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Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors We got our hands on with our favourites from Piaget this WWG26, and here are the highlights. First up the Piaget Polo Signature, now the release with a stone solalite dial. The dial is made in gold with the gadroons which is inspired by the original Piaget Polo. Then the sodalite, a hard stone is [...] The post Live from WWG26: new releases of Piaget appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
SJX Watches
To mark 30 years of its Fleurier manufacture, Chopard has introduced a new variant of the watch that started it all. The new Lucent steel L.U.C 1860 adds a blue dial to the brand’s flagship time-only dress watch. The L.U.C 1860 is short on novelty, being merely a new colour for a model that debuted in 2023, but the incremental improvements result in a sleek and sophisticated steel dress watch. Initial thoughts The L.U.C 1860 is very traditional dress watch in the sense that nothing feels exaggerated. At the same time, it doesn’t feel boring thanks to its guilloché dial and the obvious quality of the movement within. While there are some who believe that a proper dress watch must come in precious metal, the popularity of the steel-and-salmon L.U.C 1860 released in 2023 proves there’s an alternate perspective. The brand’s proprietary ‘Lucent’ steel makes the watch more accessible, especially in the age of near-record gold prices. Despite the use of a comparatively humble material, the case finishing remains high-end - though the design is generation behind the new case profile introduced for the Grand Strike. Since the original L.U.C 1860 debuted in 1997, it has always been a small watch. For a time, that left it out of step with consumer preferences, especially in the early 2000s, but tastes have once again shifted back in favour of smaller cases. In this context, the vintage-leaning 36.5 mm size feels just right. That said, while it makes sense for Chopar...
SJX Watches
True to form, IWC has expanded the Ingenieur Automatic 35 with two new references: a blue dial that completes the mid-sized lineup’s colour palette, and the first gem-set Ingenieur of the modern era. Both are straightforward line extensions but should prove commercially successful, especially in the context of current trends favouring smaller watches. Initial thoughts Vintage watch enthusiasts and buyers with smaller wrists will appreciate these additions to the catalogue, though many mainstream watch buyers dismiss any watch under 36 mm out of hand. That instinct is understandable, but misleading here: integrated bracelet watches wear more substantially than their diameters tend to suggest, and the Ingenieur 35 is a watch best understood on the wrist rather than on paper. With the introduction of a diamond-set two-tone reference, it appears IWC is positioning this size as the unisex choice for both men and women while exploring new formats for a broader appeal. New references in the Ingenieur lineup have arrived in a recognisable pattern. Reintroduced in 2023, the current-generation Ingenieur draws on the design language of Gerald Genta’s original but in a 40 mm steel case, offered from launch with silver and black-dialled variants. The ever-popular blue dial joined the 40 mm lineup a year after the collection’s refresh. The 35 mm size is following a similar pattern after launching last year with black and silver dial options. Inevitably blue The ref. IW324907 will ...
SJX Watches
This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Rolex Oyster, the first waterproof watch produced by the brand. Rolex just announced two new Oyster Perpetual models to mark the occasion. One is a sombre 41 mm Rolesor Anniversary model (Ref. 134303) which blends gold with steel and the other is a playful 36 mm Jubilee Dial (Ref. 126000) which focuses on colour and patterns. Initial thoughts Celebrating 100 years of the landmark Oyster case is certainly important to Rolex, as that original invention has been defining the brand ever since. Choosing arguably the plainest model line to mark the occasion is both meaningful and inspired. The entry-level Oyster Perpetual line manages to still bridge the gap between what Rolex has become and what the brand was 100 years ago. This back-to-basics approach gave birth to interesting models, which couldn’t be more different. The restrained 41 mm anniversary Oyster Perpetual is dressed in 904L Oystersteel paired with a yellow gold bezel and crown. Complemented by the gold accents on the dial and hands, the final look is very reminiscent of some configurations of the beloved “Bubbleback” Oyster era. At the opposite end of the spectrum, the new 36 mm Jubilee loses all celebratory sobriety and instead relies on a colourful reinterpretation of the Jubilee monogram dial introduced back in the 1970s. The blocky letters printed in vivid colours make for a look that is split between vintage inspired and excessively modern. This Oyster...
