Hodinkee
Introducing: Grand Seiko's New Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275 Has A Dial That Changes Colors With The Light (Live Pics)
The lion's mane pattern of the dial is something that you have to see to truly appreciate.
Results for Marine Chronometer & The Longitude Problem
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Introducing: The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Gets Three Killer New Dial Colors – Including One Called 'Dune' (Live Pics)
Inspired by various times of day, these dials infuse new life into the classic line.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Heuer 7753SN-Inspired TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox 'Panda' (With A Steel Bracelet!)
The inspiration continues to flow into the Glassbox format with this highly legible chrono for W&W; 2024.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Patek Philippe 5236P-010 In-Line Perpetual Calendar, Now With Salmon Dial
A very Patek watch, with a new dial, hits all the right notes for the old school lovers of the brand.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph
TAG Heuer’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2024 is the Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph, the brand’s first-ever mechanical split-seconds chronograph wristwatch. Initially launched as a piece unique for the postponed 2023 edition of Only Watch, the Monaco Split Seconds now enters regular production in red and blue liveries. Titanium inside and out with an integrated movement developed by Vaucher – the movement bridges and plates are titanium – the Monaco Split Seconds is a premium product with a premium price that puts the brand in the haute horlogerie segment, which also communicates a mixed message given the brand’s focus on affordable chronographs. Initial thoughts While sports timekeeping is core to TAG Heuer’s DNA, the brand’s only wrist-worn split seconds chronographs to date were of the quartz and digital variety. And given the delayed sale of the Only Watch example, the Monaco Split Seconds will be TAG Heuer’s first mechanical split-seconds chronograph sold publicly, enhancing the collector appeal. One of the most iconic square watches in history – and probably the only recognisable sports chronograph with a form case – the Monaco has proven adaptable to both retro and futuristic designs over the years; the Split Seconds is of course the latter. While I find the overall styling a bit over the top, especially the X-shaped braces that form part of the dial, I can’t help but admire many of the details, such as the stepped box sapphire crysta...
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Building a 4-Watch Collection On the Spot (at my AD)
Monochrome
First Look – IWC Glimpses Eternity with its Secular Calendar, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar (incl. Video)
IWC’s Portugieser Eternal Calendar is the undisputed calendar masterpiece of the Schaffhausen-based brand for Watches and Wonders 2024. A colossal technical milestone, the Eternal Calendar marks the brand’s first secular perpetual calendar. Unlike a perpetual calendar that will need a correction in 2100, the Eternal Calendar is fitted with a 400-year gear that overrides the […]
Fratello
Cartier Introduces The Rewind And Dual Time Versions Of Its Beloved Santos
Whether it’s the more elegant and classy Santos-Dumont or the sportier Santos de Cartier, Cartier’s Santos collection continues to be immensely popular. No wonder the French Maison adds a few new references to the lineup every year. Understandably, 2024 is no exception, and there are even a few surprise appearances here. What to think of […] Visit Cartier Introduces The Rewind And Dual Time Versions Of Its Beloved Santos to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad - Reinventing Hand-Crafted Avant-Garde
If you’re new to watches and have noticed the big wave of retro love sweeping the world, the Ulysse Nardin Freak will surely shock your system. And it will stun you even more if you are not privy to the fact that this is an ever-evolving creation that is already over 20 years old. That’s […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad - Reinventing Hand-Crafted Avant-Garde to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Chronograph
Amidst the plethora of sports watches with integrated bracelets, the Zenith Defy Skyline stands out for its uncluttered design and relative affordability. Now the lineup is joined by the Defy Skyline Chronograph. The chronograph maintains many of the signature features of the existing models, such as its octagonal case and star-patterned dial. Debuting in three dial colours, Defy chronograph is amongst Zenith’s sportier offerings. Like other recent launches, it is powered by the second-generation El Primero calibre. Initial thoughts The Defy Skyline Chronograph is another option for an enthusiasts seeking a sports chronograph with a contemporary design and integrated bracelet. There are admittedly many, many options in this category, but the Defy chronograph is one of the value-minded offerings. At CHF11,900, the Defy chronograph with its in-house movement is competitively priced compared to other offerings in the sports watch market. The brand has opted for a conservative design while retaining a modern edge. Though the overall design is familiar, it has incorporates a few unusual details, including a polygonal flange around the dial. The watch is being launched in only three colours, all simple, easy shades that are well suited to the design, though not exciting. With the limited colours in mind, some might want to wait for subsequent releases that may adopt the colours found in its time-only counterpart. Zenith’s latest addition The Defy chronograph joins Zenith’...
