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Results for Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

TAG Heuer Unveils their Latest Edition of the Chronosprint, an Unusual Chronograph Celebrating Porsche Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Unveils their Latest Edition Jan 23, 2025

TAG Heuer Unveils their Latest Edition of the Chronosprint, an Unusual Chronograph Celebrating Porsche

TAG Heuer has re-teamed with Porsche for a follow up to one of their most popular collaborations of the last few years. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye builds on the success of 2023’s TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, evolving the watch with a new dial and a few other changes to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Porsche 911’s early success at the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally. The big selling point of the Chronosprint, which is based on the visual format established by the ‘Glassbox’ Carrera introduced in 2023, is the unique implementation of its chronograph. Where a traditional chronograph’s sweep seconds hand will move around the dial at an even pace, the Chronosprint’s chronograph hand jumps off the starting line, sweeping across a third of the dial in 9(.1) seconds, before slowing down over the next 49.9 seconds to cross the minute mark at, well, a minute, before speeding up again. It’s one of the rare watches I’ve encountered in recent memory that feels like it offers a genuinely unique take on what is otherwise a pretty standard complication. For the most part, this year’s Chronosprint is the same watch Zach introduced 18 months ago, save for a handful of aesthetic changes, inspired by the Porsche 911 “147” used for the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally. Foremost among these is that this year’s Chronosprint drops the silvered dial of the last model in favor of what TAG Heuer is calling a “Black Shimmery” dial. Basically, ...

REVIEW: What We Think Of The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple Jan 22, 2025

REVIEW: What We Think Of The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in stunning purple is the perfect blend of performance and precision! What We Love Sunburst purple dial steals the show Tourbillon cage stands out more on this model compared to other versions. Polished finishing on the case and dial makes this watch look stunning on the wrist What We Don’t Sub-dials could potentially have looked better by matching dial colour and finish. For the price point, the movement could have more finishing A tachymeter scale instead of a minute track would’ve looked fantastic too! Overall Score: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The TAG Heuer Carrera is one of the most iconic collections in the world of luxury watchmaking. As we know, the Carrera was first introduced in 1963 by Jack Heuer and was named after the infamous Carrera Panamericana, a high-octane race that stood for innovation and daring. Over the decades, the TAG Heuer Carrera has evolved; however, it still remains true to its original concept of precision, elegance and a design that brings together a perfect balance of form and function. The TAG Heuer Carrera is undoubtedly one of the most iconic watches in the world, known for its design language of clean lines and chronograph functionality. The watch is a timeless symbol of TAG Heuer’s ability to push the boundaries whilst still keeping the core identity of the watch intact. Presenting the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillo...

My 2025 New Year’s Resolutions And Visiting Australia’s Red Centre With My Tudor Black Bay 58 Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 58 I Jan 20, 2025

My 2025 New Year’s Resolutions And Visiting Australia’s Red Centre With My Tudor Black Bay 58

I bought the Tudor Black Bay 58 in blue as a present to myself for my 30th birthday. It’s a significant watch for me and one that I have worn a great deal. So it felt like a natural choice to take it on a trip to Australia’s Red Centre in the Northern Territory. This […] Visit My 2025 New Year’s Resolutions And Visiting Australia’s Red Centre With My Tudor Black Bay 58 to read the full article.

Hot Take: Tudor Presents A “Flamingo Blue” Version Of Its Black Bay Chrono Fratello
Tudor Presents Jan 17, 2025

Hot Take: Tudor Presents A “Flamingo Blue” Version Of Its Black Bay Chrono

In March last year, Tudor revealed a daring version of its Black Bay Chrono with a pink dial. Leading up to the release, some people already spotted the watch on David Beckham’s and Jay Chou’s wrists. The same happened this week with, again, British football superstar David Beckham and Taiwanese singer-songwriter Jay Chou. Both of […] Visit Hot Take: Tudor Presents A “Flamingo Blue” Version Of Its Black Bay Chrono to read the full article.

