4,164 articles · 34 videos found · page 38 of 140
Quill & Pad
Do you need to know the time in various time zones? What is the real difference between a worldtimer and a GMT watch? How complicated are these watches to use? Chris Malburg answers these questions and more after spending some quality time with two enchanting multi-time zone watches.
Hodinkee
A horological commemoration of a French flying boat's first transatlantic passage.
Hodinkee
There are few things better in the realm of watch ownership than using your watch for its stated purpose – diving with a diver, flying with a pilot watch, traveling with a Worldtimer. Even better still, getting to do so while taking your watch back to the place where it was created, experiencing the country and culture that brought it to life. This past spring, in the height of that most cherished of seasons when the cherry blossoms in Japan bloom, I had the opportunity to do just that with the Citizen Attesa Platinum Shine. Attesa is, in many ways, a distillation of everything that makes Citizen special. It is the collection that showcases the most advanced technologies and techniques. They are modern, even futuristic-looking watches, designed with a forward-looking perspective on who Citizen is, and where it is going. Radio or satellite-controlled Eco-Drive movements, unique and complex dial materials, various cutting-edge methods for utilizing some of the best titanium alloys in watchmaking – these are all hallmarks of the Attesa collection. Like all of Citizen's watches, regardless of collection or price, Attesa is assembled by hand with the utmost capability and care. An evolution of the radio antennas used in Eco-Drive watches throughout the years. First released in 2025, when the Attesa collection was re-established in the U.S. as part of Citizen's new Premier category, the watch is available in several variations. Each one has a different reference number, an...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Early last year, our fearless leader Andrew McUtchen was fortunate enough to breach the inner sanctum of Hublot’s High Complication Department and have a chat with the boss, Emmanuel Missillier. What’s more, Mr Missillier proceeded to pull apart one of Hublot’s intricate tourbillon movements, all for our viewing pleasure. Hublot have made big strides … ContinuedThe post That time Hublot pulled apart a tourbillon cage to show us how it worked appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A stealthy DLC colourway has been added to the core collection of the Nodus Sector II platform.The post Nodus brings a stealthy look back to the range with the Sector II Pilot DLC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Sudden injuries, nosedives in form, squalid punch-ups in pub car-parks that are snapped by the tabloid press… Suffice to say when a watch brand picks a sporting ambassador it’s a decision fraught with risk. When Hublot signed Novak Djokovic last August, for example, they were justified in their belief they were partnering with a “living … ContinuedThe post Have IWC pulled off a masterstroke with teenage ski sensation Eileen Gu? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
What is the ultimate first world problem? I can think of a handful. There’s the classic notion that we just have too much content to scroll through, stream, and consume. As the Boss put it, there’s 57 channels and nothin’ on. As I sit here typing up this article on hot early summer day with my AC blasting, I’m realizing it’s getting cold enough in here that I might need to add a layer. Woe is me! Just a few weeks ago, I bought a new iPhone and quickly found that Apple Music hadn’t automatically moved over all of my locally downloaded tunes during the initial data transfer. I was pretty disappointed when I realized only the second half of Turn on the Bright Lights was available to me on a late night drive home over the weekend. I just want to hear “Obstacle 1”! These are all annoyances, for sure. But none of them truly compare to the King of First World Problems, which is very obviously not being able to keep your perpetual calendar sufficiently wound. I mean, have you tried to reset one of these things recently? It can be really frustrating. Plenty of brands, like IWC earlier this year, have made moves to make their perpetual calendar movements more forgiving when resetting. Gone are the days, hopefully, when jumping past the current year means an expensive trip back to the manufacture in Switzerland. Vacheron Constantin has a slightly different solution, which is to enable your perpetual calendar to remain wound for weeks at a time by allowing the wearer...
Worn & Wound
Inspiration can come from anywhere, and Isotope knows it. Since the brand’s founding in 2016, they have shown a knack for mining ideas from interesting places, and backing up their funky designs and color schemes with genuine technical prowess. Over the last eight years, they’ve made watches inspired by exit signs, NASA, British judges’ robes, and even the ridiculousness of gender-specific watches. But probably their most successful design came with the 2021 release of the “Will Return” Hydrium X Diver, a vibrant dive watch with a lume dial inspired by the “Closed, Will Return” signs found in shop windows all over the world. Now, as the promise of the name would suggest, the Will Return has, well, returned, albeit with some slight differences, and accompanied by a ridiculously cool wall clock. The new “Will Return Red” plays off the format of the 2021 release but makes a few changes. The biggest and boldest is that the blue bezel has been swapped out for a bright red one. The hands have been updated slightly, forfeiting the white border. There’s no blue to be found on the watch head, but the black FKM tropic-style rubber strap from the original release has been swapped for a light blue strap of the same construction. Ignoring the new colorway, the Will Return Red is the same watch Isotope has been making for the last few years. That’s a good thing, because despite the colorful and fun look of the Isotope, at its core the Hydrium X Diver is a properl...
