Time+Tide
The perpetual calendar through the years
Exploring the rich history and ingenious innovation of a staple haute horlogerie complication.The post The perpetual calendar through the years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Results for The Mercury Aurora 7 Cosmonaute
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Quill & Pad
Pneumatic Clocks: Over 100 Years Ago, Paris had Thousands of Clocks Around the City Synchronized with Blasts of Compressed Air
In Paris on the 21st of January 1910, a flash flood caused the Seine river to rise 8 meters/25 feet and devastated the city. While much of the damage was what you might expect, something unusual did occur: thousands of clocks stopped at 10:50 am. Here's why.
Monochrome
First Look – The Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge Meteorite Adds a Cosmic Dimension to the Cutting-Edge Series
With the addition of the Free Bridge models to the Bridges family in 2020, Girard-Perregaux articulated its vision, stating that “with these models, our master watchmakers have reimagined the company’s famous Bridges, first seen in the 1860s“. The goal was to create a seamless connection between tradition and modernity, tradition being the prominent movement bridges […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the UBIQ DUAL Series 01
Making judgments off photos alone is a necessity in the world of microbrands, a subset of watches often sold exclusively online. Unless you are lucky enough to attend an event such as Windup Watch Fair, purchasing a microbrand usually requires some educated guessing based on pictures and dimensions, and then praying you like the watch once it arrives at your doorstep, long after your money has left your bank account. Forming opinions without seeing a watch in the metal as I had many times before, I made up my mind weeks ago that the DUAL Series 01 from UBIQ was a watch I would love to own. With an impressive 200 meters of water resistance and a sapphire crystal, it had the specs enthusiasts such as myself want. Featuring a 39mm diameter and 47mm lug to lug case, I knew it would be comfortable. And, drawn in by the photos of captivatingly colorful dials and bezels, I was confident it would be a playful addition to my collection of mostly bland dive watches. After spending some time with the DUAL Series 01, I can confirm it is indeed a well-built, vibrant tool watch prepared to add spice to any collection. However, I am also walking away with a reminder that pictures alone fail to capture the entire story. $649 Hands-On: the UBIQ DUAL Series 01 Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 Dial Various Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Rubber or bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 39 x 47mm Thickness 11.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $649 Maybe i...
Fratello
Hands-On: The Leica ZM 11
Last October, during an event held in its hometown of Wetzlar, Germany, the camera manufacturer Leica announced the introduction of its latest watch. The Leica ZM 11 was a step in a new direction. It complements the ZM 1 and ZM 2, a pair of impressive and far more complicated watches. The ZM 11 models […] Visit Hands-On: The Leica ZM 11 to read the full article.
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I Bought the Blancpain X Swatch Scuba Fifty so you don't have to
Monochrome
Interview – Laurent Dordet, CEO of Hermès Horloger, Talks about the Impressive Growth of a Discreet Giant of the Industry
Hermès, a French powerhouse of everything luxury that is still mostly owned by the direct descendants of the founder (the Hermès dynasty and the Dumas family), is in a class of its own. The same goes when it comes to the Group’s watch division, Hermès Horloger. A discreet giant of the watch industry, Hermès has […]
Fratello
Exploring Evergreens: The Omega Seamaster 120 Ref. 168.1501
In this installment of Exploring Evergreens, I’ll take a look at the Omega Seamaster 120 ref. 168.1501. This was a mainstream model in Omega’s catalog for nearly a decade during the 1990s. Today, however, it has been all but forgotten. It’s a clean design that has stood the test of time, and it ultimately paved […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: The Omega Seamaster 120 Ref. 168.1501 to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
10 Affordable Alternatives to Iconic Watches like the Rolex Submariner and Omega Moonwatch: The Lightweight Heavyweights!
A few brands and watches stand high above the rest. They are known to almost everyone and have become icons. Watches of this stature are not cheap, however, there are alternatives out there that are as compelling in their own right for a fraction of the price.
Fratello
New Dials For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar And MB&F; LM Perpetual EVO
Sometimes, adding a dial color can shine a new light on a watch. Both H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F; have done just that. That’s why we’ll unpack both releases in one article. The first is the much-praised H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar, and the second is the stunning MB&F; LM Perpetual Evo. […] Visit New Dials For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar And MB&F; LM Perpetual EVO to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today
As we approach the leap day of February 29, the unofficial day of commemoration for perpetual calendar owners, it’s worth considering the technical advances in perpetual calendar movements of the past 20 years. The perpetual calendar is, and has always been, a staple of haute horlogerie. But for most of its history, the technology remained largely stagnant. It wasn’t until the beginning of the modern era, in the 1980s when Swiss watchmaking was regrouping after the Quartz Crisis, that a new generation of watchmakers revisited this complication in earnest. In particular, they sought to address fundamental weaknesses in the way traditional perpetual calendar designs switch from one date to the next. The quintessential perpetual calendar layout, here in the first serially-produced perpetual calendar wristwatch with a leap year indicator, the Audemars Piguet ref. 5516, which was produced in the late 1950s One of the more recent – and most notable – efforts at reimagining the complication came from Stephen McDonnell, who developed the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual. According to Mr McDonnell, the traditional approach to the perpetual calendar was a flawed premise. “For decades in the Swiss watch industry, and even until the present day, it has been accepted and expected that [perpetual calendar] watches would often be damaged by owners while trying to correct them,” explains Mr McDonnell, “This was seen simply as an unavoidable factor of [perpetual calendar] owner...
