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Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Worn & Wound
Let’s orient ourselves in the watch world five decades ago. The year is 1975, and we are in the height of the quartz crisis. Just six years prior in 1969, the watchmaking landscape forever changed with Seiko’s introduction of the first quartz timepiece, which called into question the future of mechanical timekeeping as we knew it. The era also marked the advent of the luxury sport watch, beginning with Gerald Genta’s Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet between 1970 and 1972. These two pivotal moments in horological history gave birth to an icon: the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. The first Laureato entered Girard-Perregaux’s catalog in 1975. The model was modestly sized by today’s standards and was even rather mid-sized for the era with a case measuring just 36mm (by comparison, the first Royal Oak began to set the tone for more oversized watches clocking in at 39mm, but was considered notably large and given the nickname “Jumbo”). The 1975 Laureato featured a two-tone construction, highlighting its mix of curves and geometric shapes. The design echoed Genta’s but with softer edges and a slightly more elevated look thanks to the addition of yellow gold elements combined with stainless steel. In line with the times, the model housed a quartz caliber, but not just any quartz caliber – it was COSC-certified. “The Laureato was more than just a new model for Girard-Perregaux’s catalog,” confirms Beatrice Morelli, Chief Customer Experience Officer. “It represente...
Monochrome
The Girard-Perregaux Laureato is a child of the 1970s, one of the seminal integrated luxury sport watches designed during this exuberant, pivotal decade for the watch industry. Since 1975, the model has evolved in various directions while remaining faithful to its defining features. Half a century later, the collection is still alive as the brand […]
Fratello
By now, everyone is aware that the Santos de Cartier is hot stuff. Cartier has certainly realized this and keeps releasing new versions of its square all-metal sports watch. I still love my Santos Galbée XL ref. 2823. However, as a true Cartier Santos fan, I can’t get enough of all the new variations La […] Visit Hands-On: Two Sporty New Variants Of The Cartier Santos - One In Titanium, The Other In Steel With A Black Dial And Lume to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In a first, Cartier has just unveiled the Santos de Cartier LM in titanium. Its flagship sports watch now features a case and matching bracelet in matte, bead-blasted titanium – specifically grade 23 titanium – while retaining all of the other familiar Santos design elements, including the exposed screws and traditional silvered dial. The Santos in titanium is powered by the same industrial 1847 MC movement found in its steel counterpart, and costs about 20% more, but has a great deal more tactile appeal. The watch is large, lightweight, and low-key. Initial thoughts The Santos was originally conceived as a sports watch in 1904, albeit not of the sort known today. The original was an aviator’s watch, but a tiny and thin watch more comparable to a 21st century dress watch. That history, however, meant that Cartier has rolled out several sporty-ish versions of the Santos in the past. It’s surprising that it took Cartier this long to put together a Santos in titanium. The smooth, blasted case finish has a great deal of tactile appeal, and the muted, matte aesthetic is equally appealing. Some might see this as being way too similar to the steel model – the two are indistinguishable at a distance – but that is part of its appeal. Almost twins, titanium (left) with a bead-blasted finish, and steel with a brushed finish and polished bezel Though the material is different, the exterior finishing is almost identical to that of the steel model, except that the brushed fi...
Monochrome
Hermès has a flair for creating intriguing case shapes with a dash of poetic licence. Launched in 2024 and designed by creative director Philippe Delhotal, the Cut watch is a stylish, versatile, unisex, sporty-chic collection with a sophisticated design and an in-house movement. Adding a touch of colour, the new Hermès Cut sports a sky […]
Fratello
Stylish, thought through, sophisticated… These are just a few words to describe the 35mm Japan-only Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase. This limited edition of 100 pieces was brought to life with Masayuki Hirota, the editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan Edition. The small watch is clearly a historically inspired Millesime, with its sector dial marking the hours, […] Visit Introducing: A 35mm Japan-Exclusive Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Topo Design’s Custom Frame Back for the Trek Checkout View this post on Instagram A post shared by Topo Designs (@topodesigns) Trek,a bicycle and accessory manufacturer, recently unveiled their newest bike, The CheckOUT. While the bike itself seems quite impressive (check out Bikepacking or The Radavist for more), Trek’s partnership with Topo Design to create a custom frame bag caught our attention. While frame bags can be made as a “universal” accessory, attaching via velcro, this custom bag is designed to use the integrated mounting points inside the CheckOUT frame. In addition to the custom bag, Trek and Topo have released an entire collection of matching bags, including a universal frame bag, to fully kit the CheckOUT, or whichever bike you own. Check out the full collaborative collection here. The Artemis Series from Nick Mankey Designs Nick Mankey has unveiled a new limited edition, the Artemis collection, featuring official NASA emblems and colors with approval from NASA’s Public Relations Department . Drawing inspiration from various crew suits, the Orion spacecraft and the depths of the unknown horizon, this new collection features both wa...
