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Monochrome
Arnold & Son introduced its first integrated luxury sports watch last year with the Longitude Titanium, featuring three dial colours. The 2025 Longitude Titanium 5°W Edition is the latest variant with a single dial colour inspired by the hue of the North Atlantic’s surface as autumn storms approach. Specifically, it’s from the waters off Lizard […]
Monochrome
Now that is something paradoxical… An Urwerk watch equipped with centrally-mounted hands rotating traditionally on top of a round dial, with concentric counters underneath. That’s nothing what you’d expect to see from Urwerk, a brand known for its unconventional displays of the time with wandering hours and satellites. Look at our retrospective of the entire […]
SJX Watches
On episode 14 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon Moore and SJX unpack the new Louis Vuitton Monterey and discuss where fashion brands fit in the contemporary fine watchmaking landscape. Are collectors who ignore these kinds of products intellectually lazy? We also cover the latest from Lange, which just added a stone onyx dial to the Saxonia Thin – is it the perfect watch for your next soiree? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.
Deployant
Glashütte Original and MEISSEN unite two pillars of Saxon craftsmanship in the Senator MEISSEN collection-a trio of limited-edition timepieces that blend horological precision with porcelain artistry. Each model features a hand-painted MEISSEN porcelain dial housed in a 40mm red gold case, powered by the automatic calibre 36-16. The Mystic Maison editions in white and celadon green are limited to 150 pieces each and priced at $30,300, while the Collage edition, limited to just 8 pieces, retails at $36,400.
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis continues its decade-long exploration of Arthurian mythos with The Enchanter Merlin, the twelfth iteration in its fantastical Knights of the Round Table (KRT) collection, and the second Merlin-themed watch in the series. At the heart of the spectacle is a highly architectural dial composed of 56 stepped columns, inspired by the basalt pillars of Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. The columns are rendered in a variety of materials, including Murano glass, vitreous enamel, and invisibly set diamonds. Above them stand 12 hand-engraved knights, each a unique character from the Matter of Britain, the medieval tales of King Arthur and his knights. Initial Thoughts Geneva has a long tradition in the decorative arts dating to the 18th century, mostly focused on enamelled boxes, small clocks, and of course, watches. It’s only natural that a Genevan watchmaker like Roger Dubius would continue that tradition, as do neighbouring Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. In 2013, Roger Dubius launched the first KRT watch with a miniature enamel replica of the famous Round Table in Winchester’s Great Hall. Since then Roger Dubuis has pushed the boundaries of what can be reasonably called a “table” with striking results. While the miniatures were what made the first KRT special, The Enchanter Merlin’s basalt pillar-inspired crystal palace dial could easily stand on its own (perhaps Kollokium should take notes for its next Projekt). The 45 mm case is 18k pink gol...
SJX Watches
Following last year’s Arsham Droplet pocket watch, Daniel Arsham has just unveiled his second collaboration with Hublot, the MP-17 MECA-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire. One of the leading artists in pop culture, Daniel Arsham was inspired by the fluidity of a water droplet, explaining the streamlined, pebble-like wristwatch with an intriguing asymmetrical dial framed by a frosted sapphire crystal bezel. Mr Arsham has collaborated with brands as diverse as Porsche and Pokemon, and here he applies his aesthetic to Hublot’s Big Bang Meca-10. While the aesthetic is unlike any other Hublot, the movement inside is familiar: one of Hublot’s most interesting movements, the Meca-10 calibre with a 10-day power reserve, which was just facelifted this year to fit smaller format cases. Initial thoughts The Arsham Splash starts with a good base: the cal. 1205 Meca-10 movement is appealing both in terms of aesthetics and function. The geometric styling of the skeletonised construction is inspired by Meccano, the children’s construction toy, while the power reserve is an impressive 240 hours. I like much of the movement, except for the Etachron regulator that I would have hoped Hublot would have replaced in this second-generation Meca-10 movement but it’s still there. Still, the Meca-10 is a logical fit for the Arsham Splash both in terms of form and function. The form of the Arsham Splash is unorthodox. Though the case has some familiar Hublot elements like the flared fl...