Breitling Introduces Navitimer B01 “Translucid” Purple SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Navitimer B01 “Translucid” Jan 17, 2025

Breitling Introduces Navitimer B01 “Translucid” Purple

Breitling’s latest take on its signature aviator’s chronograph is the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Cortina Watch, a limited edition for the Singapore-based retailer. The 50-piece run retains the classic Navitimer design featuring the hallmark slide rule bezel, but with a striking dial in satiné translucid purple, essentially translucent lacquer. The purple dial is matched with red gold appliqués that include the Breitling emblem, contrasting against the dial’s vibrant hue. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest offering is one of many (maybe too many) dial variations within the Navitimer collection, such as the Navitimer Singapore Airlines Editions and the Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary”, but it’s distinctive for the vivid dial colour that is seldom used by Breitling. Admittedly, the colour is hardly traditional for a pilot’s watch, but it is appealing and refreshes the familiar Navitimer look. This edition is based on the 43 mm model, which some might find too big. The 41 mm Navitimer, which is also identical in size to the vintage original, is more wearable. The new Navitimer is priced at S$13,980 (equivalent to about US$10,000), which is comparable to the regular production version. Given the high-spec, in-house chronograph movement, the Navitimer B01 is reasonably priced. Even though the limited editions are arguably too numerous, this edition manages to stand out. Exquisite movement Dial colour aside, the Cortina edition is identical to the standar...

15 Watches with Meteorite Dials, From Under $1,500 to $100,000+ Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Lunar Pilot Meteorite Limited Jan 15, 2025

15 Watches with Meteorite Dials, From Under $1,500 to $100,000+

Watches with meteorite dials are a decidedly small but steadily growing niche within the timepiece industry. As more and more watchmakers, large and small, turn to the literally out-of-this-world material to add intrigue and visual flair to their watches, meteorite’s profile among collectors and enthusiasts has risen — especially now that owning a meteorite-dial watch isn’t necessarily out of reach for all but the most deep-pocketed customers. The appeal of meteorite-dial watches is easy to discern: each dial is literally unique, with a textured surface made up of so-called Widmanstätten patterns formed by millions of years of heat, pressure, and slow cooling of the fallen space rock from which they are derived. Unlike more conventional dial materials, like brass, meteorite connects the watch’s wearer not only to the history, and even prehistory, of the natural world but also to the great beyond of outer space and the mysteries it holds. Here I have assembled a list of 15 meteorite-dial watches in a variety of styles and a wide range of price segments, starting under $1,500 and topping out in six-figure territory.  Bulova Lunar Pilot Meteorite Limited Edition Price: $1,495, Case Size: 43.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Quartz HPQ NP20 Bulova’s Lunar Pilot is a modern homage to the watch worn by astronaut Colonel Dave Scott during the Apollo 15 moon mission for NASA — the only privately owned watch ever to visit ...

Review: The Ressence Type 9 Worn & Wound
Ressence Type 9 Last year Jan 13, 2025

Review: The Ressence Type 9

Last year, when Ressence announced the Type 8, it was met with great excitement and surprise by their fans, including yours truly. A simpler and less expensive Ressence wasn’t something that seemed on the horizon. The watch was a stripped-down take on the seemingly magical Ressence display, reduced to hours and minutes. A lack of numerals, matched with an expansive, heavily domed dial, gave the Type 8 a different mood from Ressence’s other watches. Rather than leaning toward the technical, they felt meditative, which is perhaps to say, they felt less about the engineering and more about the resulting experience. I shared my thoughts in a review you can read here. A year and a half or so later, Ressence has dropped one of the biggest surprises of 2024: a follow-up to the Type 8, which is logically called the Type 9. This wasn’t at a big event like Geneva Watch Days or Watches and Wonders but rather a random week in December, making it even more unexpected. Adding to the shock, it’s another departure from the Ressence norm, featuring their most compact case, and yet continuing the simpler hours and minutes only dial. However, where the Type 8 felt like a radical change, the Type 9 feels more like a spin-off. It’s not a new story but a subplot or side quest. Perhaps, even an alternate take on the Type 8. Case Typically, with Ressence, the dial is the star of the show, but for the Type 9, it’s the case. The dial is special, too, but it feels like a variation on the...