Worn & Wound
The Hublot MP-11 Gets a New “Water Blue” Sapphire Treatment
Watches & Wonders 2024 is here, and with it comes another addition to Hublot’s expanding lineup of colorful sapphire-cased watches. These vibrantly hued sapphire cases have become a bit of a staple for Hublot in the last few years, and I am here for it. As someone whose preferences typically skew towards the sensible and sedate, you might be surprised to learn that, in staunch defiance of my typical taste and common sense, Hublot’s experiments have produced some of my favorite recent watches. I’m a big believer in fun watches and, for all the flack that gets sent Hublot’s way, it’s impossible to deny the smile that creeps across your face when you strap on a giant purple sapphire tourbillon. Today’s addition to the brightly colored lineup is a new limited version of the Big Bang MP-11. The MP-11 was first introduced six years ago (back when Baselworld was still a thing) and is no stranger to transparency. Over the years, the MP-11 has seen releases in clear sapphire, dark blue sapphire, and green SAXEM. This new release brings a different character to the familiar piece, with a brand new icy glacier blue sapphire case and matching rubber strap, complemented by titanium hardware, bezel screws, and crown. The new color, which Hublot is calling ‘Water Blue Sapphire’ and releasing in a limited edition of just 50, is the result of a new chemical formula, and results in a color that seems to change based on the light around the watch from a pale blue to an ocean-...
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I FIXED the recessed buton from HELL on my G-Shock square!!
Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces a Long Awaited Chronograph to the Defy Skyline Collection
Zenith returns to the Defy collection this year at Watches & Wonders with the introduction of a Defy Skyline Chronograph. This is a version of the next-gen Defy that Zenith fans have been anticipating since the collection’s debut, given the long line of chronographs that have populated Defy collections past and present. The new Defy Skyline Chronograph follows iterations of the Skyline that have played with materials and skeletonization, so it seems possible (even likely) that eventually the chronograph will get similar treatment. For now, we have a trio of references in stainless steel that feel like a logical extension of the Defy Skyline series. The 42mm case is effectively unchanged from previous skylines, and is Zenith’s contemporary take on the original 8-sided Defy case first seen in the late 1960s. The Defy, as opposed to the Chronomaster and Pilot lines, has always been Zenith’s playground for the avant-garde and the unusual, and the highly sculptural case design of this watch, that traces a lineage back to the original, underscores the very nature of what the Defy is. Dial options at launch include metallic black, blue, and silver, and feature the signature star pattern that has been present in the Skyline from the beginning. The subdials are oversized and overlap just slightly (perhaps not as much as on a Chronomaster) and are color matched to the main dial, but do not feature the Skyline stars. As with most other watches running on El Primero movement...
SJX Watches
The Parmigiani Tonda PF Does Away with the Date
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Parmigiani Fleurier is launching the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date, a concise sports watch clearly catered to those who want just two hands. Featuring a “Golden Siena” (or “salmon”) dial in its inaugural guise, the new Tonda PF barely deviates from the design of the original released in 2021, retaining the same case, proportions, and movement, but eliminates the date. Initial thoughts Among the sports watches launched during the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch fad, the Tonda PF stood out for its unique aesthetics that are neither boring nor flashy. While many of its competitors were often obvious derivatives of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Tonda PF was more original and managed to retain some of the traditional design codes of Parmigiani’s more formal watches. From a distance, it is challenging to tell the difference between the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date and the original. In fact, the only real difference lies in the dial design and colour. Although the differences are minimal, the salmon dial with a no-date layout offers a more refined aesthetic that will appeal to purists. At CHF23,500, the watch is priced the same as the date version and like it, is a decent-enough value proposition. Though it seems expensive when compared to more affordable alternatives like the Louis Vuitton Tambour or Moser Streamliner, the Tonda PF is more affordable than the Royal Oak or a Nautilus (which are mostly unobtaina...
