Hodinkee
Introducing: Serica Gets On The Shaped Watch Trend With The New Reference 1174 'Parade'
The brand that you know for their tool-oriented watches expands their lineup in a bold, surprising, attractive new way.
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Hodinkee
The brand that you know for their tool-oriented watches expands their lineup in a bold, surprising, attractive new way.
Monochrome
Seiko’s humble and fun 5 Sports series of watches are revered for their value-for-money, and often fresh combinations of colours and styles. Through numerous limited edition, the Japanese powerhouse also likes to have a little fun with the platform, resulting in some very visually impactful watches, tying in watchmaking with pop culture, movie starts or […]
SJX Watches
Having been acquired by Breitling’s private-equity owners last year, Universal Genève is scheduled to officially come back to life in 2026. But ahead of its revival in two years, the brand has unveiled a trio of one-off vintage remakes, the Polerouter SAS Tribute. Commemorating the 70th anniversary of the inaugural Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) flight across the North Pole from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, the three watches are modelled on the Polerouter, a watch created especially for the pilots of SAS. Notably, the Polerouter was designed by the late Gérald Genta when he was just 23 years old. The SAS Tribute is made up of three unique watches, one each in stainless steel, 18k white gold, and 18k red gold, with the white gold example slated to be sold at Phillips in May 2025 with proceeds going to a Geneva arts school. The remaining pair will be retained by Universal Genève as part of its archive and will not be offered for sale. Initial thoughts The Polerouter trio are essentially faithful remakes, right down to the new-old-stock cal. 1-69 micro-rotor movement inside, but with dials in modern colours and finishes. While drawing inspiration from the vintage design, they look modern. The trio isn’t particularly imaginative, though it will appeal to fans of the brand’s vintage watches. Such remakes aren’t enough to revive a Universal Genève, though the brand’s attention to its historical models will be appreciated by enthusiasts. Whether or not Universal...
Fratello
It has been a while since I bought a new watch. And by that, I mean not a pre-owned or vintage one. Just last weekend, I bought another vintage Constellation at a local auction to satisfy my hunger. One of the reasons I refrain from buying new watches these days is that prices of certain […] Visit The Fratello Watch List: RJ’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Breguet, Lange, Grand Seiko, And More to read the full article.
Time+Tide
We spoke to those on the inside of the British watch industry to discover what it's like as it looks to expand and solidify. The post The Current State of the British Watch Industry – as told by those on the inside appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Monochrome
In over 100 years of wristwatch making, almost everything has been done. And well done for most of it. Reinventing yourself in a crowded market isn’t easy, even for a young brand like Serica. For five years – its entire life – the brand has been focusing on producing (quite appealing) retro-styled instrument watches. Imagine […]
Time+Tide
Teased on Daniel Craig's this summer, we now have two new Seamaster Diver 300M models with one unexpected dial combination.The post Omega launches two new greyscale Seamaster 300M models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The Breguet Tradition collection is not only a tribute to the brand’s past, with clear historical references and movements that are designed to mimic those of antique pocket watches, but it’s also home to serious complications. And one of them is, without a doubt, the Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077. A complex watch built in a […]
Time+Tide
While 40.5mm is not large by modern standards, 37mm is a much more classic dress watch size.The post Christopher Ward’s GPHG-nominated aventurine moonphase is now available in a 37mm size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bearing an equestrian motif in typical Hermès style, the Arceau Robe Légère has a dial in paillonné enamel. Inspired by the silk scarf of the same name, the dial depicts horse composed of thin layers of delicately formed silver leaf on a dark blue enamel base. Initial thoughts Paillonné is a relatively uncommon technique in watchmaking, and even when employed in watches it’s usually traditional in style. The Arceau Robe Légère, in contrast, has a modern, slightly whimsical feel, as is typical of Hermes’ house style, which sets it apart from most executions of paillonné enamel. Granted, the equestrian motif is familiar and employed again and again, but it is very much Hermes. You wouldn’t expect anything else from a brand that began as a maker of leather saddles for horse riding. Silver horse Featuring a 38 mm white gold Arceau case with its asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs, the Arceau Robe Légère sports 71 brilliant-cut diamonds on its bezel. The dial is in a dark blue fired enamel with the paillonné technique applied on top, with its intricate detailed revealed only up close. The horse is actually composed of flowers, which are in turn made up of tiny pieces of silver foil (known as paillons) carefully assembled by hand on the dark blue enamel base. The motif is then painted over with clear enamel to set it on the base. The watch is powered by the self-winding H1912 made by Vaucher. It offers 50 hours of power reserve, and beats at 28,800 beats per hour...
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Time+Tide
Hublot doubles down on tennis goat Novak by using his polos and racquets in this new case material composite. The post The new Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic weighs less than a tennis ball appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Time and space are deeply intertwined, so it’s no surprise that images of the cosmos continue to inspire watchmakers. Since introducing its Antarctique collection of sports watches with integrated bracelets in 2020, Czapek has explored celestial themes with creations like the Antarctique Orion Nebula and the Antarctique Celestial-no longer in the brand’s current lineup. Other […]
Time+Tide
There are tonnes of myths being perpetrated about dive watches - and it doesn’t help when brands contribute to the mythologising of dive watch trends.The post Busting dive watch myths: a deep dive into deep (and shallow) diving appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The rules of the game: pick a watch with a very underrated dial, ideally from a brand that is not typically known for its dials.The post The Time+Tide team picks the most underrated watch dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Audemars Piguet put a tourbillon inside an edgy titanium watch, and Kaws put a miniature Companion. “AP” is very active in the art scene, so every once in a while, a special collaboration watch emerges. Audemars Piguet introduces the 43mm limited-edition Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion,” a series of 250 futuristic titanium watches infused with […] Visit Audemars Piguet Introduces The 43mm Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” to read the full article.
