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Zenith Introduces the El Primero A386 “One-Off” in Platinum SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Oct 1, 2019

Zenith Introduces the El Primero A386 “One-Off” in Platinum

With this year being the 50th anniversary of its defining movement, Zenith has unveiled several limited editions to mark the occasion, including a three-piece set and a remake of the El Primero A386 in 18k gold. Now the ultimate anniversary watch has just been announced: the one-of-a-kind El Primero A386 in platinum with a lapis lazuli dial, and a 50-year warranty. This one-off watch – it’s marked as such on the case back – was designed in collaboration with Phillips, the auctioneer led by Livia Russo and Aurel Bacs. And the watch will be sold by Phillips in November, with all proceeds going to a Swiss charity that helps children with cancer. It’s the first ever El Primero in platinum, and also the first with a lapis lazuli dial. Commenting in the announcement, Zenith chief executive Julien Tornare states unequivocally: “This will be the first and sole El Primero in platinum.” Materials aside, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard A386 remake. The case is 38mm, fitted with sapphire crystals front and back, while the movement is the El Primero 400. Key facts Diameter: 38mm Material: Platinum Water resistance: 50m Dial: Lapis lazuli Movement: El Primero 400 Functions: Time, chronograph, date Frequency: 36,000bph, or 5Hz Winding: Automatic Power reserve: 50 hours Strap: Blue calfskin Price and availability The Zenith El Primero A386 in platinum will be sold at the Geneva Watch Auction: X that takes place on November 9-10, 2019. It has n...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Aquanaut Singapore 2019 Ref. 5167A-012 (With Pricing) SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Sep 27, 2019

Patek Philippe Introduces the Aquanaut Singapore 2019 Ref. 5167A-012 (With Pricing)

Since its introduction in 2007, the popularity of the Aquanaut 5167A has followed on the coattails of the Nautilus Ref 5711/1A. And now for the occasion of the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore, Patek Philippe has unveiled a special-edition Aquanaut ref. 5167A-012 with red accents and a red strap. The dial features the Aquanaut’s traditional chequerboard motif, but with red minute markers and a red central hand. The addition of colour is a nod to Singapore’s flag, which is red and white. Though the cosmetic changes are minimal, the overall effect of which is nonetheless striking and appealing. Depth rated to 120m, the case remains 40mm in diameter and is paired with a red composite strap. It houses the cal. 324 S C, which is visible through a sapphire case back that has been printed with the inscription “Patek Philippe Singapore 2019”. The cal. 324 S C is the brand’s central-rotor automatic movement that is fairly ordinary but attractively finished. It offers a short 35- to 45-hour power reserve, and as with all of Patek Philippe’s current movements, it is fitted with a Gyromax balance wheel, which is essentially a free-sprung, adjustable mass balance, as well as a silicon Spiromax hairspring. Key facts Diameter: 40mm Height: 8.1mm Material: Stainless steel Water-resistance: 120m Movement: cal. 324 S C Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; date Winding: Self-winding Frequency: 28,800bph, or 4Hz Power reserve: 35 to 45 hours Strap: Red composite Pr...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Singapore 2019 Ref. 5303R (With Price) SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Sep 27, 2019

Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Singapore 2019 Ref. 5303R (With Price)

Of the special edition watches created for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019, one is entirely new, and it also happens to be the most complicated – the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Singapore 2019 Ref. 5303R-010. The model reference reveals the key design feature of the watch, like the preceding ref. 5304R, the new watch has no dial, so the mechanics below are revealed in all their glory. This creates a first for a Patek Philippe wristwatch – it shows the tourbillon regulator at six o’clock, something that has historically been hidden on the back of all wristwatch tourbillons. Protecting the tourbillon The rationale for hiding the tourbillon from view was to prevent exposure to UV light, which can ostensibly break down the lubricants that keep the tourbillon in optimum running condition. Consequently, the sapphire disc over the tourbillon regulator has a UV protection coating to prevent the lubricants from being exposed to sunlight. A reworked movement The new ref. 5303R is powered by the R TO 27 PS movement, which combines a minute repeater and tourbillon. Though it’s based on the longstanding cal. R 27, the movement was significantly reengineered to show off the striking mechanism under the dial. Amongst the changes are a larger base plate, as well as a rearrangement of the hammers and gongs, which required 20 new components to be added. Interestingly, the hammers have been slightly ground down around the edges that point towards the hands, so as ...

