Deployant
Review: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116500LN
We review the new Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116500LN in stainless steel with ceramic bezel. A model that Rolex fans have been wanting for a long time!
Results for Plasma High-Tech Ceramic
3,633 articles · 40 videos found · page 40 of 123
Deployant
Revolution
A Visit to Vacheron Constantin
The oldest continuously operating house of haute horlogerie in the world has all the old-school, high-touch craftsmanship you’d expect - with some surprising new tricks up its sleeve. Visiting any watch manufacturer is an education. So it was with both eager anticipation and a touch of anxiety that I accepted an invitation from Vacheron […]
Revolution
World Wide Elegance With Girard-Perregaux’s WW.TC Lady
For most watch brands it is still a struggle to create high end watches for contemporary ladies. Smaller watches, often set with obligatory diamonds for a so called extra feminine touch, and of course a “handy, because you never have to wind it”-quartz-movement make up the majority of what many brands offer ladies these days. […]
Time+Tide
New releases from Girard-Perregaux, Laurent Ferrier, Vacheron Constantin and more
A lot of variety last week, with everything from high-end métiers d'art to accessible luxury skeletonised pieces.
WatchAdvice
Hands-On: Can The Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Preserve The Collection’s Identity Without A Chronograph?
The new Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport removes the collection’s defining chronograph complication, but retains its high-frequency El Primero heart. I take the collection hands-on to see whether it can establish its own identity while still remaining a true Chronomaster! What We Love: Retains the Chronomaster identity Meaningful high-frequency dial pattern Well-proportioned for everyday wear What We Don’t: No alternative strap options Limited dial-and-bezel combinations Shark-tooth track feels busy on darker dials Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.8/10 What happens when a brand introduces a model that removes one of the defining elements from an already established collection? Well, that is exactly what Zenith has done with the latest addition to one of the brand’s most refined collections to house the El Primero movement: the Chronomaster. While we were initially expecting a different take on the signature chronograph model, the release of a simple three-hand edition was not something we anticipated, but it is certainly welcome. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) The story behind Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport begins much earlier than the collection itself, tracing back to the launch of the El Primero in 1969. As the world’s first automatic integrated high-frequency chronograph calibre, the El Primero quickly established the technical foundation that would later ...
Teddy Baldassarre
11 Of The Best Open-Heart Watches
From simple dress watches to a high-frequency chronograph, these watches put their mechanical appeal on display.More
Monochrome
Introducing - The Return of the Full-Platinum Bracelet on a Limited A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual
Like a few other high-end watch brands (AP, VC, PP…), A. Lange & Söhne has its fair share of ultra-collectable watches. The elusive steel Lange 1 is one of them. The Grand Complicatio,is anothern ultra-rare, ultra-complex watco. But you might be surprised to know that one of the most desirable items by A. Lange & […]
SJX Watches
Zenith Sets Sights on Higher Ground with Layoffs
After several years in the red and challenging market conditions predicted, Zenith is seeking higher ground by focusing on high-end watchmaking, eliminating about 200 jobs in the process. As reported by Swiss newspaper Le Temps, chief executive Benoit de Clerk broke the news to employees on Thursday, citing the strong Franc, US tariffs, and weak demand from the Middle East and Asia. Zenith’s pivot was foreshadowed by the excellent GFJ line launched last year, and comes in the wake of Jean Arnault taking charge of the LVMH’s watch brands, namely Zenith, TAG Heuer, and Hublot, after having engineered Louis Vuitton’s ascent into fine watchmaking. The middle market, which Zenith flees, is particularly brutal – expensive to play in and competitive. Zenith is not the only one to abandon it, Mr de Clerk also referenced the closure of Montblanc’s Le Locle factory, as that brand too shifts focus upmarket. Zenith’s greatest strengths, its mature, capable manufacturing base and wide distribution, are oversized for the brand’s production volume. Unable to feed this beast or put it to work, Zenith will be cutting about a hundred jobs, roughly half of its workforce, in Le Locle, and a further hundred in retail and distribution. In 2024, LVMH announced plans to grow Zenith’s Le Locle manufacture to supply other group brands with movements. Hublot had been using Zenith movements for a decade already, and LVMH envisioned an entire catalog of Zenith-made “in-house” move...
