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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Zenith Dresses Its 41mm Defy Skyline In Pink For The Fight Against Breast Cancer Fratello
Zenith Dresses Oct 8, 2024

Zenith Dresses Its 41mm Defy Skyline In Pink For The Fight Against Breast Cancer

October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month. For the third year in a row, Zenith presents a limited-edition watch to support this noble cause. In 2022, the Swiss brand made a Chronomaster Original with a very pink dial. Last year was the Chronomaster Sport’s turn, and now the Zenith Defy Skyline lends its dial to raise […] Visit Zenith Dresses Its 41mm Defy Skyline In Pink For The Fight Against Breast Cancer to read the full article.

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak S “Watches of Switzerland” Crystalium SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Oct 7, 2024

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak S “Watches of Switzerland” Crystalium

One of the largest watch retailers in the world, Watches of Switzerland (WOS) marks its centenary in 2024. It has worked with several brands on limited editions for the occasion, most recently Ulysse Nardin. Based on Ulysse Nardin’s flagship Freak model, the Freak S “Watches of Switzerland Centenary Exclusive” sports a striking purple dial of crystalium, which is actually crystallised ruthenium. Starting as a single shop in 1924, WOS is now a publicly-listed group with several retail brands in its stable and annual revenue of just over US$2 billion. Its scale means that several brands have signed on to create anniversary editions for the company, including including Cartier, Bulgari, and TAG Heuer. The Freak S, however, is the most complicated of the centenary editions so far. Initial thoughts The most impressive Freak in Ulysse Nardin’s current catalogue, the Freak S scores highly in terms of construction, and innovation. Its double inclined balance wheels are a logical evolution of the original concept. In terms of aesthetics, the WOS edition is the most striking to date. The original iteration with its two-tone, rose gold-and-titanium case was perhaps old-fashioned for such a modern watch. The more recent Freak S Nomad, in contrast, presents a refined, artisanal face with a hand guilloche dial – a contrast of sci-fi watchmaking and traditional decoration. The WOS edition is uniformly sci-fi. The carousel sits on a textured, crystalline purple plate. It’s a...

A Monday-Morning Reunion With The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet Fratello
Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet Three Oct 7, 2024

A Monday-Morning Reunion With The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet

Three years ago, I had the pleasure of wearing the Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet for a little while. The combination of a 40mm steel case with a characteristic stepped bezel, a classic white dial, and a complete-calendar caliber proved an impressive watch at a competitive price. I wrote that the watch that bucks the retro […] Visit A Monday-Morning Reunion With The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet to read the full article.

Quick Look at the Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz Worn & Wound
Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz Hamilton’s Oct 4, 2024

Quick Look at the Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz

Hamilton’s Khaki line of field watches traces its lineage through the brand’s rich history of producing watches for the American and British militaries. Originally launched in the 1980s, the Khaki line has expanded to a dizzying array of references - all with a unique twist on Hamilton’s heritage.   The new Khaki Field Quartz utilizes a similar dial layout to a watch Hamilton produced for government and non-military personnel of the British armed forces in the ‘60s and ‘70s. Reinterpreted with a quartz movement in both 33mm and 38mm cases and that iconic “Khaki” text on the three dial colors, the Khaki Field Quartz may just be one of the best buys in the Khaki collection.   As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. Hamilton’s Khaki line of field watches traces its lineage through the brand’s rich history of producing watches for the American and British militaries. Originally launched in the 1980s, the Khaki line has expanded to a dizzying array of references - all with a unique twist on Hamilton’s heritage.   The new Khaki Field Quartz utilizes a similar dial layout to a watch Hamilton produced for government and non-military personnel of the British armed forces in the ‘60s and ‘70s. Reinterpreted with a quartz movement in both 33mm and 38mm cases and that iconic “Khaki” text on the three dial ...

