · page 352 of 791
Deployant
Parmigiani Fleurier Pershing Tourbillon One of the watches which caught my jaded eyes last year (2011) was the Parmigiani Fleurier Pershing Tourbillon with open work dial. Beautifully finished, fully in-house production (movement, dial, case, finishing all done within the company) Parmigiani is an amazing company. Started by watchmaking genius Michel Parmigiani some 30 years agoRead More
Deployant
Vacheron Constantin is one of the three Grande Dames of watchmaking…the othe two being Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Interestingly, it is currently the only one which is within a large group, in this case Groupe Richemont, which count amongst the members of its stable luminaries like A. Lange & Sohne, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Cartier,Read More
Deployant
The MB&F;’s latest creation the Horological Machine No. 4 is an imposing watch…quite large, though it sits well on the wrist. MB&F; HM4 Thunderbolt Made from titanium and sapphire crystal, the watch is a rather interesting piece of sculpture…reminiscent of a rocket ship or a jet engine. Two engine like scuptures, I guess that isRead More
Worn & Wound
Bernhardt’s Captain collection is a new range of dress watches that I think loosely falls in the Calatrave-esque trend that has been emerging, most notably through a variety of Japanese indies and micros, over the last few years. As interest in chunky divers and sports watches appears to wane a bit, enthusiasts are (finally) willing to look at watches in other genres, and brands are delivering with a variety of takes on the dress watch format. This is a fundamentally good thing for the community, but it’s not easy to make a dress watch. It is, conversely, very easy to attempt to make a dress watch and actually make a regular old daily driver, the type of watch that most people who had any desire to wear any watch at all would have owned in the middle part of the 20th century. $749 Hands-On: the Bernhardt Captain Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9039 Dial Silver Lume None Lens Sapphire Strap leather Water Resistance 50 Dimensions 38 x 45mm Thickness 9.55mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/pull Warranty yes Price $749 A dress watch, to me, is a very specific thing. If it’s mechanical, it’s manually wound. It’s more likely to not have a seconds hand, and indices and other markings should be minimal. It obviously should be quite thin and relatively small in size, and if I were really being a snob about it, I’d insist it should be in a precious metal, but I’m not a snob and that’s ridiculous. It does speak, though, to the idea that when you use the word “d...
Fratello
Grøne introduces the Horologium, a new manual-winding timepiece available in two different versions, “Something Quirky” and “Something Classic.” Both watches come in a 39mm stainless steel case and feature small seconds, a Swiss-made manual-winding movement by La Joux-Perret, a 60-hour power reserve, and 5 ATM of water resistance. Limited to 188 pieces per version, the […] Visit Play It Classic, Or Make It Loud: Unpacking the Grøne Horologium’s Dual Identity to read the full article.
Monochrome
Twelve on Time is a conversation series that invites leading personalities from the watch industry to step beyond their work and speak more personally about their relationship with time, creativity, and craft. Through a set of twelve questions, the column aims to lift the veil on both the individual and their perspective on watchmaking, revealing […]
Fratello
Fast-track evolution. In just one year, Casio launched its first automatic mechanical watch, the Edifice EFK-100, and rapidly improved it. Now, the third generation of the Casio Edifice automatic is here. The EFK-200, a sporty-chic yet affordable watch with an integrated bracelet/strap, comes in five variations and looks to be a very mature watch. There […] Visit They Grow Up So Fast! Meet The Casio Edifice Automatic EFK-200 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Greubel Forsey (GF) Balancier 3 topped our summer watch wish list thanks to its uncompromising craftsmanship and ergonomic form factor. Though not an altogether new watch — the model debuted in 2023 — the “baby blue” edition updates the formula with a dimpled finish on the prominent Y-shaped bridge that spans the dial. Initial thoughts Greubel Forsey is one of the few artisanal independent brands that has managed to create a distinctive and compelling sports watch. While the style of the Balancier 3 might be an acquired taste for some — especially those who prefer more of a dial — the quality of make is obvious and the finishing is almost clinical in its perfection. This helps justify the steep cost of entry, even for an ‘entry level’ model like the Balancier 3. The Convexe line grew significantly during former CEO Antonio Calce’s tenure, from late 2020 to early 2024, as the brand prepared to scale. Fortunately, the brand pulled the plug on its growth plan and has subsequently reverted to a more balanced line-up, no pun intended. Beyond the blue colour, the primary element that distinguishes this edition is the dimpled finish of the titanium bridge that supports the hand stack. More than just a finish applied for its own sake, the matte treatment helps break up the monotony of mirror-polished elements on the “dial” and provides enhanced contrast with its own mirror-polished bevels. To achieve this look on titanium, the GF developed a new technique...
