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Results for François-Paul Journe

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François-Paul Journe

Founder of F.P. Journe; the modern Breguet. Invenit et Fecit.

Hands On With The New TAG Heuer Aquaracer Titanium Solargraph WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Titanium Solargraph They Mar 22, 2025

Hands On With The New TAG Heuer Aquaracer Titanium Solargraph

They say that blue is the warmest colour, but is the dial colour change enough to reignite interest in TAG Heuer’s Solar quartz collection? Let’s find out! What We Love: Oh-so-light titanium: Like wearing nothing at all! Practical and no-nonsense, in design and in practice Wearing dimensions perfect for almost any wrist What We Don’t: Pale blue on titanium is an acquired taste The weightlessness of titanium will throw off steel watch lovers Do we still need that coloured second-hand? Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Luxury conglomerate LVMH has been on quite the tear as of late, exemplified by the massive leaps and bounds made by Swiss watch brand TAG Heuer. The La Chaux-de-Fonds company has gone through their fair share of privileges and inconveniences throughout the years, but ever since Frédéric Arnault briefly took the helm in the 2020s, they have since gone back to their winning ways. Even now, with Frédéric’s departure and subsequent promotion, TAG Heuer has spent the last few years in the limelight they had been so desperately chasing for so long. From the Carrera Glassbox to the Monaco Split-Seconds; From the KITH x Formula One to becoming (for the second time!) the official timing partner of Formula One itself; The green and red of the TAG Heuer logo has become omnipresent throughout the watch industry. However, the brand is obviously not content with simply chasing waterfalls. In between t...

Hands-On: the Colorado Watch Company Field Watch and GCT Worn & Wound
Rado Watch Company Field Watch Mar 21, 2025

Hands-On: the Colorado Watch Company Field Watch and GCT

Iron and steam forged the Rocky Mountain west in the mid-nineteenth century. While the eastern half of the United States remained the capital of cultural influence and academic knowledge, pioneers throughout the west began to challenge notions of what progress looked like, and who deserved to play a role in the shaping of politics, finance, and ethics in this new chapter. Coloradans, especially, were a determined breed – weak wills don’t survive at altitudes like ours. We blasted through mountains with dynamite, scaled 14,000 foot peaks and braved record blizzards for a chance to make our fortune in gold and our name in silver. While still only a territory in the 1860s, Coloradans fought and defended the area’s mineral rights against the Confederacy, ensuring an accessible supply line remained open between California and the Union forces in the east.  Even today, railroad tracks blanket the state like a series of iron roots - vital components of an ecosystem well over a century old. These historical vestiges serve to bridge the gap between the state’s past and present. When Colorado was still in its relative infancy and taking shape, watchmaking in the U.S. started to rise. Cities in the northeast, sometimes older than the Centennial State by upwards of two centuries, had the resources and experience to become centers of horological production. By the time Colorado had caught up economically and began to orient towards other models of manufacturing, it was too l...

Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Aston Martin F1 Edition In Green And Lime Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Aston Martin Mar 21, 2025

Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Aston Martin F1 Edition In Green And Lime

After the first Formula 1 Grand Prix in Australia, Richard Mille and IWC scored 27 points, putting them in first and second place. “GP” is in fifth position with eight points scored by Lawrence Stroll and Fernando Alonso. But with 23 races to come, there’s still everything to play for. Formula 1 and watch brands […] Visit Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Aston Martin F1 Edition In Green And Lime to read the full article.

Only For Japan – The Biver Automatique with Grand Feu Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Mar 7, 2025

Only For Japan – The Biver Automatique with Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre continue their journey of independent horology with the Biver Automatique Japan Edition. Made in collaboration with its retailer in Japan, this special release is based on the time-only automatic debuted last year, but reimagined to cater to the traditionally classical taste of the Japanese collector. The minimalist edition debuts in two elegant variants that explore the contrast of light and shadow through hard-fired enamel made by an enamel workshop in Geneva’s Old Town. A stark white enamel dial is paired with a platinum case, while the high-contrast version matches a glossy black dial with a rose gold case – both share a clean, old-school aesthetic with applied markers and a railway minute track. A tribute to the Japanese collector The Automatique epitomises Biver’s neoclassical and elaborate approach to watchmaking, which blends careful detailing with hand-finishing techniques, for both habillage and the movement. Now the Japan Edition further refines the approach, condensing the more elaborate execution of the original versions into something more traditional, more classical, and arguably more reflective of the taste of Japanese enthusiasts. The two distinct models pay homage to the Japanese appreciation of minimalist aesthetics combined with high quality and precision execution, along with a well-established love of mid-century precision Swiss wristwatches. The clarity of the vintage-inspired design makes the Japan Edition ...

