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Time+Tide
LVMH Watch Week dominated watch releases this week, but there was also some great new pieces from non-LVMH brands.The post New releases from Gerald Charles, Greubel Forsey, Swatch x Blancpain + LVMH Watch Week 2025! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Last year, when Ressence announced the Type 8, it was met with great excitement and surprise by their fans, including yours truly. A simpler and less expensive Ressence wasn’t something that seemed on the horizon. The watch was a stripped-down take on the seemingly magical Ressence display, reduced to hours and minutes. A lack of numerals, matched with an expansive, heavily domed dial, gave the Type 8 a different mood from Ressence’s other watches. Rather than leaning toward the technical, they felt meditative, which is perhaps to say, they felt less about the engineering and more about the resulting experience. I shared my thoughts in a review you can read here. A year and a half or so later, Ressence has dropped one of the biggest surprises of 2024: a follow-up to the Type 8, which is logically called the Type 9. This wasn’t at a big event like Geneva Watch Days or Watches and Wonders but rather a random week in December, making it even more unexpected. Adding to the shock, it’s another departure from the Ressence norm, featuring their most compact case, and yet continuing the simpler hours and minutes only dial. However, where the Type 8 felt like a radical change, the Type 9 feels more like a spin-off. It’s not a new story but a subplot or side quest. Perhaps, even an alternate take on the Type 8. Case Typically, with Ressence, the dial is the star of the show, but for the Type 9, it’s the case. The dial is special, too, but it feels like a variation on the...
WatchAdvice
Where aviation heritage meets contemporary design, the Zenith x Porter PILOT Big Date Flyback Chronograph delivers bold style and functionality! What We Love The khaki green colour for the case and dial Orange accents stand out beautifully The case isn’t big, even for slimmer wrists What We Don’t The black crown and chronograph pushers seem out of place with the rest of the watch’s colour scheme. Different font are used throughout the dial Velcro strap won’t suit everyone, especially with slim wrists. Overall Score: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Zenith X Porter Pilot Big Date Flyback Porter stands out as a shining example of thoughtful design and craftsmanship in a world where collaborations feel like the norm. This collaboration was a bit unexpected; however, it is a great way to end 2024 with one of the best-looking timepieces released as a dual project. The latest collaboration between Zenith & Porter by Yoshida & Company results in a beautiful khaki green PILOT Big Date Flyback Chronograph This watch, as expected, revolves around the theme of travel. Porter is a Japanese bag brand that has a variety of styles for travel bags. For this collaboration, Porter by Yoshida & Company has supplied the velcro straps for the timepeices. They are also throwing in a specially developed bag that has been made with Zenith’s input, in Porter’s signature khaki-green colour. Zenith, on the other hand, has a long ...
Quill & Pad
This is the story of GaryG's pursuit, and eventual capture, of a classic vintage watch: a Type 20 “big eye” flyback chronograph manufactured by Mathey-Tissot.
SJX Watches
The latest from Ressence is a departure from the usual cosmetic variation. Created for its Tokyo retailer Shellman, the Type 8 Indigo features a dial inlaid with indigo-dyed Japanese silk thread that’s been tightly packed into shallow recesses on the dial surface to form a swirling motif. This watch is one of several editions conceived by Shellman that are cumulatively known as the Indigo project. Each is a collaboration with an independent watchmaker that sports a blue dial, in a nod to the traditional Japanese indigo dyeing technique. Initial thoughts The Type 8 was originally the entry-level model within the brand’s catalogue, fulfilling founder Benoît Mintiens’s wish to make his distinctive watches more accessible. At CHF25,000, the Type 8 Indigo cost almost double the basic Type 8. So it is no longer entry level, but the price is justified by the hand-made dial that takes two days to complete according to Ressence. Importantly, the silk-inlaid dial looks good and complements the brand’s aesthetic perfectly. While the Ressence is not typically known for traditional decoration crafts, the dial decoration adds a little more variety to the brand’s watches, which are typically minimalist and hyper modern. At the same time, this is also more interesting than Ressence’s recent limited editions, most of which have been simple dial variations. Indigo-dyed silk Being based on the standard Type 8, the Indigo edition retains the same titanium case that’s 42.9 mm in...
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Fratello
The all-new Ressence Type 9 is a sleek creation in either warm gray or a fresh shade of aqua blue. Its pebble-like titanium case measures 39mm wide, making it the smallest Ressence timepiece ever. The watch is a slimmed-down and refined version of the Type 8 and shows only the hours and minutes. It’s not […] Visit Introducing The All-New Ressence Type 9 In Warm Gray And Fresh Aqua to read the full article.
Revolution
Quill & Pad
A grail watch can be pretty much anything. But one thing a grail watch always is is personal. Very personal. Martin Green was introduced to his personal grail watch by a close friend who had recently treated himself to a new watch: a pre-Collection Privée Cartier Paris Louis Cartier Tank in platinum. Here's the story of how Martin got his grail.