Oris Introduces the ProPilot X “Miss Piggy” Worn & Wound
Oris Introduces Jan 7, 2025

Oris Introduces the ProPilot X “Miss Piggy”

From the moment Oris announced their ProPilot X “Kermit” watch fans have been speculating about which muppet would be next to get the Oris treatment. Not that we didn’t love seeing Kermit on the dial (once a month, on the first of the month) but for many elder-millennials and Gen-X watch collectors, the thought of having an entire collection of Muppet watches was, and remains, pretty tantalizing. Now, just about two years after Kermit made his Oris debut, we get the follow up: the ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition. If you were hoping for Beaker or Animal or another more niche Muppet to appear on an Oris dial, you’ll have to keep waiting. Of course Miss Piggy would have to be the next character – she’s the natural counterpart to Kermit, after all. Has there ever been a more obvious “his and hers” collection than these two ProPilots together? I can’t think of one. The ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition takes the familiar ProPilot X format and shrinks it (and pinks it, sorry) to 34mm. The case is stainless steel and the watch is powered by a rebadged Sellita automatic caliber.  It’s notable that unlike the Kermit watch, we don’t see Miss Piggy on the dial of her ProPilot, not even for a day (there’s no date window for her to make an appearance). Instead, there’s a small window on the caseback through which you can see her periodically on the winding rotor. For a watch devoted to such an iconic character, this is a pretty retrained approach. Instead of Miss P...

Toledano & Chan Introduces the B/1.2, a Follow-Up to One of Last Year’s Breakout Independent Hits Worn & Wound
Rolex King Midas Jan 6, 2025

Toledano & Chan Introduces the B/1.2, a Follow-Up to One of Last Year’s Breakout Independent Hits

If 2024 was defined by the rise of shaped cases and stone dials, it appears that 2025 is starting off with more of the same. Last year, Toledano & Chan had an unexpected hit with their debut watch, the B/1, which was a contemporary riff on the classic Rolex King Midas and similar avant garde designs, with a Brutalist inspired case shape and on-trend lapis lazuil dial. Now, for the brand’s second serialized release (they produced a pair of one-offs for auction last year  with cases crafted from carbon and meteorite) they’ve made a handful of subtle refinements to the original idea, added a mother-of-pearl dial, and introduced a dramatic, faceted crystal. It’s a more complex idea but shows in clear terms how the brand might grow with future releases, showing that they have plenty of tricks left up their sleeve and intend to keep their momentum going.  The new watch, dubbed the B/1.2, prominently features an asymmetrical sapphire crystal that echoes the lines of the angular case. Faceted and asymmetrical crystals are rare in watchmaking. Production of crystals in unusual shapes, particularly when made from sapphire, is challenging and expensive. Perhaps even more importantly, a crystal with facets will distort, to some degree, whatever is viewed through it, which is not ideal for time telling. It’s perhaps especially not ideal for time telling on a watch with a dial that does not include markers or numerals of any kind, like the B/1.2. But that underscores the whole...

