Revolution
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Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN - THE GREEN EDITION: St Pat’s Day, Audemars Piguet, Olive dials and Dublin contributor joins the team!
Sometimes when I sit down on a Friday afternoon with a beverage of some description (today, an ‘Almond Negroni’ my colleague Matt claims he invented) to write the Friday Wind Down, I need to pause for a moment to consider the theme of the week. Not this week. This week, everywhere I look, it’s green, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN – THE GREEN EDITION: St Pat’s Day, Audemars Piguet, Olive dials and Dublin contributor joins the team! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Sinn’s Submarine-Steel Dive Watch Gets a Patina Dial
Known for its utilitarian “tool” watches, Sinn’s latest is a variation on its bestselling dive watch. The U1 DS is a limited-edition rendition of the brand’s dive watch that’s best known for having a case made from the same steel alloy as German navy submarines. Limited to 500 pieces, the U1 DS features a dial that has been lapped to achieve a seemingly worn-out finish, whilst retaining the famed robustness that characterises the U1. The combination is a juxtaposition of an aged dial and a case that will likely never show any wear. Initial thoughts The U1 DS is a clear winner in my books. The dial’s battle-scarred look suits the submarine-inspired genesis of the U1, which has long had a military feel, despite not being a military-issue watch (though Sinn did made a special edition for a special-forces unit of the German military). Despite the new finish, the U1 retains its trademark legibility. The randomly-scratched texture does not detract from readability or the distinctive U1 dial design. Its signature block-shaped hands and hour markers remain prominent. Though it’s an uncommon look, Sinn has been using this randomly-textured finish frequently of late. The finish was first used in 2019 on the 356 Fliegerchronograph for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, and then last year on the EZM3.F.V. that was only sold in Japan. The patina finish remains rare, but not quite as rare as it seems to be. The Japan-only EZM3.F.V. Despite being a limited edition, the U...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Albany Watches AMA Diver - a mother of pearl dial diver, with a $300USD price tag
Divers, the tough tool watches that become our best buddies on adventures, strapped on with a wetsuit as backup to a dive computer. All this sounds wonderful, though for those of you in lockdown they have an even more important task, which is to remind us of what will come, as well as adventures spent; … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Albany Watches AMA Diver – a mother of pearl dial diver, with a $300USD price tag appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGW264, a classic dress watch in 18k gold with a hypnotic tapisserie dial
I’m a vintage diver enthusiast, embracing smaller diameters, but still with a predilection for tough tools, even - don’t tell anyone - with a bespoke shirt and a suit. Grand Seiko have single-handedly restored my faith in dress watches in 2020, with their Elegance series having several new references in what is a superb case. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGW264, a classic dress watch in 18k gold with a hypnotic tapisserie dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: Linde Werdelin release ‘3 Timer’ GMT in sandblasted steel with stunning blue gradient dial, limited to just 55
No fauxtina, no sub 40mm case and seemingly hewn out of a three ton block of arctic granite … I am blown away by how something so big can be so refreshing. A massive chunk of sandblasted blue freshness. You can tell by my name that I might have a Nordic bias here – but … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Linde Werdelin release ‘3 Timer’ GMT in sandblasted steel with stunning blue gradient dial, limited to just 55 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Enamel Dial
Just last year Montblanc unveiled the 1858 Split Second Chronograph, a Minerva-powered watch that was warmly received for being well-finished and complex, yet reasonably-priced. A retro-inspired, rattrapante mono-pusher chronograph, the watch cost US$30,000 – a solid deal as such things go. A few months after, Montblanc debuted the one-off Only Watch edition with titanium case and blue-agate dial that sold for a whopping 100,000 Swiss francs, with proceeds going to charity. The brand has now stepped things up a notch with the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 100 that channels the spirit of the Only Watch edition, featuring the same titanium case and paired with a fired enamel dial in graduated blue. Despite the similar styling, the new watch costs a lot less than the record-setting Only Watch Edition – but isn’t quite as good value as last year’s model. Smoky blue And that’s because while the bronze model had an ordinary dial of brass, this has been upgraded with a grand feu enamel dial, leading to a jump in the retail price of about US$7,000, which is about the typical premium for such a dial. The enamel dial starts off as a solid-gold disc, which is painted with a mixture of enamel powder, water and oil. It is then fired in an oven at over 800℃, melting the enamel powder and fusing it to the gold base. The process of adding enamel powder and firing is repeated multiple times so as to achieve the desired depth of colour. But unusually, the di...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Why double-signed Rolex and Patek Philippe dials are so interesting
Double-signed dials are the perfect example of how the details of a watch are sometimes the most interesting, revealing not just where a watch might have been sold, but opening up a window into the past to expose key relationships and macroeconomic trends that affected how the business of selling watches was done. Double-signed dials … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why double-signed Rolex and Patek Philippe dials are so interesting appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas with Black Dial is purposefully luxurious
For decades the Vacheron Constantin Overseas has been one of the exemplars of luxury steel sports watches. And now the travel-oriented Dual Time comes with a stylish black dial.
