Deployant
Tech details: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’art Tribute to the Quest of Time
We attended the 270th Anniversary of Vacheron Constantin and the launch of the object La Quête du Temps as well as the wristwatch Métiers d’art Tribute
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Deployant
We attended the 270th Anniversary of Vacheron Constantin and the launch of the object La Quête du Temps as well as the wristwatch Métiers d’art Tribute
Worn & Wound
Stone dials, as we’re all aware, have been having a moment over these last couple of years. Time, I suppose, will tell if the prevalence of stone dials across more affordable price ranges is a trend, or just a new part of the watch landscape that we’ll all just accept and live with, like green dials, or carbon cases. With the renewed popularity of this inherently 1970s/80s inspired design cue, it was really only a matter of time before we saw the return of a watch that takes the use of stone to a different level entirely. The Tissot Rock Watch, an artifact of the 1980s if ever there was one, is back, albeit in a limited edition that might be tough to acquire depending on your geography (more on that in a bit). First, a little background on the Rock Watch. Launched in 1985, Tissot claims that the Rock Watch was the first ever watch with a case and dial made entirely from granite procured from the Swiss Alps. I’ll admit here that I haven’t done a ton of scholarly research on the topic, but I’m willing to take Tissot at face value here simply because granite is a particularly difficult material to work with, requiring highly specific machines and tooling. It’s a watch that doesn’t make a ton of practical sense from a production standpoint, but naturally was quite popular in the mid 80s and eventually spawned an entire collection for Tissot that featured a huge variety of exotic stones. Original Rock Watches from the 1980s The new version of the Rock Watch rema...
Monochrome
Now in the hands of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, alongside Daniel Roth, watchmaking brand Gérald Genta came back on the scene last year with one of the boldest and least expected creations, the Gentissima Oursin collection. A watch paying tribute to the man’s bold designs, it will be joined this year by a […]
Monochrome
Bianchet is a relatively young high-end brand founded by Rodolfo and Emmanuelle Festa-Bianchet, and based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Since 2021, the brand has been offering modern tonneau-shaped watches powered by architectural openworked tourbillon movements. Early 2025 marked the launch of an important model for the brand, the UltraFino, its first ultra-thin model, its first […]
SJX Watches
Appointed to the top job at Breguet just under a year ago, Gregory Kissling trained as a movement constructor and spent most of his career leading Omega’s product development. A native of the Vallee de Joux, Mr Kissling is now in charge of one of the most revered names in watchmaking, which this year celebrates its 250th year. Aided by his background in product and long tenure at Swatch Group, the parent of Breguet, Mr Kissling is off to a running start. He has already made his mark with anniversary editions like the Classic Souscription, a simple but smart creation I rate highly, and holds ambitions to elevate the brand to where it should be. He was recently in Singapore to open Breguet’s new boutique in Ion Orchard, a mall on the city’s premier shopping street, and I got my first face-to-face with him since he assumed the role. We discussed his plans for the brand founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet, ranging from an increased emphasis on artisanal craft, to Breguet design, and even one-off or custom watches. The interview was edited for length and clarity. SJX: You have one of the most interesting and exciting jobs in the Swiss watch industry; you have taken over one of its greatest brands. Gregory Kissling (GK): It is a fantastic brand and every day I learn something new [about its history]. The heritage and legacy are immense. And also the fact that Breguet has a true manufacture – we produce everything in house but also thanks to the sister company of Swatch Grou...