Our Thoughts On The Elegant IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 WatchAdvice
IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 Dec 29, 2024

Our Thoughts On The Elegant IWC Portugieser Automatic 42

The IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 is a sophisticated timepiece that blends timeless elegance with modern innovation. With its subtle updates for 2024, we explore just how much this new iteration stands apart from its predecessors. What We Love Slimmer case design New elegant dials offer a lot of versatility and wearability. The watch looks fantastic on the wrist! Date window also seamlessly blends in with the dial. What We Don’t The leather strap’s clasp isn’t my first choice for the design, as it’s hard to open. Movement could do with more finishing. With case thickness reducing, the size could’ve been slimmed down too! Overall Score: 8.5 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 IWC Schaffhausen’s Portugieser line needs no introduction. It’s one of the most important collections not only from the brand but in the world of watchmaking. The story of the Portugieser is one of triumph, where it overcame obscurity to become one of the most iconic timepieces in the horology. View this post on Instagram A post shared by IWC Schaffhausen (@iwcwatches) The IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 42 “Silver Moon” IWC Schaffhausen has stayed true to the original design of the Portugieser, released in 1942, with the timepiece’s clean and simple design with sharp, refined hands and the Arabic hour indices being signature details. If you were to pick up one of the first 1940s models, you’d be easily able to pick the simil...

The Chronoswiss Delphis Firestarter Is A Red-Hot Release Fratello
Chronoswiss Delphis Firestarter Dec 27, 2024

The Chronoswiss Delphis Firestarter Is A Red-Hot Release

It all sounds very impressive, but what does a Titanium Core Nano Shell case mean? According to Chronoswiss, it’s an “unprecedented symbiosis of Grade 5 titanium and high-tech composite, permanently merged at a molecular level.” The red high-tech material makes up this  42.6 × 14.5mm watch case, which Chronoswiss then pairs with an equally fiery dial […] Visit The Chronoswiss Delphis Firestarter Is A Red-Hot Release to read the full article.

My Year in Watches: Community as the Center of Enthusiasm Worn & Wound
Tudor Dec 24, 2024

My Year in Watches: Community as the Center of Enthusiasm

It’s a sneaky secret, but the truth is everyone in the watch world occasionally gets a little tired of watches. Okay, I can’t speak for everyone, and ‘tired’ might be the wrong word, but anyone who has ever worked in an enthusiast field would probably tell you that balancing your own enthusiasm with a professional life can be a tricky thing. Enthusiasm itself is not a boundless resource, and sometimes you can find yourself in need of a cool-down period (something Nathan Schultz described beautifully here). Coming into 2024, I had no idea this year would be one of those cool-down periods (it can be hard to notice one while it’s happening) but looking back at the last twelve months, it’s hard to deny the characterization. It’s not that I love watches any less than I did last year, it’s just that, as I wade deeper into the watch universe, my own collecting has taken a backseat. Going into 2023, I made a conscious decision I wouldn’t buy any watches. Instead, I would save up and make one big purchase at the end of the year. Then I got to March, bought a G-Shock, and opened the floodgates. So when Zach asked me to put a New Year’s Resolution on paper back in January of this year, I went the other way, stating with intention that this would be a buying year and that I would likely end the year with a Tudor, a NOMOS, or both. Instead, I’m ending the 2024 calendar year having bought just three watches, none of which cost more than $110 dollars. I’ve been wh...

Year in Review: Our Best Stories of 2024 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin manufacture Dec 24, 2024

Year in Review: Our Best Stories of 2024

As we look back on the year, we take pride in the stories we’ve shared and extend our sincere appreciation to all our readers for their support. As 2024 draws to a close, we revisit some of our standout features, spanning in-depth explorations of complex movements, historical perspectives on timekeeping, and comprehensive reviews of the latest watch releases. Our founder SJX looked at some of the most significant watches to emerge in 2024, including the record-setting F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Égalité “15/93” prototype, and the fascinating Patek Philippe ref. 767 grand complication with double split-chronographs (which means triple elapsed time measurement) that was acquired by none other than the Patek Philippe Museum. Together with David Ichim, he also co-authored a series of stories explaining notable Rolex innovations, including the brand’s most complicated watch, the Sky-Dweller; the instantaneous Day-Date; and the Deepsea with its unparalleled pressure resistance. Based in Seattle, Brandon Moore nonetheless travelled to Geneva, where he visited the Vacheron Constantin manufacture in Geneva suburb Plan-les-Ouates and the Akrivia workshops in the city’s historic Old Town. Brandon also managed to visit the Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts exhibition at the brand’s Geneva Salon, resulting in his photoessay. And in between all that, he pondered the last two decades of the perpetual calendar’s evolution, a span that has arguably given birth to s...

