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Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014 which secured Nov 4, 2021

Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction

You may have heard a lot about Loupe This these past few weeks. The online auction platform, founded by Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg, recently hosted the charitable Pink Dial Project Auction, which raised $526,803 USD for the fight against breast cancer. They also auctioned off a generously donated Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014, which secured … ContinuedThe post Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Challenge Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève: This Most Affordable Of GPHG Categories Has Something For Everyone Quill & Pad
Furlan Marri Nov 2, 2021

Our Predictions In The Challenge Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève: This Most Affordable Of GPHG Categories Has Something For Everyone

Petite Aiguille is a fun Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève category with a diverse set of contestants offered at a retail price equal to or under 3,500 Swiss francs. These include rising stars anOrdain, Furlan Marri, and independent specialist Massena Lab. Oris is also present here with the chic Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy, and Doxa represents the affordable diver corner with a SUB 200 model. Last but not least, there is Ciga Design’s interesting Blue Planet.

What the Patek Phillipe 5095/1A potentially suggests about the future of the brand in steel Time+Tide
Patek Philippe introduced three new chronographs Oct 24, 2021

What the Patek Phillipe 5095/1A potentially suggests about the future of the brand in steel

Recently Patek Philippe introduced three new chronographs with complications: the 5905/1A, 5204-011, and 5930P-001. Standing out amongst the trio, to many, was the ref. 5905/1A – the first ever 5905 Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph to be released in stainless steel. Not only does the watch have a stainless-steel case, but also a matching stainless-steel bracelet … ContinuedThe post What the Patek Phillipe 5095/1A potentially suggests about the future of the brand in steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: IWC Big Pilot Ref. 5003 “Markus Bühler” SJX Watches
IWC Big Pilot Ref 5003 Oct 20, 2021

Up Close: IWC Big Pilot Ref. 5003 “Markus Bühler”

One of the most distinctive Big Pilot’s Watches IWC has ever made is also one of the least known – and even perhaps the rarest model ever. Named after its creator, the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Markus Bühler” ref. 5003 was conceived by a then apprentice at IWC and subsequently made it into production, but as a tiny limited edition of only a dozen watches. The fundamentals of the Markus Bühler edition are simple – a gently-modified Unitas 6498 – but the look effectively conveys the purpose of design. With the “turbines” on the front and back, it is unmistakably a pilot’s watch. Initial thoughts When I first saw the Big Pilot Markus Bühler at the time of its launch in 2008, I thought it was silly. Despite being a limited edition, the Big Pilot “Turbine” was a downgrade from the standard Big Pilot’s Watch, going from the impressive, in-house cal. 5000 with a seven-day power reserve to a Unitas, albeit one with unusual, asymmetric striping on the bridges. But I was wrong. The simple yet effective concept – and its intrinsic aesthetic appeal – means the Markus Bühler has grown on me. I rank it amongst the most notable Big Pilots ever. Its appeal lies in the fact that the design is straightforward and symmetrical, with minimal modification to the original Big Pilot dial, save for the seconds. The dial design was the work of Gerd Plange, who’s been part of the IWC design team since 2001. During the period when he designed the “turbine” d...

Quick takes: Zenith DEFY Extreme new for 2021 Deployant
Zenith DEFY Extreme new Oct 16, 2021

Quick takes: Zenith DEFY Extreme new for 2021

We like the look and feel of the watch; in particular for its larger size as compared to the DEFY 21. While it takes a larger wrist to pull off, the DEFY Extreme offers a compelling alternative in the skeleton sports watch category. As with the DEFY 21, the movement is ahead of most of its competitors, in technical feat and animation. The Extreme also offers multiple looks in one watch with a bracelet, rubber and velcro option interchangeable with a button quick release mechanism. Priced from US$18,000, the DEFY Extreme is a muscled up DEFY 21 for those who like a sporty chronograph with an extra heft.

