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Monochrome
The Nomos Minimatik is a small family of slim watches, a 35.5mm model with just two dial variations, powered by the brand’s in-house DUW 3001 Neomatik automatic movement. Expanding the collection, Nomos Glashütte now introduces three new references, the Minimatik 39 Date, marking the brand’s latest addition to the dress watch category. The new Nomos […]
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton has turned to Kari Voutilainen to reimagine its distinctive travel watch. The Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6 takes its cues from the Escale Worldtime, retaining the trunk-inspired case (but here in tantalum and platinum) and hand-painted, multi-colour dial, but with the artisanal elements of Voutilainen in the form of a guilloche dial and the cal. 28 movement with a second time zone. The LVKV-02 is Louis Vuitton’s second of five collaborations with independent watchmakers, after the inaugural LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie by Rexhep Rexhepi that debuted in 2023. As with the earlier project, the proceeds from the LVKV-02 will go to fund the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. “LVOUTILAINEN” Initial thoughts The LVKV-02 is instantly recognisable as a collaborative effort because the design cues of both brands are obvious and complementary. In tactile terms, it has the polished, quality feel of the typical Voutilainen watch. But the LVKV-02 is expensive, very much so, which is its only weakness. With its recent launches like the Convergence and Taiko Spin Time, Louis Vuitton has adopted a more subtle aesthetic as opposed to the extravagant style that defined much of its earlier watches. I, however, like the colourful aesthetic of the Escale Worldtime, enough that I own one. I think it remains one of the brand’s most original designs. So the LVKV-02 has an easy appeal for me. It brings back the hand-painted dial but on a much, much higher level ...
Monochrome
The Ripples Collection was presented as Speake-Marin‘s vision of a luxury sports watch with an integrated design, blending the brand’s signature aesthetic with a modern case and a distinctive dial, standing apart with its unique visual identity and refined details. When Speake-Marin celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2022, it marked the occasion with a special […]
WatchAdvice
I took the Panthère de Cartier in 18K yellow gold for review, and from the moment I held it, the watch’s elegance and refinement were undeniable. Cartier has once again proven that true luxury isn’t about complexity—it’s about timeless design, effortless wearability, and an unmistakable presence on the wrist. What We Love: The timepiece has a well-balanced design that sits elegantly on the wrist. The white dial perfectly complements the gold case, bezel and bracelet. The gold model, as expected, gives a more luxury appeal compared to the other variants of the timepiece and has a shine that is hard to take your eyes away from! What We Don’t: Lack of micro-adjustment on the bracelet for a better snug fit. Due to the highly polished finish of the gold, the timepiece is prone to scratching While the gold is stunning on the wrist, it doesn’t offer the same versatility as the steel for everyday wear. Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Cartier is renowned for crafting timepieces that strike the perfect balance between subtle elegance and distinctive flair, allowing them to stand out without being overtly flashy. The brand’s mastery lies in its use of unconventional shapes and design elements that enhance a watch’s character without overpowering its essence. The Panthère de Cartier is a perfect example of this philosophy—its design is simple and refined, yet beneath its understated appearance...
Worn & Wound
If you like your watches complicated and your timezones varied, chances are you’re already aware of the Seiko Astron GPS Solar line, first launched in 2012. No, the watch doesn’t shout haphazard driving directions at you. Instead, its latest models use GPS technology and a solar-sensitive dial to automatically update the time according to your geographic position up to twice a day. But Seiko wasn’t done there-almost exactly a year on from the introduction of the Caliber 5X83, the first pairing of Dual-Time tech with a chronograph function, Seiko has unleashed four new Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs. Each of the four new watches-references SSH175, SSH177, SSH179 and limited-edition SSH180-features a titanium bezel with a sapphire crystal insert, adding a touch of practicality and elegance to the already robust profile of the Astron. An imposing 44mm mirror-polished titanium case houses the Caliber 5X83 movement, which promises a litany of advanced features, most prominent of which is the aforementioned GPS-controlled time and time zone adjustment. A world time function, perpetual calendar correct to the year 2100, automatic DST adjustment, AM/PM and signal reception indications, accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month, and more round out the slate of functions. Of course, the titular chronographs also loom large on the dial, with a 1/20th second counter at 12 o’clock and a 12-hour counter with hours and minutes at 6 o’clock during chronograph operation...
