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Results for Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Reference Points: The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Wristwatch Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Wristwatch You could Jul 23, 2026

Reference Points: The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Wristwatch

You could make the argument that, among all brands, models, and complications, the Patek Philippe split-seconds wristwatch is one of the most overlooked, underappreciated, and least understood in any catalog. "That's because no one ever sees them," said Ben, when I made that very argument in the office recently. True. It's hard to call a watch underappreciated when the entry point for buying one is in the low six figures. But let me explain. The Patek Philippe ref. 5373. Think about this: the first chronograph wristwatch Patek ever made was a split-seconds. The first. Oh, and it was the first made by any brand. And while people are clamoring for perpetual calendar references like the 2497, 3448, and 3940, Patek has made at least 44 different perpetual calendar wristwatch models over the years (not counting different case materials, gems, or the 3971). How many serially-produced split-seconds references? Well, about 12 or 13, depending on how you count them.  It wasn't until recently that the reference 5004—the first modern serially produced perpetual calendar split-second watch from Patek—began to receive its due at auction, and it finally broke a 13-year-old record for the reference. A 1436, the first serially produced rattrapante, can still be had for less than an F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu. That, frankly, is ridiculous. They're rare birds, and it's all the more impressive that we have nine of them on the table today, all from the same owner. The Patek Philippe r...

Fratello Talks: How Our Grail Watches Have Evolved Over Time Fratello
Jul 23, 2026

Fratello Talks: How Our Grail Watches Have Evolved Over Time

Ask any seasoned collector what his or her grail watch was upon first entering the hobby, and chances are the answer will be very different from what it is today. As our knowledge grows and our tastes mature, so too do the watches we aspire to own. Sometimes the grail gets bigger, sometimes it gets […] Visit Fratello Talks: How Our Grail Watches Have Evolved Over Time to read the full article.

Breitling Goes Back to Its Racing Roots with Three New Top Time Models Celebrating the Iconic Aston Martin DB5 Worn & Wound
Breitling Goes Back Jul 22, 2026

Breitling Goes Back to Its Racing Roots with Three New Top Time Models Celebrating the Iconic Aston Martin DB5

Breitling is no stranger to a racing inspired watch. Its history with the sport traces back to the debut of its Top Time collection back in 1964. Over the years the brand has most notably worked with Bentley Motors to create automotive-inspired wristwatches and dashboard-style clocks. In addition, we’ve seen Breitling commemorate several iconic models through its Top Time Classic Cars line, like the Ford Mustang, Chevrolet Corvette, and Shelby Cobra. Earlier this year, Breitling made a pivot, announcing it was teaming up with Aston Martin and the Aston Martin Aramco Formula One Team as the official watch partner. The duo’s first timepiece was the limited-edition Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 with a titanium case, carbon-fiber dial, and Aston Martin racing green accents. Now, we get another edition as Breitling gets back to its original racing roots with three new Top Time models that pay tribute to the Aston Martin DB5. The DB5 hailed from the same era as the original Top Time and was first introduced by Aston Martin in 1963. The model became one of the most iconic cars to grace the silver screen, namely films in the James Bond franchise, and cemented the luxury carmaker’s place in both automotive and pop culture history. Today, the two brands bring this spirit of the 60s into the modern era with the new Top Time B01 Chronograph 41 Tribute to Aston Martin DB5 in a trio of limited editions. The details of the new designs marry the codes of both makers with both tactile...

We Had It So Good: The IWC Mark XV And The Rolex Explorer Ref. 114270 Fratello
Rolex Explorer Ref 114270 Put Jul 22, 2026

We Had It So Good: The IWC Mark XV And The Rolex Explorer Ref. 114270

Put an IWC Mark XV next to a Rolex Explorer ref. 114270 on a table, and you might wonder why anyone would bother comparing them. One is a Schaffhausen pilot’s watch built around a military lineage. The other is Rolex’s purest expression of the no-nonsense sports watch, worn by mountaineers and geologists long before it […] Visit We Had It So Good: The IWC Mark XV And The Rolex Explorer Ref. 114270 to read the full article.

