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Display vs Solid Caseback

Sapphire window vs engraved metal. Haute-horlogerie standard since 1985 vs the Submariner / Daytona / Speedmaster heritage.

Watch Complications: A Comprehensive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 17, 2023

Watch Complications: A Comprehensive Guide

A watch complication, by definition, is any function offered by a timepiece that is in addition to its primary function of keeping the time. Despite the name, watch complications don't really have to be, well, all that complicated: that date display you glance at before signing a check qualifies as a complication even though it's not nearly as complex and dynamic as, say, the split-seconds chronograph you use to time racing laps or the world-time function you consult before making a call home on an international business trip. Here we run down the major watch complications from the simplest to the most mechanically sophisticated, and provide an example of each. Date Complications: Date Window Probably the most common of “small complications,” this is simply a display of the date via a numbered disk that passes under an aperture in the dial, usually positioned at 3 o’clock, 4:30, or 6 o’clock. Unless the watch is an annual or perpetual calendar, this date will need to be manually adjusted forward at the end of any month shorter than 31 days. Some watches, like the Rolex Submariner, enlarge this display by placing a magnifying lens over the window. Large Date This one also goes by “big date” “grande date,” or “panorama date,’ and is essentially just a larger version of the standard date display, though it usually uses two date disks (one for the tens numeral and the other for the ones) rather than one, and a double window, with each numeral appearing in...

Mr. Jones Continues to Expand their Mechanical Collection with the Release of The Accurate, A Clever Take on the Memento Mori Worn & Wound
Aug 17, 2023

Mr. Jones Continues to Expand their Mechanical Collection with the Release of The Accurate, A Clever Take on the Memento Mori

Mr. Jones, the brand whose slogan is “The Most Unique British Watches,” continues to update their eclectic collection with mechanical versions of their most popular and talked about quartz watches. Back in April, we told you about the mechanical release of “A Perfectly Useless Afternoon,” a watch that told time via a display that brings one of the laziest activities imaginable – floating aimlessly in a pool – into fluid motion on the wrist. That design is a perfect example of the Mr. Jones ethos, which is to use a watch dial as a blank canvas to tell a story in a highly specific way, and to get people talking. Their watches, while certainly not to every taste, are undeniably full of ideas, and remarkably creative in a way that most watches simply aren’t, as the brand isn’t inspired by traditional watchmaking. The newest watch in their mechanical collection actually does take an idea that has existed in watchmaking for just about as long as the practice has existed, the memento mori, and puts a uniquely Mr. Jones spin on it. “The Accurate” doesn’t use traditional memento mori iconography, but it is, as the brand says, the most accurate watch ever made.  The Mr. Jones collection is full of visual puns, and The Accurate is a good example. The words “remember you will die” appear spread across the hour and minute hands, such that whenever you read the time, you get a not-so-subtle reminder of your own mortality. This, of course, is the point of a mem...

The best kinds of watches you should buy for a 21st birthday Time+Tide
Aug 15, 2023

The best kinds of watches you should buy for a 21st birthday

You may have a general idea of the watches a list like this would include. Of course, going for timeless and classic designs is going to be a solid option for any 21st birthday present, especially if it’s robust enough to survive most people’s wildest decade and keep those memories throughout their life. There are … ContinuedThe post The best kinds of watches you should buy for a 21st birthday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Track Time With Three New Seiko Chronographs – Now In The Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Seiko Chronographs – Now Aug 14, 2023