SJX Watches
Almost exactly a year after the Lange 1 with an onyx dial, A. Lange & Söhne is following up with the Saxonia Thin Onyx. It’s essentially an upgraded version of Lange’s simplest and most affordable model, replacing the conventional silver dial with one of polished onyx stone. Available in either platinum or Honeygold – each is limited to 200 pieces – the Saxonia Thin Onyx is even more of a formal dress watch than its regular production counterpart. Notably, both variants are unique editions of the model as neither platinum or Honeygold is part of the standard offering. Initial thoughts Last year’s Lange 1 30th Anniversary with an onyx dial was an exceedingly simple but extremely appealing watch. Lange has applied the same formula to the Saxonia Thin with equal success. Admittedly, the makeover isn’t imaginative or novel, but the result is striking. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is utterly simple yet unusually reflective thanks to the polished stone dial. The look and feel is that of an ideal black tie watch. It’s probably a bit too concise and shiny for everyday wear, but I wouldn’t mind one on the wrist. Choosing between the two is difficult. They are very different yet very much the same. Both, in fact, retail for exactly the same. The platinum version has a slight edge for me, simply because of general preference for the metal. The new dial and case metal, however, come at a hefty premium. The standard model in gold retails for a bit under US$25,000, while the o...
Teddy Baldassarre
The choice of where to begin a watch collection might just be the most personal decision you ever make in your collecting journey. Today, I will be acting as your watch inspiration fairy godmother and offer up what I think is a delectable platter of best starter watches to choose from for those gearing up to take the plunge into this hobby. Some rules of the road: today, I’m aiming for reasonably attainable watches that I think are suitable for confident beginners. My picks are more geared towards those who have already been bitten by the watch-collecting bug and have surpassed the “will I actually wear a watch regularly” conundrum. This is a necessary phase; we all go through it, but from now on, I will assume that you, dear reader, if you’ve found yourself here, that you are pretty damn confident that you want to wear a watch proudly on a daily basis. So without further ado, let’s get into the watches, shall we? Best GADA Starter Watch Contenders Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Case: 40mm Movement: 8210 Automatic Water Resistance: 50 meters (still water swimming) Price: $356.25 As an entry point into mechanical watches, Citizen and Seiko are really neck-in-neck on offering some of the best value for the price, with many solid automatic models available for under $500. These Japanese heavy hitters are really in a class of their own. But among the rather extensive contemporary catalog of Citizen watches, its Tsuyosa line offers the most versatility and GADA potenti...
Monochrome
Unimatic is a Milan-based brand, founded in 2015. It has quickly built a reputation for contemporary tool watches that distil military and field watch DNA into bold, modern forms. The brand’s watches are offered in short production runs, with designs that are rooted in minimalism and focus on legibility, durability, and proportion. The recent Modello […]
Hodinkee
Worn by the British swimmer in 1927, this historic watch is a symbol of endurance and one of the most important pieces in the history of Rolex.