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WatchAdvice
A bold tribute to speed, precision, and racing heritage, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Oracle Red Bull Racing brings the adrenaline of Formula 1 to the wrist. As TAG Heuer gears up to reclaim its role as Formula 1’s official timekeeper in 2025, this release feels like the perfect way to celebrate the brand’s deep-rooted connection to motorsport. What We Love: Oracle Red Bull Racing colours on the dial make the watch stand out beautifully The case doesn’t feel too overbearing on the wrist, even with a 44mm case size. The rubber strap is comfortable to wear, making this a great daily timepiece for Formula 1 and Oracle Red Bull Racing enthusiasts! What We Don’t: Black DLC case like the other TAG Heuer models in latest Formula 1 series would have made the dial and strap pop even more! The dial can seem rather busy with the many different design elements An open case back would have made it perfect! Showing the engine inside this racing-inspired timepiece. Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 There are very few brands in the world of watchmaking that share a deep connection with Motorsport as TAG Heuer. Since the mid-20th century, TAG Heuer has been a driving force in precision timing, cementing its place on the wrists of many racing legends. From Steve McQueen’s Monaco in Le Mans to its long-standing presence in Formula 1, TAG Heuer has always embraced the high-octane world of motorsport. Thi...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard has enjoyed a good run of independent watchmaker collaborations recently, and keeps it up with the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x GoS. Following last year’s Vianney Halter edition, the GoS regulator adopts the Swedish watchmaker’s signature material: artisanal Damascus steel forged by the hand of a Swedish swordsmith. The watch retains the usual Louis Erard case and movement, but has a dial of acid-etched Damascus steel hand made by Conny Persson, the knife maker who produces the exotic alloys employed by GoS, which was founded by watchmaker Patrik Sjögren in 2007. Initial thoughts I respect and admire the craft behind GoS watches, which utilise Damascus steel that is sometimes incredibly patterned. But I find the brand’s aesthetic a little too much, especially when the dials are matched with aggressively styled cases. Whereas in the Louis Erard collaboration the heavy patterning of the dial is offset by the clean lines of the no-frills, 39 mm case. More importantly, the GoS regulator is one of the few Louis Erard editions that incorporates an actual example of the collaborator’s craft, as opposed to just being a design exercise. Even though I liked the earlier Vianney Halter and Kudoke editions, they were just watches designed by the respective watchmaker’s input. The GoS regulator, on the other hand, has a dial in an artisanal material – and it remains at the same affordable price as past collabs. Exotic alloy GoS was founded by bladesmith Johan Gu...
Worn & Wound
I’ve always had a bit of a thing for character watches. I know they’re divisive, but a character watch - whether it be a ridiculously expensive Spider-Man AP or a cheap quartz Armitron with a basketball-playing Bugs Bunny on the dial - can help create a shockingly profound connection between a watch and its wearer and be (when done well) a fun reminder not to take watches too seriously. I’ve owned a lot of character watches. Many of my earliest and most favorite childhood watches, if they weren’t Timex Ironmans, were character watches, and even today, I still find myself picking up a character watch here and there, though they rarely stick in my collection for very long. Most find their way to their next owners as gifts - a vintage Snoopy tennis watch went to my mother, while the aforementioned Bugs Bunny Armitron now sits on my younger brother’s wrist most days (though, much to my annoyance, he pointedly refuses to put a battery in it). Still, most of the character watches I’ve owned over the years have found their way into the trash or were lost in various moves or purges because, for as delightful a thing as character watches are, most aren’t that good, at least as watches. To generalize wildly, most character watches I’ve owned have felt, at best, transient and, at worst, disposable (admittedly, I’ve never owned an AP Spider-Man watch, so I can’t speak to that experience). Still, my love for the concept remains, and when a watch comes along t...
Hodinkee
With a dial update for the watch world's design darling, the Anoma A1 goes black-tie.
Fratello
Honest question: why do people like the Sky-Dweller? Is it because the travel watch with the Saros annual calendar and Ring Command is a complicated piece of watchmaking? Is it the characteristic dial layout, perhaps? Or is it because if you wear this 42mm watch in precious metal, everybody within a hundred-meter radius will know […] Visit Trying To Get Airborne With The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Yellow And Everose Gold On A Jubilee Bracelet to read the full article.
