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Omega Revives the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” with Cal. 3861 SJX Watches
Omega Revives Oct 3, 2024

Omega Revives the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” with Cal. 3861

Omega is reissuing the Speedmaster CK2998 with the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” that’s powered by powered by the latest-generation Moonwatch movement, the Co-Axial Master Chronometer cal. 3861. But the “First Omega in Space” (FOIS) is also a keen-eyed remake of the original and sports a detail enthusiasts will appreciate: the stepped dial is a subtle grey-blue dial that replicates the unique colour found on certain vintage Speedmasters made in the 1960s. Initial thoughts Omega issues enough vintage-inspired Speedmaster models that even someone familiar with watches like myself is sometimes confused. For the uninitiated, the FOIS and Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” will look very similar, but for the enthusiasts the distinction is clear. That said, the FOIS is one of the most appealing recent Speedmasters. The attention to detail in design is obvious and impressive. Moreover it’s a vintage remake with a twist: the grey-blue dial is esoteric enough that it looks different, but still a detail that Speedmaster fans will appreciate. The faux-vintage lume is a bit too much, but from a design perspective it works as the parchment lume complements the grey-blue dial. Add to that Omega’s typically high quality and relatively affordable price – this is marginally less expensive than the Moonwatch cal. 3861 with a sapphire crystal – and the new FOIS is both compelling and good value. CK 2998 returns The second Speedmaster model after the CK2915, the CK2998 was ...

Introducing – The new Kurono Special Projects Réserve de Marche, a.k.a the Sensu NOS Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo was defined as his Oct 2, 2024

Introducing – The new Kurono Special Projects Réserve de Marche, a.k.a the Sensu NOS

The brainchild of Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka (also behind the return of Takano), Kurono Tokyo was defined as his vision of a more accessible take on his design language, with watches merging traditional Japanese cues and classic vintage flair. Recent introductions of the brand focused on compact, retro-inspired watches with a bit less of […]

Lorca Unveils their Model No.2 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Oct 1, 2024

Lorca Unveils their Model No.2 Chronograph

Lorca, founded just about two years ago by New York City based watch enthusiast and recording artist Jesse Marchant, has unveiled their second watch. The new watch, the appropriately named Model No.2, is a follow up to the GMT we looked at in the early months of 2023, and subsequently developed a cult-like following among many discerning vintage watch aficionados. Lorca taps into something that is tough to put your finger on, but is nevertheless kind of obvious when you have one in hand. They could be vintage watches if you didn’t know any better – they are sized to feel like true mid century timepieces. But at the same time, they could really only be born out of the experiences of a present day collector and enthusiast, someone who cares about the little details enough to put them front and center on his idiosyncratic designs.  The Model No.2 is a chronograph that is immediately linked thematically with the Model No.1 GMT thanks to its vintage inspired size (it measures 37mm) and ornate details. It’s a sports watch, for sure, but it veers strongly toward the elegant end of the spectrum. This does not feel like a “tool watch” to me at all, in spite of its rather robust properties that are, frankly, fairly standard these days with any modern watch, no matter the style.  The design cue that will likely stand out most prominently to those who encounter the Model No.2 is the bezel, which has a guilloche pattern consisting of very fine straight lines engraved in som...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref 5738/1R Sep 30, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet

Patek Philippe’s new launches for 2024 included novel complications like the World Time Date ref. 5330G and a “salmon” face for the flagship perpetual calendar ref. 5236P, and also a watch that exemplifies formal simplicity, the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R-001. The new Golden Ellipse is a two-hander in the model’s largest size, but stands out for its bracelet. The only men’s watch in the current catalogue with an integrated bracelet that isn’t a Nautilus, the ref. 5738/1R has a “chain-style” bracelet made by Wellendorff, a German jeweller that has long supplied bracelets to a variety of watch brands. Initial thoughts The Ellipse is one of Patek Philippe’s trademark models but relatively under the radar, especially compared with its famous integrated-bracelet sports watch cousin designed in the same era. But the Ellipse has its appeal, particularly as a no-frills formal watch. Most commonly seen on a strap, the Ellipse feels strikingly different on a bracelet, although it is still easily recognisable. The gold bracelet evokes the mesh bracelets popular in the 1970s and gives the ref. 5738/1R a pronounced retro feel. The bracelet is finely wrought and supple. Up close, the bracelet also reveals a surprisingly intricate design that contrasts with the simplicity of the case. The fact that the bracelet is made by Wellendorff is both a strength and weakness. It has the flexibility of fine jewellery but also the open-ended clasp typical of a jewellery, instead o...