Track Time With Three New Seiko Chronographs – Now In The Windup Watch Shop

There’s a place in any watch collection for a solid chronograph. There’s something so fun about having a little stopwatch on your wrist to track time. Even if you’re not using the commonly-seen tachymeter bezel to calculate speed, you’ll find yourself using it for countless tasks throughout the day. It can be really handy to know how long that meal’s been on the stove, or how long you’ve been letting that french press sit. Today, we have three new chronographs in the shop from Seiko. Two of the three feature quartz movements, while the other features a convenient and reliable solar chronograph. Let’s take a look at these exciting releases from Seiko that we’re thrilled to offer in the Windup Watch Shop. There’s a place in any watch collection for a solid chronograph. There’s something so fun about having a little stopwatch on your wrist to track time. Even if you’re not using the commonly-seen tachymeter bezel to calculate speed, you’ll find yourself using it for countless tasks throughout the day. It can be really handy to know how long that meal’s been on the stove, or how long you’ve been letting that french press sit. Today, we have three new chronographs in the shop from Seiko. Two of the three feature quartz movements, while the other features a convenient and reliable solar chronograph. Let’s take a look at these exciting releases from Seiko that we’re thrilled to offer in the Windup Watch Shop. The post Track Time With Three New Se...

WHAT IF… Casio made the gold G-Shock a (more) regular thing? Time+Tide
Casio made Aug 5, 2023

WHAT IF… Casio made the gold G-Shock a (more) regular thing?

The WHAT IF…? idea is a versatile one, concerned with wishful thinking, hopes of market-changing releases, and nostalgic pleas. Sometimes, however, it might as well be called WHY NOT…?, and this is the case today. In a recent writers’ meeting, there was discussion of G-Shock, and more particularly the proposition of a solid gold one, … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… Casio made the gold G-Shock a (more) regular thing? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Bovet 1822 Récital 23 in green and blue is a visual extravaganza for the wrist Time+Tide
Bovet Aug 3, 2023

The new Bovet 1822 Récital 23 in green and blue is a visual extravaganza for the wrist

The Bovet 1822 Récital 23 is advertised as a women’s watch, however it can suit any lover of opulence. The Writing Slope case angles the dial towards you for easier reading. The moonphase display only needs adjusting every 122 years, and the twin-barrel movement offers 62 hours of power reserve. Bovet are a brand with … ContinuedThe post The new Bovet 1822 Récital 23 in green and blue is a visual extravaganza for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Flies the French Motorsport Colors with Limited Edition Monaco Chronograph in Racing Blue Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Flies Aug 1, 2023

TAG Heuer Flies the French Motorsport Colors with Limited Edition Monaco Chronograph in Racing Blue

A surefire way to know if a watch brand has a design that can withstand the test of time is instant recognizability. There’s no need to have the brand name positioned front and center because its unique styling and distinguishable silhouette are more than enough. From across the room, there’s no mistaking the TAG Heuer Monaco. Its square case, left-hand-drive crown and dual sub-register display immediately fires the synapses in our watch nerd brains. Throw in the Hollywood fame and a namesake that represents one of the most famous racing circuits in all of motorsports, then you have a watch that arguably cements its place on the Mount Rushmore of watches. The TAG Heuer Monaco remains as a platform for the brand to explore their avant garde ways, as well as to lean into their rich heritage and connection to motorsport across the world. With the latter in mind, TAG Heuer has announced the Monaco Chronograph in Racing Blue inspired by French motorsport liveries. French racing blue can trace its presence on the racing grid back to race cars such as the CD Panhard LM64 and the Bugatti Type 35 Grand Prix Racer to present day with the Alpine Endurance Team. The saturated shade of azure is now incorporated into the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph through its signature rounded-corner sub-register display. As a part of automotive color theory, designers are tasked with bringing inanimate objects to life and simultaneously making them look fast in the process. That’s a noticeable ...

