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Blancpain Introduces Bathyscaphe with Ceramic Bracelet SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Bathyscaphe Jul 5, 2024

Blancpain Introduces Bathyscaphe with Ceramic Bracelet

Blancpain just unveiled an all-ceramic bracelet to match the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe models in black ceramic: the time-and-date, flyback chronograph, and Quantième Complet (or triple calendar). Positioned as the entry-level model in the Fifty Fathom collection of historically-inspired dive watches, the Bathyscaphe has long been available in ceramic, so a bracelet is long overdue. According to Blancpain, each link of the bracelet unique in shape and size, so each link has to be manufactured individually, requiring an enormous amount of skilled labour – which helps to explain the price of almost US$8,000 for the bracelet. All three are now available with a matching bracelet Initial thoughts Though it was a pioneer in the dive watch as we know it, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has remained fairly under the radar, despite its relatively strong price-quality ratio. The ceramic bracelet for the Bathyscaphe helps it stand out, as few brands offer a matching bracelet for ceramic watches. While ceramic watch cases are common and found across the price spectrum, ceramic bracelets remain relatively uncommon, especially bracelets that are hand finished with a brushed surface like this. All links are manufactured individually, with each link differing in shape and size The ceramic bracelet is expensive – it costs just under US$8,000 extra compared to the same on a strap. That means the three-hand diver costs US$21,300, while the flyback chronograph and triple calendar are both US$...

The Zenith Defy Skyline Gets the White Ceramic, Skeleton Dial Treatment Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Skyline Gets Jul 4, 2024

The Zenith Defy Skyline Gets the White Ceramic, Skeleton Dial Treatment

I’ll be upfront here: I love the Defy. All the Defys. I’ve said many times to many people that the Defy is probably my favorite sports watch line of all time. It’s certainly my favorite corner of the Zenith catalog, and vintage Defy references are some of the coolest you can own, and somehow still represent a great value compared to comparable sports watches from other brands. To me, these watches have historically been exactly the right combination of avant-garde design and sports watch functionality. A Defy, unlike a Submariner, for example, can be both an art piece and an everyday wearer. They are also consistently interesting from a materials perspective, particularly when they get into colored ceramic, as they have with the newest Defy introduced today, a successor of sorts to one of my favorite watches from last year.  The Defy Skyline White Ceramic Skeleton is in some ways a predictable, natural evolution of the current generation Defy. It takes the ceramic case and bracelet we saw in last year’s black model, turns them white, and gives us the skeleton dial treatment that debuted early last year. It’s a similar trajectory to the Defy Classic releases from several years back, which started in titanium, with colorful skeletonized ceramic versions to follow.  This new reference is a little different though for how it plays with contrast. Against the stark white of the case and bracelet, we get a skeletonized blue dial and a movement in a matching shade. Tha...

Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Review Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Jul 4, 2024

Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Review

Good things tend to come in threes. Turning a triple play in baseball, hitting a trifecta in horse racing, three of a kind in poker - all of these are cause for celebration for those who achieve them. Nailing a clutch three-pointer in basketball can send a home crowd into euphoria, and “third time’s the charm” is the motivating mantra for every budding success story battling obstacles and doubts. In horological terms, one of the most desirable trilogies can be found in the so-called “Triple Calendar,” a style of timepiece that occupies the sweet spot between the simplest of calendar complications - your date and day-date functions - and the higher and accordingly pricier echelons represented by annual and perpetual calendars.  The Triple (also known as the “Complete”) is the simplest type of full-calendar function in that it displays all the information a wearer could need to determine the exact date - month of the year, day of the week, and date of the month- but also requires adjustment at the end of any month shorter than 31 days. (An annual calendar will make this adjustment for you in every month except February, while a perpetual calendar will adjust for every month all the way up until the year 2100 - always assuming, of course, that you, or whomever you pass the watch on to, keeps it wound all those years.) As I also point out in my guide to watch complications, these calendar indications are often, but not always, accompanied by a moon-p...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - RJ’s Picks From Longines, Cartier, Tudor, Sinn, And Fortis Fratello
Longines Cartier Tudor Sinn Jul 4, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - RJ’s Picks From Longines, Cartier, Tudor, Sinn, And Fortis

It has already been nine months since our last series of articles about the best watches under €5,000. I had to look up my choices from last time (new watches from Longines, Tudor, and Seiko and a pre-owned pick from Omega). I still stand by those picks, but my mood is slightly different these days, […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - RJ’s Picks From Longines, Cartier, Tudor, Sinn, And Fortis to read the full article.

