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Daniel Roth is back with the Tourbillon Souscription (and LVMH) Time+Tide
Daniel Roth Mar 26, 2023

Daniel Roth is back with the Tourbillon Souscription (and LVMH)

How about it? After years of rumours and months of teasing, we were finally presented with the model that will spearhead Daniel Roth’s revival, aptly chosen to be a Tourbillon Souscription. We’ve seen the Daniel Roth name pop up in numerous auctions (here and here, for example), building up the hype, which I may or … ContinuedThe post Daniel Roth is back with the Tourbillon Souscription (and LVMH) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Bulgari Octo Roma collection Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma collection Mar 26, 2023

The new Bulgari Octo Roma collection

The new Bulgari Octo Roma collection pays tribute to the Swiss watchmaking side of the Italian brand. With dials featuring a hobnail pattern, their sportiness is accentuated. Both Automatic and Chronograph models come with a steel bracelet and extra rubber strap with a quick-release system. Sneaking in just before 2023’s edition of Watches & Wonders, … ContinuedThe post The new Bulgari Octo Roma collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hamilton Wandering Earth II expands the brand horizons, without spoilers Time+Tide
Hamilton Wandering Earth II expands Mar 25, 2023

The Hamilton Wandering Earth II expands the brand horizons, without spoilers

The Swiss watchmaker collaborates with a Chinese movie production producing two Hamilton Wandering Earth special editions A limited, transparent case model will be available in mainland China only, while Australians can find the two special editions in the Time+Tide Shop  The second special edition is an adaptation of the Jazzmaster Thinline, with a Wandering Earth-themed … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Wandering Earth II expands the brand horizons, without spoilers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Taking Inspiration from Nature With The New Boldr Safari Vogelkop Superb Worn & Wound
Boldr Safari Vogelkop Superb Complex Mar 25, 2023

Taking Inspiration from Nature With The New Boldr Safari Vogelkop Superb

Complex DNA. Constantly evolving species. A couple billion year head start. These things ensure that Mother Nature continues to be the dominant designer on this planet, and has been for quite a long time. So when a watch brand decides it’s time to create something new, what better place to draw inspiration from? Complex DNA. Constantly evolving species. A couple billion year head start. These things ensure that Mother Nature continues to be the dominant designer on this planet, and has been for quite a long time. So when a watch brand decides it’s time to create something new, what better place to draw inspiration from? The post Taking Inspiration from Nature With The New Boldr Safari Vogelkop Superb appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Send Us Your Recommendations And Suggestions Of Watches To Nominate For The 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Quill & Pad
Mar 25, 2023

Send Us Your Recommendations And Suggestions Of Watches To Nominate For The 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)

As GPHG Academy members, GaryG, Joshua Munchow, and Ian Skellern have been asked to nominate watches for consideration in the 2023 GPHG. And while they spend much of our lives immersed in the world of watches, they don’t know of everything out there and there may well be, and are likely to be, gems that they are not aware of. So please send us your suggestions and recommendations for watches in the 15 categories listed.

Engineering a classic: The history of IWC’s Ingenieur Time+Tide
IWC s Ingenieur While IWC Mar 25, 2023

Engineering a classic: The history of IWC’s Ingenieur

While IWC is rightly known for their wide range of classic Pilot’s watches, including the Big Wrist Energy radiating from their Big Pilot’s models, their many chronograph references, and the flieger-style Mark series, there’s another name that’s no less important in their history: The Ingenieur. First developed in the 1950s for technical and scientific applications, … ContinuedThe post Engineering a classic: The history of IWC’s Ingenieur appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 5: The best deep divers for slim wrists Time+Tide
Mar 25, 2023

Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 5: The best deep divers for slim wrists

If the moon was the frontier of the 1960s, then the deepest sea has been the frontier ever since – specifically the Mariana Trench in the Western Pacific Ocean. Last year, saw yet another challenge laid down, but this time not in an actual attempt to reach the bottom, rather in the release of the … ContinuedThe post Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 5: The best deep divers for slim wrists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of the classic model Time+Tide
Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph collection Mar 24, 2023

