Deployant
New: Eberhard Extra-fort Grande Taille Roue à Colonnes
Eberhard collaborates with fotofever Paris, a photography show where the show's competition winner will be presented a new Eberhard watch. Details within.
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Deployant
Eberhard collaborates with fotofever Paris, a photography show where the show's competition winner will be presented a new Eberhard watch. Details within.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
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Deployant
We will be reporting live from the Messe at Baselworld 2019. See the novelties as we see them in this up to the hour, blow by blow coverage from tomorrow.
Revolution
Revolution
Quick round up and top performers at the Phillips Watches Spring 2017 Hong Kong Auction.
Revolution
Suzanne Wong reports in live from Dubai Watch Week 2016.
Revolution
Deployant
BaselWorld 2016 coverage announcement.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne is closing the year in style with the Datograph Perpetual (ref. 410.136E), but now with baguette-cut diamonds for the hours and a five-link platinum bracelet in a style that will definitely please enthusiasts. A compilation of greatest hits that is spot-on for today’s tastes, the new Datograph Perpetual adopts the classic Datograph dial but with a bit of bling. Likewise the bracelet takes after the now-popular Wellendorf bracelets of the 2000s – but with a refined and solid modern construction that allows for easy sizing. Initial thoughts Like some other recent Lange limited editions, this upgraded Datograph Perpetual is easy to like. The makeover is a cosmetic rather than technical one, but it is as good as it gets as facelifts go. The movement inside is the still the L952.1 that’s based on the first-generation Datograph movement. Given how it looks, I would not complain. Notably, the bracelet enjoys the biggest technical upgrade. Though it resembles the bracelets made by Wellendorf for Lange way back, this is actually an Odysseus bracelet in disguise. It has the same modern-day construction and amenities, meaning a robust construction with buttons for convenient link removal. Wellendorf bracelets, in contrast, are pretty but essentially jewellery bracelets on a paired with a very heavy watch, and I doubt they will have the longevity of this one. An example of the first-generation Datograph on Wellendorf bracelet Visually, the dial takes after the ...
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton’s second instalment of its 1980s revival model is the Monterey Ceramic. Styled like its predecessor – both share a similar inspiration – the new Monterey is simpler in execution and consequently more accessible, if not quite affordable. Instead of 18k gold, the case is now ceramic, in either black or green, with a steel case back. That’s matched with a white lacquer dial that replaces the fired enamel of the gold model. A regular production model, the Monterey Ceramic nonetheless retains the proprietary movement from La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) that is a good example of high-quality industrial-haute horlogerie. Initial thoughts The original Monterey, or more accurately, montre, which is French for “watch”, was a distinctive and surprisingly timeless design by Italian architect Gae Aulenti. But it was not exactly a high-end watch. Today’s recreation, in contrast, is just that. While last year’s Monterey in 18k gold was pricey, the new Monterey dials back on the fancy materials, which reduces the retail price by about half. Considering the high-end Geneva-made calibre inside, this makes the Monterey competitive with traditional watchmakers. The look of the Monterey, however, is not traditional. The style was unorthodox when Aulenti penned it in 1988, and continues to be so now. The unusual case construction gives it a bulbous appearance. Though the case is only 11 mm high, it looks and feels taller, but that is arguably part of the charm. The Mon...
Monochrome
Doxa has long used colour to distinguish its dive watches, with bright orange, turquoise, yellow and deep blue among the signature shades of its SUB collection. The new SUB 200T Afterglow adds a new one: a pink sunray dial inspired by the brief period after sunset when the sky above Naples, Florida, takes on shades […]
Fratello
Oris returns to ocean conservation with the Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition. This new 41.5mm dive watch draws inspiration from underwater kelp forests and their role in marine ecosystems. Limited to 1,000 pieces, it combines the familiar Aquis Date design with a textured green dial that evokes the colors and textures of swaying kelp. […] Visit Oris Introduces The Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition to read the full article.