Introducing: The Laco Augsburg And Aachen Limited Editions In Green Fratello
Laco Augsburg Jul 3, 2024

Introducing: The Laco Augsburg And Aachen Limited Editions In Green

Many pilot’s watches, especially those of the Flieger variety, are designed with a specific purpose in mind: their wearers must be able to read the time in a split second. That’s why the dials feature large numerals, hands, and markers. This results in an iconic look that has many fans worldwide. On the other hand, […] Visit Introducing: The Laco Augsburg And Aachen Limited Editions In Green to read the full article.

A Closer Look At The New Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic [Video] Fratello
Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic [Video] We Jul 3, 2024

A Closer Look At The New Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic [Video]

We recently introduced the new Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic collection here. It’s a collection of time-only Escale watches that use Louis Vuitton’s LFT023 movement. In this video, RJ discusses the Louis Vuitton Escale rose gold models in detail. Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic This year marks the 10th anniversary of the Escale collection. Louis Vuitton showed […] Visit A Closer Look At The New Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic [Video] to read the full article.

Ressence Gets into the Full Lume Dial Game with the Type 5 L Worn & Wound
Ressence Gets into Jul 2, 2024

Ressence Gets into the Full Lume Dial Game with the Type 5 L

If you’ve spent any time on the watch internet over the last few weeks, it should be no surprise that it’s dive watch season. Hardly a day goes by right now that some new dive watch doesn’t pop up on our radar, or come across our Instagram feeds. Now - with the release of the Type 5 L - Ressence has joined in, harnessing the sheer awesomeness of copious lume to make what may be the coolest version of their Type 5 diver yet. When the Ressence Type 5 was first released in 2015, it was unlike anything else on the market. With its bulbous architecture, oil-filled case, and signature Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) displaying the time, the Type 5 was about as fun as a watch could get. The Type 5 L pushes it even further and is a nice reminder that dive watch design doesn’t have to be static - there are still plenty of pages in the dive watch playbook to explore. On a technical level, the Type 5 L is exactly the watch we’ve seen over the last near-decade, but the technical side of things only tells part of the story. What sets the Type 5 L apart is its fully luminous dial. Without the glow, the Type 5 L looks awfully similar to the gray Type 5G from 2017. It shares the same 46mm wide, 15.5mm thick grade 5 titanium case; the same ETA 2824/2 calibre modified with a ROCS 5 module and magnetic transmission showing hours, minutes, and running seconds (plus oil temperature for good measure); and the same 100 meter water resistance. But it’s a whole other story ...

ochs und junior Introduces the Luna Sole, their Lightest and Thinnest Watch Yet Worn & Wound
Jul 2, 2024

ochs und junior Introduces the Luna Sole, their Lightest and Thinnest Watch Yet

ochs und junior has released the latest in their line of celestial-inspired watches, this time with a movement and complication ten years in the making. To look at it, the luna sole couldn’t be anything besides an ochs und junior and uses a series of rotating discs to convey the relative position of the moon, sun, and earth. When I was first getting into watches in the early 2010s, the watch industry - in particular the Swiss watch industry - was experiencing a very real bout of homogeneity. Coming out of the recession, and with the real boom times still ahead of them, it felt like brands were (mostly) looking to play it safe and ride out the stormy weather. ochs und junior was one of the first brands I came across that was, in a big way, playing their own game. While the luna sole is a pure expression of that approach, it’s also the thinnest and lightest ochs und junior we’ve seen yet, and demonstrates a clear evolution from the early days of the brand without sacrificing any of the brutalist industrial design the brand is known for. The luna sole measures in at 40mm across and 9mm thick, with a lug-to-lug barely longer than the diameter of the watch. More to the point, the grade 5 titanium case is light - the watch head without the strap is only 40 grams, about the equivalent of a handful of quarters. Inside the luna sole, you’ll find a modified version of the ETA 2892, initially conceptualized and designed by ochs und junior founder Ludwig Oechslin a decad...

