Results for Equation of Time

Bring a Loupe: A Seiko Sportura, A Breitling Tabarly Racing Mate, A Hublot Classic Fusion Orlinski, And More

I know we're all here for watches, but there's been so much killer music released in the last bit that it feels foolish not to at least note that, should you require some new jams, recent albums from Twisted Teens and Phoebe Bridgers are plenty deserving of attention, and if you haven't checked out the available tracks from the new Alabama Shakes, hoo boy. I hope you're all well as the days tick along. Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Lemania RAF monopusher sold for 2,000 GBP, and I can't find what the Goodwill UG Clapton ultimately went for, but I saw it cleared $24,000. From the dealers, the Alpina-Gruen sold. The Cartier Shutter and RAN monopusher both remain available. Strays You really like watches and are also a sophisticated connoisseur, and you need a new table lighter—to ignite your guests' cigars; what sort of host would you be otherwise—because someone made off with your last one? Here's a nice sterling Alfred Dunhill for you which, yes, has a watch in it as well because, again, you're sophisticated. Had there not been another watch in the same auction that seemed more interesting, this Omega 2998-4 would obviously have had a full write-up, but I'm also not sure what I would've written other than look at that thing. If you're up for a trio of watches, this lot's got a Tourneau "Top Gun," a solid gold Charles Nicolet, and a fowl-related Helbros for the hunter in your life; and while this Audemars Freres has a rough dial, Audemars Freres watches are uncommo...

The Top 5 Omega Models From The 1990s

Another Friday, another list! This week, we follow up on last week’s list that was based on a discussion we had on Fratello Talks three weeks ago. In that episode, Robert-Jan, Nacho, and I discussed the ultimate decade for watches. RJ and I chose the ’90s as our favorite because new technology significantly improved overall […] Visit The Top 5 Omega Models From The 1990s to read the full article.

Kiwame Tokyo’s New Automatic Dress Watch Takes Minimalism Seriously

The new Kiwame Tokyo Yane pairs a rectangular case with Japanese architectural references, a minimalist lacquer dial, and a Miyota automatic movement.

Introducing: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Limited Edition

What We Know The 1950s were big years for Blancpain—first in 1953 with the introduction of the Fifty Fathoms, then a few short years later in 1956, when the Bathyscaphe arrived as a "civilian counterpart" as diving gained popularity. Revived in 2013, it's remained a core part of the modern Fifty Fathoms lineup ever since. We're not strangers to the Bathyscaphe here at Hodinkee, either—we teamed up with Blancpain on our own limited edition back in 2019. Today, to mark the Bathyscaphe's 70th anniversary, Blancpain is releasing a 300-piece limited edition that takes inspiration from the 1968 reference and updates it in all the right ways. The homage to the '68 piece is evident at a quick glance; the first thing I noticed was the vintage Blancpain logo, which sets the tone for what the brand is trying to do here. The sunburst meteor grey dial is lifted straight from the 1968 piece as well, as are the baton hands and indexes in 18k white gold, both filled with a vintage-colored Super-LumiNova that gives the lume a warmer, aged look straight out of the box. The steel bezel extends into a ring at the base of the box crystal—another detail pulled directly from the '68 watch—and its ceramic insert with lacquered numerals swaps out the original's black hesalite. That same fidelity carries through to the case. At 37.4mm in stainless steel, it's sized to match the 1968 piece on which it draws inspiration, rather than the smaller 35mm case Blancpain used on the original 1956 Ba...