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Time+Tide
Kaws' iconic Companion character finds its way onto an AP dial in a luxurious confluence of hype and horology.The post Audemars Piguet teams up with hyped artist Kaws for a subversive Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Collective Horology, the Southern California based retailer of independent watches, has unveiled their most recent collaboration, their second with Zenith. The Zenith Defy Skyline C.X follows the El Primero C.01, Collective’s very first limited edition which was released into a very different watch landscape in 2019. Collective has changed along with the watch industry – they’ve become a full fledged retailer of independent watch brands, and have nixed the “members only” concept that the company was born with. It’s fair to say that Collective’s scope has widened considerably since 2019: their goal seems to be spreading the gospel of independent watchmaking at a huge range of price points to anyone who will listen, while continuing to hone in on storytelling in their own limited edition releases to make each of them feel special in their own way. The Skyline C.X takes the latest version of Zenith’s Defy Skyline and strips it back aesthetically to resemble an imagined version of what the watch might have been had it debuted in the 1970s when the Defy collection was beginning to take shape. The theme Collective and Zenith are playing with for this edition is that of midcentury industrial design. To that end, virtually every surface of the case (and bracelet) has been given a micro blasted finish for a sleek, industrial look, and the familiar star motif seen on most Skyline dials has been given a dramatic gradient effect, with the engraved stars appeari...
Time+Tide
The London-based second-hand dealer has just completed a second round of funding thanks to Stuart Hennell, formerly of WatchFinder.The post Subdial raises £1.5 million through Watchfinder founder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
AWAKE is a French horological brand with a very unique take on the future of watches. They are intent on using the culture and traditions of métiers d’art-or artisanal craftsmanship-to carve a new pathway apart from trends that so often get repeated time and time again in this particular industry. Prior to the Windup Windup Watch Fair, we met up with the AWAKE team, Lilian Thibault and Thibaut Sacre, on The High Line in NYC for a quick discussion on the brand, the importance of métiers d’art, their latest Sơn Mài collection, and what the future holds for AWAKE. The post Designing the Future with AWAKE appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Since Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly founded Collective Horology in 2018, the company has become known as one of the leading US-based retailers of watches from independent brands. But Collective has also collaborated with several brands on an impressive number of limited editions. For its tenth collaborative effort, Collective teamed up with Zenith again for […] Visit Introducing: The Monochromatic Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition to read the full article.
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Time+Tide
A modern take on the classic Dirty Dozen design shows how Aera has really thought about the new M1 release. The post The Aera M-1 Field and Blackbird breathe new life into the Dirty Dozen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Doxa is renowned for crafting rugged watches with a focus on functionality – tool watches, all featuring that toughness, high-water resistance or scratch-proof sapphire crystal you expect from utilitarian divers. Today, mechanical watches are as much luxury items as they are functional tools. In response to “strong demand from markets”, the brand’s compact and rather […]
Time+Tide
A smaller take on the British military-inspired field watch makes for a wonderful week on the wrist from Vertex.The post A mid-sized military watch from Vertex makes the M36 a touching tribute appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Perhaps the most recognisable travel watch in history, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master was launched in 1955, just as the world was entering the Jet Age of intercontinental travel. The inaugural GMT-Master model was the ref. 6542 that sported a distinctive bezel colour-coded in red and blue to distinguish day- and night-time. The coloured bezel would go on to become a defining feature of the GMT-Master and iconic within the wider genre of travel watches. Originally made of fragile Plexiglas, the bezel evolved into a robust anodised aluminium insert in 1959, the same year the GMT-Master became the official watch of Pan American World Airways, better known as Pan Am, then the world’s biggest airline. Rolex advertising from the 1950s celebrating the first non-stop transatlantic flight by Pan Am where both pilots wore the GMT-Master The GMT-Master earned iconic status with its functionality and technical excellence, but equal credit goes to the notable personalities individuals wearing a GMT-Master who witnessed, or even made, history. Astronaut Edgar Mitchell wore one on the Apollo 14 mission that landed on the Moon in February 1971. Several United States Air Force pilots set speed records while wearing a GMT-Master, including William J. Knight in 1967. And Val Kilmer sported one while playing Iceman in Top Gun. US Air Force pilot William J. Knight set an all-time speed record of 7,272 km/h (Mach 6.7) on October 3, 1967 in an X-15 rocket plane, while wearing a GMT-Mast...
SJX Watches
The year’s Vacheron Constantin (VC) Les Cabinotiers collection of unique timepieces explore the mythology of time across different cultures. A trio of unique pieces with miniature enamel dials, Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Japanese Culture are time-only watches with exquisite dial art, each depicting a Japanese deity. The functional simplicity of the three watches contrast with their Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin counterparts equipped with tourbillon regulators. While the tourbillon-equipped models take inspiration from Greek fables and wider East Asian culture, the present pieces are specifically focused on Japanese themes. Each of the three watches is equipped with a one-of-a-kind dial crafted with enamelling and engraving by VC’s in-house artisans. Initial thoughts VC’s endeavour bringing forth elements of time-related mythology from different cultural perspectives is laudable – and also logical given their application on a wristwatch. Moreover, the concept is executed well both in terms of style and technique in the 2024 Les Cabinotiers line-up. Les Cabinotiers (and also Metiers d’Art) demonstrate VC’s mastery of artisanal decoration. The dials in the Japanese Culture trio are achieved with several techniques in tandem, namely engraving and enamelling, but done in-house. The artful combination of technique results in a very-appealing series of unique creations. In fact, these watches are decorated with techniques similar to the incredible Les Cabinotier...
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