Worn & Wound
Oris Updates the Aquis Date Across Three Case Sizes with Many Small Enhancements for a More Refined Experience
This year at Watches & Wonders, Oris finds itself focusing primarily on a single collection: the Aquis. For years, the Aquis has carried the torch as the brand’s flagship modern sports watch. A capable diver with an integrated bracelet (it had one before they were cool), the Aquis has been made in a dizzying variety of case sizes and dial variants over the years, with complicated models, limited editions, and even diamonds finding their way to the line. But over all that time, the Aquis itself has never really had a proper reset. That changes this year, with a new, more refined Aquis Date that seeks to improve on the old version in all the ways watch collectors care about. The new Aquis is made of a number of subtle changes that add up to a noticeable, if incremental, improvement. This is not a radical rethinking of the Aquis, but feels more like an admission from Oris that certain elements of the tried and true design could be tweaked for a better overall experience. It’s an approach, frankly, that we think more brands should take. When something is generally pretty good, it makes no sense to kill it and start from scratch. Success over a long period means little iterative changes that make your product better as performance expectations shift, and Oris seems to embrace that. Of the changes made to the new Aquis, the most important is likely the small tweaks to the case. Oris has redefined the Aquis silhouette by making everything a little more balanced, with lugs t...
Fratello
The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph
You might have to look twice, but you’re looking at the updated IWC Portugieser Automatic 42. These models have a completely re-engineered case construction with a more slender side profile. The bezel-less watches feature double-domed box-style glass sapphire crystals for unobstructed views of the sunburst dials or the versions finished with 15 layers of transparent […] Visit The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Pebble Tigre
Cartier’s suite of Animal Jewellery watches unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2024 includes the striking Pebble “Tigre”. Described by its maker as inspired by “an imaginary encounter between zebra and crocodile that… is both graphic and organic”, the watch is essentially a Pebble with a double-layer bezel decorated in lacquer and precious stones. Watch aficionados will be disappointed that it is a traditional jewellery watch – more jewellery than watch – and the movement inside is quartz. Initial thoughts Thematically, the new Pebble is similar to the Crash Tigre with its abstract, animal-patterned cased. Though it’s in keeping with Cartier’s tradition of animal-inspired jewellery watches, the new Pebble is nonetheless surprising since it’s a striking departure from the traditional Pebble. The watch is slightly larger than the conventional Pebble, particularly in terms of thickness, but it’s still relatively compact. But it has instant presence thanks to the extravagant decoration. It’s unfortunately that the movement is quartz, but that is typical for most of Cartier’s high jewellery watches. This will limit its appeal for mechanical watch enthusiasts, but fans of Cartier’s jewelled form watches will appreciate the design and execution. The Cartier Crash Tigre Wild things The Animal Jewellery collection of 2024 is made up of watches modelled on animals that are a recurring theme in Cartier jewellery, namely panthers, crocodiles, and tigers. Most ...
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The Studio Underd0g Field is a cheeky piece of wrist candy
SJX Watches
Lange Marks the Datograph’s 25th Anniversary in White Gold and Blue
A. Lange & Söhne is marking 25 years of its landmark chronograph of 1999 with the Datograph Up/Down “25th Anniversary”, a limited edition that’s a subtle but significant variation of the familiar model. The anniversary Datograph sports a dark blue dial matched with a white gold case that contains the much loved L951.6 movement. Limited to 125 pieces, the new model joins the regular production versions in platinum and pink gold (both with black dials) that remain in the catalogue. And it’s the more affordable of the anniversary editions, with the flagship being the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. Initial thoughts While the anniversary Datograph doesn’t seem like much on the face of it, the colour and material is fairly unique for the model. The Datograph has only ever been offered in platinum, pink or yellow gold, and never before with a blue dial (except on one occasion). Though left unstated in the official announcement, the blue dial is clearly a reference to a unique example of the first-generation Datograph that had a blue dial, something that fans of the brand will appreciate. Moreover, the Datograph is rarely iterated as a limited edition. This is only the third Datograph limited edition (following the Datograph Lumen of 2019), leaving aside gem-set models. Consequently, there’s a lot to like about this, with a big caveat. As comparably-priced alternative to the regular production models, this is a compelling proposition. However, ...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar
Perhaps the complication most associated with IWC, the perpetual calendar with its distinctive four-digit year display was introduced in 1985 in the Da Vinci. Today IWC takes the “perpetual” concept to its maximum with the Portugieser Eternal Calendar that boasts a supercharged perpetual calendar, otherwise known as a secular calendar, requiring no adjustment for a thousand years. In addition, it is equipped with a moon phase of unprecedented accuracy – a day in 45 million years. Initial thoughts Even though it appears similar to the standard Portugieser Perpetual Calendar – though it is slightly thicker and wider – the Eternal Calendar is an appealing and note-worthy proposition in terms of its technical merits. The rare complication, however, comes at preposterously steep price. Discreetly dressed in the classic Portugieser case, but the Eternal Calendar reveals a modern twist in the form of the glass dial that shows off the calendar works underneath. To accomplish that, the movement employs a sapphire bridge in the calendar module, marking the first time IWC is using the material as a structural element in a calibre. The extensive use of sapphire hints at the impressive technicality of the movement, giving a sense of tangibility to the mechanics within. And the mechanics are certainly worth admiring. An “eternal” or secular calendar complication is appealing, for both the mechanical inclined and even the plain romantic who wants something that will go on...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”
For the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, A. Lange & Söhne is celebrating in a big way with the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. Given the milestone anniversary, it’s fitting to see the most technically exceptional Datograph delivered in the appealing Honeygold “Lumen” format first seen in 2021 with the Zeitwerk. This is the ultimate anniversary Datograph, with a price to match. The 25th anniversary, however, is also being marked with the more affordable Datograph Up/Down in white gold. Initial thoughts It’s hard to overstate the impact that the original Datograph had on fine watchmaking – specifically the construction of high-end chronograph movements – since its debut in 1999. Much has been written about this moment, but in short this is an anniversary worth celebrating. As good as the “Lumen” is, and it’s nearly faultless, I expected more from Lange. At the end of the day it’s a combination of known elements, so the end result is not groundbreaking. That said, there isn’t much I’d change. The underlying L951 calibre remains best-in-class after a quarter of a century, and the tourbillon version, which has now been in production for nine years, is executed masterfully. Given the degree of complication and Lange’s proclivity for making big, sturdy watches, the proportions are actually not that bad. While known to be a bit top heavy, the overall dimensions are not outside the norm, especially for a watch of this complexit...
SJX Watches
A Handy Guide to the Refreshed IWC Portugieser Collection
For IWC, 2024 is the year of the Portugieser. The collection receives a full refresh that covers the Portugieser Automatic 40, Portugieser Automatic 42 (previously known as the 7 Days), Portugieser Chronograph, and Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44. In addition, IWC has introduced an all-new model, the Portugieser Hand Wound Tourbillon Day & Night with a flying (and hacking) tourbillon. The standout debut, however, is without question the Portugieser Eternal Calendar – which we cover in a separate story. With the facelift, IWC has refined its core collection with subtle nips and tucks, including slimmer cases, while retaining the familiar design. The revamp includes new liveries including metallic finish dials in baby blue and champagne. The champagne finish, known as “Dune” Initial thoughts I’ve always enjoyed the aesthetic of the Portugieser collection, which is perhaps the only collection of dress watches of any brand where the (over)sizing is a feature rather than a drawback. The new collection is no exception; each piece is attractive and several models have received thoughtful technical upgrades, including an escapement with enhanced magnetism resistance. And the dials are not merely new colours, but sport detailed finishing and thoughtful details. Of course, there’s little in the way of true novelty in the collection outside of the Eternal Calendar that is a rare complication executed smartly but for an hard-to-believe six-figure price. Even the Tourbillo...
Time+Tide
Casually showing off with the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph (live pics)
The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph collection finally brings the El Primero into a casual yet playful setting.The post Casually showing off with the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Watches In The Wild | Paris, Ep. 3: The Fashion And Watch Communities
Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko Starry Night SBGW314 puts some sparkle in their history
Tributing the very first Grand Seiko, the brand introduces a star-studded, manual-winding limited edition.The post The Grand Seiko Starry Night SBGW314 puts some sparkle in their history appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko SLGH021 debuts a new Genbi Valley-inspired dial pattern in luscious light green
The new Grand Seiko SLGH021 “Genbi Valley” Limited Edition introduces a light green dial with a brand-spanking new dial pattern.The post The Grand Seiko SLGH021 debuts a new Genbi Valley-inspired dial pattern in luscious light green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch
The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is the thinnest tourbillon watch in the world.The post The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Classically Elegant Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Annual Calendar
After several iterations of its integrated sporty-chic watches, the Sport Auto and the Grand Sport Tourbillon, independent watchmaker Laurent Ferrier goes back to his roots. Known for the sublime elegance and smoothness of his creations, something he perfected during his long career at Patek, Laurent Ferrier introduces two highly elegant new models from its classic […]
Quill & Pad
New Release : Absolutely Stunning Louis Moinet ‘Around the World in Eight Days’ Unique Piece Collection
Art is the expression or application of human creative skill and imagination. Usually, the artist has a message that they hope that their art conveys, but sometimes the art (if it’s good enough) overwhelms the intended message. Ian Skellern experienced that with the Louis Moinet ‘Around the World in Eight Days’ Unique Piece collection.
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