Monochrome
Introducing - Ochs und Junior Releases its Perpetual Calendar Holiday Edition 2026
Most high-end perpetual calendars are fragile creatures composed of hundreds of components, delicate levers and springs. The problem with many is that they are susceptible to damage, especially if the crown or pushers are manipulated during the watch’s date-change cycle. Master watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin tackled the problem with the Perpetual Ludwig, developed for Ulysse Nardin […]
Hodinkee
Just Because: Nine Incredible Watches I Saw Inside The Archives At A. Lange & Söhne HQ
The small German town of Glashütte is paradise for watch nerds. Some people don’t quite believe how densely packed the watchmaking is in this little town in Saxony, with the biggest German horological names literally next door to each other. But undoubtedly the most iconic name in Glashütte watchmaking (and German high horology in general) is A. Lange & Söhne, and the manufacturer rarely opens its doors to outsiders to take a closer look at what the brand is up to. Earlier this year, during the rainy month of July, a few of us on the Hodinkee editorial team hopped over to Glashütte to see what was happening within the secretive walls of the Lange, and to say that the visit was unforgettable is surely the understatement of the century. There’s still lots to come from our visit, but one of the best moments of the few days I spent there was, well, looking at watches—very special watches though, pulled from the Lange archives. The Designs Behind The Revival Kicking it off are three of modern A. Lange & Söhne's inaugural silhouettes in yellow gold, representing the then-new designs unveiled by Günter Blümlein on October 24th, 1994. That day, of course, marked a pivotal moment that not only revived the A. Lange & Söhne name after a long period of dormancy, but also set a new standard for what high-end watchmaking meant in the mid-nineties, especially among its Swiss contemporaries. The Lange 1 could just be the most iconic model from the brand. It’s the onl...
Monochrome
First Look - The new Renaud Tixier Monday Skeleton
Renaud Tixier is an independent brand born from a partnership between Dominique Renaud, the veteran inventor and co-founder of movement developer Renaud & Papi, and Julien Tixier, a talented young master watchmaker. Working from their high-complication workshop, the formidable duo is determined to rethink seven core horological principles, with seven watches named after the days […]
Monochrome
Introducing - H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Aventurine Saquon Barkley Edition
H. Moser & Cie. has a particular way of approaching high complications, often combining elaborate mechanics with pared-back design – think Moser’s perpetual calendars. The Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton, introduced in 2022, was quite different; it featured a complex skeletonised movement, housed in the robust steel case of the brand’s sportier collection. For its latest […]
Monochrome
Introducing - Union Glashütte brings the More Compact Belisar Chronograph Speedster 2026
Founded in 1893 by Johannes Dürrstein in the Saxon town of Glashütte, Union Glashütte set out to make high-quality German watchmaking accessible to a wider audience. Today, part of the Swatch Group, the brand combines traditional craftsmanship with distinctive design and value for money. Its affinity for classic cars is captured in the retro Belisar […]
SJX Watches
The Biver AB is Time Only and All Quality
Having found critical and commercial success with the Automatique, Biver is continuing with the time-only format, but (slightly) more accessibly. The Biver AB is a manual-wind, three-hand watch, but keeping to the high-end approach of the Automatique. The presentation is discreet but precious. While the dial and movement are solid gold, the case and bracelet are steel. The bracelet is notable for being the same as that found on the Automatique, and is arguably amongst the best in class. Initial thoughts I am a fan of the Biver Automatique and was a little sceptical of the idea of a more accessible time-only watch. The AB, however, surprised on the upside. Like the Automatique, it is executed extremely well. The dial, for example, is an extremely fancy interpretation of the “sector” dial, rendered in onyx and yellow gold. The bracelet adds to the appeal significantly as well. It’s essentially the same bracelet found on the Automatique, but in steel. The facetted links are impressively finished, and more importantly, sit comfortably on the wrist. Pulling off a bracelet that is both functional and finely done is an achievement in itself. That this is standard kit for the watch adds to the appeal. The movement is a little less elaborate than that in the Automatique, but remains tangibly high end; it even has a grande sonnerie-style winding click. All the details are attended to, with bonus decorative flourishes here and there. Though a three-hander, the movement is fairl...