Introducing - Tutima Expands its Fleet with the Compact Flieger T5 in Titanium

Tutima, based in Glashütte, earned its wings in the 1940s with its military and pilot’s watches and, in 1941, produced Germany’s first two-pusher flyback chronograph (later referred to as the Flieger). In 2019, Tutima released a contemporary, less tool-oriented, time-and-date take on the Flieger. The latest model to join the squadron is the Flieger T5, […]

Jacques Bianchi Introduces their First Watch in Partnership with the Olympique de Marseille Football Club

Jacques Bianchi, the Marseille based brand specializing in dive watches, has released the first watch in what is expected to be an ongoing partnership with Olympique de Marseille, the city’s historic football club. This has been a big summer for soccer, of course, with the World Cup being held in North America right in the middle of summer, and if your individual case of football fever hasn’t exactly been cured yet, the new diver based on the brand’s popular JB200 platform might be of interest. And even if it’s not, it’s an interesting diversion from Jacques Bianchi that might point to some broader ambition from the brand as it relates to artistic craft, and chronometry.  First, let me say that while I have no particular allegiance to Olympique de Marseille, I have a soft spot for soccer watches. The first watch I bought after writing about it for Worn & Wound was a Timex x Nigel Cabourn “Referee Watch,” which sits on my desk to this day, ticking away. Soccer of course has a unique approach to timing among the major team sports in that a clock counts up to the end of a 45 minute half, with the referee having a great deal of latitude to add time to the clock at his or discretion that takes into account the normal stoppages of play. This principle is further complicated by the fact that the referee solely holds this information – the clock counting up that players and spectators see in the stadium or on television is essentially always just an estimate. The ...

Jérôme Lambert, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, explains the new Master Control Collection

Seiko Doesn’t Rest On Its Laurels: Introducing Two Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Watches

Seiko’s and Japan’s very first wristwatch, the 1913 Laurel, is one of the prettiest watches I have ever seen. More than a century after its conception, it still looks fresh. It’s also, as you can imagine, a rather important watch. To underline that and make it possible to wear a watch that honors the beginning […] Visit Seiko Doesn’t Rest On Its Laurels: Introducing Two Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Watches to read the full article.

Hands-on - Armin Strom’s Orbit in Midnight Purple Regalia

In the world of mainstream watchmaking, unconventional ideas rarely make it past the concept stage. But for an independent, inventive brand with a fully integrated manufacture like Armin Strom, the possibilities are far broader. While the brand is perhaps best known for its mastery of resonance in wristwatch form, Armin Strom turned its attention to […]

Seiko Presage x Tradman’s Bonsai HCC009J1 Turns Pine Into Gold

Seiko has introduced the Presage Classic Series x Tradman’s Bonsai Limited Edition HCC009J1, a new mechanical watch built around the colour and texture of a Japanese pine tree. It is scheduled for release in September 2026 and production is limited to 2,000 pieces worldwide. This is not a simple green-dial version of an existing Presage. The dial, gold-coloured case and included accessories all connect to the bonsai theme. A dial shaped by an old pine tree Tradman’s Bonsai was founded in 2015 with the aim of presenting traditional Japanese bonsai in a modern way. For this collaboration, the main reference is a sanko-matsu pine that is said to be more than 150 years old. The textured Matsuba-iro dial is inspired by the bark and needles of an old Japanese pine. The dial uses a deep green colour called Matsuba-iro, named after pine needles. Its strong pattern is inspired by the rough bark of an old pine tree. Light catches the raised texture from different angles, while the gold hands, applied hour markers and printed text stand clearly against the dark background. There is no date window, so nothing cuts through the pattern. Gold colour without a gold case The 38 mm case and bracelet are made from stainless steel with a gold-coloured hard coating. It is important to be clear that this is not a solid-gold watch. Seiko mixes brushed and polished surfaces across the case and multi-row bracelet, then adds a fine pattern around the bezel for more detail. The case measures 12....

Anders & Co adds its signature stone dial to its chronograph

Bringing its expertise in hard stone dials to its early chronograph model, the vintage styling stays strong across the collection.