Hands On: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux Jul 22, 2026

Hands On: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux

Parmigiani Fleurier (PF) continues its exploration of “mysterious complications” with the Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux, a fully functional and surprisingly legible chronograph that is indistinguishable from a normal three-hand watch — until it isn’t. Pressing the conveniently placed chronograph monopusher summons a chronograph on demand, fully equipped with central minutes and hour totalisers, which disappears just as easily. Despite being one of the most ambitious chronographs on the market, it is priced relatively accessibly, at least in steel. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Chronographe Mystérieux is nearly indistinguishable from a normal three-hand watch, unless you spot the pair of rose gold hands secreted under the mean time hands. Depressing the chronograph button at eight o’clock causes these, along with the sweep seconds hand, to fly back to zero and being timing intervals up to 12 hours. The concept is not unlike that of the Maurice Lacroix Memoire 1, little-known halo piece that debuted in 2007 for EUR300,000. The Chronographe Mystérieux would work the same way without its hour and minutes hands, but their presence ensures the user can still read the time when the chronograph is running. The result is a highly legible dial, enhanced with an almost excessively fine grain d’orge guilloché that, like the undersized 18k gold hour markers, gets out of the way of the hands. At launch, PF offers two variants of the Chronographe Mystérieux ...

Photo Report: Tudor and Red Bull Take to the Skies Worn & Wound
Tudor Jul 21, 2026

Photo Report: Tudor and Red Bull Take to the Skies

If there’s one thing I’ve learned from being in the watch industry, it’s that you never know when you’ll have the opportunity to do something unique, and that saying “yes” to something without having all of the details might result in a rare, or even once in a lifetime experience. With that in mind, let me set the stage for how I found myself 1,000 feet above Manhattan in a 1958 DC-6B, piloted by The Flying Bulls. Early this month, I received a rather vague invitation to a ”Red Bull Flying Bulls thing with Tudor” immediately after returning from our Chicago Windup Watch Fair, and that it “involves a very early morning flight on a very old plane”. While I’d usually ask a million questions and try to get every detail that I could before committing to something, in the interest of being just a touch more spontaneous, I couldn’t respond “I’m intrigued, count me in” fast enough.  As we got closer to the event, I’d come to learn that the “old plane” in question was a beautifully restored 1958 DC-6B and the “very early morning” meant arriving at the Meatpacking Tudor Boutique at 7 AM. Once everyone arrived, our small crew began heading up to White Plains FBO, which I later learned was named Million Air. Not long into the ride, we were presented with a briefcase of loaner watches, ranging from the Tudor Ranger in 36mm “Dune” and 39mm “Black”, or the Black Bay 58 GMT on either the new five link bracelet or classic rubber strap. While...

In-Depth: IWC’s Pioneering ProSet Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
IWC s Pioneering ProSet Perpetual Jul 21, 2026

In-Depth: IWC’s Pioneering ProSet Perpetual Calendar

IWC’s history is dotted with landmark innovations such as Albert Pellaton’s pawl winding system, Kurt Klaus’ famous perpetual calendar, and Richard Habring’s split-seconds chronograph module; the ProSet perpetual calendar system continues this legacy. This bidirectional perpetual calendar module made its debut earlier this year at Watches & Wonders inside the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet, and remains true to IWC’s identity as an engineer’s manufacture. A smaller Big Pilot QP The Big Pilot ProSet unveiled at Watches & Wonders blends the manufacture’s latest engineering feat with the beloved styling of the pilot’s watch. The ProSet system is currently only available inside the 42 mm Big Pilot. Powered by a downsized base calibre, the 42 mm ProSet is the first Big Pilot under 46 mm to include a perpetual calendar. IWC has a tweaked and scaled down the its signature Kurt Klaus module in the past for the 42 mm Portugieser and some Portofinos, but somehow it never made into the reduced Big Pilot collection. Unfortunately, these smaller watches lacked the now-iconic digital year display, and instead featured a subtler (but more forgettable) leap cycle aperture. The ProSet brings back the four-digit year display, making this watch almost indistinguishable from the original 46 mm version. Apart from some styling choices, the main difference in the displays is the lack of a power reserve indicator. The cal. 82665 inside is powered by a single mains...

