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J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969 Worn & Wound
Hamilton watches rolled off May 22, 2023

J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969

It’s not hyperbole to say that this is an historic day in American watchmaking history. J.N. Shapiro, the California based indie known primarily for their beautiful engine turned dials, has announced a new American made watch. According to the brand, this is the first mechanical watch that can be accurately described as “Made in America” since 1969, when the last American made Hamilton watches rolled off the production line. It’s a big deal, and a big step for a watchmaker that has been very much on the rise in recent years, taking on more complex production challenges with every new release. From dials, to cases, to movements, Shapiro can now claim a watch where virtually every component is made in a single workshop.  The watch, which Shapiro has dubbed the Resurgence, is the culmination of 12 years of learned experience among Shapiro and his team. At a glance, it has all of the aesthetic hallmarks of any Shapiro watch. A highly detailed multi level dial, for one, accented with intricate engine turning that has become Shapiro’s hallmark. What sets this watch apart, though, is the movement, which is not only beautiful to look at, with healthy doses of anglage, bridges with a distinct Damaskeening pattern (the American equivalent of Côtes de Genève), and rounded spokes on the caliber’s wheels, but has been designed and fabricated entirely in the United States. Shapiro produced his first movement prototypes in 2019, and that has led to the caliber at work in t...

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Resurgence SJX Watches
May 22, 2023

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Resurgence

Having made a name for himself as a guillocheur, Joshua Shapiro has taken things a step further with the launch of the Resurgence, the most thoroughly American-made wristwatch since 1969. The Resurgence offers several features that are unique within the increasingly crowded field of high-end independent watchmaking. It is a customisable product that offers an almost unlimited number of dial, case, and movement combinations; it’s possible that no two watches will be alike. Almost every aspect of the watch, from the elaborate guilloche dial, engine-turned case, and customisable in-house movement, is surprisingly interesting and original. Initial Thoughts I first met Joshua in 2019 after the launch of the Infinity Series, and even then he was keen to discuss his vision for creating an in-house American-made movement that would live up to the quality of his guilloche work. But I must admit the Resurgence has exceeded my expectations, especially in terms of finishing. As a guilloche specialist, Joshua does not disappoint with the multi-part guilloche dial. Its construction reminds me of the dial found in the Roger W. Smith GREAT Britain, a one-off watch made in 2015 for the British government’s tourism campaign of the same name. But while the construction is similar, the Resurgence dial possesses its own aesthetic that steps out from the shadow of Swiss or British-style guilloche. At US$85,000 in gold and US$70,000 in steel, the Resurgence is priced at the upper end of the ...

Now In The Windup Watch Shop: Nitecore x Boldr Go Prehistoric On A New Collab Worn & Wound
Boldr Go Prehistoric May 19, 2023

Now In The Windup Watch Shop: Nitecore x Boldr Go Prehistoric On A New Collab

Boldr is an exciting young brand based our of Singapore and Malaysia and they really live up to their mantra of “Be Boldr”. With an impressive lineup of tool watches under their belt, Boldlr is becoming known for their serious value proposition, crafting spec-packed watches that fall within very reasonable price ranges. Today, we’re happy to announce that their newest collaboration with Nitecore is now in the Windup Watch Shop. Let’s take a look at this unique and fun meeting of the brands, where the result is a dinosaur-themed mashup that’s sure to bring out your inner child. Boldr is an exciting young brand based our of Singapore and Malaysia and they really live up to their mantra of “Be Boldr”. With an impressive lineup of tool watches under their belt, Boldlr is becoming known for their serious value proposition, crafting spec-packed watches that fall within very reasonable price ranges. Today, we’re happy to announce that their newest collaboration with Nitecore is now in the Windup Watch Shop. Let’s take a look at this unique and fun meeting of the brands, where the result is a dinosaur-themed mashup that’s sure to bring out your inner child. The post Now In The Windup Watch Shop: Nitecore x Boldr Go Prehistoric On A New Collab appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Business News: F.P. Journe to Open Boutique in London SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 1, 2023

