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Hands-On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5004J-017 “Michael Ovitz” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5004J-017 “Michael Ovitz” Nov 26, 2022

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5004J-017 “Michael Ovitz”

Going on the block at Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction is the Patek Philippe ref. 5004J “Michael Ovitz”. It’s lot 2520 and one of the watches from The Triazza Collection, an impressive accumulation of watches owned by a prominent Hong Kong businessman. The collection is heavy on Patek Philippe. Amongst the other timepieces in the collection is the Patek Philippe tourbillon pocket watch that won first prize at the Geneva Observatory in 1931 (which is also being offered in the same auction) and the Patek Philippe ref. 2499 that once belonged to Eric Clapton (but is not for sale, yet). “MSO” – Michael Steven Ovitz The “MSO” initials on this ref. 5004J instantly reveal it was one of the many, I would two dozen at least, special-order watches that Patek Philippe made for Michael Ovitz starting in 2011. Often described as a “super agent”, Mr Ovitz cofounded Creative Artists Agency (CAA), once the dominant talent agency in Hollywood. After a short-lived spell at Disney, he’s now known for his impressive art collection, some of which is on show in his equally impressive home in California. Though the reason behind Patek Philippe’s accommodation of Mr Ovitz is not publicly known, industry lore has it that the watches were an expression of gratitude by the Sterns after Mr Ovitz assisted them in a significant way. Mr Ovitz has only commented on these watches publicly once, in a 2021 article in Robb Report: “It was the first time Ovitz, who has be...

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Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 23, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction

Having looked at some of the most fascinating pocket watches and clocks on offer at Christie’s Important Watches auction that happens soon in Hong Kong, we now turn to attention to the genre that many collectors are now pursuing, independent watchmaking. As expected, amongst the offerings going on the block are works from the big names like F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and H. Moser & Cie. But beyond the usual suspects, the sale also encompasses hidden gems, like the highly complicated tourbillon perpetual calendar by Gerald Genta presented as a Cartier Pasha. The Important Watches auction (lots 2306-2523), including watches from The Triazza Collection, begins at 1 pm on November 27 – the catalogue is available here. It’s followed by the second session (lots 2201-2282) offering watches from The Champion Collection at 7 pm – see the full catalogue here. The fully-engraved Gerald Genta movement inside the Cartier Pasha Lot 2382: Cartier Pasha Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Considered one of the most successful watch designers of the 20th century – though his most influential designs were for Audemars Piguet and the Patek Philippe rather than his own – Gerald Genta was also responsible for some of the most complicated watches of the 1980s and 1990s when his namesake brand was at its peak. In fact, the Genta brand was so proficient at making highly complex watches that Cartier tapped Gerald Genta as a movement supplier for its top-of-the-line complications in the 19...

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12 "Cheap" Watches That Look More Expensive Than They Are Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 22, 2022

12 "Cheap" Watches That Look More Expensive Than They Are

There are a lot of cheap watches out there, and to be honest, many of them look the part. Making a watch that is inexpensive enough to appeal to a broad audience yet also capable of impressing a discerning watch enthusiast with its build quality, finishing, movement, and design is a challenging task for even the most experienced and resourceful of watch manufacturers. The brands and models we spotlight below, in our humble opinion, successfully tread the line between entry-level value (prices range from under $100 to just shy of $600) and noteworthy quality and aesthetics.  Casio Vintage Gold A168GW-9VT Price: $65, Reference: A168GW-9VT, Case Size: 38.6mm x 36.3mm, Case Height: 9.6mm, Crystal: Resin Glass, Water Resistance: Water-Resistant, Movement: Quartz Digital While its most iconic contribution to the watch world is undoubtedly the mega-popular G-Shock, Japan’s Casio offers different styles of digital timekeeping in its retro-influenced Vintage series, the most “expensive-looking” of which is this gold-toned model with a rectangular resin case, a stainless steel bracelet, and an electro-luminescent backlit display screen. The watch features an array of useful functions including a 1/100-second stopwatch with elapsed times and split times, daily alarms, hourly time signals, an auto-calendar, and timekeeping options in both 12-hour and 24-hour format. Best of all, this combination of high functionality and gilded flair can be had for under $70. Scurfa Diver O...