Time+Tide
Top 5 Grand Seiko dials of 2019
It has been a stellar year for Grand Seiko, with the Japanese watchmaker releasing not only a bevy of new iterations of some of their most popular models, but also a completely new manual-wind dress watch, the SBGK series. And, as is always the case with Grand Seiko, the arresting dials adorning these new timepieces … ContinuedThe post Top 5 Grand Seiko dials of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Dress blues - Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Baumatic with a gorgeous gradient blue dial
Editor’s note: Baume & Mercier’s flagship dress watch, the Clifton Baumatic, got a deep blue makeover earlier this year, which, combined with the classic styling and impressive movement, makes for a compelling daily dress offering … Baume & Mercier’s foray into the world of in-house movements resulted in one of the biggest value propositions of … ContinuedThe post Dress blues – Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Baumatic with a gorgeous gradient blue dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Rare rocks? The truth about Rolex meteorite dials
Where do Rolex meteorite dials come from?The post RECOMMENDED READING: Rare rocks? The truth about Rolex meteorite dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
ANNOUNCING: Seiko release stunning blue enamel dial Seiko Presage SPB069 ‘Moonlit Night’
The name of this watch gives much away about its romantic, dare we even say, poetic roots. Seiko do not usually name their watches. This makes them very difficult to tell your friends about. Unless, of course, you have a beautiful mind, and can rattle off Seiko references. Which describes no one in the Time+Tide … ContinuedThe post ANNOUNCING: Seiko release stunning blue enamel dial Seiko Presage SPB069 ‘Moonlit Night’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph in red gold with brown dial
Last week, I was in the mountain town of Jackson, Wyoming with Montblanc. And while I’ll have to wait until SIHH 2018 to share most of the watches I’ve seen with you (totally worth it, by the way), I did spot one smooth new variation of this year’s sporty TimeWalker Chronograph that I can tell you … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph in red gold with brown dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New Announcement: Vacheron Constantin new Overseas Brown dials
Vacheron Constantin extends the collection with the Overseas Brown dials for the World Time, Chronograph, Automatic/Date and the Ladies Automatic.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Contemporary Oris Big Crown Pointer Date now with an Oxblood Red Dial
The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is the brand’s hallmark aviator’s watch, introduced in 1938 and characterised by an oversized crown and a central pointer hand that indicates the date around the perimeter. However, the collection includes more than one Big Crown Pointer Date, with variants defined by their movements and design cues. The model […]
Time+Tide
Arsène Lippens adds two new dial options and display case backs to its Artigiano collection
The Arsène Lippens Artigiano Collection introduces new Italian textile dials, updated casebacks and refined details across its five models.
SJX Watches
Habring² and SJX Reunite for a Finale with CFP “Star”
Our third and final collaboration with Habring² brings together the stellar motif of the Erwin “Star” and the monopusher chronograph format of the Chrono-Felix “Medicus”, adding a perpetual calendar to create our most complicated collaboration yet. Limited to 30 pieces, the Habring² x SJX Chrono Felix Perpetual “Star” pairs a glossy black dial with applied gold stars and a matching gilded moon phase display, all housed in a compact 38.5 mm stainless steel case. The key facts A vintage-inspired, perpetual calendar monopusher chronograph Piano-black dial with eight applied star-shaped hour markers inspired by vintage Rolex “Galaxy” dials Gold-plated moon phase disc at 12 o’clock with a textured moon and stars Hand-wound Habring² A11CP movement combining the A11 chronograph base with a Dubois-Depraz perpetual calendar module Chronograph pusher doubles as the day-of-the-week corrector Steel parts of the chronograph mechanism finished by German independent watchmaker Pöhlmann-Bresan Compact steel case measuring 38.5 mm in diameter and 13 mm high Triple-stepped bezel accommodates the perpetual calendar module “Star” motif repeated on the individually numbered case back and buckle Limited to 30 pieces total Priced at US$28,500 before taxes Concluding the trilogy The “CFP” formula is self-explanatory but uncommon: a hand-wound monopusher chronograph combined with a perpetual calendar, all executed in the compact, practical manner that defines the work...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Moritz Grossmann Hamatic, now with Black Enamel Dial
