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Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Obsidian is Volcanic Class SJX Watches
Cartier Santos-Dumont Obsidian Jul 14, 2026

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Obsidian is Volcanic Class

Amongst Cartier’s crowd favourites launched this year is a new take on its elegant aviator’s watch, now upgraded with a mesh-link bracelet. The standout is the Santos-Dumont LM Obsidian that matches the yellow gold case and bracelet with a dial that is actually volcanic glass. This sticks to the classic Santos-Dumont template with a slim case containing an even slimmer Piaget movement, but the dial gives this a distinctly different feel from the conventional versions of the model. And unusually given the dial material, this is regular production. Initial thoughts Even though the original 1904 Santos was conceived as a professional’s “tool” watch of sorts, the modern-day Santos-Dumont is undoubtedly a dress watch, but one with a little flair. The form case and screws on the bezel set it apart from the average dress watch that is usually plain. This takes the design to another level with the bracelet and obsidian dial. The bracelet is a little showy since it is entirely yellow gold, but the links are fine enough that it still feels elegant. Similarly, the dial is high contrast but arguably passes as a dress watch. The case is compact and slim, so this still passes as a dress watch, one that is both ostentatious and elegant. If anything, I would have wished it was one size larger. This, along with the other variants of the Santos-Dumont on a bracelet, is in the “LM”, or “large model”, format. At under 32 mm in diameter, the case size is reminiscent of a vint...

Hands-On: the Split GMT Worn & Wound
Citizen s movement factory earlier Jul 13, 2026

Hands-On: the Split GMT

The longer I navigate my watch journey, the more I realize it’s a bit like dating. You get a press kit and metaphorically swipe left or right in a very judging-the-book-by-its-cover type of way. The aesthetics are often the first thing to draw you in and make you curious or to turn you away. In either case, as a good journalist, I’m usually compelled to read the press release and gather a bit more information, skim the profile if you will. I can fully admit aesthetics are highly subjective, but substance is vital. Still, I can’t fully assess a watch without going hands-on. Images can either disappoint or not quite do justice to a design, and the promises spelled out in specs need to be put to the test. Seeing a watch is the real make or break moment to determine if we’re a perfect match. I recently went through this dating ritual with Split watches, a London-based independent brand making its U.S. debut with a new GMT. A few things really stood out to me when I first received the announcement. The look of the watches was interesting, combining unique design elements, shapes, and colors. Reading about the vision behind the design was poetic, drawing from elements of music and nature – two of my favorite sources of inspiration. The watches are powered by the Miyota 9075 true GMT movement – calibers I’ve developed even more appreciation for after visiting Citizen’s movement factory earlier this year.  Beyond the watches themselves, I was equally impressed wit...

Auctions: Buzz Aldrin's Watches Are Coming To Auction Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Shark Deep Sea Chronograph Jul 13, 2026

Auctions: Buzz Aldrin's Watches Are Coming To Auction

This story has been republished from our friends at Hodinkee Australia.   Amongst the lots in Sotheby's New York's latest Space Exploration auction, I found some interesting things. In fact, I found 24 of them. Watches - all owned by none other than retired Brigadier General of the U.S. Air Force, and second man on the moon, Buzz Aldrin. The astronaut, born Edwin Eugene Aldrin Jr., has listed a large portion of his watch collection, primarily Omegas, but there's a smattering of watches from other brands amongst the spacefaring lots. It's no surprise that Buzz's Apollo 11-flown Omega Speedmaster Professional isn't present; that watch is still lost, stolen on the way to the Smithsonian after its sojourn to the moon in 1969 (and it still technically belongs to the U.S. government). Buzz Aldrin in the Apollo 11 Lunar Module, wearing that aforementioned lost Omega Speedmaster ref. ST105.012. Image courtesy of NASA There’s a range of Omegas that are meaningful to Aldrin that he’s acquired through decades of collecting, including dive watches he relied on as an experienced scuba diver and a big box of souvenir watches. There’s no denying the man is a collector and a true watch enthusiast. Bidding is open online right now before live bidding sessions begin on July 15th in New York - here are some of the highlights. Jaeger-LeCoultre Shark Deep Sea Chronograph Image courtesy of Sotheby's This is the most interesting watch in the sale that isn’t an Omega: Aldrin’s JLC Shar...