Business News: F.P. Journe to Open Boutique in London

Having been the subject of chatter since the beginning of 2023, the F.P. Journe boutique in London is now official. Located at 33 Bruton Street, around the corner from Hermès in London’s upmarket Mayfair district, the store is slated to open in early summer. Although F.P. Journe has been in London almost since its founding in 1999, it was always represented by retailers. Now, as is the case in many other cities, F.P. Journe is bringing things in-house. The brand’s 11th boutique, the new London store joins its long-established outposts in Tokyo, Geneva, and Hong Kong, giving F.P. Journe a major presence in yet another key city. The upcoming boutique at 33 Bruton Street Given the mismatched supply and demand for F.P. Journe watches – it makes about 1,000 watches a year and enjoys demand many multiples of that – the business rationale of the new boutique might be hard to grasp, at least on its face. But given that Mr Journe has already spoken of consolidating his brand’s retail network around the world – word has it that even some boutiques might not be spared – it can be inferred that the London boutique will be receiving some of the inventory that would have otherwise gone to the soon-to-be-closed locations. According to industry insiders, the team for the new boutique has already been hired, with a respected industry veteran slated to take the helm of the store. Regardless of his or her talents, the boutique’s manager will likely need to be adept at managi...

Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5557: Instant-Change Time Traveler Now has One of its Best Dials – Reprise Quill & Pad
Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5557 Apr 29, 2023

Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5557: Instant-Change Time Traveler Now has One of its Best Dials – Reprise

When Martin Green first got into watches in the late 1990s, Breguet was one of the brands that captivated him right from the beginning. And one Breguet stood out to Martin more than others: the Hora Mundi. Now he thinks that the new Hora Mundi 5557 is even better and with a complicated dial that is simply sensational.

Thierry Stern has no plans to sell Patek Philippe and is set to introduce the first new collection since 1999 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Apr 9, 2023

Thierry Stern has no plans to sell Patek Philippe and is set to introduce the first new collection since 1999

When you have the most sought-after watch in the world, it takes humongous cojones to kill it off. While some would say it is insanity, Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern, who elected to discontinue the coveted 5711 Nautilus in steel, would probably argue it is discipline. A calculated effort that respects the trust and loyalty … ContinuedThe post Thierry Stern has no plans to sell Patek Philippe and is set to introduce the first new collection since 1999 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Everything you need to know about watch finishing Time+Tide
Mar 9, 2023

Everything you need to know about watch finishing

Looking for a singular resource on all the watch finishing techniques you should ever be familiar with? Look no further, as we try to list every polishing, brushing and dial-creating process we knew of and could come across. Ctrl+F away, dear reader. Anglage Anglage, bevelling or chamfering, describes a movement finishing technique in which the … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about watch finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Ulysse Nardin Blast, Blancpain, and our NOW Buying Guide Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Blast Blancpain Feb 17, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Ulysse Nardin Blast, Blancpain, and our NOW Buying Guide

TGIF! But, before you gear up for your weekend fun, here are some highlights from this week – along with a reminder that now is the time to pick up our NOW Magazine. Ulysse Nardin drops a new Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold 45mm 18K rose gold and PVD blue titanium faceted case inspired by … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Ulysse Nardin Blast, Blancpain, and our NOW Buying Guide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Watches & Wonders Becomes More Accessible SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 30, 2022

Business News: Watches & Wonders Becomes More Accessible

In a long anticipated move, the organisers of Watches & Wonders – now the world’s most important luxury-watch fair – have just revealed the 2023 exhibition will be open to the public on its final two days. The event takes place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023, so the public days will be on the first two days of April. Simultaneously, the organisers also debuted the Watches & Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF). According to the announcement, the decision to create the foundation was taken by Rolex, Richemont, and Patek Philippe. Both the public days and WWGF are evidence that the Geneva giants, Rolex and Patek Philippe, now have a lead role in the city’s major watch fair. Historically that position was occupied by Richemont, the luxury group that owns a stable of brands ranging from Cartier to IWC. New titles for Messrs Dufour and Perrin The WWGF will “organise… watch and jewellery exhibitions, in Geneva and beyond… and define the major strategic areas of this ambitious project.” Most notable is the fact the the WWGF will be chaired by Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour, while its deputy chairman is Emmanuel Perrin, head of Richemont’s watch division. Though unstated, it is implied that the WWGF succeed the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), which was long the organiser of SIHH and also of this year’s W&W;. Though technically independent, the FHH was regarded by the industry as being dominated by Richemont. Anyone can now walk the ha...