Time+Tide
The 18k rose gold Type XX 2067RK/Y0/9WU marks the first time the Breguet brand has ever used ceramic for the externals of a watch.The post Breguet’s Type XX Civilian 2067 is now available in gold with a first-ever ceramic bezel insert appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
We visited Geneva Watch Days a few weeks ago, and Breguet was one of the brands exhibiting that week. In its beautiful boutique on the famous Rue du Rhône, Breguet showed us not only the new Type XX with steel bracelets but also (under strict embargo) this new gold Type XX Chronographe 2067. And now […] Visit Hands-On With The Rose Gold Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 to read the full article.
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Monochrome
The latest oil-filled mechanical wonder from Ressence features a blacked-out theme that’s aesthetically similar to the limited Type 3 BBB from 2022, but a splash of dial colour was added for contrast. Unlike the standard Type 3 Black, the watch is in full stealth mode with a black DLC-coated case that merges with the glossy […]
Fratello
In January 2022, Ressence introduced the Type 3 BBB, a “Black, Black, Black” version of its oil-filled mechanical watch. My colleague Dave dubbed it “the brand’s best model yet.” However, Ressence limited the production of the watch to that year only. If you were looking for an all-black Ressence Type 3 after that, you were […] Visit Introducing: The Ressence Type 3 BB2 In Nearly All-Black Attire to read the full article.
Monochrome
There’s already plenty said about the Black Bay collection and its effect on Tudor as a brand. Yes, it’s a gargantuan success and yes it’s home to countless iterations by now, and more will likely come further down the line. From its humble beginnings in 2012 with the release of the Black Bay Burgundy 79220R […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Newcomers to the watch appreciation game can be forgiven for reflexively, and solely, crediting the Japanese with bringing electronics into the mainstream of the watch industry, but the embryonic phase of the technology took place in the United States. And the most accurate electronic movement on the market today emerged from the synergy between one of America's most historic home-grown watch manufacturers and one of Japan's most innovative pioneers of timekeeping technology. It's called the Precisionist, it's exclusive to Bulova, and while you may not have heard of it or know much about it, it's becoming a fixture in several Bulova watches that increasingly demand enthusiast attention. Bulova, founded in New York City in 1875 by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova, was one of the first watchmakers in the world to seriously explore the development of electronics in wristwatch movements. In 1960, just a few years after another American watch manufacturer, Hamilton, had introduced its flawed but groundbreaking electric-powered Ventura (more on that here), Bulova unveiled its own high-tech timepiece, the Accutron Spaceview 214. The watch took its numerical designation from its movement, Caliber 214, a revolutionary mechanism in which the balance wheel, which drives the timekeeping in a mechanical movement, was replaced by a tuning fork, powered by a one-transistor electronic oscillator. This system ensured an oscillation rate of 360 hertz - nearly 150 times faster than tha...
Time+Tide
Your 101 guide to keeping your bronze watch clean and shiny or green and grimey.The post How to care for your bronze watch, from forcing patina to citric acid baths appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Deployant
Swatch welcomes more colors to the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms Collection. Created more than 70 years ago by a passionate scuba diver, this iconic model revolutionized watchmaking by becoming the first true diver’s watch. The new designs are namely fitted on the Indian Ocean and Pacific Ocean models.
Worn & Wound
There are only a few certainties in life: death, taxes, and new MoonSwatches being released every five or six months. Yes, as you’ve undoubtedly heard by now, Swatch and Omega have once again taken over your Instagram feed, knocking out three new versions of the MoonSwatch. This release follows a pair of Snoopy themed MoonSwatch moonphases, and of course the Blancpain x Swatch “Scuba” Fifty Fathoms. These new MoonSwatches hew closer to the original idea of the watch, but each is just a little extra, like guacamole on a burrito, which one of them kind of looks like if you squint. The three watches seen here make up the MoonSwatch “Mission on Earth” series, and as the name would suggest are inspired by earthbound phenomena. The “Desert” variant has a tan BioCeramic case and taupe dial, with an aesthetic inspired by, well, the desert. Slightly more adventurous is the “Lava” MoonSwatch, with a bright red case and an orange chronograph seconds hand that pays homage to the Omega “Ultraman” Speedmaster. The third watch, and the best of the three in my opinion, is the “Polar Lights,” which features a turquoise case and a dial inspired by the aesthetic of aventurine. As many readers will surely recall, I’m not the biggest fan of the MoonSwatch. What was once a charming idea and perhaps a way to get new enthusiasts into the hobby quickly became something of a money grab. A predictable result, no doubt. But now that there’s a regular cadence to these...
