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A Unique F.P. Journe Élégante for Geneva’s MAMCO Art Museum SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Sep 6, 2024

A Unique F.P. Journe Élégante for Geneva’s MAMCO Art Museum

Continuing with its regular support for various charities around the world, F.P. Journe has created the Élégante 48 mm Titalyt MAMCO that will be sold to benefit the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art of Geneva (MAMCO) on September 18, 2024. It’s essentially a variation of the stock Élégante with an engraved bezel and a reproduction of Maurizio Nannucci’s 1994 Art on the dial. While the watch is simple, the number will be big. As an example, the one-off Élégante 48 “Pink” raised over US$400,000 for American breast cancer charity in February this year. MAMCO 30 F.P. Journe has long been a supporter of MAMCO via its sponsorship of the Prix Solo at artgenève, an annual art fair organised by the museum. The one-off Élégante was conceived to raise funds for MAMCO’s renovation, which is part of the institution’s 30th anniversary commemoration this year. Founded in 1994 by a group of prominent bankers and lawyers, MAMCO is Switzerland’s largest museum dedicated to contemporary art. Located in a former factory, MAMCO sits across from the Patek Philippe Museum, and a five minute’s walk from F.P. Journe’s manufacture. The Élégante MAMCO is the larger size of the model, measuring 48 mm lengthwise. It has a titanium case coated in Titalyt, which is essentially a ceramic layer created via chemical oxidation. The case is identical to that on the standard model, save for the bezel that is engraved with “MAMCO” and “30”, a reference to the museum...

Hands On: F.P. Journe Élégante “Gino’s Dream” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Aquanaut minute repeater Jul 9, 2024

Hands On: F.P. Journe Élégante “Gino’s Dream”

Now a legend in his own time, François-Paul Journe is an independent watchmaker who has created some of the most complicated and most ingenious timepieces in contemporary watchmaking. But having quietly previewed it last year, Mr Journe finally launched a watch that is, on its face, surprising for his brand: the Élégante Gino’s Dream. Many brands have “rainbow” watches in their catalogues, but as is always the case with Mr Journe, his “rainbow” creation is done his own inimitable way. Based on his inventive quartz watch, the Élégante Gino’s Dream is set with synthetic gemstones of glass-ceramic composite. The colours and model name are a tribute to the late Gino Cukrowicz (1959-2021), one of Mr Journe’s best friends and a longtime business partner. Initial thoughts With the popularity – and value – of “rainbow” watches, it seems like every watch brand has one in its line-up, from the Patek Philippe Aquanaut minute repeater in rainbow stones from end to end to Tudor’s special edition for the VCARB Formula 1 team. So an F.P. Journe in those colours isn’t surprising, yet the Élégante “Gino’s Dream” is unexpected. As with much he has done, Mr Journe didn’t do a “rainbow” like anyone else. Instead of an exceptionally expensive gem-set watch – a favoured approach as a sure way to increase revenue without boosting production – he created something entry-level, more or less. And the watch has a deeply personal aspect to it – Gino...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Bugatti Tourbillon, John Lennon’s Watch, and Brewing Ancient Beer Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe 2499 Jun 22, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Bugatti Tourbillon, John Lennon’s Watch, and Brewing Ancient Beer

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com The Story Behind John Lennon’s Patek   We saw one of the most fascinating watch stories of the year come to light this week via The New Yorker, with a long piece diving into the strange history of John Lennon’s Patek Philippe 2499. For decades, the whereabouts of this watch had been unknown to the general public – it was considered one of the great “lost” watches. The story, written by Jay Fielden, covers the known history of Lennon’s 2499, including it being given as a gift to Lennon by Yoko Ono for his 40th birthday, the theft of the watch in 2005, and legal wrangling in Swiss courts to determine the rightful owner. It also, for the first time, gives us a glimpse of the caseback engraving, a message to Lennon from his wife, photographed for an Auctionata auction that was set to take place in 2013, but never went to market.  Pentax Introduces their First Film Camera in 20 Years  Film photography has had a bit of a resurgence in recent years, and Pentax has just gotten into the game with a compelling new film camera, their first in two decades. The Pentax 17, which reta...