Monochrome
Kollokium, the project-led collective founded in 2020 by Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer and Amr Sindi (The Horophile), follows its debut series with a second, fundamentally different object. Projekt 02 pivots from the “pin dial” language of Projekt 01 to a sculptural, topographical dial built from stacked plates, housed in a slimmer monobloc case. The Friends, […]
Monochrome
MeisterSinger’s new Kaenos DLC editions build directly on the debut model from earlier this year (integrated steel bracelet, sport-chic geometry) and give it a bolder, graphic look. Two limited references bring a black DLC case, a luminous golden-yellow sandwich dial, and the first leather-strap fitment for the Kaenos line. And while a combination of yellow […]
Monochrome
Raymond Weil adds a new reference to its elegant and handsome Millesime Moon Phase 35mm with a Japan-exclusive Special Edition overseen by Masayuki Hirota, Editor-in-Chief of Chronos Japan Edition. The watch retains the compact proportions, sector-dial grammar, and restrained vintage cues that made the 35mm Millesime line such a hit, then sharpens it with a two-tone […]
SJX Watches
In a first, Cartier has just unveiled the Santos de Cartier LM in titanium. Its flagship sports watch now features a case and matching bracelet in matte, bead-blasted titanium – specifically grade 23 titanium – while retaining all of the other familiar Santos design elements, including the exposed screws and traditional silvered dial. The Santos in titanium is powered by the same industrial 1847 MC movement found in its steel counterpart, and costs about 20% more, but has a great deal more tactile appeal. The watch is large, lightweight, and low-key. Initial thoughts The Santos was originally conceived as a sports watch in 1904, albeit not of the sort known today. The original was an aviator’s watch, but a tiny and thin watch more comparable to a 21st century dress watch. That history, however, meant that Cartier has rolled out several sporty-ish versions of the Santos in the past. It’s surprising that it took Cartier this long to put together a Santos in titanium. The smooth, blasted case finish has a great deal of tactile appeal, and the muted, matte aesthetic is equally appealing. Some might see this as being way too similar to the steel model – the two are indistinguishable at a distance – but that is part of its appeal. Almost twins, titanium (left) with a bead-blasted finish, and steel with a brushed finish and polished bezel Though the material is different, the exterior finishing is almost identical to that of the steel model, except that the brushed fi...
Fratello
Stylish, thought through, sophisticated… These are just a few words to describe the 35mm Japan-only Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase. This limited edition of 100 pieces was brought to life with Masayuki Hirota, the editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan Edition. The small watch is clearly a historically inspired Millesime, with its sector dial marking the hours, […] Visit Introducing: A 35mm Japan-Exclusive Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton returns to its watchmaking roots with a recreation of its first-ever wristwatch, the Monterey. The remake sticks closely to the aesthetics of the original designed by architect Gae Aulenti in 1988, but is made to modern standards. While the original was a design-oriented creation with a high-tech (for the time) quartz movement, today’s Monterey is high-end in every way – case, dial, and movement are all contemporary high horology. Initial Thoughts The Monterey is an unapologetically nostalgic watch, and a yardstick against which Louis Vuitton measures its progress. In 1988, the Parisian malletier made its first foray into the watch market with Montre I, a private label affair produced by IWC and designed by Gae Aulenti. The 1988 watch was an impressive in terms of design and concept, but somewhat dinky in terms of tech: a multifunction quartz watch in gold powered by an IWC quartz movement that is no longer reparable. (It is also worth nothing that follow-up Montre II was clad in ceramic, possibly hinting at a sequel to this limited edition.) Now, Louis Vuitton wants the world to know it can make make a watch itself, only relying on external suppliers for the very most specialised components – and to a much higher standard than the Montre of the past. And the Monterey (a play on the American mispronunciation of montre, French for watch) completely eclipses the original in quality – much like the recent revival of Daniel Roth by Louis Vuitton. The Mont...