Hodinkee
Business News: Former AP CEO François-Henri Bennahmias Brought In As Consultant To Hublot
François-Henri Bennahmias, the high-profile executive who served as the CEO of Audemars Piguet for more than a decade and grew annual sales beyond $2 billion, is being tapped as a consultant to Hublot in a surprise move by the LVMH-owned watch brand. Bennahmias was recently brought on to advise and consult for the brand, according to people familiar with the matter. Julien Tornare, the long-time LVMH executive who has served as Hublot's CEO since 2024, remains in the role, according to people who asked not to be named because Bennahmias' appointment hasn't been publicly disclosed. The Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons Bennahmias's move to consult for Hublot, founded in 1980 by Italian entrepreneur Carlo Crocco and known for its innovative, irreverent approach to watchmaking, including rubber straps on precious-metal timepieces, is an unexpected shift. The former professional golfer, who led Audemars Piguet until 2024, launched The Honourable Merchants Group in 2025 and promised to bring watch brands to the new luxury conglomerate that also included an electric bicycle company. While Bennahmias held discussions to acquire stakes in existing watch brands, none have been completed. THMG, as the luxury constellation is known, said in July that it would create a brand called 'N3W5' that will launch at Dubai Watch Week in 2027. François-Henri Bennahmias at an event in Switzerland launching The Honourable Merchants Group. LVMH, meanwhile, has been making c...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo
The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo returns to Carlo Crocco’s original 1980 design, when Hublot was the name of a watch made by MDM Genève. The Tributo’s 38 mm gold case restores the original 12-screw bezel, while a Zenith-derived automatic replaces quartz beneath an austere black dial. The yellow gold variant sticks close to the original design, while its white gold sibling pairs a black onyx dial with blackened bezel screws for a high-contrast monochromatic look. Initial thoughts While today Hublot is almost synonymous with the Big Bang and other large, sometimes extravagant watches, the brand’s origin as a single model made by MDM Genève is rooted in Italian elegance. The original quartz-powered model from 1980 was the first watch to pair a precious metal case with a rubber strap, a then-unheard-of configuration that was nonetheless perfectly suited to la dolce vita in the Italian sun. The Classic Fusion Tributo honours founder Carlo Crocco’s original design, complete with 12 bezel screws and a low-profile feel on the wrist, while being sized up to contemporary standards and equipped with a competent automatic movement courtesy of sister brand Zenith. The white gold version’s onyx dial, an upgrade relative to both the original and the black lacquer of the 2023 remake, is another difference that taps into the ongoing stone dial trend. But it does so in a low-key way that makes sense for the design and doesn’t feel faddish. Curiously, the yellow gold version s...
Fratello
Is The Tudor Pelagos 39 Better Than A Rolex Submariner?
Put the spec sheets for the Tudor Pelagos 39 and the Rolex Submariner side by side, and the two watches look almost suspiciously similar. Both are roughly 40mm steel or titanium dive watches with in-house automatic movements, ceramic or aluminum bezels, and depth ratings most owners will never come close to testing. On paper, this […] Visit Is The Tudor Pelagos 39 Better Than A Rolex Submariner? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Time for Quartz?
A Cartier Cheich selling for US$3.38 million has put quartz in the spotlight, but does the huge result mean much for the broader market? On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, we discuss the appeal of unusual Cartier shapes and why Patek Philippe’s new Gondolo “Ladies First” makes a practical case for quartz at the high end. Brandon also shares impressions from a visit to Manufacture La Joux-Perret, where solar quartz calibres account for a quarter of annual movement production. Despite the Citizen-owned manufacture’s Japanese technical foundations, these calibres are almost entirely Swiss-made, with more hands-on assembly than one might expect. We also discuss A. Lange & Söhne’s upcoming Singapore exhibition, dedicated to chronographs and classic cars. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Fratello
Does Finishing Make A Watch Movement Work Well, Or Is It Just A Beautifying Trick?