Anoma Makes 1950s Asymmetrical Style Affordable SJX Watches
Patek Philippe or dive watch While Jun 6, 2024

Anoma Makes 1950s Asymmetrical Style Affordable

Newly established “micro” brand Anoma follows a familiar template: making particular vintage designs or genres affordable. But it’s approaching the concept with a different flavour. Instead of “sector” dials or Breguet numerals, the brand’s inaugural watch, the A1 First Series, is a clean, geometric form inspired by 1950s furniture. Initial thoughts The A1 is refreshing change from the typical “micro” brand offering that is too often a remake of a vintage Patek Philippe or dive watch. While the A1 won’t have the broad appeal of a conventional round watch, it is an interesting alternative for someone on a budget. The A1 is more typical of “micro” brand offerings in its fit and finish. It is done well for the price, but some compromises had to be made to achieve the affordability. The gap between the case middle and back, for instance, is quite obvious. This isn’t a criticism but a fact true of all brands in this genre. Vintage flavour Founded by Matteo Violet Vianello, a management consultant who’s a watch entrepreneur on the side, Anoma aims to be a “experimental and daring vision of watch design”. The A1 is not modelled on a watch, but instead a triangular table designed in the 1950s by French architect Charlotte Perriand. Earlier in her career Perriand worked at Le Corbusier’s studio, where she helped design several now-famous pieces of furniture, including the B 306 chaise longue. The watch reproduces the outline of the table with the cas...

Introducing – The Return of the Gerald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Monochrome
Audemars Piguet 1972 Royal Oak Patek May 30, 2024

Introducing – The Return of the Gerald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive

Gerald Genta is surely mostly known for his work with Audemars Piguet (1972, Royal Oak), Patek Philippe (Nautilus, 1976) or his own bold and original creations. There is, however, much more to the man than just these two icons of the luxury sports watch category (think Universal Geneve Polerouter, Omega Constellation or Rolex King Midas). […]

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Mike’s Picks From Seiko, Ming, Oak & Oscar, And Longines Fratello
Longines It’s time May 28, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Mike’s Picks From Seiko, Ming, Oak & Oscar, And Longines

It’s time to chime in on the best watches under €2,500. It’s a tough subject for a couple of reasons. First, many of my colleagues have already opined and used up some great picks. Second, this price level now feels like a no man’s land because most brands prefer to play above or below it. […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Mike’s Picks From Seiko, Ming, Oak & Oscar, And Longines to read the full article.

Massena LAB Teams Up with Raúl Pagès Once Again for the Limited Edition “Absinthe” Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe watches May 22, 2024

Massena LAB Teams Up with Raúl Pagès Once Again for the Limited Edition “Absinthe”

Massena LAB has announced a new collaboration with independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès inspired by one of the most important Patek Philippe watches of the last century. The Absinthe, which serves as the direct follow-up to the pair’s massively successful 2022 release, the Magraph, brings together a proprietary hand-wound movement, a strikingly green dial (reminiscent of the infamous spirit for which the watch is named), and all the vintage charm we have come to expect from Massena LAB in one surprisingly affordable (and highly limited) package. William Massena is one of those rare figures in the watch industry who everyone seems to know. He’s an outsized presence who seemingly manages to be everywhere at once and have a hand in every facet of the watch industry. Over the last few years though, his name has come to be associated primarily with Massena LAB, where he consistently produces some of the most talked about limited editions and collaborations on the market. This latest release follows closely on the heels of a watch introduced last month. That watch - a collaboration between Massena LAB, Pagès, and Phillips Auction House in association with Bass & Russo - debuted the M690 movement used in the Absinthe and drew inspiration in its layout from the iconic (and record-setting) 1952 Patek Philippe ref. 2458 produced for J.B. Champion, Jr.  That watch was one of only two Patek wrist watches to have been fitted with an Observatory-grade movement, and its unique d...