Monochrome
Founded by Georges Eberhard in 1887 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Eberhard & Co. had established itself as a purveyor of innovative, technically advanced chronographs by 1919. Although the independent brand is well-known among Italian collectors, and its Chrono 4 model, with four separate counters inspired by the dashboard of race cars, might resonate with some readers, […]
Monochrome
When it was launched last year, MING’s 37.02 Minimalist represented several firsts for Ming Thein’s independent Malaysian brand. For starters, it was the brand’s first watch made at MING’s facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Ironically, though, the watch could not bear the “Swiss Made” label because the design and engineering were executed in Kuala Lumpur. […]
Fratello
On June 26th, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) celebrated its 20th anniversary in Geneva. The non-profit organization started the celebrations with a press conference at the lakeside Ritz-Carlton Hotel in Geneva. To honor the FHH’s founding members, Audemars Piguet CEO Ilaria Resta, Girard-Perregaux Chairman and CEO Patrick Pruniaux, and Cartier Chairman of Culture […] Visit Are You Into Watches Or Watchmaking? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The world of Swiss watchmaking is a small one; everyone seems to know everyone. This is especially true among the exclusive ranks of enamellers. In total, there are about 120 practicing enamellers in Switzerland, largely concentrated in Geneva, which has been a leading hub for fine enamelling for more the 400 years. Of these, four artisans have recently taken up residence at Émailleurs de la Cité (EC) in Geneva’s Old Town. A newly established enamel workshop founded by Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia and Florent Olivier Martin, EC crafts a small number of grand feu enamel dials annually for Mr Rexhepi’s own watches and for select clients like Biver. Though recently opened, the workshop has the feel of a mature and highly organised operation, benefiting from the obvious experience of the staff – Mr Martin was formerly the production director at the respected dial specialist Olivier Vaucher – and the attention to detail for which Mr Rexhepi is known. The enamel workshop is a fitting addition to his growing empire, and is conveniently located just steps away from Akrivia’s watchmaking atelier on Grand-Rue, the picturesque cobblestone thoroughfare that runs through the Old Town. The hand-engraved gratté pattern is applied personally by Mr Rexhepi. The art of enamel Brands like Patek Philippe consider enamel a “rare handcraft”, and for good reason. While industrial groups like the Swatch Group seem to have largely mastered the production of quality enamel dials at (v...
Monochrome
I have known Jérôme Lambert for longer than I want to admit. The man started his watchmaking career right there, at La Grande Maison, or the Watchmaker of Watchmakers. Lambert has already been CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre from 2002 to 2013, and he left his mark on the brand. Strong collections, focus on complications and high-end […]
Fratello
The third time that Dr. Woo, LA-based tattoo artist to the stars, and Genevan watchmaker Roger Dubuis collaborate, it takes on a galactic peace mission. The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III shows design elements only found in the unimaginable depths of space. After traveling galaxies yet unknown to humankind, the creative expedition […] Visit Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III - Prepare Yourself For An Imaginary Intergalactic Trip to read the full article.
Fratello
Last year, Citizen debuted a series of Super Titanium chronographs with integrated bracelets. The watches were received well for their looks and affordability. Since then, the brand has formally changed the names of these chronographs to Zenshin Senkei. Four more references now join the collection, but as we’ll see, new colors are only a part […] Visit Introducing: The Edgy New Citizen Zenshin Senkei Chronographs to read the full article.
Monochrome
For a retro-styled chronograph, the beauty lies in mechanical and historical details. With the new Chronographe Télémètre, Angelus again reaches into its storied archives to recreate the past and distil its essence into a remarkably fresh and undeniably refined timepiece. The latest addition to the La Fabrique collection, the Chronographe Télémètre debuts in three variations: […]
Monochrome
If you look at the current collection of Omega, you’ll see that almost everything there is based on iconic designs and watches that have left a strong mark on watchmaking. The Seamaster, the Constellation and, of course, the Speedmaster, to name the most important ones. You’ll also see that two of these watches formed part […]
Fratello
Maybe you can’t call it a comeback - thanks, LL Cool J - but in a way, Corum is making a comeback. Founded in 1955 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand recently announced a return to Swiss ownership. It was part of the Hong Kong-based Citychamp Watch & Jewellery Group for 12 years. But following a […] Visit Corum Is Making A Swiss-Owned Comeback - What Can We Expect? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
When is a watch more than a watch? It honestly sounds like a pretty dumb question, but it’s a question that I just asked myself when writing about the Cedric Bellon CB01 – a grade 5 titanium watch that’s just as much a watch as it is a case study in sustainability. I’ll admit, when I first laid eyes on the watch, I thought it looked very raw, almost unfinished. Upon closer inspection and a deeper dive into the brand itself, it started to click. The CB01 is a joint partnership between Watch Angels (a crowd funding platform), Ace Jewelers (an Amsterdam-based retailer) and Cedric Bellon (a watch designer) – by their powers combined, this watch is good for the planet! Captain Planet jokes aside, the CB01 is a 40mm titanium watch that features a mix of finishing techniques, an interesting movement, and very wrist-friendly dimensions. Let’s dig in and take a closer look at this collaboration that aims to bring sustainability to your wrist in a big way. Case Measuring in at 40mm wide by 47mm lug-to-lug, the CB01 is a nice fit for my 6.75” wrist. The case is crafted from repurposed titanium. At first, I thought that repurposed was synonymous with recycled, but it’s not. The core belief behind this watch design is that when possible, materials from other productions will be used for this project. So maybe there was too much material ordered for another project that can be used here, having the watch achieve a higher “circularity score”. The principle behind ci...