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Review WatchAdvice
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Review Sep 26, 2019

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Review

We recently had the opportunity to spend a weekend with the white dial Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, thanks to Omega Australia. Although this model was released in March this year at Time To Move 2019, the watch isn’t available for purchase just yet – so this was the first time I’ve had the chance to see it in the metal. The white dial variant of the Seamaster Diver 300M was an addition to the existing collection, and somewhat of a sleeper when launched, so I’ve been hanging to get some hands-on time with the timepiece. First impressions The white Seamaster Diver 300M is a handsome watch. The design is modern and forward-looking, at a time when a lot of dive watches are still looking to their past for inspiration. The build quality is impressive, and the price is right. If you’re a fan of dive watches, I highly recommend you check out the highly versatile Omega Seamaster Diver 300M collection, which is a compelling proposition in the $5,000 – $10,000 dive watch category. The case The stainless steel case comes in at 42mm, and 20mm between the lugs. On wrist, the case is comfortable, and hugs nicely. The Seamaster Diver 300M wears slightly smaller than your typical 42mm watch, which is due to the shorter lugs that balance out the larger case. Housed inside is the Omega Master Chronometer Calibre 8800, a self-winding movement, with METAS approval. Boasting a capable 55-hour power reserve, the Calibre 8800 is visible through a sapphire crystal display caseback. The ...

The Mysterious Rolex Daytona Zenith “Luna Rossa” at Sotheby’s SJX Watches
Zenith Luna Rossa” Sep 23, 2019

The Mysterious Rolex Daytona Zenith “Luna Rossa” at Sotheby’s

The most talked-about watch at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong is lot 2300, a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona powered by a Zenith El Primero movement that’s described as “a possibly unique… chronograph wristwatch with a red dial”. And as with all high-profile watches, the auctioneers have given the watch an Italian nickname, “Luna Rossa”, which translates as “red moon”. The reason the “Luna Rossa” is controversial is because such a red dial has never ever been seen before. Usually unicorns are known and whispered about, even if seldom seen, but the “Luna Rossa” has surprised everyone. Experts and insiders I approached have neither encountered nor heard of such a dial, which makes it quite a revelation. But they all agree it is correct – in the sense that all elements are identical to known Rolex dials of the period – though of unknown origin. Sotheby’s itself hasn’t provided much background about the watch, either officially or unofficially. Unlike the unique platinum Daytona “Zenith” that Sotheby’s sold last year, setting a record price for a modern Daytona, which had a backstory that was I managed to uncover, the “Luna Rossa” remains a mystery. The dial is glossy red lacquer, with gold indices and sub-dials When such unusual dials emerge, the immediate question is one of authenticity. The “Luna Rossa” passes the test – the dial is correct in its details. The element usually regarded as crucia...

Habring² Introduces the Salmon Collection SJX Watches
Casio nally Sep 16, 2019

Habring² Introduces the Salmon Collection

Austrian watchmaker Habring2, highly regarded for its smart, affordable watches, has just revealed the Salmon collection. The new line-up is made up of all of the brand’s key models, but with each watch now offered with a salmon dial. Once found occasionally on vintage watches and now a popular shade for that reason, salmon dials are a novelty for Habring2,  led by husband and wife team Richard and Maria Habring. The brand typically offers its watches in more straightforward shades of silver, blue, black or grey. The salmon colour Habring2 opted for is a strong pink, closer to salmon than copper or pink gold. Here are a few photos of the watches “in the metal” supplied by the Habrings to show how the salmon dials vary in tone depending on the light. The top of the line model is the Perpetual Doppel, recently launched to mark the brand’s 15thanniversary. Its salmon dial is combined with silvered numerals and blued steel hands, the only model in the Salmon collection with heat-blued hands. The range also includes the entry-level, time-only Felix as well as the single-button Chrono-Felix. Both measure only 38.5mm in diameter, and are also the amongst the thinnest watches made by Habring2. And the more complicated models are the Doppel Felix split-seconds chronograph with its “bullhead” pusher layout, and the inventive COS Felix. Short for “crown operated system”, the COS chronograph is activated entirely via the crown, which is turned either forwards o...