The new Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of the classic model

Breitling releases new Premier B01 Chronographs with a slimmer profile Six models, five new dial colors, available in stainless steel and gold The collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of their Premier chronographs If there’s one thing Breitling is synonymous with, it’s their history of innovation with chronographs and chronograph movements. According to Breitling, after decades … ContinuedThe post The new Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of the classic model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Eric L. Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster MKII Racing – Mar 24, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Eric L.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, long time reader Eric L. shares their trio of watches, which include a brand I had to Google to discover. This is a collection motivated not by hype, but by enthusiasm alone so hat’s off to Eric for this selection. Bonos points for one of the coolest G-Shocks in existence.  If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. Header image credit: Analog:Shift Long time listener, first time caller. NATO’s are great…always. Full Stop…no question.  Keep up the good work folks. Omega Speedmaster MKII Racing – $4,000 It’s a Speedmaster, but you didn’t type in “best watch algorithm” in the Google Machine to find out which Speedy you should buy (It’s the Professional Moonwatch…it went to the moon, but Omega rarely talks about it). Plus, everyone knows that the 70’s racing scene was so funky and lit that it deserves more credit that it receives. Funky case, orange highlights, tach ring under the glass…it’s just better than the Moonwatch in all respects, and I’ll fight anyone who says otherwise. Scared of vintage watches? Get the reissue with a co-axial movement that’s COSC certified. Elliott Brown Houlton Professional – $550 Analog watches are a thing of the past you say?  All soldiers, sailors, airmen, and marines need are G-Shocks and Timex Ironman watches, you say?  Well my brothers and sisters in the UK’s Special Boat ...

The Rolex Air-King: A history of the Crown’s most divisive model Time+Tide
Rolex Air-King Mar 24, 2023

The Rolex Air-King: A history of the Crown’s most divisive model

When you think of Rolex, you don’t exactly think of quirky or unusual watches. Nowadays, the massive brand is known for its simple, surgically measured designs. Only one model remains the odd one out. The Air-King is probably the quirkiest Rolex piece currently in production, along with the Milgauss. It is one of the oldest … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Air-King: A history of the Crown’s most divisive model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Did Rolex just leak their own Watches & Wonders 2023 releases?!? Time+Tide
Rolex just leak their own Mar 23, 2023

Did Rolex just leak their own Watches & Wonders 2023 releases?!?

Rolex is notoriously secretive about their releases, keeping their novelties completely under lock and key until the moment the embargo lifts. Sure, people constantly put together prediction videos or claim to have leaks in social media posts. But these often turn out to be figments of the imagination rather than reality. It is quite ironic … ContinuedThe post Did Rolex just leak their own Watches & Wonders 2023 releases?!? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bremont Broadsword Gets Armed Forces LE Treatment Worn & Wound
Bremont Broadsword Gets Armed Forces Mar 23, 2023

Bremont Broadsword Gets Armed Forces LE Treatment

Henley, Oxfordshire. Pimm’s and Regattas. The splendid River and Rowing Museum.  Particularly vindictive traffic wardens. And ‘The Wing’, Bremont’s HQ. There are plenty of reasons to try to wangle an invitation to look around. Nick’s dog Pedro, for a start – he’s lovely.  The coffee’s good. The building itself is remarkable. Where else do you find a regularly changing selection of classic cars in a reception area? Last time I was there it was a restored Land Rover half-ton Lightweight. And, if you’re into your military watches, there’s an entire wall of them with an example of every unit, squadron or crew model the firm has made. Some you’ll have heard of, others are, quite deliberately, not exactly household names. It’s not surprising. Bremont tend to build their watches (‘build’ seems like a better word than ‘make’ in this context) to take a knock or two. I’ve had one of their MBIIs since 2011 and, despite almost G-Shock levels of abuse, it’s never missed a beat. So even though you’re more likely to see a G or an F-91W on exercise (losing a $15 Casio in the mud is easier to stomach than a nearly $4k Bremont), there’s little doubt they’d hack the pace.  Now there’s a new watch for the Armed Forces Collection – the Broadsword Recon. Bremont’s Broadsword range has been around since 2019, the year the firm signed the Armed Forces Covenant to support those who serve or have served. Practically, in the case of the Broadsword, ...

