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Monochrome
Ace Jewelers, the family-owned Dutch jewellery and watch retailer, has been a prominent name in the industry for almost half a century. The company’s reputation has made limited-edition collaborations with watch brands possible, such as special Amsterdam editions of Ace together with Frederique Constant and Nomos; there was also an Amsterdam-themed “Ace” watch with Cedric […]
Fratello
Today, I want to talk about why I would opt for a modern-day Tudor Black Bay over a modern-day Rolex Submariner. The reasons are subjective and not based on specifications. I would also love to read your views in the comments section. Read on. Rolex and Tudor are part of the same family. However, since […] Visit Is Tudor’s New Black Bay More Compelling Than The Rolex Submariner? to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
There are some watches out there that have achieved a rare sort of infamy and the Seiko Speedtimer 6139, also known as the “Pogue,” is one such watch. It is named after Colonel William R. Pogue who wore one during NASA’s Skylab missions. It was also the first automatic chronograph to travel to space. It’s become an icon because of its historical bona fides, but also because of it’s positively ridiculous (read, charming) colorway that fits so well in the ‘70s decade in which it was conceived. Key aesthetic tenets of a Pogue are the red and blue bezel insert and a certain yellowish-gold dial. It’s the sort of gold color that’ll have you conspiracy theorizing that this watch was in the Pulp Fiction briefcase. All of this backstory and preamble is to intentionally bury the lede and tell you that Seiko has, today, brought the Pogue back…sort of. Say hello to the Speedtimer Solar Chronograph, SSC947 which follows in the recently established design format of the solar Speedtimer range – the 41.5mm case size version of which the current Pepsi bezel SSC913 is a personal favorite. I remember when the line was announced and really loving the execution from the compact pushers to the great case size to the overall thinness due to the lack of a mechanical movement. And look, while the Pogue owes much of its fame to the fact that it housed an automatic caliber, we cannot just expect brands to issue 1:1 remakes of classic models. Seiko needs to innovate. It found a ...
Monochrome
Founded in 2017 by Etienne Malec and friends, Baltic continues its rapid expansion to the point of not being able to use the term micro-brand anymore… Now an established watch brand with a comprehensive collection, ranging from racing chronographs to dive watches and adventure-themed models, Baltic also ventured into the world of dress watches with […]
Monochrome
For obvious reasons, the watch world tends to glorify complexity and the accumulation of functions into a single watch. We, at MONOCHROME, are no better than the rest of the crowd and we can spend days contemplating a Grande Complication watch, or a timepiece with a novel, ultra-complex escapment. However, we also tend to forget […]
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Worn & Wound
If you’ve spent any time on the watch internet over the last few weeks, it should be no surprise that it’s dive watch season. Hardly a day goes by right now that some new dive watch doesn’t pop up on our radar, or come across our Instagram feeds. Now - with the release of the Type 5 L - Ressence has joined in, harnessing the sheer awesomeness of copious lume to make what may be the coolest version of their Type 5 diver yet. When the Ressence Type 5 was first released in 2015, it was unlike anything else on the market. With its bulbous architecture, oil-filled case, and signature Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) displaying the time, the Type 5 was about as fun as a watch could get. The Type 5 L pushes it even further and is a nice reminder that dive watch design doesn’t have to be static - there are still plenty of pages in the dive watch playbook to explore. On a technical level, the Type 5 L is exactly the watch we’ve seen over the last near-decade, but the technical side of things only tells part of the story. What sets the Type 5 L apart is its fully luminous dial. Without the glow, the Type 5 L looks awfully similar to the gray Type 5G from 2017. It shares the same 46mm wide, 15.5mm thick grade 5 titanium case; the same ETA 2824/2 calibre modified with a ROCS 5 module and magnetic transmission showing hours, minutes, and running seconds (plus oil temperature for good measure); and the same 100 meter water resistance. But it’s a whole other story ...
