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Quill & Pad
The Hermès Arceau Petite Lune Jeté de Diamants et Saphirs adds a fanciful and whimsical slant to the Arceau Petite Lune, which is just begging for some fun. This new version utilizes a mother-of-pearl dial and date subdial adorned by 65 blue sapphires and 58 tiny diamonds. It's a Goldilocks splash of flash, not too much and not too little. Time to fall in love!
SJX Watches
Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie made a name for itself with its beautifully crafted watches that capture the grace of 1940s timepieces. But all of its work so far has centred on time-only watches, all powered by heavily decorated vintage Omega movements. But now the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph takes things to a whole new level. Retaining the elegant feel of the brand’s earlier creations, the AdC #8 is powered by a reworked movement that started out as a Venus 185 but completely reworked by Atelier de Chronométrie, with a substantial number of parts made from scratch. Commissioned by an American collector, the AdC #8 is largely hand made, with everything hand finished to a superlative, artisanal standard, which is why it took took two years to complete. Initial thoughts I first found out about this watch late last year, and it sounded promising given Atelier de Chronométrie’s track record in design and movement finishing. Though I am going by photos, the finished product definitely lives up to expectations, and then some. Everything about it is just done extremely well, and while it costs a lot of money, the AdC #8 is compellingly and reasonably priced as such things go. Having closely examined Atelier de Chronométrie’s earlier watches, the AdC #8 will undoubtedly have the same feel – visually similar to a vintage watch but much more solid in the hand thanks to a more robust, modern case. A little under 40 mm in diameter, the AdC #8 has the proporti...
SJX Watches
Jaquet Droz was historically renowned for elaborate and ornamental pocket watches, often decorated with enamel and pearls, reflecting the brand’s on the Chinese market, which demanded lavishly decorated timepieces. The brand’s newest pair of paillonné enamel wristwatches – the Fleur de Lys Grande Seconde Paillonnée and Fleur de Vie Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée – embody the brand’s past aesthetic sensibilities. French for “spangled”, a reference to the tiny decorative pieces of gold foil that make up the pattern, paillonné enamelling has been a specialty of Jaquet Droz since its modern-day revival, starting with the very first Grande Seconde Paillonnée of 2004 that had a dial made by enamel artisan Anita Porchet. Jaquet Droz has since mastered the fine art of paillonné enamelling, with recent editions like the Paillonnée Enamel “Gold Arabesques” featuring dials made in its own workshops. Initial thoughts The new pair of paillonné enamel watches do not fail to impress with their vivid colours and patterns – gold paillons against translucent blue enamel over guilloché makes for a dynamic combination that immediately catches the eye. And up close, which is the best way to appreciate the enamelling, the gold paillons are tiny yet intricate and nuanced. The ring circling the sub-dials on both watches is made of 18k red gold Out of the two, I gravitate towards the Fleur de Vie due to its 35 mm case, which is fitting for a dress watch, esp...
Time+Tide
Certain expertise has always been found in specific parts of the world, creating hubs of creativity and technical innovation. So what would happen if you put the watchmaking nous of La Chaux-de-Fonds and the tech capability of Silicon Valley together into a watch? You get the TAG Heuer Connected watch, generation 3. The first generation … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected generation 3 is the Swiss and Silicon Valley doing what they do best, together appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
As it does every couple of years, or decades, Cartier reintroduces one of its iconic wristwatches, this time the Pasha de Cartier. Launched in 1985 and a big hit in the decade after, the Pasha was Cartier’s original round-case bestseller, long before the Ballon Bleu. Three decades on, the new Pasha makes its debut once again at Watches & Wonders 2020 as a full-fledged collection with models for both men and women, from time-only to skeleton tourbillon, as well as diamond-set versions. Variants of the new Pasha 41 mm for men Mysterious origins Despite having a round case – Cartier is most famous for its shaped watches like the Tank and Santos – the Pasha is amongst the most historically-important Cartier timepieces, apparently. Legend has it that Cartier first created a water-resistant watch in 1934 for the fabulously wealthy Pasha of Marrakesh, Thami El Glaoui, who wanted a watch he could wear while swimming. The result was one of the first-ever luxury-sports watches. While the Parisian jeweller no doubt made a watch to fulfil the Pasha’s request, it was most likely a rectangular Tank Etanche, rather than anything resembling today’s Pasha watch. Inspired by that tale, the modern-day Pasha was born in 1985, penned by the hand of Gerald Genta, the prolific designer whose heyday in the 1970s and 1980s saw him create a string of hits, ranging from the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak to the Bulgari Bulgari. Genta’s creations were often avant-garde in their day, and his...