The Summer of Ana-Digi: a Helpful Guide to the Retro Format

Analog and digital timepieces used to wage war on the wrists of horological enthusiasts. Nowadays, though, they’re more of a united front against the tide of smart watches and phones, offering wildly differing price points, use cases, and aesthetics. No longer is a digital calculator watch seen as “nerdy”, as celebrities and public figures like New York mayor Zohran Mamdani are frequently seen rocking the classic Casio silhouette. And despite their seemingly anachronistic focus on tactile functionality and focus, analog watches have never been more popular with young people looking to escape the crushing presence of their digital lives. That’s where the analog-digital (“ana-digi”) format comes in. A clever combination of the best features of both types of “old school” timekeeping, new iterations like the Autodromo Group C Turbo Sport are priced compellingly, and cast a wide net despite sometimes venturing outside of most design conventions. They can be a great introduction to the larger world of watches, and unique conversation pieces in their own right. So, let’s dive in and take a look at some notable ana-digi watches from watchmakers you already know and love, and what sets them apart from their more traditional stablemates.  G-SHOCK Starting with the undisputed king of digital watches, Casio’s G-SHOCK sub-brand has a frankly staggering amount of ana-digi options on hand. Their aptly-named Analog-Digital collection boasts over 100 models currently a...

Rally for the Ages: A Tudor Experience in the Cotswolds

Saturday, 11 July, 11:56AM. “30 Seconds” the timekeeper announces above the fluttering idle of the MG’s 4-cylinder dual carbureted motor. It’s not even midday and I am sweating. Part of it is the epic heatwave hitting Britain and the rest of Europe. Part of it is nerves. “15 Seconds” reminds the timekeeper. I’ve long shaken off the drowsiness from a poor night’s sleep. The cheers from Cole and the rest of the crows representing Tudor fade as concentration takes over. I glance back down at the route book in my lap. Test one is a simple task- only a dozen or so cones and a few slaloms to navigate in the span of a single minute. Simple. I am already feeling the pressure. Shortly, it’s going to get a lot more complicated. “10 Seconds”. Jacob, the driver, looks over at me and clutches in and slots the car into first gear. No words are needed in these precious few seconds. We know what we need to do. I’ve already synchronized the Tudor Ranger 39mm on my left wrist to the exact time of day- in case I forget to reset the stopwatch. A highlighter in my left hand, a pen in my right. Left page- my landmarks, intersections, and signposts. Right page-my time and distance benchmarks.  “Five. Four. Three. Two. One. GO!” Jacob gives it gas and clutches out. As the MG leaps forward, my nerves vanish and what little instinct I’ve picked up in the last 15 hours have kicked in. The scream of the MG’s engine tells me it’s about to kiss redline. Jacob executes...

Windup in a Lake 2026: Celebrating Fifty Years of Citizen Eco-Drive Innovation and One Unforgettable Recovery Mission

For the last three years, Citizen¹ has supported what has affectionately become known as Windup in a Lake—a diving event on Lake Michigan coinciding with Windup Watch Fair Chicago. We’ve celebrated Promaster¹ milestones with folk legends, and thrown ’80s-themed aquatic parties for Aqualand. But this year marked the 50th anniversary of Citizen Eco-Drive¹ innovation. To […]

The elegant case for the modern summer watch

Conversations: American Watchmakers Jason Lu and Zach Smith of 1776 Atelier

The 250th anniversary of the founding of the United States did not escape notice from the nation’s fledgling watch industry. To mark the occasion, 1776 Atelier released the Liberty 250, a watch credibly claimed to be more than 90% US-made. The brand’s most American-made and technically ambitious watch to date, the Liberty 250 also illustrates the difficulty of building a complicated mechanical product without an established domestic supply chain. Its HP 917 movement is the product of extensive iterative development, incorporating newly manufactured components, a free-sprung balance and a markedly more elaborate finishing programme. We sat down with the brand’s co-founders, Jason Lu and Zach Smith, to unpack the 90% figure, discuss the challenges of manufacturing watches in the United States and understand what the Liberty 250 means for the future of the brand and American watchmaking more broadly. The Liberty 250 is the most American-made product yet from Atelier 1776. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Brandon Moore (BM): Why start a watch company in the United States, particularly given the limited domestic supplier network and the additional cost involved? Jason Lu (JL): Because this is where we live, and this is where we wanted to build it. The United States was founded on ingenuity, and American watchmaking has a remarkable history. The fact that much of the former infrastructure no longer exists does not mean it cannot be rebuilt in a new form. Th...