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration Dial is starting to hit the secondary market. Shocker, it is priced high… Time+Tide
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration Dial Jul 26, 2023

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration Dial is starting to hit the secondary market. Shocker, it is priced high…

Rolex at Watches & Wonders this year can be described in two words: acid trip. Sure, there were the usual incremental updates to lines such as the GMT Master II and Rolex Daytona. And it was exciting to see the new 1908 have a sapphire caseback across all models and the platinum anniversary Daytona as … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration Dial is starting to hit the secondary market. Shocker, it is priced high… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Maurice de Mauriac Züri Date collection offers a rainbow of 8 watches inspired by the colours of Zurich tram lines Time+Tide
Jul 25, 2023

The new Maurice de Mauriac Züri Date collection offers a rainbow of 8 watches inspired by the colours of Zurich tram lines

The new Maurice de Mauriac Züri Date collection is inspired by the colours of Zurich tram lines Each of the watches, starting at CHF 3,200, are available on leather straps or a steel bracelet for CHF 300 more The day display at 12′ is executed in Zurich’s very own Swiss-German dialect Swiss independent microbrand Maurice … ContinuedThe post The new Maurice de Mauriac Züri Date collection offers a rainbow of 8 watches inspired by the colours of Zurich tram lines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Jul 24, 2023

Hands On: Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution

Historically known for its over-the-top jewelled watches and oversized complications, Jacob & Co. recently debuted a watch that is very much quintessential Jacob, but surprisingly novel in mechanical terms. The Astronomia Revolution sticks to the distinctive, extra-large styling that defines the model, but contains an all-new movement that combines several complex assemblies into an even more complex movement, all in the name of a dynamic, fast-rotating display. Carrying the tourbillon and time display, the carousel is impressively quick and completes one revolution a minute, a feat made possible by a one-sixth-of-a-second constant-force mechanism and a differential for the time display. The kinetic nature of the dial means this is unlike any other mechanical watch. Initial thoughts The Astronomia Revolution made it into my list of notable complications unveiled at Watches & Wonders earlier this year: “[The] Revolution seems like yet another variant of the New York jeweller’s bestselling and bulbous timepiece… Except that it is not… While past versions of the Astronomia required between ten to 20 minutes or more for the carousel to complete one rotation, the Revolution does it in one minute [and] functions as a minute hand. To move a component that large at such a speed is unprecedented…” Which pretty much sums it up. It looks like a typical Jacob & Co. watch, but is much more interesting mechanically. That is because the movement goes against the prevailing co...

Daniel Arsham x Hublot: The watch ambassador without a watch – yet… Time+Tide
Hublot Jul 22, 2023

Daniel Arsham x Hublot: The watch ambassador without a watch – yet…

As Disney CEO Bob Iger has suggested due to the onslaught of Marvel films and series, the resulting saturation of watch brand collaborations has created a sense of collaboration-fatique for watch consumers. With each new collaborative piece, the novelty perhaps weans a tad. Of course, if a collaboration is solid, people get very excited – … ContinuedThe post Daniel Arsham x Hublot: The watch ambassador without a watch – yet… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The New Casio Oceanus Pays Tribute to the Deep Blue Sea with Spiral-Cut Sapphire Bezel Anchored by Hardened Titanium Case and Bracelet Worn & Wound
Casio Oceanus Pays Tribute Jul 21, 2023

The New Casio Oceanus Pays Tribute to the Deep Blue Sea with Spiral-Cut Sapphire Bezel Anchored by Hardened Titanium Case and Bracelet

The Oceanus might be the last thing you think about when you hear the brand name, Casio. Their elevated range of watches aren’t built with the familiar tough resin case accompanied by a soft urethane band and a digital display. Instead, Casio has elected to encase the Oceanus with titanium paired with distinguishable features that stray away from the utilitarian feel while still integrating their technological know-how in a more analog fashion. In short, this concept is what Casio refers to as, “Elegance, Technology”. The four latest additions include a limited reference and three regular production models that harness the dynamic cerulean hues of the ocean packaged in a coated titanium case and equipped with a suite of familiar features. Like the Manta S500 Series, the Oceanus OCWS6000SW2A takes the bezel and uses it as a canvas to uniquely represent the various features of the ocean. This limited production model in particular displays the movement of the ocean with a spiral-cut sapphire bezel representing the crest and trough of a traveling wave. The blue gradient of the bezel also gives the impression of the continuous motion of the ocean. Although masked by color, the sapphire bezel still allows light to penetrate through, powering the solar panel fixed beneath. As mentioned above, the case is constructed out of titanium and coated with a carbide treatment giving a powdery, sandblasted effect across the non-polished areas. Another distinguishable feature of the ...

