Deployant
New & Reviewed: Bell&Ross; BR-03 Chrono Rafale Solo Display
Bell & Ross takes its maiden flight with Rafale Solo Display. Introducing their latest collaboration piece, the BR-03 Chrono Rafale Solo Display.
827 articles · 4 videos found · page 4 of 28
Deployant
Bell & Ross takes its maiden flight with Rafale Solo Display. Introducing their latest collaboration piece, the BR-03 Chrono Rafale Solo Display.
Fratello
While Watches and Wonders rightfully garnered most of the attention this past April, other brands took the opportunity to show off their wares in nearby venues. Time to Watches was an event held next to Palexpo. I found myself there several times for appointments and had a particularly lovely time sitting down with Adnane Kerd, […] Visit Hands-On With The New Guebly CH1 Rétrograde to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having already revealed the Tradition “Souscription” as the first watch for its 250th anniversary, Breguet has just launched the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035. Essentially a throwback to a first-generation Tradition model, the new 7035 is set apart by its flinque enamel dial, a first for the Tradition collection. And unlike the regular-production Souscription, the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde is limited to 250 pieces. Initial thoughts While the Classique Souscription is eminently traditional (despite its case style), the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde feels more traditional Breguet with a style that is more typical of the brand’s current offerings. The enamel dial is a good way of rebooting the Tradition, which is now two decades old. And the watch itself is beautiful and still Breguet in style. However, this is arguably less interesting than the Souscription, because its only point of difference is the grand feu enamel dial for the time. Dial aside, it’s basically the preceding model in new dress. Breguet does have more in store for its 250th anniversary than a pair of Tradition models, so it’ll be worth keeping an eye on the brand as the year progresses. Tradition throwback The new Tradition is a variant of one of the first models in the collection, but upgraded with an enamel dial. The solid gold dial is decorated in flinque enamel, which is fired translucent enamel over engine turning in the Quai de l’Horloge pattern, which was developed for Breguet’...
Time+Tide
Forget Hansel... Breguet - so hot right now.The post Breguet debuts new 38mm Tradition Seconde Rétrograde for its second 250th anniversary release appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Incredible and often one-of-a-kind Rare Handcraft creations, made using artisanal techniques such as enameling, engraving, marquetry, and gem setting, were on display.
Time+Tide
A new, whimsical take on Art Deco is hoping to excite and move watch enthusiasts.The post Gagà Laboratorio goes experimental with the new Labormatic collection with a quirky time display appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bovet’s latest creation, the Récital 21, is a perpetual calendar with retrograde date presented in a modern style. The large, 44.4 mm titanium case contains tinted sapphire dial that reveals the calendar mechanism with twist: the retrograde date hand is damped so it gradually returns to the origin rather than jumping instantaneously. Initial thoughts Bovet is best known for its large complications, some of which are elaborately and intricately styled. The Récital 21 is classic Bovet, but in a slightly more approachable format. It’s a complicated watch but in a more contemporary package, especially with the sapphire dial and luminous markings. The case is (slightly) more wearable, though it has the signature sloped “writing desk” case, which is not for everyone but distinctive nonetheless. As is typical for Bovet, the movement is in-house and impressively spec’ed. Notably, it incorporates the patented co-axial double seconds (that’s visible on the front and back), and a five-day power reserve. Sapphire dial The polished titanium case is 44.4 mm in diameter. In the usual Bovet style, the case slopes downwards from 12 to six o’clock, hence the “writing desk” nickname. Though large, it has short lugs for wearability. Offered in green, blue, or brown tint, the sapphire crystal dial reveals the calendar module that’s enhanced by a damping mechanism that deliberately slows the date hand during its return. All of the calendar indications can be adjusted via ...
Time+Tide
Czapek and Fratello join forces for a second collaboration.The post Fratello and Czapek put the SXH7 on display with the Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of the most intriguing and significant watches in Christie’s upcoming Geneva auction on November 11 is Breguet no. 3218, a tonneau-shaped wristwatch with a perpetual calendar and retrograde date sold in 1935. In all likelihood the first wristwatch ever with these complications, no. 3218 is also notable for its provenance: the original owner was Paul Iribe, Coco Chanel’s romantic partner. The watch is going under the hammer with a low estimate of CHF100,000 – modest considering its significance. According to Christie’s, there are only four known wristwatches with perpetual calendar and retrograde date made in the first half of the 20th century, regardless of brand, and this is one of them. Two others were also made by Breguet, while the final example is the unique Patek Philippe ref. 96 (no. 860’182) that is the classic round Calatrava case. This watch, no. 3218, is the earliest of the four, making it likely the first-ever perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date. (Another wristwatch retrograde perpetual calendar and minute repeater is known, the Vacheron Constantin “Don Pancho” that is also tonneau-shaped.) The 18k white gold case remains well preserved Beyond its intrinsic features, no. 3218 is also historically interesting for its first owner. The watch was sold by Breguet in May 1935 – for a then-astronomical 10,000 francs – to Paul Iribe, a French designer who is perhaps most famous for being Coco Chanel’s lover. In September 1935, not...