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Review Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Jul 2, 2024

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Review

IWC released a new generation of its Ingenieur collection in 2023, at what many would consider the tail end of the integrated-luxury-sport-watch craze that gripped the industry heading into 2020. At the time, it was tempting to say that IWC was a bit late to the punch here, especially considering the Schaffhausen-based brand's enviable position of having an original Gérald Genta design from the ‘70s to utilize. In hindsight, however, it seems that IWC was playing the long game, and wasn’t interested in rushing out a throwback type of release. Instead, IWC took a bit more time and released a modern rendition of the original Genta design, released in 1976, as a foundation for years to come. The result is the Reference 3289 Ingenieur, and it’s a watch that looks to do more than merely capitalize on a passing trend.  There are two watches with which you likely associate the name Gérald Genta, and those are the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Genta penned both of these now iconic designs, in 1972 and 1976 respectively, and they have served as cornerstones in creating the premium sport-watch genre as a whole, as well as helped to spawn the subset of integrated-bracelet designs within it. But those are far from the only watches that can be attributed to Genta, and in fact, aren’t even the only integrated-bracelet sport-watch designs to come out of that era. In 1976, he also designed a new Ingenieur for IWC, known as the SL Ref. 1832 (tha...

Five Years With The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 In Moonshine Gold 310.60.42.50.99.001 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 Jul 2, 2024

Five Years With The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 In Moonshine Gold 310.60.42.50.99.001

In March 2019, Omega introduced the Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary edition in Moonshine Gold. This watch is a modern reproduction of the 1969 gold Moonwatch presented to US President Nixon, Vice President Agnew, and all active NASA astronauts at the time. That watch also became available to the general market, with a slightly […] Visit Five Years With The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 In Moonshine Gold 310.60.42.50.99.001 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Mondia Top Second Reissue - The Cult-Classic Flashing Dot Makes A Comeback Fratello
Jul 2, 2024

Hands-On With The Mondia Top Second Reissue - The Cult-Classic Flashing Dot Makes A Comeback

It has been quite some time since I wrote a hands-on review of a modern watch. When the news announcing the revival of my beloved Mondia Top Second hit our press mailbox last September, I instantly volunteered to look at it. A deep green sample of the new Mondia Top Second eventually landed safely on […] Visit Hands-On With The Mondia Top Second Reissue - The Cult-Classic Flashing Dot Makes A Comeback to read the full article.

Back To Basics: The Finishing Styles Unique To High-End Watches Explained Fratello
Jul 2, 2024

Back To Basics: The Finishing Styles Unique To High-End Watches Explained

We are back with another installment of Back to Basics, a series of articles aimed at newcomers to the watch hobby. This time, we will examine high-end finishing techniques. If you are new to the watch world, you may wonder what causes the massive differences in price between watches. One of many aspects at play […] Visit Back To Basics: The Finishing Styles Unique To High-End Watches Explained to read the full article.

Opinion: Maybe One Group Controlling All the Major Luxury Brands Would Be Bad? Worn & Wound
Jul 1, 2024

Opinion: Maybe One Group Controlling All the Major Luxury Brands Would Be Bad?

It’s been a slow few months in the watch industry. Not at all uncommon in the summer, and we haven’t even hit the real sleepy months yet, when most of Europe goes on holiday and American watch media is confronted with the reality that we’re working a beat that doesn’t really exist for a short period of time. But there was real news last week: Bloomberg reported that LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault owns a (small) personal stake in the Richemont Group, his closest rival in the luxury goods space. Once the news broke, many began to speculate. Hey, it’s a slow summer – speculating is what keeps us awake. Could this be a sign that LVMH is positioning itself to buy the Richemont Group? Could that even happen? What’s the actual point of antitrust laws anyway?  Bernard Arnault There’s no actual indication, of course, that Arnault wants to purchase Richemont. The holdings, according to Bloomberg, are part of a larger portfolio of Arnault family investments that include many publicly traded companies. No comment as of yet from Richemont or LVMH, although as many outlets are reporting, LVMH has a history of buying an interest in their rivals.  We live in a world where insane wealth becomes more insane every year, so it’s not a huge mental leap to think that Bernard Arnault, who on any given day might be the world’s wealthiest man, could have eyes on getting even richer. Taking an ownership stake in Richemont would almost certainly do that. It likely already has – Ric...