Every Watch Tells a Story: Why Hugh had his Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved with his family crest Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved Oct 6, 2021

Every Watch Tells a Story: Why Hugh had his Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved with his family crest

Every Watch Tells A Story is a series of videos that asks real, non-celebrity, non-influencer, watch lovers in the @Time+Tide Watches community simply to tell the story of their watch. The answers are always relatable. And in this case, they’re also quite enviable. Hugh had his Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved with his family crest by the … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Why Hugh had his Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved with his family crest appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Surfing in Switzerland with the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic When Oct 4, 2021

Surfing in Switzerland with the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

When you think of popular sports in Switzerland beginning with ’S’, naturally skiing or snowboarding spring to mind; soccer sometimes, squash if you’re that way inclined and skydiving at a stretch. Indeed, given the country’s land-locked geographical whereabouts, it will come as a surprise to many that you can also surf there. It’s not some … ContinuedThe post Surfing in Switzerland with the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Debuts the Two-Tone Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts Oct 3, 2021

Audemars Piguet Debuts the Two-Tone Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked

One of the six Code 11.59 models in the inaugural collection launched in 2019, the Tourbillon Openworked was the flagship – and also the most interesting aesthetically. In fact, the same watch was reimagined as a unique creation for charity auction Only Watch 2019 – where it sold for one million Swiss francs. And that turned out to be a hint of what was to come. And it has finally arrived in the form of the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked, in a two-tone case just like the unique 2019 example,  but with a striking, pale grey movement finish. The million-franc Only Watch 2019 edition Initial thoughts The new Code 11.59 tourbillon differs from the original version in colour and material, seeming superficial changes that are nonetheless crucial in bringing out the best features of the design. By virtue of its material mix, the two-tone case – the middle in pink gold and the rest in white gold – obviously has more contrast than the original single-tone version. This brings out the complex case form and finishes, especially the octagonal case middle with its alternating brushed and polished surfaces. And dressing the movement in light grey is a smart move that gives the watch a casual, chic look that goes well with the two-tone case. But the alteration of the case colours only work because the fundamentals are sound – despite the criticism the Code 11.59 received at launch. Conceived as a skeleton movement from the ground up, the cal. 2498 within has an attracti...

Introducing The Bremont Kingsman Collection, Three Watches Designed For The New Spy Film "Kingsman: The Secret Service" Hodinkee
Bremont Oct 3, 2021

Introducing The Bremont Kingsman Collection, Three Watches Designed For The New Spy Film "Kingsman: The Secret Service"

What is it about spy movies and watches? Bond had his Rolex (and now his OMEGA) and Bourne had his TAG Heuer. Those characters’ movies featured watches as subtle (okay, sometimes not so subtle) product placements. But the forthcoming spy thriller “Kingsman: The Secret Service” not only has watches front and center, its producers and costume designers also actually had three watches commissioned especially for it. Those watches are from Bremont, based on two of the brand’s existing chronographs, but with some unique features and the fictional secret organization’s logo on their dials.

Inside The Manufacture: A Two-Day Visit To Chopard Hodinkee
Chopard Sep 29, 2021

Inside The Manufacture: A Two-Day Visit To Chopard

Chopard is one of the few brands out there that can boast both being independent and having a storied history, but many watch enthusiasts don't realize that Chopard is producing truly in-house movements to an extremely high level in the hills of Fleurier while also making its own cases and smelting its own gold back in Geneva. There are actually three facilities across Switzerland that make up the Chopard manufacture family and here we take you on a tour through all three.

Chopard Introduces the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Sep 28, 2021

Chopard Introduces the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF

First introduced in 2012 in the L.U.C 8HF, Chopard’s proprietary escapement was notable for being ultra-high frequency, running at twice the speed of a conventional escapement, and also one of the first such escapements to make it to serial production. But whatever the merits, the brand’s past high-frequency watches were a mixed bag in terms of design, and for that reason the brand’s technical accomplishment never gained the recognition it deserved. But now the 8 Hz escapement finally arrives in an appealing package, the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF. Initial thoughts The new Alpine Eagle is an unusual combination of a luxury-sports watch and an interesting movement with a novel escapement that runs at twice the normal speed. Like the standard version of the Alpine Eagle, the Cadence 8HF is finished to an impressively high level on the case and bracelet. That’s especially more impressive given that it’s entirely titanium, instead of steel. The design does come in for some minor criticism – the polished centre links of the bracelet are too narrow – but it is still good looking. And the Cadence 8HF has a cleaned up dial, which adds to the appeal. While impressive technically, the movement isn’t too much to look at, since the finishing is workmanlike and monochromatic. That said, the movement’s aesthetics suit the style (and price) of the watch perfectly. The Cadence 8HF is almost 50% more expensive than the regular model in steel – but it’s worth the stretc...