Industry News - LVMH Reports Accelerating Growth for the First Half of 2026, Incl. for the Watch Division

Recent financial statements by industry institutions and groups have been on the positive side, with what seems to be a comeback of growth, after a couple of rather difficult years for the watch industry. Indeed, Richemont reported sales up by 20% for its first quarter of 2026, the Swatch Group indicated sales up 8.5% in […]

Explained: Grande Sonnerie Click Wheels

A visual staple of grande sonnerie watches is a pair of large, highly finished and intriguing-looking click wheels. Continuing our exploration of various horological energy systems — including winding efficiency and the fusee and chain — we examine the linkage of ratchets, clicks and wide-toothed gears that comprise the winding works of some of the industry’s best chiming watches. A Patek Philippe grande sonnerie movement from 1915. One crown for two barrels The grande sonnerie is rightfully considered the pinnacle of chiming complications. With the ability to automatically sound the hours and quarters, a grande sonnerie requires heaps of power to keep it going over the course of a day. As a result, most grande sonnerie movements rely on a second mainspring barrel that is isolated from the timekeeping going train. The requirement for independent barrels stems from the different rates at which the barrels unwind. The striking works require a faster-turning barrel that’s only active for short periods, while the going train feeds from a slow and steady barrel. Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch crafted by Philippe Dufour. As the barrels discharge unevenly, it makes sense that they cannot be wound in sync. Winding both mainsprings in sync would typically over-strain one of them since their winding states are rarely the same at any given time. Although the two barrels themselves are separated, they often share the same winding train. Now a signature of Vallée...

BA111OD Introduces a New Version of their Chapter 7 Skeleton Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch

Swiss indie BA111OD has introduced a new version of their Chapter 7 integrated bracelet sports watch featuring a skeleton dial. BA111OD has quietly been building a reputation these last few years for challenging long held conventions about value and what can be expected at certain price points (they make tourbillons starting at around $10,000). While the brand was founded in 2019, the family behind it has a watchmaking lineage that goes all the way back to the 18th century, so their perspective is shaped by both traditional Swiss watchmaking values and modern design sensibilities. I’ll be honest, my first reaction to the core Chapter 7 watches when they were initially introduced was essentially a shrug of the shoulders. Certainly there was nothing wrong with it, but it seemed to me to be yet another integrated bracelet design, an idea that has quickly become generic in these years following the Royal Oak and Nautilus boom. Somehow, though, with the skeleton version of the Chapter 7, first seen with an anthracite PVD treatment, the watch seemed to come together for me. I’m a sucker for a well executed skeleton treatment on a sports watch, and BA111OD’s approach, with cantilevered indices over a solid rehaut surrounding the open dial, makes for a legible and easy to digest presentation.  Last week, BA111OD unveiled a new version of the Chapter 7 Skeleton with a natural steel finish that they say is inspired by the summer light in Neuchâtel, where the brand is based. ...

Buying Guide - The Sounds Of Time, with 7 of Today’s Finest Repeater Watches

Think back to a time without electricity or street lights, and you immediately understand the concept of a minute repeater, or any other kind of chiming watch for that matter. Breaking the silence of the dead of night must have been an almost magical experience back then. Even today, a carefully crafted system of hammers […]

Our Favorite Watches That Feel Luxurious Without the Price or Baggage

After months of hands-on wear, these 12 watches delivered the finishing, comfort, character, and everyday satisfaction we associate with luxury.

Grail Creep - The Myth Of The Endgame Watch

Admit it: you have one too! The mythic grail watch lives rent-free in any watch enthusiast’s mind. It’s that one watch that would be the pinnacle of our collecting lifestyle, fulfilling our wildest horological dreams. Maybe it could even be the endgame watch, finally keeping our hungry bellies filled forever. Unfortunately, we’re fighting our biological […] Visit Grail Creep — The Myth Of The Endgame Watch to read the full article.

