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Watches & Wonders: Tudor Updates the Black Bay Ceramic with a New Bracelet Worn & Wound
Tudor Updates Apr 21, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Tudor Updates the Black Bay Ceramic with a New Bracelet

“So many Tudors, so little time.” That could be a bumper sticker, a tattoo, and perhaps even the Watches & Wonders motto in almost any year the event takes place. One of the real challenges of the show, at least in the very first moments of it, is deciding which Tudor releases to focus on. As we’ve discussed many times, Tudor is one of the only brands that does not give press early access to news of their new releases. Each of the last few years, their official press release has hit while our team was on the shuttle from our hotel to Palexpo for the first day of the show (where we always meet with Tudor first thing in the morning). Part of those first few hours of Watches & Wonders always involves discussing and trying to predict which of their novelties are going to be of the greatest interest to our readers.  This year, it was pretty clear that the new Monarch was going to be the most discussed new Tudor release. It’s a brand new watch, after all, with a new case and bracelet design, and a new movement. Even if it went over like a lead balloon with the public, that’s clearly the most newsworthy release and the one to lead with. The Black Bay 54 in blue also felt like it would generate a lot of discussion. And we wouldn’t have suspected it at the time, but the Royal relaunch is actually pretty major as well – those watches are much better in person than we could have imagined from the press release, and they represent a substantial investment on Tudor’s p...

Watches & Wonders: A Few Thoughts on Nostalgia, the 1990s, and Moser’s Streamliner Pump Worn & Wound
H. Moser Apr 21, 2026

Watches & Wonders: A Few Thoughts on Nostalgia, the 1990s, and Moser’s Streamliner Pump

Playing on nostalgia is nothing new for watch brands, but I’ve mostly been immune to it. Usually it’s for a period of time I wasn’t alive for, or a war I didn’t fight in, or an old car I simply don’t care about. But I’ve come to accept that I’m at an age where nostalgia for me is actually real history for many. My lived experience of hanging up phones, buying CDs that came in cardboard long boxes, and killing time in malls doing nothing at all might seem as foreign to someone 20 years younger than me as getting all misty about the Pan-Am logo does for my friends and colleagues at the heart of Gen-X.  It was inevitable that a luxury watch brand would reach back into my childhood and pull something out like the Reebok Pump. The fact that it’s H. Moser is not particularly surprising given the brand’s recent history of challenging somewhat stodgy conventions of what it means to be a “luxury” brand in the first place. But it does make me feel a little old to know that something I have such a clear memory of from my youth is fodder for the watch nostalgia marketing machine.  For those who have forgotten or are simply too young to remember, the Pump was a line of basketball shoes introduced by Reebok in the early 90s with a particularly enticing gimmick, at least to impressionable children who waited all week to watch NBA Inside Stuff every Saturday morning: the shoe’s tongue was topped with a rubber basketball “pump.” Pushing it inflated an air pock...

Five Highlights From Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 Deployant
Patek Philippe Apr 17, 2026

Five Highlights From Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Patek Philippe brought more than twenty new references to WWG26 across its main collections. Instead of running through the full list, we pulled out five models that give a clear sense of what the manufacture introduced this year - one from each of the major lines and representative of the updates shown at the fair. [...] The post Five Highlights From Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Parmigiani Celebrates 30 Years With Multiple New Releases Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier arrived armed Apr 17, 2026

Parmigiani Celebrates 30 Years With Multiple New Releases

This year, at Watches and Wonders 2026, Parmigiani Fleurier arrived armed with a host of new releases to celebrate 30 years as a brand. Unlike many watches from other marques, though, these pieces are not modernized renditions of prior watches. Instead, as we’ll see, they offer hand-finished dials and precious metals, aside from but also […] Visit Parmigiani Celebrates 30 Years With Multiple New Releases to read the full article.