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph European Limited Edition In Green Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph European Limited Sep 28, 2024

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph European Limited Edition In Green

Last year, TAG Heuer released two colorful versions of its 42mm Carrera Chronograph. Of course, the watches took inspiration from car racing. This year, the brand continues on the same track with a new limited edition that is only available in Europe. Although this one is also colorful, it’s a bit more toned down and […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph European Limited Edition In Green to read the full article.

Audemars Piguet Returns to Forged Carbon with the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Returns Sep 20, 2024

Audemars Piguet Returns to Forged Carbon with the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds

Having pioneered the use of carbon-fibre reinforced polymer for watches cases with the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team of 2007, Audemars Piguet (AP) is returning with a new generation of the material that debuts in the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT. Based on the original model in old-school titanium, the new split-seconds chronograph has a carbon composite case made using Chroma Forged Technology (CFT) that allows for greater colour and patterning in the material. As a result, the CFT carbon case has the typical marbled appearance of carbon composite, but flecked with blue veins that glow in the dark. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT might seem like yet another variant of AP’s popular model, but it  is equipped with one of the brand’s latest movements, the cal. 4407. The movement boasts a modern, sophisticated construction, along with one of the most innovative implementations of the split-seconds mechanism in modern watchmaking. The CFT carbon case dresses up the movement in more eye-catching attire, especially for those who found the first version in titanium too conventional. Although the new split-seconds only includes blue as an accent, the range of colours is essentially limitless since CFT carbon can be coloured in myriad hues. That means more colour variations are surely in the pipeline. Though novel for AP, coloured or luminous carbon composite is not a new concept since the material been used for watch ca...

Introducing – The New Czapek Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition Monochrome
Czapek Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Sep 18, 2024

Introducing – The New Czapek Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition

Czapek orchestrated its launch through an equity crowdfunding campaign funded mainly by watch aficionados. As a brand with its ear to the ground, Czapek listens closely to its friends and shareholders and, in 2020, responded to their request for a luxury sports watch. Incarnated by the Antarctique, Czapek’s first luxury sports watch was also powered […]

First Look – The Very Red, Very Handsome Schwarz Etienne Geometry Cherry Monochrome
Schwarz Etienne Geometry Cherry Schwarz Etienne Sep 17, 2024

First Look – The Very Red, Very Handsome Schwarz Etienne Geometry Cherry

Schwarz Etienne, established in 1902, has a rich history as a movement and components supplier. Today, the brand stands out as one of the few manufacturers that produces its balance wheels and hairsprings. In recent years, Schwarz Etienne has also produced watches under its name, blending original designs with traditional craftsmanship. Noteworthy releases include the […]

First Look – The new Baltic Prismic Stone Dials in Three Vibrant Colours Monochrome
Baltic Prismic Stone Dials Sep 16, 2024

First Look – The new Baltic Prismic Stone Dials in Three Vibrant Colours

Baltic, the French brand founded in 2017, continues to expand operations with multiple new collections – such as the funky MR Roulette, the race-oriented Tricompax Tour Auto, or the rugged Hermétique – but also physical points of sales in Paris, London and New York. A strong departure from the online-only inaugural concept, which shows the […]

Omega Seamaster: The Comprehensive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Sep 12, 2024

