Two Broke Watch Snobs
Christopher Ward Bel Canto Lumière Turns the Chime Into a Full-On Light Show
Christopher Ward Bel Canto Lumière combines chiming mechanics with luminous design, expanding the Bel Canto line with a bold 2025 release.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Worn & Wound
Straum and The Real Time Show Podcast Collaborate on the Jan Mayen Titanium “Stormy Seas”
Straum has teamed up with The Real Time Show, the watch podcast founded by Alon Ben Joseph and Rob Nudds back in 2022, on a new limited edition version of the brand’s popular Jan Mayen sports watch. The new Straum x TRTS Jan Mayen Titanium Stormy Seas complements other editions of the watch well in that it fits in nicely with Straum’s dedication to exploration and adventure, something the brand founders spoke about at length on our own podcast last year. The new dial variant seen here was inspired directly by an experience Rob had during the 2022 Straum Explorers Club expedition to Jan Mayen, a Norwegian volcanic island that is key to the brand’s story and the genesis for much of its design direction. The dark blue tone is meant to evoke, as the name suggests, a stormy sea. Using blue to represent the ocean on a sports watch is of course not a new concept. If anything, it’s been done to the point where it’s tough to see a blue dial and think of anything but the ocean. Usually, however, it’s done in the service of aspiration. This is an intimidating, ominous blue that would have most level headed people backing away from the ocean and heading to the shore. It communicates something about the brand that Straum would choose to embrace this particular vision of adventure. The deeply textured dial is complemented by a bright orange seconds hand, a color taken from immersion survival suits used in emergencies at sea. Applied and lume filled hour markers circle the ...
Fratello
Lighting Up The Room With The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Lumière
It’s time for a confession: I have never been smitten with the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto. While I greatly respect the watch’s impressive technical prowess and commercial success, for me, it’s more a question of style. I much prefer Christopher Ward’s modern tool watches to the traditionally styled Bel Canto. But, as if the […] Visit Lighting Up The Room With The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Lumière to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades”
Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary Les Cabinotiers offerings include a variation on a theme with the Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades”. Having been introduced several years ago, the Armillary Tourbillon is a double-axis regulator with a bi-retrograde time display. This unique iteration is dressed entirely in yellow gold, and intricately hand engraved across all of the case surfaces. Initial thoughts The Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades” channels the same celestial inspiration found on the other 270th anniversary watches into mythological storytelling, blending the brand’s signature double-axis tourbillon with sculptural engraving. Still inspired by the stars, this unique piece takes its theme from the Greek myth of the Pleiades - seven sisters transformed into stars who have guided sailors for millennia. The watch is as much about artistic expression as it is about mechanics. The heavily open-worked dial exposes much of the movement beneath, showcasing the double retrograde system for the hours and minutes. The champagne-toned bridges share the same warm hue as the Cosmica Duo, while the finishing throughout is of the highest standard. The cal. 1990 inside remains as appealing as ever, with skeletonised snail cams and beautiful swirling levers for the retrograde works, all tightly packed on the right side of the dial. The blued hands point to a numbered half-circle sector, which is useful since reading the time on this “halved” fo...
Monochrome
First Look – Nomos Goes Gold, With Precious Editions of the Tangente Neomatik and Ludwig
When you think about Nomos, besides the cool designs and youthful take on classic German watchmaking from Glashütte, you often picture a nice, relatively attainable watch in stainless steel. There are, of course, several higher-end models in the collection, such as the Lux and Lambda, and sometimes more luxurious special editions in gold, as recently […]
Monochrome
Introducing – Back in Blue, Meet the Kollokium Projekt 01 Variant G
What is Kollokium…? Well, a bit of a UFO, really. Is it a brand, a design studio, a concept that thinks out of the box, a project from a group of friends that turned out to be more successful than anticipated? A bit of everything, actually. What Kollokium is not claiming to be is a […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Czapek Time Jumper - A Flying-Saucer-Shaped Half-Hunter Watch With A Spacy Optical Effect
A decade after its revival, Czapek once again surprises with an intriguing creation - the Time Jumper. This is a modern interpretation of a 19th-century pocket watch crafted by François Czapek. The 40.5mm wristwatch with a half-hunter cover presents a fresh twist on traditional guilloché and partially conceals the new open-worked caliber 10.01. In celebration […] Visit Introducing: The Czapek Time Jumper - A Flying-Saucer-Shaped Half-Hunter Watch With A Spacy Optical Effect to read the full article.