SJX Watches
Almost exactly a year after the Lange 1 with an onyx dial, A. Lange & Söhne is following up with the Saxonia Thin Onyx. It’s essentially an upgraded version of Lange’s simplest and most affordable model, replacing the conventional silver dial with one of polished onyx stone. Available in either platinum or Honeygold – each is limited to 200 pieces – the Saxonia Thin Onyx is even more of a formal dress watch than its regular production counterpart. Notably, both variants are unique editions of the model as neither platinum or Honeygold is part of the standard offering. Initial thoughts Last year’s Lange 1 30th Anniversary with an onyx dial was an exceedingly simple but extremely appealing watch. Lange has applied the same formula to the Saxonia Thin with equal success. Admittedly, the makeover isn’t imaginative or novel, but the result is striking. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is utterly simple yet unusually reflective thanks to the polished stone dial. The look and feel is that of an ideal black tie watch. It’s probably a bit too concise and shiny for everyday wear, but I wouldn’t mind one on the wrist. Choosing between the two is difficult. They are very different yet very much the same. Both, in fact, retail for exactly the same. The platinum version has a slight edge for me, simply because of general preference for the metal. The new dial and case metal, however, come at a hefty premium. The standard model in gold retails for a bit under US$25,000, while the o...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Longines Spirit Pilot watch collection was released back in 2020 and I recall going hands-on with the then-new pilot’s watches, which were a blend of contemporary with a dash of vintage styling. Since then, the brand has clearly listened to the response from enthusiasts who have been generally receptive to the collection, but with some consistent points of criticism. Namely, the five stars on the dial were divisive and even though it comes in 37,40, and 42mm case sizes, none felt like they hit that “Goldilocks” zone for a lot of people. Fortunately for those buyers, Longines just dropped two new watches that might be the best in the collection so far: the Longines Spirit 39mm three-hand and the new Flyback in a 39.5mm case. Longines Spirit 39mm Pilot's Watch First, let's look at the Spirit Pilot three-hand watch which comes in a stainless steel case measuring 39mm wide and 11.5mm thick with a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm. While the gap between 39mm and 40mm doesn’t sound too dramatic, the latter has a lug-to-lug that measures just shy of 50mm which is simply too big for a lot of people. And 37mm is just too small for many of those same people. So, with that established, it’s not hard to see why this 39mm case size is so well received. The rest of the case is simple enough with alternating brushed and polished finishes, a sleek bezel, and a domed sapphire crystal with dual-sided AR coating. Finally, it also offers 100 meters of water resistance. Then there...
SJX Watches
Voutilainen turns the popular three-hand formula inside out to put the movement front and centre, now with a titanium cushion-case for the first time. The KV20i Reversed CS is not revolutionary, instead building on the KV20i Reversed Cherry from last year, but the movement remains one of the best in its segment, with hands, case, and half of a dial to match. Initial Thoughts Kari Voutilainen is a seminal figure in independent watchmaking, partly responsible for the popularity of elaborately decorated three-hand watches with dazzling guilloche dials – and not just because his company, Comblémine, makes a good number of those guilloche dials for other brands. Mr Voutilainen was at least a decade ahead of his time with his Observatoire of 2007, a watch that, alongside Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity, cultivated a market for this format. Nearly two decades later, his watches stand out less aesthetically, but his quality remains superlative – and has even improved. An Observatoire made in 2007, now 18 years old. Image – Phillips The cushion-shaped case is a new variable in a familiar formula, taking after the unique TP1 pocket watch Kari and Venla Voutilainen made for Only Watch 2019. Four prominent security screws hold the case together, and make for a more contemporary aesthetic that works well with Kari’s already pleasantly eclectic style. And for better or worse (depending on the collector’s taste) the Reversed CS leaves ample room for customisation. Beyond the c...