SJX Watches
This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Rolex Oyster, the first waterproof watch produced by the brand. Rolex just announced two new Oyster Perpetual models to mark the occasion: the Oyster Perpetual 41 mm Rolesor Anniversary (ref. 134303) in an unusual blend of gold and steel, and the playful Oyster Perpetual “Jubilee Dial” that’s all about colour and patterns with a dial reminiscent of the works of Alighiero Boetti (and is available in 41 mm, 36 mm, and 36 mm variants). Initial thoughts Celebrating 100 years of the landmark Oyster case is certainly important to Rolex, as that original invention has been defining the brand ever since. Choosing arguably the plainest model line to mark the occasion is both meaningful and inspired. The entry-level Oyster Perpetual line manages to still bridge the gap between what Rolex has become and what the brand was 100 years ago. This back-to-basics approach gave birth to interesting models, which couldn’t be more different. The restrained 41 mm anniversary Oyster Perpetual is dressed in 904L Oystersteel paired with a yellow gold bezel and crown. Complemented by the gold accents on the dial and hands, the final look is very reminiscent of some configurations of the beloved “Bubbleback” Oyster era. At the opposite end of the spectrum, the new 36 mm Jubilee loses all celebratory sobriety and instead relies on a colourful reinterpretation of the Jubilee monogram dial introduced back in the 1970s. The blocky letters pri...
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Fratello
It’s been three years since Tudor surprised us with the Black Bay 54. The smallest of the Black Bay models has since become a popular option for people who love a modestly sized Tudor dive watch. The new addition to the lineup comes with a nice sapphire-blue dial and bezel. It’s a color that really […] Visit Tudor Introduces The New Black Bay 54 In Blue to read the full article.
Fratello
Of all modern high-end brands, Parmigiani Fleurier is among my favorites. In fact, the Tonda PF has consistently ranked as the top watch on my list for the past several years. The smooth design and what must be one of the best bracelets I’ve ever tried help boost its ranking. Then, there’s the dial. A […] Visit Invisible Complexity: The New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux to read the full article.
Deployant
A. Lange & Söhne introduces the next generation of its Saxonia Annual Calendar watch, featuring a new movement, an updated dial design, and a smaller case.
Fratello
Today, Oris introduces its Star re-edition. It’s a celebration of the very first Oris watch to feature a lever escapement, from 1966. But “Oris Star” sounds familiar, doesn’t it? Back in 2023, we collaborated with the company from Hölstein on the Fratello × Oris Divers Sixty-Five with “Star” on the dial, just like its 1968 […] Visit Hands-On With The New Oris Star Re-Edition to read the full article.
Hodinkee
A bright red dial joins a yellow gold case for the first time in Patek Philippe's iconic travel watch collection.
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Fratello
Patek Philippe has updated one of its long-running calendar models with a new version of the reference 5396R. The watch keeps the familiar Annual Calendar layout the brand introduced back in 1996, but now it comes with a warmer dial color in sunburst sand beige and a rose gold case. It’s not a redesign in […] Visit Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase to read the full article.
Time+Tide
An update to the dressy pilot's watch from Cartier brings a slinky new bracelet and a deep stone dial option.The post Cartier releases new large Santos-Dumont models with metal bracelets and in-house mechanical movements appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar brings one of the brand’s most celebrated complications into its modern integrated sports watch design for the very first time. I take a closer look at what makes this latest evolution of the Ingenieur such a compelling release. What We Love: Compact proportions for a sports watch with Kurt-Klaus’s perpetual calendar design Beautifully executed case and dial finishing Stainless steel makes it more wearable and accessible What We Don’t: No micro-adjustment system on the bracelet clasp Limited strap versatility due to the integrated bracelet design No precious metal option at launch for those wanting a more luxurious take Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Ingenieur has always been one of IWC’s most compelling designs, blending Gérald Genta’s signature aesthetic codes with the brand’s own sporty heritage and technical edge. I’ve been fortunate enough to review quite a few models from the Ingenieur range, which gives a good sense of how the overall collection sits across various sizes and complications. During Watches & Wonders 2025, arguably, one of the biggest shifts to the Ingenieur collection in modern times. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer presented the Ingenieur in a 41.6mm case, with none other than a perpetual calendar complication sitting inside. The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar is the first of its kind, released during Watches & Wonder...