Depancel Sticks to a Tried-and-True Formula with the Legend 60s Chronograph Worn & Wound
Mar 23, 2023

Depancel Sticks to a Tried-and-True Formula with the Legend 60s Chronograph

It has been awhile since we’ve checked in on Depancel, an up and coming watch brand based out of the sleepy alpine town, Annecy, France. It was their Serie-A Allure that last caught our attention last year – a dual-register automatic chronograph heavy on the automotive design cues, which for the spry brand, was their first-ever production chronograph. Since then, it seems they’ve come a long way in a relatively short time. Depancel has expanded their collection, defined their design language (primarily auto-inspired), and now they even have a showroom (in Annecy) for those keen on seeing their collection in the metal. Despite the evolution, that doesn’t mean the brand has lost touch with the watch enthusiast community or their passion for all things automotive. Their new Legend 60s chronograph encompasses everything that has made the brand successful thus far.   The brand has heard a growing number of requests from Depancel collectors and enthusiasts alike to return to their racing chronograph roots. Even though they’ve done away with their online questionnaire that allows for the community to directly make suggestions as to what they’d love to see from the brand, the Legend 60s chronograph proves that they firmly still have their ear to the ground. And what better way to return to their “racing chronograph roots” than to develop a watch inspired by the Formula One racing scene in the 1960s. The Legend 60s marks another first for the Depancel, and that com...

The Glashütte Original 2023 PanoInverse Limited Edition brings an urban cityscape to the wrist Time+Tide
Glashütte Original 2023 PanoInverse Limited Edition Mar 23, 2023

The Glashütte Original 2023 PanoInverse Limited Edition brings an urban cityscape to the wrist

Glashütte Original’s offering mainly comes in two forms – rugged, but finely finished pieces like the SeaQ, and contemporary works of art in the likes of their Senator and Pano collections. Available in a limited edition of 50 pieces, the Glashütte Original PanoInverse Limited Edition follows the biennial release of this special edition, and falls … ContinuedThe post The Glashütte Original 2023 PanoInverse Limited Edition brings an urban cityscape to the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Doxa’s New Sub 200 C-Graph II is Smaller, Slimmer & Ready for Your Next Cave Dive (Or Not) Worn & Wound
Doxa s New Sub 200 Mar 23, 2023

Doxa’s New Sub 200 C-Graph II is Smaller, Slimmer & Ready for Your Next Cave Dive (Or Not)

When I hear the words “Doxa Sub,” it’s hard for me to not start conjuring images in the ol’ noggin of that wide cushion, pebble-like steel case, the orange accented no-deco table splitting bezel duty with an elapsed time display, and the ever-so whimsical dial. The Sub 300 is a damn near perfect watch, in my humble opinion. But lately (over the course of two years), Doxa has given their flagship dive watch some company within their catalog by way of a couple releases that, at glance, might not resemble the Doxa you and I are used to. The brand with a storied history in the sport of diving and oceanic exploration has been doing some exploring of their own, but into different case design waters. I’m referring to their contemporary divers that use more of a conventional round case shape like the Sub 200 and the Sub 200 C-Graph. Recently, Doxa released the second coming of their Sub 200 chronograph with the Sub 200 C-Graph II. There are notable differences with the newcomer that include several models within the collection now sporting a steel bezel (as a traditional Doxa should have), a new dial finish, and smaller case proportions that amount to a more wearable, everyday diver. When the Doxa Sub 200 C-Graph was introduced in 2020, it reintroduced a chronograph into their expansive regular production diver collection. It was (and still is) a three-register chronograph that attempted to keep some of the vintage charm with its faux-patina markers. In terms of its case...

INTRODUCING: The Nomos Club Campus Electric Green and Cream Coral Time+Tide
Nomos Club Campus Electric Green Mar 23, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Nomos Club Campus Electric Green and Cream Coral

The Nomos Club Campus is now available in Electric Green and Cream Coral. The new colours are available across both 36mm and 38.5mm sizes. It’s powered by Nomos’ in-house Alpha movement. The idea behind the Nomos Club Campus as a graduation watch marks it out as a unique and fitting gift, whether you’re buying it … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Nomos Club Campus Electric Green and Cream Coral appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Masseto Super Tuscan Wine From Italy: If Not Better Than Petrus, It’s Close Quill & Pad
Mar 23, 2023

Masseto Super Tuscan Wine From Italy: If Not Better Than Petrus, It’s Close

At a blind wine tasting many years ago that included a superb Petrus, for many of the tasters, including Ken Gargett, the superstar on the night, was something called Masseto, an Italian Merlot from the 1993 vintage. At the time, none of them had even heard of Masseto, let alone had any idea that an Italian Merlot might top one of the most famous wines on the planet. It was an obscure Italian Merlot back then, but all that would soon change.