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Escale Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Dec 19, 2024

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Escale Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel

As this year is coming to a close, it becomes apparent that a leitmotif of 2024 were artisanal dials ranging from hand-engraved, enamelled or even silk-inlaid. Louis Vuitton now takes its turn with the Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel, a simple, three-hand watch endowed with a complex and impressive dial made by hand. Initial thoughts Perhaps reflecting Louis Vuitton’s emphasis on haute horlogerie and independent watchmaking, the new Escale feels more like something from an independent maker, rather than a timepiece made by a luxury giant. This kind of artisan-oriented creation reiterates Louis Vuitton’s focus on horological craft, which is also the motivation behind the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. The deep blue sector-style dial feels organic thanks to the radial guilloché under translucent enamel. Beyond the artisanal nature of the dial, the design is thoughtful, with its proportions giving the face a classical composition. The brushed chapter ring with milled dots for markers evokes the minute tracks found in 19th century Breguet pocket watches. The classical styling is combined with Louis Vuitton’s own design cues like the faux rivets on the case band), which makes for a surprisingly pleasant combination.   A dial crafted by four artisans The complexity of the dial stems from different finishing techniques being combined to produce a seemingly simple design with a mesmerising effect. Each dial is crafted by four artisans,...

The Omega Speedmaster for Military Pilots is Now Available to Civilians SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Dec 15, 2024

The Omega Speedmaster for Military Pilots is Now Available to Civilians

Originally conceived for pilots of the US military (and covered here by Fratello), the Omega Speedmaster Pilot is now available to civilians. The origins of the watch explain the military-influenced, instrument-style dial design, which is meant to evoke the utilitarian nature of an instrument panel inside a fighter jet. The regular production version of the watch retains the same specs as the military exclusive, but with different livery. The case has the straight lugs of the Speedmaster “Ed White” but in a larger format thanks to the automatic cal. 9900 inside. Initial thoughts I’m something of an outlier amongst enthusiasts since I prefer automatic to manual-wind, even within the Speedmaster collection. While a manual-wind movement is traditional for the Speedy, I appreciate the day-to-day convenience of an automatic. Additionally, Omega’s latest-generation automatic chronograph movements are all impressively high-spec. While the Speedmaster Pilot may not achieve the same aesthetic purity as its manual-wind counterparts, it remains an excellent everyday option, especially with the military provenance. That said, the military provenance is not exactly military-issue. The watch was designed for military pilots who presumably buy it on a personal basis for off-duty wear; it is not an actual mil-spec instrument watch. This can be seen in the dial design, which has aviation-inspired elements, rather than actual, functional indicators for pilots. Even though this is m...

Hands On: Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 SJX Watches
Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 Dec 12, 2024

Hands On: Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800

The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is Panerai’s fourth LAB-ID “concept” watch, but probably the most interesting watch in its current catalogue from a technical standpoint. It’s a big, complex watch – inside the 49 mm ceramised titanium case is a movement with six mainsprings. More accurately, it has a conventional movement with twin barrels, plus an illumination module with four of its own mainsprings that generate enough to light up the dial, hands, and bezel for a lengthy 30 minutes. Initial thoughts For the most part I prefer traditionally-styled Panerai watches, either the vintage remakes or the 1990s-type 44 mm models (though I admit the brand’s recent calendar complications are done well). The Submersible Elux hardly resembles a vintage Panerai, but is one of the rare modern creations that is appealing, both in terms of concept and execution, but not so much price-wise. The Submersible Elux is both ridiculous and cool. It’s enormous at 49 mm and also costs just under US$100,000. But it’s arguably the greatest evolution of the historical Panerai speciality of glow-in-the-dark dive watches. And the price is explained in part by the small scale of production in Switzerland. Granted, at this price the PAM01800 isn’t a practical diving instrument, but the technology inside is interesting and notably sophisticated compared to past attempts at light-up watches, all of which suffered from impractically short illumination or power reserve. In time, the te...