Fratello
I do not embark on nearly as many adventures as I would love to. As much as I like to tell myself it’s due to a lack of time, I know that’s not true, and the watch on my wrist is an excellent reminder that I need to go out more. Most of us wear […] Visit Hamilton Puts The Khaki Collection In Its Natural Habitat In The “Step Outside” Campaign to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The independent watch space in Japan is one of the most interesting in the world right now. There have, of course, always been a lot of great watches coming out of Japan, but the last few years have seen a real surge in enthusiast focused releases from brands at literally every price point, and they’ve been redefining what a Japanese watch looks and feels like. We recently covered the latest release from Ōtsuka Lōtec, a daring haute horology experiment with a six figure price tag, and this year also saw the unveiling of Naoya Hida’s first perpetual calendar, which, for me personally, is still one of the very best watches I’ve laid hands on in 2025. These watches, and others, make for great examples of the breadth of Japanese watchmaking, but not everything new and interesting is prohibitively expensive. Case in point, Kiwame Tokyo, an entirely new brand that recently came across our radar. Kiwame is the brainchild of Masami Watanabe, a 30 year veteran of the watch industry who began his career importing luxury watches from European brands to his native Japan. Over time, he also became interested in the burgeoning microbrand scene, and the stated goal of Kiwame is to create a “truly Japanese” microbrand that captures the refinement and craft that is often associated with Japanese design principles. Kiwame debuted their first two watches only a short time ago and they quickly sold out of each 99 piece limited edition (an additional run is promised for Novembe...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne is a serious minded brand that rarely does fancy in terms of dials, so even a simple cosmetic makeover is novel for the brand. That’s true for the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds with a pink gold dial that was just launched earlier this month, applying a striking new look to a technically compelling but arguably under-appreciated watch. Described officially as “pink gold” – it is actually solid gold – the dial is in a shade best known as “salmon”. This gives a vivid, fresh aesthetic to a watch that’s compact and surprisingly complex, combining a regulator-style display with a deadbeat seconds linked to a remontoir, as well as a hacking, zero-reset seconds. Initial thoughts The Richard Lange Jumping Seconds has always been an interesting watch in technical terms; the movement is unusual in function but typical Lange in terms of quality. Calibres like this are tangible illustrations of Lange’s prowess in both engineering and aesthetics when it comes to movements. Despite being relatively complex, the Jumping Seconds is unusually compact for a complicated Lange watch, giving it surprisingly wearable dimensions. This gives the watch tangible and intellectual appeal. But the original versions, both with silver dials, were a little boring. The subsequent version with a black dial was high contrast and more appealing. The latest version with a pink gold dial is the easiest to like. It’s an eye-catching livery that does justice to the mechanics ...
Teddy Baldassarre
The beginning of October is the official marker of the beginning of spooky season, at least in my opinion. In the spirit of Halloween inching closer and closer on our calendars, I thought it would be fun to take a deep dive into a watch that really channels the energy of the season, at least as far as nicknames go – the Seiko Monster. And, to lean even further into the fanfare, I’ll be focusing solely on the most Halloween-appropriate colorways of the Seiko Monster universe – that’s right, it's the bright, pumpkin-y Seiko Orange Monster from here on out. Below, I’ll be walking you through a little history lesson for context, breaking down the various generations of Seiko’s Monster diver, ultimately to help you determine for yourself if this watch is an unlikely icon or a horological monstrosity. Seiko Monster Context First things first – the “Monster” moniker is a nickname for this line of divers that the enthusiast community came up with itself, and the brand has yet to embrace it officially. The early 2000s, at large, is representative of something of an identity crisis for the watch world, as the necessity of wristwatches as a time-keeping tool waned. Each brand has its own approach, but when I think of the early 2000s for watches, chunky, bold, imaginative, and somewhat overbuilt pieces are the first things that come to mind, especially on the heels of the relatively conservative watch designs of the 1990s. Ultimately, the origin story of the Seiko ...
Worn & Wound
In celebration of their 20th anniversary, the self-proclaimed “world’s first horological concept laboratory”, MB&F;, has a slate of special editions to remind the world of their experimental timepieces that push the boundaries of watchmaking (and watch wearing). Named for founder Maximilian Büsser (and friends), the brand’s back-catalog of inventive pieces has been plundered, with a total of 20 limited edition watches to be given away to the lucky few. The catch here is that instead of making the limited editions available commercially, MB&F; will be holding two raffles, each yielding 10 watches to 10 lucky winners. The first of the two raffles is more exclusive, being open only to “Tribe” members; aka, current owners of MB&F; watches. Becoming a Tribe member requires registering your MB&F; watch, and opens the door to special editions, collectibles, warranty extensions, and other perks. This Tribe-exclusive raffle promises winners one of 10 limited edition LM101 Longhorn pieces. The LM101 is among the most prized “Legacy Machine” watches MB&F; makes, and the Longhorn case is seen infrequently in MB&F;’s catalog, and is perhaps even more sought after. It’s named for its distinctive long lugs, here extending from a 40mm stainless steel case. The colorway is sober silver with black subdials and blue accents on the hands. A caseback inscription on the reverse side reads “Fortune Favors the Bold”. The second raffle is tied directly to the much more acces...