These days, “finishing” is a buzzword. Talk to fans of high horology, and you will most likely hear terms like “anglage,” “black polish,” and “perlage.” It seems like everything is about finishing nowadays, which made a master watchmaker tell me that decorating every last piece of a movement is not the essence of watchmaking. He […] Visit Does Finishing Make A Watch Movement Work Well, Or Is It Just A Beautifying Trick? to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner - The 1990 Monte Carlo Automobiles Centenaire You Probably Never Heard Of
Decades on, we’re still in awe of cars like the McLaren F1, Jaguar XJ220 and Bugatti EB110, yet other high-profile projects of the same era suffered a very different fate. Such is the misfortune that has befallen this Monte Carlo Automobile Centenaire, despite looking very promising on paper when it was first announced! Announced on […]
Hodinkee
Business News: Movado Selling Ebel To F.P. Journe And Chanel In Deal Heralding Comeback Of Once Mighty Swiss Brand
Ebel, once one of the most successful and top-selling Swiss watch brands, which has fallen into relative obscurity under the ownership of Movado Group, is being sold to a consortium of high-profile buyers, including François-Paul Journe and Chanel, who plan to revive the Ebel marque with hopes of returning it to its former glory. Vintage Ebel chronographs. Photo courtesy of Phillips; credit: James Kong. Movado Group, Inc. says it entered into a binding agreement to sell a 95% interest in the Ebel brand for $66.5 million to a strategic buyer group led by Geneva-based Montres Journe SA, with the participation of French luxury house Chanel and Pierre Jacques, a long-time industry executive. Jacques, who previously headed De Bethune for more than a decade, will take over as CEO of Ebel while Movado, with shares publicly listed on the New York Stock Exchange, which purchased the brand from LVMH in 2004, will retain a 5% stake in the business when the deal is completed, the parties said in a statement. The agreement underscores the growing business interest in reviving faded luxury Swiss watch brands once revered by watch consumers. Breitling paid more than CHF 60 million to acquire the Universal Genève brand and archives and relaunched it as a high-end luxury marque earlier this year. Ebel was once a major player in the industry, thriving during the quartz crisis era of the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s under Pierre-Alain Blum, a third-generation leader of the family-owned busi...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Sexy, Secretive Toledano & Chan Oshinobi, With Commentary From Phil Toledano
This story has been republished from our friends at Hodinkee Australia. What We Know Toledano & Chan, the horological design collaboration between artist and collector Phil Toledano and watch designer Alfred Chan, is back with their latest brutalist architecture-inspired watch, the Oshinobi. This one throws a new concept into the mix: concealment. O-shinobi is a Japanese term used to describe a person of high rank traveling incognito, which should give you a hint at how this Toledano & Chan watch works. It’s a secret watch, fitted with a horizontally sliding cover that reveals an organically shaped and concave dial set with two carats of snow-set diamonds. To fly even further under the radar, the crown is hidden, accessible from the underside of the case at 12 o’clock. The inspiration for the Oshinobi's dial and crystal shape also comes from this idea of concealment, inspired by natural geodes that look like any other rock until they’re cracked open to reveal a world of crystals festooning the inside. The result is this architecturally aggressive bracelet shape that hides an organically shaped, irregularly diamond-studded secret inside. Phil, Jamie, and I sat down over the weekend to talk about the Oshinobi, and he tells me that he’s long been fascinated with vintage secret watches that conceal their dials. Hearing conversations in the watch community about safety concerns about traversing cities with flashy watches, he sees the Oshinobi as the antidote. Phil Toled...
Worn & Wound
Can AMT Bridge the Gap Between Off-the-Shelf and In-House?