Behind-the-Scenes with the Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono 50th Anniversary Model Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono 50th Jul 12, 2023

Behind-the-Scenes with the Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono 50th Anniversary Model

When the Worn & Wound team was asked to create a video production for the new Citizen 50th Anniversary Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer, we were completely stoked as we were such big fans of the original. Our vision aligned with Citizen on this project making for a solid collaboration for this fun revival. One of our favorite aspects of the shoot was demonstrating the watch on both a male and female wrist. Our female model certainly rocked the Tsuno Chrono with style and grace! If you’re not familiar with the origin, this piece was inspired by the original Citizen Bullhead from 1973, the uncommon chronograph features a 45mm two-tone stainless steel case secured by a sleek brown leather strap. Take a look at our behind the scenes video below to see how our amazing team put together this big launch. When the Worn & Wound team was asked to create a video production for the new Citizen 50th Anniversary Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer, we were completely stoked as we were such big fans of the original. Our vision aligned with Citizen on this project making for a solid collaboration for this fun revival. One of our favorite aspects of the shoot was demonstrating the watch on both a male and female wrist. Our female model certainly rocked the Tsuno Chrono with style and grace! If you’re not familiar with the origin, this piece was inspired by the original Citizen Bullhead from 1973, the uncommon chronograph features a 45mm two-tone stainless steel case secured by a sleek brown leath...

Look to the Skies With This New Aurora-Inspired G-Shock Worn & Wound
Jul 9, 2023

Look to the Skies With This New Aurora-Inspired G-Shock

G-Shock is a brand who’s known for swinging wildly in two different directions, and few others can pull it off like they do. From the classic black square DW-5600 to the more wild offerings like this MTGB3000PRB1, they rarely miss. Inspired by the colorful natural phenomenon known as aurora borealis, where particles from solar winds interact with the Earth’s magnetic field and result in a stunning display of dancing light. The wide range of colors and textures that nature’s own little light show puts on can be seen in the design of the MTGB3000PRB1, where G-Shock has integrated some really cool material technology to replicate the look. Let’s dig in. G-Shock is a brand who’s known for swinging wildly in two different directions, and few others can pull it off like they do. From the classic black square DW-5600 to the more wild offerings like this MTGB3000PRB1, they rarely miss. Inspired by the colorful natural phenomenon known as aurora borealis, where particles from solar winds interact with the Earth’s magnetic field and result in a stunning display of dancing light. The wide range of colors and textures that nature’s own little light show puts on can be seen in the design of the MTGB3000PRB1, where G-Shock has integrated some really cool material technology to replicate the look. Let’s dig in. The post Look to the Skies With This New Aurora-Inspired G-Shock appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Omega celebrates 75 years of the Seamaster with 11 new “Summer Blue” models across the collection (Live Video & Pics!) Time+Tide
Omega celebrates 75 years Jun 27, 2023

Omega celebrates 75 years of the Seamaster with 11 new “Summer Blue” models across the collection (Live Video & Pics!)