Monochrome
Since its revival in 2017, the Rado Captain Cook collection has grown from a faithful vintage re-edition into one of the brand’s pillars, embracing models to include compact 37mm models, ceramic executions, bronze editions and high-tech divers. Now Rado introduces another themed interpretation, created to celebrate its new role as Official Timing Partner of European […]
Fratello
There’s nothing wrong with a good stone dial. Even though they’ve been a thing for the past 2-3 years, I never get bored with seeing one. Granted, I do need to like the watch it’s in, and it also needs to fit the style. With the Maen Manhattan, the former is definitely not an issue. […] Visit Rocking A New Look: The Maen Manhattan Stone Dial Series to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe’s headline launches this year included the surprising Celestial ref. 6105G and Nautilus 50th anniversary editions, but also more classical, yet under-the-radar, watches, like the Calatrava ref. 5227G-015 with a “rose-gilt” dial and hinged case back. Though the Calatrava ref. 5227 with its distinctive “officer’s case” has been in the catalogue for well over a decade, the latest iteration is the best yet. The combination is somewhat formulaic – “salmon” dial and white gold case – but it is good looking and evocative of old-school Patek Philippe dress watches. At the same time, this new variant of the ref. 5227 contains a latest-generation automatic movement. Initial thoughts Ironically two of the standout launches by Patek Philippe during Watches & Wonders were fairly basic, essentially facelifts of references that have been in the catalogue for decades. One was the ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar, and the other is this, the Calatrava ref. 5227G-015. Though both are entirely different in function and price, they are similar in style. The designs are both restrained and evocative of vintage Patek Philippe watches; both also have dials in popular shades. “Salmon” is definitely overdone as a dial colour, but it doesn’t stop this Calatrava from being really appealing. The ref. 5227 is typical Patek Philippe in form. Even though it’s at the larger end of the range for Calatrava models, it still feels elegant. The case is thin and sits fla...
Worn & Wound
Arcanaut, the Scandinavian indie known for their innovation with and unusual use of uncommon dial materials, has announced a major update to their signature watch. The Arc II Fordite, a personal favorite of mine and a watch I’ve proudly owned for a number of years, has been rethought as a bespoke piece, customized by each individual owner in a number of ways. Some of the options available feel like natural evolutions for the line based on a number of things we’ve seen from the brand in recent years across other projects, but a few are genuinely surprising. When purchasing an Arc II Fordite from Arcanaut directly, the customer is brought to their Fordite Configurator, which first asks for their choice in dial. This, of course, is the heart of a Fordite watch as every dial is inherently unique (they are made from paint drippings from American auto factories). Prospective owners have always been able to choose their dial of course, but the watches have been sold as finished products. The new process centers the dials and the surprising ways they vary in appearance, and asks customers to think about how best to complement it. The most welcome new development in the new Fordite process is the ability to pick from multiple cases. A total of four options are available, in “Standard” and “Skeleton” varieties, coming in at 40.5mm (the original size) or a new 37mm diameter. A smaller size should be exciting news to many as the 40.5mm case can wear quite a bit larger ...