Ressence Introduces An Updated Type 3 In Both Black And White Plus A Unique Type 1 Squared Fratello
Ressence Introduces Oct 3, 2024

Ressence Introduces An Updated Type 3 In Both Black And White Plus A Unique Type 1 Squared

Believe it or not, it has already been 11 years since Ressence introduced its oil-filled Type 3. At the time, it was the first oil-filled mechanical watch, and it debuted in both white- and black-dial versions. Today, the Belgian brand led by designer Benoît Mintiens reintroduces the black and white Type 3 with a few […] Visit Ressence Introduces An Updated Type 3 In Both Black And White Plus A Unique Type 1 Squared to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver WatchAdvice
Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Oct 3, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver

We go hands-on with the newly released Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch to see how heritage and tradition meet modern-day needs! What We Love: The textured dial and 3D markers add depth to the watch High legibility making time reading easy The easy-wearing ergonomic design What We Don’t: The bracelet clasp design is still lacking in finesse Crown placement at not quite 4 o’clock seems off-balance The closed caseback hides what would be a nice-looking movement inside Overall Rating: 8.375/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Seiko has been on a bit of a walk down memory lane with many of their releases this year, looking back at the old vintage models from the 1960s and ’70s as inspiration and reviving some of these pieces for modern-day customers. It seems that this is a little bit of a trend currently, and has accelerated over the last few years with people looking for different pieces to place on their wrists. Many brands in the watch world have gone down this path, and it does make for some great vintage homage or revival pieces and a slight break away from the norm. Seiko has some great heritage pieces, and with their latest release, Seiko has gone back over 50 years to 1968, just three years after their very first dive watch and re-incarnated it in 2024 in the form of the Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver, with a black dial and white dial variant to choose from. First Impressions We had ...

Zenith Launches their Third Limited Edition with Susan G. Komen Worn & Wound
Zenith Launches their Third Limited Oct 2, 2024

Zenith Launches their Third Limited Edition with Susan G. Komen

Zenith, for the third year in a row, has joined forces with Susan G. Komen, the world’s leading nonprofit breast cancer organization, on a limited edition watch meant to highlight the work Susan G. Komen is doing and raise money for the organization. Last year saw Zenith release a Chronomaster Sport with a light pink dial, and this year’s follow up brings the same aesthetic to the Defy Skyline.  Zenith’s efforts with Susan G. Komen are part of their larger HORIZ-ON initiative, which is a company-wide commitment to “corporate social responsibility.” These initiatives run the gamut and occur all over the world, touching local communities and broader swaths of the population. The ongoing partnership with Susan G. Komen represents “One of the key pillars of ZENITH’s HORIZ-ON initiative,” according to Zenith CEO Benoit de Clerck. The new Defy Skyline Pink is a limited edition of 100 pieces and uses the new 41mm Skyline case (in steel) as the canvas. The Defy, in my opinion, continues to be one of the most underrated sports watch lines in production at the moment. The collection has a long and fascinating heritage, with some truly innovative and provocative design in its past, and it still represents the most forward thinking arm of the Zenith brand today. The Skyline, in its relatively short history, has already proven itself to be a worthy modern successor to the great Defy references of the past.  For this pink dialed limited edition, we get all the hallmark...

Hands-On With The De Rijke & Co. Guy Allen “Land” From The Amalfi Series Fratello
De Rijke & Co Guy Allen Oct 1, 2024

Hands-On With The De Rijke & Co. Guy Allen “Land” From The Amalfi Series

What could you do to make a time-only watch distinctive? How about letting the case rotate up to 90° to adjust the dial to the ideal position when driving? You don’t even have to be a petrolhead to appreciate Dutch independent watchmaker Laurens de Rijke and his latest collaboration with Guy Allen. Designs make watches […] Visit Hands-On With The De Rijke & Co. Guy Allen “Land” From The Amalfi Series to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref 5738/1R Sep 30, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet

Patek Philippe’s new launches for 2024 included novel complications like the World Time Date ref. 5330G and a “salmon” face for the flagship perpetual calendar ref. 5236P, and also a watch that exemplifies formal simplicity, the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R-001. The new Golden Ellipse is a two-hander in the model’s largest size, but stands out for its bracelet. The only men’s watch in the current catalogue with an integrated bracelet that isn’t a Nautilus, the ref. 5738/1R has a “chain-style” bracelet made by Wellendorff, a German jeweller that has long supplied bracelets to a variety of watch brands. Initial thoughts The Ellipse is one of Patek Philippe’s trademark models but relatively under the radar, especially compared with its famous integrated-bracelet sports watch cousin designed in the same era. But the Ellipse has its appeal, particularly as a no-frills formal watch. Most commonly seen on a strap, the Ellipse feels strikingly different on a bracelet, although it is still easily recognisable. The gold bracelet evokes the mesh bracelets popular in the 1970s and gives the ref. 5738/1R a pronounced retro feel. The bracelet is finely wrought and supple. Up close, the bracelet also reveals a surprisingly intricate design that contrasts with the simplicity of the case. The fact that the bracelet is made by Wellendorff is both a strength and weakness. It has the flexibility of fine jewellery but also the open-ended clasp typical of a jewellery, instead o...