A gradient of 11 new “Summer Blue” configurations for the 75th anniversary of the Seamaster that darken as the depth rating increases Each model has a commemorative caseback with the signature Poseidon, trident, and two seahorses motif The previously discontinued Ploprof returns to the catalogue with a new resized monobloc case There are countless brands … ContinuedThe post Omega celebrates 75 years of the Seamaster with 11 new “Summer Blue” models across the collection (Live Video & Pics!) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hervé Schlüchter Debuts with L’Essentiel Regulator SJX Watches
Jun 22, 2023

Hervé Schlüchter Debuts with L’Essentiel Regulator

The latest watchmaker to launch a time-only watch with a finely finished movement is Hervé Schlüchter, who makes his debut with the L’Essentiel. A watchmaker who spent most of his recent career as a movement constructor at Bovet, Mr Schlüchter’s entry into the progressively more crowded segment features a regulator-style display with a day-and-night indicator and on the reverse, a hand-finished movement. Initial thoughts Having worked at Bovet and then spent time studying with Philippe Dufour, Mr Schlüchter has the background for a fine watch. Notably, Mr Schlüchter is an actual watchmaker, having trained as a watchmaker and repairer. As a result, the L’Essentiel is arguably purer in concept since it was developed and then produced by a watch-maker, rather than being drawn by a designer or engineer and then outsourced to specialists. The L’Essentiel lives up to expectations in terms of decoration and construction. It has impressively high quality in most respects: the dial is engine turned by hand, and includes fired enamel, and aventurine. The movement shows off lots of black-polished steel, chamfered edges, and polished countersinks. At CHF78,000 before taxes, the L’Essentiel has a decent price-to-quality ratio. But while watch is titled “The Essential”, it is ironically a lot, maybe too much, both stylistically and tangibly. As is increasingly the case with independent watchmaking, the product feels contrived because it wants to be everything that is ...

5 Ideal Automatic Watches For the Beginner – Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Jun 21, 2023

5 Ideal Automatic Watches For the Beginner – Windup Watch Shop

We know just as well as you do, that the world of watches goes deep and it can be overwhelming to get into. Of course, the first step is showing interest, but even more tricky is the second step - picking out your very first mechanical timepiece. There are a few main types of movements: mechanical (automatic or hand-wound), quartz (powered by a battery) and digital (usually featuring an LCD display). While quartz and digital have their places, it’s hard to top the idea that you have a tiny precision machine strapped to your wrist that’s powered by the movement of your body. Mechanical movements are built to last a lifetime (with regular service) and can be simple as a three-handed movement (hours, minutes, seconds) or as complicated as a three register chronograph with a perpetual calendar with moon phase display. Today, we’re exploring five of our favorite picks that are ideal for your first mechanical watch - stylish, feature-packed, and sub-$500. Let’s dig in! We know just as well as you do, that the world of watches goes deep and it can be overwhelming to get into. Of course, the first step is showing interest, but even more tricky is the second step - picking out your very first mechanical timepiece. There are a few main types of movements: mechanical (automatic or hand-wound), quartz (powered by a battery) and digital (usually featuring an LCD display). While quartz and digital have their places, it’s hard to top the idea that you have a tiny precisio...

Bell & Ross Latest Watch Made with the Patrouille de France is a BR 03-92 with a Bright Blue Dial Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Latest Watch Made Jun 16, 2023

Bell & Ross Latest Watch Made with the Patrouille de France is a BR 03-92 with a Bright Blue Dial

The latest from Bell & Ross is a new entry in their ongoing partnership and collaboration with the Patrouille de France, an aerobatic display team that’s part of the French Air and Space Force. The team was founded in 1953, making this year their 70th in operation, which naturally calls for a special limited edition watch. We’ve brought you news of Bell & Ross releases that highlight their relationship with the Patrouille de France in each of the last two years, and the new watch is very much in the same vein as the previous efforts, drawing inspiration from the bright blue planes the team is known for flying. Where previous limited editions were based on watches with a somewhat niche appeal (a chronograph and an ana-digi piece) the new watch is built on BR 03-92 platform, the signature, and simplest, Bell & Ross pilot’s watch, which displays just the time and date in the brand’s signature square case.  The BR 03-92 Patrouille de France 70th Anniversary limited edition is, above all, a tribute to the actual planes used by the flight team over the years. We’ll get to the dial momentarily, but what makes this limited edition special is what’s on the caseback. Flip the watch over and you’ll find a detailed engraving of the five aircraft that have been flown by the Patrouille de France since 1953: the Thunderjet, the Alphajet, the Ouragan, the Mystère IV, and the Fouga Magister. The engraving is actually quite detailed and full of information. It shows an image...