Casio GWR-B3000 Gravitymaster Pre-Orders Open With New TOUGH MVT.2

Casio’s new flagship aviation G-Shock is no longer just a launch announcement. UK pre-orders are now open for the GWR-B3000 Gravitymaster family, introducing a metal-supported structure, sapphire crystal and the first major evolution of Casio’s TOUGH MVT. analogue movement in 18 years. Three versions are entering the runway: the black-and-silver GWR-B3000-1A, the blue GWR-B3000A-2A and the coordinated grey GWR-B3000B-8A. All share the same Japanese-made construction, Tough Solar power, Multiband 6 radio control, Bluetooth connectivity and Triple G Resist protection. The choice is therefore about colour and finishing rather than accepting fewer functions on the least expensive model. UK pre-orders are open now Casio UK lists all three watches for pre-order, with expected delivery in four to six weeks. The GWR-B3000-1A costs £750, the blue GWR-B3000A-2A is £800 and the grey GWR-B3000B-8A reaches £870. Casio’s European pages mark the collection as new for August 2026; published European pricing is €799 for the 1A and €899 for both coloured versions. Official US pricing has not yet been announced. For international context only, conversions of the current British prices are approximately $1,010, $1,075 and $1,165 respectively. Those are currency conversions, not US recommended retail prices, so taxes and Casio’s eventual regional positioning may produce different numbers. ReferenceUK priceEuropean priceApprox. USDGWR-B3000-1A£750€799About $1,010GWR-B3000A-2A...

A Watch Worthy of a Dentist Visit: the Christopher Ward Twelve 36 (Ti) Pick ‘n’ Mix Limited Edition

One thing you can’t credibly accuse Christopher Ward of is being afraid of color. Hot on the heels of their Twelve Xander, a colorful and abstract limited edition collaboration with the Dial Artist that sold out in a single day, the UK based brand is back with the Twelve 36 (Ti) Pick ‘n’ Mix Limited Edition, a series of small Twelves that draw on a nostalgic love of sugary, colorful candy, the kind that you used to be able to buy in bulk by the pound at movie theaters to escape a hot summer day (sorry, but that’s a core memory for me).  These new 36mm editions of the Twelve are available in a total of six colorways, and their defining feature is a dial texture that the brand says replicates the sugar coating on the types of candy that we’re now, years and years later, told is essentially poison and that we should stay away from. The texture looks great in these Christopher Ward supplied images, but I’ll be honest: I’m not sure I immediately think of candy when viewing them, although I’m happy to make the connection. It begs the question, though, if every similar texture we’ve seen over these last few years is actually a candy dial? Something to think about.  OK, the dial colors. The collection consists of Sour Apple (green), Kola Krystals (brown), Fizzy Orange (orange), Cherry Pop (red), Blue Sherbet (blue), and Berry Burst (purple). In terms of candy alone, I feel the strongest pull toward Sour Apple (really, anything sour is immediately at the top of ...

Quick Takes: Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Elbrouz

Quick take with hands on and live photograps of the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Elbrouz, the highest mountain in Russia and Europe.

In-Depth: IWC’s Pioneering ProSet Perpetual Calendar

IWC’s history is dotted with landmark innovations such as Albert Pellaton’s pawl winding system, Kurt Klaus’ famous perpetual calendar, and Richard Habring’s split-seconds chronograph module; the ProSet perpetual calendar system continues this legacy. This bidirectional perpetual calendar module made its debut earlier this year at Watches & Wonders inside the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet, and remains true to IWC’s identity as an engineer’s manufacture. A smaller Big Pilot QP The Big Pilot ProSet unveiled at Watches & Wonders blends the manufacture’s latest engineering feat with the beloved styling of the pilot’s watch. The ProSet system is currently only available inside the 42 mm Big Pilot. Powered by a downsized base calibre, the 42 mm ProSet is the first Big Pilot under 46 mm to include a perpetual calendar. IWC has a tweaked and scaled down the its signature Kurt Klaus module in the past for the 42 mm Portugieser and some Portofinos, but somehow it never made into the reduced Big Pilot collection. Unfortunately, these smaller watches lacked the now-iconic digital year display, and instead featured a subtler (but more forgettable) leap cycle aperture. The ProSet brings back the four-digit year display, making this watch almost indistinguishable from the original 46 mm version. Apart from some styling choices, the main difference in the displays is the lack of a power reserve indicator. The cal. 82665 inside is powered by a single mains...