Hodinkee
What We Know The idea of a 'Seaweed' dive watch isn't new—in fact, I used to own a diver that carried that nickname from collectors. But today, Oris offers a much more literal take on that idea with the Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition. No, Oris did not make a dial out of literal kelp. But the overall aesthetic is strongly inspired by underwater nature, thanks to an idea from Francis Pérez, an award-winning underwater photographer and Oris ambassador. © Francis Pérez It's another of Oris's sustainability-focused designs, as the brand continues to raise awareness for various environmental efforts. Think Oris' Bracenet Aquis, with a dial made from melted recycled fishing nets, or its Yangtze Jiangtun Limited Edition introduced this spring. Some of these editions will see a contribution of proceeds to a specific organization. Others, like this Kelp Forest edition, are meant to be conversation starters, giving purpose and meaning to a design beyond purely aesthetic goals. It's something Oris has done for many years, and this one continues that trend. Specifically, the story of this watch focuses on raising awareness of the deforestation of underwater kelp forests—which absorb carbon and provide shelter and food for a wide range of marine wildlife. While most people have probably thought about global overfishing and rising sea temperatures at some point in their lives, I think this issue gets much less talked about, if at all. This marketing story leads to an unsur...
Monochrome
Earth, the Moon, Mars, and a spacecraft… Sounds like Christopher Nolan is cooking up another mind-bending film, but it is actually the new Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission. Following the BR-03 Astro from 2025, this new edition has a dial that takes the concept of space-time rather literally. The watch has no conventional hands. […]
SJX Watches
Having found critical and commercial success with the Automatique, Biver is continuing with the time-only format, but (slightly) more accessibly. The Biver AB is a manual-wind, three-hand watch, but keeping to the high-end approach of the Automatique. The presentation is discreet but precious. While the dial and movement are solid gold, the case and bracelet are steel. The bracelet is notable for being the same as that found on the Automatique, and is arguably amongst the best in class. Initial thoughts I am a fan of the Biver Automatique and was a little sceptical of the idea of a more accessible time-only watch. The AB, however, surprised on the upside. Like the Automatique, it is executed extremely well. The dial, for example, is an extremely fancy interpretation of the “sector” dial, rendered in onyx and yellow gold. The bracelet adds to the appeal significantly as well. It’s essentially the same bracelet found on the Automatique, but in steel. The facetted links are impressively finished, and more importantly, sit comfortably on the wrist. Pulling off a bracelet that is both functional and finely done is an achievement in itself. That this is standard kit for the watch adds to the appeal. The movement is a little less elaborate than that in the Automatique, but remains tangibly high end; it even has a grande sonnerie-style winding click. All the details are attended to, with bonus decorative flourishes here and there. Though a three-hander, the movement is fairl...
Hodinkee
What We Know Timex and Noah have announced the latest in their ongoing series of collaborations, the Noah x Timex Boatswain. Here, the two have taken their Ellipse-style case and swapped out the dial. This makes for the third release from the two brands to make use of this case style, after the Oval Moon — with an oversized moonphase — and the Lighthouse watch — whose standout design detail was a sketch-like image of a lighthouse across the dial. In this case, both those details have been dropped in favor of a reined in nautical theme, which is most evident when looking at the inner track ring on the dial, which is patterned on a ship's rope. Beyond that detail, the Boatswain is, as a watch (dare I say it), rather conventional, with painted Roman Numeral indices, a slightly creamy ivory dial, and your choice of a gold tone or stainless steel case. The watches are double signed, with the Timex logo at twelve, and the Noah script wordmark at six. Hands and dial printing are, in all cases here, black. The case itself retains the same dimensions as previous releases, measuring 31mm x 35mm. The watches are water resistant to 30 meters, and come fitted on textured leather straps; brown with a stainless steel pin buckle on the stainless steel case, and black with a gold tone pin buckle. The straps are fixed to the case by a centrally mounted pin and collar bar, so strap changes are possible, if a little fiddly. As one would expect these watches are quartz. The Noah x Timex ...