Fratello
In March 2019, Omega introduced the Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary edition in Moonshine Gold. This watch is a modern reproduction of the 1969 gold Moonwatch presented to US President Nixon, Vice President Agnew, and all active NASA astronauts at the time. That watch also became available to the general market, with a slightly […] Visit Five Years With The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 In Moonshine Gold 310.60.42.50.99.001 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne marks the 25th year of its landmark chronograph this year, with two commemorative editions so far – a tremendously expensive all-in-one edition and the relatively more accessible Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary. The first Datograph with a white gold case and also the first regular production model with a blue dial, the anniversary edition the result of a relatively modest cosmetic makeover – but unexpectedly compelling. Initial thoughts The Datograph in an imperfect watch – amongst other things it’s top heavy with a somewhat dated dial design – but it has an intrinsic appeal because its movement is outstanding. Even though it’s already 25 years old, the movement remains exceptional in terms of aesthetics. The fact that it’s 25 years old also makes the Datograph important, because Lange created such a movement long before such things became a thing. So the 25th anniversary of the Datograph is an occasion worth marking. Lange debuted two watches for the anniversary (with perhaps a third one to come): the complicated and expensive Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen, and the more accessible Datograph 25th Anniversary. On its face the Datograph Up/Down seems a bit mundane for an anniversary watch. Both the blue dial and white gold case are unique for the Datograph, but together the watch doesn’t look or feel that different. But like the Datograph as a model, the anniversary edition is imperfect yet appealing. Though it is plain...
SJX Watches
Following the original Pilot Majetek in stainless steel, Longines has unveiled the Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition with a titanium case and a grey-tone livery. Modelled on the original majetek aviator’s watch supplied to the Czechoslovakian air force in the 1930s, the limited edition is identical to the stainless steel variation in terms of design, dimensions, and movement, but is lightweight thanks to the case metal but also unexpectedly pricey. The Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition in grade 5 titanium Initial thoughts The Pioneer Edition is Longines’ third re-issue of the original. Longines didn’t quite get it right with the first remake, the Heritage 1935. It lacked the rotating bezel with a triangular marker that was one of the defining features of the original, and also had an awkwardly positioned date window at six and “automatic” on the dial. Last year’s Pilot Majetek in steel was not really a remake since it has a distinctly different case design, but still gained several refinements over the Heritage 1935. However, the Pioneer Edition is not really a tangible improvement over the steel model. Thought the titanium case does bring with it lightness as well as a muted grey finish that goes well with the design, it comes at a big price increase of almost 40% over the steel version. Such a large premium for a titanium case doesn’t make much sense today given the difference in cost of a case in either material is negligible for a big brand. The Arabic indices, a...
SJX Watches
The most complicated H. Moser & Cie. sports watch to date, the Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Blue Enamel is derived from the unique Streamliner Pandamonium created in collaboration with MB&F;. The new Streamliner retains both the minute repeater and tourbillon, but without the panda figure and the oversized balance wheel. In typical Moser “concept” style, the blue grand feu enamel dial is free of any markings and finished with a fumè gradient effect that darkens towards the periphery. Also found in the Endeavour, the movement was developed in collaboration with specialist Manufacture Hautes Complications (MHC). Initial thoughts Since Moser released the Streamliner four years ago, the sports watch has become the brand’s bestseller – unsurprisingly given the popularity of the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch category in general. The new repeater-tourbillon fills in a gap in the Streamliner range, which is to say a top-of-the-line, flagship complication. Both minute repeater and flying tourbillon are visible on the dial If you like the Streamliner design, as I do, the new repeater-tourbillon is a handsome watch. The addition of the visible mechanisms on the dial add greater detail and depth to the visuals, while the fired enamel dial is a nice tough, though a fragile enamel dial is somewhat paradoxical in a sports watch. The repeater-tourbillon is similar in dimensions to the Streamliner chronograph, a good size for a sports watch of this design. The ...
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Hodinkee
Forget lume on the hands, how about enough lume on the dial that you don't need lume on anything else?