Lorca Model 2 Chronograph Review Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 24, 2024

Lorca Model 2 Chronograph Review

Sophomore releases are always tricky business. Just ask Depeche Mode, or Kiss. An innovative or evocative debut sound before the artist has really had a chance to flesh out their own voice can lead to unrealistic expectations from fans. Small, independent watch brands face a similar challenge, often expressing an exciting vision for a single watch without a firm framework to expand upon. This isn’t always the case, however, and just like Pearl Jam or The Strokes, there are some emerging watch brands with freshman success that manage an equally compelling follow-up vision. This is exactly what New York-based Lorca, founded by Swiss-Canadian Jesse Marchant, is looking to do with its new Model 2 Chronograph, hot on the heels of their popular initial release, the Model 1 GMT. The visionary behind the brand, Jesse Marchant, is also a recording artist, and is no stranger to the process. The Model 1 GMT was a revelation when it was first revealed in early 2023. The design was subtle, and the execution well considered. All the little details worked, and it was a watch that managed to find its own style and identity in a sea of watches that had neither. The Model 1 didn’t break any new ground mechanically, but it did present a unique vision that touched on multiple genre points in a cohesive manner. It also featured a somewhat polarizing bezel that would ultimately add to the depth of its character. Beyond that, the bracelet, case, and overall fit and finish of the watch unders...

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils Streamliner Chronograph in Red for Cortina SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Unveils Streamliner Sep 24, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils Streamliner Chronograph in Red for Cortina

In celebration of its partnership with its retailer in Southeast Asia, H. Moser & Cie. has created the 20-piece Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Cortina Watch. Based on its signature sports chronograph, right down to the “lobster” bracelet, the Cortina edition gets a striking red fumé dial with an “invisible” Moser logo. Initial thoughts Though the Streamliner is one of Moser’s strongest sellers, the brand hasn’t done that many limited editions of the Streamliner chronograph, so it’s not a theme that’s been overdone. As a result, the Cortina edition stands out as one of the few iterations of the model. And it also stands out in tangible terms: the red dial sets this apart from past Streamliner Chronographs that were all dressed in darker colours. At the same time, the smoked red dial is different from the usual dark blue or grey that’s the norm for integrated-bracelet sports watches. More generally, collaborative timepieces are often marked with various logos, front and back, in an unambiguous illustration of the collaboration. In case of the Cortina edition, however, subtlety wins the day. The retailer’s logo has been omitted, and even the Moser logo is barely visible on the dial. The timepiece speaks for itself, rather than the collaboration, which is a good thing. Priced at 83,000 Singapore dollars (or about US$64,000), the Streamliner Cortina edition costs about 8% more than the regular production in local currency terms (which include taxes). Given...

Minase and Fratello Collaborate for the Third Time with the New M-3 “Shiro” Worn & Wound
Minase Sep 19, 2024

Minase and Fratello Collaborate for the Third Time with the New M-3 “Shiro”

Minase, the independent Japanese watch brand, and our friends at watch media outlet Fratello have collaborated on a third edition of the brand’s cult favorite M-3. After versions in purple and green each of the last two years, this latest release strikes a more classic and refined tone. The new M-3 “Shiro” features a white lacquered dial and some subtle but well chosen accent colors, all with an eye toward traditional Japanese craft.  “Shiro” is Japanese for white, and in Japan is historically a sacred color symbolizing spiritual and physical purity. It’s a color that is frequently worn by Japanese Emperors, and comes up frequently in Shinto rituals and traditions. For this M-3, Minase has given the dial a weave-like texture that recalls the garments that might be worn in such rituals. The dial has been coated with Japanese lacquer, and the brand promises the result is a dynamic silvery color with plenty of depth.  Other callouts to Japanese culture include the red tipped second hand, a color that symbolizes good luck. The precise shade of red chosen for this edition, “Hinomaru,” translates roughly to “circle of the sun.” And the blue strap, according to Minase and Fratello, is a tribute to Japanese denim. Fratello and Minase see parallels in high craft denim to traditional watchmaking, noting that good denim, when taken care of, is meant to last a lifetime, just like a mechanical watch.  The original impetus for the Fratello x Minase collaborations ...