Patek Philippe’s Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual is Now Left Handed SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Oct 16, 2022

Patek Philippe’s Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual is Now Left Handed

The combination of split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar has been a mainstay in Patek Philippe’s catalogue ever since the ref. 5004, but the brand’s latest take on the concept is unorthodox. The Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5373P-001 is described by Patek Philippe as designed for “left handers” and has its crown and pushers on the left side of the case. Essentially an inverted version of the ref. 5372P that’s now discontinued, the ref. 5373P is the first “destro” timepiece among the brand’s regular production offerings, but the movement is classic Patek Philippe. Like the earlier versions of the model, the ref. 5373P is powered by the CHR 27-525 PS Q, a gorgeous, refined, and extremely slim movement that’s amongst the thinnest split-seconds chronographs ever made. Initial thoughts The ref. 5373P is paradoxical. It’s not majorly different from its predecessor, in fact it’s just a rotated case and new dial, but the watch looks and feels entirely different from the ref. 5372P. The left-handed case sets it apart, as does the high-contrast livery. The black-and-red colour scheme seems mismatched to the elegant form of the watch – the case and movement are both impressively slim – but I can imagine this will have a strong appeal for someone seeking something different yet fundamentally classic Patek Philippe high horology. This clearly stands out in the catalogue, offering an alternative that is recognisably di...

Business News: Patek Philippe Acquires Stakes in Geneva Gem-Setting Giant SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Acquires Stakes Sep 14, 2022

Business News: Patek Philippe Acquires Stakes in Geneva Gem-Setting Giant

Little know outside the industry but a key supplier to the biggest watch brands, Salanitro S.A. is Switzerland’s biggest gem-setting and jewellery specialist catering to watchmakers. Owned by its namesake founder until now, Salanitro now counts Patek Philippe as a shareholder. Founded three decades ago by Pierre Salanitro, the company is located a Geneva suburb not far from Rolex headquarters. A discreet but well-connected individual, Mr Salanitro built his company both organically and through acquisitions, creating an enterprise that’s the preeminent jewellery and gem-setting specialist for the watch industry. Today Salanitro far exceeds the competition in scale with annual revenue in the high nine figures and over 230 employees, more than half of them gem-setters. The company covers all the bases when it comes to jewelled watches: it supplies, cuts, and sets gemstones, and also produces components with the three dozen CNC mills on its premises. Gem-setters at work in Salanitro’s facility. Image – Salanitro The art of gem-setting is a manual process that requires deft hands. Image – Salanitro Mr Salanitro’s three children have no involvement in the business, explaining his desire to seek a strategic investor.  “I am very proud and delighted that Patek Philippe has acquired a stake in my company,” says Mr Salanitro, “[The brand is] the ideal partner for securing the firm’s future… [and] continue our activities and guarantee jobs beyond generations....

Everything you need to know about the new 100m WR 49mm Apple Watch Ultra Time+Tide
Sep 8, 2022

Everything you need to know about the new 100m WR 49mm Apple Watch Ultra

The Apple Watch is the world’s most popular watch. Yet while it’s always been relatively rugged for a smartwatch, the Apple Watch still has its limitations – leaving some wondering when an even more robust take on the device would hit the market. Today, during Apple’s Keynote Event, the tech giant revealed the Apple Watch Ultra. … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about the new 100m WR 49mm Apple Watch Ultra appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith launches e-commerce in Australia – boutique editions available now online! Time+Tide
Zenith launches e-commerce Sep 7, 2022

Zenith launches e-commerce in Australia – boutique editions available now online!