Pass It On - The Heirloom Quality Of Properly Made Watches Fratello
Patek Philippe May 18, 2024

Pass It On - The Heirloom Quality Of Properly Made Watches

We’ve all heard it: “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.” This advertising slogan became almost as iconic as the watches themselves. That’s understandable, too, considering how it tugs at the heartstrings and strongly implies superior quality. But what charges a watch with heirloom quality? And […] Visit Pass It On - The Heirloom Quality Of Properly Made Watches to read the full article.

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Spring 2024 Part II SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie ref 6301A May 17, 2024

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Spring 2024 Part II

The spring auction season in Geneva started dramatically enough with a cyberattack at Christie’s that took down its website and app. Only Watch went ahead as scheduled, however, and raised over CHF28.3 million, with most of that coming from the Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301A that sold for CHF15.7 million. What transpired at Only Watch also played out in the subsequent auctions over the weekend. The live sales at the four auction houses, Antiquorum, Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s, sold almost CHF85 million of watches, including fees (excluding Only Watch). This compared to over well CHF110 million for Geneva’s fall season last year. Although the sale season six months ago was buoyed by an extra live auction at Christie’s (that was subject of much chatter), the diminished total for this season reflects the state of the market. The waning sentiment was palpable in all the salerooms. That said, the auctions did throw up a handful of grand surprises, including CHF3.13 million for the Patek Philippe ref. 605 HU world time pocket watch with cloisonné enamel dial at Antiquorum, and CHF1.16 million for the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I at Phillips. Christie’s sold the most expensive wristwatch this season with CHF2.47 million for a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 “pink on pink” (above), though Antiquorum claimed the title for most valuable timepiece with its ref. 605 HU pocket watch. Image – Christie’s The good and great indies One of the ...

A New Limited Edition from Massena LAB and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo Pays Tribute to a Classic Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Ref 2458 wristwatch originally Apr 30, 2024

A New Limited Edition from Massena LAB and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo Pays Tribute to a Classic

Phillips, along with Bacs & Russo, has recently unveiled the 1952 Observatory Dial Limited Edition. This watch was created in partnership between three industry leaders: Phillips Watches, William Massena from the horological concept studio Massena LAB, and the award-winning independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès. The result is a watch that encompasses each collaborators’ unique talents, while building a watch that melds past and present seamlessly. Drawing inspiration from the legendary Observatory-grade Patek Philippe Ref. 2458 wristwatch, originally crafted in platinum for collector Joe Ben “J.B.” Champion, Jr. in 1952, this watch pays homage to horological history. Notably, the original timepiece set a record in 2014 as the most valuable time-only wristwatch ever auctioned, solidifying its iconic status. Despite its vintage influences, the 1952 Observatory Dial Limited Edition has a distinctly modern essence. Building upon the technical foundation established by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès in 2022 with the Magraph Limited Edition, this collaboration introduces a 38.5mm × 10mm stainless steel case housing the manual-wind, proprietary caliber M690. This movement is a refinement of Massena LAB’s inaugural movement, features sub-seconds at 9 o’clock and hand-decoration (including hand finished anglage on bridges and plates) overseen by Swiss craftsmen under Pagès’ direction.  Embracing a love for vintage timepieces and the narratives surrounding them, the colla...