Fratello
Contrary to what many watch enthusiasts think, a watch’s design usually starts with the caliber, not the case or the dial. Most of the time, the movement is the limiting factor that a creative team needs to build a design around. But there are multiple ways of solving the puzzle. One involves creating a different […] Visit Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic Continues The Loco Series In Style to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo returns to Carlo Crocco’s original 1980 design, when Hublot was the name of a watch made by MDM Genève. The Tributo’s 38 mm gold case restores the original 12-screw bezel, while a Zenith-derived automatic replaces quartz beneath an austere black dial. The yellow gold variant sticks close to the original design, while its white gold sibling pairs a black onyx dial with blackened bezel screws for a high-contrast monochromatic look. Initial thoughts While today Hublot is almost synonymous with the Big Bang and other large, sometimes extravagant watches, the brand’s origin as a single model made by MDM Genève is rooted in Italian elegance. The original quartz-powered model from 1980 was the first watch to pair a precious metal case with a rubber strap, a then-unheard-of configuration that was nonetheless perfectly suited to la dolce vita in the Italian sun. The Classic Fusion Tributo honours founder Carlo Crocco’s original design, complete with 12 bezel screws and a low-profile feel on the wrist, while being sized up to contemporary standards and equipped with a competent automatic movement courtesy of sister brand Zenith. The white gold version’s onyx dial, an upgrade relative to both the original and the black lacquer of the 2023 remake, is another difference that taps into the ongoing stone dial trend. But it does so in a low-key way that makes sense for the design and doesn’t feel faddish. Curiously, the yellow gold version s...
Hodinkee
What We Know If you know Urwerk, you know that they've always been looking toward the stars, making instantly recognizable watches with the brand's iconic satellite display that rotates around the dial, with the hour pointing to the minute track as the whole display turns and snaps to reveal each passing hour. They've played with a variety of approaches to this concept, widening the minute track and speeding up the snap as well, but today's release of the UR-300 "Time Quantum" introduces a new mechanic that the brand says is inspired by things at the atomic level. Not to be confused with Urwerk's other atomic-inspired watch (one of my top 10 favorite all-time modern watches, the AMC special), this watch draws from the concept of polarized entities—neutrons and electrons—swirling around. Instead of the rotating single carousel in the past, the new display features a "T-frame" structure. The current hour displays as usual; the flat portion of a triangular hour module is made of beryllium copper, brass, anodized aluminum, ARCAP AP1D, and titanium, and points to the current minute as it travels on a 108º arc. The other hours are rotated 120º on their axis to hide them for legibility. Once it approaches the 60th minute (and transitions to 0), three things happen. Power built up during the rotation forces the T-Frame into rotation in a split second. The frame jumps forward and rotates 72º to put the next hour display into position, also rotating the hour module to be visi...
Monochrome
Hermès introduced the H08 collection in 2021 as a different take on the sporty-chic watch, first launched as a time-and-date series, then updated with a monopusher chronograph and, more recently, a skeleton model. The H08 stands out for its rounded square case, original Arabic numerals on the dial, and a mix of surfaces and materials […]
Monochrome
Cyma‘s history in Swiss watchmaking dates to the establishment of Tavannes Watch Company in the 1860s, and it had its ups and downs like the rest of the industry. Recently, we reviewed the Grand Maestro Steel Cross Chronograph, a modern sports series with a layered dial, powered by a familiar Swiss automatic movement. The new […]
Fratello
Somewhere in a remote corner of the internet, there must be a place where people debate whether enamel or porcelain watch dials are nicer. I didn’t go down the rabbit hole into a heated online argument about these two delicate dial-making techniques, but from time to time, I do have an internal discussion on the […] Visit Picking A Saxonian Watch Bouquet: Introducing The Glashütte Original × Meissen Senator Cherry Blossom to read the full article.
WristBuzz
Nomos upgrades the Metro Date Power Reserve with a new caliber and adds a cool new dial color to one of its most complete watches
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hands-on review of the Islander Watches Melville GMT, exploring its golf-inspired dial, design, NH34 movement, and everyday wearability.
Fratello
Today, Depancel opens up and shares its mechanical heart. The new Série-R Chronograph Skeleton takes that approach to a fresh extreme. Fully skeletonized, the dial looks entirely different from the rest of the brand’s lineup. It’s a racy design that takes its cues from ’70s automotive prototypes like the Maserati Boomerang. Unlike that one-off, though, […] Visit The Depancel Série-R Chronograph Skeleton Is A Mechanical Open Book to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Raymond Weil Freelancer World-Traveller celebrates 50 years of the brand with a GMT, worldtimer, relief dial, and a limited run of 260.
