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Monochrome
Audemars Piguet added a time-and-date 38mm Code 11.59 watch to the collection in 2023, a more compact, slimmer, and redesigned version of the original series launched in 2019. The first 38mm models came with stamped dials featuring a signature ripple pattern in light blue, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50”, green and black, in rose gold cases. […]
Worn & Wound
Few small brands can claim to have the kind of success that anOrdain has experienced in recent years. Their enamel dials are so sought after that clients sit on a waitlist that reportedly stretches out to 2030. While some very high end, handmade or bespoke watches take that long or even longer to produce, waiting that kind of time for a watch that retails for around $2,500 is unusual. There’s so much competition at that price, you kind of don’t expect people to really commit for the long haul. But they do commit, and as anOrdain slowly churns out their enamel dialed watches and delivers them to their very patient customers, the legend of the brand grows. Every so often, I’ll see an anOrdain pop up on the pre-owned market, and if the asking price is reasonable (retail + expected inflation over the next 3-4 years seems about right to me) they never last long. There’s a real, genuine hunger for these watches. $2950 Review: the anOrdain Model 1 Porcelain Case Stainless steel Movement La Joux-Perret G101 Dial White Porcelain Lume None Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 5 ATM Dimensions 38 x 46mm Thickness 11mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Yes Price $2950 That of course presents all kinds of interesting challenges for anOrdain as a business. How do you scale up (do you even want to?) when the artisanal nature of your production puts a hard limit on what you can make in a month or a year? anOrdain has a multi-pronged strategy to generate revenue...
Monochrome
The most emblematic watch created by Louis Vuitton (first introduced in 2002), the Tambour has been thoughtfully revamped since 2023, starting with the release of a well-calibrated integrated sports watch. But this was just the beginning for the French powerhouse, as LV had far more ambitious plans for its icon, including the return of the […]
Worn & Wound
There were so many new releases, limited editions, and collaborations launched at Windup New York, we’re honestly still coming up for air and cataloging everything. With around 170 brands, it was a challenge to see everything (full disclosure, not even staff sees everything). And while I definitely spent some time at the Formex booth, most of my attention was on the Aria, their higher end integrated bracelet watch that debuted earlier this year and hasn’t escaped my mind since. Their new release at the show somehow slipped under the radar (at least mine) in all of the commotion. But the new Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Red Shift (the name is admittedly a mouthful) deserves some attention. The new Essence is built on the brand’s Ceramica platform, which prior to the release of the Aria was Formex’s most ambitious and compelling release. It’s a full ceramic version of their Essence sports watch with a proprietary case suspension system. The 41mm case, bracelet, and clasp are constructed entirely from black zirconium oxide ceramic. This is a material that is being used more frequently by luxury watchmakers, and it’s often priced at a premium and positioned as an exotic alternative to metal. It does have a lot of benefits, chief among them being incredible scratch resistance and a light weight compared to steel. The Ceramica is particularly appealing because, like all Formex watches, it’s priced well below any comparable piece from a major Swiss brand. This var...
Hodinkee
Windup Watch Fair has become a mainstay of New York Watch Week and one of the biggest gatherings on the city’s watch calendar, bringing thousands of watch enthusiasts together each year. Now in its eleventh edition, the fair continues to grow, with more than 160 brands (including Baltic, Brew, Sinn, and Oris) participating this year. The 2026 edition marked Windup’s third year at Center415 on Fifth Avenue, where the venue once again gave visitors the opportunity to interact with and shop from a mix of independent and established watch brands — with a handful of tech, outdoor gear, and travel brands thrown into the mix (including Ad Patina, a fan-favorite that sells historic print ads from iconic watchmakers). With free admission, Windup offers an accessible way for both longtime collectors and curious newcomers to experience the industry in person, making it no surprise that it's the world's largest public watch fair. This year, we of course wanted to check out the show, but we also decided to add a little competition to the mix. Our Editor-in-Chief, James Stacey, and Deputy Editor, Tim Jeffreys, went head-to-head to see who could make the most of a $250 budget at the fair. With plenty of watches, straps, fun gadgets, and other items to choose from, each had to decide how best to spend their money. Watch the video and let us know in the comments who had the best haul. Video Producer/Editor: Erika Kondo
Fratello
Oris unveils a new color for the refreshed Big Crown Pointer Date. Housed in a 40mm stainless steel case, the oxblood-red dial runs deep and rich. It stands apart from the pastel shades elsewhere in the collection. The darker tone feels particularly fitting as winter approaches in the Northern Hemisphere. Paired with a stainless steel […] Visit Introducing: The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date With An Oxblood-Red Dial to read the full article.