Introducing - American Indie Watchmaker RGM Launches the Model 151 Snoopy Flying Ace Monochrome
RGM Jul 20, 2026

Introducing - American Indie Watchmaker RGM Launches the Model 151 Snoopy Flying Ace

RGM Watch Company has never been a brand to chase trends or pop culture. Founded in 1992 by Roland G. Murphy in Pennsylvania, the brand has built its reputation on traditional watchmaking, producing around 400 watches annually while preserving crafts such as engine turning, movement decoration, and even in-house calibre production. Its latest release, however, […]

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin 'Twin Beat' Perpetual Calendar Returns Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Jul 20, 2026

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin 'Twin Beat' Perpetual Calendar Returns

When Vacheron Constantin announced the original Twin-Beat at SIHH in 2019, I wasn't in the watch space in the same way I am now. I was also focused on a much different price point—the one I shop in, not the one that I've since become fascinated by. So I missed it. A lot of people did, it seems. I don't think this watch, as interesting as it is/was as a first release, was made in particularly large numbers, and for over a year, I heard rumblings about the eventual return of the Twin-Beat. Well, it's here. It's improved. And yes, in the metal, it's both entertaining and impressive. But what is it? Essentially, the watch leverages two balances that beat at different rates to provide either 4 days of power reserve running at 5Hz or 70 days in standby mode at 1.2Hz. Oh, and it's a perpetual calendar as well. We covered the technical aspects back in 2019, so this will focus more on the watch as a revived model. The technical is the key here, but the form factor is impressive as well. A perpetual calendar, with dual balances, measuring 42mm and 12.3mm thick, it's hefty because of the platinum case, but it wears quite well despite the technicality. Vacheron has a tendency to make some impressively complicated watches and, unfortunately, make them quite large in the process. This would never have been a problem in the old days (especially for brands like Patek, which dominated this high-end, integrated complication space), but then again, the specifications of the old days don't ...

Hands-on - Minerva The Unveiled Crownless, Rethinking One of Watchmaking’s Simplest Controls Monochrome
Ming two essential tasks winding Jul 17, 2026

Hands-on - Minerva The Unveiled Crownless, Rethinking One of Watchmaking’s Simplest Controls

The crown is one of those watch components we rarely think much about. It has been there for well over a century, mainly performing two essential tasks: winding the movement and setting the time. We now have all sorts of crowns, including hidden crowns and even retractable crowns, yet very few have questioned whether any […]

The Top 5 Current Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Models Fratello
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Models Another Jul 17, 2026

The Top 5 Current Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Models

Another Friday, another list! This week, we dive into the world of the modern Rolex Daytona. It’s one of the most debated watches among watch enthusiasts. Whether it’s about the Daytona’s aura, the fact that it’s become an unobtainium, or its design, people have a lot to say about The Crown’s iconic chronograph. Despite all […] Visit The Top 5 Current Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Models to read the full article.

Auctions: Phillips Announces Sale Of A Pre-Production  F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance In November Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Jul 17, 2026

Auctions: Phillips Announces Sale Of A Pre-Production  F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance In November