Video
Probably the best part of wearing and collecting GREAT watches is the fact that you do not need thousands of dollars to do so: Today, we’re looking at affordable icons all under $500 that you’ll actually wear and...
Quill & Pad
The Cartier Ronde Louis Cartier Regard de Panthère is a stunning mosaic watch that must be seen and handled personally for the full effect. Often jewelry pieces can look stunning on the screen, however Joshua Munchow feels that this piece as a work of art is not best represented in digital pixels but perfectly suited for a real-life experience.
Time+Tide
As 2019 draws to a close and I get the opportunity to reflect on the year that was (as well as prepare for endless upcoming jokes on my 2020 vision), it’s impossible not to acknowledge that it has been a massive year for Time+Tide. The team has worked hard on a number of different projects, … ContinuedThe post LIST: Nick Kenyon’s 5 favourite articles of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Look, full disclosure. We did not know (or indeed pay) Sherwood to give us this particular answer. But having said that, it’s quite nice to hear someone say they bought a watch off your review. And honestly, of the many (many) watches I’ve reviewed over the years, you could do a whole lot worse than … ContinuedThe post Sherwood’s Grand Seiko Snowflake appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Ferdinand Adolph Lange was born in Dresden on February 18, 1815. Thirty years later he’d found the eponymous company, and 145 years after that a reborn A. Lange & Söhne would rise from the proverbial ashes of East Germany. The A. Lange & Söhne we know today debuted in 1994 when the brand launched four watches: Arkade, Saxonia, Lange 1, and the flagship Tourbillon Pour le Mérite, which established a set of visual codes that would later define the 1815 collection. Today, the 1815 family is primarily known for its many time-only variants, the 1815 Up/Down, and, of course, the 1815 Chronograph. However, the 1815 collection also includes some of the brand’s most extraordinary, unusual, and rarely seen models. Photo credits: @lelangelust and @scatteringphotons Lange 1815 Emil Lange Moon Phase, c. 1999 The Tourbillon Pour le Mérite of 1994 defined the 1815 collection’s design codes, specifically the printed Arabic dial that is vaguely reminiscent of a pocket watch despite being an almost from-scratch design. However, it was not officially badged as an 1815. That designation arrived the following year with the refs. 206.021 in yellow gold and 206.025 in white gold. These introductions saw the rectangular movement inside the Arkade and Saxonia reformatted to make it presentable through a display case back. The extra space was put to use in the followup 1815 Up/Down, which added the namesake power reserve indicator and recreated the running seconds. In 1999, Lange launched...
