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Maen Goes Back to their Roots with the Lunar Classic 36 Worn & Wound
Maen Oct 3, 2024

Maen Goes Back to their Roots with the Lunar Classic 36

When we last checked in with Maen, they had just released their latest collaboration with visual artist seconde/seconde, a take on their popular Manhattan integrated bracelet sports watch that was both playful in its aesthetic and sober in its theme. That watch, and other watches in the Manhattan collection, represent one side of the Maen coin, which is that of a brand willing to experiment and play around with expectations, whether that’s in a collaborative partner like seconde/seconde, or making a watch that’s almost impossibly thin at a surprisingly affordable price point. Maen’s latest, though, represents a different side of the brand, one that is quite a bit more traditional and borders on classical, at least in a watchmaking context. The new Lunar Classic 36 brings a classic complication, the moonphase, back into the Maen lineup after a long absence.  Maen’s very first watch, released in 2017, had a moonphase complication. That quartz watch is very different in execution than any watch in the current Maen lineup, which is kind of the point of the Lunar Classic 36. It exists, in part, as a demonstration of how far the brand has come. Anyone who has handled a Maen knows that these watches punch well above their weight class in terms of fit and finish, and recent releases really demonstrate that the progress they’ve made getting the best manufacturing results possible, while honing in on a clearer than ever design language.  Like other recent Maen releases, ...

Hands-On With The Beaufort Fiordland GMT - An Affordable ’50s-Inspired Travel Watch Fratello
Oct 3, 2024

Hands-On With The Beaufort Fiordland GMT - An Affordable ’50s-Inspired Travel Watch

Until recently, I had heard of Beaufort but had never gotten the chance to check out the brand’s watches. Well, that changed with the introduction of the brand’s newest creation, the Fiordland GMT. This watch offers a good dose of vintage flair and combines it with a modern flyer-style GMT movement. Beaufort sent us two […] Visit Hands-On With The Beaufort Fiordland GMT - An Affordable ’50s-Inspired Travel Watch to read the full article.

The Seiko Presage “Laurel” Gets a Porter Classic Makeover SJX Watches
Seiko Presage “Laurel” Gets Oct 2, 2024

The Seiko Presage “Laurel” Gets a Porter Classic Makeover

The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series Porter Classic Collaboration SPB449 is result of a collaboration with Japanese fashion label Porter Classic. It’s modelled on the Laurel, the 1913 Seiko timepiece that was the first wristwatch made in Japan, giving the SPB449 a look typical of early-20th century timepieces that were essentially pocket watches converted into wristwatches. Porter Classic was founded by a member of the family that founded Porter Yoshida, the cult luggage brand known for its functional and pricey nylon bags. The brand offers clothing and accessories with a vintage feel, including jackets that accommodate pocket watches. Its take on the Presage is a modest tweak on the original: a black enamel dial made by the workshop of Mitsuru Yokosawa, the longtime supplier of enamel dials for the Presage. Initial thoughts Collaborations between watch brands and lifestyle labels are now common, so the SPB449 isn’t a surprise, especially since it’s between two uniquely Japanese brands. Still, Seiko rarely does collaborations with the Presage Craftsmanship series. The aesthetic, however, is not new as this similar to earlier Presage limited editions, namely the SPB359 of 2022 and last year’s SPB441, that were similarly inspired by the Laurel. While the difference between this and the earlier Laurel edition is basically a change of dial colour, the SPB449 stands out thanks to the high-contrast, black enamel dial. It’s striking even though the case is undersized ...

Introducing – The new Kurono Special Projects Réserve de Marche, a.k.a the Sensu NOS Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo was defined as his Oct 2, 2024

Introducing – The new Kurono Special Projects Réserve de Marche, a.k.a the Sensu NOS

The brainchild of Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka (also behind the return of Takano), Kurono Tokyo was defined as his vision of a more accessible take on his design language, with watches merging traditional Japanese cues and classic vintage flair. Recent introductions of the brand focused on compact, retro-inspired watches with a bit less of […]

My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Professional Oct 1, 2024

My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional

On this very day, October 1st, 25 years ago, I bought my first Omega Speedmaster watch. I was a student at the time and obsessed with watches, specifically, Omega Speedmasters. My first purchase was a Speedmaster 145.012 with caliber 321. One evening, I was cycling in the city center of The Hague and passed a […] Visit My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional to read the full article.

Kollokium is Back with “Variant d” of the Projekt 01 Worn & Wound
Oct 1, 2024

Kollokium is Back with “Variant d” of the Projekt 01

The still somewhat mysterious Kollokium project is back with its latest release, a new variant in their first series, dubbed Projekt 01. The Kollokium drops this year have reminded us, for better or worse, of the limited edition releases that dominated the pandemic era of watch collecting. In other words, watches timed to a worldwide release window, which starts a frenzy and inevitably ends up in many being disappointed when they miss out on snagging one. It seemed like these happened a few times a month in 2020 and 2021, but this cycle has slowed down significantly as the watch industry has normalized a bit over the last few years. I think it’s too Kollokium’s credit, then, that they’re still able to gin up a level of excitement for their watches that is capable of leaving people in a state where they inevitably lash out via keyboard. It’s also worth noting that these watches are still genuinely scarce enough that when they pop up on auction sites or the pre-owned market, they tend to command a hefty premium.  All of this, of course, is secondary to the merits of the Projekt 01 as a watch, and I still believe that Kollokium is doing something that is pretty genuinely interesting at a price point (at retail) that feels approachable. The brand, you’ll remember, was founded by watch industry veterans Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, who collectively represent the business, design, and collecting sides of the community, with overlap across all three fo...