Here we go again. It's been a blue ribbon auction year so far, particularly for rare examples of timepieces from independents, including F.P. Journe. During a record-setting spring auction season marked by a stunning shift in valuations and collector interest in top-notch independent watchmakers, an early Chronomètre à Résonance (no. 007) fetched a record $13.9 million, making it the most expensive F.P. Journe watch ever sold at auction and the fifth most expensive watch of all time.  Mark wrote up a great piece on the record-breaking result that dives deep into the history of the Résonance and why it's such an important achievement in haute horology, and why it is François-Paul Journe's signature watch. With the prototype produced in 1998, and with 'Souscription' commercial pieces produced and delivered beginning in 2000, Journe's Chronomètre à Résonance marks the first time that the concept of "résonance," combining two movements with separate balances into a single case and bringing them into perfect synchronization, was brought to a wristwatch. For many collectors, the model represents the ultimate expression of Journe's vision and talent as a watchmaker. Just 20 'Souscription' pieces—offered to those who bought Journe's first watch, a tourbillon—were produced, and collectors have come to covet the series, with the earliest watches fetching a premium. When it comes to the Résonance, the earlier the better, it seems. That's why it's newsworthy and worth ...

Cousin Greg teams up with Shinola, a rare Rolex Rainbow Daytona hits AU auction, MB&F; continues its MADness Time+Tide
Rolex Rainbow Daytona hits AU Jul 17, 2026

Cousin Greg teams up with Shinola, a rare Rolex Rainbow Daytona hits AU auction, MB&F; continues its MADness

As Centre Court packed away another fortnight of strawberries, sunshine and relentless television close-ups of celebrity watch spotting, Jannik Sinner finally lifted the Wimbledon gentlemen’s singles trophy to cap off a superb tournament. Elsewhere, it wasn’t quite such a triumphant week for English football fans, whose World Cup dreams came to an abrupt halt this … Continued

Is It Worth It? - The Praised But Underrated Seiko Marinemaster 300 Fratello
Seiko Marinemaster 300 I had Jul 17, 2026

Is It Worth It? - The Praised But Underrated Seiko Marinemaster 300

I had already been running Fratello for a decade when Mike Stockton asked me in 2014 why we didn’t cover Seiko more often. It’s not that I ignored it on purpose; I was just more focused on Swiss and German brands. Slightly pushed by him, I bought my first Seiko watch. It was a Seiko […] Visit Is It Worth It? — The Praised But Underrated Seiko Marinemaster 300 to read the full article.

Video - Inside Schwarz Etienne, Discovering its History and Its Impressive In-House Watchmaking Capacities Monochrome
Schwarz Etienne Discovering Jul 16, 2026

Video - Inside Schwarz Etienne, Discovering its History and Its Impressive In-House Watchmaking Capacities

Headquartered in a beautiful century-old villa in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the fascinating watch brand Schwarz Etienne is your typical independent watchmaking company. The company’s origins date back to 1902, when founding husband-and-wife Paul-Arthur Schwartz and Olga Etienne got married. From then on, the company would grow continuously, with the descendants of the founding duo also […]

Organic Second-Hand Horology: The Joys of Uncovering a Used Gem at a Local Shop or Sale Worn & Wound
Timex pieces found Jul 16, 2026

Organic Second-Hand Horology: The Joys of Uncovering a Used Gem at a Local Shop or Sale

Finding a watch at your local Goodwill or community rummage sale sparks a certain kind of euphoria in a watch collector that’s hard to capture from any other source or stimulus. My watch collecting journey started at a local flea market with two Timex pieces found in a basket of old silverware, buttons, and thimbles. At age twelve, I still can’t identify what made those watches stick out to me like sore thumbs––or why I decided to invest my hard-earned leftover $5 allowance money on them––but that feeling like I discovered a diamond in the rough is a high I continue to chase into the present day. Why does finding and purchasing a watch second-hand from a local sale or thrift store feel so incredibly rewarding? To support my theories with some examples, I invite you to take a trip down my own personal memory lane and look at some of the timepieces I’ve picked up at thrift stores, yard, garage, rummage, estate, and community sales throughout my years of collecting. For those keen-eyed readers out there, you may have noticed I skipped over a classic locale for second-hand goods: antique stores. I want to save that lengthy discussion for another day, as there is a far deeper discussion into the idea of price vs. value vs. availability that will take far longer than a side tangent to be included here. Putting antiques aside for another day, let’s discuss what makes a thrift find feel so valuable. The Thrifty State of Mind Everyone loves a good deal. Do I really ...