SJX Watches
On episode 11 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the monumental La Quête Du Temps astronomical clock that Vacheron Constantin just unveiled in Paris alongside the companion Quest of Time wristwatch. We also tackle Tudor’s first moon phase complication and what it means for the brand’s collection of dress watches. SJX also shares his views on the news that Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour will be giving the keynote at Dubai Watch Week, a move that’s largely unprecedented for the industry’s most impenetrable brand. We also chat about the other big news in the world of watch fairs, Audemars Piguet’s return to Watches & Wonders in 2026. Last but not least, we discuss what Girard-Perregaux’s new movement platform might reveal about the future of the brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.
Teddy Baldassarre
Few watch brands are as readily identified with aviation and the history of pilot’s watches than IWC, which not only gave the watch world two of the genre’s most iconic (and widely emulated) timepieces, the Big Pilot’s Watch and the Mark 11, but also has used both these groundbreaking models as foundations for a sprawling and diverse collection of contemporary aviation-inspired watches today. Here is the story of IWC Pilot’s Watches, from the Special Watch for Pilots to the Spitfire to the Top Gun, from simple three-hand to perpetual calendar, and everything in between. F.A. Jones’ International Dream (1860s - 1930s) IWC founder Florentine Ariosto Jones Other than the fact that he came to Switzerland in 1868, at the relatively tender age of 27, to become the first American-born founder of a Swiss watch company, little is known about the life of IWC patriarch Florentine Ariosto Jones. He was born in New Hampshire in 1841 and fought in the American Civil War for the Massachusetts Infantry. His postwar career at the renowned Massachusetts watchmaker E. Howard & Co. led to his European sojourn and the establishment of the International Watch Company in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. From the outset, Jones’ business plan was to marry the generational watchmaking expertise of the Swiss with the then-new, assembly-line production techniques of the U.S.A. His decision to locate his factory in Schaffhausen, near Switzerland’s northern border with Germany, rather tha...
Monochrome
The chronograph is undoubtedly one of the most, if not the most, popular complications among watch enthusiasts. However, few people realise that this mechanism is one of the most complex in watchmaking. Most chronographs operate on the same fundamental principles. However, with the Royal Oak Jumbo Chronograph RD#5, Audemars Piguet dares to challenge conventions that […]
Fratello
Favre Leuba - formerly Favre-Leuba - is a historic brand we’re excited to cover here on Fratello. The world’s second-oldest watch company, just two years behind Blancpain, has a fascinating history and has produced some incredible watches. As was true for many marques, the Quartz Crisis proved challenging. While the brand never truly disappeared, it […] Visit Favre Leuba: How The Brand’s History Has Shaped Its Future to read the full article.
Monochrome
There is much, much more to the watch industry than the 10 mainstream luxury brands you see on the back of glossy print magazines. There is much more to the independent watchmaking scene than the 10 established names you’ve seen rising in the past 20 years, too. There are, for our great pleasure, true hidden […]
Worn & Wound
Nestled in a small valley in the Jura Mountains, Hölstein is a typical Swiss town that has endured for centuries. At its center, a pastel pink factory has seen many of them. Its story began in 1904 when Paul Cattin and Georges Christian purchased the closed Lohner & Co watch factory. Searching for a name, they settled on a nearby brook - Oris. It turned out to be a winning formula. By 1911, Oris was the largest employer in Hölstein with 300 workers and two additional factories in Holderbank and Como. They introduced staff housing to cope with the influx of talent. Just fourteen years later they opened two additional factories, paving the way for future growth. Nestled in a small valley in the Jura Mountains, Hölstein is a typical Swiss town that has endured for centuries. At its center, a pastel pink factory has seen many of them. Its story began in 1904 when Paul Cattin and Georges Christian purchased the closed Lohner & Co watch factory. Searching for a name, they settled on a nearby brook - Oris. It turned out to be a winning formula. By 1911, Oris was the largest employer in Hölstein with 300 workers and two additional factories in Holderbank and Como. They introduced staff housing to cope with the influx of talent. Just fourteen years later they opened two additional factories, paving the way for future growth. The post A History and Guide to Oris appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Sylvain Berneron's second watch couldn't be any more different than his first - at least at first glance. What it is, though, is brilliant.The post The Quantième Annuel proves Berneron isn’t a one-trick pony – not that anyone was worried appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Cartier is a brand that has been on an absolute roll in recent years. Some readers may remember a time when self-proclaimed watch geeks unfairly considered Cartier “a jewelry brand that also sells watches.” However, the tide of perception has truly shifted in the last decade or so, and Cartier’s timepieces now seem hotter than […] Visit Entry-Level Cartier: Four Options From New To Vintage to read the full article.