SJX Watches
With wind in his sails following the successful Origine series, independent watchmaker Sylvain Pinaud returns with his most ambitious project yet, the succinctly named Tourbillon. The watch looks and feels a lot like its time-only predecessor, but the movement is in fact completely different, with twin mainspring barrels and a fast-rotating 30-second tourbillon. The Tourbillon in platinum with a white agate dial. Initial thoughts Appetite remains strong for high-end time-only watches, but the leading independents are increasingly leaving simplicity behind and treating their collectors to additional complications. Mr Pinaud’s Tourbillon exemplifies this shift. Despite the greater complexity of its movement, the Tourbillon is no larger than the simpler Origine. In fact, it’s about 1 mm smaller in diameter. That’s impressive considering it fits an extra mainspring barrel and adds a zero-reset seconds functionality to its namesake tourbillon. This latter functionality - specifically its heart cam - is on full display through an opening in the running seconds sub-dial at nine o’clock. But its the 30-second tourbillon that gives the watch its name, and which warrants special scrutiny. Fast-rotating tourbillons - which rotate more quickly than once per minute - are quite rare. They require more energy and greater care in assembly, since they almost invariably use lighter components. In the case of the Tourbillon, the slender three-armed cage is made of titanium, r...
SJX Watches
Having debuted its first proprietary movement inside the Caballero last year, Singer Reimagined is building on the calibre by adding a second time zone. The DualTrack is powered by the same cleverly constructed movement, a manual wind with an impressive six day power reserve, but gains a 24-hour ring for a GMT function. The watch adopts the cushion-shaped case that’s the brand signature, while the dial similarly preserve the aesthetic found on the brand’s trademark central chronographs, but with a 24-hour ring around the dial. Because the second time zone is an add-on over the calibre, the 24-scale ring is independently adjustable, rather than the local hour hand, making this “caller” GMT rather than a true “traveller” GMT. Initial thoughts I like the Singer aesthetic so this design is appealing, and it implements the dual time zone function logically and legibly. The in-house movement with a long power reserve is also a plus, especially since it has a novel four-barrel construction. The only downside here is the “caller” type second time zone function. A “true” GMT with an independent local hour hand, as found on the Rolex GMT-Master II, is the most convenient format, since it requires fewest steps when setting the time while travelling, but this requires a built-from-the-ground-up calibre. All things considered, that can be forgiven since the DualTrack is an attractive proposition overall. Like last year’s Caballero, the DualTrack is a useful watch ...
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SJX Watches
FVF Genève’s second model after the FVF1 skeleton tourbillon, the FVF2 Intrepido Time & Day is a more concise and accessible watch. It’s essentially a familiar formula – time (plus day) and a hand-finished manual wind movement – the FVF2 nonetheless manages to stand out thanks to brand founder Franc Vila’s eye for design. Pictured here with a black mother of pearl dial, part of a five-piece edition, the FVF2 has a pleasing asymmetry. The movement is composed of intriguing geometric forms and quirky details like the square winding click, while also being traditionally decorated with generous bevelling and black polishing. The case is an unusual “unibody” construction where the base plate and case middle are one and the same Initial thoughts The FVF2 might seem like yet another time-only watch with a fancily decorated movement, and it is just that, but not quite. Its creator, Franc Vila, is an industry veteran rather than a newcomer, and is now making a comeback after rising and falling with his original brand some two decades ago. Unlike many recent calibres that try to do more with more, the FVF2 movement is more minimalist but has a recognisable style and artful details. The calibre is characterised by geometric forms that encompass finer elements like the winding click, while also retaining a clear classical bent with the prominent going train and finishing. The treatment for the titanium base plate requires superheated gases to create an oxide layer on t...
Monochrome
Since its founding in 2010 in Antwerp by Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintiens, indie brand Ressence has positioned itself as a design-led watch studio that literally rethinks how time is displayed on the wrist. Animated by Ressence’s Orbital Convex System (ROCS), time circles around the dial like planets orbiting the Sun, using highly graphic and […]
SJX Watches
Albishorn returns with a new interpretation of its mountaineering chronograph, the Thundergraph Khumbu, swapping the original’s petroleum blue dial for a green colourway and introducing the brand’s first-ever bracelet option. Like its predecessor, the watch draws inspiration from the 1952 Swiss expeditions to Everest, this time taking its name from the Khumbu region of Nepal traversed by the climbing party on its approach to the mountain. Initial thoughts I was impressed by the original Thundergraph when it launched last year - it was my favourite Albishorn to that point. The Khumbu does not reinvent anything, but the bracelet option is a meaningful addition that should widen the appeal to a new segment of collectors. The stainless steel case is carried over unchanged at 39 mm at the case band, expanding to 42.7 mm across the bezel. The asymmetric form, red anodised aluminium monopusher at 9:30, and bronze crown engraved with the Albishorn logo - appropriately modeled on a snow-capped peak - are all retained. The case back also carries the same Swiss cross and rope engraving, the emblem of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, which remains one of the more convincing elements of the brand’s ‘imaginary vintage’ concept. Khumbu green The petroleum blue dial of the original Thundergraph has been replaced by a mint green opaline hue, said to be inspired by the Khumbu glacier region, where vegetation survives in a harsh environment of ice and rock. The disti...