WatchAdvice
I take the new Raymond Weil Millésime Jubilee hands-on to see how the bi-compax anniversary edition compares with the existing Tri-Compax Chronograph! What We Love: Bi-compax layout gives the signature Millésime sector dial more room to shine The model retains the exceptional wearability of the Millésime chronographs Carries defining traits of “The Fifty” into a more accessible format What We Don’t: No date display for those who may prefer the added practicality No steel bracelet option! 12.9mm thickness may be substantial for those who prefer slimmer chronograph proportions. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.8/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Raymond Weil, like many other watchmakers, went through some turbulent times during the COVID-19 era. However, as is often the case, periods of adversity can inspire some of the most creative and important work. This was certainly the case with Raymond Weil, as it was during this period that the Millésime collection was born. While the collection was introduced in 2023, its development and design began a few years earlier. The brand wanted to create a new expression of its watchmaking identity, bringing together its history with accessible contemporary watchmaking. The word “Millésime” literally translates to “vintage” or “vintage year” in French, directly reflecting the collection’s inspiration from watches produced between the 1930s and 1960s. View this post on Instagram A pos...
Monochrome
Following the trio of porcelain-dial watches launched in 2025, German brand Glashütte Original continues its collaboration with Meissen, bringing together two Saxon manufactures, with Glashütte Original responsible for the watch and Meissen for the porcelain dial. While earlier editions explored the “Mystic Maison” and “Collage” motifs, the latest Senator Meissen edition turns to a long-established […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Last year, Glashütte Original released a trio of porcelain-dial watches as part of its collaboration with Meissen, Europe's oldest porcelain manufacturer, dating back to 1710. Today, the two historic German houses are partnering again, this time to release a new porcelain-dial watch inspired by Jugatsu-zakura, a Japanese cherry blossom that flowers intermittently during the colder months. The "Cherry Blossom" Senator Meissen retains all of the original collaboration's specs: It measures 40mm wide and 10.2mm thick, is set in red gold, and features an exhibition sapphire crystal caseback. It also comes on a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with a red-gold pin buckle. The dial is made of a thin slice of white porcelain that acts as a canvas for the hand-painted layers, which are fired at 900° Celsius between each layer to achieve maximum depth and intensity. Glashütte Original's lettering and Meissen's crossed swords logo are hand-painted near the center, but besides that, the dial has a blank format. The exclusion of any hour markers, numerals, or indices allows the cherry blossom motif, with its slender branches that extend upward and delicate, pale-pink flowers, to shine—punctuated only by solid-gold hour and minute hands. Powered by Glashütte Original's in-house automatic Caliber 36-16, the watch offers 100 hours of power reserve and operates at 4 Hz. The movement also features a silicon balance spring and a stop-seconds mechanism. (aka hacki...
SJX Watches
The Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater returns with a transparent red mineral crystal dial and an updated movement, 12 years after the original introduced chiming complications to the brand. Combining a wearable case with a clear view of the striking racks, it makes a convincing addition to the more mechanically focused side of the collection. Initial thoughts After 12 years of minute repeaters and musical wristwatches, it’s easy to take Jacob & Co.’s presence in the category for granted. Working closely with external specialists, the brand has developed an impressive portfolio of striking watches in a remarkably short time. That repertoire encompasses the decimal repeater of the Twin Turbo Furious, the three-gong carillon of the Astronomia Maestro, and the combination of a music box and minute repeater in the Opera Godfather. These different approaches to sound illustrate the breadth of the brand’s ambitions and its relationships with specialist movement makers. We recently sat down with Jacob & Co. chief executive Benjamin Arabov to discuss how smaller watches like the Palatial have helped broaden the brand’s clientele. Mr Arabov admitted that he is affectionately known by some of his staff as the “size dictator”, due to his insistence on reducing dimensions while retaining the mechanical creativity. While the brand still makes a number of extremely large watches, the increase in smaller, more wearable options has attracted a new clientele...
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