Deployant
Three new Nomos Ahoi Atlantic watches
Nomos extends their stylish wear everywhere watch - the Ahoi Atlantic with new animations to dial accents. Full details here.
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Deployant
Nomos extends their stylish wear everywhere watch - the Ahoi Atlantic with new animations to dial accents. Full details here.
Quill & Pad
The Watches TV presents a follow-up video of Danièla and Philippe Dufour, marking close to a year of the two working together. Philippe expresses his joy at working with his daughter, who is in a perfect position to achieve the high level of work that the master requires for his timepieces and carry on the family name.
Deployant
When it comes to value proposition, no watch brand does it better than Tissot. And the new Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional is another winner in our books.
Hodinkee
Relative value thanks to a similar design is the theme of the week in the Vintage Shop.
SJX Watches
Having rounded up a few highlights from the independents at the Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong watch auction taking place on May 27 and 28, we now turn to the notable complicated watches. We selected five watches, most of which are exceptionally complicated and extremely expensive when they were new, making them value buys today. These include lesser known watches from major brands, such as as the Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon and the Audemars Piguet Millenary Minute Repeater with an unusual direct-impulse escapement. And the selection also includes a unique Patek Philippe ref. 3974 with a dial bearing Breguet numerals and an unusual Calatrava cross (which won’t likely be a value buy unfortunately). Registration for bidding and the full catalogue for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV can be accessed here. Lot 855: Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon Cartier’s modern-day venture into high horology was at its most ambitious with the Fine Watchmaking collection launched in 2008, which included various creative complications such as the range of mystery watches. But amongst the most complicated watches in the collection was Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon, a complicated watch executed in a classical style. But the movement was constructed in an unconventional manner with most of the mechanics inverted so that the repeater gongs and hammers are visible on the dial. And the calibre also incorporates tech...
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SJX Watches
Introduced in 2005, the Breguet Tradition is characterised by its inverted movement that reveals most of the movement on the dial. It was a modern concept inspired by the 19th century: the movement was inspired by the souscription pocket watches created by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Since its launch the Tradition has grown into a full-fledged collection ranging from time-only models to the top-of-the-line tourbillon with fusee-and-chain. One of the simplest, yet most striking, is the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597, which has been given a new look with an attractive blue dial. Initial thoughts I have always found the Tradition attractive, particularly the early models with smaller case sizes that tend to work better with in traditional palettes like yellow gold or “pink-on-pink”. The newer models are more sophisticated mechanically, but their cases are larger while the colours are mostly modern in greys and blacks, so the retro-elegance is absent. But the latest Quantième Rétrograde is amongst the best looking Tradition models in the current catalogue. It’s mechanically identical to the original introduced in 2020, but now it gets a two-tone dial that has more contrast, giving it with a stronger character and easily setting it apart from the more classical Tradition models. The date indicator makes a 180 degree jump at the end of each month The blue-on-grey livery isn’t novel, since it was used before on the boutique edition Tradition 7097, a simpler watch tha...
Quill & Pad
“May I have your full attention? This is one of the most important watches ever.” As Sotheby’s auctioneer Benoît Colson opened lot 72 on May 10, 2022, the room seemed to hold its collective breath for a moment. He continued, “The personal Royal Oak of Gérald Genta – you could not dream of a better provenance for a Royal Oak, an Audemars Piguet, or even any wristwatch.” And here's how the world record price for a vintage AP Royal Oak went down from an eyewitness.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: John Karambelas is the man behind @barnfindwatches, an Instagram account that documents his watch-collecting adventures as he attempts to uncover old watches gathering dust in flea markets and thrift stores across America. Here, John shares the story of his ultimate barn find, which he randomly stumbled upon while driving through the Mojave Desert. … ContinuedThe post The ultimate Rolex barn find in the desert: “I’ve been watch-hunting for 30 years, but never found anything like this…” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
What we love: Good size for most wristsModern design and unobtrusiveGreat looking and long-lasting green and blue lume What we don’t love: Some may find embossed case back can be a little irritating on the wristLess than the standard 38hr power reserve on the AutomaticSome wearers may find the large crown tends to stick out more and can irritate the wrist/back of the hand Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.0/10 Wearability: 7.0/ 10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 After reviewing the TAG Heuer 60th Anniversary Autavia Flyback Chronograph the last week, I was eager to see how this new era of TAG translated to the newly released Aquaracer Professional 200 – a modern take on the classic Aquaracer line. Whilst the watch is in no way in the same league as the Autavia, nor should it be at the price point ($4,000 AUD for the Auto, $2,950 for the Quartz), I came away with mixed feelings about this newly released line. A New Chapter In The Story The Aquaracer story began in 1978 when Jack Heuer introduced the Heuer Reference 844. Designed for men and women who loved outdoor sports and adventures in nature – on land or in the water – the watch defined a new high-performance category of versatile wristwatches that could be relied on in extreme conditions. The Aquaracer name was added in 2004 and continued the legacy of the family’s six design codes: a unidirectional rotating bezel; a screw-down crown; water resistance to at least 200 metres; luminous markings; a...