As a watch enthusiast, one should be a movement enthusiast too, right? Sure, everyone loves a handmade, ornately finished, über-high-end independent movement labored over for hundreds of hours, but I’m talking about something more industrial. The movements for the masses, so to speak. If you’ve been into this hobby for even a short time, you’ve likely seen models featuring movements from ETA, Sellita, La Joux-Perret, Soprod, Miyota, Seiko, and maybe a couple of others. Well, there is another whose name you might have bumped into here and there, poised to become a much larger player: Manufacture AMT (Advanced Mechanical Technology). Manufacture AMT was founded in 2018 and is owned by Sellita, though it operates as a separate company. This is, admittedly, somewhat confusing, as they clearly share IP, as shown in the movements. Regardless, AMT largely does white-label development for brands and offers only a small, nonpublic catalog to third parties. The AMT5000 chronograph, used by Hanhart, Oak & Oscar, Furlan Marri, and a few others for several years, is a good example of what AMT is all about. Based on the SW500 but improved in many ways, AMT5000 variants feature column wheels and flyback functionality as standard features across automatic and manual configurations with different subdial layouts. We all love a hand-finished movement, but what about the ones that power most of our watches? As a confessed movement enthusiast, I reached out to learn more about AMT’s ...
Fratello
Hands-On With The DUG Purist Typ 1 And Typ 2
One of the most common complaints in the watch community concerns current pricing. Indeed, the COVID-19 period affected the prices of luxury items. Meet Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte GmbH, or DUG, which claims to bring the traditional craftsmanship of Glashütte watchmaking without charging the traditional high prices. This is a bold claim, so let’s find out […] Visit Hands-On With The DUG Purist Typ 1 And Typ 2 to read the full article.
Deployant
Review: L. Leroy Vox Temporis Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon
L.Leroy introduces a new collection at the very high end of the complications spectrum with their new Vox Temporis Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon.
Teddy Baldassarre
The 16 Best Square Watches For Standing Out In A Round World
From slim dress watches to rugged divers and high-end sports models, these watches show how much can be done with four sides.More
Time+Tide
Cracking open the paintbox: Earthen shows its true colours with the Summit MK2
Earthen expands its ceramic Summit range with an affordable trio of colourful additions, continuing its democratisation of ceramic watches
Fratello
Earthen Co. Breaks New Ground With More Colors For Its Summit MK II Collection
When Earthen Co. debuted with the Summit, I was immediately intrigued. The combination of ceramic cases with the famous IWC Mark-series design silhouette made the watches instantly recognizable and stylish. But the Hong Kong-based brand did not compromise on specs and made them proper tool watches. Considering the friendly price of well under €1,000, it […] Visit Earthen Co. Breaks New Ground With More Colors For Its Summit MK II Collection to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - Moritz Grossmann Injects a Contemporary Air into the Benu Power Reserve
Bearing the name of one of the founding fathers of 19th-century German watchmaking, Moritz Grossmann is today an independent high-end Glashütte watch manufacture producing low-volume, hand-finished pieces. Marking the bicentennial of the founder’s birth, Moritz Grossmann presents two more contemporary, dark-themed versions of the elegant Benu Power Reserve. The Benu was the first watch to […]
Hodinkee
Business News: Gallet’s Return Heralds Renewed Battle For Mid-Tier Priced Watch Segment
Backed by Breitling's House of Brands group, Gallet's return was hotly anticipated and closely scrutinized. Priced between $2,900 for a three-hand Flying Officer model with date and about $6,700 for the vintage-inspired 'Classics' models, replete with Breitling B09 hand-wound calibers, the revived brand's pricing at Breitling boutiques is certainly aggressive. Gallet's rebirth and price-category decision mark the most high-profile and ambitious attempt by the Swiss watch industry to reclaim a space it once owned but has largely ceded in recent years to so-called 'boutique' or micro-brands that have filled the gap left by traditional Swiss brands moving upscale.Over the past decade, brands have climbed the value-category ladder even higher, making fewer watches at higher prices. The so-called mid-tier premium—or luxury watches with an MSRP between $2,000 and $5,000—was once dominated by Swiss brands from Omega to Breitling to TAG Heuer and Jaeger-LeCoultre. And while TAG Heuer still produces plenty of watches in the category, including the solar-powered quartz Formula 1, much of its development and marketing resources have been focused on new pricier versions of classic chronographs housed in titanium or other lightweight materials including the highly innovative, but eye-wateringly expensive, Monaco 'Evergraph' retailing at more than $28,000. Several of the new Gallet watches are available on a steel bracelet that is the same used on some Breitling models. Photo Cre...