Omega Seamaster: The Comprehensive Guide

The Omega Seamaster is not only a modern icon among divers’ watches; it’s also the cornerstone of one of the Swiss brand’s most prominent and versatile collections: today’s connoisseur can choose between robust, sporty utility (the Seamaster Diver 300M), nautical-inspired elegance (the Aqua Terra), and understated vintage flair (the Heritage models like the Seamaster 1948), as well as an array of colorways and case materials ranging from steel to titanium to high-tech ceramics and proprietary gold alloys. Nowadays, it can be difficult to believe that such a diverse collection with such a dominant presence traces its roots back to just two groundbreaking models: a post-war gents’ watch from 1948 and its descendant, built for recreational divers, in 1957. MILITARY STYLE Introduced in 1948, the 100th anniversary of the founding of the firm that became Omega, the Seamaster was perhaps always destined to become a mainstay of the Omega portfolio. The watch, however, bore little resemblance to the one we’re familiar with today, the model worn on the screen by James Bond. The “dive watch,” as we know it in the modern sense, didn’t really exist, and the original Seamaster was instead positioned in contemporary advertisements as a watch for “town, sea, and country” - a dress watch for gentlemen that was distinguished from its many competitors by its adoption of a new waterproofing system that Omega had developed for the wartime watches it produced for Britis...

#TBT A Triangular Unicorn Dulux Curvimetre Finally Landed Fratello
Sep 12, 2024

#TBT A Triangular Unicorn Dulux Curvimetre Finally Landed

An opisometer is a small instrument with a tiny gear wheel integrated into its edge that you run along a surface to measure the length of curved lines on topographic maps, charts, schemes, and plans. It’s also called a map measurer, meilograph, or curvimeter, and believe it or not, someone made it into a watch […] Visit #TBT A Triangular Unicorn Dulux Curvimetre Finally Landed to read the full article.

Singapore Micro-Brand Fair “Spring Sprang Sprung” Returns SJX Watches
Oris Sep 10, 2024

Singapore Micro-Brand Fair “Spring Sprang Sprung” Returns

A fair dedicated to micro brands, Spring Sprang Sprung returns for its third year and will take place at the National Library Singapore from October 18-20, 2024. Now bigger than in previous years, the annual event will play host over 43 exhibitors this year, mostly micro brands like Singapore-based Zelos, but also including bigger names like Oris. Spring Sprang Sprung was founded Sugiharto Kusumadi of Singapore retailer Red Army Watches and Yong Keong Lim of micro brand Feynman. As in past years, the event will be more than just a watch exhibition. It encompasses talks and classes, including a leather-crafting workshop, as well as live music by local musician Sheng Li. Tickets are required to attend and can be obtained online via registration on Spring-sprang-sprung.com.  

Finally! Sinn Revives an Iconic Military Chronograph Worn & Wound
Sinn Revives Sep 9, 2024

Finally! Sinn Revives an Iconic Military Chronograph

Sinn fans rejoice; the Frankfurt favorite has finally released a watch we’ve all been waiting for. 156 is a number that most Sinn fans have memorized as it refers to one of the most excellent watches in the Sinn archives, not just because of its looks but also because of its lineage and movement(s). You see, the story of the 156 begins with a watch by a different brand altogether, the Heuer-Leonidas Bundeswehr 1550 SG, commonly called the “Heuer Bund.” image credit: analogshift.com A pilot’s chronograph used in the 60s and 70s mainly by the German airforce, though others as well, the Bund was a remarkable tool watch of its day. Powered by the manual wound Valjoux 22 and Valjoux 230 calibers, they featured flyback mechanisms and a clean, bold design with large lumed numerals and a particularly appealing bezel layout. Measuring 43mm in diameter and 13mm thick, they were huge for the era, though in keeping with pilot watch tradition. Helmut Sinn, the founder of Sinn, purchased old inventory of these watches in the 1980s, reconditioned them, added Sinn branding, and rebadged them as the Sinn 155 Bw. In the late 1980s, Helmut set out to create a new generation of military-issued pilot’s chronographs with the 156 by combining the case and general dial design of the 155/Bund with relatively new-to-the-market automatic chronograph movements by Lemania. Thus, the 156 is the direct successor to the Bund via the 155. My Sinn 156 – gone, but not forgotten The 156s most com...

