Revolution
Christian Selmoni & Vacheron Constantin’s La Musique du Temps
Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers department introduces a complete line up of one-off creations as part of their 2019 La Musique du Temps collection
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Three-link semi-circular Rolex bracelet introduced for the 1956 Day-Date; Crownclasp closure.
1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.
Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers department introduces a complete line up of one-off creations as part of their 2019 La Musique du Temps collection
Quill & Pad
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic WT is a watch designed to fill a need, specifically a need to have a Polaris model that focuses on travel as the main function. The home time dial allows for a true visual understanding of times in multiple places around the world. Joshua Munchow fills us in!
SJX Watches
As has become tradition, a good part of Phillips’ upcoming New York watch auction is a memorabilia sale of sorts, including watches owned by Marlon Brando, golfer Jack Nicklaus, and astronaut John Glenn, as well as the Urwerk worn by Robert Downey Jr. while playing Iron Man in Avengers: Endgame. The auction also includes a piece of historical horological memorabilia: an F.P. Journe Octa Réserve de Marche prototype. The prototype is largely identical to the later, serially produced version of the watch – the case is platinum and the dial, yellow gold – but is marked as a prototype on the case back, and also bears the various traits unique to early watches made by Francois-Paul Journe. The cal. 1300 Launched in 2002 and discontinued in 2014, the Octa Réserve de Marche was the brand’s first entry-level wristwatch, powered by an automatic movement, the cal. 1300. Originally conceived to have an eight-day power reserve – hence “Octa” – the movement instead has a power reserve of 120 hours, or about five days. Reputedly constructed with a gear train borrowed from a robust and well-known hand-wind movement plus an extra-large mainspring, the cal. 1300 was the base calibre for the entire Octa line. Although a variety of complications were added on top, ranging from the Octa Chronograph to the annual calendar of the Octa Calendrier, all versions of the movement had identical height of 5.7mm regardless of function. The slimness and smart construction did come at th...
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers department introduces a complete line up of one-off creations as part of their 2019 La Musique du Temps collection
Revolution
Cortina and Carrera make a catchy combo; we also like the racy orange highlights on the TAG Heuer Carrera H02T Cortina Edition
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SJX Watches
Shaped like an extraterrestrial seashell, the De Bethune Dream Watch 5 (DW5) is the brand’s most striking timepiece. It’s simple in function – showing just the time and moon phase – but more of a time-telling object than a mere watch. The new Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia is the opposite of the sleek, smooth finish of the original Dream Watch. The rose gold case is fully engraved with a motif from Les Cités obscures, or The Obscure Cities, a series of graphic novels by Belgian duo François Schuiten and Benoît Peeters. Specifically, the engraving depicts Armilia, an underground city of the novels that’s shaped like an armillary sphere. François Schuiten’s original drawing of Armilia Responsible for the engraving is Michele Rothen Rebetez, a freelance engraver based in Le Locle who has worked with De Bethune for several years, most recently on the Maestri Art I and II. Instead of the deeper, relief engraving that Ms Rothen Rebetez typically uses for watches, the DW5 Armilia is finished with banknote style engraving, made up of numerous fine, shallow lines to create depth and shadow. The DW5 is produced in two sizes, and the DW5 Armilia is in the larger, 58mm size. Mechanically, it is identical to the standard DW5, with the time indicated in a narrow window, along with the spherical moon phase display, both framed in blued titanium. The cal is 18k rose gold, while the crown is topped with a 1-carat blue sapphire. Key facts and price Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia R...
SJX Watches
The collaboration between Urwerk and De Bethune for the upcoming Only Watch is pretty straightforward: an Urwerk wandering hours time display module mounted on a De Bethune base movement, and housed in a De Bethune case. But it works, and the Moon Satellite is one of the coolest watches of the charity auction. Conceptually the Moon Satellite is similar to the Arpal One made for the last Only Watch. Long and sleek, the Arpal One was a collaboration between Urwerk and Laurent Ferrier that looked good, but with an enormous case – it was 60.8m long – that was much too large. The Moon Satellite, on the other hand, is just right. That’s because the case is derived from De Bethune DB28, which is a large watch but one with a smallish footprint and sprung, pivoted lugs that allow it to hug the wrist. The Moon Satellite is slightly larger than a DB28, but almost the same on the wrist. Entirely in mirror polished titanium, the case looks like a helmet for a warrior robot. Its shape is asymmetric – angular on the lower half and rounded at the top – in order to accommodate the time display. It’s reminiscent of a helmet, but instantly recognisable as coming from Urwerk, having the U-shaped crystal first found on the Urwerk UR-103 and now on the UR-105. Coincidentally, both Urwerk and De Bethune position the crowns on most of their watches at 12 o’clock, and so there it is. Though it has a similar shape to the standard Urwerk crown, the Moon Satellite crown is flat, so tha...
Deployant
TAG Heuer announces a one of a kind Monaco Piece d'Art - a restored and redecorated version of an original 1969 model of the iconic caliber 11.
SJX Watches
Even amongst avant-garde watchmakers, De Bethune stands out for its substance – aesthetic and material innovation matched by technical ingenuity. At its core, the brand has reimagined the most fundamental aspects of mechanical timekeeping, from the barrel to the hairspring, while pushing the boundaries of traditional complications, be it the moon phase, tourbillon or chronograph. But arguably its most distinctive innovation is an aesthetic one, which has come to define the brand no less – heat-blued titanium. The brand has used the alloy for more than 15 years across various parts of the watch, even making almost a whole watch out of it. But now De Bethune has a twist on the theme, resulting in the DB28 Yellow Tones in brilliant golden titanium. Fiery yellow Though the colour of the new DB28 is striking, it is by no means loud, as the amber shade of yellow isn’t the same as yellow gold and doesn’t pass off as such. In fact, it looks more like fresh brass than gold. The colour was achieved through thermal oxidisation of the surface, essentially the same process as that used for blued titanium (and also the same for blued steel). The yellow surface, just like the blue, is the result of an oxide that forms on the surface of titanium when it is heated to a certain temperature. But amber yellow tone in this case was created by heating it at a lower temperature than used for blued titanium. Titanium undergoes different stages of oxidation when heated, and yellow is o...