Introducing: Two Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar Limited Editions And A Lacquer-Dialed GMT Fratello
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Sep 19, 2024

Introducing: Two Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar Limited Editions And A Lacquer-Dialed GMT

You can find inspiration in tradition and at the bottom of your glass. Seiko found it in both places. The SPB447 is a watch in the Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series that presents itself with a glossy urushi (lacquer) dial and a GMT function displaying two time zones. Seiko also presents two new Presage Cocktail Time […] Visit Introducing: Two Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar Limited Editions And A Lacquer-Dialed GMT to read the full article.

G-SHOCK Introduces New References with 10 Year Batteries Worn & Wound
Sep 18, 2024

G-SHOCK Introduces New References with 10 Year Batteries

With the release of G-SHOCK’s latest references, you can tell that the brand is in it for the long haul. Ten years, to be exact. Yes, you read that right – G-SHOCK is promising a ten-year battery life on their latest GA-010 and GD-010 watch series. I mean, maybe we should be getting through this election cycle before we start thinking too far into the future, but if the Jetsons and those Treehouse of Horror episodes of The Simpsons indicate anything, there’s a promise of flying cars, teleporting devices, and sassy robots with a Brooklyn accent to look forward to. And, right by my side will be my old pal, my G-SHOCK. Utilizing the standard faceted case design, both collections – and all six references total – take the best of G-SHOCK technology to build a watch that is shock absorbing, extra rugged, and water resistant up to 200 meters. Between the GA-010 and GD-010 models, you’ll see that each watch offers something different. For the GD-010, you’ll find an LCD display featuring many of the standard digital features for G-SHOCK, like world time, stop watch, and an auto-calendar. The GA-010 ups the ante with a combination of both analog and digital components. Tonally speaking, these watches do a great job of being subdued without being boring. Colors among the references range from black, orange, and green (for the GD-010) to taupe, blue, and black (GA-010). This is a great design choice, considering you’ll want something that will still be in style for yea...

Bell & Ross Takes to the Skies with the BR-03 Horizon Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Takes Sep 17, 2024

Bell & Ross Takes to the Skies with the BR-03 Horizon Limited Edition

There are few things that I enjoy writing about more than a crazy new watch from Bell & Ross. These watches are catnip for me, whether it’s something along the lines of my beloved Multimeter, a watch incorporating a giant skull, or a case that gets the full lume treatment, I can’t help myself. Bell & Ross, when they’re weird, is one of my all time favorite brands, full stop. So it was with a great deal of interest that I came across the announcement of the all new BR-03 Horizon limited edition last week, the latest in the brand’s series of watches inspired by on-board aircraft instrumentation. Of course, it could be argued that any of the square cased Bell & Ross watches share this inspiration, sharing an aesthetic as they do with a kind of generic idea of a gauge that you might see in a cockpit, but the watches in this series take a more literal approach. The BR-03 Gyrocompass, for instance, has a dial that is dressed up as, well, a gyrocompass. And this limited edition, along those same lines, brings the artificial horizon to your wrist.  The artificial horizon is an essential tool for pilots, providing them with basic spatial orientation that is essential for safely piloting an aircraft. The gauge is quite simple, and shows at a quick glance an approximation of a an aircraft’s position relative to the surface of the earth. It’s particularly important for pilots flying in conditions where visibility might be an issue, such as in the dark or night or through ...

First Look – The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Japan ‘Aiiro’ Limited Editions Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Japan ‘Aiiro’ Limited Sep 16, 2024

First Look – The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Japan ‘Aiiro’ Limited Editions

Presented in 1975, the Laureato was Girard-Perregaux’s proposal of a luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet, a round dial with an octagonal bezel, a tonneau-shaped case and a quartz movement. Produced three years after the Royal Oak but well before the Nautilus, the Laureato resurfaced in 2016 with limited editions followed by serial […]

Baltic Celebrates the Opening of their NYC Showroom with Limited Edition Prismic Stone Dials Worn & Wound
Baltic Celebrates Sep 16, 2024

Baltic Celebrates the Opening of their NYC Showroom with Limited Edition Prismic Stone Dials