Hands-On With The De Rijke & Co. Guy Allen “Land” From The Amalfi Series Fratello
De Rijke & Co Guy Allen Oct 1, 2024

Hands-On With The De Rijke & Co. Guy Allen “Land” From The Amalfi Series

What could you do to make a time-only watch distinctive? How about letting the case rotate up to 90° to adjust the dial to the ideal position when driving? You don’t even have to be a petrolhead to appreciate Dutch independent watchmaker Laurens de Rijke and his latest collaboration with Guy Allen. Designs make watches […] Visit Hands-On With The De Rijke & Co. Guy Allen “Land” From The Amalfi Series to read the full article.

Introducing – The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Auto, Now Available in Mid-Size 39mm Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Auto Oct 1, 2024

Introducing – The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Auto, Now Available in Mid-Size 39mm

Hamilton, a brand renowned for its connection with Hollywood and military forces, and its reputation for producing durable, reliable watches, expanded its popular Khaki Aviation series earlier this year with the modern Pilot line. Now offered in a versatile 39mm case size, new references bridge the gap between the existing, slightly oversized 42mm and compact […]

Revival-Brand Edouard Koehn Debuts Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe before establishing his own Oct 1, 2024

Revival-Brand Edouard Koehn Debuts Split-Seconds Chronograph

A dormant name recently revived, Edouard Koehn was once famous for its high-quality pocket watches, usually signed “Ed. Koehn”, one of which inspired the Legacy Rattrapante Split-Seconds Chronograph. Powered by an automatic calibre made by Concepto, the Legacy Rattrapante has a fired enamel dial inside a stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Though it was resurrected only a short while ago, Edouard Koehn has put out a variety of watches, ranging from chunky sports watches to world-timers. The Legacy Rattrapante is its most classical design to date. The styling essentially replicates a vintage pocket watch, so it’s not imaginative, but the functional simplicity is appealing. But because the watch employs a Concepto calibre, it is thick at 14.6 mm high, which is at odds with the vintage-inspired design. And the Legacy Rattrapante is also pricey at almost CHF16,000, or about US$19,000. Though the fired enamel dial is an expensive bonus, it still costs double the Habring² Doppel, which has a more sophisticated movement for almost half the price. Pocket watch style Born in Germany, Edouard Koehn (1839-1908) was a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe before establishing his own brand in Geneva that produced watches signed “Ed. Koehn” as well as under the brand name, H.R. Ekegren, a Danish brand he acquired. Koehn’s son, also named Edouard, inherited the firm, which went bust during the Great Depression. Several years ago, the Edouard Koehn trademark was acquir...

Introducing: The Lorier × Worn & Wound Astra Stargazer Fratello
Lorier Sep 30, 2024

Introducing: The Lorier × Worn & Wound Astra Stargazer

The new Lorier × Worn & Wound Astra Stargazer is the latest limited-edition collaboration from the New York City-based publication. The partnership is close to home as Lorier, a well-known microbrand, also hails from the Big Apple. They’ve created an affordable, very cool watch that should sell faster than the newest SoHo clothing drop. I’m […] Visit Introducing: The Lorier × Worn & Wound Astra Stargazer to read the full article.

Hands-On with the Retro Zodiac Ref. Super Sea Wolf Ref. 691 Diver Worn & Wound
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Rolex Submariner Sep 30, 2024

Hands-On with the Retro Zodiac Ref. Super Sea Wolf Ref. 691 Diver

I’d be hard-pressed to name a watch more iterated upon in the last few years than Zodiac’s Sea Wolf. The retro-inspired diver has been at the heart of a true brand renaissance and was at the forefront of the vintage revival movement that has so characterized the watch world over the last decade. Today, Zodiac is looking back to one of its earliest dive watches with the new Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ref. 691. There is, as with most things watch-related and pre-internet, some debate as to the initial launch date of the Zodiac Sea Wolf, but regardless of the date, there’s no doubt that Zodiac released the Sea Wolf as part of the first wave of dive watches back in the 1950s, but while watches like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner, and Omega Seamaster 300 soared (or dove), the Sea Wolf fell into the background - obscured to all but the most devoted watch enthusiasts alongside other early generation dive watches like the Eterna Kon-Tiki and Enicar Sherpa-Dive. By the time I got into watches in the early 2010s, the Zodiac Sea Wolf was one of the great secrets of the enthusiast world. Great examples could be had for a few hundred bucks, so for not much money, you could have a great-looking vintage dive watch with some real history. That all started to change when Zodiac, under the larger umbrella of Fossil Group, revived the Sea Wolf in 2015. The Zodiac Sea Wolf was immediately brought to the center of the horological world and has continued to stay relevant in t...