Hands-On: The MK II Fulcrum 39 Worn & Wound
Mar 5, 2025

Hands-On: The MK II Fulcrum 39

One of my favorite games to play when visiting family is something I like to call “Guess, That, Price!” Here’s how it works: I excitedly dump out my rolls and pouches to reveal to the group what watches I have in for review at that time. They then pour over the details, proudly identifying the features of each watch, and then guess the retail price of each piece to see who comes the closest. On my most recent episode of “Guess, That, Price!” I had with me a trio of watches, one of which being the new MK II Fulcrum 39. As it made its rounds, they began calling out features such as the bezel action, the weight of the watch, and the overall rugged visual appearance. When prompted, the three contestants gave me their estimated MSRP of $22,000, $26,000, and finally $31,000. Yes, they are pretty bad at this game. However, what they lack in accuracy is made up for in providing an interesting data point for me. This watch has the potential to carry a higher perceived value than its actual asking price which is not something that typically happens. It pushed me to explore the watch further.  From the outset, I’ll admit I was a little disappointed with the new Fulcrum. A massive fan of MK II and Tornek-Rayville, I had inflated expectations that this piece would blow me away. To put it bluntly, this is my least favorite watch they have produced to date. I hate that I am writing that, and I hate that I am admitting that, but at the end of the day sometimes things fall sho...

Hands-on – A Quick Encounter with the Salmon Art-Deco Cartier Tank Américaine in Platinum Monochrome
Cartier Tank Américaine Mar 4, 2025

Hands-on – A Quick Encounter with the Salmon Art-Deco Cartier Tank Américaine in Platinum

The name Tank at Cartier means far more than just a watch… It’s an entire range of watches, all distinguished by some design elements first defined by the so-called Tank Normale of 1917. From there, the collection expanded to dozens of designs, such as the Tank Louis Cartier, the Cintrée, the Française and the Asymétrique, […]

First Look: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon 38 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Mar 3, 2025

First Look: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon 38 mm

One of the less prominent, but arguably interesting, debuts for Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary is the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 38 mm in sand gold. A compact watch in muted, pale tones but discreetly glammed up with diamonds, the new tourbillon is the first instance of the ultra-thin cal. 2968 (also known as RD#3) appears something other than a Royal Oak. Initial thoughts The 38 mm tourbillon is the sort of watch that’s more interesting than it initially looks. Though it appears to be a ladies’ watch at first glance, largely due to the somewhat unattractive beige stitch-less strap, it is arguably a unisex watch in both size and style. I would have preferred limiting the diamonds to the case middle for a low-key, formal appearance, but even as it is the gem setting is quite modest. But the new tourbillon isn’t just an aesthetic exercise. The cal. 2968 inside is a nifty movement with some clever details that keep it exceedingly thin. The 38 mm case also demonstrates the Code 11.59 works well in a smaller format. This is especially useful since many iterations of the Code 11.59 feel a bit too large (though in some instances the thickness is a technical requirement). Image – Audemars Piguet RD#3 Entirely in the brand’s proprietary sand gold alloy – best described as a pleasantly washed-out red gold – the case measures 38 mm in diameter and 9.6 mm in thickness. It’s set with 235 brilliant-cut diamonds on the lugs, crown, ...