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Online Auction Fall 2024 SJX Watches
Seiko Izul “bullhead” chronograph We Sep 8, 2024

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Online Auction Fall 2024

The fall auction season kicks off with online auctions, before the primary live sales that take place in November. Phillips in Geneva just opened its online auction with a 70-lot offering of the familiar and mainstream (think Aquanaut, Royal Oak, and Nautilus), but also the esoteric and independent, ranging from an Alain Silberstein perpetual calendar made by Svend Andersen to a Seiko Izul “bullhead” chronograph. We round up a few highlights from the sale, which runs from September 5-12, 2024, with the catalogue and bidding available online. Lot 9 –  Alain Silberstein Marine Perpetual Calendar by Svend Andersen Part of Alain Silberstein’s Marine series of dive watches, the Marine Perpetual is a COSC-certified perpetual calendar in a case rated to 200 m. It’s equipped with a clever, double-sided perpetual calendar movement developed by Svend Andersen. Built on an ETA 2892, the perpetual calendar has a minimalist display with only the date on the dial that’s decorated in Silberstein’s trademark style with geometric shapes, primary colours, along with a starfish, crescent, and sun. On the reverse is the months and leap year in a single register that is mounted on the periphery of the movement, allowing the rotor to travel below the indicator. The Marine Perpetual was a limited edition of 100 watches, though it is likely fewer were made, since they are rarely encountered. It was one of several collaborations that Alain Silberstein in the 1990s with prominent in...

Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre SJX Watches
Sep 6, 2024

Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre

Founded by the namesake father and son duo, Biver has just debuted its second model, the Biver Automatique. Though a simple a time-only watch with central seconds, in contrast to the preceding Carillon Tourbillon, the Automatique is equipped with an elaborately executed movement that’s arguably the most impressive recent automatic. Besides decorative touches like guilloche on the bridges, the JCB-003 also features details like a grande sonnerie-style winding click. The calibre is paired with a comparably elaborately constructed dial with solid gold appliqués that’s available in a variety of materials, including mineral stone like Pietersite. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts The Automatique is clearly meant to showcase the brand’s ability to create a highly finished and refined time-only watch that can compete with more established producers, both in terms of the movement as well as habillage (namely the dial and case). The highlight of the Automatique is the JCB-003 movement. Developed in partnership with movement specialist Dubois Depraz, the JCB-003 is quite possibly the most refined micro rotor movement on the market today. Though it is functionally simple, the movement boasts decorative and technical details along with a high level of finishing. The over-engineered caliber is meant to serve as a base for future complications, which makes sense considering the high cost involved in constructing such a movement. Amongst the calibre’s notable details is the grande so...

Lessons Learned From Geneva Watch Days - Complicated Times Call For Complicated Watches Fratello
Sep 6, 2024

Lessons Learned From Geneva Watch Days - Complicated Times Call For Complicated Watches

The 2024 edition of Geneva Watch Days was the hottest ever. Not only did the temperatures soar to unprecedented heights (30+ degrees Celsius), but more brands also showed their goods than ever before (52), and the number of visitors compared to last year increased by more than 70% (13,800). Some watch insiders expected an event […] Visit Lessons Learned From Geneva Watch Days - Complicated Times Call For Complicated Watches to read the full article.

The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Venice Series”  - Three Monet-Inspired Watches From The Métiers Rares Atelier Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Venice Aug 30, 2024

The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Venice Series” - Three Monet-Inspired Watches From The Métiers Rares Atelier

In the 1999 movie The Talented Mr. Ripley, the character Dickie Greenleaf, who takes over Tom Ripley’s life, says, “‘See Venice and die,’ is what they say? Or is it Rome?” Well, Dickie, the city you’re looking for is Naples. But I have to admit I also thought Goethe once wrote that it was Venice. I […] Visit The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Venice Series” - Three Monet-Inspired Watches From The Métiers Rares Atelier to read the full article.