Quill & Pad
The retrograde indication is one of Joshua Munchow's favorite “Because We Can” (BWC) complications. Gears are an amazing invention and have allowed watchmakers to make incredible creations. Simple gear systems leave a multitude of openings for creativity. Look at some great retrogrades here.
Quill & Pad
The Hautlence HLXX 20th Anniversary Edition is a limited edition of 20 pieces commemorating the brand's founding in 2004. The HLXX features a TV-shaped case with jumping hours and retrograde minutes.
Fratello
Even if you’re not a plane spotter or an aviation enthusiast, the name Red Arrows might very well ring a bell. The Red Arrows are the RAF’s legendary aerobatic display team that is celebrating its 60th display season this year. What better way to so do than with accurate formation flying, synchronized barrel rolls, and […] Visit The Red Arrows Celebrate Their 60th Display Season With Two New Breitling Avenger Watches to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Dubbed the "mysterious signature hours", DWISS presents another new, but affordable way to tell time.The post DWISS doubles down on a novel time-telling display with the M3S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Trilobe, a youthful indie watchmaker established in 2018 by Gautier Massonneau, embarked on its creative journey five years prior, germinating the seeds of innovation that would blossom into its subsequent creations. The inaugural series Les Matinaux, named after René Char’s 1950 poem collection, offered a unique “no hands”, wandering time display characterised by rotating discs […]
Monochrome
At the stroke of midnight, Chinese New Year kicks off with a magnificent display of fireworks and firecrackers to scare away evil spirits and welcome the Year of the Dragon. In true Jacob & Co. style, the brand releases a spectacular dragon-themed model on the eve of China’s most important festivity bristling with horological fireworks. […]
Time+Tide
Lewis Hamilton and IWC collaborate on a third limited-edition piece, introducing the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph Lewis HamiltonThe post IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph Lewis Hamilton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Adding to its diverse line-up of travel watches, Patek Philippe has just taken the wraps off the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R. A bold design, the ref. 5224R is Patek Philippe’s most novel travel watch to date. It is notable for having a 24-hour display inspired by the Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches made for Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau in the early twentieth century. Initial thoughts The ref. 5224R is instantly striking thanks to the high contrast between the dial colour and rose gold case, busy dial design, and large, thin case. Though it is in essence a three-hander with an extra second time zone hand, it is far more interesting, even intimidating due to the 44 applied indices that give the dial something of an instrument-like appearance. The 24-hour display elevates the quirkiness of the design, which arguably strengthens the overall aesthetic. Admittedly, this comes at a cost of legibility – it is not the most intuitive watch to read. It takes a while to get used to, so reliability will be an issue if one is rotating between different watches in his or her collection. More surprising is the case size, which at 42 mm is massive for Patek Philippe. It is also unusual given the traditional case design, although the large case emphasises the slimness of the case. The large size is likely intentional to provide space for the applied numerals, and is perhaps rooted in the large size of the Gondolo pocket watches. Still, one wonders if ...
Time+Tide
Hewn of platinum and with a salmon dial, this is the new crown jewel of the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date model line.The post The Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is Vacheron Constantin’s platinum stunner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
For Vacheron Constantin, 2023 is the year of the retrograde date. The brand kicks off the year with three references featuring this unusual complication, led by the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface. Vacheron Constantin has a rich history in retrograde displays that dates back almost 100 years, and the Traditionnelle Tourbillon takes things up a notch with a hand-engraved, open-worked dial. Initial thoughts The new Traditionnelle Tourbillon is a tidy little package that tweaks an existing movement to create a surprisingly different watch thanks to an open-worked dial that uses the retrograde mechanism as a design element. The result is a watch that is recognisable as a Traditionnelle Tourbillon – it has many of the hallmarks of the line – but one that instantly stands apart. The new look also compliments the largish case well. Size-wise the new tourbillon is almost identical to the standard Traditionnelle Tourbillon with a conventional dial. But while the standard model feels a little large at 41 mm due to its classical styling, the new model feels more natural in its size thanks to its contemporary aesthetics. In terms of its value proposition, the estimated price of €200,000 is consistent with its stature, if a bit on the high side. It’s slightly more than the brand’s own Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton, a watch that features the same base movement dressed in more elaborate finishing. Of course, it’s not an apples-to-apples comparison since th...
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Orbit Winder Co. Art, Watch Winder & Desk Display All In One Via IFLW As far as watch accessories go, straps, travel cases and storage solutions are usually what takes up our entire supplemental horological budget. It’s not a stretch to even throw watch books and custom watch art into the mix. Let’s face it, a watch winder is probably the last thing you’re thinking about purchasing, if at all. Via IFLW Rarely do you see a watch winder that actually looks visually appealing. Typically it’s just a lazily designed compartment that houses a rotating watch holder. You might as well just have a nice looking watch box and when you feel like wearing a particular watch, pick it up, and be the human watch winder. But the folks over at Orbit Winder Co. might have an intriguing winder that could potentially change our minds. Via IFLW Say hello to the Orbit Winder – a cleverly designed piece of moving art that marries the hypnotizing movement of a tourbillon with the functionality of a winder. The Orbit Winder houses a single watch at its center, and once activated, ...