Introducing – The Chanel J12 Bleu 38mm and 33mm, in Matte Blue Ceramic Monochrome
Chanel J12 Bleu 38mm Apr 17, 2026

Introducing – The Chanel J12 Bleu 38mm and 33mm, in Matte Blue Ceramic

Twenty-six years ago, Chanel introduced the J12, a luxury sports watch crafted from sleek, black high-tech ceramic. Designed by artistic director Jacques Helleu, the collection was named after the J-class 12-metre racing yachts competing in the America’s Cup. An overnight success, the J12 appealed to men and women alike with its chic, unisex aesthetic. Chanel’s […]

Bremont Launches Two Chronographs: One Into The Sky, The Other Into Space Fratello
Bremont Launches Two Chronographs One Apr 16, 2026

Bremont Launches Two Chronographs: One Into The Sky, The Other Into Space

Bremont is going to the Moon later this year. Well, a Bremont watch will travel to the Moon, never to come back. During this year’s edition of Watches and Wonders, Bremont launches two chronographs belonging to different realms. The Altitude Chronograph Pulsograph Valjoux 23 is a traditional pilot’s watch outfitted with a classic movement. The […] Visit Bremont Launches Two Chronographs: One Into The Sky, The Other Into Space to read the full article.

Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko’s Nature-Inspired SBGZ011 Spring Drive Limited Release Shows The Shape of Water Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Nature-Inspired SBGZ011 Spring Apr 16, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko’s Nature-Inspired SBGZ011 Spring Drive Limited Release Shows The Shape of Water

Deep in the heart of a primeval forest lies a waterfall whose fresh spring waters are unspoilt by man, and whose mystic beauty is an endless source of inspiration - for the band of artisans who quietly engrave by hand some of the most intricately detailed watches in the world. It’s not a Studio Ghibli movie: the Tateshina Falls are real, located in central Japan’s Nagano Prefecture, which is also home to Grand Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio. And at Watches and Wonders 2026, a limited release pays tribute to this serene locale with a Spring Drive model that, according to Grand Seiko, “conveys time’s eternal flow in nature.”  The Masterpiece Collection SBGZ011 takes Grand Seiko’s sharp-edged 44GS case - rendered in platinum - and imbues it with hand-engraved lines from lug to lug, around the bezel, and entirely within the dial (save for a thin minute ring). These dashed silver lines flow in colliding swirls, bursting forth and blending into each other with seeming chaos; Grand Seiko suggests that they represent spring water bubbling forth from below the earth’s surface. On the bezel and the case’s flat surfaces and intersecting ridges, the patterns appear even more dramatic, resembling petals of a monochromatic flower. And on the dial, the white-gold hands and markers provide smooth, brilliant contrast, while the Grand Seiko and Spring Drive logos are carved and inset in their own boxes.  The manual-winding Caliber 9R02 is Grand Seiko’s thinnest Spri...

First Look – Cartier Unveils a Trilogy of Santos-Dumont with Precious Metal Bracelets Monochrome
Cartier Unveils Apr 16, 2026

First Look – Cartier Unveils a Trilogy of Santos-Dumont with Precious Metal Bracelets

As they say, necessity is the mother of invention. In 1904, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont approached Louis Cartier, complaining that pocket watches were impractical in flight – he needed both hands on the controls. Louis Cartier’s solution not only marked the birth of an icon but is also widely considered the first purpose-built men’s wristwatch. […]

Introducing – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar Apr 16, 2026

Introducing – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel

Last year, Roger Dubuis unveiled the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, a revival of a signature biretrograde complication co-patented by founder Roger Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor) in 1989. Although this calendar version is simpler than the double retrograde QP the two men developed, it features the signature retrograde aesthetic intimately associated with Roger Dubuis. Following the […]

First Look – The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric 30th-Anniversary Trilogy, with Hand-Hammered Dials Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric 30th-Anniversary Trilogy Apr 16, 2026

First Look – The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric 30th-Anniversary Trilogy, with Hand-Hammered Dials