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HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph is now available in 38mm Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph Nov 22, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph is now available in 38mm

Hamilton is an industry leader for watch cameos in film. Their timepieces have been interwoven into many silver screen narratives, with recent Christopher Nolan movies like Interstellar and Tenet a prime example of a watch not just simply being placed on an actor, but also a core element and story device of the plot as well. In Interstellar, the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph is now available in 38mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Interview: Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director at TAG Heuer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Oct 20, 2022

Interview: Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director at TAG Heuer

A Briton who has been the Heritage Director at TAG Heuer since March 2021, Nicholas Biebuyck is in charge of the brand’s museum and archives. Like his peers at other brands, Mr Biebuyck’s role goes beyond historical papers and vintage watches. He participates in product development and marketing, while being a brand ambassador, especially in bringing the brand to enthusiasts and collectors. But Mr Biebuyck also experienced a swathe of the watch industry prior to his role at TAG Heuer. He was previously a watch specialist at Bonhams and then Christie’s before joining Blackbird Watch Manual, a specialist magazine based in Hong Kong. Mr Biebuyck, who now lives in Switzerland with his family, also gained an insight into the art of managing clients with earlier stints as a “Genius” in an Apple Store and then marketing private-jet charters in Africa. The hand-finished movement in the one-off Monaco Only Watch 2021, a hint of where TAG Heuer might be headed And so Mr Biebuyck was wearing several hats when he was in Singapore recently during the Formula 1 Grand Prix weekend, when TAG Heuer staged an exhibition dedicated to its history in motorsports. We got the opportunity to quiz him on several topics, including where TAG Heuer is headed and how the brand balances its glamorous motorsports history with its avant-garde innovation. And we also gain his thoughts on the vintage Heuer market, especially after the high watermark of the Heuer thematic auction in 2017. SJX: ...

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution Time+Tide
Maen Oct 17, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution

The concept of evolution over revolution is more than a catchy phrase, it also shows the dedication that a company has to perfecting a concept. Between the Manhattan, the Skymaster and the Hudson, Maen are a brand of structure and refinement. No detail goes unconsidered, and the result is something both charming and holistic. The … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Our Predictions In The Tourbillon Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): To Win This The Tourbillon Needs To Be Very Special Quill & Pad
Oct 7, 2022

Our Predictions In The Tourbillon Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): To Win This The Tourbillon Needs To Be Very Special

Five of the six watches in this Tourbillon category are either openworked or dial-less, so their visuals are not dissimilar. Five of the six are also one-minute tourbillons. One-half of the finalists have flying tourbillons, while another boasts a cylindrical tourbillon, and yet another has a constant-force tourbillon. How will our panel ever choose a winner?

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The Dirty Dozen: History’s Most Legendary Field Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 7, 2022

The Dirty Dozen: History’s Most Legendary Field Watches

When it comes to collectible vintage military watches, there are the famed “Dirty Dozen” and then there is everything else. Twelve field watches from twelve different Swiss watchmakers, all made within the last two years of World War II and issued to British servicemen, the Dirty Dozen watches represent a rare confluence between horological and military history, while also claiming a coveted spot in the annals of war memorabilia. What brands and watches make up the Dirty Dozen, what is their story, and why are they so legendary today? Read on. Wristwatches came into general usage for men during World War I. While pocket watches were still in vogue for social situations, they proved impractical for troops on the battlefield, who needed the use of both hands in combat situations, such as for loading one’s rifle while simultaneously checking his watch to determine the distance of incoming artillery fire. Watchmakers at the time responded to the demands of warfare in a rather makeshift way at first, re-engineering pocket watch cases with soldered strips of wire to connect them to straps of leather or canvas for wrist wear. While these “trench watches” were effective at the time, advances in military equipment, technology, and strategies in subsequent years necessitated a more purposeful approach to watchmaking as a Second World War erupted in Europe, barely two decades after the end of the so-called War to End all Wars. According to some historical accounts, it was ...

