Hodinkee
In-Depth: A Look Back At 20 Years Of The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain
Examining the broad scope of two decades' worth of design and editions for FPJ's most classic watch.
3,651 articles · 174 videos found · page 37 of 128
Hodinkee
Examining the broad scope of two decades' worth of design and editions for FPJ's most classic watch.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko has a well known and understood design language that is expansive in nature. It’s a style that feels just as at home on a humble skin diver as it does in the context of a field watch or chronograph. It always feels comfortable, but never derivative. Like a perfectly well worn-in pair of jeans that you keep coming back to. The Speedtimer name is a perfect example of this originality since it was first used by the brand in 1969, and it largely remains so today. The modern Speedtimer SSC813 within the Prospex collection is not entirely reliant on that history, rather, it presents a contemporary vision of a Seiko chronograph at its most accessible. [toc-section heading="Seiko And Chronographs"] Seiko plays an important role in the history of the chronograph as we experience it today. The Japanese brand’s mechanical timers of the mid ‘60s showed off a modern vision for a highly focused design that would open the door for a new generation of watches. These designs did not use a host of subdials, but rather a single timing hand and a single pusher. This is a focus that would be retained until 1969, when Seiko introduced the reference 6139, one of three automatic chronographs to be revealed that year that would shape the genre for the coming decades. Unlike the other two, the Seiko used just a single subdial which would totalize up to 30 minutes. The 6139 would have a cultural impact just as big as its horological impact, appearing in films and, in the case of the so...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Seiko SNR058 is a US-only Prospex LX GMT combining Spring Drive accuracy, Zaratsu-polished titanium, and warm gradient design.
Seiko launched the Astron in 1969, changing not just the brand’s trajectory but the way watches were made. The first commercially available quartz wristwatch, it arrived in solid gold and cost ¥450,000, about $1,250 at the time, or roughly $10,000 in 2025. Though “vintage” to modern eyes, its design was surprisingly luxurious and quietly radical, blending traditional finishing with industrial design cues in a way only Seiko could achieve. The exterior, however, was not the main story. The caliber 35SQ inside is what rewrote horology. With a quartz oscillator vibrating at 8,192 Hz, it delivered accuracy far beyond the mechanical watches of the day. It was not only a proof-of-concept that pushed horology into the 20th century, it also proved that Seiko was willing to innovate in an industry steeped in tradition. The post [VIDEO] The Seiko Astron SSH151, an Award-Winning Tech-Forward Timepiece appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
As December rolls by, we tend to sit and reflect on the year that was and ponder what the future holds. And as per Deployant tradition, we also like to look back on the watches that came to be this year. I, personally, have enjoyed the trend towards design-focused watches and the rise of smallerRead More
Monochrome
Dutch watchmaker de Rijke & Co. is among those that get noticed by thinking differently. The brand’s debut Amalfi collection, launched in 2019, was built around a clever rotatable centre case inside an outer cradle, a concept that fused functionality and design ingenuity. For its second collection, the brand steps away from case mechanics and […]
Monochrome
TAG Heuer‘s relationship with Hiroshi Fujiwara, founder of Fragment Design and a pioneer of Tokyo street culture, has become one of the most stylistically consistent collaborations in contemporary watchmaking. Their first joint venture in 2018 distilled the vintage Carrera into its purest form; the second, in 2020, reinterpreted the 1970s Autavia through a graphic, bolder […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A hands-on review of the Citizen NY0040 diver, exploring its design, comfort, and why it stands on its own as a serious everyday tool watch.
Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier is a remarkable player in today’s horological landscape. The brand’s design aesthetic is unique, with the clever use of color being particularly admirable, and the technological innovations are nothing short of impressive. These aspects have made Parmigiani Fleurier both easy to love and easy to reject. Let’s be honest; it’s certainly not a […] Visit Hands-On With The Stunning Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Arctic Rose to read the full article.
Monochrome
We all love a good watch, that much is obvious. And what constitutes “good” is fairly straightforward in most watches, too. A solid, legible design, attractive details, fine ergonomics and a reliable mechanical movement. But sometimes, you want a bit more. Or a lot more, in the case of these six fine mechanical marvels. Each […]
WatchAdvice
The Longines HydroConquest GMT is one of Longines’ most modern references, but has it stood up to two years’ worth of my father’s ownership standards? Let’s ask him! Purchasing Expectations: A utilitarian watch, fit for my dad’s lifestyle Clever micro-adjustment system A Flyer-style GMT, helpful for international travel Ownership Reality: Some design elements we disagree with Durability of the rubber strap Can you see the date? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 When it comes to dive watches, very few can genuinely be called underrated. It’s a thoroughly complete subgenre of horology, filled with some of the most iconic collections in watchmaking history. Submariner, Fifty Fathoms, Seamaster, Aquaracer, Black Bay… these are just a few names that define the dive watch enthusiast’s vocabulary. But more often than not, the price-to-performance ratio is heavily skewed. These collections carry not only cultural weight but a sense of luxury as well, and their prices rarely reflect their intended purpose. Tangentially, I told a friend earlier this year that I believed Submariners are the most mistreated watches in history: built to withstand extreme pressures, yet typically left to gather dust in a safe. Diving Into The New Longines Hydroconquest GMT 43mm One dive watch that avoids this fate is the Longines HydroConquest. Luxurious yet fairly priced, high-performance without pretension, it has consis...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
We’ve tested both of these iconic military watches to break down design, build, and military-grade toughness.