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SJX Watches
The flagship watch of Breitling’s best-known watch, the Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is now more affordable. The latest iteration with an “ice blue” dial retains the specs of the pink gold 140th anniversary edition launched last year, but trades precious metal for steel. Unlike last year’s limited edition, the new steel model is regular production and is priced under US$30,000, over Breitling’s traditional sweet spot on the price spectrum but still half the retail of the anniversary edition. Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar_Ref. PB1920251C1P1_RGB Initial thoughts The new Navitimer B19 keeps it affordable, relatively speaking, by combining Breitling’s excellent in-house B01 movement with the tried-and-tested Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module. The resulting watch is thick at almost 15 mm high, but combines several complications in Breitling’s iconic slide-rule pilot’s chronograph. While the watch is pricier than most of Breitling’s offerings, it is one of the few perpetual calendar chronographs in this price range. Most of such watches tend to be a lot more expensive, although Austrian independent watchmaker Habring² offers similar for less in keeping with its focus on affordable complications. Value proposition The new B19 retains the same basic specs as its precious metal counterpart. The stainless steel case measures 43 mm in diameter and 14.94 mm in thickness. Water-resistant to 30 m, it features the Navit...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Seiko SKX173 is sometimes overshadowed by its more sought-after sister, the SKX007, but it remains a highly capable dive watch that offers a different dial while maintaining the same rugged dependability. With its distinct dial design and ISO-certified durability, the SKX173 has long been a favorite among enthusiasts.
Time+Tide
A blue-tinted sapphire dial, luminous rubber strap and thin proportions make this elevated dive watch an attractive beast.The post Christopher Ward’s azure C60 Sapphire Edge cuts a slim and stylish figure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko is releasing a new Vanac collection this week, and with it, a new automatic movement. The Vanac made its first appearance in the King Seiko catalog back in 1972, complete with all the funky design details you’d expect of a watch of this era. A large, prism-like case with flat surfaces, faceted crystals, and highly dynamic dial textures and colors left a big impression, and that’s exactly what Seiko is looking to recapture in modern guise with the new King Seiko Vanac. It’s not a re-issue, but it is a throwback, and one that will look to set a modern foundation, and if it’s anything like its predecessor, we can look forward to plenty of variety to come. The original Vanac was short lived, but its flame burned brightly, with a wide range of references released, most of which featured bright dials and integrated bracelet designs. Seiko says that the original meaning of the word "Vanac" has been lost to time, so they’ve come up with a modern acronym to suit the modern personality of the new collection: Vibrant; Active; Novel; Alternative; and Comfortable. The message Seiko is trying to convey with this watch is one of innovation, and breaking barriers, and the brand views buyers of this watch as trailblazers and visionary types. Make of that what you will. The new Vanac picks up where the original left off, with a sharp, angular case boasting large flat surfaces that transition between brushed and polished finishes. This is set to an integrated bracelet tha...
SJX Watches
In the 1970s, arguably no watch brand was having more fun than Seiko, which launched the bold King Seiko Vanac collection in 1972. Five decades on, Seiko returns to the concept with the all-new King Seiko Vanac, with bold dial colours and an angular, faceted case inspired by its namesake. Despite an entirely new design – the modern-day Vanac is not a remake – the collection captures the style and spirit of the funky 1970s originals perfectly. Available in five different dial colours, each inspired by the Tokyo skyline at a different time of day, the Vanac also features a new automatic cal. 8L45, now the highest-spec movement for Seiko’s mid tier watches. Initial thoughts The past decade has treated us to more than our fair share of vintage reissues, which by and large have focused on the glorious designs of the 1950s and 1960s. But there are only so many historical designs from this era that a brand can revisit, and as we move into 2025, it’s nice to see a little variety as Seiko looks to the 1970s. And while the Vanac is very much vintage inspired, it isn’t quite a reissue of any particular historical model. Though the bracelet is integrated, the design is different enough from Gerald Genta’s designs that it avoids the common pitfall of looking like it’s trying too hard to look like something else. A selection of vintage Vanac watches The Vanac features a 41 mm case that is quite chunky at 14.3 mm. The case itself is essentially an elongated hexagon, with a ...
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SJX Watches
Having made its debut two years ago with the Schwarz Etienne-powered HN00, Havid Nagan returns with Classic One, a chronometer-certified dress watch with a multi-layered dial. Available in two dial finishes, ebony or ivory, the Classic One takes the nascent brand in a new, more traditional direction. The Havid Nagan brand was launched on Kickstarter in 2019 by Aren Bazerkanian, who at the time was working as Director of Operations at the FP Journe boutique in Los Angeles. One of the guiding principles of Havid Nagan is an emphasis on slimness, which is an obsession that Mr Bazerkanian picked up from his time working for Mr Journe. Initial thoughts The original HN00 and subsequent HN01 were thoughtful and appealing watches, but the Classic One feels like a more mature product. In my opinion, the debut models were a bit overambitious with their proprietary strap system, which, though sleek and attractive, result in the risk of not being able to find replacement straps in the future. The Classic One, on the other hand, is more traditional in its construction, with classic lugs that can accommodate a variety of straps (the watch comes standard with straps from Jean-Rousseau). As a result of being more classical in orientation, the central feature of the Classic One is its multi-part dial with an unusual construction made up of clear sapphire sandwiched by brass discs. Finished with applied Calatrava-style hour markers, the overall effect is dynamic and attractive. In terms of...
