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Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

3,215 articles · 305 videos found · page 36 of 118

Watch Bezels: Every Type Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 22, 2025

Watch Bezels: Every Type Explained

If you’re new to your appreciation of fine watches, you have undoubtedly read a lot of references to and heard a lot of opinions about watches’ bezels. It is somewhat of an esoteric term but it describes something very simple and essential. The bezel is the front part of the case (often but not always ring-shaped) that frames the dial and secures the crystal. Bezels can be made of the same material as the case middle and/or the caseback, but can also be made of a different material. Here we run down the various types of watch bezels you’re likely to encounter. Polygons and Exposed Screws Watch cases, of course, are not uniformly round, which means that bezels, the front-facing parts of those cases, can also be found in a variety of shapes - sharply squared or rectangular, like the Cartier Tank and Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (above); softy cushion-shaped, like the Panerai Luminor and Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921; oval-shaped, like the Breguet Reine de Naples and other luxury ladies’ models; tonneau (“barrel”-shaped), like the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang and many Richard Mille models; and a host of others that combine elements of these and other polygonal shapes.  The shape that has proven to be the most popular and influential is the octagon: eight-sided bezels have proliferated ever since Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak (above) in 1972, and watchmakers have also dabbled in other unconventional shapes: the sharply faceted bezel of the Zeni...

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Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs Fratello
Sep 22, 2025

Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs

Many modern chronographs strive to strike a balance between vintage appeal and modern build quality. Few of those efforts result in a package as appealing as the Hanhart 415 ES Panda chronographs. These models revisit a 1960s design while delivering features expected in a contemporary tool watch. I had the chance to go hands-on with […] Visit Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs to read the full article.

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Watches, Stories, and Gear: Ahead Of Time, The Pursuit Pro, and Stroup Hobby Shop Worn & Wound
Ressence Ressence has partnered Sep 20, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Ahead Of Time, The Pursuit Pro, and Stroup Hobby Shop

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Ahead Of Time: Celebrating 15 Years of Ressence Ressence has partnered with the Belgian publishing house Luster on Ahead of Time, a new book released to celebrate the independent watch brand’s 15 year anniversary. This, however, is not a typical watch book (which we’d never expect from Ressence, anyway). Ahead of Time is billed as an exploration of what the future will look like, and features interviews with 20 leading voices in design and technology. Among the participants are OpenAI CEO Sam Altman, Airbnb co-founder Joe Gebbia, and Kering CEO Luca de Meo. The new book is available now through the Ressence website, and sells for $35.   Stroup Hobby Shop In a recent New York Times article, Michael Venutolo-Mantovani pulls back the curtain on the operation, showing just what makes the Stroup Hobby Shop tick. Originally founded by H.M. Stroup in 1949, the Stroup Hobby Shop began as a retirement hobby that would become the foundation for four generations of master clockmakers. Working alongside his grandfather, father, and brother, Luther joined the shop part time in 1972, before turning the family hobby into a business the following year. Over the last 76 years, nea...

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Fortis Introduces the Stratoliner S-41 Reentry Edition, with a Heat Treated Titanium Dial Worn & Wound
Fortis Introduces Sep 19, 2025

Fortis Introduces the Stratoliner S-41 Reentry Edition, with a Heat Treated Titanium Dial

Space, fire, time. These things are elemental, conduits to deep discussions about our place in the universe, and the nature of life itself. What does it all mean? It’s the stuff of 3:00 AM dorm room deep dives, the kinds of conversations that happen after watching 2001 for the first time. Every so often, a piece of art, or an object (or even a watch!) scratches at these ideas. That’s what I started to ponder, anyway, when I first read about the new Fortis Stratoliner S-41 Reentry Edition, a striking new version of their spacefaring chronograph with a unique (literally) dial with one of the more interesting concepts behind it that I’ve seen this year.  The highlight here, as you can likely derive from the images, is the dial that has been heat treated by hand. The inspiration comes from spacecraft reentering the earth’s atmosphere. This happens at an incredibly high rate of speed – roughly 15,000 miles per hour. At that velocity, the friction caused by the spacecraft as it comes in contact with the atmosphere essentially turns said spacecraft into a small, fast moving, fireball. Have you seen Apollo 13? Then you know basically how this works. A heat shield designed to control that burn keeps astronauts on board safe, and the critical structure of the spacecraft intact.  According to Fortis, every Reentry Edition dial is heat treated by hand and completely unique, thanks to the unpredictable nature of the impact of fire on the titanium surface. The heat produces ...