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Charming Tribute to the Analog Life: Introducing the Xeric Omnigraph Automatic
Somewhere, in a drawer lined with yellowed graph paper and sharpened No. 2 pencils, there’s a circular slide rule waiting to be understood. It belonged to a grandfather who spent his life chasing the elegance of equations-someone who could balance a checkbook in his head and chart a rocket’s trajectory on a napkin. For the person who inherited that drawer-and the curiosity that came with it-the new Xeric Omnigraph Automatic feels less like a watch and more like a reunion. Before computers, before calculators, before “Hey Siri, what’s 38 times 72?”-there was the circular slide rule. It wasn’t just a tool; it was a visualization of thought, an instrument for those who found beauty in precision. Xeric’s Omnigraph takes that analog intelligence and transforms it into a timepiece where mathematics itself becomes the design language. The post A Charming Tribute to the Analog Life: Introducing the Xeric Omnigraph Automatic appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
The Horological Society Of New York Expands Financial Aid Programs With Donation From The Vogt Foundation
Tripling the size of HSNY's annual scholarship pool and establishing a new Independent Watchmaker Grant.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Affordable Field Watch We All Needed: Timex Expedition Field Post Solar Review
Review of the Timex Expedition Field Post Solar 36mm-a compact field watch that delivers solid specs and reliability for under $200.
Monochrome
First Look – The Czapek Time Jumper, A Double-Digit Jumping Hour Guichet Watch for the 10th Anniversary
A name with strong historical importance, François Czapek was once the business partner of a certain Antoine Norbert de Patek. However, it’s mostly since the rebirth of the brand in 2015 that the name Czapek became popular among watch enthusiasts. This year, the independent brand is celebrating the 10th anniversary of its revival by unveiling […]
Worn & Wound
Czapek Celebrates Ten Years with the All New Time Jumper
We’re heading into a big new release period as much of the watch industry descends on Geneva for the upcoming GPHG awards ceremony, and then heads to Dubai for the Dubai Watch Week festivities. There’s sure to be a ton of news made in the next two weeks as this year’s best watches receive their flowers and we get a first look at many of the new novelties that will close out the year as head into the holiday rush, and tempt us for 2026. Czapek, the Swiss indie best known for their Antarctique line of integrated bracelet sports watches, is first out of the gate among higher end independents with a new novelty just announced today. The Time Jumper is an audacious new piece made to celebrate the brand’s tenth anniversary, reaching back into Czapek’s roots before the current incarnation of the brand was incorporated, and also putting a new spin on a complication that has been all the rage this year. When I first heard that Czapek would be releasing something new and splashy to celebrate their tenth anniversary, my mind immediately began wondering “I wonder what kind of Antarctique they’ve come up with?” I should not have been so cynical, but it’s an unavoidable fact that the brand has really leaned into the popularity of the integrated bracelet sports watch platform since the first of these watches was introduced around five years ago. There have, of course, been many iterations, limited editions, and complications, and it probably would have been easy enoug...
Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: Audience Q&A; Special With Hodinkee's Editor-In-Chief James Stacey
Andy and James answer your questions on watch pricing, surging Swiss watch exports to the U.K., what to consider when buying your first 'nice watch', and what Halloween is like in Switzerland.