SJX Watches
The latest iteration of Dior’s asymmetrical wristwatch builds on last year’s all-black release. The new Chiffre Rouge Chronograph retains the signature asymmetrical DLC-coated steel case, but adds a striking red-gradient dial adorned with Dior’s trademark geometric pattern. But this is not merely a “fashion watch”, as inside is the Zenith El Primero 400, another example of the group-level movement strategy at LVMH. Initial thoughts Dior has been producing watches since the 1970s, but struggles to resonate with watch enthusiasts, who often dismiss its offerings as “fashion watches” – a challenge faced by other fashion or leather goods makers. The brand has been making “serious” watches on and off over its history, and last year reintroduced a Chiffre Rouge Chronograph powered by the El Primero. While the stark, edgy design of the watch is not for everyone, it is mechanically credible, albeit steeply priced. At US$17,000, the price is definitely more Dior than Zenith. It’s also substantially pricier than last year’s model with the same movement. The value proposition is difficult to justify. A more advanced movement, like Zenith’s latest generation El Primero 3600, would make this more compelling. Red gradient dial The new Chiffre Rouge mirrors last year’s model, retaining the signature cannage-patterned crown and polished bumpers on the right flank. The chief update is the red gradient dial, which features Dior’s signature geometric motif. Powe...
Worn & Wound
From their distinctive lower-case name to their cohesive brand aesthetics, echo/neutra has upheld a reputation of stylized simplicity since their founding in 2019. With the Averau 39 Moon Phase, released in 2022 as a follow-up to the original Averau field watch, the young Italian brand proved that they could introduce complications without sacrificing the clean design ethos they’ve since become known for. A “Big Moon” version with both black and white dial options would follow in 2024 and become arguably the brand’s most recognizable watch, due to its strikingly photo-realistic moon disc. For the new Averau 39 Moon Phase Noctilum, however, echo/neutra has plucked the traditional double-moon phase indication from the first Moon Phase model and given it a new minimalist look. A limited edition project joint-helmed by echo/neutra and Ace Jewelers of Amsterdam, the Noctilum emphasizes bold legibility-while the subdial at the 6 o’clock position remains, the realistically-textured moons have been replaced by contrasting black and luminous white alternatives. Continuing with the paring-down of design elements, the hands and 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock indices are the same matte black as the dial, but feature luminous white borders, creating an impressively emotive and legible “inverted lume” effect in dark conditions. Further deviating from the original, the Noctilum deletes the Arabic hour numerals and the “2649 MSLM” script between 7 and 8 o’clock. The r...
Monochrome
Last year, Audemars Piguet announced the end of the calibre 5134, the automatic movement that has powered most of its modern perpetual calendar watches for the past 10 years – mostly, the classic RO Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar, which performed its swan song with a limited edition made with John Mayer. But the 5134 was not […]
Monochrome
About a year ago, when Audemars Piguet held its yearly event to present its new collection, the brand introduced a highly appealing version of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding, made with artist and seasoned collector John Mayer. Besides the incredibly textured dial, AP issued a highly important statement. This watch marked the swan song […]
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SJX Watches
IWC gives its exceptionally shock resistant – and strikingly expensive – aviator’s watch a new look. The Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff is dressed in the black and green livery of the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team that’s sponsored by IWC and led by Austrian auto entrepreneur Toto Wolff. Although largely unchanged from the original version, the Toto Wolff edition features a stamped, grained dial with a cleaner aesthetic and open-worked hands. And the BMG shock-absorbing spring that rings the movement is coated in Petronas green Super-LumiNova for maximum visual effect. Initial thoughts Despite its (very) limited commercial success, the original Big Pilot XPL is an interesting example of horological engineering. While its considerable price tag was debatable, the technology inside was novel and exemplifies IWC’s historical focus on engineering. The new iteration is hardly revolutionary since it’s merely a cosmetic makeover, but it does bring a new aesthetics that might give the watch a bigger audience, especially with the high profile of Formula 1 and Toto Wolff himself thanks to the Netflix series about the sport. The new Toto Wolff edition is priced at US$102,000, comparable to the first version and steep for a time-only watch, especially so for an IWC. However, seen another way, the price is perhaps competitive since the another brand that has long emphasised shock resistance and Formula 1 is Richard Mille, and any of its watches is...