New today from Baltic, a trio of limited edition versions of their Prismic “cocktail watch,” each with a colorful stone dial. The watches have been announced to celebrate Baltic’s new showrooms, one exotic dial for each. The Paris showroom is tied to the lapis lazuli dial, London to red agate, and New York gets green jade (as seen in the included photos). Stone dials are clearly having a moment, with approachable and affordable stone dial editions being released by many of our favorite brands over the course of the last year or so. Once considered extremely niche (and to be fair, it’s probably still pretty niche) stone dials are now seen as a way to have something genuinely unique on the wrist, as no two dials will be exactly the same. They’re also a natural fit for the Prismic collection, which is already set apart as something a little off the beaten track from Baltic’s heritage inspired sports watches.  As is the case with most stone dials, the texture and color of each stone takes center stage with these pieces. Each watch features simple applied hour markers and brushed dauphine hands, with Baltic’s wordmark near the 12:00 position and a small seconds register at 6:00. The case is the same five part design seen on the initial Prismic releases. It measures 36mm in diameter and is composed of both stainless steel (the bezel, lugs, and caseback) and titanium (the midcase, which has a contrasting “grain” finish). The original concept of the Prismic, a t...

REVIEW: Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Carrera Silver Panda! WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Silver Panda! Combining Sep 13, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Carrera Silver Panda!

Combining classic racing heritage with modern silver charm, I go hands-on with TAG Heuer’s latest offering in their Carrera Glassbox range! What We Love: Glassbox sapphire crystal design Sunray brushed dial Multiple little details that make the watch stand out What We Don’t: The bracelet design feels too standard for a watch of this calibre The date wheel could be better colour-matched to the dial to blend in more seamlessly. Lack of micro-adjustment on the bracelet Overall Rating: 8.9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Ever since the Carrera line was first introduced into the world of horology, with the Heuer Carrera released in 1963, it has been a symbol of precision and racing heritage. When it comes to the world of luxury timepieces, very few designs boast a balance of history, style, and racing inspiration quite like the TAG Heuer Carrera. Before we dive into the review of one of TAG Heuer’s latest offerings of the Carrera this year, it’s essential to understand one of the leading design features of this timepiece: the glassbox. While the glassbox design is one that came about recently from the brand, it does have a deep-rooted history that stretches all the way back to the original 1963 Carrera Chronograph timepiece. View this post on Instagram A post shared by TAG Heuer (@tagheuer) 1963 is arguably one of the most historic years for TAG Heuer, as this is when Jack Heuer introduced the Carrera, an entirely new st...

A Unique F.P. Journe Élégante for Geneva’s MAMCO Art Museum SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Sep 6, 2024

A Unique F.P. Journe Élégante for Geneva’s MAMCO Art Museum

Continuing with its regular support for various charities around the world, F.P. Journe has created the Élégante 48 mm Titalyt MAMCO that will be sold to benefit the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art of Geneva (MAMCO) on September 18, 2024. It’s essentially a variation of the stock Élégante with an engraved bezel and a reproduction of Maurizio Nannucci’s 1994 Art on the dial. While the watch is simple, the number will be big. As an example, the one-off Élégante 48 “Pink” raised over US$400,000 for American breast cancer charity in February this year. MAMCO 30 F.P. Journe has long been a supporter of MAMCO via its sponsorship of the Prix Solo at artgenève, an annual art fair organised by the museum. The one-off Élégante was conceived to raise funds for MAMCO’s renovation, which is part of the institution’s 30th anniversary commemoration this year. Founded in 1994 by a group of prominent bankers and lawyers, MAMCO is Switzerland’s largest museum dedicated to contemporary art. Located in a former factory, MAMCO sits across from the Patek Philippe Museum, and a five minute’s walk from F.P. Journe’s manufacture. The Élégante MAMCO is the larger size of the model, measuring 48 mm lengthwise. It has a titanium case coated in Titalyt, which is essentially a ceramic layer created via chemical oxidation. The case is identical to that on the standard model, save for the bezel that is engraved with “MAMCO” and “30”, a reference to the museum...

The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition - Supporting Vulnerable Children To Make A Change For The Better Fratello
Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Sep 5, 2024

The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition - Supporting Vulnerable Children To Make A Change For The Better

To me, among all the big brands out there, Oris really sticks out. Ever since I bought my first luxury watch, the dressy Oris Art Blakey, I’ve found it charming how the brand makes everyone smile. The new Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition, a watch made in collaboration with the French Professional Football League (LFP), […] Visit The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition - Supporting Vulnerable Children To Make A Change For The Better to read the full article.