Deployant
De Bethune brings back this revolutionary chronograph designed in 2006. The watch is uses the monopusher concept but pushes it farther by having all counters displayed centrally
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SJX Watches
When Urwerk cofounder Felix Baumgartner was in town recently to launch the UR-100 SpaceTime, I quizzed him on the De Bethune and Urwerk collaboration for Only Watch 2019. While the other brands taking part in the charity auction had already unveiled photos or renderings of their respective creations, Urwerk and De Bethune only offered a pen drawing. Felix replied that the movement had been completed and delivered to De Bethune some weeks ago, and Denis Flageollet, De Bethune’s resident technical genius, was working on building the one-off titanium case. And now Mr Flageollet has completed the watch, and this is it. The initial drawing The meeting of minds Named the Moon Satellite, the watch is essentially an Urwerk wandering hours time display module – with the time indicated on satellites – mounted on top of a hand-wound De Bethune movement, resulting in the cal. DBUR2105. Visually the movement is trademark De Bethune. The calibre has a delta-shaped barrel bridge that is entirely mirror polished, as is the base plate, one of the most distinctive movement treatments of De Bethune. And in striking contrast against the polished surfaces, the balance and shock absorber bridges are in blued steel. The base movement cal. DB2105 boasts several of De Bethune’s patented innovations, including a spider-like titanium balance wheel, the triple pare-chute shock absorber for the balance, as well as the De Bethune hairspring and silicon escape wheel. And it also incorporat...
Revolution
Nomos creates not one, not two but four timepieces to mark The Hour Glass’ 40th Anniversary with unique Chinese oracle bone script and Hindu-Arabic hour markers.
Revolution
The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de vache 1955 drives some collectors mad with lust; the latest steel version is no respite.
SJX Watches
De Bethune is the latest amongst a number of watchmakers to take the covers off a commemorative edition to mark the 40th anniversary of Singapore watch retail powerhouse The Hour Glass. For the occasion, De Bethune has put together a variant of its signature DB28 with sprung lugs that’s entirely clad in brilliant, blued titanium. First unveiled in polished titanium in 2018, the Steel Wheels is essentially a DB28 wearing a little less. A partially open-worked dial – which is actually the delta-shaped barrel bridge – reveals its pair of skeletonised barrels and gears. While the original Steel Wheels captures the essence of De Bethune, combining its trademark design with the brand’s fundamental technical innovations, it was lacking a generous dose of blued titanium, a gorgeous, heat-treated alloy that is synonymous with the brand. Colour consistency That has now been rectified with the DB28 Steel Wheels Blue, arguably the purest – and bluest – distillation of the brand’s core values and technical achievements. It features an intense, mirror-polished, blued titanium case and dial that form a striking contrast against the exposed inner mechanics. Though blued titanium is also used by other brands today, De Bethune was amongst the first to mirror-polish its titanium cases and more crucially, started using heat treatment to blue titanium way back in 2006. An example of an early De Bethune using blued titanium, a DB25L from 2010 with a blued dial...
Deployant
In this 1-on-1, we compare the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph and the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955.
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Deployant
The Citizen Promaster Skyhawk A-T Blue Angel is a pilot’s radio controlled watch in collaboration with the US Navy's Blue Angels. Precision meets precision.
Deployant
Hands on detailed review of the De Bethune DB28 GB Grand Bleu. A diving watch rated to 105m inspired by the movie Grand Bleu where the hero dives to 105m.
Deployant
Hands on analytical review in detail: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms "Nageurs de combat", with high resolution photographs and technical details.
Revolution
Bremont, loudly blowing the horn for a resurgence of Britain’s once-great watch industry, has launched a watch that celebrates the ferocious Jaguar D-Type.
Deployant
TAG Heuer introduces the new Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon, an all black tourbillon chronograph with sporty yellow accents. TAG Heuer scientists have developed a carbon composite hairspring.
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Deployant
Chopard presents a new watch regulated by a flying tourbillon as well as being automatic, a double first for the brand. Enter the L.U.C Flying T Twin.
Revolution
The Cabinet No.4 comes from the ultra-exclusive Tradition d’Excellence collection meant to showcase Audemars Piguet’s watchmaking skill and spirit.
Deployant
Special edition of Watchscapes to help you with the exact hue of the "salmon" dials of the new Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Chronograph, Salmon Series.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Anxious about reference numbers? Confused by Spring Drive? You’re not alone. But don’t worry, we’ve got your back. Here’s a handy video guide to explain the ins and outs of Grand Seiko … I’m sure everyone reading this has, at some point, felt that feeling of utter bewilderment of being in a conversation about … ContinuedThe post 10 things you’ve always wanted to know about Grand Seiko, but were too afraid to ask … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
I don’t know about you, but when the price point of a timepiece starts to creep beyond the realms of the everyday, things like price points start to get a little abstract. And, let’s be real here - for most people (though perhaps not most people reading this), watches with a sticker price north of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Our top 3 watches of Basel 2019 from $35,000 and up – featuring Patek, De Bethune and Hublot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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