Fratello
Honestly, I only recently went hands-on with the Kiwame Tokyo Kubo Sakura. We have a team of editors, each with different interests and preferences, and Kiwame Tokyo simply wasn’t on my radar. I was pleasantly surprised when I wore it, though, so I am curious to see how watch fans will receive this new Kubo […] Visit The Kiwame Tokyo Kubo Momiji Brings Japanese Autumn To Your Wrist to read the full article.
Fratello
People in the watch community constantly misunderstand aventurine. The sparkly, often dark blue substance used for watch dials isn’t a natural gemstone dug from the ground (though a natural quartzite stone later named aventurine also exists). Rather, it’s a product of accident and human ingenuity. The aventurine we typically see in watches dates back to […] Visit First Look: Glashütte Original Brings Murano Glass To The Senator Line to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Glashütte Original’s SeaQ is certainly a luxury dive watch, but how luxurious can a dive watch get? Let’s find out! What We Love: An extremely bold, tough build Incredible legibility Beautiful movement & open caseback What We Don’t: Mobile but hulking presence nonetheless Unidirectional bezel feels too tight Is there such thing as overkill? Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Of all the archetypes of German culture, perhaps none is as universally recognised as its knack for over-engineering. Everything from Mercedes-Benz to Mettbrötchen is carefully considered, measured and executed in a manner as precise as it is complex. It’s become so quintessentially German that it’s also an international stereotype, with the intricacies of the country’s industry worshipped just as readily as they are playfully mocked. One industry that constantly walks the line between precision and complexity is horology, where brands like Glashütte Original uphold the values of German watchmaking through their timepieces. Typically, this leans towards the artistic side of things, as seen in recent Senator releases like the Aventurine and Cherry Blossom models from the Atelierauftrag line. But that doesn’t mean Glashütte Original has forgotten its engineering identity – not by a long shot. Meet the Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date, the brand’s premier dive watch. A feature-laden, robust timepiece, you might be...
Worn & Wound
As Direnzo heads toward their tenth anniversary next year, they’ve just introduced their very first GMT equipped watch, the DRZ 08 Cosmonaire. Inspired by the future oriented design of the Space Age, the Cosmonaire is, like virtually every GMT watch, conceived as a travel tool at heart, and through a variety of dial treatments really takes on different personalities depending on how it is executed. It’s filled with little details that are sure to be appreciated by enthusiasts as well, the type that might go unnoticed by the more casual observer. Direnzo describes the case design of the Cosmonaire as having a “soft geometry,” which is highlighted by an elliptical bezel that is curved and thinner on the 3 and 9 o’clock sides than those at 12 and 6 o’clock. It gives the watch a subtly organic feel and aids in helping it achieve the desired flowing profile. It’s visually interesting and I think Direnzo deserves credit here for trying something genuinely different with a slightly higher degree of difficulty. According to the brand, they were going after a look that was reminiscent of industrial design in the 1960s and 1970s, and there’s definitely something about this watch that makes it feel like it would have been at home on the wrist of a NASA employee working Mission Control during that time period. The dial is bowl shaped, which adds additional depth and visual complexity to the presentation, along with the applied hour markers and an engraved lume fill...
Fratello
The colorful world of IFL Watches takes to the sky with three new Laphont Bloc Limited Editions. Each watch features a hand-painted dial inspired by the things that seem to float effortlessly during childhood. The concept may sound abstract, but the artwork makes it easy to understand. Rather than relying on technical flourishes, the collection […] Visit The IFL Watches × Laphont Bloc Limited Editions Aim For The Sky to read the full article.