Louis Erard Drops Quirky Regulator in Design-Studio Collab SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Sep 23, 2021

Louis Erard Drops Quirky Regulator in Design-Studio Collab

Since recruiting Manuel Emch, best known as the former chief executive of Jaquet Droz, to advise on strategy and design, Louis Erard has rolled out interesting collaboration watches at a steady pace. To date, the brand has worked with Alain Silberstein and also Vianney Halter, both of whom added their idiosyncratic flair to the brand’s trademark regulator wristwatch. Now Louis Erard has just unveiled its fourth collaborative edition, the Le Régulateur x atelier oï. This time, however, the brand looked outside the watch industry for aesthetic direction. Founded in 1991, Atelier Oï is a design studio with a diverse repertoire ranging from furniture for Louis Vuitton to perfume bottles for Bulgari. The new regulator is the first wristwatch penned by Atelier Oï. The three founders of Atelier Oï: Aurel Aebi, Armand Louis and Patrick Reymond Initial thoughts Like the earlier collaborative editions, the Le Régulateur x atelier oï is all about design – essentially a new dial to go with the standard case and movement. Strikingly distinctive, the latest regulator is radically minimalist, with the dial doing away with all scales, indices, and branding. The dial markings consist only of straight lines arranged in a radiating spiral that create a hypnotic pattern. At the same time, the radial nature of the lines give the dial an expansive feel. Add to that the industrial, monochromatic finish and the effect is magnificent, evoking the fan-like structures found on cable-s...

HANDS-ON: The return of the Rainbow Diver Limited Edition! The 2021 Mido Decompression Timer 1961 Time+Tide
Blancpain who each began production Sep 17, 2021

HANDS-ON: The return of the Rainbow Diver Limited Edition! The 2021 Mido Decompression Timer 1961

Let’s take a quick dip into diving watch history. The brands who really birthed the category as we know it today are Rolex/Tudor and Blancpain – who each began production of their dive watches in 1953 (it should also be noted that Zodiac introduced their Sea Wolf diver in 1953 as well). Brands such as … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The return of the Rainbow Diver Limited Edition! The 2021 Mido Decompression Timer 1961 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: IWC Big Pilots in Singapore SJX Watches
IWC Big Pilots Sep 17, 2021

Highlights: IWC Big Pilots in Singapore

Fully booked before it even opened, the IWC Big Pilot Exhibition in Singapore recently closed its doors and the 31 Big Pilot’s Watches that were on show have returned home to the IWC Museum in Schaffhausen. But for those who missed the show, we round up some of the historically significant examples that were on displayed. The lineup naturally includes the very first Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002, and also the ultra-rare Markus Bühler “Turbine” ref. 5003. (And the Big Pilot Roadshow will happen in various cities in the United States starting September; details at the end of this article.) 2002 – Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002 The modern-day Big Pilot can be traced back to the gigantic beobachtungsuhr (or”B-uhr” for short) that IWC supplied to the German air force in 1940. The one that started it all was the Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 500201 (widely known as the ref. 5002) that debuted at Baselworld in 2002. Codenamed “Big Pilot’s Watch – Mark XXI” while in development, the Big Pilot was due in part to the commercial success of the compact Mark 12 pilot’s watch. At the same time, it was also devised as a platform for the recently-launched, seven-day automatic cal. 5000, a movement large enough that the resulting pilot’s watch had to be, well, big. And big it was, though the ref. 5002 was smaller than the second world war original that was 55 mm. Still it retained many of the elements that defined the vintage B-uhr – onion crown, Arabic numerals, ...

