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Display vs Solid Caseback

Sapphire window vs engraved metal. Haute-horlogerie standard since 1985 vs the Submariner / Daytona / Speedmaster heritage.

We Went Hands-On with the New Releases from LVMH Watch Week, and These are Our Favorites Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hublot Jan 25, 2023

We Went Hands-On with the New Releases from LVMH Watch Week, and These are Our Favorites

The new releases from LVMH Watch Week came to New York City last week, and of course the Worn & Wound team was there to check them out. It was the first big batch of new releases in 2023, and Bulgari, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith all brought a variety of watches to display. Here are initial impressions from Blake Buettner, Kat Shoulders, and Zach Kazan. Kat Shoulders  My favorite watch from the LVMH Preview was the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. There were no doubt higher end horology pieces at the preview, but as far as watches I’d be ready to buy on the spot, this one won the day for me. I’ve been known amongst the Worn and Wound crew to not be a huge titanium lover, and quite honestly, I’m perfectly OK with that. The metal typically isn’t my favorite to wear due to the lighter feel. However, the grade 2 titanium that TAG uses felt incredibly nice in person and high quality. Maybe it was the sand blasted finishing as well, but something just really struck me about this particular Aquaracer. The finishing, the feel, the bezel action…it all just comes together perfectly in my opinion. The older I get, the more comfortable I am in this hobby saying that quartz is actually really convenient. Add the ability to charge the movement via solar power, and you have a really great tool watch you literally never have to worry about. The grayed out Aquaracer shutter dial that we’ve become familiar with along with the ice blue hands and text is eye-catc...

De Rijke Returns to Miffy Collaboration One Year Later with New Dial Colors Worn & Wound
De Rijke Returns Jan 16, 2023

De Rijke Returns to Miffy Collaboration One Year Later with New Dial Colors

One year ago we showed you the delightful De Rijke Miffy Moonphase, a playful take on De Rijke’s distinctive design language honoring the iconic Dutch cartoon character created by Dick Bruna, Miffy. We remarked then about the watch’s universal appeal beyond the character thanks to the exquisite execution of the character etched into a brass plate alongside the moonphase display. This year, De Rijke returns to the concept with three new dial colors that once again breathe new life into Bruna’s uniquely Dutch creation.  The Miffy character has been incorporated into the design of the moonphase disc rotating underneath the dial, which is visible through an oversized aperture that dominates the top half of the dial. The character, which is a bunny, appears within the moon itself, with a slew of stars trailing. The entire design has been laser etched out of brass, polished and black rhodium plated. The recesses are then filled with different colors of lume, creating not only a vibrant illustration, but also an impressive sight in the dark. We’ve talked about our feelings on cartoon characters within the confines of watches before in this editorial, and sadly I neglected to mention the original De Rijke x Miffy as an example that works. According to Laurens de Rijke, the brand’s founder, it’s a reminder that we needn’t always take ourselves too seriously, explaining: “ For me though, it makes a lot of sense, the world of watches is one that is often very serious...

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel Jan 2, 2023

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel

In an unexpected, end-of-year announcement, Audemars Piguet unveiled the Code 11.59 Starwheel, reviving the wandering hours complication that had been absent from its catalogue since 2003. Inspired by a 17th century clock, the wandering hours made its way into wristwatches thanks to Audemars Piguet (AP), which debuted the first wristwatch with the display in 1991. Retaining the familiar three-disc hour display, the new Starwheel is nonetheless an entirely different watch from the compact original. Powered by an in-house movement contained in the Code 11.59 case, the Starwheel has physical presence by virtue of its size, but also a surprising degree of refinement thanks to the excellent finishing of the dial and case. Initial thoughts With a modern look defined by dark colours and instrument-like numerals, the Code 11.59 Starwheel looks pretty much the same as it does in photos – but it is far more appealing than expected. In the metal the watch has an impressive degree of visual detail, particularly the polished bevels on the dial components, and a reassuringly solid feel, all of which give it a great deal of tactile appeal. The refinement in terms of visual detail also translates into the movement, which is in-house both in terms of the base and module. Although it functions identically to the original Star Wheel, the Code 11.59 model has an improved display mechanism. Instead of the periodic rotation found in the original model, the discs rotate continually throughout ...