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Ref. 5330G-010 Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Ref. 5330G-010 Tokyo 2023

Having just opened the doors of the Watch Art Grand Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, Patek Philippe also revealed the special editions created for the event, including the World Time Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5330G-10. Limited to 300 watches available only in Japan, the ref. 5330G-010 is the brand’s first world time with a date display. It features a guilloche dial in purple, the thematic hue of the exhibition, along with subtle references to Japan on the dial. Initial thoughts While the ref. 5330G-010 is not the flagship complication of the Watch Art Tokyo 2023 event – that title is claimed by the ref. 5308P Quadruple Complication – the new World Time is quintessential Patek Philippe. For one, the world time complication, though not invented by Patek Philippe, is strongly associated with the brand. At the same time, the date display is both practical and incorporated in an elegant manner, while the mechanics behind the date are sophisticated and thin as is typical of the brand’s approach to movements. Also in its favour are the discreet and tasteful references to Japan on the dial. But while the plum dial is striking and rich, the colour might not be for everyone. But putting aside the colour, the ref. 5330G-010 is an appealing watch. It is limited to just 300 pieces sold only in Japan, which makes availability at retail non-existent for most, but fortunately the ref. 5330 will almost certainly make it into the catalogue as a regular production model, as past exhi...

Tissot Revives a Funky Archive Favorite with Modern Re-Interpretation of the Sideral Worn & Wound
Tissot Revives Jun 5, 2023

Tissot Revives a Funky Archive Favorite with Modern Re-Interpretation of the Sideral

Before the bang-for-your-buck PRX Powermatic 80, the refined range of Chemins des Tourelles, as well as the brand’s stint as the official timekeeper of the National Basketball Association, there was a moment in time when Tissot decided to get experimental with their approach to watchmaking. It was 1969 when Tissot thrusted their brainchild into reality with the release of their funky Sideral diver (pronounced see-dee-rahl), sporting a multi-colored regatta timer display within the dial, an intuitive rubber strap fastening system, and for the first time ever, a monoblock case completely fabricated out of fiberglass. The Tissot Sideral has now officially made its return with all of its groovy glory with the addition of a couple of contemporary touches. 1969 Sideral S (left) Vs. 2023 Sideral (right) The Tissot Sideral 2023 retains its distinctive barrel shaped case and lug-less design that made the original yellow fiberglass-cased Sideral so eye-catching. But instead of using the same material as its predecessor, which has shown to brittle over time, the Sideral 2023 utilizes a case combination of forged carbon and stainless steel. The midcase represents the portion of the case made out of forged carbon, displaying its signature “swirl” pattern and simultaneously cutting several grams off of the total case weight without sacrificing a durable exterior. The bezel, which displays a dual-function with an elapsed and regatta timing scale, is made out of stainless steel, whi...

Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” 42mm Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak May 25, 2023

Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” 42mm

New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” marks second Marvel collaboration after “Black Panther” Continues tradition of a limited edition of 250 pieces, with a piece unique “Black-suit Spider-Man” to be auctioned for charity The solid white-gold, hand-painted and engraved Spider-Man figure requires no less than 50 hours of work When Audemars Piguet debuted … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse: Its Ingenious Gearing is Simply Magical – Reprise Quill & Pad
Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse May 18, 2023

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse: Its Ingenious Gearing is Simply Magical – Reprise

The Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse appears magical thanks to the apparent lack of any connection to the case while putting most of the mechanics on full display. It may be a time-only watch with no complications or tourbillons, but it is a most impressive accomplishment. Joshua Munchow explains the magic trick.