Introducing A Tougher Shade Of White: The Urwerk UR-230 Ceramique Fratello
Urwerk UR-230 Ceramique If you Dec 11, 2024

Introducing A Tougher Shade Of White: The Urwerk UR-230 Ceramique

If you compare horology and science, Urwerk must be fundamental science. The house does not ask what people need. Instead, it asks what is possible on the fringes. The Urwerk UR-230 is a prime example. Its dual-turbine system allows the user to regulate the watch’s winding. Does anyone need that? No. But who cares? It […] Visit Introducing A Tougher Shade Of White: The Urwerk UR-230 Ceramique to read the full article.

The Highly Anticipated Omega Speedmaster Pilot Has Landed Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster Pilot Has Landed Dec 10, 2024

The Highly Anticipated Omega Speedmaster Pilot Has Landed

One of the cool things about the Omega Speedmaster is that it can truly be just about any watch it needs to be. It’s the Moonwatch, of course, but it’s also a racing chronograph, a dressy chronograph, a chronograph inspired by WWII era military watches, and it can even be a plastic toy. That, I think, is what makes it “iconic,” an overused word if there ever was one in our trade, but one that nonetheless applies perfectly to the Speedmaster. It’s also, from time to time, a pilot’s watch, and Omega’s newest release, part of a late-in-the-year drip of new product that has the brand positioned as one of the big winners of 2024, is a Speedmaster that is purpose built for the skies in a way we rarely see the Speedy outside of Omega’s quartz offerings.  The new Speedmaster Pilot, as it is known, has been the subject of speculation for much of this year. Leaked images of the watch on the wrist of US military pilots generated a great deal of discussion on the forums and Instagram, and our friends at Fratello provided a great overview of everything that was known about the Speedmaster “Flight Qualified” back in September. That watch (the one seen in the leaked images) appears to be made for military personnel only. The one seen here can be thought of as the civilian version. It differs somewhat in aesthetic details, but in terms of specs and features it appears to be identical, and offers its own unique Speedy experience.  This is a two register Speedmaster wi...

Up Close: Biver Automatique SJX Watches
Dec 6, 2024

Up Close: Biver Automatique

The second watch launched by Biver, the Automatique is a three-hand time-only, functionally simple but elaborately executed. Even the base model has a surprisingly complex dial, but the Automatique is really all about the JCB-003 movement, which is a micro-rotor calibre that ranks up there as one of most impressive recent self-winding movements. Established by Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, Biver got its start with a far more complicated watch, but the Automatique is arguably more impressive because it’s a simple watch executed in a complicated yet cohesive manner. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts Yet another time-only watch with a dressed up movement and hefty price tag – the formula feels a little worn out now. So the Biver Automatique surprises on the upside. I like it. The design is appealing and cohesive, while the movement is impressive. In contrast, when Biver debuted with the Carillon Tourbillon minute repeater, I thought “the quality is unmistakeable, the aesthetics are lacking”. The Automatique lives up to the same levels of quality – and maybe even more – but it is instinctively appealing, even considering the price. The solid gold dial of the entry-level version in rose gold Even though Biver is not an artisanal independent brand in the conventional sense of the word since neither of its founders are watchmakers, the JCB-003 movement is executed to a standard that equals many artisanal independents. The construction is thoughtful and sophisticate...