Master watchmaker and restorer Michel Parmigiani’s original Toric QP Rétrograde was Parmigiani Fleurier’s foundational watch marking the brand’s launch in 1996. Following the appointment of Guido Terreni in 2021, many of Michel Parmigiani’s models were put on standby to allow Terreni to chart the brand’s new design direction, with a primary focus on the Tonda […]

First Look – The New Bremont Altitude Chronograph Pulsograph Valjoux 23 Monochrome
Bremont Altitude Chronograph Pulsograph Valjoux Apr 16, 2026

First Look – The New Bremont Altitude Chronograph Pulsograph Valjoux 23

Following CEO Davide Cerrato’s arrival in 2023, many Bremont fans feared that the strong aviation, tool-watch spirit of its founders, the English brothers, would be diluted. Released in 2025, the redesigned Altitude Collection, an evolution of the hyper-resilient Martin-Baker (MB) pilot watches with Trip-Tick cases, proved otherwise. In a move bound to win over collectors, Bremont […]

IWC Expands Ingenieur 35 Collection SJX Watches
IWC Expands Ingenieur 35 Collection Apr 15, 2026

IWC Expands Ingenieur 35 Collection

True to form, IWC has expanded the Ingenieur Automatic 35 with two new references: a blue dial that completes the mid-sized lineup’s colour palette, and the first gem-set Ingenieur of the modern era. Both are straightforward line extensions but should prove commercially successful, especially in the context of current trends favouring smaller watches. Initial thoughts Vintage watch enthusiasts and buyers with smaller wrists will appreciate these additions to the catalogue, though many mainstream watch buyers dismiss any watch under 36 mm out of hand. That instinct is understandable, but misleading here: integrated bracelet watches wear more substantially than their diameters tend to suggest, and the Ingenieur 35 is a watch best understood on the wrist rather than on paper. With the introduction of a diamond-set two-tone reference, it appears IWC is positioning this size as the unisex choice for both men and women while exploring new formats for a broader appeal. New references in the Ingenieur lineup have arrived in a recognisable pattern. Reintroduced in 2023, the current-generation Ingenieur draws on the design language of Gerald Genta’s original but in a 40 mm steel case, offered from launch with silver and black-dialled variants. The ever-popular blue dial joined the 40 mm lineup a year after the collection’s refresh. The 35 mm size is following a similar pattern after launching last year with black and silver dial options. Inevitably blue The ref. IW324907 will ...

Watches & Wonders: the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar Returns with a New Case Size and Caliber Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar Returns with a New Case Size and Caliber

A. Lange & Söhne had one of my, and many others’, favorite releases at Watches & Wonders 2025. It wasn’t a super complication and had no bells-and-whistles. Rather, it was simple and small. The 34mm 1815 three-handers in white or rose gold exemplified confident, understated luxury like no other watches at the fair. For 2026, Lange has brought back a watch that had been out of production with a new movement and in a new, smaller size, following suit from last year’s release. Unlike the 1815s, these feature one of the less common complications in the Lange catalog: the annual calendar. The Saxonia Annual Calendar was a very cool watch. It combined its eponymous complication with Lange’s signature outsized date and was powered by a since-retired “Sax-0-Mat” three-quarter-rotor automatic movement. These funky movements were featured in the Langematik watches and represented Lange’s first foray into automatic calibers. In addition to a distinctive look, they featured a hidden complication: zero-reset seconds, meaning that when the crown was pulled out, the seconds hand would jump to zero. In 2011, the Sax-O-Mats began to be replaced by central rotor calibers with up to 72 hours of power reserve, an increase from 46 hours, but the zero-reset seconds disappeared. Though comprising many different calibers, most of Lange’s currently in-production automatics have a central rotor. I am unsure when the previous generation of the Saxonia Annual Calendar went out of pro...