Fratello
The Ming 37.08 Starlight is the brand’s newest release, and it’s a natural beauty that reacts dramatically to the light. As we’ll see, this watch uses the latest case format, which fits well on wrists of various sizes. Potential buyers will also like that a bracelet is standard and that the model will be produced […] Visit Introducing: The Ming 37.08 Starlight With An Arresting Aventurine Dial to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Known for its three-dimensional clocks ranging from the Batmobile to a Chanel sculpture, L’Epee 1839 has carved out a niche for itself as the clockmaker to leading watch and luxury brands. Now it becomes part of LVMH, the luxury conglomerate that owns Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, and TAG Heuer. The acquisition expands the portfolio of the LVMH Watches Division to encompass an entirely new product category that is small but lucrative and also high profile. Clocks are increasingly a must-have offering for major luxury brands. One of L’Epee’s most recent creations was the Louis Vuitton Montgolfière Aéro clock (pictured above). Another of L’Epee’s creations, the Tiffany Taxi. Image – Tiffany & Co. Business as usual LVMH has acquired the parent of L’Epee, Swiza, which also makes clocks under the Swiza and Matthew Norman brands. Arnaud Nicolas, who has been chief executive and creative director of L’Epee since 2009, will continue leading the company. Despite the change in ownership, the clockmaker’s work for other brands, which have included MB&F; and Ulysse Nardin, will continue after the acquisition. However, L’Epee will certainly work with more brands in the LVMH stable, having already created clocks for Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co., and Hublot. “L’Epée has initiated a number of watchmaking partnerships that we will maintain and develop with Arnaud Nicolas [chief executive and creative director of L’Epee],” says Frédéric Arnault, the chairman of LV...
Fratello
Diver’s, field, and pilot’s watches are among the most popular variations in the time-only-watch universe. While Circula already covered the first two, now with the ProFlight, it also ticks the last box. Although unmistakably derived from Circula’s ProTrail, this ProFlight model immediately impresses with its modern pilot’s watch face. It’s probably thanks to a quirky, […] Visit Hands-On With The New Circula ProFlight Blue to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The world’s most important watch trade show, Watches & Wonders, has just announced the dates for next year: April 1-7, 2025. Practically all major luxury watch brands present their latest wares at Watches & Wonder (W&W;), including Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier. The event also named additions to the board of the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF), the governing body of the event. Chanel, Hermès and LVMH join Rolex, Richemont, Patek Philippe, and Cartier on the board, giving representation to the biggest brands or groups showing at the event. Alongside the enlarged board, the WWGF appointed Cartier chief executive Cyrille Vigneron chairman of the board, taking over from Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour, who now becomes the organisation’s treasurer. Still a key man on the board, Jean-Frederic Dufour (second from left) Give and take The changes at WWGF reflect longstanding rivalry between the brands and groups that emerged when the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, better known as SIHH, evolved into W&W; after the demise of Baselworld. Previously dominated by Richemont and Cartier, SIHH transformed into an event that included giants like Rolex and LVMH. LVMH long believed it deserved a seat on the board, according to a senior executive of its watch division. It is possible that the elevation of Cartier’s boss to the chairmanship is a concession for the jewellery agreeing to the enlarged board. Interestingly, the two-year term of Mr Vign...
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Worn & Wound
The Seamaster Aqua Terra just got a makeover with an all-new black dial to add a bit of modernity to the model. Known for its ocean-inspired style, the Seamaster Aqua Terra collection has long been a favorite for those looking for a watch that has diving elements without being too on-the-nose about it.. With that, expanding the black dial to three sizes – 34, 38, and 41mm – allows for one to really enjoy this watch on land and the sea. In terms of design, you’ll find all the elements you have come to love from the Seamaster Aqua Terra models of the past. The 41 mm and 38 mm versions maintain familiar elements such as trapezoidal date windows, sharp triangular indexes, and an outer minute track. The 34 mm version, however, distinguishes itself with a round date window, sailboat-shaped indexes, and no minute track, offering a unique look within the collection. The dials are lacquer finished, and abandon the familiar “teak” pattern found on previous references, offering a sleeker and more subdued look. All watches are steel-on-steel, giving a blank canvas to the small design details that Omega has put into these references. The 41 mm model houses a Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8900, while the 38 mm and 34 mm versions feature the Calibre 8800. These movements are certified by METAS, meeting the Swiss industry’s highest standards for watch performance. If you’re so inclined, you can take this watch out into the ocean with a water-resistance of 150 meters. A...