Urwerk Introduces the UR-102 “Reloaded” SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces Mar 23, 2023

Urwerk Introduces the UR-102 “Reloaded”

The long anticipated revival of Urwerk’s first model has finally arrived: the UR-102 “Reloaded” is modelled on the watch Urwerk presented at its debut Basel fair in 1997. The new UR-102 preserves the pebble-like form of the original but with enough tweaks to make it different, most notably with a larger case and revamped time display. The model makes it debut as a box set containing two UR-102s, one in titanium and the other all black. Initial thoughts I was looking forward to Urwerk’s revival of the UR-102. And I’m not disappointed with the result – except for the fact that it’s sold only as a pair. The “Reloaded” version is obviously modelled on the 1997 original, but it’s also clearly a different creation. For one, it’s larger and the time display has been redesigned. Add to that the restyled lugs and repositioned crown and you have a watch that’s very much distinct. In short, the new UR-102 is not a remake but a successful and appealing reinterpretation of the original. Leaving aside its origins, the UR-102 also has intrinsic appeal. It’s a clean, attractive design with sci-fi vibes. But the UR-102 is being sold as a pair – both identical save for the case finish – but subsequent versions will be sold individually, making them more accessible. Coming full circle At 41 mm the UR-102 “Reloaded” is noticeably larger than the 1997 original that was just 38 mm wide. The enlarged case retains the same streamlined outline that was inspired b...

The new Yema Rallye 5 Turbo goes deep into French car racing Time+Tide
Yema Mar 22, 2023

The new Yema Rallye 5 Turbo goes deep into French car racing

Since 1948, Yema has been producing reliable sports watches that come with a unique visual DNA. Best known for the Superman Heritage diver, Yema has been producing many types of chronographs over the past few decades. From Meca-Quartz to full automatic, the French brand releases a new collection every year, if not more often. Each … ContinuedThe post The new Yema Rallye 5 Turbo goes deep into French car racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm presents subtle improvements Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm Mar 21, 2023

Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm presents subtle improvements

The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm is now available in three new variants The ML143 Sellita-based movement ticks inside Great everyday piece Watch enthusiasts, including myself, often search for watches with specific expectations. For example, I often find myself looking at dive watches with unnecessary amounts of water resistance. And there is nothing wrong … ContinuedThe post Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm presents subtle improvements appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vivified Air: Fortis Livens Up Their Flieger Collection with New Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Fortis Livens Up Their Flieger Mar 21, 2023

Vivified Air: Fortis Livens Up Their Flieger Collection with New Dial Colors

Human flight has long been an inspiration and a momentous force within Fortis’ history. Dating back to as early as 1929, Lady Grace Drummond-Hay completed the world’s first circumnavigation in a Zeppelin LZ127 – on her wrist, a Fortis Harwood. In 1995, Fortis was also a part of a record-breaking flight that took aeronautical photographer, Alexandre Paringaux, to an altitude of 30,045m, reaching speeds as high as Mach 3.13 in a Mig-25 PU. Around that time, Fortis had also released their first-ever Flieger, aptly named the Sky-watch. Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax Petrol Inspired by the functional designs of the B-Uhr harkening back to WWII, the Sky-watch had all the tell-tale features of a traditionally designed pilot’s watch – can’t miss Arabic hour numerals, triangular 12 o’clock marker, and sword hands. Up until today, particularly the use of a black dial, splash of orange accents, and sickly green markers and hands, that design has largely remained unchanged. Recently, Fortis has injected some color into their entire Flieger collection with an array of different dial colors giving their pilot’s watch a new-found contemporary energy. Fortis Flieger F-39 Petrol First up in the Fortis fleet, we have the Flieger F-39 and F-41 sporting three new dial colors: Black, Petrol, and Liberty Blue. The difference that immediately stands are the markers and hands that no longer have the faded luminova shade. Instead, they’ve been whited out, but still remain legible a...