![Inside The Manufacture: Making A Tudor: A Behind-The-Scenes Look, From Raw Material To Finished Product [Video]](https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/b4180ce2-b600-4ab3-9a26-546220f695bb/3.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&w=2000)
Hodinkee
Earlier this year, Tudor invited a small group of watch media into its Swiss manufacturing network to see what "Swiss Made" actually means in practice—not a one-stop visit in a single day, but the full process from start to finish over multiple days. I've been on plenty of manufacturer tours, and I've never had access like this. The result is one video, broken into three parts: cases and bracelets; hand-painted and hand-lumed dials; movements and assembly. Case and Bracelet We start by looking at cases and bracelets. I've had my Tudor Pelagos 39 on my wrist for a couple of years now, and until recently I'd never given much thought to what "Swiss Made" on the dial actually meant, beyond the concept and branding tied to those two words. So, using my own Pelagos as the starting point, this segment traces how a titanium dive watch's case and bracelet are actually made, moving through three Swiss companies closely linked to Tudor: Joseph Baume, Orolux, and Detech. Titanium case blanks are the start of the story. The progressive evolution of Tudor cases at Joseph Baume. Heat treating in a special furnace. The case begins at Joseph Baume, an independent forge where steel components are cold-stamped through up to fifteen strikes, while titanium cases, like that employed by my Pelagos, undergo hot stamping instead, heated to nearly 950 degrees Celsius and pressed into shape by a robotic arm. It's a more physical, almost blacksmith-like process than I ever would have expecte...
Fratello
The man who brought the Louis Moinet watch brand to life sadly died very recently. Jean-Marie Schaller, the owner and creative force behind Louis Moinet, passed away peacefully on May 16th at the age of 66. The watch industry lost one of its brightest characters, but the brand continues, and it does so in its […] Visit Uncorking the Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph Champagne: A Hands-On Experience to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Ahead of Geneva Watch Days — which will feature 71 brands, many of them independent — episode 49 of the SJX Podcast looks back at how independent watchmaking became the phenomenon it is today. SJX and Brandon trace its evolution from 1970s pioneers like George Daniels and François-Paul Journe through the arrival of Daniel Roth, Philippe Dufour, and Franck Muller. The conversation also examines the avant-garde boom of the 2000s, the renewed emphasis on traditional finishing, and the role of digital photography and social media in transforming a solitary pursuit into a global collecting community. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
WatchAdvice
I take the new TAG Heuer Monaco Chronographs in blue and green for a hands-on review to see how this watchmaking icon has evolved for a new generation! What We Love: Improved ergonomics for slimmer wrists Distinctive dial colours with different personalities Substantially upgraded TH20-11 movement What We Don’t: Limited strap options Square case still wears large 13.9mm thickness remains noticeable Overall Rating: 8.7/10 Value for Money: 8.8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.7/10 Build Quality: 8.7/10 Few watches in the world of horology are as instantly recognisable as the TAG Heuer Monaco. Even more than five decades after its introduction, the iconic timepiece’s square silhouette remains one of its most distinctive features. If you aren’t familiar with the story of the Monaco, it was first introduced in 1969—and it has quite the story behind it. The Monaco arrived during one of watchmaking’s most defining technical contests: the development of the first automatic chronograph. The birth of the Monaco was closely linked to the Calibre 11 movement, which was developed through a collaborative effort between Heuer, Breitling, Hamilton-Büren and chronograph specialist Dubois-Dépraz. The Calibre 11 was essentially part of a movement “race” against Zenith’s El Primero Calibre 3019 PHC and Seiko’s Calibre 6139. The new generation of TAG Heuer Monaco Chronographs presented in blue and green dials. Jack Heuer, who was one of the driving forces behind the Cal...
Worn & Wound
Analog and digital timepieces used to wage war on the wrists of horological enthusiasts. Nowadays, though, they’re more of a united front against the tide of smart watches and phones, offering wildly differing price points, use cases, and aesthetics. No longer is a digital calculator watch seen as “nerdy”, as celebrities and public figures like New York mayor Zohran Mamdani are frequently seen rocking the classic Casio silhouette. And despite their seemingly anachronistic focus on tactile functionality and focus, analog watches have never been more popular with young people looking to escape the crushing presence of their digital lives. That’s where the analog-digital (“ana-digi”) format comes in. A clever combination of the best features of both types of “old school” timekeeping, new iterations like the Autodromo Group C Turbo Sport are priced compellingly, and cast a wide net despite sometimes venturing outside of most design conventions. They can be a great introduction to the larger world of watches, and unique conversation pieces in their own right. So, let’s dive in and take a look at some notable ana-digi watches from watchmakers you already know and love, and what sets them apart from their more traditional stablemates. G-SHOCK Starting with the undisputed king of digital watches, Casio’s G-SHOCK sub-brand has a frankly staggering amount of ana-digi options on hand. Their aptly-named Analog-Digital collection boasts over 100 models currently a...