Quill & Pad
There is something fascinating about jump hour watches, especially when combined with a retrograde minute hand. Reservoir, an expert in this complication, teamed up with LabelNoir and chose Popeye the Sailor Man as its latest theme.
Time+Tide
Watches. They broadly tell the time, but the way in which they do so is where things get interesting. You have your minimalists, which strip things down to the barest of elements: an hour and minute hand. Once you begin to add complications, like a second hand, a chronograph function, day/date apertures, perpetual calendars, and … ContinuedThe post Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
First released in a gold and red variant echoing the 1970s original, the PSR has seen numerous iterations over the last two years. We covered two blacked-out models at the start of the year, one of which had close ties to another reboot – the Matrix franchise. The new Hamilton PSR with a green hybrid … ContinuedThe post Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Tradition is a buzzword in Swiss watchmaking as what we see manufactured today is typically the result of centuries of brand heritage. In the modern era, many novelties are created through age-old techniques, but with design codes and constructions that, perhaps, speak more to the sensibilities of today. Breguet, however, in their Tradition line really … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Would you still love your boo if they had a display torso?
SJX Watches
A young company founded just two years ago, Genus is all about exotic expressions of time. Though the brand is young, Genus cofounder Sébastien Billières is an industry veteran, having established a workshop that specialises in producing complicated movements for major brands exactly a decade ago. The brand made its debut with the GNS1 – essentially a time-only watch made ultra complicated by virtue of its unique time display – a snaking procession of pointers travelling in a figure of eight that create a dynamic tension unlike anything else. Genus has now taken the concept further with the GNS Dragon, which layers a miniature sculpture over the original in the form of a segmented gold dragon. Initial thoughts The rise of independent watchmakers with atypical time displays started two decades ago – personified by brands like Urwerk – so Genus is rather late to the game, but it still made an impressive entrance. The original GNS1 was a fresh perspective in a crowded arena, the very sort of diversity that makes this hobby fun. And the GNS1 is a serious watch in terms of quality and construction – it also did win the Mechanical Exception award at the 2019 GPHG. While the focal point is the intriguing time display, the movement finishing is excellent; not quite artisanal haute horlogerie like Akrivia, for instance, but nevertheless done by hand and done well, particularly in the genre of avant-garde watches. Made of solid 18k gold, the bridges have wide, polish...
Deployant
We take a close look at the rare Roger Dubuis Symphatie Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Bi-retrograde in rose gold with a magnificent black dial.
Deployant
HYT introduces the new FLOW - combining their unique blend of traditional watchmaking with a liquid display system and carrying its own light.
SJX Watches
Breguet is one of the grandest names in watchmaking, and mostly makes watches that are rooted in its history. The aptly named Tradition exudes, well, tradition. Modelled on the souscription pocket watch created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796, the wide-ranging collection has been gently modernised in recent years. The newly-announced Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 continues that trend, with a dark blue guilloché dial against a grey movement. Initial thoughts This version of the Tradition 7097 is possibly my favourite yet, mostly because of the off-centre dial in blue. Engine-turned by hand, the blue dial is striking against the monochromatic movement. And it looks especially appealing when compared against the earlier versions that have plainer and more conventional silvered dials, which offer less contrast against the movement. But as with all other Tradition watches, there’s a nit to pick here: the serial number plaque on the dial makes it look a bit cluttered, especially since the dial is small to begin with. One solution would be to put the serial numbers beside the Breguet logo, as done on the female Tradition Dame 7038. And while I like the retrograde seconds, its position feels awkward as it cuts into the sub-dial. Though intersecting indicators are a feature in some historical Breguet pocket watches, the face of the Tradition is a bit too small to accommodate it comfortably. The white gold case is in classic Breguet style a delicately-fluted ...
SJX Watches
Project Z is Harry Winston’s distinct approach to the luxury-sports. Named after Zalium, a zirconium-aluminium alloy that’s strong, light and resistant to corrosion, Project Z usually combines the exotic alloy with an open-worked dial. The new Project Z14 sticks to the established formula, but in a first for the line, features a retrograde seconds. Initial thoughts At a glance, the Project Z14 would not be remiss among the previous Project Z watches, looking futuristic and avant-garde just like its siblings. Notably, it shares the same sculpted, brushed case and a multi-layered dial accented with the signature Harry Winston shade of blue. The oversized crown guard with triple fluting is inspired by the arch above the doorway to Harry Winston’s flagship store on New York’s 5th Avenue The enhanced sense of depth and structure is what sets the Project Z14 apart from its predecessors. A small tweak that makes for this significant difference is the chamfered bezel, replacing the flat and smooth found on the past offerings. Providing more angles and facets to a case that is already architectural in style, the chamfered bezel blends in perfectly with the various bevels on the case and lugs. With such a modern design, it is no surprise that the case is large – 42.2 mm in diameter and 10.7 mm tall – and suited to contemporary tastes. The openwork dial The visual depth is compounded by the attractive, open-worked dial that boasts a multitude of details. The grid-motif...
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