Revolution
As is the trend now for so many brands with model-rich histories - think Cartier, Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre - “re-booting” a different range has become an annual activity. IWC is part of that tradition, having in recent years relaunched, for example, the Portofino and Portuguieser families. To the delight of a swathe of IWC devotees, this […]
Hodinkee
But at a higher price point, who is this watch for?
Monochrome
The Oris Big Crown started life in 1938 as a pilot’s watch with a large crown that could be operated while wearing gloves and a distinctive, red-tipped pointer hand to indicate the date on the dial’s perimeter. One of the brand’s most iconic models, the classic 40mm Big Crown Pointer Date returns today as a […]
Worn & Wound
As many are likely well aware, 2026 marks the 250th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence, and as we approach the 4th of July, there are going to be a lot of reminders of America’s big birthday. The watch industry, as we know, loves an anniversary, and Marathon has gotten in on the act with the new edition of their Navigator pilot’s watch with a handful of patriotic nods to America’s founding. Marathon has been supplying the Department of Defense and various branches of the United States military with MIL-SPEC watches for many years, and the Pilot’s Navigator in particular has special resonance within their collection as it was originally developed in partnership with Kelly Air Force Base in San Antonia, TX in 1986. It’s a signature watch for Marathon and directly tied to the Canadian brand’s longstanding relationship to the American military, so it serves as a natural canvas for a limited edition. Various aesthetic features of the new Anthracite Stainless Steel Pilot’s Navigator have been inspired directly by the U.S. flag and the Star Spangled Banner. According to Marathon, the anthracite stainless steel case (coated in black ion-plating) is inspired by the line “the twilight’s last gleaming” in the national anthem. Similarly, the single red tritium tube at 12:00 is a reference to “the rockets’ red glare”. Lastly, a “1776” stamp can be found on the dial just under 12:00. It’s circled by stars, and a visual refer...
Hodinkee
From pilot watches and chronographs to a ceramic model and the first-ever Portofino "Le Petit Prince" model, IWC is septupling down on its "Le Petit Prince" models over 80 years after the beloved novella's publication.
Fratello
Pilot’s watches have a habit of getting carried away with themselves. Some lean so hard into the heritage side that they end up feeling more like costume pieces than modern watches. I don’t know about you, but I’m not interested in cosplaying as a WWII fighter pilot. Others go big for the sake of it, […] Visit How HTD’s New Phantom Finally Keeps The Pilot Watch Formula In Check to read the full article.
Fratello
Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Last year, Tudor added a new 36mm size and a beige-dial option to its entry-level Ranger lineup. In November, we put it up against the Christopher Ward C65 Dune, and the Tudor won by quite a big margin. You could say it was an unfair match, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger (39mm) Vs. Longines Spirit Pilot to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
In 2017, IWC introduced a proprietary alloy called Ceratanium, or ceramized titanium, a hard, lightweight material that combined the best of ceramic and titanium. Oh, and it happened to look pretty cool as well. The material has been used sparingly in the intervening years, largely appearing across the brand’s sport-watch portfolio, from the Pilot to the Aquatimer collections. This week, Ceratanium is making its first appearance in the Portugieser collection with a new, limited-edition 41mm chronograph featuring a Ceratanium case affixed to a black rubber strap. In an effort to drive the point home, the rest of the watch is fully murdered out making the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium a decidedly sporty take on this otherwise dressier collection. [toc-section heading="What's New"] The new watch is the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, and it turns the classic chronograph layout on its head by rendering every detail in shades of black (insert Henry Ford quote here). The Portugieser is a historic watch with roots that date back to the late 1930s, and its modern aesthetic is largely referential to that history. That underlying design remains intact here, with a large, open dial hosting Arabic numerals at each hour, and a set of leaf hands tracking the time against them. The two subdials are arranged vertically, retaining a symmetric layout that recalls the original time-only references that had subsidiary seconds located at 6 o’clock. Using Ceratanium (which ha...