Hodinkee
What We Know It's been two years since Unimatic announced their "Toolwatch" collection, and it's possible that you may have forgotten about it. Like all Unimatics, the watches have a strict design language that can make releases blend together. Small tweaks, like today's release of the UT1-PD (Prodiver, in their terms), might look like something you thought existed before, but this is very much a new watch. So what makes the Toolwatch line, and what makes this limited release of 250 pieces different? The UT1-PD has a sandblasted stainless steel case with a 40mm diameter (41.5mm including bezel overhang), 13.6mm thickness (13.3mm without the crystal), and a 49mm lug-to-lug. This is designed as a strict dive watch, meeting all your needs, with a unidirectional 120-click rotating bezel, 300m water resistance, a screw-down crown, and a reliable Seiko VH31A quartz movement. Yes, we love mechanical watches, but quartz does the trick for many needs. The matte dial has white printing with round, triangular, and rectangular hour markers (unlike the previous version, which had Arabic hour markers), and the watch features Super-LumiNova C1 on the hour markers, hour and minute hands, and bezel pip. There are also drilled lug holes, and the watch comes with a black TPU two-piece strap. But the core of Unimatic's Toolwatch line is that the watches meet the U.S. Department of Defense MIL-STD-810H specs, which outline a range of environmental tests to evaluate the durability, ruggedness...
Monochrome
Some, from day-1, know what their favourite version of the all-time iconic Omega Speedmaster is. Whether it is the classic Moonwatch, a modern automatic version, a retro-inspired straight lugs or even a specific vintage model, their search was a short journey. It was not the case for me. I have always loved and respected the […]
Monochrome
Twelve on Time is a conversation series that invites leading personalities from the watch industry to step beyond their work and speak more personally about their relationship with time, creativity, and craft. Through a set of twelve questions, the column aims to lift the veil on both the individual and their perspective on watchmaking, revealing […]
Worn & Wound
What started as a fashion watch brand a decade ago is making a leap into more traditional watchmaking territory. Laps has introduced its first mechanical model, the Arche as part of a new Studio Series. The collection consists of four iterations, two with simple textured dials and two that take on one of classic watchmaking’s key artforms: enamel. The dial is arguably the main focus of nearly all watches. It conveys the most pertinent information and serves as the aesthetic centerpiece. When French designer and art collector Antonin Mercie created Laps in 2016, he took the emphasis on the dial a step further – this would not just be the core focus of the watches but the core focus of the brand. Examples of watches from the Laps “Signature” collection The base of the original Editions models varies slightly but overall carries a vintage aesthetic hailing from the funky eras of 70s and 80s watchmaking. Both the Prima and the Signature cases are rectangular, with the former being slightly smaller and squarer at 28mm by 23mm and the latter slightly larger and more rectangular at 35mm by 26mm. Each is topped off with the option of a leather strap or bracelet whose design is aligned with the retro theme, mimicking a stretch bracelet in texture but presented in a traditional manner with a buckle closure. Powering the models in the Editions series are straightforward, time-only quartz movements. All of this lays the foundation for the star of the show – the dials – whi...