SJX Watches
At the beginning of the year, we wondered if 2026 might become the year of the jumping hours wristwatch. While that trend is still developing, a spate of new releases in the past few months has crystallised another trend that’s been taking shape for a number of years: the inverted movement. While not an altogether new format, it’s hard to miss its growing popularity. What is an inverted movement? There’s no hard-and-fast rule for what constitutes an inverted movement, since the category itself has emerged informally. That said, a simple definition takes the term at face value: a movement that’s been reversed inside the case, such that barrel(s), gear train, and escapement are fully exposed on the wrist. The dial, if there is one at all, is usually consigned to a dial flange or small, off-centre time display. Ordinarily, an inverted movement begins its product lifecycle like any other conventional calibre. The Voutilainen 28TI, for example, was adapted from the brand’s normal cal. 28, with an additional train over the centre wheel to reverse the direction of the hands. However, sometimes the inverted variant is selected as the launch platform, with a conventional sibling that follows later — sometimes much later. The inverted cal. 507DR that powered the Breguet Tradition 7027 — the watch that arguably pioneered this trend back in 2005 — pre-dated its conventional counterpart by two decades. The cal. VS00 that powers the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 is...
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Most watch content gets ignored: too dark, too repetitive.
Fratello
“Droit au But,” translated roughly as “Straight to the Goal,” has been Olympique de Marseille’s motto since the club’s foundation in 1899 and appears beneath the “OM” crest. OM is one of the most recognizable clubs in French football. Its greatest achievement came on May 26th, 1993, when OM defeated AC Milan 1–0 in Munich […] Visit A Heavenly “Match” — The Olympique De Marseille × Jacques Bianchi Marseille JB200 Chronometer Limited Edition to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The latest Cartier Santos de Cartier Chronograph drops down from XL sizing to Cartier's large size for more refined proportions.
Teddy Baldassarre
Follow along with this guide for specs on the best Tissot watches, as determined by our audience.
Fratello
I have been a Stan Smith (both the man and the shoe) aficionado for as long as I can remember, so getting to sit down with the man himself a few years ago felt like a bucket-list moment. I have Maurice de Mauriac to thank for that introduction. I’ve stayed close to the Zurich brand […] Visit Maurice De Mauriac And Swiss Tennis Celebrate 130 Years With A New Rallymaster to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Maurice de Mauriac has released their latest in the ongoing Rallymaster series today. The Rallymaster has become a hit in recent years among the growing crowd of overlapping tennis and watch enthusiasts, with a string of limited editions tied to the Grand Slam tennis championships. These watches, designed by Carlton DeWoody, have a real charm to them, and honestly work better than they should given some of the more literal tennis influenced design elements. The watches have always worked though because of their whimsy and a clarity of vision that doesn’t take itself too seriously. DeWoody also has a real knack for color, and has always been able to figure out the right way to reference specific aspects of the sport without it all going completely over the top. In other words, they are just fun, nice looking watches. The latest in the series, the Rallymaster Swiss Tennis, is perhaps a little more inside baseball for tennis fans (sorry to mix sports metaphors there). Revealed at the Swiss Open in Gstaad, the colorway is dominated by tones found in the Swiss flag, and the watch leans into Swiss tennis heritage and the country’s appreciation for the sport. Maurice de Mauriac is the official timekeeper of Swiss Tennis, the sport’s governing body in Switzerland. The new Rallymaster features the same tennis net inspired graphic running across the center of the dial that we’ve seen in previous editions, here situated against a brushed silver dial surface. The dial is a...
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Everyone's chasing the latest hype watch, but what if true style isn't about what's loud, but what's subtle?
Time+Tide
The new Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster Swiss Tennis serves as a patriotic tribute to the 130th anniversary of the Swiss Tennis Association.
SJX Watches
Most recently the chief executive of TAG Heuer, Antoine Pin has just started in the top job at De Bethune, the independent watchmaker owned by American watch retail giant The 1916 Company. De Bethune in its entirety sells as many watches in a year as a single TAG Heuer boutique does in a few months, so the scale is entirely different, as is the price segment and target audience. It’s almost a certainty that Mr Pin was tapped by De Bethune’s owners to take the brand to the next level in terms of size and reach, an ambition that now seems realistic given the success of F.P. Journe. Mr Pin will lead De Bethune alongside Denis Flageollet, the brand’s cofounder who has been its technical driving force since the beginning. He takes over from Pierre Jacques, a two-time chief executive of De Bethune who ran the brand from 2010 to 2015, and then again from 2017 to 2025 after a change in ownership. With an extensive track record in watchmaking going all the way back to Sainte-Croix in the 1990s, Mr Flageollet’s technical prowess is unquestionable; amongst his recent creations is the Sympathique clock in collaboration with Louis Vuitton. His watchmaking talent will be complemented by Mr Pin’s management and marketing know-how, skills honed over two decades at LVMH, where he climbed the ranks and held various management roles at Berluti, Bulgari, and Zenith. He was chief executive of TAG Heuer for almost 18 months before a surprise departure at the start of 2026.