Hands-on - The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Date, a Truly Purposeful Three-Hour Dive Watch Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Date Jul 13, 2026

Hands-on - The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Date, a Truly Purposeful Three-Hour Dive Watch

Dive watches are, by nature, rather conservative instruments. Since the 1950s, the basics have barely changed: a robust water-resistant case, luminous hands and markers, and a rotating bezel, often undirectional, graduated over 60 minutes. Blancpain played a big part in setting up these design codes with the Fifty Fathoms during the 1950s. Seventy years later, […]

Introducing: The Krayon Parhelion, A Maximalist Take On The Brand’s Anywhere Watch Hodinkee
Krayon Jul 13, 2026

Introducing: The Krayon Parhelion, A Maximalist Take On The Brand’s Anywhere Watch

What We Know Pretty much anything that independent watch brand Krayon produces feels like it rests solidly in the if-you-know-you-know realm of exquisitely engineered high-end complications. The brand's focused catalog contains variations on three main complications—the universal sunrise and sunset calculator that is the Everywhere, the watchmaker-adjustable sunrise and sunset-indicating caliber that is the Anywhere, and the most recently introduced weekday and weekend pointer date display in the Anyday. Sure, Krayon's recent Pac-Man collaboration in a limited run of Anywhere watches might feel like an odd one out, but most of the examples I've seen on the wrists of collectors have all flown well under the radar with tastefully measured executions. But if you've ever wondered what a Krayon would look like with a touch—scratch that, a lot—of bling, well, the new Parhelion might just do the trick. It's hard to mistake this new watch for anything else in the catalog thanks to the sheer number of baguette-cut sapphires set across the entire watch—159 of them, to be exact. To house this number of gemstones, the case is 42mm in diameter, made from an alloy of white gold with a high percentage of palladium for a very white hue to match the brightness of the stones. Thickness, given the complication, is impressive at 9.5mm. When I first saw a prototype of the Parhelion a few months ago, only the bezel was inlaid with sapphires, in a stunning gradient from white to blue. Bu...

Maurice de Mauriac Releases their Latest Tennis Themed Limited Edition Rallymaster Worn & Wound
Maurice de Mauriac Jul 13, 2026

Maurice de Mauriac Releases their Latest Tennis Themed Limited Edition Rallymaster

Maurice de Mauriac has released their latest in the ongoing Rallymaster series today. The Rallymaster has become a hit in recent years among the growing crowd of overlapping tennis and watch enthusiasts, with a string of limited editions tied to the Grand Slam tennis championships. These watches, designed by Carlton DeWoody, have a real charm to them, and honestly work better than they should given some of the more literal tennis influenced design elements. The watches have always worked though because of their whimsy and a clarity of vision that doesn’t take itself too seriously. DeWoody also has a real knack for color, and has always been able to figure out the right way to reference specific aspects of the sport without it all going completely over the top. In other words, they are just fun, nice looking watches.  The latest in the series, the Rallymaster Swiss Tennis, is perhaps a little more inside baseball for tennis fans (sorry to mix sports metaphors there). Revealed at the Swiss Open in Gstaad, the colorway is dominated by tones found in the Swiss flag, and the watch leans into Swiss tennis heritage and the country’s appreciation for the sport. Maurice de Mauriac is the official timekeeper of Swiss Tennis, the sport’s governing body in Switzerland.  The new Rallymaster features the same tennis net inspired graphic running across the center of the dial that we’ve seen in previous editions, here situated against a brushed silver dial surface. The dial is a...