The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is a truly high-end digital watch Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Dec 31, 2022

The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is a truly high-end digital watch

When I think of digital watches, my mind immediately goes to a display carousel stocked with black plastic quartz watches priced at $9.99 at a discount superstore. What I don’t think of is the upper echelons of high horology, where the crafting of mechanical masterpieces is akin to religion. Yet here is where the breathtaking … ContinuedThe post The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is a truly high-end digital watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cheap Bastard: The Stauer 1930 Dashtronic is a digital automatic watch you can have for just US$179 Time+Tide
Dec 17, 2022

Cheap Bastard: The Stauer 1930 Dashtronic is a digital automatic watch you can have for just US$179

Editor’s note: Whether David is a bastard is still up for debate, but the fact he is cheap is irrefutable. Kidding aside, David loves solid watches at lower price points and therefore is always on the hunt for lesser discussed hidden gems in the under A$500 category. His latest pick: The Stauer 1930 Dashtronic. Here at CB, … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Stauer 1930 Dashtronic is a digital automatic watch you can have for just US$179 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde SJX Watches
Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Dec 15, 2022

Up Close: Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde

While Blancpain is best known for its retro dive watches and triple calendars, the brand’s catalogue includes a surprisingly broad range of complications, especially for a brand of its scale (but the fact that the brand is part of Swatch Group clearly helps). One of its most interesting recent complications is the Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde, the first Blancpain watch with either a jumping hours or retrograde display. Despite the lengthy name, the Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde, from now on simply THSMR, is a simple watch on its face, but one executed in an elaborate manner with details that speak to its quality. The dial is champlevé enamel with a symmetrical time display and “floating” flying tourbillon, while the movement has a six-day power reserve and bridges finished with guilloche. Initial thoughts Unlike most of Blancpain’s complications that formal and busy, the THSMR is an elegant watch with an almost minimalist design. The fired enamel dial has a figure-of-eight display that gives it almost perfect symmetry, except for the charmingly quirky hour window that is off-centre but just right. And up close the tourbillon appears to be “floating” thanks to a clear sapphire lower bridge. It is a fairly large watch as most Blancpain watches now are, though it’s not too thick at just over 11 mm high. But the size is grounded in its mechanics: the cal. 260MR is a sizeable movement with an impressive six-day power r...

Gold rush: Three discontinued gold watches you can have for a bargain Time+Tide
Dec 9, 2022

Gold rush: Three discontinued gold watches you can have for a bargain

Solid gold watches can be wildly expensive, and this is partly why the consumer base largely focuses on stainless-steel references. But those who are willing to do the leg-work can track down some really interesting vintage gold watches that, in the scope of what they offer, can be had for quite a bargain. As a … ContinuedThe post Gold rush: Three discontinued gold watches you can have for a bargain appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

CHEAP BASTARD: The Timex Marlin Automatic 40mm affordably scratches the green itch Time+Tide
Timex Marlin Automatic 40mm affordably Dec 3, 2022

CHEAP BASTARD: The Timex Marlin Automatic 40mm affordably scratches the green itch

EDITOR’S NOTE: Whether David is a bastard is still up for debate, but the fact he is cheap is irrefutable. Kidding aside, David loves solid watches at lower price points and therefore is always on the hunt for lesser discussed hidden gems in the under A$500 category. His latest pick: The Timex Marlin Automatic 40mm Two apologies … ContinuedThe post CHEAP BASTARD: The Timex Marlin Automatic 40mm affordably scratches the green itch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 is handsome and powerful Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 Nov 15, 2022

HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 is handsome and powerful

I recently tackled the new IWC Portugieser Chronograph IW371620, a solid summer watch that brings the youthful summer vibes to a classic and storied collection and manufacture. But a chronograph is not always everyone’s flavour. Unless you are dead-set on using a mechanical and analogue timekeeper for timing cars on the racetrack, or more realistically … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 is handsome and powerful appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Formula 1 X Mario Kart SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Oct 13, 2022

TAG Heuer Introduces the Formula 1 X Mario Kart

With a near-unparalleled history in auto racing, TAG Heuer’s latest is a light-hearted take on its storied past. Inspired by the famous plumber now driving a go-kart, the Formula 1 X Mario Kart pair are both limited-edition chronographs, each opposing ends of the price spectrum. The base model is the Formula 1 X Mario Kart Chronograph with an “Easter egg” date display, while the top-of-the-line model is a variant of TAG Heuer’s tourbillon-chronograph with the COSC-certified Calibre Heuer 02T movement. Initial thoughts Pop culture adds levity to mechanical watchmaking and usually enhances the appeal, which is why the approach is a familiar one. Gerald Genta did it, and more recently RJ-Romain Jerome. TAG Heuer did it for the first time last year with the Connected × Super Mario that sold out swiftly, proving the appeal of the Italian plumber. But the Connected was a smartwatch, while the pair of new releases are both mechanical, so they have appeal for watch enthusiasts. The Formula 1 Chronograph is basic but affordable, and livened up by subtle-but-clever Mario elements, like a date display with symbols from the game instead of numerals. The Formula 1 chronograph The tourbillon, on the other hand, is essentially an amusingly whimsical iteration of TAG Heuer’s standard tourbillon-chronograph, while not costing that much more, making it a more compelling proposition than the somewhat plain regular-production model. Mario around the track Inspired by the Nintendo...