Monochrome
Since its founding in 2019, Serica has built a loyal following for its elegant take on tool watches. Designed in Paris by Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette (of Les Rhabilleurs publication), Serica’s creations blend the discipline of military design with what is best described as distinctly French refinement. The brand’s collection comprises the 5303 Diver […]
Monochrome
For every good story, there is an end. First presented in 2023, the UR-230 series was Urwerk’s latest creation in the beloved 200 series, following the long-lived UR-210 and the short-lived UR-220. Built around the same design principles as its predecessors, and still featuring the immediately recognisable satellite display we have loved since 2006, the […]
Monochrome
Celebrating the 180th anniversary of its founder, Union Glashütte launches a pair of new 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Anniversary Editions, offered as the Large Second 41mm and Small Second 34mm references, capturing the brand’s enduring approach: fine Saxon craftsmanship and design excellence made accessible. The 1893 collection takes its name from the year Dürrstein established the […]
Hodinkee
A candid, engineer-driven look at design, innovation, and collecting from one of tech's most influential minds.
Monochrome
Hermès unveiled its Slim d’Hermès 10 years ago, a collection that showcases the brand’s keen appreciation for refined contemporary design with a distinctive twist. The perpetual calendar that was part of the original Slim d’Hermès range returns today in a luxurious rose gold case paired with a delectable chocolate-brown dial and the signature design elements […]
SJX Watches
Louis Erard continues its prolific run of collaborations with the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Worn & Wound, designed with the New York-based publication behind the value-focused Windup Watch Fair. Known for reinterpreting its popular regulator model through limited editions created with independent watchmakers and designers, Louis Erard now turns to a collaborator rooted in accessible watch culture, resulting in a design that blends layered dial architecture with the brand’s familiar 39 mm steel case and reputation for value. Initial thoughts If there’s one brand that has managed to build an identity around collaborations, it’s Louis Erard. Over the past few years the brand has released an astonishing range of limited edition series, usually built around the Le Régulateur platform, designed in collaboration with a diverse mix of watchmakers and designers. Notable releases include collaborations with Konstantin Chaykin and Vianney Halter, but these are just two among many. Louis Erard’s latest is a collaboration with New York-based Worn & Wound, a watch blog with an e-commerce business. Worn & Wound is also the driving force behind Windup Watch Fair, a collector-focused watch fair that takes place in New York, San Fransisco, Dallas, and Chicago each year. Worn & Wound’s primary focus is value-oriented watches, so the collaboration with Louis Erard makes perfect sense. Like most of the brand’s watches, Le Régulateur is a good value, managing to sneak in just u...
Monochrome
Since its debut in 1992, the Master Control collection by Jaeger-LeCoultre has embodied the brand’s refined approach to timeless design and precision. The line was introduced as the first to undergo the Manufacture’s 1000-Hour Control testing, a rigorous in-house certification of accuracy and reliability applied to the complete watch, not just the movement. Decades later, […]
Quill & Pad
Berneron unveils its new Quantième Annuel, a bold take on the annual calendar. Explore whether this release sets a new benchmark in watchmaking or enters the market at the wrong time amid cooling demand. A detailed look at design, mechanics, pricing, and collector appeal.
Hodinkee
The "Godfather of Harajuku" is back with another monochrome design, this time putting his stamp on the "glassbox" Carrera.