Introducing – Compact and Colourful Versions of the Rado Diastar Monochrome
Rado Diastar Born Jan 30, 2025

Introducing – Compact and Colourful Versions of the Rado Diastar

Born in 1962, the Rado Diastar marked the brand’s incursion into the exciting territory of innovative materials. Combining carbide tungsten, hard metal and faceted sapphire crystal with a retro-futuristic case, the Diastar was the first step in Rado’s journey into the world of high-tech ceramics and other exciting materials. Celebrating its 60th birthday in 2022, […]

Bell & Ross Introduces their Latest Patrouille de France Collaboration Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces their Latest Patrouille Jan 20, 2025

Bell & Ross Introduces their Latest Patrouille de France Collaboration

I don’t know what it is exactly, but there’s something thrilling about air shows. In fact, every summer in my hometown, people will pull their deck chairs onto the road to catch a glimpse of the U.S. Air Force demonstrating an F-35A. And even I, as jaded as I am, do get a slight buzz when they zoom across the sky, doing loop-de-loops while I commute home. And that’s just in rural Pennsylvania – imagine if I was commuting to my maison in France while the Patrouille de France whizzed by with their signature red, white, and blue smoke trailing behind. Quel spectacle! While I have no plans to move to France anytime soon, I can say that Bell & Ross’ latest addition to their continued collaboration with the aerobatics demonstration unit of the French Air and Space Force, the BR-05 Chrono Patrouille de France, does add a little je ne sais quoi to one’s wrist, n’est-ce pas? (Okay, last time I speak French here, I promise). As with previous iterations of this collaboration, Bell & Ross seamlessly incorporates aeronautical motifs within the framework of the brand’s design ethos. Keeping with their “circle within a square” design, the BR-05 Chrono has presence on the wrist, clocking in at 42mm. But it’s the little elements that show the true partnership with the Patrouille de France. Details like the light blue sunburst dial, echoing the pilots’ flight suits, and the dark blue rehaut and subdials, referencing the aircraft’s fuselage, make the design stand ou...

Retrospective: Tomas Breaks Prejudices With A Barrel-Shaped Gallet Powered By A Fine Excelsior Park Movement Fratello
Jan 16, 2025

Retrospective: Tomas Breaks Prejudices With A Barrel-Shaped Gallet Powered By A Fine Excelsior Park Movement

Every journey has an end and inspires us to set out on a new adventure. Today, we celebrate #TBT, one of the longest-running columns in Fratello’s history. We are happy to announce that after 10 long years, our Thursday contemplation on vintage watches has gotten a refresh. Let’s kick off a new Retrospective series with […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Breaks Prejudices With A Barrel-Shaped Gallet Powered By A Fine Excelsior Park Movement to read the full article.

Building A Watch Brand Episode 15: Looking Back On The First Two Years Of VPC Fratello
VPC Time flies when you’re Jan 15, 2025

Building A Watch Brand Episode 15: Looking Back On The First Two Years Of VPC

Time flies when you’re having fun! It has been a full two years since I set off on an adventure to build my dream watch, the VPC Type 37HW. Fratello offered me the fantastic opportunity to chronicle and share the journey with you all. Today, after having fulfilled all preorders, I would like to finish […] Visit Building A Watch Brand Episode 15: Looking Back On The First Two Years Of VPC to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin 222 following Jan 7, 2025

Hands-On: the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm

It is not common practice for us to spend time crafting a hands-on review for watches that sit outside of our personal periphery. There needs to be a thread to pull, some emotion to lean on, and an opinion worth sharing. So, in full disclosure, when arranging a loan for the Gerard-Perregeaux Leureato Chronograph 42mm I did so based on the fact that it had been a while since I had spent any considerable time with a GP and didn’t have any solid thoughts on writing about it. The model is a bit overlooked in the market, has a higher and extremely competitive price point, and has been overshadowed a bit by the titanium version released earlier in 2024. But sitting there with the Laureato Chronograph dial dancing in the light shooting bursts of blue at me, I really began studying the piece. To understand the Laureato though, you must understand the history and a bit of the controversy surrounding it.  An oft-forgotten integrated bracelet watch originating from the “golden” Genta age of design, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato can trace its roots back to 1975. While not a Genta design, some believe the Laureato bears a striking resemblance or is a love child of the iconic AP references that gained him eventual fame. For full context, we had the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1972, the Baume et Mercier Riviera in 1973, the original Laureato in 1975, the IWC Ingenieur and Patek Philippe Nautilus in 1976, and then the Vacheron Constantin 222 following in 1977. Of course, there are...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR Vs. 116710LN Fratello
Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR Vs Jan 5, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR Vs. 116710LN

Welcome to the first Sunday Morning Showdown of 2025! We hope you have enjoyed the holidays and are ready for our first battle of the new year. So make yourself a nice warm cup of coffee, and let’s get rolling! Today, we’ll play a game called Find the Differences. OK, although that is a joke, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR Vs. 116710LN to read the full article.