First Look – The New A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 14, 2026

First Look – The New A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen

A. Lange & Söhne‘s main novelty for 2026 is the impressive Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen, a 50-piece edition that weds the brand’s two complications to its pioneering Lumen technology for the first time. While the iconic Lange 1 retains its off-centred configuration, core functions and proportions, the watch is powered by a new […]

Refinement Rules At Chopard: The New Lucent Steel Alpine Eagle 41 XPS “Mountain Glow” And L.U.C 1860 With An Areuse Blue Dial Fratello
Chopard Apr 14, 2026

Refinement Rules At Chopard: The New Lucent Steel Alpine Eagle 41 XPS “Mountain Glow” And L.U.C 1860 With An Areuse Blue Dial

Although eagles are not an endangered species, you don’t see too many of them around, especially the very thin ones. Alpine Eagles, I mean. Luckily, refinement rules at Chopard, and that means the hatching of the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS “Mountain Glow,” an 8mm-thick version of the brand’s luxury sports watch in bright Lucent Steel […] Visit Refinement Rules At Chopard: The New Lucent Steel Alpine Eagle 41 XPS “Mountain Glow” And L.U.C 1860 With An Areuse Blue Dial to read the full article.

Introducing: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 With A Green Lacquer Ombré Dial Fratello
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Apr 13, 2026

Introducing: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 With A Green Lacquer Ombré Dial

The Datejust was my first Rolex, and I believe it was for many. It’s the perfect one-watch-do-it-all. The modern Rolex Datejust prices could make you think differently, but it was never a cheap watch to begin with. My colleague Gerard often called it “the mother of all modern wristwatches,” and I agree with him. It’s […] Visit Introducing: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 With A Green Lacquer Ombré Dial to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarme 24-hour Reference 5322G Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarme 24-hour Reference Apr 13, 2026

Introducing – The New Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarme 24-hour Reference 5322G

Among the many novelties presented by Patek Philippe on the occasion of Watches and Wonders 2026, the Geneva manufacture expands its range of complications useful for everyday life with the elegant yet modern Calatrava 5322G reference, featuring a 24-hour alarm. Available in green or blue, its design pairs a dial with a black-gradient rim and […]

Introducing: Three New Patek Philippe Nautilus References Celebrating The Watch’s 50th Anniversary Fratello
Patek Philippe Nautilus References Celebrating Apr 13, 2026

Introducing: Three New Patek Philippe Nautilus References Celebrating The Watch’s 50th Anniversary

The Patek Philippe Nautilus returns in three new references that lean into the model’s archetypal design. They feature thin cases, clean dials, and a familiar architecture to celebrate 50 years of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. All three use the ultra-thin caliber 240, now with a commemorative mini-rotor engraving that pays homage to the model’s 1976 […] Visit Introducing: Three New Patek Philippe Nautilus References Celebrating The Watch’s 50th Anniversary to read the full article.

In-Depth – The Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver, GS’ Smallest and Most Accurate Dive Watch Monochrome
Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio Apr 13, 2026

In-Depth – The Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver, GS’ Smallest and Most Accurate Dive Watch

While dive watches are fundamental to Seiko’s Prospex collection, the concept is slightly less natural for Grand Seiko. At first sight… Indeed, the higher-end brand of Seiko Corporation has been active in the field of purpose-built diving instruments since 2008, delivering impressive models, whether in terms of specs, looks or, unfortunately, size. One of the main complaints heard […]

Introducing – Three Patek Philippe Nautilus 50th Anniversary Limited Wristwatches… And a Nautilus Pocket Watch Monochrome
Patek Philippe Nautilus 50th Anniversary Limited Apr 13, 2026

Introducing – Three Patek Philippe Nautilus 50th Anniversary Limited Wristwatches… And a Nautilus Pocket Watch

This year, Patek Philippe celebrates the 50th anniversary of a cult watch, the Nautilus. As expected, we are getting some celebratory limited editions. The 30th anniversary of the collection saw the introduction of the references 5711, 5712 Moon and 5980 Chronograph, with what was at the time a true re-launch of the Nautilus (6 references […]