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre has just introduced the Master Control Calendar Limited Edition, the latest addition to a long line of triple calendar watches going back decades. Packaged in the 40 mm Master Control case we’ve become familiar with, this new 500-piece stainless steel limited edition is all about the dial, which features a richly textured silver and grey livery on a “sector” layout. Despite the classical aesthetic, the Master Control Date is thoroughly modern on the inside with the cal. 866 featuring a silicon escapement that supports a 70-hour power reserve. Initial thoughts The triple calendar moon phase has long been a staple of the Jaeger-LeCoultre line-up; Pablo Picasso famously wore one. Add to this lineage the brand’s unique jumping date pointer, which jumps in a wide arc from the 15th to the 16th of the month to avoid confounding the moon phase display, and the result is a watch that manages to be both charming and technically distinctive. It’s also easily wearable in a 40 mm case, that, while larger than the vintage originals, gives the indicators on the dial plenty of space to breathe. Of course, the movement is the cal. 866, effectively a cal. 899 with a triple calendar module, which helps keeps the overall package quite sleek at 10.95 mm – on par with many simple time-and-date watches in this category. Upgraded a few years ago with a silicon escapement, the movement now runs for 70 hours when fully wound, adding convenience to wearability. Naturall...
SJX Watches
The Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding is the brand’s first manual-wind moon phase, and also the first in years with a solid dial, making it a refreshing change of pace from the brand’s usual fare that leans towards open-worked and occasionally over-designed styling. Initial Thoughts Excepting the vintage inspired Diver 1964, the M45 F8 moon phase is the most attractive watch in the Orient catalog to my eye. Most of the brand’s designs are too busy for my tastes, so these entries are a welcome departure that will certainly appeal to enthusiasts with more classical tastes. The moon phase disk itself, with mother-of-pearl inlay, is a highlight. And the absence of a seconds hand is a pleasant surprise, though the moon phase sub-dial feels naked without the traditional co-axial small seconds hand. Since the small seconds version of this calibre is not compatible with the moon phase module, Orient could have moved the Orient Star logo onto the sub-dial for more visual balance. Most importantly, this is a manually wound watch – with a competent movement – in a price segment where such things are hard to find. Looking at Japanese watches in particular, manual wind options from Grand Seiko and Credor are significantly more expensive, while Seiko, Orient, and Citizen dropped their entry-level manual watches years ago. Pleiades About two years ago, Orient Star reorganised its catalog by launching M Collections, a family of watches each named after astron...
Deployant
Citizen's new Series 8 890 takes the architecture-inspired case with golden plating with a dazzling frappé dial reminiscent of a metropolis at night.
Fratello
Glashütte Original was founded in 1845, and to commemorate this milestone, the brand has unveiled a stunning new PanoLunarTourbillon. As we’ll see, the watch showcases the best of the manufacture, featuring an in-house movement and dial. With a limited production run and flagship status, this watch won’t be for everyone, but it’s a great example […] Visit Looking At The New Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon to read the full article.
Monochrome
When you think about Tudor, you probably have in mind the image of a cool Submariner-inspired dive watch, with a retro-styled case and dial, and a solid manufacture movement by Kenissi inside. What I’ve just described is basically the Black Bay collection, which has been the brand’s cornerstone for over a decade. With this in […]
Monochrome
Formex, founded in 2000, is renowned for its rugged action watches. The brand’s bestselling Essence, a sporty, all-terrain model with sharp case architecture, a patented suspension system, and COSC-certified movements, made its debut in 2018 and was refreshed in 2021 with a wider range of dial colours. Marking its 25th anniversary, Formex released its first […]
Worn & Wound
It’s all about case and dial materials these days in the design world it seems, and Bell & Ross have certainly not shied away from experimentation. The French brand expands their repertoire of big, brash, and blocky timepieces with the new BR-X3 line, conceived as an avant-garde interpretation of the classic BR-03 design, and a cousin of the popular BR-X5, featuring two new models: Titanium Black and Blue Steel. While the names of these new references are straightforward, their designs are everything but. Both feature the iconic rounded-square look that graces most Bell & Ross watches, with a round dial accentuated by a square case. Both cases measure 41mm in diameter, but likely wear bigger due to their shape and 13.30mm thickness. Three-plate dial construction, an openworked rubber strap, an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and 100 meters of water resistance are also standard on both watches. As a final shared element, both references are powered by a Calibre BR-CAL.323 automatic mechanical movement, which promises a hefty power reserve of 70- hours. The differences between the two BR-X3 models are easily explained by their nomenclature, but worth diving into further nonetheless. Titanium watches are massively popular these days, and for good reason: they wear incredibly light on the wrist, regardless of size, and promise durability in spite of that weight. The Titanium Black BR-X3 follows that trend, featuring a micro-blasted grade 2 titanium case in an appropriate...