Fratello Readers’ Choice For The Best Watch Of 2024: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Dial Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Jan 2, 2025

Fratello Readers’ Choice For The Best Watch Of 2024: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Dial

Last week, in the year’s final episode of Fratello Talks, RJ, Lex, and Nacho presented their favorite watches of 2024 to you under six predetermined categories. In the episode’s accompanying article, there was a poll through which you, dear Fratelli, could vote for your favorite watch among the 18 nominees. After a week of voting, […] Visit Fratello Readers’ Choice For The Best Watch Of 2024: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Dial to read the full article.

Hublot’s Latest Big Bang is Made From Novak Djokovic’s Racquets SJX Watches
Hublot s Latest Big Bang Dec 16, 2024

Hublot’s Latest Big Bang is Made From Novak Djokovic’s Racquets

Hublot’s latest release is a limited edition created in collaboration with Novak Djokovic, the tennis champion who has 24 Grand Slam titles. The Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is encased in a carbon composite that recycles the player’s tennis racquets and Lacoste polo t-shirts. And its movement has been reworked to utilise aluminium bridges and plates, ensuring the entire watch weighs less than a tennis ball. Initial thoughts Often criticised for its pricey, Sellita-equipped entry-level models and numerous limited editions, Hublot is sometimes controversial. The brand’s higher-end watches, however, are usually more interesting (and occasionally very complex) and sometimes better value. Priced at US$52,700, the Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is expensive enough that it’s not a value proposition. It is, however, interesting for the case material. Moreover it holds a special appeal for fans of Novak Djokovic. And intrinsically, it is technically competent as it’s equipped with a modified Unico movement that is mostly aluminium and ultra light. Tennis racquets Sized like the standard Big Bang Unico, this measures 42 mm by 14.5 mm. The case material, however, is unique. The case and bezel are in a composite derived from 25 Head tennis racquets, 17 dark blue and 15 light blue Lacoste polo t-shirts used by Djokovic throughout the 2023 season. These ground-up racquets and shirts are mixed with an epoxy resin reinforced with quartz powder and glass, resulting in a distinc...

Hands-On With The Colorfully Elegant Grand Seiko SBGH349 “Icefall” In Titanium Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGH349 “Icefall” Dec 10, 2024

Hands-On With The Colorfully Elegant Grand Seiko SBGH349 “Icefall” In Titanium

Whenever I read the word “icefall,” my mind wanders to climbing Mount Everest. To reach the top of the world on the Nepal side of the mountain, you must pass the Khumbu Icefall early on to reach Camp 1. It’s a notoriously dangerous start to your journey to the summit. This is part of the […] Visit Hands-On With The Colorfully Elegant Grand Seiko SBGH349 “Icefall” In Titanium to read the full article.

Ending The Year On A Bold Note With The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon SR_A And The Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle Fratello
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Dec 9, 2024

Ending The Year On A Bold Note With The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon SR_A And The Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle

Imagine yourself sitting or standing in a concert hall. The band or orchestra performs what clearly is the last song of the night. After the final note, though, the crowd goes wild and keeps clapping, hoping the concert won’t end just yet. Finally, the performers decide to play one more song - the encore. Sometimes, […] Visit Ending The Year On A Bold Note With The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon SR_A And The Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle to read the full article.