Time+Tide
Recently, I’ve made a habit of fantasising about forever watches in my collection. It’s something I feel should exist at the core of every collector, regardless of what they collect. I find the thought of owning something for so long that it becomes synonymous with you classically romantic. Yet, I’d be remiss in not acknowledging … ContinuedThe post Six months later: Am I still in love with my Grand Seiko SBGM247? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Ricardo here again! Before I hand the mic back over to Zach for the usual Friday Wind Down programming, I quickly wanted to give a shoutout to an exciting event happening this week here in NYC. Months back, we did a “Who to Follow” feature on Jason, who was focused on building a new type … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Complecto – a watch community with diversity at the forefront appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier have established themselves as a go-to option for great watches at a mid-range luxury price, and their impressive lineup from Watches & Wonders only expands the possibilities for potential customers to fall in love. While their more heritage-focused lines such as the Classima and the Hampton received a few tasty updates, it’s … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Exploring the Baume & Mercier novelties from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Having held the fort back in Melbourne during Watches & Wonders 2022, I couldn’t help but feel just a little bit of FOMO. It would’ve been great to see the show, but the pain of missing out was eased by the sterling coverage from the rest of the team. Cheers, folks! Today, however, I want to … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Borna shares his 5 sleeper hits from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
If you attended Watches and Wonders 2022, you may have noticed the large exhibition called Time Design right near the entrance, which was organized by the cultural arm of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. If you missed the Time Design exhibition at the fair, you may now see it until May 8, 2022 in the FHH’s space at Pont de la Machine right in the center of Geneva. It is free and open to the public.
Quill & Pad
Ken Gargett recently attended a wonderful Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque dinner at the Queensland Art Gallery with focus on the Rosé. At the dinner, however, the superb Belle Époque Blanc de Blancs and also the current-release Belle Époque, the 2013, were opened for tasting. Here he shares his thoughts on these spectacular champagnes.
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Time+Tide
For the last two weeks, the watch world has been transfixed by the “new”. New watches. New collections. Even new movements. And in such times, it’s easy for a brand to fall into this desire for novelty. But that isn’t the case for the young brand Norqain. For them, doing something new for the sake … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The trimmed down Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: We have partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into the market status of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton that is rocketing in value. Today we are going to dive into how the MoonSwatch collaboration with Omega has impacted … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: How the MoonSwatch impacted Swatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Michael Clerizo sat down at Watches and Wonders 2022 to talk to the watch world at large about Scott Lenga’s just-published book, 'The Watchmakers,' the true story of how Scott's father Harry used watchmaking as a survival skill as a Jewish prisoner in a Nazi labor camp. Here we have the full discussion on video.
Quill & Pad
The watch nerd that WMMT is, he rarely immediately wears his new watches, putting them aside for a few days and letting the anticipation grow. When it finally came time to wear his new Rolex, he took it out of the box and proudly put it on his wrist. And then horror struck: he didn’t feel anything, not a thing! Zilch, nada, niente! What to do?
SJX Watches
Just after the curtain fell on Watches & Wonders 2022 – on the day after the fair closed in fact – Patek Philippe unveils one of its technical highlights for the year, the 1/10th of a Second Monopusher Chronograph ref. 5470P-001. In a first for the Geneva watchmaker, the chronograph is equipped with a high-frequency balance that beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 Hz. The high-beat movement results in a lighting seconds hand that completes one revolution around the dial every 12 seconds, allowing the chronograph to precisely record elapsed times with a resolution of 1/10ths of a second (barring user error). This lightning seconds hand runs in tandem with the regular chronograph seconds hand, resulting in an unusual sight on the dial when the chronograph is running. Initial thoughts While lightning seconds chronographs have been done before, it’s surprising to see a traditionalist brand such as Patek Philippe have a go at the complication. The function is often associated with brands with a sporty, contemporary aesthetic like TAG Heuer and Zenith. In terms of aesthetics, the ref. 5470P is another example of the brand continuing to move towards a more modern, striking style, even for otherwise classical models. But under the hood is where it shines. Despite the seemingly simple idea of tacking on an additional gear train for the 1/10th of a second hand, the movement inside underwent a deceptively complex modification. And in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the co...
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SJX Watches
Perhaps a sleeper hit of Watches & Wonders 2022, the Ulysse Nardin Freak S is an intriguing evolution of the brand’s trademark watch that makes its debut just as Ulysse Nardin has become an independent brand. The Freak S is equipped with twin balance wheels, but mounted on a central carousel as is de rigueur for a Freak. Initial thoughts The first twin-balance watch from Ulysse Nardin, the Freak S is perhaps the coolest iteration of the model since its inception in 2001. It has come a long way since the original, having been obviously enhanced in both style and performance. While its most obvious feature are the double balances, the Freak S also includes several details that enthusiasts will appreciate. For starters, it is a purebred Freak. Like the original, it does without a conventional dial, hands, and crown. In comparison, some of the more recent Freaks are more conventional in their execution. Thanks to double balances linked by a differential, the carousel is more striking than ever, while promising improved timekeeping. At the same time, the brand’s proprietary “Grinder” system means the Freak S is self-winding, eliminating the hassle of manually winding the huge mainspring via the notched back. Twin balances with a differential The overarching theme of a Freak is a movement that stands out, literally. The movement sits on three levels – carousel, barrel, and winding system, all arranged one over the other. Most of the movement, including the oscillat...
Deployant
Chopard extends their Alpine Eagle lineup with not only the first flying tourbillon, but also the first in the line with the Poinçon de Genève hallmark.
Time+Tide
It should come as no surprise that a second round of additions to Seiko’s Black Series have arrived, given the instant success of the first few watches. The series perfectly pulls off that stealthy, tactical look without sacrificing legibility or needing third-party modifications, and the four new watches are each full of character that will … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series makes a welcome return with the stealth of a ninja appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: We recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into the first generation A. Lange & Söhne Datograph watches, and whether or not they are seriously undervalued today. Today we are going to dive into … ContinuedThe post This Girard-Perregaux Laureato traded below €40k, now it’s over €100k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The words “Tissot PRX” have crossed my lips on many occasions over the past year or so since its release, mostly in the context of discussing watches that represent fantastic value. Yet despite its 40mm size and compact lug-to-lug, the non-articulating first link caused some small-wristed wearers to look for other options. But the fantastic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Five new Tissot PRX 35mm pieces get a bold new look appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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