Fratello
Independent watchmaking is often most interesting when it balances tradition with something fresh. That is exactly what Nicolas Delaloye has done with the Renaissance. On paper, it’s a classical dress watch with an enamel dial and a hand-wound movement. However, the case is made of tantalum, one of the most intriguing and difficult metals to […] Visit Introducing: The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance In Tantalum to read the full article.
Monochrome
Dial colours are an integral part of Doxa‘s iconic diving story. From the blazing Professional Orange that defined the SUB 300 in the 1960s to today’s rainbow of professional-grade divers, the brand has always known how to pair serious underwater credentials with a playful edge. Now, in collaboration with Watches of Switzerland, Doxa introduces a […]
SJX Watches
After several years with no additions to its line up, Roger W. Smith recently revealed the Series 6. Essentially a variation of the Series 4 triple calendar, the Series 6 is a time and date – hours, minutes, and seconds, plus the brand’s own “travelling date” that takes the form of a peripheral pointer under the main dial. Much of the watch is familiar, including the architecture of the movement and finishing, but the Series 6 does enjoy several upgrades over earlier watches, including the latest version of the single wheel co-axial escapement. Initial thoughts The Series 6 is quintessential Roger W. Smith in look, feel, and execution (and price). The aesthetic is familiar and certainly well loved, while the quality of execution is high. While its watches may not be hand “made,” they are certainly hand finished and the Series 6 illustrates that with its engine-turned dial, hand-made hands, and hand-engraved movement. The under-dial mechanism for the date and keyless works are especially beautiful, despite being concealed. I imagine this approach to the hidden parts is not merely a watchmaker’s vanity; I expect an open-dial version to come along in due time – if it has not already been ordered by a client. The Series 6 also demonstrates the advances made by the brand in terms of manufacturing. Equipped with modern equipment like CNC mills, Roger W. Smith watches today are far, far, far more refined than its earliest creations. Like the brand’s other watche...
Fratello
Last year, Tissot surprised us with a special-edition PRX featuring a lumed Grendizer on its blue dial. This year marks the 50th anniversary of the anime icon, so Tissot is back with yet another watch paying tribute to UFO Robot Grendizer. This time, the PRX received an all-black PVD treatment. Also, the layered black dial […] Visit Introducing: The Tissot PRX UFO Robot Grendizer 50th Anniversary Special Edition to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
If you’re new to your appreciation of fine watches, you have undoubtedly read a lot of references to and heard a lot of opinions about watches’ bezels. It is somewhat of an esoteric term but it describes something very simple and essential. The bezel is the front part of the case (often but not always ring-shaped) that frames the dial and secures the crystal. Bezels can be made of the same material as the case middle and/or the caseback, but can also be made of a different material. Here we run down the various types of watch bezels you’re likely to encounter. Polygons and Exposed Screws Watch cases, of course, are not uniformly round, which means that bezels, the front-facing parts of those cases, can also be found in a variety of shapes - sharply squared or rectangular, like the Cartier Tank and Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (above); softy cushion-shaped, like the Panerai Luminor and Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921; oval-shaped, like the Breguet Reine de Naples and other luxury ladies’ models; tonneau (“barrel”-shaped), like the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang and many Richard Mille models; and a host of others that combine elements of these and other polygonal shapes. The shape that has proven to be the most popular and influential is the octagon: eight-sided bezels have proliferated ever since Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak (above) in 1972, and watchmakers have also dabbled in other unconventional shapes: the sharply faceted bezel of the Zeni...