Hot Take: Tudor Introduces A New Blue Colorway For the Black Bay Chrono Fratello
Tudor Introduces Aug 28, 2024

Hot Take: Tudor Introduces A New Blue Colorway For the Black Bay Chrono

As the watch world holds its breath ahead of Geneva Watch Days, Tudor has taken the opportunity to debut a new blue colorway for the Black Bay Chrono. This latest iteration also features the fan-favorite five-row bracelet, which only made its way onto the model earlier this year. First introduced in both panda and reverse […] Visit Hot Take: Tudor Introduces A New Blue Colorway For the Black Bay Chrono to read the full article.

Out of Office: Exploring the Canadian Rockies with Citizen’s Team Promaster Worn & Wound
Citizen s Team Promaster Citizen Aug 26, 2024

Out of Office: Exploring the Canadian Rockies with Citizen’s Team Promaster

Citizen is a Japanese watch company well known for its technical precision, quality, innovation and eye for design. Founded on principles that elevate society above self, Citizen has been producing timepieces for “all citizens of the world to enjoy” for over 100 years. While following this mantra means producing pieces for the average person, it also means producing time pieces for those who live a life full of adventure, those that seek to go deeper, go higher, and go farther than others have before. For these people, the Promaster line of watches was created.   In early July, I received an invitation from Citizen to “join us on an extreme adventure in the Canadian Rockies as we celebrate Citizen Protester’s 35th Anniversary with Team Promaster.” I instantly accepted despite not knowing what was in store. As I began preparing for this trip, I wanted to dive deeper into the history of Citizen as a brand, and their collection of Promaster watches, to expand my knowledge and hopefully gain some idea of what I’d be getting myself into. Now, Citizen states that “Promaster isn’t just a collection-it’s a mindset and a pursuit of endurance-a symbol of excellence, passion, and performance,” and after the adventure we went on, I can say it’s the truth. Each day saw us pushing ourselves to go higher, go deeper, and go farther than we did the day before.  In order to truly experience the Promaster line of watches, Citizen graciously allowed each of us to ...

Geneva Watch Days 2024 - Get All The Latest Watch News On Fratello Fratello
Aug 26, 2024

Geneva Watch Days 2024 - Get All The Latest Watch News On Fratello

The world of Haute Horlogerie is gearing up for yet another highly anticipated event as Geneva Watch Days 2024 draws near. Since its inception in 2020, this decentralized and innovative watch fair has rapidly become a cornerstone in the annual horological calendar. Designed with a flexible, open format, Geneva Watch Days allows independent and established […] Visit Geneva Watch Days 2024 - Get All The Latest Watch News On Fratello to read the full article.

Explained: The Horizontal Clutch of a Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 530 How it Aug 26, 2024

Explained: The Horizontal Clutch of a Chronograph

The chronograph is an on-demand complication, as its operation requires the user to active the function. As such, the chronograph, or more accurately a stopwatch, engages selectively with the going train of the watch. The chronograph wheel couples with the going train when engaged and uncouples when stopped or reset. The mechanism which makes this selective engagement possible is the clutch.  Arguably the most classical form of clutch is the horizontal clutch, also known as a lateral coupling. As suggested by the name, the coupling action takes place horizontally, with the clutch arm moving on a plane parallel to the movement. Because the mechanism is spread out laterally, it results in an intricate display of mechanics, which is one reason why the lateral coupling is desired by many enthusiasts. A eminently classical chronograph construction in a mid-20th century Patek Philippe ref. 530 How it works The fundamentals of the horizontal clutch are outlined in Figs. 1 and 2. Gear R1 is fixed to the seconds’ mobile, on the same axis, above the going train. The same mobile conveys the turning motion from the going train, and may carry the small seconds hand on the dial side. The clutch arm pivots on the same axis as R1 and carries an intermediary clutch wheel R2. In Fig. 1 the column wheel or cam (not shown) keeps the clutch uncoupled with the intermediary wheel R2 idling. In other words R2 is turning but not driving anything.   Fig 1. Image – Patek Philippe patent EP1437...