Hodinkee
"It's hard to think of anywhere else on the planet that combines scenic beauty, history, and automotive culture as harmoniously as the Villa d'Este on Lake Como." That's the official program's own description of the Concorso d'Eleganza at Villa d'Este, and after spending a weekend on the shores of Lake Como in the company of A. Lange & Söhne, I'm struggling to beat that. Concorso d'Eleganza, Villa d'Este The Concorso dates back to 1929, and while it paused during the war, it returned in the 1990s and has since become one of the most significant automotive gatherings on earth, with the BMW Group taking on title sponsorship in 2001. Every May, it spreads across Villa d'Este and the neighboring Villa Erba, with pre-war coachwork, Italian icons, and concept cars arranged throughout the terraced gardens and lakeside promenade of what was once a 16th-century cardinal's home. The new Lange Cabaret Tourbillon in Honeygold This edition of the Concorso d'Eleganza Villa d'Este was of particular note for A. Lange & Söhne, as it marked the 15th year that the brand had been a partner, and the brand coincided the event with the announcement of the Honeygold Cabaret Tourbillon. TanTan is your man to learn everything you need to know about that watch here (although I will add that the return of the Cabaret, not only in Honeygold but also with a hacking tourbillon, is a real sight to behold) The connection between Lange and the Concorso runs far deeper than a hospitality tent, as CEO Wilh...
Monochrome
The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa Deste is an annual highlight on the vintage car scene calendar. Every year, the very finest cars ever made get invited to the shores of Lake Como in Italy and proudly displayed for the public to see. But that’s not all, as a specialist jury picks the Best of Show out […]
SJX Watches
Daniel Roth’s latest addition to its time-only portfolio is the Extra Plat Platinum. A familiar face in a new colourway, the Extra Plat offers the Tourbillon Platinum‘s stealthy look in a more accessible two-hand format. Powered by the DR002 in-house calibre developed by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), this regular production model brings a decidedly subtle look to the brand’s simple dress watch. Initial thoughts It’s been interesting to observe Louis Vuitton’s confident foray into haute horlogerie through the revival of Daniel Roth. Despite the corporate structure, astute collectors continue to speak of Daniel Roth in the same breath as other leading independent watchmakers. To the independent-collecting cognoscenti, the platinum Extra Plat should prove a compelling option – rooted in the early history of the independent watchmaking movement but built to meet contemporary expectations. Following Daniel Roth’s launch of the Tourbillon Souscription, the time-only, manually wound Extra Plat — “extra flat” for non-French speakers — debuted in an 18k yellow gold souscription edition followed closely by regular production models in rose gold, with and without skeletonisation. The new platinum Extra Plat rounds out the set. Combined with the matching dial with contrasting finishes, it creates a rather stealthy profile for this otherwise opulently finished dress watch. Extra Plat-inum The platinum double-ellipse case shares the wrist-friendly d...