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Manime La F is a watch dedicated to the theme of friendship Time+Tide
Oct 3, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Manime La F is a watch dedicated to the theme of friendship

The most popular watches at the moment are often surrounded by a contextual suffering. Military watches have quite a dark theme, and you could make the argument that dive watches are also the embodiment of surviving harsh conditions. In practice, most watch fans use their watches as extensions of their own tastes instead of life-or-death … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Manime La F is a watch dedicated to the theme of friendship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Luminox Air Pilot-38 Lightning® 9520 has a dial that will glow without charge for 25 years Time+Tide
Luminox Oct 2, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Luminox Air Pilot-38 Lightning® 9520 has a dial that will glow without charge for 25 years

The phrase “tool watch” seems a bit laughable to some in a world of smartphones, smartwatches, and a world where luxury steel sports watches cost more than ever. Many of these steel tool watches are now among the most hyped and sought-after references around the world. Also, when you consider some collectors even look into … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Luminox Air Pilot-38 Lightning® 9520 has a dial that will glow without charge for 25 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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How I managed to buy the MoonSwatch full set without paying one cent over the retail price Time+Tide
Sep 30, 2022

How I managed to buy the MoonSwatch full set without paying one cent over the retail price

Ronald Chew (aka Horologym) is a watch collector based in Singapore. But he’s also one of the few people in the world who has managed to beat the queues and the flippers to assemble a complete set of the MoonSwatch. What makes this achievement even more impressive is that Ronald didn’t spend big on the … ContinuedThe post How I managed to buy the MoonSwatch full set without paying one cent over the retail price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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15 Rugged Watches, From Under $300 to $10,000+ Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 23, 2022

15 Rugged Watches, From Under $300 to $10,000+

Some occasions call for a suit, some for jeans, khakis, and t-shirts. Some events demand a dressy watch, others a tough, rugged watch that can take a beating. If the latter style of timepiece is what you're in the market for lately, check out our list of 15 tough, rugged watches (in ascending order of price) that not only boast impressive levels of functionality, reliability, and resistance to extreme depths, temperatures, and shocks, but also look very stylish on the wrist.  Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Diver 200m Price: $280, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 11.6mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Citizen Eco-Drive E168  Citizen unveiled its Promaster line of professional-grade sports watches in 1989 and its Promaster Diver models - equipped with the Japanese brand’s proprietary Eco-Drive technology, which uses light to perpetually charge the movement - have proven to be among the most popular of Citizen’s vast portfolio of timepieces. The 44mm steel case features a 60-click rotating bezel made of aluminum (here in maritime blue) and a screw-down crown positioned at 4 o’clock. The blue dial sports wide hands and large applied hour markers, all generously lumed for underwater visibility, and a date window at 4 o’clock. The prominent minute hand with its orange detailing adds another layer of contrast, and hence legibility, to the dial. The Eco-Drive movement offers six months of power on a full charge and boasts an accuracy of ...

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Why would anyone put a dive watch on a leather/synthetic hybrid strap? Time+Tide
Sep 19, 2022

Why would anyone put a dive watch on a leather/synthetic hybrid strap?