Quill & Pad
All Pre-Selected Watches in the 2025 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
The 2025 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) prize presentation ceremony is at 7pm (CET) Thursday the 13 of November, and you can watch the prize-giving ceremony live here on Quill & Pad. Here are all of the watches in the running for a prize, there are six watches preselected in each of the 15 categories.
Hodinkee
Auctions: Sotheby's Is Putting Some Of A. Lange & Söhne’s Rarest New Creations On The Auction Block
With many of these grails coming up for auction for the first time, this winter will be a defining moment in Lange's secondary market performance.
Fratello
Introducing: The Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V
The C1 Jump Hour Mk V marks the return of Christopher Ward’s mechanical jump-hour complication, now housed in a 39mm stainless steel case. It comes in two variants - Noon and Dawn - each available either on a steel bracelet or a leather strap. I got a chance to play with the blue Noon version […] Visit Introducing: The Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – Roger Dubuis is Back to Classic Designs, with the new Hommage La Placide Perpetual Calendar
For many years, you’ve probably known Roger Dubuis for its bold, angular watches with openworked movements and tourbillon(s), most of them under the Excalibur collection. And while most are technically very impressive, this isn’t exactly the style that Mister Dubuis defined when he created the brand in the mid-1990s. The earliest watches, known as the […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide - A 28-Piece Limited-Edition Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar
It certainly seems like 2025 is the year of anniversaries. Big names are celebrating many centuries of watchmaking, and many brands, young and old, are releasing exceptional commemorative creations. Some are intricate masterpieces that express their maker’s savoir-faire, while others represent an evolution of a historical benchmark creation. The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide is […] Visit Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide - A 28-Piece Limited-Edition Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.
Fratello
Spending Time With The New Quartet Of Nomos Tetra Origins Watches
In the words of the great Huey Lewis, “It’s hip to be square!” Just as the lyrics of this ’80s hit refer to it being cool to be conventional, the Nomos Tetra celebrates the traditional square dress watch in style. But there is a twist to both the song and the watches. As Lewis explained, […] Visit Spending Time With The New Quartet Of Nomos Tetra Origins Watches to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Review: the Debut Releases from Kiwame Tokyo
One of the most unexpected but delightful trends to emerge in watches over the last few years is the rise of the “Japanese Calatrava” style watch. Even if you haven’t heard this term thrown around, you probably know exactly the type of watch I’m talking about, as there have been several that have emerged relatively recently. The small dress watches made by Kurono Tokyo are an obvious example, and perhaps the genesis of it all. Brands like Kikuchi Nakagawa and Noaya Hida are also part of this conversation at the more luxurious end of the spectrum, and of course there are a variety of affordable watches that sit nicely in this category or are tangential to it, like Kuoe and Orient (which admittedly has been doing this for many, many years). I like this trend because it feels like a small segment of the watch world is pushing back on the dominant force in watches over the last decade: the vintage inspired sports watch. I’m no hater – I own a few vintage inspired sports watches and can appreciate the good ones, but they are so ubiquitous it’s tough to see them as anything but generic. The simple Calatrava style watches coming out of Japan are of course similarly generic, but are a welcome flip side to the sports watch coin, and I like the idea that someone entering the hobby now might find themselves down a rabbit hole of small dress watches as opposed to Submariner-style divers. I’d be very curious what that collector has in their watch box five or ten years...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Lebois & Co. Heritage Chronograph Atelier “Coquille d’œuf” with a Grand Feu Enamel Dial
Lebois & Co. was founded in 1934, and since its revival a decade ago, the independent has been steadily building a catalogue that treats vintage codes with the utmost care. The turning point was the Heritage Chronograph, a compact, community-shaped bi-compax that gave the brand a clear design language: classical proportions, crisp typography, and useful […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Julie, a Unique Edition of the World’s Smallest Mechanical Planetarium