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Hodinkee
It ain't always Black Bays and Pelagi at Tudor. At least, not all the time. Since the brand returned to the U.S. market in 2012, Tudor's success has been rooted in the broad appeal of watches like the Heritage Chronograph, the Pelagos, and, of course, the Black Bay. These are heritage-coded, conventional watches that nailed the price point, specs, and aesthetic demanded by the enthusiast market at the time. In the preceding decade, we saw that formula become a playbook as the Pelagos and Black Bay evolved into increasingly specific slices of that original concept. But what about the Tudors that fall outside of the playbook? Remember the North Flag or the Fastrider? What about the Black Bay P01? While the playbook has successfully executed moves for left-side crowns, silver cases, and channel lugs, not all of the brand's explorations into other formats have been smash hits. And it's not merely a question of having a historical footing, sure, the North Flag and Fastrider were quite modern, but the P01 was a functional deep cut from the brand's archives. As a watch brand, a music act, heck, as just about anything in our oh-so-branded world, it can be hard to operate outside of "your lane". That can include what is actually your lane or what has become your lane in the current context of a given brand's media. For 2026 at Watches and Wonders, Tudor stuck to the playbook, offering refinement, additional specs, new bracelets, and the like – except for one watch, the Monarch. A...
Time+Tide
Apologies for missing last week’s appointment; there were simply too many great watches to cover without making the selection overly long. If you’d like to catch up on everything, you can check out our full coverage of Watches and Wonders here. That said, the past seven days didn’t slow down at all. De Bethune introduced … Continued
Hodinkee
Citizen doesn't just make some of the toughest dive watches in the world, it makes some of the smartest as well.
SJX Watches
ACHI member and clockmaker John-Mikaël Flaux unveils the first clock in a new series, the Renaissance-inspired La Villa d’hOro. Fashioned as a tribute to the romantic city of Venice, the clock has an exposed movement and three dials, making it a rather practical piece of horological art. Initial thoughts Table clocks represent a niche category, even within the already niche realm of mechanical clocks. They lack the both the sobriety of large standing clocks and the convenient portability of watches - whether built for the pocket or the wrist. That said, this middle ground arguably makes them more attractive to a certain type of collector. Many modern artisanal clock producers take inspiration from science-fiction, popular culture or the automobile world. John-Mikaël Flaux went for a very different aesthetic with his La Villa d’hOro. Taking from his own experience exploring cities, the artisanal clockmaker decided to launch a small series of city and architecture inspired clocks, the Villa Tempus series. The first model, the La Villa d’hOro, takes its inspiration from the insular Italian city of Venice. Mr Flaux cites the landmark Doge Palace as the core architectural inspiration. The idea behind the La Villa d’hOro is to be reminiscent of Venice without actually emulating any specific part or building of the floating city. In many ways the La Villa d’hOro manages to capture the old world charm Venice, which has been mostly kept almost intact to this day...
SJX Watches
FVF Genève’s second model after the FVF1 skeleton tourbillon, the FVF2 Intrepido Time & Day is a more concise and accessible watch. It’s essentially a familiar formula – time (plus day) and a hand-finished manual wind movement – the FVF2 nonetheless manages to stand out thanks to brand founder Franc Vila’s eye for design. Pictured here with a black mother of pearl dial, part of a five-piece edition, the FVF2 has a pleasing asymmetry. The movement is composed of intriguing geometric forms and quirky details like the square winding click, while also being traditionally decorated with generous bevelling and black polishing. The case is an unusual “unibody” construction where the base plate and case middle are one and the same Initial thoughts The FVF2 might seem like yet another time-only watch with a fancily decorated movement, and it is just that, but not quite. Its creator, Franc Vila, is an industry veteran rather than a newcomer, and is now making a comeback after rising and falling with his original brand some two decades ago. Unlike many recent calibres that try to do more with more, the FVF2 movement is more minimalist but has a recognisable style and artful details. The calibre is characterised by geometric forms that encompass finer elements like the winding click, while also retaining a clear classical bent with the prominent going train and finishing. The treatment for the titanium base plate requires superheated gases to create an oxide layer on t...
Video
Call me stupid for not knowing but I always wondered: How does my phone know what time it is? What's the reference? How did we end up on agreeing on that reference time?? :-D
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