Our Morning with Cartier Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Cartier can be thought Apr 12, 2024

Our Morning with Cartier

There’s really nothing like the Cartier meeting at Watches & Wonders. Along with Rolex and Patek Philippe, Cartier can be thought of as an anchor brand of the show. They have one of the largest booth spaces, with nonstop foot traffic, and a veritable army of cheery employees who are happy to show you watch, after watch, after watch in your meeting. It’s a seemingly never-ending parade of beautiful objects. To me, that’s what an event like this is all about. Why are we here if not to gawk? In terms of sheer volume, Cartier is your best bet for that.  What’s wonderful about Cartier, though, is that the beautiful objects aren’t necessarily completely unobtainable, and the brand works hard to make even the most head turning pieces feel approachable (at least in the context of the show). While you’ll see your fair share of unique pieces and watches that have no listed price because if you have to ask, well, you know how it goes, there are accessible ways into the brand that give you plenty of what is essential about Cartier.  My favorite example of this for 2024 is a new dial variant for the Santos, in a metallic brown with a gradient effect. It’s lovely, and pretty clearly meant to evoke something that has aged naturally over a period of many years. It’s available as both a large and medium Santos, but it’s very clear that the medium is the “correct” size for this watch. It works considerably better when it’s a little more discreet.  It joins a growi...

The three watches D.C. wore most in 2023 – Omega, Casio, Serica Time+Tide
Serica It’s time again Dec 30, 2023

The three watches D.C. wore most in 2023 – Omega, Casio, Serica

It’s time again to look back on The Year That Was, and take a moment to reflect upon the bastions of my personal watch rotation. Some pieces are purely sentimental: a thread connecting the past, a meaningful gift from a loved one, or a personal trophy marking a significant life event. Others are dispassionately pragmatic: … ContinuedThe post The three watches D.C. wore most in 2023 – Omega, Casio, Serica appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tiffany & Co.’s Table Clock Inspired by 1950s New York Taxicab SJX Watches
Patek Philippe timepieces Dec 19, 2023

Tiffany & Co.’s Table Clock Inspired by 1950s New York Taxicab

Now a cultural icon of New York City, Tiffany & Co. has turned to 1950s taxicabs of its home city for its latest tabletop timepiece. The Tiffany Taxi is an eight-day clock in aluminium and steel – in brand’s signature colour naturally. Taking the shape of a typical 1950s American automobile with tail fins, the Tiffany Taxi is both a timekeeper and automaton – it incorporates a time display as well as a V8 engine with moving pistons. And like past Tiffany clocks, it is made by L’Epée 1839, the go-to specialist in Switzerland for high-end clocks. Initial thoughts While primarily known for jewellery watches like its signature Bird on a Rock and double-signed Patek Philippe timepieces, the New York jeweller has recently unveiled a line of table clocks. The Tiffany Taxi is its most elaborate to date. In addition to the time display inside the engine compartment, the Taxi clock also has an “engine”, a mechanism taking the form of a V8 engine with pistons that move when the engine is “started”. Charming as it is, the Tiffany Taxi is a pricey horological novelty, with a retail price of US$50,000. It is, however, an impressive object for the desk that is particularly faithful to Tiffany’s history as a New York City institution. Inspired by midcentury cabs The Tiffany Taxi is modelled on the iconic taxicabs of New York City, in particular the Yellow Cabs made famous the world over by films about the city – but the clock is of course in the familiar Robin egg bl...

Highlights: Notable Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Autumn Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5004R Sep 27, 2023

Highlights: Notable Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Autumn Auction

Commencing in early October, the autumn auction season begins with Sotheby’s Important Watches I, a catalogue of 205 lots that will be sold on October 7 in Hong Kong. The auction includes artisanal timepieces, examples of independent watchmaking creativity, and exceptional complications. Here, we present eight notable complications including some unsurprising, six-figure picks like a Patek Philippe ref. 5004R with a special-order dial and a Rolex ref. 6062 “Stelline” from the original Japanese owner. But the list includes some that may fly under the radar but deserve recognition, such as the travel-ready Richard Mille RM62-01 (albeit conceived for flying private) and an impressive Patek Philippe ref. 942 grand complication pocket watch that includes a grande and petite sonnerie, putting it in the top rank of all pocket watches. Important Watches I takes place on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 2166: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar ref. 345.056E  The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar has effortlessly fuses the renowned Lange 1 design with a complex movement, conspicuously excluding the tourbillon found in its larger counterpart. At launch, the watch was available in two guises: pink gold with a grey dial or the more popular, limited edition white gold with a “salmon” (pink gold) dial, as we see here.  In contrast to conventional calendars that employ sub-dials, the Lange 1 perpetual calendar sea...