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monaco “The Hour Glass” – The Dark Lord Revived SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Monaco “The Hour Glass” Sep 10, 2019

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monaco “The Hour Glass” – The Dark Lord Revived

The latest anniversary edition for Singapore’s largest watch retailer has just dropped: the Monaco “The Hour Glass” is derived from the Monaco Calibre 11 launched at Baselworld 2015. But it combines the style of the 1970s with a modern twist, mixing a high-contrast, all-black case paired with a beige dial and red accents. Think of it as a modern take on the desirable Monaco “Dark Lord”. Unapologetically square Designed by Jack Heuer and named after the Formula 1 race on the principality, the Monaco was powered by the one of the first automatic chronograph movements, the Chronomatic cal. 11. But its true claim to fame is Steve McQueen, who wore one in Le Mans, making the original Monaco ref. 1133B with its distinctive blue dial something of an icon. Steven McQueen in Le Mans More crucially, the Monaco was the first water-resistant square watch when it was launched on March 3, 1969. This was achieved with the use of a one-piece inner case – essentially a square capsule containing the movement and dial – secured to the outer case with a notched system that created a tension seal. It was produced by Ervin Piquerez, a case maker best known for its “Super Compressor” dive watch cases, which received a patent for its landmark, square invention. The unusual Monaco case as illustrated by a “Dark Lord” – outer case in black PVD, and inner case in brushed steel And inside the case sat the Chronomatic cal. 11, a movement that was one of three ...

3 No-Nonsense GMT Watches From Blancpain, Montblanc, And Porsche Design That Will Keep You Traveling In Style Quill & Pad
Porsche Design Sep 6, 2019

3 No-Nonsense GMT Watches From Blancpain, Montblanc, And Porsche Design That Will Keep You Traveling In Style

For watch aficionados, GMT may as well mean “grand, magnificent, and timeless” for it offers the convenience of indicating two time zones on one dial. While today we can see all 36 time zones from every mobile phone, that doesn’t diminish the joy of a dual time zone timepiece. Here Sabine Zwettler highlights three no-nonsense GMT watches that each represent the sophistication of second time zone indications in their very own way. Enjoy their classic travel-time designs pared down to the essential!

VIDEO: The perfect gentleman – Tissot’s Gentleman Automatic Time+Tide
Tissot s Gentleman Automatic Sep 4, 2019

VIDEO: The perfect gentleman – Tissot’s Gentleman Automatic

In the field of watch design there’s a lot to be said for restraint. Not every dial needs to be flashy, nor every case overwrought. Sometimes, all you need - all you want even - is a watch that looks good (no matter what), and can do anything, or at least anything most normal people … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The perfect gentleman – Tissot’s Gentleman Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Two tones and a sprinkling of diamond – the  Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Time+Tide
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Sep 1, 2019

Two tones and a sprinkling of diamond – the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41

Editor’s note: Steel sports is all well and good, but there’s something very appealing about the iconic Datejust in this steel and gold livery, with a warm brown dial and diamond hour markers. Especially with that bezel and band. Primo …  There are two main contenders for the title of ‘most recognisable watch in the … ContinuedThe post Two tones and a sprinkling of diamond – the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Master Collection Moonphase SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Aug 28, 2019