Introducing - The Bremont Supernova Hawking Limited Edition Monochrome
Bremont Supernova Hawking Limited Edition Jul 16, 2026

Introducing - The Bremont Supernova Hawking Limited Edition

The launch of the Supernova collection earlier this year marked a new direction for British brand Bremont, introducing a bold integrated sports chronograph inspired by spacecraft engineering and destined to become the first watch left permanently on the Moon. Still looking to the stars, Bremont presents the Supernova Hawking Limited Edition, which uses the Supernova […]

Fratello Talks: Watches Every Collector Should Own At Least Once Fratello
Jul 16, 2026

Fratello Talks: Watches Every Collector Should Own At Least Once

All watch collectors’ journeys are different. Some focus on a single brand, while others enjoy exploring as many corners of the hobby as possible. Still, there are certain watches (or even categories of watches) that many enthusiasts seem to encounter sooner or later. They may not become permanent fixtures in every collection, but they often […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watches Every Collector Should Own At Least Once to read the full article.

Retrospective: My One-Of-One Pragotron × UDC Porsche 911 SC Coffee Timer Fratello
Jul 15, 2026

Retrospective: My One-Of-One Pragotron × UDC Porsche 911 SC Coffee Timer

It has been almost a year since my last article, so no pressure at all! “It has to be an epic comeback,” I told myself as one month flew into another. There were many watch candidates with unusual stories, but getting back to writing became harder and harder each week. As it usually goes, that […] Visit Retrospective: My One-Of-One Pragotron × UDC Porsche 911 SC Coffee Timer to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Watches, Brands, And Styles We Like But Would Probably Never Buy Fratello
Jul 14, 2026

Fratello On Air: Watches, Brands, And Styles We Like But Would Probably Never Buy

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss watch brands, models, and styles that we like but would probably never buy. To be clear, this episode isn’t about picking on anyone or anything. Instead, there are other reasons these pieces aren’t on our wrists and may never be. This podcast player […] Visit Fratello On Air: Watches, Brands, And Styles We Like But Would Probably Never Buy to read the full article.

First Look - The new Yema Navygraf Barracuda CMM.20 Limited Edition, Developed with the French Navy Monochrome
Yema Navygraf Barracuda CMM.20 Limited Jul 14, 2026

First Look - The new Yema Navygraf Barracuda CMM.20 Limited Edition, Developed with the French Navy

Yema seems to be focused on combining its historic dive watch designs with more sophisticated mechanics, especially since the arrival of the manufacture CMM.20 micro-rotor calibre. Following the Navygraf Slim CMM.20 and the Navygraf Pearl CMM.20, the French brand now introduces a more specialised interpretation of its vintage-inspired diver. Made together with the French Marine […]

Hands-On: the Split GMT Worn & Wound
Citizen s movement factory earlier Jul 13, 2026

Hands-On: the Split GMT

The longer I navigate my watch journey, the more I realize it’s a bit like dating. You get a press kit and metaphorically swipe left or right in a very judging-the-book-by-its-cover type of way. The aesthetics are often the first thing to draw you in and make you curious or to turn you away. In either case, as a good journalist, I’m usually compelled to read the press release and gather a bit more information, skim the profile if you will. I can fully admit aesthetics are highly subjective, but substance is vital. Still, I can’t fully assess a watch without going hands-on. Images can either disappoint or not quite do justice to a design, and the promises spelled out in specs need to be put to the test. Seeing a watch is the real make or break moment to determine if we’re a perfect match. I recently went through this dating ritual with Split watches, a London-based independent brand making its U.S. debut with a new GMT. A few things really stood out to me when I first received the announcement. The look of the watches was interesting, combining unique design elements, shapes, and colors. Reading about the vision behind the design was poetic, drawing from elements of music and nature – two of my favorite sources of inspiration. The watches are powered by the Miyota 9075 true GMT movement – calibers I’ve developed even more appreciation for after visiting Citizen’s movement factory earlier this year.  Beyond the watches themselves, I was equally impressed wit...