The debate has raged on for years over putting dive watches on leather straps. It’s a fairly straight-forward argument for and against, with compelling reasonings on both sides. It’s true that having a leather strap goes against the subaquatic purposes that a dive watch is built for, but it’s also true that people rarely even … ContinuedThe post Why would anyone put a dive watch on a leather/synthetic hybrid strap? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Panerai Introduces the Luminor Moon Phase for Ladies SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Sep 19, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Moon Phase for Ladies

A compact take on the signature Panerai watch that made its debut in 2016, the Luminor Due is essentially a scaled-down version of the military-inspired original, which allows it to wear easily on smaller wrists. To date, the Luminor Due has remained minimalist, making do without complications save for a date display. But now Panerai gone for something slightly more elaborate with the Luminor Due Luna that has a small seconds and moon phase display featuring a solid-gold moon disc. Initial thoughts I like the compact size of the Due, as well as its more formal styling that allows it to double as a dress watch. Although the original, full-size Luminor is a clean, almost elegant design, its massive size and stark aesthetics means it can only be a military-style watch. The Due, on the other hand, manages to preserve the outline of the original Luminor while being modestly elegant. For that reason, the new Luna is an appealing watch. At just 38 mm wide, it is clearly more wearable, while the engraved, solid-gold moon gives it a bit of sparkle. And the all-gold model comes along with a mother of pearl dial, making it even more luxe. Interestingly, the Luminor Due is largely targeted at female clientele, but models have a masculine aesthetic. That continues with the Luna, which is available in steel with a metallic blue dial, a combination leaves it looking very much like a conventional men’s watch. The dial design is largely classical Panerai, although the proportions seem a...

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The top 5 Doxa limited editions Time+Tide
Doxa limited editions Doxa are Aug 27, 2022

The top 5 Doxa limited editions

Doxa are a legend among revived Swiss watch brands, with a rich back catalogue of products to pull from that maintain an intense cult following. Their quirky designs are full of vintage flair and mystique, yet they’ve also proven themselves to be trailblazers in modern trends such as carbon fibre construction and refurbished movements. While … ContinuedThe post The top 5 Doxa limited editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Porsche Edition can talk to your car (assuming it’s a Porsche) Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected Porsche Edition can Aug 12, 2022

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Porsche Edition can talk to your car (assuming it’s a Porsche)

When car manufacturers and watch brands team up, the word ‘heritage’ gets thrown around a lot. It’s true that watchmaking and motorsport have gone hand in hand for decades and they have a lot of shared history to pull from, but it may also be that mechanical watches just can’t escape that rose-tinted prison of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Porsche Edition can talk to your car (assuming it’s a Porsche) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands On: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe “Cortina Watch” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Aug 5, 2022

Hands On: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe “Cortina Watch”

Created for the 50th anniversary of Cortina Watch, which is also marking the occasion with a special Patek Philippe Calatrava, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary is an elegantly different take on Blancpain’s vintage-inspired dive watch. With a titanium case matched with a bezel and crown in fade-resistant Sedna gold, the Cortina edition dresses up the functional style of the ordinarily no-frills Bathyscaphe. Originally launched in 2013 as the entry-level – and most compact – model in the Fifty Fathoms collection, the Bathyscaphe was previously only available in single materials, making this two-tone version a first. In fact, the Bathyscaphe Cortina the first Blancpain dive watch with a bi-metal case, but it’ll probably not be the last since the combination is appealing. The hands and hour indices are also 18k Sedna gold Initial thoughts The Bathyscaphe is a handsome watch that has good proportions. It doesn’t feel as large as it measures and wears well. And it is especially lightweight in titanium, so it sits easily on the wrist. In its original variants the Bathyscaphe is muted (in either the steel, ceramic, or titanium versions), or expensive and shiny (in Sedna gold). The Cortina edition is a useful variation on the theme that’s still restrained, but with a little bit of shine. The Sedna gold accents work especially well on the watch because of its retro style. They bring to mind vintage dive watches with “gilt” dials. Admit...