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Pedals and Precision: Tudor Pro Cycling at the Grand Prix Cycliste de Québec Worn & Wound
Tudor Pro Cycling Sep 18, 2025

Pedals and Precision: Tudor Pro Cycling at the Grand Prix Cycliste de Québec

Québec City carries its history on every corner-stone walls, cobblestones, cafés spilling into narrow streets. For a few days in September, it also carried the buzz of race bikes and the weight of a UCI WorldTour peloton. Tudor brought us here to see their Pro Cycling team take on the Grand Prix Cycliste de Québec. The race is unusual compared to most on the calendar. Instead of rolling through countryside, the riders loop through Old Québec, climbing and descending the same punishing circuit until it breaks them. Crowds lean over barricades, the sound of cheers bouncing off limestone walls as the peloton flashes past again and again. Our trip began with a chance to meet the Tudor Pro Cycling riders. They rolled in straight from training, relaxed but sharp, already thinking about the course. Later, in the subterranean car park beneath Hotel 71, we were shown the workshop: rows of bikes worth thousands apiece, mechanics tuning, polishing, preparing. A hidden paddock carved out of concrete, the quiet backbone of the sport. Dinner that evening was with Tudor and a handful of other journalists at Laurie Raphaël. It was polished dining, but the conversation stayed grounded-how a team operates at this level, what it means to link a watch brand with a sport that demands grit and repetition. FXD watches at the table looked at home: tough, precise, made for use. Race day carried a nervous hum. The morning was cool, the sun cutting through by midday. From Tudor’s hospital...

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This Isn’t Just Another Octo – This is Art for the Wrist Worn & Wound
Bulgari s Octo Finissimo line Sep 18, 2025

This Isn’t Just Another Octo – This is Art for the Wrist

Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line has become synonymous with its technical prowess and record-breaking, ultra-thin designs (and for good reason). The collection has notched a whopping ten world records in just over a decade. However, we’ve also seen a softer side to the Octo through Bulgari’s more artistic interpretations of the iconic design.  The most well-known are likely the sketch editions. As the name suggests, these models celebrate the original sketches of the design rendered by the brand’s Product Creation Executive Director, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. Yet, these more playful and aesthetic-focused editions have also been molded through collaborations with a wide array of co-creators from architects like Kazuyo Sejima and Tadao Ando to conductors and composers like Lorenzo Viotti.  Among the Bulgari Octo mashups, the most striking have come from artists themselves. One of the earliest editions came back in 2015 with the Chinese artist Simon Ma. His collection of 13 piece unique watches explored the horse motif of the Chinese zodiac using traditional Chinese calligraphy techniques handpainted on the dial. Three years later, Bulgari enlisted the Japanese painter Hiroshi Senju to interpret a watch with his signature exploration of waterfalls. The resulting design employed mother of pearl on the dial to create a waterfall effect. Next, the Roman Maison took a more contemporary approach, tapping the Japanese artist Tatsuo Miyajima. This collaboration took a le...

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Frederique Constant Updates the Classics Premiere Line with New Dials and a New Bracelet Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Updates Sep 18, 2025

Frederique Constant Updates the Classics Premiere Line with New Dials and a New Bracelet

In some ways, Frederique Constant remains an outlier in a market that thrives on hype. Traditionally, the Swiss brand has built somewhat of a reputation as being a tortoise – slow and steady, releasing classic styles – versus the hares who seemed more concerned about virality than crafting a timeless piece. Because of this, even the smallest changes to their collections can raise the proverbial eyebrow and gain a little attention. Case in point: the newest in their Classics Premiere line-up. During Geneva Watch Days, it was a series of small adjustments that caught our attention. Most notably, the release of two new colors (blue and salmon – previously only a EU exclusive), the Art Deco-inspired Arabic numerals, and the release of a new steel bracelet. Each of these small components ultimately make an otherwise standard watch within the Frederique Constant line-up feel a little refreshed among its peers. For those unfamiliar with the Classics Premiere collection, it’s a smaller series, coming in at just 38.5mm (or a “delicate” size, as Frederique Constant’s marketing team puts it – isn’t that cute?). Within that petit (or would it be klein? I never know in Switzerland) stainless steel case houses a FC-301 automatic caliber (base LJPG100), giving the wearer an impressive 68-hour power reserve.  Regarding the design of this particular pair, the new use of Breguet style numerals complements the overall vintage charm of the Classics Premiere. This is further...

