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Time+Tide
Not only does the M-10 do away with a typical method of telling time, but it also does away with a typical automatic winding system.The post Hublot slides into the future with the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
At 8.8 grams for the manual movement and 10.8 grams for the automatic, it claims to have broken any previous known record – and looks phenomenal too.
Worn & Wound
There’s something special about hand winding a watch. Sure, automatics are great, but the great thing about them is that they don’t really need you to keep doing their job. The most interaction you’d have with the crown on your automatic is maybe setting it should the power reserve run out over a long weekend. Handwinding watches require a bit more work, but that few minutes of winding in the morning before your day begins is a great opportunity to interact with your favorite watch. Romanticism aside, there are some key physical benefits as well. Most importantly being that since there’s no automatic winding rotor section needed for the movement, handwinding movements tend to be thinner and able to be housed in smaller cases that may wear better on your wrist. One iconic brand that’s still actively embracing handwinding watches is Hamilton. With the huge success of their Khaki Field Mechanical, it’s clear that enthusiasts still want handwinding watches, especially when they’re as solidly built, packed with features, and as functional as the Hamiltons below. Let’s take a look at three handwinding Hamiltons in the Windup Watch Shop and what makes them special. There’s something special about hand winding a watch. Sure, automatics are great, but the great thing about them is that they don’t really need you to keep doing their job. The most interaction you’d have with the crown on your automatic is maybe setting it should the power reserve run out over ...
WatchAdvice
The chance to experience the latest 3 day Radiomir from Panerai was too hard to pass up. But how did it hold up, especially comparing it to the 8 Giorni I road-tested a month or so ago? What We Love Vintage styled design aestheticSlim case profile sits flush to the wristTextured dial and aged lumed numerals What We Don’t Thick strap is a little chunkyNo see through caseback3 Day Manual Winding Overall Rating: 8.875/10 Value for money: 9/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 Back in June, I was able to experience the new Panerai Radiomir 8 Giorni that the brand released for Watches and Wonders this year. I was immediately drawn to the distressed look of the eSteel and the blue smoked and textured dial. Check out my review of it here for the full details. So when the opportunity came up to wear the Tre Giorni (three day) version for a couple of weeks, and be able to compare directly to the 8 Days variant, I jumped at the chance. And what better place to photograph a watch with nautical and Navy roots than down by the bay and marina! Seemed fitting to take a naval inspired watch to the marina for some photos First Impressions Now, the differences between the Tre Giorni and the Otto Giorni are not huge, and other than the movement’s power reserve, it’s basically aesthetics. But then the look of a watch is a major factor when it comes to what you choose. It either looks good and resonates with you, or it doesn’t. The first impression of the Tre Giorni is ...
SJX Watches
Amongst the wave of new Royal Oaks just unveiled by Audemars Piguet (AP) is a new “Concept”, the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT. Historically a platform to showcase novel materials and aggressive design, the new Royal Oak Concept (ROC) continues down that route – but more notably contains an all-new and cleverly-constructed rattrapante chronograph movement with automatic winding. Initial thoughts Much like previous models in the ROC line, the new split-seconds chronograph is a bold statement with a chunky, aggressive case, albeit one refined to become more wearable, especially in light of its size – it is the most wearing Concept to date. Paradoxically, the movement within the large-format case was clearly designed with thinness in mind. For a split-seconds chronograph with a big date, second time zone, and automatic winding, the movement measures a modest 8.92 mm high, svelte by the standards of the complications mix. And in contrast to the design (which brings to mind the Richard Mille RM 11), the movement is unusually refined and clever. An example of is the rotor that’s supported by a large central hub, which provides enough space in the middle to house the entire split-seconds mechanism. This serves to both reduce thickness, while simultaneously offering a view of the rattrapante mechanism without being obstructed by the rotor. Deceptively oversized As with most of its counterparts in the collection, the new ROC has a geometrically-shape...
Deployant
Nomos releases a 33mm manual winding Ludwig in black. The smaller case model is designed as a ladies watch with petite secondes.