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It's Over: The Rolex Watch Boom is Done
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the ARDIO Caribe
ARDIO is an independent U.S. brand based out of Pennsylvania and founded by Ron Oley. The Caribe is the brand’s first watch and is the product of over three years of design effort. ARDIO keeps a fairly quiet online presence, with their main website and an Instagram page being the most accessible sources of information for prospective buyers. According to Oley, each component of the Caribe is designed from scratch and the watches are assembled in small batches. This particular run is capped at 300 pieces per colorway with each watch triple-checked by three separate parties and hand-regulated before shipping. There are five dial colors offered at this time: light blue, gauge brass, isotope green, gilded black, and sunrise orange. I had the opportunity to review the blue and brass options. My first impressions of the watch were very positive. I had initial concerns about how it would wear on my wrist, since it looked sizable in the travel case it came in and felt fairly hefty before trying it on. Case diameters of 40mm can wear a myriad of ways depending on other factors – it seems to be a size where the number on paper doesn’t give the wearer the full picture of the fit. However, the Caribe really feels like it wears true to size due to its well-proportioned lugs and slim bezel. Part of the illusion of its overall dimensions can likely be attributed to its height: a double domed sapphire crystal adds two millimeters to its vertical presence, but also offers a nice effe...
Quill & Pad
4 Off-The-Beaten-Track Dress Watches from Panerai, Nomos, Hublot, and Grand Seiko
The term ‘dress watch’ is as ambivalent as 'ultra-thin.' There are no fixed parameters to guide whether a watch is a dress watch or not so Martin Green has made his own definition and highlights 4 dress watches that you might not have considered.
Monochrome
Spotted – Rolex, Omega, G-Shock… The Watches of “Sand Job”, the Penultimate Episode of The Grand Tour
It’s been a while since we last saw Clarkson, Hammond and May, whether on screen or here, at MONOCHROME. A few days ago, Amazon Studios unveiled the second to last episode of the three middle-aged men’s car show, The Grand Tour. Combining this and the fact that Top Gear has been taken off air by […]
Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Mixes the Contemporary and the Classic with the new Free Bridge Meteorite
I don’t think I would be wrong in saying that Girard-Perregaux doesn’t get much attention these days. The brand seems to pop up on the radar every so often, but - at least in the circles of obsessives I travel in - their name seems to resist coming up in discussion, and I have only very rarely seen modern GPs in the wild. That’s a shame because Girard-Perregaux continues to put out fantastic pieces and the release of the Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge Meteorite is just the latest example of how GP has continued to strike a rare balance between history and modernity. Girard-Perregaux has been around for a very long time, with its lineage (though not its name) reaching back as far as 1791. Less than a century later, Constant Girard, who would marry Marie Perregaux leading us to the now-familiar name, had developed what would become the hallmark of the brand; a symmetrical three-bridge design that would eventually lead to the creation of La Esmerelda in 1889. That pocket watch featured three beautifully finished gold bridges and was recognized with a gold medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition. Despite its distinctly 21st century look, the Bridge collection, to which the Free Bridge Meteorite belongs, is inspired by and pulls from that history - especially by that very special 19th century watch and those three gold bridges. Where La Esmerelda showed off its bridges thanks to a hunter caseback, the Free Bridge Meteorite wears its bridge (it only sports one of the ...
Fratello
The February 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Caliber 3861
In 2019, Omega introduced the hand-wound caliber 3861 in both Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary editions. Then, in 2020, the brand used it as the movement for the Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award edition with an automaton on the case back. One year later, Omega introduced an update of the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, featuring a […] Visit The February 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Caliber 3861 to read the full article.