Introducing - The New and Superb Voutilainen KV20i Reversed Monochrome
Voutilainen Jun 28, 2024

Introducing - The New and Superb Voutilainen KV20i Reversed

Five years ago, Kari Vouitilainen‘s atelier unveiled an exciting evolution of the brand’s signature time-only Vingt-8 series, the Voutilainen 28TI model with an inverted calibre. The 28TI (Titanium Inverse) watch, with its sumptuous detailing and delicate decoration, brought to the fore movement components that were previously visible through the sapphire caseback, allowing an impressive display […]

A New Collaboration Between Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein is Meant to Make You Smile Everyday Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Jun 27, 2024

A New Collaboration Between Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein is Meant to Make You Smile Everyday

The last time we brought you news of a Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein collaboration, it was one of their most ambitious efforts to date, a Swiss tourbillon coming in under CHF 16,000, which brings a different angle to Louis Erard’s stated goal of making luxury watchmaking accessible. When that watch was released, Louis Erard promised additional collaborations to follow, and today we see the next step in their partnership. The Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Smile-Day adds a new colorway to a fan favorite format, and shows that there’s still gas left in the collaboration tank.  The Smile-Day is a stand-alone version of the “La Semaine” concept that we’ve seen Louis Erard and Silberstein experiment with a few times now. This watch essentially takes a day-date complication and replaces the “day” with a series of smiling emojis. It doesn’t actually help you keep track of the calendar, but it’s a fun and whimsical idea, and has always felt like a great match to Silberstein’s playful use of color and shape. The wearer is invited to adjust the “day” to the emoji that most fits their mood, or perhaps the emoji that most fits the mood they want to be in.  Previous versions of this watch have appeared with black and drab green dials, but this has a very different personality with a light gray dial. It’s complemented by light blue hour markers and a matching oversized minute hand, with a red hour hand and bright yellow seconds hand. As with earlier exampl...

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Raymond Weil Millesime Collection Worn & Wound
Raymond Weil Jun 26, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Raymond Weil Millesime Collection

Sometimes the little moments inform our collecting more than the big ones. A big moment might be the first time Dad trusted you to wear his watch. While formative, there’d be a lot more two-tone bracelets on Instagram if those moments drove purchasing decisions. My “big moment” came on my seventh birthday. After weeks of begging for a digital watch, I opened a package to be greeted by black resin and the coolest digital screen I’d ever laid eyes on. The subsequent victory lap through the kitchen resulted in a trip to urgent care. Though I still have the scar to remember the watch that unleashed the horological nerd within me, my watchbox is currently void of a single digital watch. On the contrary, little moments are constantly influencing how I think about and consume watches. These are often as simple as offhand remarks I hear at a meetup or a comment I read on Reddit. One of these little moments came while I was listening to Rico’s Watches Podcast a couple years ago. A RedBar chapter head was the week’s guest, and he made some brief, unflattering remarks about Raymond Weil. Sharing a story of buyer’s remorse, he cited a lack of demand on the secondary market and a design language that was an amalgamation of other brands rather than something original. These quick quips stuck with me. As a newer collector, I’d already discerned that anything with “mall watch” vibes might not receive the nod of approval from my enthusiast peers. And, having personally ...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Nacho’s Picks From Tudor, Breitling, Sinn, And Cartier Fratello
Breitling Sinn Jun 26, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Nacho’s Picks From Tudor, Breitling, Sinn, And Cartier

As we continue this year’s Fratello Favorites series, picking the best watches at several specific price points, we have arrived at the €5,000 limit. This is where we start to see some of the biggest names in watches come into the equation. As I mentioned last year, rising prices mean that some brands whose watches […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Nacho’s Picks From Tudor, Breitling, Sinn, And Cartier to read the full article.

The June 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Apollo 11 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster As July 2024 Jun 25, 2024

The June 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Apollo 11

On the last Tuesday of every month, together with the Swedish REM company, we introduce a new strap for the Omega Speedmaster. As July 2024 marks the 55th anniversary of the Moon landing, we introduce the Apollo 11 strap to you. It’s also in time to have it on your wrist on July 20th, which […] Visit The June 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Apollo 11 to read the full article.

Is the Seiko Presage SPB445 the best Arita Porcelain dial watch yet? Time+Tide
Seiko Presage SPB445 Jun 25, 2024

Is the Seiko Presage SPB445 the best Arita Porcelain dial watch yet?

One of the things that makes Seiko such an interesting brand is that it’s not afraid to celebrate its Japanese-ness. This is most commonly expressed through the brand’s dials, which frequently pay homage to different elements of Japanese nature or culture. Some of the best of these are their Presage Arita Porcelain pieces, which feature … ContinuedThe post Is the Seiko Presage SPB445 the best Arita Porcelain dial watch yet? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.