Omega Dynamic: Revisiting A Cult-Classic Watch That Was Ahead Of Its Time

The unusual but ergonomic design spanned several decades and product families. More

Review: the Fears Brunswick 40 “Helmsman”

I want to preface this whole review by stating that I’m not that much of a yachtsman. My last experience on a “yacht” was when I helped a buddy of mine move his sailboat. We needed to move the boat a scant 20 miles. Except that was the distance when traveling by land. Luckily, we live on an island (a Long one) and had some available water to move the boat. 23 hours, nearly 100 miles, too much sun exposure, and many bags of chips later, we made it through a stretch of the Atlantic Ocean around Long Island, then up through NYC’s East River and into the Long Island Sound. On my wrist was a Bertucci Field Watch — not exactly the most suited timepiece for the job, but since we stayed in the boat and out of the water, it worked just fine. Perhaps the journey would have gone a bit smoother had I had the right watch for the job…like the Fears Brunswick Helmsman. If this watch was on wrist, maybe we could have avoided the three hours straight of choppy seas off the Rockaways, remembered to put some more sunscreen on, and not decided to put the sail up five minutes before hitting a random thunderstorm. Fears Watch Co. was much more considerate in designing their Brunswick 40 “Helmsman” – a cushion-cased watch sporting 200 meters of water resistance, a bright white dial, blue accents, and a vibe that’s right at home on a sailboat. Let’s take a closer look at this watch that was designed for “those who find themselves regularly at the helm of a yacht or boat”...

Introducing: The Solar Orbiter Watch Winder For The MB&F; M.A.D.Gallery

What We Know This year marks 15 years of MB&F;'s M.A.D.Gallery, a unique boutique concept that serves as both a storefront for MB&F;'s wildly inventive horological creations and a showcase of mechanical art from artists around the world (and yes, you can buy those pieces, too). As one of the projects celebrating this anniversary, the folks behind the M.A.D.Gallery has commissioned British designer Martin Smith to create one of the most unique watch winders I've ever seen, in a limited edition of 10 pieces. To say that this is a bit of an unconventional design for a watch winder would be an understatement, and it's something that I can't stop looking at. Designer Martin Smith playing with one of his other kinetic sculptures. The sculptural form of the Solar Orbiter stands at a height of 60cm—that's around two feet tall for us Americans—and spans a width and depth (essentially a diameter of the piece) of 40cm or around 16 inches. In the chaos of the two feet of powder-coated steel, aluminum, brass, wood, and electronics, Smith draws inspiration from the whimsy of pop art, toys, and Eames' iconic Solar Do-Nothing Machine from the fifties to create a spinning, rotating sculpture that is hard to ignore in any room.  But most importantly, there is functionality to it all, as part of the spinning arm of the Solar Orbiter holds a watch to perpetually wind as the machine goes on. There are over 300 handmade parts in this piece, and the design certainly doesn't hide any of them. ...

Video - Inside Schwarz Etienne, Discovering its History and Its Impressive In-House Watchmaking Capacities

Headquartered in a beautiful century-old villa in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the fascinating watch brand Schwarz Etienne is your typical independent watchmaking company. The company’s origins date back to 1902, when founding husband-and-wife Paul-Arthur Schwartz and Olga Etienne got married. From then on, the company would grow continuously, with the descendants of the founding duo also […]