Monochrome
Following the acclaimed Carpe Diem and Opera Automata, the third chapter from La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton series brings the Bushido code to life – mechanically and artistically – through a hypnotic automaton performance. With the Tambour Bushido Automata, Louis Vuitton ventures into the world of ancient Japan, remembering the discipline, honour, and artistry […]
Monochrome
Last month, the Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025 fair was the occasion for us, and all watch enthusiasts, to discover the new collections of approximately 60 brands. As the successor to the SIHH, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, most exhibiting brands are top-tier segment players. As fascinating as it is, there was not […]
Fratello
Regarding watchmaking, Louis Vuitton is best known for its Tambour models. These integrated bracelet models were reinvented in 2023 and capitalized on the 2011 purchase of La Fabrique du Temps. While some hardcore watch fans have taken time to accept the brand as a watchmaker, it’s becoming harder to ignore the products. Now, Louis Vuitton […] Visit Introducing: Louis Vuitton High Watchmaking Novelties to read the full article.
Hodinkee
A special presentation for JLC's most famed model, the Reverso, will be on display in NYC from May 1-10 and LA from May 17-June 3.
SJX Watches
After voyages through the cultures of Europe, China, and Japan, Louis Vuitton sets course beyond the terrestrial realm. The Tambour Taiko Galactique is a minute repeater with automata depicting an astronaut on the Moon. With its newest creation, Louis Vuitton once again marries artisanal decoration with high-end mechanics – all accomplished in-house at its manufacture in Geneva, La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Initial thoughts For several years now, Louis Vuitton has endeavoured to preserve and perpetuate traditional watchmaking and related crafts. From the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives to its collaborations with independent watchmakers, and the massive, nine-figure investment in its Geneva manufactures and the vertical integration of metiers d’art, Louis Vuitton is a large luxury brand, the world’s biggest in fact, but still remains in touch with artisanal horology. The latest launch from the French marque is a minute repeater that defies traditional dogma. With the Galactique, Louis Vuitton pays tribute to both the space age and classic watchmaking by dressing an otherwise traditional complication in a space-themed attire. It is literally a “Moonwatch”, but of another type. The lunar-centric watch is appealing, a little whimsical, and well-executed, with consistent design choices unifying the case and dial. The only decidedly classic element is the movement that is visible through the case back. An artful dial The centrepiece of the Gala...