Czapek Embraces Titanium in New Dark Sector Antarctique Worn & Wound
Czapek Embraces Titanium Mar 21, 2023

Czapek Embraces Titanium in New Dark Sector Antarctique

One of our favorite high-end independent brands of late has been Czapek, and their Antarctique collection, which has a seemingly endless range, from their remarkable openworked Rattrapante Chronograph, to the serene time-only Frozen Star. This week, the collection welcomes a new addition, in a new material, it’s the Titanium Dark Sector. This is a slightly different expression of the Antarctique design language that we’ve seen in the likes of the Passage De Drake, bringing a slate like appearance to the monotone frame with enough small details to capture your attention. It’s still a modern integrated design and houses the brand’s own showstopper movement, so if you’re a fan of the Antarctique but prefer toned down symmetry, this watch is likely to check all the boxes for you. The Titanium Dark Sector features an integrated case and bracelet design that’s rendered fully in titanium, which should make the 40.5mm diameter and 10.5mm thickness all the more svelte on the wrist. The bracelet integrates to the case via articulating central link that fits into the center of the case, allowing for an even flow around the wrist. Unlike the 38.5mm case Antarctique, this titanium bracelet will not feature chamfers on the final production model. Additionally, there will not be customization options on this watch other than a trio of strap options. The flat gray dial of the Dark Sector is sparse, with all the action happening toward the dial’s perimeter. Applied sections o...

Previously On: Watches & Wonders Geneva. Everything you need to get up to speed Time+Tide
Mar 21, 2023

Previously On: Watches & Wonders Geneva. Everything you need to get up to speed

I do not know about you guys, but I watch a fair bit of television and with so many shows and streaming platforms there is more content than ever before. But, whilst juggling all the different plot lines and narratives, nothing ticks me off more, at least in regard to TV, then when a series … ContinuedThe post Previously On: Watches & Wonders Geneva. Everything you need to get up to speed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen Takes a Big Step with a New Eco-Drive Movement in a 1970s Inspired Watch Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Mar 20, 2023

Citizen Takes a Big Step with a New Eco-Drive Movement in a 1970s Inspired Watch

A recurring theme that we’re seeing in the watch enthusiast space this year is a heightened interest in interesting quartz watches. It comes up all the time on our podcast, on Instagram, and certainly in the YouTube comments for our recent coverage of a quartz release from TAG Heuer. Clearly, there’s an appetite for this stuff, but it seems like the big Swiss brands are still a step behind their Japanese counterparts in terms of delivering watches that are high on value while pushing the envelope in terms of quartz tech. Exhibit A: Citizen, and their new Eco-Drive 365 line, which gives us a fairly substantial movement upgrade in a package that doesn’t look quite like anything else on the market.  The big news here is the introduction of the all new Caliber E365 Eco-Drive movement. As the name implies, these light powered movements have a running time of an entire year on a full charge. That’s an impressive accomplishment, just about doubling the running time of a standard Eco-Drive movement, which already made for the ideal watch to completely forget about in a sock drawer for months at a time. The new caliber is able to maximize power consumption for an even longer running time than previous movements while keeping the same 27mm diameter as its predecessor. The new E365 calibers are accurate to within 15 seconds per month.    For the first batch of E365 releases (which unfortunately won’t be available until fall of this year) Citizen is looking back to the e...

INTRODUCING: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II is more compact and more colourful than ever Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 C-GRAPH II Mar 20, 2023

INTRODUCING: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II is more compact and more colourful than ever

The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II brings the case size down from 45mm to 42mm. This is the first time DOXA’s famous dial colours have been given a sunburst finish. It’s a fantastic option for a gender-neutral diving chronograph. When DOXA dropped their first non-reissue chronograph back in late 2020, it was one of the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II is more compact and more colourful than ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Ellis is a stunning GMT with traditional sensibilities and contemporary looks Time+Tide
Mar 20, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Ellis is a stunning GMT with traditional sensibilities and contemporary looks

Collaboration often leads to the best results, and Stella is a brand born of collaboration. With the name formed out of the founders Stephen and Marcella’s names, you can tell that their partnership is really the core of the company. A passion for watches is common between them, and the meshing of Marcella’s creative brain … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Ellis is a stunning GMT with traditional sensibilities and contemporary looks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.