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Time+Tide City Watch Buying Guide – Paris Time+Tide
Aug 4, 2022

Time+Tide City Watch Buying Guide – Paris

Paris has many flattering nicknames from the “City of Love” to “the Fashion Capital”, and while it’s thoroughly earned both of those monikers, it should also be known for its important milestones in horology and design. From 18th century innovations to modern trendsetting, Paris is a central hub in watchmaking that could even rival some … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide City Watch Buying Guide – Paris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands On: Panerai Radiomir Bronzo PAM00760 SJX Watches
Panerai Radiomir Bronzo PAM00760 Launched Aug 3, 2022

Hands On: Panerai Radiomir Bronzo PAM00760

Launched quietly in May this year, the Radiomir Bronzo PAM00760 is the first substantially new Radiomir model in a long time. Besides being the first Radiomir with bronze case, the PAM 760 is also the first “Events Edition” – a limited-production model that will only be available during dinners hosted by Panerai chief executive Jean-Marc Pontroué. Oversized and cleanly designed in the historical Panerai style, the Radiomir Bronzo is also the first step in the rejuvenation of the Radiomir line, which will see the addition of several new models in 2023. According to Mr Pontroué, the Radiomir will now be a range of watches that are largely historically inspired in terms of design. With that in mind, I would expect the “California” dial to return. Available at dinner, and maybe lunches too Initial thoughts Big, thick, and looking very much like a Panerai on the wrist, the Radiomir Bronzo is appealing to anyone who likes the old-school Panerai look. While it does look like a typical Panerai, the Radiomir Bronzo manages to be fairly novel, at least as novel as a Panerai can be while still retaining its trademark design elements. Besides being the first Radiomir in bronze – past models in the metal were all Submersibles – it also has a textured dial that’s fairly novel for the brand. But the textured finish is combined with traditional elements, a “sandwich” construction and blued hands. Overall it’s a good look, although I find the stitching on the strap...

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Every Watch Tells A Story: “As soon as I saw it I thought, ‘Wow! I have to have that watch one day.’” Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic “As soon Aug 3, 2022

Every Watch Tells A Story: “As soon as I saw it I thought, ‘Wow! I have to have that watch one day.’”

Tommy is a Time+Tide Club member who works in cricket and, as a result, travels a lot and spends an inordinate amount of time in airports. That means he also gets a lot of exposure to new watches in the duty-free section, which is how he first spotted the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic. “As soon as … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells A Story: “As soon as I saw it I thought, ‘Wow! I have to have that watch one day.’” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Every Watch Tells A Story: “One of the reasons I wanted a Seamaster was the Bond films” Time+Tide
Jul 27, 2022

Every Watch Tells A Story: “One of the reasons I wanted a Seamaster was the Bond films”

James Bond is a one-man industry. The Bond films have grossed over $7.04 billion USD on their own. But the various car chases, gadgets and attempts to save the world from the latest megalomaniac supervillain have also provided a fertile backdrop for product placement. In a way, this endless showcasing of different brands isn’t too unreasonable either. … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells A Story: “One of the reasons I wanted a Seamaster was the Bond films” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An exhibition of Breguet masterpieces Time+Tide
Breguet masterpieces Hello one Jul 22, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An exhibition of Breguet masterpieces

Hello one and all, it’s Borna once again, delivering event news from Melbourne! With the coldest months upon us, a crowd gathered at the warm Monards boutique on Melbourne’s Collins Street to check out their display of rare Breguet pieces, among many other wonderful watches. The attendees also had a chance to win some wonderful … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An exhibition of Breguet masterpieces appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Cuervo Y Sobrinos Historiador Hemingway Time+Tide
Jul 21, 2022

The Cuervo Y Sobrinos Historiador Hemingway

Ernest Hemingway was a man celebrated in equal measure for his life as much as his writing. While pioneering the “Iceberg Theory” of simple, direct language that was transferred from his time as a journalist, Hemingway also amassed a lifetime of adventures from navigating both World Wars, living in Paris in the 1920s, and reporting … ContinuedThe post The Cuervo Y Sobrinos Historiador Hemingway appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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