Longines Introduces the Master Collection Moonphase

Longines’ Master Collection excels at entry-level complications that are affordably priced – last year’s annual calendar is a great buy – and the latest in the range is a moon phase and date. The Master Collection Moonphase is a watch that’s clear in what it wants to to. Aside from the time, it has a pointer date and moon indicators in a sub-dial at six, for a clean and symmetrical dial. The Master Collection Moonphase ref. L2.919.4.78.3 It’s powered by the L899 movement, an automatic based on the ETA A31.L91, which is an upgraded version of the common ETA 2892. The most obvious functional upgrade is the extended 64-hour power reserve, achieved in part by reducing the beat rate of the balance wheel from 4Hz to 3.5Hz. Like many other models in the Master Collection, the new moon phase is offered in two cases sizes – 40mm and 42mm – both in stainless steel. Dial options are silvered barleycorn guilloche, black barleycorn, or sun-ray brushed metallic blue. The smaller, 40mm case is also offered with brilliant-cut diamond hour markers on all dial styles. The Master Collection Moonphase 42mm The ref. L2.909.4.97.0 with diamond markers Key facts Diameter: 40mm or 42mm Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 30m Movement: L899 Functions: Hours, minutes, second, moon phase and date Winding: Automatic Frequency: 25,200bph, or 3.5Hz Power reserve: 64 hours Strap: Leather strap or steel bracelet Price: US$2,350 for all versions, US$2,750 for the 40...

HANDS-ON: The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds in black Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Aug 16, 2019

HANDS-ON: The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds in black

A. Lange & Söhne’s Richard Lange Jumping Seconds is a real insider watch. From the dial it looks much like many other Lange watches, but really, it’s something quite special. It’s a watch that’s been around since 2016, but this year we were treated to a chic new version, in white gold with a black … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds in black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The DOXA Chronograph – as good as their divers? Time+Tide
Doxa Chronograph – as good Aug 11, 2019

The DOXA Chronograph – as good as their divers?

Editor’s note: Everyone knows Doxa make a great dive watch, but not as many people know they also produced excellent chronographs in the 1940s and ’50s. This is the story of one of those watches, a black dial Doxa chronograph with a spiral telemeter scale, worth significantly more than the €1200 Paul originally laid down … ContinuedThe post The DOXA Chronograph – as good as their divers? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Unfathomably inky – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Aug 6, 2019

Unfathomably inky – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept

Editor’s note: Without doubt, the most popular dial colour for men’s watches is black. So, here’s the blackest, darkest dial we can think of - the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept. To find out why this watch is so impossibly dark of dial, read on …  Few colours have the symbolic weight … ContinuedThe post Unfathomably inky – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Looking through Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Double Aug 4, 2019

Looking through Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked

Editor’s note: Make no bones about it, skeleton watches are not to everyone’s taste. Legibility is sometimes less clear than a watch with a solid dial, but this is because time telling is almost ancillary to the stunning exposé that the watch offers. A skeleton dial offers a view typically reserved for a watchmaker in … ContinuedThe post Looking through Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton X in Carbonium Gold Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton X Aug 3, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton X in Carbonium Gold

With a name that sounds like it comes straight from the Marvel Cinematic Universe, it should come as no surprise that the watch looks more than a little out of this world.  First of all there’s the dial - or rather the lack of it. Because as you might guess with a name like “Skeleton … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton X in Carbonium Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You might have missed these 6 excellent new watches – these are the sleeper hits of 2019 Time+Tide
Aug 2, 2019

You might have missed these 6 excellent new watches – these are the sleeper hits of 2019

A lot of new watches are released every year. Big brands will often release 100 or more new unique variants (and fair enough, different dial/strap/material, etc take up a lot of this space), but even so, it’s fair to say that not every new watch gets its time in the sun. Sometimes that’s OK, as … ContinuedThe post You might have missed these 6 excellent new watches – these are the sleeper hits of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

BUSINESS NEWS: Why the Swatch Group has millions of watches sitting in warehouses Time+Tide
Longines Jul 29, 2019

BUSINESS NEWS: Why the Swatch Group has millions of watches sitting in warehouses