In-Depth – The David Candaux DC1 Titanium is Why We Love Independent Horology Monochrome
Dec 5, 2024

In-Depth – The David Candaux DC1 Titanium is Why We Love Independent Horology

David Candaux, an independent watchmaker and member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) since 2019, is regarded as one of the most talented creators in contemporary horology. To understand and appreciate his work, it is important to remember his professional journey and the philosophy that infuses his timepieces with unique character, and the […]

Book Review: ‘Time on My Hands’, a Watch Collector’s Memoir by Mitch Katz SJX Watches
MB&F; Dec 3, 2024

Book Review: ‘Time on My Hands’, a Watch Collector’s Memoir by Mitch Katz

Time on My Hands: A Collector’s Journey in a World of Watches. By Mitch Katz. Tasfil Publishing. US$24.99 in paperback, US$10.89 for e-book Thanks to the growing popularity of watch collecting, there is no shortage of books one can find about watches. Even mainstream bookstores often have a few in stock, while specialty bookstores across the world, from Powell’s in Portland, Oregon to Tsutaya in Daikanyama, Tokyo, have entire sections devoted to watch books. But the watch publishing industry is dominated by brand books, like MB&F;: The First Fifteen Years, that celebrate a particular brand or model. Perhaps because watch collecting is still a nascent hobby, there have not been many (if any) memoirs written about watch collecting. And while Time on My Hands by Mitch Katz is highly educational at times, it succeeds most as a personal story about one man’s long journey down the rabbit hole of watch collecting. Initial thoughts As hard as it is to find a book written by a fellow collector, it’s rarer still to find one that recounts events that formed the basis of one’s own watch education. I first became aware of Mr Katz in 2008 when I joined the Purists forum, which is also where I became acquainted with SJX. When I was at university, the forum served as my nightly reading, and the wisdom I gained reading Mr Katz’s posts, and those of fellow Purists, helped me get up to speed on the many nuances of the watch industry. In Time on My Hands, Mr Katz shares the ups and...

Realistically Aspirational: Four New Watches in the “Micro-Indie” Space Worn & Wound
Nov 29, 2024

Realistically Aspirational: Four New Watches in the “Micro-Indie” Space

There’s a bit of dialogue toward the end of Willy Wonka and The Chocolate Factory from 1971 that goes: Wonka: but Charlie… Don’t forget what happened to the man who suddenly got everything he wanted. Charlie: What happened? Wonka: He lived happily ever after. An inversion of the typical “be careful what you wish for” sentiment that puts a rosy tint on the morbid but wonderful film, I can’t help but hear it play in my head when I look at the current state of independent watches. Once, there was a dearth of brands and originality, and now, there is almost too much. Well, not almost; there is. We went from a time when unique options were few and far between, making any that popped up all the more rare and exciting, to now, when they are almost common. I’M PRETTY SURE WE’RE CHARLIE IN THIS STORY What an absurd state of affairs! Am I actually complaining about there being too much originality? Well, no, but yes (mainly for this article and humor). You see, I used to be easily seduced by these new and unique pieces, but now, I have decision paralysis. Oh, the horror! In reality, this is remarkable. We’ve wondered for years what brands would do when the vintage craze ran its course and a need for originality returned. Rather than purely wild watches that depart from tradition entirely (though there are many), we’ve seen smaller brands invest in research, development, and craft to create watches that, at least, I would not have thought possible a handful of yea...

Universal Genève Returns with Polerouter SAS Tribute Trio SJX Watches
Breitling s private-equity owners last Nov 22, 2024

Universal Genève Returns with Polerouter SAS Tribute Trio

Having been acquired by Breitling’s private-equity owners last year, Universal Genève is scheduled to officially come back to life in 2026. But ahead of its revival in two years, the brand has unveiled a trio of one-off vintage remakes, the Polerouter SAS Tribute. Commemorating the 70th anniversary of the inaugural Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) flight across the North Pole from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, the three watches are modelled on the Polerouter, a watch created especially for the pilots of SAS. Notably, the Polerouter was designed by the late Gérald Genta when he was just 23 years old. The SAS Tribute is made up of three unique watches, one each in stainless steel, 18k white gold, and 18k red gold, with the white gold example slated to be sold at Phillips in May 2025 with proceeds going to a Geneva arts school. The remaining pair will be retained by Universal Genève as part of its archive and will not be offered for sale. Initial thoughts The Polerouter trio are essentially faithful remakes, right down to the new-old-stock cal. 1-69  micro-rotor movement inside, but with dials in modern colours and finishes. While drawing inspiration from the vintage design, they look modern. The trio isn’t particularly imaginative, though it will appeal to fans of the brand’s vintage watches. Such remakes aren’t enough to revive a Universal Genève, though the brand’s attention to its historical models will be appreciated by enthusiasts. Whether or not Universal...