Monochrome
Minase is a Japanese microbrand specialising in complex watch cases with superlative handmade finishing. Based in Akita, Minase was founded in 2005 as a spin-off of Kyowa, a specialist manufacturer of watchmaking tools. Its portfolio of complex, multi-faceted, three-dimensional cases, featured in the Divido, Horizon and Windows collections, has attracted attention and appreciation beyond Japan’s […]
Fratello
Eliud Kipchoge (41) is a legend. On October 12th, 2019, the Kenyan athlete became the first person to run a marathon distance in under two hours. He also competed in four Olympic Games and won two gold medals, one silver, and one bronze. Now, there are plenty of lightweight watches suited to demanding athletes. But […] Visit Introducing The Artisans De Genève × Eliud Kipchoge: A Marathon-Ready 57g Titalum Chronograph to read the full article.
Deployant
The Bell & Ross BR-05 Chrono Snow Rocket pairs a 42 mm steel case with a 60-hour calibre BR-CAL.326. Limited edition of 250 pieces, retailing from €6,900.
SJX Watches
Independent-friendly auction house Marteau & Co returns today for its second themed auction of the fall. Every watch in The Blueprint is, to varying extents, blue, or at least a blue-ish purple, and its flagship lot is an unusual example of a watch that laid the blueprint for much of today’s finishing-centric independent watchmaking. As always, Marteau & Co’s “maker’s fee” rewards the maker of the timepiece with 3% of the hammer price for each watch sold. This allows watchmakers to benefit from the appreciation of their past work, also known as the artist’s resale right, or droit de suite, a concept that’s been codified into law across Europe for fine art. This painting by Franco-Belgian artist Celine Lust accompanies a unique platinum Philippe Dufour simplicity with aventurine dial. Lot 4 – Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur Azur A last minute surprise-addition to the catalog, Futur Antérieur Azur the sky-blue debut of Louis Erard and Vianney Halter’s Futur Antérieur. A unique piece created for this auction, this continues Halter’s collaborative streak, homaging the landmark 1998 Antiqua. perpetual calendar. Rather than reproducing the original watch directly, the Futur Antérieur adapts many of its characteristic elements into a more compact and accessible format. The watch retains the asymmetrical display and layered construction that distinguished the original Antiqua. Hours and minutes can be seen through one porthole, and running seco...
Worn & Wound
I’ll keep it simple: when someone says “Vianney Halter,” the first thing that comes to mind is the Antiqua. Okay, well, that assumes you are a watch nerd who knows who he is, but if you are, an image of this bizarre, visually challenging, yet brilliant watch should appear in your mind’s eye. A perpetual calendar spreads across three decentralized portholes with riveted frames that cut through the central body’s perimeter; it’s a relic from another dimension. It’s also a late-1990s design, predating the modern era of haute horology, making it a truly important artifact of independent watchmaking. And it’s ultra-rare, with a production of just over 100 units in total. All were in precious metal, and one recently set a record at auction, fetching over a million USD. This isn’t surprising, as Mr. Halter’s name has gained new relevance in the last couple of years through collaborative launches. At the last two Geneva Watch Days, watches bearing his name were likely the most talked-about launches. In 2025, he teamed with Behrens to release the KWH, an unexpected design with a peripheral “snake” time display that the brand continues to manufacture in different case materials. Though five-figure, it’s actually one of the more accessible Halters available. While unique and exciting, the KWH speaks to a wholly different aesthetic than the Antiqua, which is why this year’s GWD launch, the Bvlgari Octo Finnissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter, was so exciting....