Teddy Baldassarre
When you think of Australia, watches are probably not the first images that come to your mind. Kangaroos, boomerangs, Hugh Jackman, and Nicole Kidman, maybe, but not watches. However, much like Great Britain, France,, and our own United States, Australia in the 21st Century has given rise to a creative and ambitious generation of watch aficionados-turned-entrepreneurs that are eager to establish home-grown watchmaking in the Land Down Under. While a full-fledged horological industry in Australia is still quite a way from becoming reality - unlike those aforementioned nations, it has little watchmaking history to speak of, and outsourced parts and even manufacturing are still the norm - these 10 Australia-based watch brands are making timepieces worthy of enthusiasts’ attention. Melbourne Watch Co. Founded: 2013 Headquarters: Melbourne, Australia Founder: Sujain Krishnan Notable models: Melbourne, Flinders, Portsea, Fitzroy Melbourne Watch Company started out as a crowd-funded venture in 2013, a passion project for founder, former IT consultant and self-trained watchmaker Sujain Krishnan. It attained early success with its first timepiece, the Flinders Automatic, a business-casual steel watch named for a central train hub in the founder’s home city of Melbourne and sporting a dial inspired by that station’s clock. The brand has expanded its offerings in the decade-plus since, now offering no less than seven collections, all taking their names and some aesthetic cu...
Monochrome
What started as Massena LAB’s venture to create watches in collaboration with accessible niche brands or renowned independent watchmakers has grown to another level. Now, the horological creative studio not only designs and develops watches but has gotten to the point of co-developing its own proprietary movements. First seen with the Old School watch, made […]
Quill & Pad
Martin Green thinks that the Armin Strom Orbit the best watch with a date complication currently available. and here he explains why.
Video
Think you’re building the perfect watch collection? You might be making some very costly mistakes without even realizing it. In this video, I break down the 5 biggest watch collecting mistakes that can drain your wa...
Time+Tide
A watch auction hosted inside of a cave? Surely not. Well, do not be so sure because this is 100% actually happening next week in Geneva. Dubbed by Sotheby’s as the ‘Rough Diamonds’ auction, the sale will be hosted underground at the wine cellar La Corne à Vin (47 bis Rue de Lausanne, Geneva) on … ContinuedThe post Sotheby’s is hosting a ‘Rough Diamonds’ watch auction soon in Geneva INSIDE A CAVE appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
As a sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, the “restomod” outfit specialising in Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined naturally got its start with auto-racing inspired chronographs, namely the Track 1. Now the brand has pivoted and debuted its first diving watch, the Divetrack Chronograph. Decidedly oversized – the diameter is 49 mm – the Divetrack has the aesthetics of a dive timer, but also the functionality thanks to a clever case and dial construction. And like the Track 1, the Divetrack is powered by the smart AgenGraphe movement that consolidates all of the chronograph indicators onto the central axis. Initial thoughts Oversized dive watches are cool. Watch nerds appreciate them for the technology, design, and function even if no one really uses them for the intended purpose. This applies to the Seiko Tuna, Rolex Deepsea Challenge, and now the Divetrack. At 49 mm in diameter and almost 20 mm high, the Divetrack is unabashedly oversized. It has an appealing instrument-like design along with a clever decompression scale on the dial. And the Agenhor movement inside ranks amongst the most inventive chronograph movements on the market. But the Divetrack is priced at CHF85,000, which is surprisingly high. In comparison, the Track 1 in titanium or aluminium costs about CHF50,000. The number is difficult to justify regardless of how you slice it. Although the movement has been modified for a 24-hour counter, the modification isn’t a major one. Still, the small edition ...
Quill & Pad
GaryG has the pleasure of being able to set aside other priorities on a regular basis and immerse himself in the world of macro watch photography. Along the way, he has been asked by a number of people to reveal techniques that he uses to create the images you see in his article and here he shares some of his tips.
Fratello
William Wood announces a new wristwatch as an extension to its firefighter-inspired collection. Instead of firefighting, the Fire Exit watch focuses on global emergency signs in public buildings. These signs comply with the ISO 3864 safety standard to ensure international familiarity. Specifically, the signal-green shade graces the emergency exit signs that William Wood channels in […] Visit Hands-On With The William Wood Fire Exit Watch to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
District Time may need a new home. The Washington, DC watch fair was held for the sixth time at the start of March, and its record attendance made the District Architecture Center feel more cramped than it has in the past. Every bit of wall was lined with a booth showcasing an independent watch brand. Some are big enough or popular enough you might recognize the name–Christopher Ward, Formex, Rado–while others are true microbrands. “It’s grown a bit every year, minus the COVID years,” said Nate DeNicola, a contributor to one of the event’s organizers, the Time Bum. “One of the cool things about this year is there are a few established microbrands that are here for the first time. Bourbon out of New Orleans; Foliot out of New York; Dufrane from Austin, Texas. So it’s really become kind of the east coast watch show for a lot of these micro and independent brands.” DeNicola was there not just representing the Time Bum, but running the booth for another one of those microbrands: Bremoir, an Art Deco-inspired watch brand that takes design cues from 1920s American architecture. Watch fans are familiar with the major brands and their offerings, but events like District Time allow enthusiasts the chance to discover watchmakers they’d never heard of who are still providing high-quality products but have the flexibility to experiment more with their watches. Bremoir’s vintage design is unlike anything on the market right now, and it was difficult to even get th...
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Everything you need to know about the current luxury watch market situation!
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