Fratello
About a month ago, Dave wrote about a new series of dress watches from Praesidus. This was a first for the young brand that usually focuses on military-themed field watches and chronographs. But even if it is a dress watch, it would not be a Praesidus without a link to a historical military event. The […] Visit Hands-On With Two Praesidus Victory Watches - Champagne And Classic to read the full article.
Fratello
Nivada Grenchen is always fun to explore. The brand was well regarded in the 20th century for tough tool watches, including a series that went to Antarctica. This led to the Antarctic watch line, and today, we’ll look at a vintage example. Revitalized in recent years, Nivada Grenchen has been going from strength to strength, […] Visit Value In Vintage: The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Labeling a watch as “vintage-inspired” can open it up to extra scrutiny. How historically accurate are the vintage features? How well-executed is the styling? And mostly importantly, does it make enough practical sense to release today? With their re-launch in 2022, Swiss brand Elka Watch Co. released the original Série 1 line, and the X- and D-Series lead the charge as historically-inspired sport and dress-style watches. Now, in 2025, Elka is bringing back the D series, and introducing a field watch variant, the N Series, in a smaller 36mm size, further upping their vintage styling accuracy. The new 36 N and D references first and foremost share the titular 36mm case diameter, 10.50mm thickness, and 41.10mm lug-to-lug measurements. Keeping both references ticking is a La Joux Perret G101 automatic movement with a 68-hour power reserve, promising modern functionality under the vintage dress, and both feature a screw-down exhibition case back to showcase that movement and provide 50 meters of water resistance. A scratch-resistant box-type sapphire crystal, coated with anti-reflective treatment, tops off the similarities between the two models. The N Series bursts into the lineup as Elka’s first field watch, and the beige, black, and yellow styling matches that application. Two models are available for the 36 N line: a beige dial model with black numerals and indexes and yellow-orange details; and a black dial version with yellow numerals and hands and white indexes...
SJX Watches
After a few quiet years, David Candaux has introduced the DC12 MaveriK – the brand’s fourth model and its first without a tourbillon. A deceptively complicated time-only watch, the DC12 features twin escapements linked by a differential, a mechanism deeply rooted in the twentieth century history of the Vallée de Joux. Housed in an organic 39.5 mm titanium case, the DC12 is the most affordable watch yet from the Le Solliat-based watchmaker, but retains the brand’s signature push-button crown below the dial. Initial thoughts An experienced constructor who can count the MB&F; HM6 and Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie among his credits, David Candaux launched his eponymous brand in 2017. But he would be the first to tell you it was not an easy start, managing to sell just 14 watches during his first four years in business. This is not uncommon in the world of independent watchmaking; look around at some of the most popular independent brands today and you’ll hear a similar story about their early days. Mr Candaux’s business subsequently picked up some momentum, and in the past four years the brand claims to have made an additional 42 pieces. If true, it’s an encouraging sign for a watchmaker with something of a chequered past as an independent constructor, who is said to have had difficulty meeting obligations to client brands. In some ways, the DC12 is the embodiment of this journey, being simpler and cheaper than Mr Candaux’s previous models....
Teddy Baldassarre
Purple is the color of royalty, and it appears that a Purple Reign has started to quietly take over the watch world in recent years, with violet hues finding their way to an increasing number of dials, from a somewhat surprisingly diverse range of watch brands. Like their predecessors in green, red, and orange, purple dials are still, in fact, something of a novelty; many of the timepieces featured below are intended for a niche, limited audience. Nevertheless, the rise of purple tones on watch dials is worthy of notice, and almost certainly here to stay for a while, Here we’ve gathered 15 of our favorite purple-dial watches in ascending order of price, from under $500 to over $85K. Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Sunray Purple Dial Price: $475, Case Size: 37mm, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of mechanical timepieces, including the NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer a variety of them, with a subtle sunburst finish, including the purple dial watch above. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for better ergonomics on the wrist. The bracelet has what Citizen describes as a “mountain-shaped” design ...
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