Fratello
When luxury house Hermès unveiled the H08 in 2021, many rolled their eyes. Watch enthusiasts said, “Stick to making bags,” and doubted the Parisian brand’s horological chops. And could you blame them? It was inevitable we’d question whether the maker of the world’s most coveted leather handbags could deliver a genuinely compelling sports watch. Yet […] Visit Hermès Releases Blanc Chantilly And Bleu De Malte Versions Of The H08 to read the full article.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list. This week, we pick five of our favorite recent dive watches. After our roundup of recent field watches, it’s time to focus on another popular category. Oddly, it seems we’re seeing fewer new dive watches, even though they have long been the most popular watch category. Enthusiasts surely haven’t lost interest, […] Visit The Top 5 Recent Dive Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
Geneva Watch Days is always a treat, but 2026 held two collaboration surprises for the MONOCHROME team, both involving maverick French watchmaker Vianney Halter. Bulgari’s collaboration with Vianney Halter produced a bold Antiqua-inspired Octo Finissimo Dual Time. The second, revealed to us as a sneak preview by Manuel Emch, was Louis Erard’s Futur Antérieur. Marking […]
SJX Watches
Louis Erard has become adept at translating the design language of pricey independent watchmaking into affordable watches, and the best proof of that is the Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur. Modelled on the Vianney Halter Antiqua perpetual calendar, the Futur Anterieur is a regulator-style watch powered by two separate automatic movements. Named after Vianney Halter’s collection of steampunk watches, Futur Antérieur is Louis Erard’s third outing with the independent watchmaker, and is arguably a more sophisticated version of the preceding collaboration. While both share the same inspiration, the Futur Antérieur tangibly embodies the Antiqua, reproducing the feel of the original at a fraction of the price. Initial thoughts The Futur Antérieur is clearly an affordable watch that is not an Antiqua, but it is appealing. It captures the ambience of the Antiqua well. The shape is similar, and even the feel on the wrist. In this price segment this stands out as one of the more interesting offerings. Though this costs more than preceding collaboration editions, this is arguably better value. More broadly, the Futur Antérieur illustrates the growing sophistication of Louis Erard’s collaborations. They started as stock models with a new dial superimposed, while the Futur Anterieur is a new model conceived from the ground up. It’s also worth noting the details that replicate the Antiqua, like the chamfered edges on the case and bezel, and the stepped, two-to...
Deployant
Vianney Halter collaborates with Louis Erard once again and introduces the Futur Antérieur: a watch looking like an Antiqua. Discover the watch.
SJX Watches
This November, Phillips will present Stopping Time, a selection of 16 Rolex chronographs owned by collector and publisher Pucci Papaleo, as part of The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV, taking place on November 7 and 8 at the Hotel President Wilson. The selection is the first instalment of Mr Papaleo’s collection of approximately 70 Rolex chronographs, dating from the 1930s to the 1970s – and all in outstanding condition and some can even be rightly described as “unpolished”. Phillips presents these 16 watches as a compact survey of the Rolex chronograph: early pieces made before the Oyster chronograph was established, the waterproof chronographs of the 1940s and 1950s, and finally the Cosmograph Daytona. The Rolex ref. 6239 of about 1969 with the “Paul Newman Musketeer” dial, lot 22. Image – SJX composite/Phillips The publisher becomes a collector To say that Mr Papaleo loves vintage Rolex is an understatement — he even gave his children watch-inspired names. Besides building an impressive collection of vintage Rolex, Mr Papaleo contributed to horological knowledge as a publisher and has produced a number of reference books regularly cited in auction catalogues. Pucci Papaleo and his Rolex ref. 3233 being offered by Phillips. Image – SJX composite/Phillips His interest in watches grew out of his work in publishing. He began his career managing a small publishing house of his own, making guidebooks to Rome, Venice, and Milan, always with fine photographs. By hi...
Monochrome
Our friends at SJX, the Singapore-based watch magazine founded by journalist Su Jiaxian, are back at it with yet another collaboration watch with Habring², the Austrian independent watchmaker (and one of the best-kept secrets on the indie scene). And how can we blame them, as we also did 2 projects with them (MdS1 and MdS4, […]
SJX Watches
Our third and final collaboration with Habring² brings together the stellar motif of the Erwin “Star” and the monopusher chronograph format of the Chrono-Felix “Medicus”, adding a perpetual calendar to create our most complicated collaboration yet. Limited to 30 pieces, the Habring² x SJX Chrono Felix Perpetual “Star” pairs a glossy black dial with applied gold stars and a matching gilded moon phase display, all housed in a compact 38.5 mm stainless steel case. The key facts A vintage-inspired, perpetual calendar monopusher chronograph Piano-black dial with eight applied star-shaped hour markers inspired by vintage Rolex “Galaxy” dials Gold-plated moon phase disc at 12 o’clock with a textured moon and stars Hand-wound Habring² A11CP movement combining the A11 chronograph base with a Dubois-Depraz perpetual calendar module Chronograph pusher doubles as the day-of-the-week corrector Steel parts of the chronograph mechanism finished by German independent watchmaker Pöhlmann-Bresan Compact steel case measuring 38.5 mm in diameter and 13 mm high Triple-stepped bezel accommodates the perpetual calendar module “Star” motif repeated on the individually numbered case back and buckle Limited to 30 pieces total Priced at US$28,500 before taxes Concluding the trilogy The “CFP” formula is self-explanatory but uncommon: a hand-wound monopusher chronograph combined with a perpetual calendar, all executed in the compact, practical manner that defines the work...