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross, the Franco-Swiss watchmaker celebrated for its aviation instrument-inspired timepieces, ventures into the celestial realm with the BR-03 Astro. This striking new model, limited to 999 pieces, takes inspiration from the larger theme of space exploration, capturing the Earth, Moon, and Mars within its avant-garde dial. Despite the seemingly cosmic display, the dial only indicates the hours, minutes, and seconds in a conventional manner, keeping the watch affordable. By merging sharp execution with a cosmic narrative, Bell & Ross introduces an imaginative take on its mostly functional “tool” watches. Initial thoughts At the core of the BR-03 Astro sits a unique, if simplistic, reinterpretation of a “planetary” movement. Over the celestial aventurine glass base, a tiny Mars indicates the hours, a realistic-looking Moon indicates the minutes, and a satellite marks the passing seconds. All these indicators revolve around a large Earth that rests immobile at the centre of the dial. What is basically a three-hand watch becomes a rather immersive reinterpretation of the universe. While the motion of the planets is not accurate, the interplay of these well-reproduced celestial bodies has an undeniable appeal to it. The BR-03 Astro is not an astronomical complication nor an accurate cosmos model but manages to appeal through its playful take on the space theme, while staying in the same price range as the more conventional BR-03 models. This is an interesti...
Fratello
It has been a few years since we last featured Mitch Mason on Fratello. We reported on the brand’s Maelstrom dive watch series, which has been quite a success for the Singaporean brand. The new Maelstrom Tales of the Sea is an updated version of the initial Maelstrom. It features a revised dial with a […] Visit Hands-On With The New Mitch Mason Maelstrom Tales Of The Sea to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko’s Alpinist collection is welcoming a new member this week with the release of a new GMT reference featuring a dial inspired by the hornbill, a tropical bird of Southeast Asia. The watch is a Land Alpinist using the brand’s 6R54 caliber, and while this is an existing configuration released back in 2023, there are a few unique details here worth noting - from dial textures and colors to the black bezel piece. This watch is not only a celebration of the majestic hornbill, but also an expansion of the Alpinist platform that goes beyond the existing framework, hopefully opening the door to more expressive variations moving ahead. The Alpinist GMT was released in 2023 in what felt like a very natural move for the collection. As part of the Prospex Land family, the new Alpinist references utilized a fixed, 24-hour steel bezel and an internally rotating compass bezel. Use of the 6R54 allowed the addition of a 24-hour hand into the mix; however this is the so-called “caller” style of GMT hand, meaning the hour hand cannot be set independently on the go. Still, it’s a welcome addition to the modern series carrying forth Seiko’s historic Alpinist name, and retains the charming design of the original. This newest reference to the collection is the SPB493J, and it mixes up the formula just enough to stand apart from the rest. This watch uses base blacks set against the steel 39.5mm case and bracelet, with the inclusion of a deep green color used for the rotating inn...
SJX Watches
Piaget is dialling up the complexity of its popular sorts watch with the Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase. Housed in a 44 mm, cushion-shaped titanium case, the new Polo features a partially open-worked dial that reveals the flying tourbillon - with cage topped by a stylised “P” - alongside a moon-phase indicator at six o’clock. Interestingly, the ultra-thin cal. 642P inside is a form movement in a tonneau shape. Initial thoughts The Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase adds an interesting pair of complications to the Polo, but without impacting the simplicity or symmetry of the dial. It’s a high-end alternative to the more affordable Polo models, like the Skeleton Ceramic, but it is also the largest Polo at 44 mm in diameter. This will affect wearability, making it versatile than the smaller-format Polo models. That said, because the movement is ultra-thin, the large case has an elegant, thin profile. As an aside, an open back would have been a welcome addition, since it would provide a view of the tonneau-shaped movement. Tourbillon This 44 mm cushion-shaped titanium case is finished with alternating mirror polishing and satin-brushing, complemented by blue-coated inserts on the case flanks. Water-resistant to 100 m, it frames a partially open-worked dial that’s finished with horizontal fluting as is standard for the Polo. Visible from both the front and back, the flying tourbillon is framed by a blue seconds ring on the dial, allowing the cage to double up as ...
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