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The Rock Watch is Back, and We Smell What Tissot is Cooking Worn & Wound
Tissot Sep 17, 2025

The Rock Watch is Back, and We Smell What Tissot is Cooking

Stone dials, as we’re all aware, have been having a moment over these last couple of years. Time, I suppose, will tell if the prevalence of stone dials across more affordable price ranges is a trend, or just a new part of the watch landscape that we’ll all just accept and live with, like green dials, or carbon cases. With the renewed popularity of this inherently 1970s/80s inspired design cue, it was really only a matter of time before we saw the return of a watch that takes the use of stone to a different level entirely. The Tissot Rock Watch, an artifact of the 1980s if ever there was one, is back, albeit in a limited edition that might be tough to acquire depending on your geography (more on that in a bit).  First, a little background on the Rock Watch. Launched in 1985, Tissot claims that the Rock Watch was the first ever watch with a case and dial made entirely from granite procured from the Swiss Alps. I’ll admit here that I haven’t done a ton of scholarly research on the topic, but I’m willing to take Tissot at face value here simply because granite is a particularly difficult material to work with, requiring highly specific machines and tooling. It’s a watch that doesn’t make a ton of practical sense from a production standpoint, but naturally was quite popular in the mid 80s and eventually spawned an entire collection for Tissot that featured a huge variety of exotic stones. Original Rock Watches from the 1980s The new version of the Rock Watch rema...

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Introducing – The New Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton 40mm in Empire Green Monochrome
Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton 40mm Sep 17, 2025

Introducing – The New Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton 40mm in Empire Green

The Jazzmaster collection, and specifically the Skeleton editions, has earned its place as one of Hamilton‘s distinctive designs, offering a view into the beating heart of a modern automatic movement. It’s a design that balances Hamilton’s classic dress-watch DNA with a contemporary twist. Over the years, the model has appeared in several dial colours, case […]

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Introducing – Hamilton Expands the Khaki Aviation X-Wind Collection with Fresh Colours Monochrome
Hamilton Expands Sep 16, 2025

Introducing – Hamilton Expands the Khaki Aviation X-Wind Collection with Fresh Colours

Hamilton has always had deep ties to aviation. From synchronising the first U.S. airmail flights in the 1910s to timing pilots through WWI and WWII, and the jet age, the brand’s Khaki Aviation collection continues this legacy with watches designed for professionals and enthusiasts. The Khaki Aviation X-Wind was developed in 2005 with aerobatic champion […]

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In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin’s La Quête Du Temps is an Astronomical Clock in Every Sense SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s La Quête Du Sep 16, 2025

In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin’s La Quête Du Temps is an Astronomical Clock in Every Sense

Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary tour de force continues with the La Quête Du Temps ‘Mecanique D’art’, a metre-tall astronomical clock, automata, and decorative object. While the brand teased us with the most complicated wristwatch ever made earlier this year, it’s been planning something much, much grander – a true monument to time. Initial thoughts I see La Quête Du Temps as part of a near millennia old tradition of astronomical clocks and mechanical follies. During the very late 12th century, an Artuqid king commissioned an exceptional astronomical water clock from famed Islamic inventor Ismail al-Jazari. Al-Jazari’s “castle clock” kept time, but only as an ancillary function. The clock tracked the passage of the sun, the passage and phase of the moon and the zodiacs, and on the sixth, ninth and twelfth hours a cast of five life-sized automata sprung to life, playing drums and trumpets to dazzle the royal court. Other kings commissioned similar astronomical clocks from inventor in their courts, as symbols of their power and sophistication. If not kings, it was congregations and city councils raising these models of the heavens on Earth as symbols of prosperity and prestige. And today, Vacheron Constantin, the oldest watch manufacturer, builds one for itself. The Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch yet made, was not the brand’s 270th anniversary flagship – this is. Image – Vacheron Constantin/Stephane Sby Balmy This year has been mor...