VIDEO: Smash and grab theft of MoonSwatch suitcase the latest symptom of watch crime epidemic Time+Tide
Oct 12, 2022

VIDEO: Smash and grab theft of MoonSwatch suitcase the latest symptom of watch crime epidemic

During the early hours of Monday morning, there was a brazen smash-and-grab raid at the Swatch store in Amsterdam. After forcing entry, a hooded man broke into a glass cabinet and made off with the window-display suitcase containing the entire BIOCERAMIC MoonSwatch collection. Police were called to the crime scene but, at the time of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Smash and grab theft of MoonSwatch suitcase the latest symptom of watch crime epidemic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: Urwerk ‘Every Moment Counts’ in Singapore SJX Watches
Urwerk Every Moment Counts’ Oct 6, 2022

Exhibition: Urwerk ‘Every Moment Counts’ in Singapore

Coinciding with the launch of the UR-120 with its novel, split-cube display, Urwerk is documenting its journey from the very beginning with an exhibition in Singapore that’s part of the brand’s 25th anniversary celebration. Organised in collaboration with its Asian retailer The Hour Glass, Every Moment Counts offers a look at the brand’s history through its historical products as well as intriguing archival photographs, all straight out of the brand’s museum. Other items on show include sketches, trophies, and memorabilia that offer a full picture of the brand and its two founders, Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei. At bottom right is a sketch of one of the brand’s foundational models, the UR-101 Reflecting the brand’s philosophy and house style, the exhibition has a futuristic aesthetic, such as the neon green and black display for the historical timepieces that brings to mind the luminous time display found on many of the brand’s watches. But the exhibition is also about nostalgia and includes a “Watchmaker’s Studio” with soft lighting that showcases photos from the founders’ childhood, which played a major role in shaping their avant-garde approach to watchmaking. The exhibition includes landmark watches like the UR-103 and UR-201 For technically-minded enthusiasts, the “Immersive Room” displays the exploded movement of the UR-111C on the wall, revealing in detail the workings of the intriguing cylindrical drum display. The UR-111C Every Mom...

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Mark XX is a huge upgrade with its new dials and bracelet Time+Tide
IWC Mark XX Oct 4, 2022

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Mark XX is a huge upgrade with its new dials and bracelet

Whether or not you are a seasoned collector, every collection needs a staple watch. A watch that excels in its simplicity, its versatility and reliability providing a rock-solid foundation within your collection. For many, the watch of choice to fill that role has been an IWC Mark. Robust, legible and handsome with its military and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Mark XX is a huge upgrade with its new dials and bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection Aug 9, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection

The ability to display two time zones on a single dial has cropped up quite a lot over the course of history, but it was rarely more than a niche curiosity before the advent of flying. Now, the idea of a pilot’s watch without a GMT complication feels somewhat incomplete, and that’s why the new … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An exhibition of Breguet masterpieces Time+Tide
Breguet masterpieces Hello one Jul 22, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An exhibition of Breguet masterpieces

Hello one and all, it’s Borna once again, delivering event news from Melbourne! With the coldest months upon us, a crowd gathered at the warm Monards boutique on Melbourne’s Collins Street to check out their display of rare Breguet pieces, among many other wonderful watches. The attendees also had a chance to win some wonderful … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An exhibition of Breguet masterpieces appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Louis Vuitton’s travel clock comes with its own tailor-made trunk Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton s travel clock comes Jul 21, 2022

VIDEO: Louis Vuitton’s travel clock comes with its own tailor-made trunk

People often conflate wristwatches and horology as being the same thing. But the latter, in fact, encompasses hundreds more years of history and tradition . The art of luxury clocks, whether for travel or for display on a mantlepiece or desk, is often reserved for lofty Swiss brands who have made significant advancements in clock … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Louis Vuitton’s travel clock comes with its own tailor-made trunk appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 Launched Jul 17, 2022

Hands On: IWC Portugieser Automatic 40

Launched in 2020 as a more wearable version of IWC’s signature large-format dress watch, the Portugieser Automatic 40 is a no-frills three-hander executed in a solid, workmanlike manner that is typical of the brand. Though novel for the current Portugieser line – it’s the smallest model in the lineup – the new automatic isn’t a wholly new idea. IWC did offer a “small” Portugieser some two decades ago, but Portugieser watches since then have been well over 40 mm in diameter. The large size of the various Portugieser models result from the movements, which either have a seven-day power reserve or chronograph, plus a few others that are even more complicated. That left a gap for a “small”, uncomplicated Portugieser. And so it has returned, combining the typical restrained aesthetics of the Portugieser line and the technical quality expected of IWC. Initial thoughts The Portugieser Automatic 40 is a wearable watch with a distinctive but classical aesthetic. Unlike its larger and more complicated counterparts in the Portugieser line, the 40 mm automatic is simple but still has the same recognisable aesthetic as well as a solidly engineered movement. It’s moderately sized, though a little thick due to the movement inside. The movement is a good one, which makes the case height acceptable, though a slimmer case would certainly be more appealing and also echo the vintage original more closely. The cal. 82200 Importantly, it is also eminently affordable. Con...