Deployant
Laurent Ferrier adds a fumé blue dial to their Classic Origin collection. The watch remains in titanium case, and the Manual-winding calibre LF116.01
SJX Watches
A modern take on Omega’s first-ever Speedmaster from 1957, the aptly named Speedmaster ’57 has just been facelifted and upgraded. What was originally a two-counter, automatic chronograph is now a two-counter, manual-wind chronograph. Its aesthetics have been refined, including with a smaller case, coloured dials, and a better bracelet, while the insides have been upgrade with a METAS-certified movement. Initial thoughts While the new Speedmaster ’57 might seem identical to its predecessor that was introduced almost a decade ago, it is entirely different. The latest release retains the same retro style with its “Broad Arrow” hands, straight lugs, and flat-link bracelet, but everything else has been redesigned. Continuing Omega’s stylistic direction for 2022, the new Speedmaster ’57 is offered in bright, metallic-finish dials, including a fashionable olive green. It also encapsulates consumers’ preference for a smaller and thinner case, as well as a quick-adjustment clasp, which will certainly improve wearability. But the biggest surprise comes courtesy of the movement. While the cal. 9300 in the earlier model was automatic, the cal. 9906 in the new model is hand-wind, which results in a slightly thinner case that’s 12.99 mm. With its evocation of vintage chronographs, the hand-wind movement leaves the date feeling somewhat out of place, since it’s a complication traditionally associated with practicality instead of good, old-fashioned aesthetics. At U...
WatchAdvice
What we love: Split Second Complication with 100m WR- Yes please!Open caseback displaying manual winding movement Beautifully laid out dial What we don’t love: Thickness, some may find this hard to wear under the cuff Could do without cutout numbers on the dial (2,4,8 and 10)Due to the design of the top sapphire crystal glass, cannot see the tachymeter scale properly when looking directly at the dial Overall rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 It’s not often you get a watch for a review and fall in love with it straight away! Well, for me this was the case with the new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph. Released a day earlier than the Watches of Wonders in 2021, Duograph is a part of the Premier heritage line. Originally released in 1943, Duograph is a spilt second complication that pays tribute to three generations of inventors – Léon, Gaston & Willy Breitling. Breitling used the term ‘Duograph’ in 1940 which refer to the complication “Chronograph Rattrappante”. Design: Breitling Duograph is offered in stainless steel or an 18K Red Gold case. The case size is 42mm with a thickness of 15.3mm and lug to lug measurement of 50mm. The variant we are reviewing today is the stainless steel model with the sunray blue dial. Duograph had a fixed bezel and the Cambered sapphire (glareproofed both sides) acts as a bezel on its own. This Sapphire crystal top glass has a thickness of 3mm which adds to the o...
WatchAdvice
The Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”, a timepiece clouded in such mystery that its existence was all but forgotten, until recently. The story behind this timepiece goes back to 1970, where after the iconic El Primero movement was produced by Zenith, the manufacture also produced a prototype for a manual winding chronograph. This chronograph model was housed in a blackened steel case, which was quite rare during the ’70s. The manufacture produced only a handful of these concepts, with the watch never making it into full production. Soon after, the quartz crisis hit, which forced Zenith’s El Primero savior Charles Vermont to store all the plans and designs for mechanical watches including El Primero designs in a secret walled off attic in the manufacture. Just imagine though, if this beautiful all-black timepiece was never to be uncovered by the manufacture! Luckily this wasn’t the case, as in 2019 when Zenith began celebrating their 50th anniversary of the El Primero Chronograph caliber, the team at the manufacture decided to go through all the plans, designs, and parts that they found in the secret attic. Among the numerous items hidden away, was a box that contained the original prototype of this special black chronograph model. A model that hasn’t been seen by anyone since the early 1970s. The Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” project is a remake of the original 1970 model. Zenith, however, decided that instead of faithfully reproducing a replica of...