Time+Tide
Mido's TV test card special edition returns after a successful pilot episode, with this Episode 2 edition featuring a more subdued grey look.The post Tune into Episode 2 of Mido’s Multifort TV Big Date special editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Oris has long defined itself as a maker of mechanical watches for “today’s world citizens”, with a clear commitment to function, value, robust engineering, supported by original looks. The new Big Crown Calibre 113 extends that philosophy by combining the brand’s historic pilot’s watch design with one of its most advanced hand-wound movements. Initially introduced […]
Worn & Wound
Happy first weekend of August, and welcome to another new release summary! Would that make it a “summery” summary? Bad alliterative jokes aside, we’ve seen some exciting new pieces from big-name watchmakers and microbrands alike. Rounding out this release list are a colorful new IWC Top Gun collab, a Jaeger-LeCoulture that shoots for the stars, a meteoric Bremont with lofty aspirations, and a Minase that brings a little winter chill to the summer sun. Read on, and let us know if there is a new release that you think we missed out on in the comments! IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar Far from their first Top Gun release, IWC’s new chronograph may not seem that exciting at first glance. But the new Miramar edition has a secret weapon: a Pantone hue of the same name. Other Top Gun IWCs have been made available in shades of black, gray, and beige, which although appropriate for the military-theme, aren’t terribly exciting from a color perspective. The Miramar, then, stands out with its unapologetically cheery blue, inspired by the light blue t-shirts worn by TOPGUN flight instructors under their flight suits. It’s not just the color that gives the Miramar an edge, though. Design-wise, the left-leaning subdials at the 12, 6, and 9 o’clock positions, balanced out by the dual date and day windows, provide for a handsomely readable aesthetic. The typeface is characteristic of other IWC Top Gun watches, with rounded sans serif numeral...
Fratello
It is no secret that I greatly appreciate Titoni’s efforts to create great watches at affordable prices. The brand has surprised me multiple times with its creations. In particular, the Seascoper line is a big personal favorite. But Titoni has plenty more to offer with a varied collection of watches. Another important line is the […] Visit Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Titoni Airmaster Pilot to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Porter, a Japanese cult brand famous for its functional nylon bags, has lent its signature colours to Zenith to create the Pilot Central Automatic Porter and the Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph Porter. The new Pilot duo retain the familiar aviation-inspired design, but in green with orange accents, including for the first time a case in khaki green ceramic. Both models are delivered with two straps: a conventional Cordura-effect rubber strap and a green nylon strap made by Porter. Initial thoughts While the Pilot Porter isn’t an iconic classic like Zenith’s El Primero, it is a unique take on the traditional aviator’s watch that is different but still functional, not unlike Porter bags that are popular for their no-frills quality. The green and orange livery is appealing and avoids the usual pilot’s watch look, but remains entirely legible and utilitarian. Priced at US$11,300 for the time-only variant and US$15,500 for the chronograph, the Pilot Porter is priced comparably to the equivalent regular-production Pilot models. Though both are more expensive than Zenith’s offerings in steel, they are priced reasonably enough considering the material and movement, as well as the competition. Khaki green Porter is the most famous label owned by Yoshida & Co., a Japanese maker of luggage and bags. Usually in dark-coloured nylon with contrast-colour lining, Porter bags are multi-pocketed and useful (and also quite pricey for nylon bags). The Pilot Porter models adopt th...
Fratello
Formex is arguably one of the most underrated watch brands out there. If you have had the chance to handle any of Formex’s watches, you know they are very well-made spec monsters at sharp prices. Today, the brand releases its take on a pilot’s watch with the Formex Stratos UTC. The big news? The Formex […] Visit Introducing: The Formex Stratos UTC - Formex’s Clever Take On A Pilot’s Watch to read the full article.
Fratello
This feature was researched with the help of Nic Barnes, who is a pilot, watch enthusiast, and occasional contributor for Watches of Espionage. Our thanks to the Schaffhausen City Archive and Schaffhauser Magazine for providing materials that greatly contributed to our research for this story. It is one about a remarkable man with connections to […] Visit The Olympian IWC Watch Designer Who Fought Nazis In The Skies Of Switzerland to read the full article.