SJX Watches
In 1906, Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels, united not only in matrimony but also in an unbridled passion for the art of jewellery, laid the foundations of what would become Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;). As the firm grew in stature and acclaim, it became clear that the founders’ vision extended beyond the realm of high jewellery. Like other storied makers before them, such as the renowned house of Fabergè, they ventured into the worlds of objet d’art and horology, sometimes blending the two, where the measuring of time transcended the ordinary and entered the realm of the extraordinary. The Varuna model The objects crafted by VC&A; during the early decades of the 20th century extend beyond conventional boundaries, offering a canvas for fulfilling unusual special orders. One such emblematic example is the scale model of the Varuna, a yacht commissioned by Eugene Higgins, a New York millionaire at the turn of the last century. In enamelled gold, the vessel gracefully rests on a sea of sculpted jasper mounted on an ebony base. Its funnel is an aesthetic marvel and its bell, functional, echoing the era’s sophisticated craftsmanship. Although the jewellery house has long since passed into the ownership of Swiss luxury group Richemont, at its heart lies the same philosophy that imagines the world as it should be - a paradise in the universal sense - one overflowing with happiness and boundless imagination. This has shaped the whimsical, elegant collections of the brand...
Quill & Pad
De Bethune watches rarely incorporate zero complications and only two hands, so on that basis alone the Midnight Blue is exceptional. Rarity also helps; only a few dozen have been built in the decade since the model’s launch.
Worn & Wound
The Divers Sixty-Five has been a staple in the Oris collection since 2015. In the near decade since its inception, we have seen many iterations. Many of these have been community-driven, and there have also been collaborative projects with multiple prominent media outlets and retailers. It would be an understatement to say that Oris has its finger on the pulse of the watch world, and their latest offering proves just that. New for 2024, they are introducing the Divers Sixty-Five 400 in 38mm. The great thing about being an independent watch manufacturer is the freedom to do what they believe is right. For some time, they have been asked to make a Divers Sixty-Five with the Calibre 400 movement, without a date display, in the enthusiast favorite 38mm size, and that’s exactly what this is. It is made of stainless steel and comes with a matching monochromatic unidirectional bezel with a minute scale in relief. Not only does the Calibre 400 offer 120 hours of power reserve, but it also comes with a class-leading 10-year warranty and 10-year service intervals. The watch is only available with the rivet-style stainless steel bracelet and features a vibrant green dial. It has a diameter of 38mm, a thickness of 12.6mm, and a lug width of 19mm. The watch is in-house regulated to be accurate to within -3/+5 seconds per day, which exceeds COSC tolerances. The movement is visible through the screw-down exhibition case back, and it is water-resistant up to 100m. This new model fulfill...
Fratello
It has not escaped your attention that the retail price for a new Omega Speedmaster Professional has recently increased. Omega drastically changed many things, not only under the hood (caliber 3861) but also with different exterior parts than before. A new case, dial, hands, and bracelet were been designed for the Moonwatch, making it aesthetically […] Visit Five Speedy Alternatives To The Current Omega Speedmaster Professional to read the full article.
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Kicking off Monday with an inspiring visit from HerzWerk Watchmaking! We had the privilege of interviewing Martin and exploring his stunning creations, including a masterpiece crafted during the challenges of the Covi...