Fratello Summer Tip: Keep Track Of Your Kids With Cybex Collection Watches Fratello
Jul 13, 2026

Fratello Summer Tip: Keep Track Of Your Kids With Cybex Collection Watches

You want to relax this summer. You want to go to a nice place and chill, re-energize, and enjoy life without a worry in the world. And what is your biggest worry? No, it’s not picking the right summer watch. As always, it’s the kids. Napping on the beach, for example? With one eye on […] Visit Fratello Summer Tip: Keep Track Of Your Kids With Cybex Collection Watches to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Speake Marin Ripples Portobello, Inspired by London’s Colourful District Monochrome
Speake-Marin Jul 13, 2026

Introducing - The New Speake Marin Ripples Portobello, Inspired by London’s Colourful District

Speake Marin introduced the Ripples in 2022, and with it, the independent brand entered the crowded luxury sports watch category with its own, slightly eccentric creation. The rounded-square La City case, the strongly textured dial, and the small seconds at 1:30 made it instantly recognisable. Infinity Date, Dune Date, Ripples Skeleton and even a full […]

Buying Guide - Five of the Finest New Independent Watchmakers We’ve Recently Come Across Monochrome
Jul 12, 2026

Buying Guide - Five of the Finest New Independent Watchmakers We’ve Recently Come Across

If you’re anything like us, independent watchmaking will be on your watch radar pretty much all the time. We’ve never hidden the fact that we absolutely love the creative, experimental nature of small, indie watchmakers. Some have grown into industry leaders, while others have deliberately stayed small and produce watches in double- or even single-digit […]

The Hermès Cape Cod Gets A Masculine Makeover In Titanium For The First Time Fratello
Hermes Jul 12, 2026

The Hermès Cape Cod Gets A Masculine Makeover In Titanium For The First Time

A few weeks ago, I mentioned that the Hermès H08 is one of the best summer watches available under €10k. Had I waited a week, this new titanium Cape Cod might have challenged for that spot. The Cape Cod has been part of the Hermès lineup since 1991 and celebrates its 35th anniversary this year. […] Visit The Hermès Cape Cod Gets A Masculine Makeover In Titanium For The First Time to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Presage Cocktail Time (38.5mm) Vs. Baltic HMS 002 Fratello
Baltic HMS 002 Good morning Jul 12, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Presage Cocktail Time (38.5mm) Vs. Baltic HMS 002

Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, Seiko released three new models in its Presage Cocktail Time collection. With a 38.5mm diameter, they are smaller, feature a less in-your-face date window at 4:30, and come in three color options. All in all, it’s a nice new offering from Seiko at the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Presage Cocktail Time (38.5mm) Vs. Baltic HMS 002 to read the full article.

The ABCs of Time - Everything about Watch Lugs, from Early Wire Lugs to the Most Expressive Designs Monochrome
Jul 11, 2026

The ABCs of Time - Everything about Watch Lugs, from Early Wire Lugs to the Most Expressive Designs

Wristwatches were a 20th century cultural trend that rendered the centuries-old pocket watch obsolete. From a functional standpoint, both watch types are the same, but changes were still needed for daily practicality on the wrist. For starters, watch cases had to shrink – pocket watches averaged 50mm in diameter with a broader range of 43mm […]

From Lab Coat To Swim Shorts: The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 “Pool” Fratello
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 “Pool” Jul 11, 2026

From Lab Coat To Swim Shorts: The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 “Pool”

IWC Schaffhausen has expanded its compact integrated-bracelet lineup with a striking new release — the Ingenieur Automatic 35 featuring a vibrant “Pool” dial (ref. IW324902). This fresh “aquatic” execution takes the mid-sized 35mm stainless steel platform (originally introduced to the modern collection as an ergonomic, vintage-inspired alternative to its 40mm sibling) and dresses it up […] Visit From Lab Coat To Swim Shorts: The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 “Pool” to read the full article.