SJX Watches
IWC just revealed an experimental Pilot’s chronograph with a luminous ceramic case – on the wrist of Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton at the Monaco Grand Prix. Christened Ceralume, the material was developed XPL, the watchmaker’s experimental engineering department. According to IWC, the Ceralume concept watch was glowing a bright blue for more than 24 hours in dark chamber tests (although it didn’t state how the material was “charged” prior to the test). According to IWC, the patent-pending material is created by blending ceramic powder with Super-Luminova, the luminous material produced by RC Tritec that absorbs light energy and then emits it. Being non-radioactive, Super-Luminova is widely used to illuminate watch dials, and also suited to a case material. Though IWC has not revealed specifics about future plans for the material, it did say Ceralume will “form the foundation of future developments and releases.” Lewis Hamilton at the 2024 Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix Initial thoughts Ever since the discovery of radium in 1898, luminous materials have become commonplace in watches, primarily to aid legibility. With legibility being less crucial today, luminous paint is increasingly used for purely aesthetic purposes. Moreover, luminous ceramic is not actually new. Tudor, for instance, used luminous ceramic hour markers in the Black Bay Pro of 2022. IWC is the first to make an entire case from the material, albeit not one that is available commercially (ye...
Time+Tide
The new Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Hulk comes with a green-on-green colour scheme, a quick-set date, and a true GMT caliber It has a compact case of 40mm made of lightweight titanium The new Roadmaster Pilot GMT Hulk is limited to 1,000 pieces GMT watches are becoming increasingly popular, and brands big and small … ContinuedThe post The Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Green offers a unique take on a true GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Last year, IWC reinvigorated the underrated Portofino line that’s long been overshadowed by the bestselling Pilot’s Watch and Portugieser. Historically one of the brand’s most classical offerings, the Portofino is best summarised as clean, almost minimalist, with the occasional Roman numerals. While recent Portofino complications have been somewhat plain, the Portofino perpetual calendar made things a little more interesting. Now IWC is continuing with the theme in a more affordable manner with the Portofino Complete Calendar. Taking its design cues from the more complex perpetual, the Complete Calendar is slightly larger but mechanically simpler. And as a result of the entry-level pricing, it is is powered by the no-frills ValFleurier movement widely used by watch brands owned by Swiss luxury group Richemont, which naturally includes IWC. The symmetrical dial The ValFleurier movement has been dressed up for the display back Initial thoughts For the longest time, IWC has emphasised two lines, Pilot’s Watches and Portugieser, simply because they sell the best. At the same time, it has tried to rejuvenate its other collections like the Ingenieuir and Aquatimer with little success. Last year it made tentative steps in reviving the Portofino collection with an all-new perpetual calendar. Simple in design, the Portofino perpetual doesn’t try to do too much – and for that reason it found some success as the brand’s entry-level perpetual calendar. Now IWC is ...
Time+Tide
IWC usually brings to mind the stern, sporty range of military-inspired pilot’s watches, and occasionally the suave dressiness of one of their Portugeisers. Often under-appreciated is the Portofino collection - a group of watches which pay homage to one of the most classic eras in watchmaking history. With elegance and detail-oriented excellence in spades, the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino collection delivers classical sophistication in spades appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Ingenieur's answer to the Big Pilot still has Genta's DNA.
SJX Watches
Pilot’s watches, and specifically military-inspired pilot’s watches, are a pillar of the modern, luxury watch industry. Dozens of brands, notably IWC, Breitling, Bell & Ross, Bremont, and Yema, have made military aviation a core theme of their image. So it’s somewhat ironic that today’s elite military pilots don’t wear mechanical watches in the cockpit. A recent survey of pilots at MCAS Miramar, the airbase once home to the prestigious “Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor” programme – better known as TOPGUN – revealed that not a single pilot was wearing a mechanical watch. Instead, military pilots increasingly wear smartwatches designed specifically for aviators like the Garmin D2 that can monitor oxygen levels and act as a backup navigation system. Modern pilot’s watches made by luxury brands are more like “fan fiction”; a designer’s dream of what might have been. But this wasn’t always the case. Mechanical watches were once state-of-the-art technology and vital instruments for navigators and pilots before being rendered obsolete by quartz technology. This is the story of how the urgency of the Cold War gave the humble balance wheel one last chance to patrol the skies. The jet-shaped counterweight on the IWC Top Gun SFTI calls to mind the airplane-tipped chronograph minutes hand of Cold War-era pilot’s watches like the Tutima 798 A brief history of the pilot’s watch Pilot’s watches have been around for almost as long as there have been p...
Hodinkee
Fans of the brand's 40mm Pilot's Watch spoke, and it seems IWC listened.
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