The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Aug 26, 2023

The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all

“The World Is Yours” Dual Time Zone watch is a tribute to a family heirloom Jacob Arabo received at the age of 13 This two-dialed Wakmann inspired Arabo to aspire to create his own watches, and has informed his designs ever since It utilises a new manufacture calibre JCAA11, and this limited edition release is … ContinuedThe post The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TRADING FACES: Why I just gave up five Kurono watches for this one Piaget Time+Tide
Piaget It’s Trading Faces time! Jul 19, 2023

TRADING FACES: Why I just gave up five Kurono watches for this one Piaget

It’s Trading Faces time! For those tuning in for the first time, Trading Faces is a column in which I break down genuine watch trades I have made in my collection. I love writing this column, not only because it means there is a new and exciting, at least for me, watch in my collection, but also because it … ContinuedThe post TRADING FACES: Why I just gave up five Kurono watches for this one Piaget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Only Watch is Upon Us Once Again, This Year Featuring Furlan Marri and the Debut of their Impressive Perpetual Calendar Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Jun 29, 2023

Only Watch is Upon Us Once Again, This Year Featuring Furlan Marri and the Debut of their Impressive Perpetual Calendar

Only Watch, the biennial charity auction that finds an increasingly diverse set of brands offering one-off watches to the highest bidder, is back this year, and we’re starting to get word of the sale’s participants and the watches they’ll have on offer. You might recall that in 2021, we saw Baltic participate for the first time, which, in our opinion, not only elevated their status considerably, but the entire microbrand scene as well. For those of us who have followed and supported small, enthusiast driven brands for years, there was a certain amount of gratification in seeing one of our favorites getting worldwide, mainstream attention alongside the likes of Tudor and Patek Philippe. It was even better when we saw that Only Watch didn’t fundamentally change what Baltic stands for as a brand – they still make reasonably priced and attractive watches for hardcore collector and enthusiast types. This year’s slate of Only Watch participants features another small brand that we’ve been paying very close attention to since they first came on the scene just two years ago. Furlan Marri’s Only Watch debut caps what can only be described as a meteoric rise for the brand, and the somewhat mind blowing watch they’ve unveiled is genuinely unexpected and exciting.  Before we get into the weeds on the new Furlan Marri perpetual calendar – yes, their perpetual calendar – let’s back up a minute, because it’s important to understand the short history of the bran...

Up Close with the Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia Revolution
Patek Philippe Jun 14, 2023

Up Close with the Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia

The Laurent Ferrier x Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia is our latest collaboration with the man himself, featuring a verdant green dial inspired by Laurent’s love for nature and conservation. Laurent Ferrier’s legendary status needs no introduction, a third-generation watchmaker, with a three-decade career as a technical director for Patek Philippe and also a semi-professional racecar […]

Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe timepieces May 22, 2023

Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong

Having covered the extraordinary Patek Philippe timepieces and the single-owner “Ultimate Collection” in Christie’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong, we now shift gears and look at the sales’s line-up of independent watchmaking. The independents in the sale are of course led by big names like Richard Mille and F.P. Journe – amongst the latter’s offerings in the sale is the rare Tourbillon Souverain in the colours of the Chinese flag. But alongside these six- and seven-figure watches (in U.S. dollar terms), are some underrated watches that might be value buys, notably the Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab. And then there’s the simply whimsical with the Konstantin Chaykin Clown II. Important Watches (lots 2201-2360) begins at 1:00 pm on May 26 – the catalogue is available here. The “China 2010” dial Lot 2215: Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab While Ulysse Nardin is not an independent watchmaker in the strictest sense of the term, it isn’t owned by a luxury group. And the Freak is still an avant-garde watch over two decades after its introduction, a watch so exotic it seems to have emerged from mind of a talented independent watchmaker. Which is true: it was conceived by Carole Forestier then refined and perfected by Ludwig Oechslin. So the Freak certainly makes the cut in this independents feature. And this particular Freak is incorporates some notable innovations. Historically a platform for movement-technology experimentation, the Freak evolved into the F...

Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5980/1400G – May 20, 2023

Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023

The Geneva auction weekend is typically a good barometer for where the market is headed in the near term because it’s the opening act of the season, with the Hong Kong and New York sales following later in spring. At the same time, the Swiss city is also where many of the serious players and would-be players turn up during the auctions, perhaps because its more central location compared to its North American and Asian counterparts. Inching downwards Trends that became clear last season – six months ago – continued into the spring sales. Most obviously, the values of “hype” watches have continued to creep downwards. This was exemplified by the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980/1400G – white gold and entirely set with diamonds – that sold for CHF533,400 including fees. While times were good, the model was a million dollar (or franc) watch – the exact same watch sold for CHF937,500 a year ago at Phillips. More notably, the last time an example, before the pandemic at Christie’s in 2018, it achieved CHF612,500. Prior to the auction season, independent watchmaking appeared to be resisting the forces of gravity, with demand and prices for such watches continuing to be robust. Now it appears the genre is enduring the same decline as sports watches with integrated bracelets. Take for example the unique Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10 with a steel case and open dial sold at Phillips for CHF342,900 – a solid result but more or less its original retail price. Just ...

Funky colours and subtle upgrades for the TAG Heuer Carrera Date Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Date Colourful time-only Apr 26, 2023

Funky colours and subtle upgrades for the TAG Heuer Carrera Date

Colourful, time-only watches have become the new hot thing, as their mechanical simplicity offers a great canvas for some funky dial tones. The latest in line is a quartet of TAG Heuer Carrera Date models, sized at a unisex-friendly 36mm diameter and with some subtle changes that make for a hugely improved on-wrist feel over … ContinuedThe post Funky colours and subtle upgrades for the TAG Heuer Carrera Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

One Watch to Rule Them All: A New Strategy Emerges at Watches & Wonders 2023 Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe booths These brands Apr 12, 2023

One Watch to Rule Them All: A New Strategy Emerges at Watches & Wonders 2023

When you enter Palexpo, the enormous convention center that is home to Watches & Wonders, you have an immediate decision to make: right or left? A glance to the left and you see the Tudor, Rolex, and Patek Philippe booths. These brands, in a lot of ways, anchor the entire show, and dominate much of the conversation for the duration of the fair. If you look to your right, you’ll be greeted by something entirely different. This year, it was a giant Ingenieur, spread across the top of the IWC booth at the end of the hall, and it was hard not to get the message that this watch, and this watch alone, was the brand’s sole focus for Watches & Wonders this year. Building your Watches & Wonders presence around a single watch was a trend that came into sharp focus at this year’s event.  The IWC booth at Watches & Wonders, viewed from the opposite end of the hall. Whether brands took a literal one watch approach (like Ulysee Nardin, who only showed the new Freak ONE this year) or put the lion’s share of their backing behind one release but dropped a few additional under the radar pieces (like IWC), it’s a strategy that makes for a stark contrast with what feels like a more traditional practice of overwhelming everyone in the meeting with tray, after tray, after tray of new watches to try on, photograph, write about, and otherwise consider. The single watch strategy communicates a sense of confidence, that a brand has hit on something so good that they don’t need to muddy...