I’d Give It All Up For You: The Yellow Gold Rolex Daytona 126518LN With A Turquoise Dial Fratello
Rolex Daytona 126518LN Jul 11, 2026

I’d Give It All Up For You: The Yellow Gold Rolex Daytona 126518LN With A Turquoise Dial

Something got me started. In fact, it was Brazilian football legend Ronaldo Nazário, who was attending the FIFA World Cup. He was wearing the yellow gold Rolex Daytona 126518LN with a turquoise dial, which debuted last year at Watches and Wonders. My first thought was, “Why are you wearing ‘my’ watch?” It was a rather […] Visit I’d Give It All Up For You: The Yellow Gold Rolex Daytona 126518LN With A Turquoise Dial to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Beaucroft Arc Worn & Wound
Beaucroft Arc There’s genuine horological Jul 10, 2026

Hands-On: the Beaucroft Arc

There’s genuine horological history in the home of Beaucroft Watches, the independent brand founded in 2020 in Cambridge. England was once the heart of the world’s finest watchmaking, a legacy that dated back to the 16th century. Some of the most important innovations originated in these early epochs, up until Switzerland took the mantle in the mid-1800s: complex clocks meant for royalty, and instruments for gauging the stars and the sea alike. Thomas Tompion, the “Father of English Clockmaking,” pioneered the hairspring as a viable means of regulating time, clockmaker Thomas Mudge invented the lever escapement in 1755, and John Harrison’s marine chronometer solved the problem of determining longitude once and for all.  Zoom forward about five centuries. Some of the most exciting, historically-minded efforts in independent watches are emerging from British watchmakers, many of whom are attempting to evoke this proud tradition. For Beaucroft, whose latest watch is the Arc, there’s no lack of influence to draw from among Cambridge’s stone archways, pointed Gothic windows, and the ancient towers that loom over King’s and Trinity Colleges.  The Arc is an evolution of Beaucroft’s last release, 2023’s Seeker, which laid the groundwork for the watchmaker’s design language. Namely, pill-shaped baton markers with unique markers at 3, 6, 9, and 12 that feature round pips at the end, resembling automotive gauges. Diamond-cut hour and minute hands are shaped li...

In-Depth - The Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon, a Pocket Watch Masterpiece Reborn for the Wrist Monochrome
Voutilainen Jul 10, 2026

In-Depth - The Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon, a Pocket Watch Masterpiece Reborn for the Wrist

When Urban Jürgensen returned in 2025 under the co-direction of Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield, three watches formed the inaugural collection. The UJ-2 introduced a time-only calibre with a double-wheel natural escapement; the UJ-3, an integrated perpetual calendar; while the UJ-1 Tourbillon 250th Anniversary Watch was meant to be the technical masterpiece for the return […]

Introducing - Hublot’s Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue Brings a Fresh Shade to the Meca-10 Monochrome
Hublot s Big Bang Sapphire Jul 10, 2026

Introducing - Hublot’s Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue Brings a Fresh Shade to the Meca-10

Very few brands can create and machine sapphire like Hublot does, and it is a claim that proves itself time and again. It was in 2016 that Hublot first unveiled its sapphire Big Bang, followed by colourful interpretations, including the striking orange version introduced in 2021, which turned many heads. These transparent creations have since […]

Gerald Charles enlists No. 1 Padel player, Tutima sets its eyes on US market, Windup returns to Chicago Time+Tide
Gerald Charles Jul 10, 2026

Gerald Charles enlists No. 1 Padel player, Tutima sets its eyes on US market, Windup returns to Chicago

As summer in the northern hemisphere arrives, we approach the season of the year when Swiss watchmakers take their Vacances horlogères – a tradition since 1937 where workshops shut down in late July and early August for a three-week break. Of course, when Geneva Watch Days comes around, the industry is ramped back up into … Continued