The IWC Ingenieur 40, Now in Classic Blue SJX Watches
IWC Ingenieur 40 Now Dec 4, 2024

The IWC Ingenieur 40, Now in Classic Blue

IWC’s sports watch with an integrated bracelet, the Ingenieur Automatic 40, now gets a dial in dark blue, arguably the quintessential dial colour for such watches. Modelled on the Ingenieur SL designed by Gérald Genta’s in the 1970s, the modern day Ingenieur was released last year in several dial colours, including black and silver. The new model with a blue dial retains the exact same design, including a bezel secured by five functional screws, an integrated H-link bracelet, and a grid-patterned dial. Initial thoughts As a classic colour for such a watch, the blue dial was long expected. It’s arguably the most appealing Ingenieur, though the titanium model has an edge (at a much, much higher price). While it is hard to find fault in the execution of the Ingenieur, it was released somewhat late, as the fad for integrated bracelets already lost steam last year. This new addition is arriving even later, though the upside is it will be more easily available than before. The blue dial model is priced the same as the earlier versions, making it a little expensive considering the entry-level movement inside. Most sports watches with integrated bracelets in the same price segment rely on more sophisticated calibres. Textured blue The new version has specs identical to its siblings in the collection. The stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter and 10.8 mm thick. Featuring brushed surfaces with polished bevels, the case has the 1970s Ingenieur elements of a circular bezel ...

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC275 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC275 Dec 4, 2024

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC275

Twenty-twenty four marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s 9R Spring Drive movement platform, an occasion the brand has chosen to mark with a range of anniversary editions including the Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary SBGC275. A large, richly detailed watch with a captivating dial, the SBGC275 is robust, interesting, and capable of nearly anything, short of fitting under a short cuff. Initial thoughts At first glance, the SBGC275 looks like just a Spring Drive chronograph with a red dial. But a closer look reveals a highly nuanced colour that changes from red to orange depending on the angle – the result of a proprietary dial coating technique. At 44.5 mm in diameter and nearly 17 mm thick, the SBGC275 is unapologetically big and bold. That said, the watch feels smaller than it is thanks to the use of titanium for the case and bracelet, and the unusually wide 23 mm lug width helps reduce the visual size. This latter dimension may limit the options for aftermarket straps, but since most owners will likely stick with the bracelet, this concern is largely academic. The watch is powered by an upgraded version of the familiar cal. 9R86 Spring Drive chronograph GMT movement, which made its debut in 2007. But eagle-eyed movement geeks will notice the SBGC275 is equipped with the fine-tuned cal. 9R96 first seen in 2017, which was also used in the Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary edition. In many ways, the SBGC275 captures Grand Seiko’s strengths and weaknesses. The b...

Zenith Looks to the Jungle for a Wild New Limited Edition Defy Extreme Worn & Wound
Zenith Looks Dec 3, 2024

Zenith Looks to the Jungle for a Wild New Limited Edition Defy Extreme

One of my favorite pastimes within the world of watch enthusiasm is to tell anyone who will listen that the “Leopard” Rolex Daytona is my favorite version of the storied chronograph. When the Daytona comes up in conversation (and it does, a lot) I’m always ready to share that the intricate gem and diamond set version inspired by leopard prints and favored by Nicolas Cage is my favorite example. This assertion is only half a joke – I really do admire craftsmanship inherent in these watches (which is somewhat uncommon for Rolex) but mostly I like that the watch exists as a transgressive alternative to the norm. And what better way to do that than with a watch inspired by big cats and the jungle? The new Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle, a watch which immediately made me think of my favorite Daytona, knows that there is, in fact, no better way to gently push on the expectations of the typical watch enthusiast.  There’s an important distinction to be made between this new watch from Zenith and the Daytona, and that’s that the Leopard Daytona is, in every way, an outlier in the Daytona collection and for Rolex as a whole. The Zenith Defy Extreme, and the Defy line more generally, are made up almost entirely of outliers. In other words, it’s not actually that strange to see a jungle inspired Defy Extreme when we’ve already seen high concept Defys taking on various themes over the course of many years. This isn’t even the first time Zenith has played with the “jung...