Worn & Wound
If you’ve read any of my work, you’ll know I’ve always had a fascination for 1980s and 90s watch design. It’s a period often overlooked within the collecting community, and through my writing and research, I hope to bring some much-needed attention to it. A few months ago, I wrote an article about the Timex Skiathlom that seemed to interest many of our readers. Another fun piece Timex produced during this same era was the Triprix. Though not as flashy as the Skiathlom, several notable aspects of its design set it apart from your typical digital watch. It’s fun, it’s mighty functional, and it’s as close to owning a Seiko Giugiaro for under $100 as you can get––what’s there not to love? The Triprix’s History and Design According to information gathered through various forums, advertisements, and websites, the Triprix was released in the late 1980s and continued production throughout the early 1990s. The model came out during a period where Timex set their eyes on producing timepieces aimed at sporting and leisure activities like skiing, surfing, fishing, sailing, and running. The central idea was for these timepieces to feature an array of functions that would assist the owner in their leisurely endeavors. According to a 1990 catalog, all variants of the Triprix sold for $40, the equivalent of roughly $100 by today’s standards. Moving to its design overall, the most noticeable aspect is its slanted digital display. Reminiscent of Seiko’s A828 Digi...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Iceland is a place of extremes: glaciers, geothermal hot springs, and black sand beaches shaped by volcanic fury. It’s also a place where time seems to slow down and I thought it was ideal for reflecting on both nature and time spent with family-shaping memories I'll never forget. Watches were also part of the journey, of course. And as I prepared for the trip, the exercise behind choosing which timepieces to bring was something I deeply enjoyed. Now that I'm back, I just wanted to reflect on those choices and how they played a role in my first trip outside the US since the COVID era. I needed it, and it was awesome.
Monochrome
While Eberhard & Co. is a household name among Italian watch collectors, its rich history and longstanding tradition in producing chronographs have yet to be discovered by a wider audience. Founded by Georges Eberhard in 1887 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand’s pocket watch chronographs gave way to its first wristwatch chronograph in 1919. Models that […]
Fratello
Visiting Greubel Forsey is unlike stepping into most watch ateliers. Tucked away in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand has always carried an aura of mystery, spoken about with reverence among collectors but less visible in mainstream luxury circles. That is partly by design. When I sat down with Michel Nyddegger, the brand’s recently appointed CEO, it […] Visit Inside Greubel Forsey: CEO Michel Nydegger On Strategy, Craftsmanship, And The Future to read the full article.
Monochrome
A microtechnology engineer with an MBA and a Master’s degree in Luxury Management, Gregory Kissling was appointed a few months ago as the head of one of the most prestigious names in Haute Horlogerie: Breguet. A visit to the Vallée de Joux gave us the opportunity to sit down with him to discuss his career […]
Monochrome
Audemars Piguet recreates a colour intimately associated with its first Royal Oak model of 1972. Although the colour described as “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” has appeared on many dials, it has never been replicated in high-tech ceramic. Inspired by the clear night skies of the Vallée de Joux, this darker tone of blue ceramic is […]
SJX Watches
This year is quite the anniversary for Vacheron Constantin, with the brand turning 270 years old. To mark the occasion appropriately, the Geneva-based manufacture created the mighty Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première, the culmination of eight years of development. Now the most complicated wristwatch ever, this unique wristwatch boasts 41 complications on two faces, encompassing five rare functions as well as a world first – a celestial object tracker. All of that is contained in a surprisingly compact, but still large, case. (A detailed list of the complications is available in the addendum below.) Initial thoughts Timepieces of such complexity reach beyond the realm of horology and can be regarded as engineering marvels. In a sense the Solaria is not unexpected since VC has a long history of making ultra-complications – “The Berkley” pocket watch was just unveiled a year ago – but the Solaria is one of the most fascinating watches in recent memory. The numbers behind the Solaria are impressive. Beyond the 41 functions, the watch is powered by the cal. 3655 that’s made up of 1521 pieces and the subject of 13 patents. The watch took eight years to develop and construct, which is impressive for a single timepiece. Surely VC will trickle down some of the developments related to cal. 3655 and install them in simpler timepieces, but condensing 41 complications into a wristwatch no thicker than 15 mm is an engineering feat that cannot b...
Monochrome
Bianchet, an independent watchmaking brand founded in 2021 and based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, has quickly established a distinctive identity with its modern tonneau-shaped designs. Earlier this year, the brand introduced the B 1.618 UltraFino, a milestone model release that brought several firsts: an ultra-thin case, a metal bracelet, and an automatic movement. Now, to mark […]
Monochrome
Sometimes, moving forward means going back to recover the good things from the past. That appears to be the case at Schwarz Etienne, a small, independent brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds that wants to raise its profile and become better known on the watch scene. Founded in 1902, the brand is now in the hands of […]
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