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A Weird & Fun Dive Style Watch - The Lima Meca Revolt - Interchangeable Bezel Automatic 200m WR
Monochrome
First Look – The New Louis Erard Excellence Petite Seconde Guilloché
Louis Erard continues its path onwards and upwards with yet another artistic iteration of its Excellence Petite Seconde. A flagship model at Louis Erard since 2020, this model is an attractive dress watch with a small seconds counter available in 39mm and 42mm cases. The uncluttered dial of the Petite Second has been treated to […]
Time+Tide
Advice for the non-watch-loving partner of any watch nerd
Are you the struggling partner of a watch enthusiasts? Adam's words may offer some comfort and advice.The post Advice for the non-watch-loving partner of any watch nerd appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The High-Frequency Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon In Steel Or Ceramic
What if you like the looks of the angular Zenith Defy Skyline with its 12-sided bezel, but the running 1/10th-of-a-second indicator on the dial makes you nervous? The Defy Skyline Tourbillon with its 60-second tourbillon at 6 o’clock is the way to go. Yes, it’s a pricey alternative, but before we dismiss this Defy on […] Visit Introducing: The High-Frequency Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon In Steel Or Ceramic to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Redesigned Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Skeleton
Pulling out all the stops before Watches & Wonders 2024, watchmaker Arnold & Son presents two skeletonised models powered by one of the world’s thinnest flying tourbillon movements, now dubbed Ultrathin Tourbillon Skeleton. While these new models have been treated to some design tweaks and a new tourbillon carriage, these editions of the Ultrathin Flying […]
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Opportunities For The Watch Industry
In this week’s episode of Fratello On Air, we ponder what’s wrong with the watch industry. Before you jump to conclusions, we’re not upset. We have a wish list and think that certain areas within this sector could use further thoughts or updates. Get ready for a lengthy episode! So, what’s wrong with the watch […] Visit Fratello On Air: Opportunities For The Watch Industry to read the full article.
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The Rise of Budget GMT Watches - Aquatico Seastar GMT Review
SJX Watches
Tissot Revives the PR516 Chronograph with a Hand-Wind Movement
Tissot has enjoyed a streak of appealingly affordable vintage-inspired models ranging from the PRX Digital to the distinctive Sideral. Now, the brand has turned to a sports chronograph from the archives, the PR516 Chronograph. Drawing inspiration from the 1968 model, the PR516 has been given an update with a larger case, sapphire-covered bezel, and a manual-wind Valjoux movement. Initial thoughts Like the Heuer Carrera and Rolex Daytona, the PR516 Chronograph is a motorsports racing chronograph of the 1960s and 1970s. But unlike its famous, and perhaps iconic, counterparts, the PR516 is hardly known. Despite being under the radar, the original does have a recognisable and appealing 1970s style. That’s been reworked slightly to transform it into the new PR516. The watch isn’t a replica of the original, because it has modern dimensions. In fact, it is chunky and quite thick, dimensions arguably suitable for a modern sports watch. The dial has also been tweaked slightly and now has less text, while the registers are cleaner. For now, the new dial is available only in the same colour as the original, black, though variants are likely if this sells well. With a price tag of US$1,850, the PR516 Chronograph is a value proposition. This is apparent when it’s compared with offerings from micro-brands like as Farer and Excelsior Park, which rely on comparable movements (typically Sellita) but cost a third more. A modern facelift The PR516 is the latest addition to Tissot’s...
Time+Tide
Time to tee off streetwear style with the TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 Malbon Golf Edition
Think golf is just a mid-life crisis sport for folks with too much cash? TAG Heuer and Malbon colourfully disagree.The post Time to tee off streetwear style with the TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 Malbon Golf Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The 25 Most Eye-Catching Watch Dial Options On the Market Today
Watch lovers may be settling into a modern Golden Era of watch dial making, with many brands over the past several ramping up the creativity - experimenting with bolder colors, innovative layouts and textures, and even an array of unconventional materials and processes in their dials' production. This is happening from Kickstarter brands all the way to the top of the watch industry food chain - with independent brands as well as those owned by large luxury conglomerates making a concerted effort to offer watch dial options that set their timepieces apart. We've compiled a list - which many will, of course, find far from exhaustive - of some of our favorite watch dials that you can find on current models from an array of brands. Oris Big Crown Pointer Date - Maroon Dial The Big Crown Pointer Date is one of Oris's most well-established signature pieces and it has debuted in some very nontraditional colorways of late, most of which have been very well received. The dial that stands out from our perspective is this maroon version which is rich, warm and luxurious and provides a nice background for the off-white print and lume-treated cathedral hands. Maroon, sometime referred to as burgundy, is a color that has popped up on other brands (like the Rado watch a bit further down the list), and the execution on this Oris watch is among the best we’ve seen; it's also a color that is versatile enough to wear daily. Specifications: Price: $1750-$1950, Cas...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II, a Rare Combination of Worldtime and Alarm Functions
Operating out of La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, for several years now, the brand Edouard Koehn carries four distinct collections. Of particular interest is the model introduced in 2021 as part of the World Heritage line, blending two practical complications: world time and alarm functions. While several mechanical watches offer combinations of an alarm with a GMT […]
Hodinkee
This Week In The Shop: Five Of Our Favorite Watches Under $3,000
Running the gamut from a watch-newbie-friendly Hamilton to an eco-conscious Oris.
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