Any watch from Christiaan van der Klaauw that carries a planetarium is, by definition, special. Since the mid-1990s, this rare and spectacular complication has been the brand’s signature feature, conceived and calculated by Mister van der Klaauw himself. Recently, the brand, now under the guidance of Pim Koeslag, presented the fantastic Grand Planetarium Eccentric, the […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The All-New Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar
One of the founding fathers of watchmaking in Glashütte, together with F.A. Lange, Moritz Grossmann also established the German School of Watchmaking. This important name returned in 2008, when trained watchmaker Christine Hutter founded a manufacture of classically German, high-end watches. For its 17th anniversary, the brand is about to release a first: a watch […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Minimalist Peren One Chronograph
If you are a fan of interesting microbrands, you have heard of Peren. We have covered several of the brand’s watches. The minimalist style of the Regia and Nero divers is recognizable and serves as an adaptable canvas to experiment with different looks. However, for his next release, founder Andy Bica decided to leave the […] Visit Introducing: The Minimalist Peren One Chronograph to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Rado True Square Automatic Open Heart Sparkling
Rado has become a byword for design-led, high-tech ceramic watches spearheaded by the Ceramica watch of 1990. Although the fully integrated case and bracelet of the Cermica were more rectangular in shape, the sleek, minimalist style passed down through the family tree and was inherited by the True Square Automatic collection, released thirty years later, […]
Worn & Wound
The New Ming 37.11 Odyssey Adds a GMT Complication to their Popular Dive Watch Form Factor
The latest from Ming is a continuation of their incredibly popular diver lineup, the current incarnation of which began with the 37.09 “Bluefin” and was later followed up with the 37.09 “Uni”. Both of those watches very effectively made use of a dual crown system (one for time setting, one for rotating an internal bezel that is not really a bezel at all), streamlined proportions, and Ming’s expertise in using sapphire and lume for both decorative and functional purposes. The new 37.11 Odyssey is an expansion of the ideas found in the Bluefin and Uni, with an added GMT feature and the option to spec the watch on the absolutely insane Polymesh bracelet. When we had our meeting with Ming earlier this year at Geneva Watch Days, this was the watch that brand founder Ming Thein was wearing on his wrist. I’ll be honest, the Polymesh bracelet kind of stole the show in that presentation, overshadowing the Odyssey just a little, but that’s simply because the Polymesh was a legitimately novel creation, while the Odyssey is something a little more familiar. That’s not a slight, of course. One of the things that makes Ming such an impressive brand is the way a clarity of design runs through each new watch they make, always in conversation with earlier pieces. That’s what helps you identify a watch as a Ming, but it can also mean that certain releases don’t create that vibrational spark of interest that really gets you excited. That said, the Odyssey is an objectiv...
Deployant
Review: The New Grand Seiko SLGW007 “Moonlit Birch”
Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 collection has been killing it recently, and quietly. In 2024, we greeted the arrival of the SLGW003 with praise. It’s bright titanium case, silvery birch bark-inspired dial, and the Evolution 9 design language (which plays hard with the concept of light and shadow) was a winning combination that left a lastingRead More
Monochrome
First Look – Dive Across Time Zones with the New MING 37.11 Odyssey
Founded by Ming Thein in 2017 and based in Kuala Lumpur, MING is a design-led indie brand with a distinctive and recognisable aesthetic built on contemporary design, where minimalism, luminescence, layering and colour are key players. MING’s first dive watch surfaced in 2019 with the 18.01 Abyss Concept prototype, leading to the regular production model […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Ming 37.11 Odyssey, A Titanium Diver GMT
A successor to the GPHG-winning 37.09 'Bluefin,' a rugged but lightweight GMT, and a perfect match for Ming's growing ecosystem.
Fratello
Introducing: The New Ming 37.11 Odyssey - With Live Photos
The day has finally arrived when I get to write about a release that I’m extremely excited about. I’ve had to keep this one under my hat for over two months, but I’m finally able to share the new Ming 37.11 Odyssey. Spoiler alert: this one is likely to have me grabbing my wallet. At […] Visit Introducing: The New Ming 37.11 Odyssey - With Live Photos to read the full article.