Moritz Grossmann continues to celebrate the 200th anniversary of its founder, Carl Moritz Grossmann (1826-1885), a key figure in Glashütte’s rise as a powerhouse of German watchmaking. After releasing seven anniversary models this year, the brand is launching a second celebratory edition of its unique Hamatic watch, powered by a pendulum-style hammer weight. Although the […]
Monochrome
The ABCs of Time - The History of Chinese Watchmaking, From Reverse Engineering to a Growing Indie Scene
China was very late to watchmaking, with its first wristwatch debuting in 1955, while Japan had a domestic pocket watch in 1895 and its first wristwatch in 1913 (respectively Seiko’s Timekeeper and Seiko’s Laurel). Both Swiss and British watchmaking go back to the 16th century, for context. That said, China now produces more watches than all […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex Made a New Affordable Automatic Watch With a Dial I Didn’t See Coming
The Timex Marlin Chatham brings a cushion case and unexpected Breguet numerals to the brand’s growing lineup of affordable automatic watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko SBGY007 'Omiwatari' Review: Beneath The Surface Of The Frozen-Lake Dial
Why the Grand Seiko ‘Omiwatari’ deserves to in the conversation with the legendary ‘Snowflake’More
Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 50th Anniversary Editions Resurrect A Rare 1970s Silver Dial
IWC releases the Ingeniuer Automatic 50th Anniversary editions paying tribute to the iconic integrated bracelet sports watch.
Time+Tide
The Tissot PRX Chronograph goes quartz in three sharp new dial colours
Tissot expands the PRX collection with a new 41mm quartz chronograph, featuring three ultra clean, vertically brushed dials.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The New Citizen Attesa Brings a Wild Dial to a Very Serious Quartz Watch
Citizen gives its high-tech Attesa a colorful update with two limited-edition Eco-Drive GPS chronographs inspired by natural light phenomena.
Monochrome
The ABCs of Time - A Comprehensive Guide and History of Watch Dial Materials
In many cases, particularly with in-house calibres, movements are the star of the show. Finishing, complexity and technology like silicon components and new escapement designs easily steal the limelight through exhibition case backs, but dials remain the centrepiece and what you see most of the time. Even in the mid-range segment where calibres are off-the-shelf […]
Monochrome
First Look - The new HKF005, a King Seiko Vanac with a Dial Inspired by Tokyo by Night
Released last year, the King Seiko Vanac came as a surprise from the Japanese manufacturer. Contrary to most previous King Seiko watches, inspired by the early days of the sub-brand, the Vanac was based on an edgy King Seiko reference from the 1970s and powered by a Grand Seiko-derived, high-end automatic movement. This sharp and […]
Worn & Wound
Hamilton’s Popular Murph Collection Gets a New Dial Expression
Hamilton is among a small cohort of watchmakers with particularly close ties to film. The brand’s watches have been a part of cinematic history from iconic moments in classic movies like James Bond’s Pulsar in Live and Let Die and Elvis Presley’s Ventura in Blue Hawaii to more recent releases like special edition Ventura models in the Dune franchise or a limited edition Khaki Field made for The Odyssey. In Hamilton’s contribution to cinema, its collaborations have been most significant with Christopher Nolan, the filmmaker behind The Odyssey, Oppenheimer, Tenant, and Interstellar. Among these projects, the pair’s work on the 2014 epic sci-fi film Interstellar has been the most enduring. It resulted in a cult edition of Hamilton’s Khaki Field dubbed the Murph after its crucial role in the plot on the wrist of Murphy “Murph” Cooper, the daughter of Matthew McConaughey’s character Joseph Cooper. The model went on to transcend its part in the film and become a permanent fixture in Hamilton’s catalog. The brand continues to build on this legacy with its latest expression of the Murph featuring a fittingly cosmic dial that echoes back to the model’s origins.The newest edition to the Murph family reprises the more accessible 38mm proportions as opposed to the larger, oversized 42mm build that made up the original edition. Like other models we’ve seen throughout the collection, it also offers the option of a stainless steel bracelet for a sportier look or a...
Monochrome
Introducing - The A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split is back in Platinum with a Rhodium-Coloured Dial
We’ve said it before: not all chronographs are created equal, and few extend the limits of mechanical short-time measurement as far as the A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split. Since its launch in 2018, this watch has occupied a unique position in modern watchmaking as the only split-seconds chronograph capable of measuring intermediate and comparative […]
Revolution