Worn & Wound
Baltic’s Prismic line always felt like it existed to capitalize on the stone dial trend. When the watch debuted in early 2024, the French brand’s take on the classic “cocktail watch” seemed like it was pulled from a confluence of all the forces pushing against the vintage inspired sports watch boom that preceded it. The Prismic is a small, aesthetics first, design oriented piece, about as anti tool watch as they come. Those first Prismic releases did not have stone dials, but a later set of limited editions did, and that’s when this watch really clicked into place for many of us. Now, with those LEs long gone, Baltic has introduced a new line of stone dial Prismics that will be part of the permanent collection. The new Prismic Stone collection arrives to celebrate the opening of Baltic’s first boutique, just as the previous LEs were released to celebrate the opening of showrooms in New York, London, and Paris. The four dial options make use of stones that are not common in watchmaking: Pietersite, Pink Albite, Bloodstone, and Dumortierite. Like all stone dials, each individual piece will be unique. The standout, in my opinion, is the Pietersite dial. This is a truly dynamic stone, and looks like something that could have been ejected from an active volcano just minutes ago. Bloodstone has a dark green hue with inclusions of brown and red, and could be seen as an alternative to the more commonly used malachite. Similarly, Dumortierite has a dark blue tone that...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Discover how the TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Glassbox’ stacks up against the Zenith El Primero A384 in design, movement, and authenticity to find out which revival wins.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer has just revealed its third outing with Hiroshi Fujiwara, the Japanese streetwear designer who founded fashion label Fragment Design (and is a vintage watch collector himself). The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x fragment is based on the watchmaker’s signature “Glassbox” chronograph powered by the TH20 movement. While it retains the same case and movement, the Fragment edition bears Mr Fujiwara’s familiar minimalist aesthetic, with the dial having undergone a monochromatic makeover that frees it of both colour and most of its numerals. Initial thoughts The new edition is the best of the three Fragment editions since it combines an excellent base in the form of the Carrera “Glassbox” with Mr Fujiwara’s aesthetic sensibility. I like the “Glassbox” design (though I wish it was slimmer), and equally appreciate the Fragment style, so the two together are an appealing combination. I was a fan of the original Carrera Fragment, though less so of the second instalment, an Autavia that was too chunky and not monochromatic enough. Unlike the first Carrera that had a vintage feel, the new edition is distinctly modern and all the better for it. I think vintage reissues, particularly for chronographs of the vintage Carrera era, are overdone, so the contemporary style is a big plus. At CHF8,150, this is priced close to the standard Carrera “Glassbox”, but definitely a more appealing proposition with the minimalist design. Monochromatic minimalism As with t...
Time+Tide
After a five-year hiatus, Japanese streetwear label fragment design teams up with TAG Heuer again on a stylish Carrera Glassbox.The post TAG Heuer & fragment return with their first collaboration in 5 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Patina perfect: the PAM01678 combines bronze with Panerai’s iconic Luminor Marina design for the very first time.The post Is the new Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01678 the most handsome ‘Bronzo’ yet? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Ikepod reintroduces the iconic 1990s watch with a refined name and form, the Hemipod 2025. The new model is unmistakably Ikepod but carefully modernised to retain the avant-garde spirit of the original while addressing the practical challenges that once came with it. The new Hemipod retains the design, simplifies servicing, and offers two distinctive chronograph […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Cartier Tank is among the most iconic and enduring designs in today’s horological landscape. The brand’s no-frills design, inspired by military Renault FT-17 tanks of WWI, not only shares centre stage with another innovator of the rectangular watch, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (more on that later), but it has reacted well to several significant updates, surviving modification after modification without ever losing an ounce of its integrity or charm. One example is the Cartier Tank Busculante. Article by Nina Scally [toc-section heading="Some Context"] [text-media heading="" text="Loved equally by men and women worldwide, the Tank has a fascinating history. It was born into a colossal legacy and was required to follow in the footsteps of the revolutionary Santos – an aviation watch with an unmistakable presence (big boots to fill). The Santos was the first true modern wristwatch of its time and had already set an impossibly high bar. Emerging from its square-shaped shadow, however, the Tank faced a monumental challenge." image="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/Cartier-Tank-Jackie-Kennedy-watch-2.jpg" caption=""] [image-with-caption image="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/Cartier-Tank-Basculante-Featured-Sothebys.jpg" caption="Photo by Sotheby's"] Against all odds, it became the definitive dress watch of its era. Its slim profile and perfectly blended proportions enabled it to slip neatly under the cuff of a shirt, int...
Fratello
In 2020, Wempe presented the Iron Walker family of watches. The retailer’s in-house brand, Wempe Glashütte, manufactures these watches to expand Wempe’s offerings in the popular class of steel watches featuring a sporty design with an integrated bracelet. The Iron Walker family comprises slightly sporty (Automatic and GMT), sportier (Chronograph), and fully sporty (Diver) watches. […] Visit Hands-On With Wempe’s Iron Walker Diver Bronze to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Seiko and Supercars Australia hit the road again with a brand-new limited edition for 2025! But can it keep the pace, or will it fall behind? Let’s find out! What We Love: Hot colourway and design inspiration Accessible price and wearability for most Love to see another Australian exclusive! What We Don’t: Seiko straps are always stiff Bezel far too easy to turn How ‘limited’ should a ‘limited edition’ be? Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 7/10 I think it’s fair to say that Seiko has been on quite a roll this year. It’s been a turbulent time for the watch industry, given how both the Swiss and German markets are faring under economic circumstances. But the horological ‘Beast from the East’ just keeps getting better and better. You might think this comes from behind a pair of rose-coloured glasses; After all, we at Watch Advice are passionate advocates for the Japanese powerhouse. But if you don’t want to hear it from us, try Seiko themselves. According to the brand’s 2025 Q2 report, their 2024 Financial Year (April 2024 – March 2025) saw their net global watch sales swell by nearly 12%. An impressive feat, especially considering that the Swiss Federation of the Watch Industry (FHS) reported a near 3% decline in Swiss watch exports in 2024. Seiko And Watch Advice Team Up For An Amazing Collector Night But of course, these triumphs aren’t just because people suddenly decided to buy Seik...
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