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko has been fairly quiet over the summer, but has just unveiled the latest addition to its Evolution 9 collection, the “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007. Effectively a new variant of the “Birch Bark” SLGW003 with a steel case and navy blue dial, the Moonlit Birch is a competent alternative to its titanium stablemate. In other words, it’s an attractive new livery for what was already a compelling watch, and retains its best characteristics including a nuanced and ergonomic case, gorgeous dial furniture, and the brand’s latest manually wound cal. 9SA4 movement. Initial thoughts The original “Birch Bark” launched last year and was one of the standout releases at Watches & Wonders due to its elegant case profile and impressive new movement. The Moonlit Birch is identical in most respects, but the case is stainless steel, rather than titanium, and the dial is finished in navy blue instead of bright white. Despite these modest differences, the Moonlit Birch is appealing in its own right. The dial texture is subtle, but it’s enough of a Grand Seiko calling card to prevent the watch from looking too generic; a common trap for time-only dress watches. The stainless steel case exhibits the brand’s Evolution 9 styling, which gives the Moonlit Birch a bold, angular presence. In answer to the demand for slimmer options from Grand Seiko, the dimensions are nearly ideal, 38.6 mm in diameter and just under 10 mm thick. The watch is powered by the cal. 9SA4, which is pa...
Teddy Baldassarre
Aside from the watch that was made legendary by Paul Newman - and which would forever, unofficially, carry the famous actor’s name - there is probably no version of the Rolex Daytona that is more coveted than the “Rainbow” models that bring a meticulously designed and eye-catchingly beautiful assortment of colorful precious stones to the bezel, case, and dial of the motorsport-inspired luxury chronograph. Here is the story behind the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” and why it has become yet another smash hit for the Crown in the 21st Century. To start off, it’s worth answering the question, “Why is the Rolex Daytona so famous in the first place?” The model’s success story begins in 1962, when Rolex, hot on the heels of other genre-defining watch releases like the Explorer, GMT-Master, and Submariner several years earlier, became the official timekeeper of the “Great American Race,” the Daytona 500. In celebration of the partnership, the Swiss brand introduced its original “Cosmograph” racing-inspired chronograph watch the following year. The watch, notable for its tachymeter bezel and three-register dial design, adopted the name “Daytona” shortly thereafter and really took the enthusiast community by storm when actor, director, and part-time racecar driver Paul Newman began wearing one regularly. Newman became a big-screen icon in the 1970s, around the same time that auto racing took off in popularity as a spectator sport, and this confluence of...
SJX Watches
Tissot reissues the iconic RockWatch of 1985, now in a larger case but once again made of granite sourced from the Swiss Alps. Although Tissot took a few liberties to suit modern tastes, such upsizing the case to 38 mm and adding monochromatic hands, the new RockWatch is impressive for its fidelity to the original, and retains all of the important details including its one-piece case and dial. Limited to 999 pieces, the RockWatch extends Tissot’s run of mining gems from its back catalogue. Initial thoughts Tissot has been digging through its archives for over a decade now. After excavating the enormously successful PRX in 2021, the colourful Sideral in 2023, and long-dormant Stylist last year, Tissot has finally hit bedrock. Watch cases carved from stone predate even the balance spring, but remained extremely niche and were often quite expensive until Tissot’s original 1985 RockWatch. While originally launched in Alpine marble, the line expanded to include numerous other materials. Historical RockWatches were produced in a variety of materials and featured red and yellow hands inspired by Alpine trail markers. As with most modern reissues, the 38 mm RockWatch is significantly larger than the originals, which were offered in 23 mm, 30 mm, and 33 mm sizes. In addition, modern AR-coated sapphire stands in for the tempered glass crystal of the original. Though larger, the construction is consistent with that of the original with its monobloc case and dial, which are milled...
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