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Vacheron Constantin Impresses with the Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Impresses Sep 16, 2025

Vacheron Constantin Impresses with the Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time

It seems like no brand is having as much fun in 2025 as Vacheron Constantin (VC), which has delivered several consecutive hits to mark its 270th anniversary. The latest is the Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time, a double-sided wristwatch with a bi-retrograde time display that all but cements the brand’s status as the industry leader in astronomical complications. The Tribute to the Quest of Time, limited to 20 pieces in white gold, debuts alongside its muse, the La Quête du Temps astronomical clock, and features a miniaturised and simplified version of the clock’s magnificent astronomer automaton. Initial thoughts Following on the heals of the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication and Tribute to the Celestial, the Tribute to the Quest of Time continues VC’s winning streak in spectacular fashion. While the Solaria impressed with rare scientific complications, like declination of the Sun, the Tribute to the Celestial focused its attention on the culture of astrology, brought to life with skilful gem-setting and creative use of a straight-line engine. In contrast, the Tribute to the Quest of Time takes a more humanistic approach, focusing on the romance of mankind’s quest to understand our place in the universe, using a mix of traditional complications and modern decorative techniques. Despite the functional differences between these watches, there’s a clear commonality between them; each watch, in its own way, reflects its creators’ reverence for the cosmo...

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Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 15, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel

The most recent launch from A. Lange & Söhne was surprising, even while being familiar. The 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel is, well, an 1815 Tourbillon with a black enamel dial. Nothing about the watch is unexpected, since all the elements have been employed elsewhere. But the watch is outstanding in quality, as is expected for a Lange, and strikingly and usually beautiful. Moreover, it is priced reasonably well, as such things go. Initial thoughts Cosmetic variations of an existing model are rarely great, but the new 1815 Tourbillon manages to be that. The original 1815 Tourbillon was fundamentally a good watch – well made and  functionally designed – but a little plain. The latest variation is outstanding. It’s just as well made, but the black enamel dial adds oomph. No risks were taken with the aesthetics; it is exactly the same in terms of design, but now in glossy black enamel. The tourbillon also hacks and includes a zero-reset seconds Perhaps most unexpected is the price. Many recent Lange releases often felt too expensive, this breaks the habit. At just under US$220,000, the 1815 Tourbillon is priced fairly, maybe even competitively, in its segment. In this respect, the 1815 Tourbillon reminds me of the Tribute to Celestial, an equally surprisingly well priced watch by Lange’s sister company Vacheron Constantin. And for the lucky, lucky few, Lange bestowed a baguette diamond bezel on a handful of these tourbillons, which raises the price by only about US$7...

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Introducing – The new Credor Goldfeather GBBY969 and GBBY971 with Enamel Dials Monochrome
Grand Seiko Sep 15, 2025

Introducing – The new Credor Goldfeather GBBY969 and GBBY971 with Enamel Dials

While Grand Seiko is now well-established all around the world as the higher-end brand of the Seiko Watch Corporation, Credor remains far more niche and has just begun its global expansion, primarily with the Locomotive collection, based on a vintage watch once designed by Gérald Genta. Credor, another high-end brandwithin the group, employs a more classic approach with watches […]

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Introducing – British Indie Brand Farer is Back with the Three Hand Series III Monochrome
Farer Sep 15, 2025

Introducing – British Indie Brand Farer is Back with the Three Hand Series III

Farer, a British indie brand, debuted in 2015 with watches designed in London and produced in Switzerland. With an extensive portfolio ranging from characterful three-handers to GMTs, as well as chronographs, integrated sports watches, and compressor-style dive watches, the brand’s keen eye for design is paying off. Coupled with its direct-to-consumer business model, which eliminates intermediaries, prices […]

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Watches, Stories, and Gear: Moriarty Watches, Beachmaster Quartz, Borderlands 4, and Moleskine’s new collection Worn & Wound
Sep 13, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Moriarty Watches, Beachmaster Quartz, Borderlands 4, and Moleskine’s new collection

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear.   Moriarty Watches Hailing from southwestern Ireland, Moriarty Watches is turning up the heat, literally. “Maybe it was a complete bout of madness diving into this crazy rabbit hole at the age of 44 and trying to get my little dream to become a reality,” said Allison in a recent New York Times article. After receiving an unfortunate diagnosis at 35, Allison began repairing watches from her home workshop, but found herself “obsessed” with Patek Phillipe Enamel dials. From designing the case, crown, and hands, hand regulating each movement in house, and creating each dial, Allison ensures each watch is “99.99 percent” perfect before it leaves her shop. Crafted by either “dry sift” or “wet pack” each dial can take up to 40 hours to complete, with “lots of room for things to go wrong”. More details on Allison’s watches and a full interview is currently available on the New York Times’ website.   Expanding the Beachmaster Quartz Collection British watchmaker Elliot Brown Watches has announced its newest expansion to the Beachmaster Quartz family, adding two new dial options for the model. “From D-Day inspiration to daily use, the Beachmaster ...