SJX Watches
The tourbillon regulator first found its way into the Royal Oak in 1997, with what was then a novel automatic movement with a hammer winding mechanism. Audemars Piguet has just announced the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41 mm, a nod to the 1997 original, but with a twist – it’s the first Royal Oak equipped with a flying tourbillon. Launching in three variants, the new model is superficially similar to the existing Royal Oak tourbillon – it is very much the octagonal watch – but it is notably different, both in aesthetics and mechanics. From left to right: pink gold, steel, and titanium Immediately, the titanium version stands out, not only because the metal is used sparingly by the brand, but also because the dial has a grained finish instead of the conventional tapisserie guilloche. And it is powered by the newish cal. 2950, a self-winding movement, no doubt a subtle reference to AP’s status as a pioneering maker of wristwatch tourbillons – the brand introduced the first ever automatic tourbillon wristwatch in 1986. The Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in titanium Initial thoughts The Royal Oak is an appealing watch in most guises – usually the simpler the better – not just for its design but also the complex and sophisticated case finish. And the tourbillon in titanium is particularly distinctive for its clean, modern dial that goes well with the industrial-chic style of the case design. Importantly, this is not a mere facelift. It’...
Deployant
A timepiece shrouded in mystery. Its existence has eluded collectors and Zenith collaborators alike for decades. As the legend goes, in 1970, not long after Zenith debuted the groundbreaking El Primero calibre, the manufacture had produced a prototype of a manual-winding chronograph, housed in a blackened steel case – a rarity for the time. Only Read More
Quill & Pad
When Piaget introduced the manual wind Caliber 9P at the 1957 Basel Fair, at only 2 mm in height, it was considered an impossibility. Three years later, in 1960, Piaget stunned the watch world once again with Caliber 12P, an automatic movement that broke world records for its svelteness. What does that have to do with a vintage watch Martin Green saw? Find out here.
Time+Tide
Tennis players are well known for being ambassadors of various watch brands. Serena Williams has recently been spotted playing with her Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph during matches, Roger Federer with his Rolex Sky-Dweller (when his match is over), as well as Rafael Nadal with his RM 27-03 Manual Winding Tourbillon Rafael Nadal Edition. Gael … ContinuedThe post Gael Monfils just smashed the sh*t out of a $500k USD Greubel Forsey GMT Sport appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Grand Seiko released a 'new' cushion case and modified manual winding movement with the 2019 SBGK series. The SBGK series consisted of 3 limited edition models, and 3 regular production models.
SJX Watches
Originally introduced in stainless steel and red gold earlier in the year, Blancpain has just unveiled the top of the line Villeret Ultraplate 6605, now in platinum with a deep blue dial in an 88-piece limited edition. Ultra plate is French for “ultra flat”, and it aptly describes the line, which includes both automatic and hand-wound models. The new Villeret Ultraplate 6605 is essentially the hand-wound, time-only version of the self-winding (plus date) Ultraplate 6223 that’s a decades-old mainstay in the Blancpain line-up. At 40mm wide and just 7.39mm high, the Ultraplate 6605 is compact on both dimensions and exceedingly elegant. It’s also slightly larger but thinner than the automatic 6223. Entirely polished, the platinum case is done in typical Blancpain style, with a thin, double-stepped bezel and slim, short lugs that allow the watch to wear smaller than expected. The deep blue dial has a simple sun-ray finish and features applied Roman numerals in white gold, along with a pair of elegant, open-worked leaf-shaped hands – a tiny detail but one that lightens the dial. Powering the watch is the hand-wound cal. 11A4B. Though a new movement, it is based on the automatic Frederic Piguet cal. 1150 introduced in 1988. The 11A4B is essentially an enlarged, hand-wind variant of the cal. 1150, with a diameter of 27.8m versus the 1150’s 26.2mm. Some of the enlargement is thanks to wider base plate and bridges, while retaining the original architecture – explain...
Revolution
Montblanc’s Heritage collection gets a big, small limited edition of 38 pieces powered by the manual-winding Minerva MB 62.00 calibre.