One of the biggest gripes in the watch marketplace is accessibility. For example, when the MoonSwatch launched, and it was revealed it would only be sold in boutiques, many were concerned they did not have a place to visit locally to purchase it. This is where e-commerce is crucial, opening the doors and giving people … ContinuedThe post Zenith launches e-commerce in Australia – boutique editions available now online! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

GWD WIND DOWN: Geneva Watch Days wrap up and some big news… Time+Tide
Sep 3, 2022

GWD WIND DOWN: Geneva Watch Days wrap up and some big news…

We are wrapping up an exciting week here in Switzerland, with Geneva Watch Days 2022 coming to an end. Thirty brands brought the heat, giving us plenty to check out all over the city. It is a more casual vibe than what you would find inside the indoor Palexpo maze of Watches & Wonders, instead … ContinuedThe post GWD WIND DOWN: Geneva Watch Days wrap up and some big news… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Every Watch Tells A Story: “Did I know a Rolex Hulk sold for $95,000? No, I’m very surprised” Time+Tide
Rolex Hulk sold Jul 20, 2022

Every Watch Tells A Story: “Did I know a Rolex Hulk sold for $95,000? No, I’m very surprised”

Way back in the mists of time or, in fact, just six years ago, you could still randomly walk into a Rolex boutique and pick up a steel sports watch on the spot. That’s what happened to Arman in 2016. He was on holiday from Australia in Las Vegas where he saw this Rolex Submariner 116610LV … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells A Story: “Did I know a Rolex Hulk sold for $95,000? No, I’m very surprised” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Right now, Chris Hemsworth is living his best watch life Time+Tide
Jun 21, 2022

Right now, Chris Hemsworth is living his best watch life

“Freedom. After many ages in shackles, however golden those shackles  may be, I have tasted the sweet, honeyed mead of liberation. And as sure as I am Odin’s son, I vow to never allow myself to be bound by such restraints again, though they may have a rich heritage, and are super-comfortable and attractive in … ContinuedThe post Right now, Chris Hemsworth is living his best watch life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

My 5 favourite lots from the Ineichen Royal 50 auction on May 28 – with no buyer’s premium! Time+Tide
May 24, 2022

My 5 favourite lots from the Ineichen Royal 50 auction on May 28 – with no buyer’s premium!

Ineichen Auctioneers are known for their thematic auctions, whether it’s focusing on blue dials for “Precious Blues” or the rose-gold themed “La Vie en Rose” auction earlier this year. They also have a pioneering spirit – their most recent Joker XXX auction consisted of a three-piece set including a piece unique watch, Porsche 911, and … ContinuedThe post My 5 favourite lots from the Ineichen Royal 50 auction on May 28 – with no buyer’s premium! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch No. 1 SJX Watches
Feb 7, 2022

In-Depth: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch No. 1

A quartet representing the entirety of Philippe Dufour’s repertoire went under the hammer last year, with the Grande Sonnerie wristwatch no. 1 setting the record for any Dufour sold publicly when it achieved the equivalent of US$5.2 million including fees. Sold at the same auction, but for substantially less, was the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch no. 1. Despite the relative values, the pocket watch is arguably a more significant timepiece within Mr Dufour’s work. Why? Initial thoughts In today’s wristwatch-centric era, the fact that it is a pocket watch counts against it. That was also the verdict of the market – the pocket watch sold for half as much as the wristwatch in November 2021. But the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch is the ultimate distillation of Philippe Dufour’s philosophy, the ideal synthesis of the inspiration and impetus behind his creations. He has long stated, both publicly and to me in past conversations, that his watches are a reverential homage to the haute horlogerie produced in the Vallée de Joux during its heyday before the Quartz Crisis, the period between the late 19th to the mid 20th centuries. Timepieces of that era, especially those with ebauches made by the valley’s best specialists like Louis-Elisee Piguet and Ami LeCoutre, are the best watches ever made in Switzerland in his view. And the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch can pass for a timepiece from the late 19th century, perhaps even one made by Mr Dufour’s favourite historical w...