SJX W&W; Highlights – The Unexpected and the Well-Executed SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights – The Unexpected and the Well-Executed

Because it was the world’s biggest watch brands showing off their latest products at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), surprises seemed unlikely. Yet there were a few surprises at the fair, with several coming from the most conservative brand of all, Rolex, which debuted the now infamous “Bubbles” and “Puzzle”. But the unexpected aside, the fair also saw a number of well-executed new models that were just right, most notably from Cartier, which stuck to what it does well. The Tank Normale in yellow gold with a matching bracelet Surprises A surprise launch, but certainly not unexpected as a highlight, is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time ref. 5224R. Although it appears to be a typical Calatrava at a distance, the ref. 5224R is elegantly different. For one, it is surprisingly large for a Calatrava at 42 mm but typically thin at under 9 mm. The ref. 5224R More unusual is the 24-hour display that is a convenient and smart method of showing two time zones without the need for a day and night indicator. But as is often the case with Patek Philippe, the novelty of the watch was not invented. Its key features, namely the time display and case size, are rooted in history – the watch is modelled on the oversized Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches of the early 20th century. But at over US$57,000, the ref. 5224R is unusually expensive for a two-time zone watch, though that is explained in part by the high-end movement inside that’s shared with the top-of-t...

SJX W&W; Highlights – Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights – Independent Watchmaking

As is often the case when the wider industry is doing well, independent watchmaking is on fire. This was illustrated by the numerous and diverse exhibitors, many of them brand-new entrants, showing their wares alongside Watches & Wonders in Geneva. But as is often the case when independent watchmaking is on fire, quantity far exceeded quality, and the good and great were rare. Not wanting to go up against brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe for eyeballs (and also because most independent marques now enjoy long, long waitlists), many watchmakers didn’t launch anything new. Some talented watchmakers are merely making slow but steady progress, like Yosuke Sekiguchi, the Japanese watchmaker based in Switzerland who presented the final version of his Primevère along with new dial variants for the same. One of the best new launches is not really a new model, but it’s good enough it deserves a top spot on the list. The F.P. Journe FFC is the regular production version of the unique FFC Blue made for charity auction Only Watch in 2021. Indicating the time with a five-fingered hand, the time display is simple but driven by a clever and complex movement, illustrating the brilliance of its creator. Granted it costs CHF820,000 before taxes, which is probably too much even considering the complication. But according to Mr Journe, the movement is complex enough that it can only be assembled and adjusted by a watchmaker who is otherwise working on the Astronomic grand complication....

Highlights: Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5016 Mar 23, 2023

Highlights: Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

Having covered highlights from independent watchmakers at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches I auction in Hong Kong, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on April 5. We look at eight notable lots. Some, like the platinum Patek Philippe ref. 5016 with its minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon, are amongst the most valuable in the sale. But the catalogue also has value buys, notably including offerings from jewellers like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue can be accessed here. The Patek Philippe ref. 5016P Lot 2137: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux One of the most poetic timepieces by the Parisian jeweller, the Pont des Amoureux was a watch that helped make Van Cleef & Arpels as a watchmaker. This watch is the original and cleanest version of the model, which was discontinued in 2019 and replaced by a revised version. The watch is all about a uniquely whimsical depiction of the passing of time. A double retrograde display takes the form of two figures: a lady with an umbrella indicates the hours whilst a gentleman marks the minutes. The two figures move towards one another over the course of 12 hours, until they meet and “kiss” on top of the bridge that overlooks the Seine river – this happens twice in a day, at midday and midnight. The dial is executed in grisaille enamel, a meticulous process that dates back to the 16th century. The techn...

The new MB&F; LM Perpetual has a salmon dial in a steel case – super rare for the brand yet not a limited edition! Time+Tide
Patek Philippe typically … ContinuedThe post Mar 21, 2023

The new MB&F; LM Perpetual has a salmon dial in a steel case – super rare for the brand yet not a limited edition!

The MB&F; LM Perpetual Steel is their second ever creation to have a salmon dial Stainless steel is very rarely used by MB&F; for cases, upping the rarity factor even more Not a limited edition, but it will be limited in production each year When you look at higher end brands like Patek Philippe, typically … ContinuedThe post The new MB&F; LM Perpetual has a salmon dial in a steel case – super rare for the brand yet not a limited edition! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.