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Berneron Complicates Things with the Quantième Annuel (Live Pics) Worn & Wound
Berneron Sep 12, 2025

Berneron Complicates Things with the Quantième Annuel (Live Pics)

The inaugural watch by haute Swiss independent Berneron, the Mirage 38, had a markedly poetic design. With a free-flowing case shape, twisting hands, and a distorted dial, it would be easy to consider it as a design of pure aesthetics. Looks deceived, however, as the form was driven by a movement concept that rejected the standard circular shape, allowing for a large barrel, and thus a 72-hour power reserve in a small and thin body. Nevertheless, the outcome was undoubtedly one of whimsy, where evocative design outweighed pure function, if there was a clever horological backing. Often, brands, especially young ones, stick to a theme to carve a niche for themselves within a crowded industry, but that’s not the approach of Berneron. For the brand’s second model, announced just before Geneva Watch Days, whimsy is nowhere in sight. Instead, the brand made a sharp turn into practicality and legibility, if through a decidedly haute lens. Titled the Quantième Annuel, it has a design that verges on the traditional, especially compared to the Mirage. The first model within their “quantième” collection, which will house their complicated pieces, the QA is an annual calendar jump hour with a design driven by logic in terms of how it is read, the movement architecture, and how it is set. The flow of the dial is meant to be top to bottom, left to right. Following that order, time is read hour, minute, second, and the day, date, and month. The hour is digital, as it is a jump ...

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[VIDEO] Recapping the Paulin Mara Dive Watch Showroom Launch Event with Jason Heaton Worn & Wound
Sep 11, 2025

[VIDEO] Recapping the Paulin Mara Dive Watch Showroom Launch Event with Jason Heaton

Most recently, in our ongoing series of events at the Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn Showroom, we partnered with Paulin to celebrate the launch of their first dive watch: the Mara. The Scottish brand’s latest release is a rugged, spec-heavy timepiece built for daily adventures and more demanding expeditions. Paulin chose our showroom for its laid-back atmosphere, reputation within the NYC watch community, and its ability to host both hands-on watch time and intimate Q&As;-an opportunity they fully embraced. The evening began with the public unveiling of the Mara, a 300-meter diver in stainless steel measuring 39.7mm across. Its robust case features lugs that angle inward for a distinctive stance, while the playful, geometric hour markers give the dial a unique personality. The Mara comes in blue or black, each paired with a domed sapphire bezel-bright blue for the former, a ghostly grey for the latter. Both drew plenty of admiration from attendees. The room was set with imagery from Scotland’s beaches, Land Rovers, and underwater scenes, complemented by a Bruichladdich whisky tasting station. Guests mingled with Paulin designer Katie Muir and Jason Heaton-diver, journalist, podcaster (The Grey NATO), author (The Tusker Novels), and Explorers Club member-who had field-tested the Mara on Scotland’s rugged shores and starred in the watch’s launch campaign. After plenty of whisky and watch talk, Jason sat down with Worn & Wound’s Head of Partnerships, Kyle Sna...

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Which Wrist Do Ladies Wear Watches On? Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 11, 2025

Which Wrist Do Ladies Wear Watches On?

I don’t think it's any secret that, statistically speaking, our audience leans more towards men. But if you couldn’t already tell by a quick glance at my author photo, I am, in fact, a girl. Thus, today’s article is in part inspired by a desire to add a bit more of a feminine touch to the content we typically do, and in part to answer to a growing number of questions (such as "which wrist do ladies wear watches on?") the team and I have been getting relating to first steps towards starting a watch collection from the girls out there – either asked by the ladies themselves, or from partners and family members trying to induct their loved ones into the cult of watches.  Below, I’ll break down some common questions aimed at those just dipping their toes into the watch-collecting hobby, and share some personal musings and philosophies I approach when building a collection, as a young(ish), scrappy girl in the industry myself. I’ve also had some of the lovely ladies from the Teddy team share wristshots from their own collection for added color, flavor, and fun!  So, where do I start? Beginnings are exciting, but they can also come with some unexpected terror as you come face-to-face with the unknown. As with any new hobby or learning something new, the initial confrontation with all the information is bound to be somewhat (or very) overwhelming. Personally, when I first began dipping my toes into watches, I experienced something akin to vertigo, teetering on the e...

