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First Look - The New Ferdinand Berthoud FB RES, With Over Two Hundred Customisation Options Monochrome
Chopard s co-president unveiled Apr 3, 2024

First Look - The New Ferdinand Berthoud FB RES, With Over Two Hundred Customisation Options

In 2015, Ferdinand Berthoud, a brand with a historical name resurrected by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Chopard’s co-president, unveiled the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB1. Since then, we’ve witnessed the successful launch of numerous references in the FB1, FB2, and FB3 collections. These releases have showcased groundbreaking engineering innovations and distinguished themselves with their exceptional design, setting them […]

Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Turns Dec 13, 2023

Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table

Now the signature watch of Roger Dubuis’ modern-day offerings, the Knights of the Round Table “Titanium Damascus” is inspired by the Arthurian fable. The latest edition is centred on the theme of “ice and fire” – the reference to Game of Thrones is unmissable – and is surprisingly artisanal despite the ultra-contemporary aesthetic. Decorated with blue Murano glass and Limoges porcelain, the dial has 12 knights around a frozen lake – a miniature diorama depicting the knights confronting imminent peril emerging from the waters’ depths – and a case made of a pattern-welded titanium alloy. Initial thoughts The “ice and fire” edition is no doubt catered for a niche audience – and at 45 mm few can wear it easily – but still has a unique appeal. Moreover, it departs from the modern, skeletonised style that’s characteristic of the brand’s automotive-inspired timepieces. It merges artisanal decoration and modern watchmaking – it is big and bold but boasts unexpectedly intricate detailing. The watch encapsulates the Roger Dubuis “hyper horology” ethos in both design and construction, while the dial and movement (which is hallmarked with the Poincon de Geneve) stay faithful to traditional watchmaking and decoration. This Knights of the Round Table is priced at approximately US$374,000, putting it in the same price range as other editions in the series. It is also priced similarly to comparably extravagant watches from the likes of Jacob & Co., bu...

Zenith Watches: A Brief History and Overview of the Modern Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Oct 13, 2023

Zenith Watches: A Brief History and Overview of the Modern Collection

Zenith SA, a Swiss watchmaker that traces its roots all the way back to 1865, is best known these days for its historic and hugely influential El Primero chronograph caliber, but the company can lay claim to many other horological milestones and accolades as well, some of which might be somewhat less than common knowledge. Did you know, for example, that Zenith has won more chronometry awards than any other watch brand? Or that it was once owned by an electronics company of the same name? Or that it is the only brand that’s allowed to put “Pilot” on a pilot’s watch dial? In this in-depth feature, I explore these and other aspects of Zenith’s fascinating history and also offer a primer on the manufacture’s modern watch collections. Georges-Favre-Jacot and Historic Integration Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot (above) was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer Le Corbusier, embraced a similarly modern approach to making watches, taking his cues from the American firms Waltham and Elgin, which had found success by introducing mass production into the traditionally artisanal business. His company, originally called Georges Favre-Jacot & Co., was the first Swiss watch producer to bring the various disciplines of horology under one roof - as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which h...

Visiting the F.P. Journe Manufacture SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Laurent Ferrier Oct 10, 2023

Visiting the F.P. Journe Manufacture

I recently had the opportunity to see how the philosophy of “in-house” plays out in real life with a behind-the-scenes tour of the F.P. Journe manufacture in Geneva, and its newly opened case and dial factory in Meyrin, Les Cadraniers de Genève (CDG) and Les Boîtiers de Genève (BDG). The tour was impressive in its thoroughness and transparency. Montres Journe, the entity that makes F.P. Journe watches, comprises three entities at two sites in the Geneva metro area. The first is the F.P. Journe manufacture in downtown Geneva – incidentally not far from the Patek Philippe Museum – where all F.P. Journe movements are designed and manufactured, and where all watches are finished, assembled, and tested. The reception room at the Geneva manufacture. When F.P. Journe launched in 1999, this room was the entire production space for the brand, which subsequently acquired the rest of the building. The original production space is now a reception area and home to a portion of the Jean-Claude Sabrier library, acquired in 2015. The other two entities are Les Cadraniers de Genève (CDG) and Les Boîtiers de Genève (BDG) – which translate literally as “The Dial Makers of Geneva” and “The Case Makers of Geneva”. The two recently moved into a new building where CDG makes dials for F.P. Journe as well as third-party clients like Vacheron Constantin, Laurent Ferrier, and numerous other elite brands, while in contrast BDG makes cases and bracelets exclusively for F.P. Jou...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Mar 29, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R

Adding to its diverse line-up of travel watches, Patek Philippe has just taken the wraps off the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R. A bold design, the ref. 5224R is Patek Philippe’s most novel travel watch to date. It is notable for having a 24-hour display inspired by the Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches made for Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau in the early twentieth century. Initial thoughts The ref. 5224R is instantly striking thanks to the high contrast between the dial colour and rose gold case, busy dial design, and large, thin case. Though it is in essence a three-hander with an extra second time zone hand, it is far more interesting, even intimidating due to the 44 applied indices that give the dial something of an instrument-like appearance. The 24-hour display elevates the quirkiness of the design, which arguably strengthens the overall aesthetic. Admittedly, this comes at a cost of legibility – it is not the most intuitive watch to read. It takes a while to get used to, so reliability will be an issue if one is rotating between different watches in his or her collection. More surprising is the case size, which at 42 mm is massive for Patek Philippe. It is also unusual given the traditional case design, although the large case emphasises the slimness of the case. The large size is likely intentional to provide space for the applied numerals, and is perhaps rooted in the large size of the Gondolo pocket watches. Still, one wonders if ...

Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 5: The best deep divers for slim wrists Time+Tide
Mar 25, 2023

Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 5: The best deep divers for slim wrists

If the moon was the frontier of the 1960s, then the deepest sea has been the frontier ever since – specifically the Mariana Trench in the Western Pacific Ocean. Last year, saw yet another challenge laid down, but this time not in an actual attempt to reach the bottom, rather in the release of the … ContinuedThe post Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 5: The best deep divers for slim wrists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

De Bethune Introduces Custom Regulation with the Sensoriel SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Custom Regulation Nov 14, 2022

De Bethune Introduces Custom Regulation with the Sensoriel

De Bethune’s latest invention aims to customise the regulation of a mechanical watch to suit the individual owner. Dubbed the Sensoriel Chronometry Project, it takes the form of a electronic wrist instrument that measures the wearer’s activities and environmental conditions over a two week period – gathering two million data points per hour according to the brand. With this voluminous quantity of data, De Bethune will then regulate a DB28GS Grand Bleu sports watch specifically for the particular owner, optimising timekeeping based on the wearer’s activities. [Updated to include response from Denis Flageollet.] Initial thoughts On paper the Sensoriel is interesting and impressive, but on reflection it raises several questions. For one, the two million data points recorded per hour – for a two-week period – results in an extraordinary amount of information on the wearer’s activities. Can any mechanical watch be regulated to a fine enough resolution that makes even a fraction of that data useful? My knowledge of watchmaking is certainly inexpert but I am sceptical. Mr Flageollet points out De Bethune utilises an algorithm to process the data and sieve out the “elements specific to the wearer, in a way to bring out a specific chronometric DNA for each wearer”, allowing the watch to be regulated according to a smaller number of data points. The second salient point is more philosophical. Historically the pursuit of chronometry meant good timekeeping regardless...

OK, cool… But who is the new 50mm titanium Rolex Deepsea Challenge really for? Time+Tide
Rolex Deepsea Challenge really for? Nov 1, 2022

OK, cool… But who is the new 50mm titanium Rolex Deepsea Challenge really for?

Today, inspired by the experimental watch that accompanied filmmaker James Cameron on his historic 10,908-metre (35,787-foot) descent into the Mariana Trench on March 26, 2012, Rolex has revealed their first ever all-titanium production watch: the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge in RLX Titanium with a depth rating of 11,000 metres.  As cool as it is to … ContinuedThe post OK, cool… But who is the new 50mm titanium Rolex Deepsea Challenge really for? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Introduces the Luminor BiTempo PAM01360 and PAM01361 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Aug 31, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor BiTempo PAM01360 and PAM01361

Traditionally all about vintage-inspired, “Marina Militare” dive watches, Panerai has recently been rolling out complications with a minimalist, contemporary execution, such as the recent Luminor pepertual calendar. Sharing a similar aesthetic perhaps more practical – and certainly more affordable – is the new Luminor BiTempo PAM 1360 and PAM 1361, a GMT wristwatch with striking baby-blue accents on a blue or black dial. The PAM 1361 with a radially-brushed blue dial Initial thoughts Given its large diameter and clean dial, the Luminor accommodates complications well while still maintaining its characteristic minimalist style – if the additions are integrated properly. Panerai managed that with the BiTempo, which manages to incorporate a date, second time zone, and power reserve indicator without hindering the recognisable Panerai aesthetic. In fact, the BiTempo could pass for a time-only Luminor from across a room. That said, the second time zone isn’t a new complication for the brand – the movement is an existing calibre – so the novelty is mainly in the facelift that changes dial details like the enlarged date display and blue accents. While I appreciate that the baby blue indicators are legible, I find the colour overly pastel for the low-key, military-inspired styling. Legible both day and night Twin time zones The BiTempo has a 44 mm Luminor 1950 case with its trademark crown guard. The “sandwich” dial has the signature Luminor layout with ov...

Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen Time+Tide
Zenith X Phillips X Kari Jun 2, 2022

Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen

Precision chronometry is the ultimate test of any manufacture’s mettle. To win and set records at Observatory competitions not only results in a highly coveted award for a manufacture, but also a highly coveted timepiece for collectors to acquire. Herein lies what makes the Zenith calibre 135-0 so legendary in the world of horology. From … ContinuedThe post Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Formula 1 Championship of watch brands goes to… Time+Tide
Hamilton Dec 15, 2021

The Formula 1 Championship of watch brands goes to…

This past Sunday was the conclusion of one of the most fiercely contested years of Formula 1 racing. On the recently revised Yas Marina track of Abu Dhabi, Max Verstappen was able to grab the Drivers’ Championship for Red Bull. Point-scoring efforts from Lewis Hamilton and Valtteri Bottas were able to secure the Constructors’ Championship. … ContinuedThe post The Formula 1 Championship of watch brands goes to… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical and Solar Prospex Chronographs Time+Tide
Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Sep 30, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical and Solar Prospex Chronographs

Seiko has a rich and ever-evolving tradition of sports timing and chronometry. Known for historically frightening the Swiss in observatory competitions and being a proud timing partner for events such as the Olympic Games, Seiko has always been motivated by accuracy – a pillar of many of their designs. Today the brand, in a continuing … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical and Solar Prospex Chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Phillips to auction Rolex Deep Sea Special - and my own encounter with a real monster of the deep Time+Tide
Rolex Deep Sea Special – Sep 20, 2021

Phillips to auction Rolex Deep Sea Special - and my own encounter with a real monster of the deep

Early November will see Phillips auction a very unusual, and not made for public, Rolex Deep Sea Special. This watch was based on the experimental Rolex that rode the outside of the Trieste bathyscaphe that, in January 1960, dove to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, some 10,900 metres deep. Following the successful dive and … ContinuedThe post Phillips to auction Rolex Deep Sea Special – and my own encounter with a real monster of the deep appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Dual Time is a GMT built to clock up serious air miles Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Dual Time Sep 11, 2021

The Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Dual Time is a GMT built to clock up serious air miles

Sceptical, moi?  We do love Louis Vuitton as one of the world’ most prominent luxury brands. But are their watches up to scratch? Any doubt on my behalf is easily dismissed by shots of La Fabrique Du Temps, the 4000 square meter LV watch manufacture in Meyrin, Switzerland that opened in 2014. This is a … ContinuedThe post The Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Dual Time is a GMT built to clock up serious air miles appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level… Time+Tide
Panerai take sustainability Apr 10, 2021

INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level…

Panerai maintains a strong focus on sustainability. This is expressed through the construction and metallurgy of their watches, right down to recycled materials for their fabric and leather straps. Their new Luminor Marina eSTEEL™ is the latest example of this valiant endeavour. Throw in Panerai’s generosity in making their own research publicly accessible and their … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review Feb 12, 2021

2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review

Pros: Graduated shades of intense blues on the dialA real joy to see the redesigned calibre 899 on the case back ISO 6425 complaint proper ‘diving’ watch  Cons: Some may not be fans of the screw-in internal Bezel 42mm case size will wear large on wrists smaller than 6.5 inchesSome may find it pricey  Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8.5/10  Reference : 9068180 Late last year in October 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Polaris Mariner for their Polaris collection. The Polaris Mariner is a range of high-performing diving watches that pay homage to the brand’s diving legacy and almost 100 years of knowledge and expertise on chiming watches. Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced two watches to their sporty and elegant Polaris collection; the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. What we have on our hands today is the classic diving piece the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date.  Case: Reference : 9068180 The case on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date is as close as it gets to the vintage 1968 Memovox Polaris. This 1968 model was the first true diving watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, which included an internal rotating bezel, an alarm, and a triple-layer case-back for better sound transmission. With the latest Polaris Mariner Date model, the alarm and sound transmission mechanisms have been left out for the Memovox model, with the Mariner Date being the simple yet classic diving...

RECOMMENDED READING: Enter the secret labs of COSC and learn their secrets Time+Tide
Jan 4, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Enter the secret labs of COSC and learn their secrets

Watchmaking can often seem like an intimidating world that’s inaccessible to all but the most tech-savvy. But Peter Speake-Marin is striving to change that with his fascinating website, The Naked Watchmaker. After exiting his eponymous haute horlogerie watch brand, Speake-Marin has worked as a consultant and started his site with a desire to demystify and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Enter the secret labs of COSC and learn their secrets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox: Sounds Traveling Through Water Like Whale Song Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox Sounds Oct 22, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox: Sounds Traveling Through Water Like Whale Song

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox doesn’t just sound as good below water as it does above, it sounds even better! While many of the recent Memovox models have been unashamedly contemporized, the Polaris Mariner Memovox is a relatively faithful tribute to the original 1965 Polaris. And it sounds as charming as the original, but better in every way.

Hands-on review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox DEPLOYANT Oct 17, 2020

Hands-on review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox

Underwater, accomplished and amateur divers alike need to rely on equipment that is impeccable both in terms of precision and safety. While previous models of the Polaris automatic only came with 100m water resistance, the dive styled watch is now a dive ready watch with the upgraded 300m water resistance. The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox is also equipped with this update in an attractive blue sunburst dial.