Monochrome
When a brand drops a set of updates like this, it is rarely about just one watch. With Montblanc’s start to 2026, the focus is more on variety. The Rieussec brings in a historical link, while pieces like the Iced Sea focus more on materials and colour, including a brighter coral dial. There are also […]
SJX Watches
Breguet refreshes its Tradition collection for 2026 with new colourways and expanded grand feu enamel dial options across five references, building on the momentum of the brand’s 250th anniversary year. The line-up spans four automatic variants of the Seconde Rétrograde and one manually wound GMT, all underpinned by the architecturally distinctive cal. 505 that has defined the collection since its 2005 introduction. Initial thoughts Inspired by an original Abraham-Louis Breguet’s montres à tact pocket watch from the late 18th century, the Tradition collection, released in 2005, was Breguet’s first major new model family under Swatch Group management. The central barrel placement and unusual gear train arrangement perfectly captures the essence of the original pocket watches, and this aspect of the design remains as recognisable and distinctive as ever, despite the a growing number of independent watchmakers that have introduced watches with a similar layout. In fact, the cal. 505 is so successful as a contemporary interpretation of Breguet’s work that a variation of it was adapted for use in the award-winning Classique Souscription 2025 introduced last year. For 2026, the Tradition collection has been slightly refreshed with modern colourways and more grand feu enamel dial options. The five new models include four automatic variants of the Seconde Rétrograde, one of which features a diamond-set bezel, and one manually wound reference with a dual-time complicatio...
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Time+Tide
With Watches and Wonders happening next month, participating (big box) brands have to wait before being able to release any novelties. However, the past seven days have been extremely busy for the independents and Swatch Group brands! We have Credor debuting a new ceramic dial time-only watch, Krayon playing on the Pac Man anniversary, and … ContinuedThe post New releases from Credor, Krayon, Nomos and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Until late summer 2025, watch enthusiasts lived in a universe where Singer Reimagined watches were reliably awe-inspiring in their complexity. The brand’s many takes on racing chronographs matched its close relationship with Singer Vehicle Design. And then, come September 2025, Singer dropped the time-only Caballero. Out went the complications and intricate dial layouts. In came […] Visit Introducing: The Singer Reimagined Caballero, Now Reimagined In Titanium to read the full article.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list. This week, we picked a Rolex that many of us praise as one of the brand’s best - the Explorer. Introduced in 1953 with its signature 3-6-9 dial, this watch has become a favorite within the enthusiast community. Some of the Fratello team members own one, and I am sure plenty […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Explorer Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.
Deployant
We are not particularly big fans of openworked dials. But every once in a a while, one does come along which tugs at our heartstrings. We pick our top six.
WatchAdvice
The Cherry Blossoms are blooming in Japan, so we’re celebrating with our selection of pink dial watches with the TAG Heuer Monaco Pink Skeleton This article was originally published as The New TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton Hot Pink Review What We Love: The hot pink dial – trust me, it grows on you! The lightness, combined with the rubber strap, makes it super easy to wear The faceted sapphire crystal is unique and adds depth to the watch What We Don’t: The square shape is not my preferred case shape Lack of a screw-down crown on a 100m WR sports watch The watch is on the thicker side and takes a little to get used to Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 TAG Heuer and Formula 1 seem to be inextricably linked, not surprising given the Swiss brand’s history with motorsport all the way back to the 1960s. This link is further solidified with their watches – one carrying the famed sport’s namesake in the TAG Heuer Formula 1, the other with the Monaco, one of the most iconic F1 races, gaining fame thanks to Steve McQueen wearing the piece in his 1971 film, Le Mans. Yes, it wasn’t F1, but a screen legend wearing a sports watch prominently on the wrist in a film about another iconic motorsport event helped to put the Monaco front and centre. While the materials and designs these days a lot more modern, the classic Monaco DNA is still there and instantly recognisable. So it comes as no surpri...
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