Hodinkee
You could easily argue that Ming is a materials and manufacturing incubator masquerading as a watch company. Lume that glows white. The lightest ever mechanical watch. The world's first 3D-printed titanium bracelet-strap hybrid. All of these are associated with pretty incredible products, but, to some extent, I think it's fair to say the watches themselves are vehicles for showcasing cool innovation. That's not to say the watches are anything but great. But on occasion they're solutions looking for a problem. I kind of love the brand for it. That kind of innovation also extends to dial making, where Ming has recently released two really interesting dial-making exercises in their collaboration with J.N. Shapiro for the 37.06 "Lightning" and standalone 29.06 "Peepshow." I recently had the chance to go hands-on with a few novelties from Ming. The brand, of course, had a great coup when the 37.09 "Bluefin" beat Tudor and a few others for the best sports watch at GPHG in 2024. They followed up with the 37.09 Uni, which I would say is their most practical release of late. The 56.00 "Starfield" is pretty wild but not to my taste, so I gravitated toward covering the two more dial-focused releases of this year (and their LW01 lightweight watch, which will get a future story on its own). It seemed fitting to start with the Ming x J.N. Shapiro 37.06 "Lightning," since I was actually photographing Shapiro's most recent release the same day. And boy, is the watch stunning in person. Th...
Deployant
Panerai brings their carbotech case technology to the classical 1960s visual code signature of the tritium filled markers of the Luminor Marina.
WristBuzz
Eight thousand pieces. One very specific shade of yellow. Seiko and Honda celebrate the Motocompo's 45th anniversary with a watch that's hard to ignore.
Monochrome
Singer Reimagined releases the Heritage V72, a handsome chronograph powered by a restored new-old-stock Valjoux 72 movement. Beyond an exercise in restoration, Singer pays tribute to the calibre’s iconic architecture, revealing its hidden attributes through elevated finishings that far surpass those of the original movement. Presented in a compact 38.8mm case with a glassbox caseback, […]
Fratello
Last year, Singer Reimagined surprised us with the Heritage Chronograph Collection with a restored and rebuilt Valjoux 236 movement. This model debuted in both green and black dial colorways, and a very limited run of 10 pieces with a “Terracotta” dial was then shown at Dubai Watch Week. Now, Singer Reimagined unveils its next Heritage […] Visit Hot Take: The Singer Reimagined Heritage V72 Now With A Midas Touch to read the full article.
Fratello
Last year, I had the honor of testing the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty in bi-color prior to its release. It’s a tricky thing to walk around with a watch that isn’t out yet, but luckily, I live in a small village where the risk of it being spotted is rather low. Back then, I was […] Visit The Perfect Laureato? Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty With A Rose-Gold Dial to read the full article.
Fratello
About a week ago, I wrote an article about two classic Seiko divers. For many watch fans, including the majority of the Fratello team, Seiko divers hold a special place in their collections. If it wasn’t your first mechanical watch, it was often one of the first that helped grow your love for watches. After […] Visit Finding The Best Seiko Divers In The Brand’s Prospex Collection to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Universal People Universal Dreams is a large-format book that explores, in great detail, a collection of 111 Universal Genève chronographs, and only chronographs. The 384-page book is also a record of the collecting journey of its author, Luca Mignini, who reflects on the lessons learnt and people encountered in his pursuit of watches across the world. A longtime watch collector who is now a professor at Milan’s Bocconi University, Mr Mignini had a long career in the consumer goods industry, culminating in a spell as chief operating officer at Campbell’s, the American food giant famous for its canned soups, after which he retired in 2019. The globe-crossing nature of his career took him from his homeland of Italy to Shanghai and New Jersey, giving him the opportunity to collect internationally, a phenomenon that professionals who travel extensively for work will find familiar. Having been interested in watches since he was a teenager, Mr Mignini made his way through the usual suspects like Rolex and Patek Philippe, before landing on Universal Genève during a trip to Tokyo in 2010. In the time since, he has accumulated the impressive collection of Universal Genève detailed in this book. I met Mr Mignini last year in Geneva and he is clearly obsessed with Universal Genève. His tremendous passion for the brand makes it almost a given Universal People Universal Dreams will be laser focused on Universal chronographs yet exceptionally wide in scope within the narrow s...
Worn & Wound
For the last three years, Citizen¹ has supported what has affectionately become known as Windup in a Lake—a diving event on Lake Michigan coinciding with Windup Watch Fair Chicago. We’ve celebrated Promaster¹ milestones with folk legends, and thrown ’80s-themed aquatic parties for Aqualand. But this year marked the 50th anniversary of Citizen Eco-Drive¹ innovation. To […]
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