WristBuzz
Norqain's 45-gram skeleton sports watch returns in a striking turquoise colourway that's hard to ignore
Worn & Wound
Maybe “trend” was always the wrong way to frame the watch industry’s collective obsession with stone dials? I don’t know about you, but I certainly feel like we might have reached a point where the stone dial is essentially just another colorway. Just as brands are expected to offer dials in blue, black, and white, perhaps we’ve reached that point where it should just be expected that they’ll offer an option (or several) in stone as well. I like the look of a stone dial, but I admit I’m getting quite bored of seeing them invade my inbox on a daily basis. This is the perspective of a guy with a very particular view on all the stone dial action. I’m not a casual observer. I work in the industry and I see, at least to some extent, how the nuts and bolts of the business works, and at the moment brands are simply cashing in on an unprecedented interest in stone (and mother of pearl) dials. Stone dials were never actually “rare” but they felt special before this boom because they were so infrequently used. Access to these dials is now virtually unlimited and, presumably, pretty affordable. So the rush continues, to the point I think where it’s just a static part of our ecosystem. And it’s that environment in which the newest member of the Farer Moonphase collection arrives. This is the Stratton II, the latest edition of what Farer says is their most popular moonphase model. The centerpiece (literally) of the Stratton II is a new moonphase disc made ...
Time+Tide
Norqain introduces the Wild ONE Skeleton X-Lite Turquoise, bringing a vibrant new colourway to its high-tech skeletonised sports watch.
Fratello
Watch fairs offer something online releases and product announcements can’t replicate — the chance to see watches in person, handle them, and talk directly to the people behind the brands. For enthusiasts, they can also be a great way to discover independent watchmakers and meet others who share the hobby. In this special on-location episode […] Visit Fratello Talks: With Daniela Pusch Live From WatchTime Düsseldorf to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
The retro-futuristic lines of the King Seiko VANAC give it character, but does the titanium frame elevate it to modernity? Let’s find out! What We Love: Angular, geometric case Strong but lightweight presence Finishing makes titanium interesting What We Don’t: Accuracy still a touch behind modern standards Thickness could have been toned down Is loud design ostentatious? Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 “A jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one” is one of the most commonplace sentiments of modern life. It governs almost everything, from the clothes we wear and the careers we pursue to the books we read, the media we consume, and the food we eat. In this chapter of modern watchmaking, the sentiment is much the same. We love a watch that can go anywhere and do anything, removing the burden of decision from our already overcomplicated lives. But is the burden of choice really such a bad thing? Is it truly more valuable to have broader appeal than a deeper one? Some say no. Thus, there’s been an uptick in maximalist design principles throughout the watch world. Being good at everything doesn’t have to be the only selling point anymore; Rather, watch designs are turning back towards specialisation in form and function to make for a more compelling case. That’s exactly what Seiko did when they revived the King Seiko VANAC collection in 2025. A model line d...
Hodinkee
"The first two days, almost nobody came to see us. We were very anxious," Carlo Crocco, the founder of Hublot, tells us, casting his mind back to Baselworld in 1980, when he stood in a booth with a single window displaying a single gold-cased watch on a black rubber strap. "On the third day, we realised that everyone was speaking about us, because it was really something different from all the other watches." We are sitting together in Milan on the eve of the Classic Fusion Tributo launch, which Hublot presents as a return to that very first design. After spending time with it in the metal, I would argue the most interesting thing about it is how firmly it refuses to be a reissue. At a time when brands can reproduce their back catalogues down to a 3D-scanned dial, Hublot has presented an evolved expression of its first watch, combining it with a design language that's taken shape over four decades. That decision makes more sense when you consider where Hublot stands today and why this watch is arriving now. Since Julien Tornare took over as CEO in late 2024, the brand has been working through a deliberate reset, investing in its Nyon campus and its movement strategy and reworking the Big Bang twice this year, with Tornare signaling early on that a Classic Fusion built around the Italian elegance of its founder would follow. The two things Crocco focused on for the Tributo, the twelve screws and the black rubber strap, are precisely what make it read as the original at a gl...
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