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What is a GMT Watch? Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 11, 2025

What is a GMT Watch?

GMT watches, and other types of watches with useful complications for travelers, are enjoying a surge of popularity these days, with watchmakers large and small stepping up to produce travel watches with both user-friendly mechanics and attractive design, at a variety of price points. Yet, if you’re new to the watch game, you still might be a bit curious about what is a GMT watch, how to read and set them, and how one style differs from another. In this feature, we attempt to address all the pertinent questions you may want answered before purchasing a GMT or any style of watch with the ability to show multiple time zones. What is a GMT watch? GMT is the abbreviation for “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London. Established in 1884 at the International Meridian Conference, the Prime Meridian was conceived as a straight line running from the North Pole to the South Pole directly through Greenwich, serving as the point of zero degrees longitude from which 24 separate time zones divide the Earth: the Eastern Time Zone of the United States, for example, is designated as GMT -5 (i.e., five hours west of Greenwich, which is GMT 0). A GMT watch is essentially a timekeeper designed in that same utilitarian spirit, allowing its wearer to read the time in at least two time zones simultaneously. Many such watches actually use the initials “GMT” in their model names, whi...

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DOXA Expands the SUB 750T Collection Worn & Wound
Doxa Expands Sep 11, 2025

DOXA Expands the SUB 750T Collection

Last week, DOXA unveiled an update to one of their most popular references – the SUB 750T. First introduced in 2002, the 750T was conceived as a diver’s companion with oversized proportions, professional-level depth rating, and (due to its large size) a real presence on the wrist. Nearly two decades later, the newest iteration of the SUB 750T arrives with a familiar profile, but maybe a bit more pared down – and upgraded – than its predecessor. Like I said, this is a big watch. Clocking in at 45mm across and 47mm lug-to-lug, this isn’t a watch that’s going to be demurely tucked under your shirt sleeve. Even so, DOXA has counterbalanced the size by reducing the model to just under 12mm in height. In contrast, the original reference clocked in at 14mm; and while you may not think that the 2mm differential would be noticeable–trust us, it is. That reduction takes away some of the added bulk that makes such a large watch just feel overwhelming and makes the DOXA SUB 750T that much more wearable.  It’s not just the case size which has been improved, DOXA added eight colorways (Professional Orange, Sharkhunter Black, Whitepearl White, Searambler Silver Grey, Caribbean Navy Blue, Divingstar Yellow, Aquamarine Turquoise, and the new Sea Emerald Dark Green) to this particular model. Each is available on either a rubber strap color-matched to the dial or the brand’s classic beads of rice bracelet, making for 16 total options to choose from.  On the technical side...

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Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Frederique Constant Sep 11, 2025

Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet? (Hands-On)

As Raymond Weil comes out of their shell, so do more incredible timepieces. But have they hit a new peak with the Freelancer Complete Calendar? Let’s find out! What We Love: An elegant and versatile design Quality-of-life upgrades to a classic complication Excellent value proposition with few competitors What We Don’t: Movement finishing somewhat lacklustre Calendar is hard to see from a distance Do we need the lume? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 There’s a rapid surge happening in watchmaking right now. No, I’m not talking about the newly imposed 39% U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches (though that’s a story in itself), but rather the quiet re-emergence of the middle market. As household names climb further upmarket, a new wave of brands are pushing harder than ever, flexing their creative and horological muscles to prove what they’re truly capable of. Christopher Ward is one; Frederique Constant and Maurice Lacroix are others. But perhaps the most impressive contender in this power shift is none other than Raymond Weil. Nearly 50 years young, the family-owned independent has been quietly racking up achievements and accolades. Their breakout moment came with the GPHG-winning Millésime collection, followed by ambitious world timers and flyback chronographs — complications that once felt far beyond the brand’s reach. And at Watches & Wonders Geneva this year, Raymond Weil unveiled perhaps its most...

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