SJX Watches
Long offered in a dizzying range of iterations – all priced extremely affordably – the Seiko 5 Sports collection has, for the longest time, enjoyed stardom in the segment of watches below US$200. The affordability of the range and its core features – automatic winding, day and date, water resistance, a durable case and bracelet, plus the recessed crown at four o’clock – have been a gateway drug for aspiring watch enthusiasts who have never owned a mechanical timepiece. The Seiko 5 Sports line-up has just been streamlined, and now consists of five core variants, each conceived for a specific style of dress. The entire line-up will be made up of 27 specific models. All the watches are essentially “diver-lite”, looking much like Seiko’s “SKX” scuba diver’s watches but not built to the same robust standards. The new Seiko 5 Sports collection is centred on a common watch design, sharing the same case, rotating bezel, hands, and dial design. And the movement used across the line is the self-winding cal. 4R36. All the redesigned models are identified by the new Seiko 5 logo that has the “5” rotated 45 degrees to the left. The first Seiko 5 Sports from 1968 What seems to be missing from the revamp is a new version of the popular Seiko 5 Sports “field watch” that has a distinctive, military-inspired design and has long been a perennial favourite for first-timers to the watch world. Given Seiko track record in swiftly iterating a model into do...
Revolution
The Lange 1’s 25th anniversary celebrations continue with the launch of a special version of the watch that gave the icon an automatic winding mechanism: the Lange 1 Daymatic “25th Anniversary”.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Last week we kicked off our series on the ultimate watch glossary - well, now it’s back and slightly more complex. Read on if you want to know what really makes your watch tick … Mechanical watch, manual or automatic There are two types of mechanical watch, and the difference comes down to … ContinuedThe post The ultimate watch glossary – the intermediate edition, feat. wheels, pinions and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The new Grand Seiko Elegance collection which marks the 20th anniversary of Spring Drive, reveals a new manual-winding thin dress series. The collection is made up of four different models, with the most talked about model, the Platinum SBGZ001 with a hammered case and snowflake dial.
Revolution
Vacheron Constaintin showcases its exceptionally elegant mastery of simplicity with the all-new Traditionnelle Manual-Winding Collection Excellence Platine.
Revolution
Vertex, of the revered ‘Dirty Dozen’ league of watchmakers, returns this year with the MP45 Monopusher Chronograph in both automatic and manual versions.
Deployant
Grand Seiko's new slim design in the Elegance Collection. Four new watches in a new case design with a new manual-winding caliber, 2 with urushi dials.
Time+Tide
There are certain (and few) movements in watchmaking that truly define a brand. Seiko’s Spring Drive is one of them. Unveiled by the Japanese manufacturer in 1999, it was four years later – after the inclusion of an improved automatic winding system and longer power-reserve – that the smooth sweeping calibre was adopted into the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Made for adventuring over and under seas – the Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive GMT Limited Edition SBGE245 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Oris’ manual-winding 10-day power-reserve movement now comes with a universally appealing GMT function in the Caliber 114.
Revolution
Richard Mille pioneered new roads in the creation of watch movements when it released three automatic-winding watches with titanium movement parts.
Deployant
2017 marks the 60th anniversary of the Piaget Altiplano – a timepiece that is famed for its slim profile and elegant good looks. Back in 1957, Piaget made a significant impact in the category of dress watches with its ultra-thin movements. The watch, which features the legendary 9P movement, is simply phenomenal. The manual-winding movementRead More
Revolution
It is impossible to overstate the importance of the calibre 9452 MC in the history of Cartier’s high watchmaking department. Those unfamiliar with the evolution and progress of Cartier Fine Watchmaking will see the calibre 9452 - a manual-winding flying tourbillon - as just another reference in Cartier’s vast panoply of complicated movements. It’s not […]
Revolution
Carl F. Bucherer has been retailing watches since 1919, and in 2008, the firm introduced its own manufacture calibre, the CFB A1000 self-winding movement –one of the very few automatic movements in production powered by a peripheral rotor. For many enthusiasts, the CFB A1000 movement and its variants are the cornerstone of the Bucherer watch […]
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