Monochrome
Like seasons throughout the year, there’s a constant ebb and flow in terms of design, shapes, colours, sizes and materials in watchmaking. Colour is perhaps the easiest to change for brands, but also the one that’s the most susceptible to the public’s opinion and demands. With green being “the hottest thing since sliced bread” over […]
SJX Watches
Practically every brand with a significant offering of sports watches has a 1,000 m-or-deeper dive watch in its catalogue, and Breitling has one in its catalogue since 1983. The latest is the Superocean Automatic 46 Superdiver that features a titanium case water resistant to 1,000 m that also features a bezel-lock mechanism. Initial thoughts Breitling redesigned the Superocean two years ago, giving its line of dive watches a modern aesthetic with subtle vintage-inspired elements, distinguishing it from the vintage remakes common in this segment. Superocean Superdiver retains the same styling, but in a larger, higher-spec format. For someone who likes the earlier Superocean but found it too small or 300 m too modest – this is it. As an aside, the camouflage-pattern dial is new for the Superocean line and feels unnecessary, though the pattern isn’t too obvious at a distance. Given Breitling’s regular cosmetic updates, a different dial style is likely on the cards. Though the priciest Superocean at US$6,300 on a strap, the Superdiver is still equipped with an ETA 2892. That’s adequate but not really competitive at this price point given the superior movements found in most competing watches. The black variant with its rubber strap More variety Having recently expanded three of its signature collections - Navitimer, AVI, and Avenger - Breitling now does the same for the Superocean, its longstanding line of dive watches. The current-generation Superocean draws ins...
Worn & Wound
Many brands offer military-inspired watches; however, Praesidus takes it one step further. Not only were their original models informed by the mil-spec units the U.S. Military contracted from Bulova, Waltham, and Elgin during WWII, but they are also committed to supporting war veteran associations and communities by donating 5% of each sale to their partner organizations. Through their watches, they aim to bring these brave soldiers’ spirits to a new generation of military history enthusiasts so their stories continue to be shared for generations. Many brands offer military-inspired watches; however, Praesidus takes it one step further. Not only were their original models informed by the mil-spec units the U.S. Military contracted from Bulova, Waltham, and Elgin during WWII, but they are also committed to supporting war veteran associations and communities by donating 5% of each sale to their partner organizations. Through their watches, they aim to bring these brave soldiers’ spirits to a new generation of military history enthusiasts so their stories continue to be shared for generations. The post Introducing Praesidus To The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Longines has certainly mastered the skill of downsizing. I’m not talking about getting rid of any of its personnel; it’s more about shaving some millimeters off its watches. We saw it happen with the Legend Diver and the Spirit. Both were first introduced in bigger sizes. Later, the legendary Swiss brand also introduced sub-40mm options. […] Visit Hands-On With The New 38mm Longines Conquest to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Seiko just unveiled two new additions to its range of (very) affordable sports watches, the Seiko 5 Sports SRPL03 and SRPL05. Following on the Seiko 5 Sports SNXS, the pair of limited-edition timepieces are more than just remakes of yet another Seiko 5; they are faithful re-issues of the Seiko 5 Sports ref. 5126-8090 “Kamen Rider”. The nickname comes from the fact that the watches were featured in the hit Japanese superhero television series also known as Masked Rider. The titular superhero wearing a beetle helmet sported the vintage original in the series that was first broadcast in 1971. Initial thoughts Vintage re-issues are commonplace to the point where the concept has become cliché. Seiko has been rolling out vintage-inspired timepieces across its sub-brands at every point of the price spectrum, but the outstanding price-quality ratio differentiates it from the competition. Priced at US$450, the new Seiko 5 Sports models demonstrate the outstanding value proposition. Moreover, they also have an interesting backstory with the Kamen Rider association that will resonate with people of a certain age. A hit from the 1970s to mid 1990s, the television show will probably evoke a sense of nostalgia for people who grew up during that period, which adds to the appeal of the watch. A superhero’s watch Modelled on the vintage original, the new Seiko 5 Sports features a cushion-shaped case that is 38.5 mm in diameter and 12.4 mm thick. It has all the ingredients of typica...
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