The Swatch Group have published their 2019 Half-Year Report, revealing some interesting information. The group has reported an increase in their inventory levels, which include components, movements and watches, to a total of 7.1 billion Swiss francs (up 2.6 per cent from 2018). More broadly, the group, which owns brands such as Tissot, Longines and … ContinuedThe post BUSINESS NEWS: Why the Swatch Group has millions of watches sitting in warehouses appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Blue “The Hour Glass” SJX Watches
De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Blue Jul 24, 2019

Hands-On: De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Blue “The Hour Glass”

De Bethune is the latest amongst a number of watchmakers to take the covers off a commemorative edition to mark the 40th anniversary of Singapore watch retail powerhouse The Hour Glass. For the occasion, De Bethune has put together a variant of its signature DB28 with sprung lugs that’s entirely clad in brilliant, blued titanium. First unveiled in polished titanium in 2018, the Steel Wheels is essentially a DB28 wearing a little less. A partially open-worked dial – which is actually the delta-shaped barrel bridge – reveals its pair of skeletonised barrels and gears. While the original Steel Wheels captures the essence of De Bethune, combining its trademark design with the brand’s fundamental technical innovations, it was lacking a generous dose of blued titanium, a gorgeous, heat-treated alloy that is synonymous with the brand. Colour consistency That has now been rectified with the DB28 Steel Wheels Blue, arguably the purest – and bluest – distillation of the brand’s core values and technical achievements. It features an intense, mirror-polished, blued titanium case and dial that form a striking contrast against the exposed inner mechanics. Though blued titanium is also used by other brands today, De Bethune was amongst the first to mirror-polish its titanium cases and more crucially, started using heat treatment to blue titanium way back in 2006. An example of an early De Bethune using blued titanium, a DB25L from 2010 with a blued dial...

The Rolex Day-Date 40, olive-green goodness Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date 40 olive-green goodness Jul 21, 2019

The Rolex Day-Date 40, olive-green goodness

Editor’s note: While #BlueWatch Monday has inspired 24,000+ posts on Instagram, I wanted to start the week with a watch in the same chromatic neighbourhood, specifically the Rolex Day-Date 40 with olive green dial. Without a doubt, this has to be one of the best-looking Day-Dates that Rolex has ever produced (yes, I said one … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Day-Date 40, olive-green goodness appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The lovely bones – Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Skeleton Titanium Blue Time+Tide
Bulgari s Octo Finissimo Skeleton Jul 17, 2019

The lovely bones – Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Skeleton Titanium Blue

Editor’s note: If you look at the profile of this Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Titanium Blue, there isn’t a lot to see. That’s because the watch is so darned thin! But the dial-side more than makes up for it, because Bulgari has cut the dial open, exposing all manner of goodness inside. Read on for … ContinuedThe post The lovely bones – Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Skeleton Titanium Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Genus GNS 1 Wristwatch SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Jul 9, 2019

Hands-On: Genus GNS 1 Wristwatch

While it’s a new brand that just made its debut, Genus is founded on the watchmaking talent of an industry insider who has spent a lifetime working on complications. Its first watch is the GNS 1 that tells the time with an ultra-exotic complication with the minutes travelling across the dial like a train. Conceptually the GNS 1 harks back to the burst of creativity that started in the early 2000s, when watchmakers went all out with imaginative complications to display the hours and minutes. This was the heyday of the Harry Winston Opus series and the birth of brands like MB&F; and Urwerk. The brand Genus was founded by entrepreneur Catherine Henry and Sébastien Billières, founder of GMTI, a specialist watchmaking workshop. The son of a watchmaker, Mr Billières started his career at Roger Dubuis in 1999, followed by a stint at Urwerk. In 2011, he set up GMTI, which specialises in primarily in assembly and servicing of complicated movements for major watch brands. Now staffed by 25 watchmakers, GMTI’s repertoire is diverse, ranging from tourbillon movements bearing the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal, to time-only movements produced on an industrial scale. Telling the time According to Mr Billières, the GNS 1 is the realisation of his long-held ambition of creating his own watch, after spending his career doing it for others. The GNS 1 is essentially an exceptionally avant-garde display of the hours and minutes. Even when static the face is impressive...