Up Close: Bell & Ross BR05 GMT SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR05 GMT Unveiled two Sep 13, 2021

Up Close: Bell & Ross BR05 GMT

Unveiled two years ago, the BR05 was Bell & Ross’ take on the integrated-bracelet sports watch – probably the hottest genre of watches now. The brand then followed up with a skeleton version and also the twin-counter BR05 chronograph. And now Bell & Ross takes the covers off perhaps the most useful iteration to date – the BR05 GMT. Though a newish arrival to a well-established genre, the BR05 was essentially derived from the brand’s trademark square watch case, a design dating to 2005 that was inspired by instrument panels of fighter jets. But the BR05 diverged from those military origins, acquiring a more refined, slightly retro appearance with its case finishing, a mix of polished and brushed surfaces, as well as an elegant integration of the bracelet. The new GMT sticks to the same design, while adding the utility of a second time zone. Initial thoughts When Bell & Ross (B&R;) offered to loan me a BR05 GMT prototype for a few days, I wasn’t expecting any surprises. But when I first got the watch in hand, I found the fit and finish unexpectedly good. The BR05 has an appealing, tactile feel, stemming from the sharply finished case and appealing design. My initial impressions were positive – the BR05 GMT lives up to the expectations set by its retail price. The best feature of the GMT is something it shares with its siblings in the collection, namely the BR05 case and bracelet. They are well finished and a good look. But the GMT stands out for its simplicity ...

Origins of the G-SHOCK MRG-B2000BS-3A Hana-Basara Revolution
Casio R&D; Sep 8, 2021

Origins of the G-SHOCK MRG-B2000BS-3A Hana-Basara

Revolution speaks with Mr Shingo Ishizaka from Casio R&D;, the key engineer behind the G-SHOCK MRG-B2000BS-3A Hana-Basara and Mr Kazuhito Komatsu, a master precious stone and pearl cutter and polishing expert, and also the man who lent his art to the extraordinary finishing applied to the Hana-Basara’s COBARION bezel. The word “Basara”, which is derived from the Sanskrit word for diamond, is a term of respect used for only the most bold and honorable of samurai, and it is this word that has inspired G-SHOCK’s new limited-edition MR-G, the MRG-B2000BS-3A “Hana-Basara”, which celebrates the 25th anniversary of G-SHOCK’s flagship collection. In feudal Japan, the Basara Busho were the boldest of the samurai, renowned in battle for their expressive, and indeed, artistic armor, and it is from them that the MRG-B2000BS-3A takes its design cues. Crafted with an ultra-hard COBARION bezel and case made from DAT55G titanium, (COBARION is about 4 times harder than titanium, while DAT55G is 3 times harder than titanium), the Hana-Basara is ideally suited to embody the fighting spirit of its namesakes. In fact, the direct inspiration for this singular G-SHOCK was a one-off suit of armor commissioned by Casio from famed armorer atelier, Suzukine Yuzan. The bezel and bracelet are rendered in a deep green DLC finish called “kurogane-iro”, while the case is treated with a brown AIP (arc ion plating) finish, which echo traditional samurai colors. But the real star of the sho...

EDITOR’S PICK: 7 of the best digital watches from A. Lange & Sohne to Gucci Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 6, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: 7 of the best digital watches from A. Lange & Sohne to Gucci

Digital watches are generally overlooked by the tastemakers of the horological elite, but we don’t think that’s really fair. Not only do they provide an interesting way of communicating the time that is easier to read (just ask your child), but they’re also a little more unusual and cut through the sea of analogue watches … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 7 of the best digital watches from A. Lange & Sohne to Gucci appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic shows a brand intent on innovation Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic Aug 16, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic shows a brand intent on innovation

The Big Bang range of watches isn’t just about what consumers want, it’s also Hublot’s love letter to watchmaking. Whether it’s a new material, movement, or even digital technology, the Big Bang is a platform from which Hublot can experiment incrementally, and the Big Bang Integral is the latest variant to be given a full … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic shows a brand intent on innovation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Casting the net: 5 under-the-radar 300m divers from Blancpain to Sinn Time+Tide
Blancpain Aug 14, 2021

Casting the net: 5 under-the-radar 300m divers from Blancpain to Sinn

The 300m depth rating is for many people a marker of what a proper diver’s watch should be, and there are some obvious contenders out there. But if you look beyond the usual suspects, there are a lot of under-the-radar options also worth considering from chronographs to monster dive instruments. Just don’t mention the term … ContinuedThe post Casting the net: 5 under-the-radar 300m divers from Blancpain to Sinn appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.