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Tudor’s Classic Black Bay 58 Gets an Update SJX Watches
Tudor s Classic Black Bay Apr 17, 2026

Tudor’s Classic Black Bay 58 Gets an Update

Tudor’s bestseller just got a new update. The new Black Bay 58 builds upon last year’s burgundy version, coming in the beloved black dial with gilt accents configuration. Not only did the iconic vintage-inspired diver get slimmer and better proportioned, but it also come with a choice of three different straps. Initial thoughts Ever since Tudor was rejuvenated the brand became almost synonymous with the well-built and equally well-styled Black Bay collection. The model line grew to include various complications, from GMT functions to chronographs all while retaining the core vintage-coded aesthetic.  This streamlined “BB58” format was first introduced in 2024 with the Black Bay 58 GMT. The watch featured sleeker case proportions, a METAS-certified movement and a slimmer, more practical crown.  A burgundy version of the time-only Black Bay then followed and now Tudor adapts arguably their most iconic configuration to this updated format.  Due to its proportions, overall construction and colour scheme the watch strongly resembles the vintage Rolex Ref. 6538. The watch was famously worn by Sean Connery’s James Bond in the first ever Bond movie, Dr. No. Tudor’s new case proportions work so well with the vintage-inspired black and gilt dial that the new reference is guaranteed to be a big hit with Bond fans.  Notably, the new Black Bay 58 comes with a choice of two steel bracelets and a rubber strap. Apart from the Oyster-inspired faux-rivet three-link bracelet ...

Introducing – Back to the Future with the Hautlence Retrovision 64 Monochrome
Hautlence Retrovision 64 One Apr 17, 2026

Introducing – Back to the Future with the Hautlence Retrovision 64

One of the most surprising proposals at Watches & Wonders this year might well be Hautlence’s Retrovision ’64. A limited-edition watch, the Retrovision ‘64 is a playful tribute to a 1960s small-screen science-fiction communicator but endowed with serious horological content. Designed as a bridge between two eras, the Retrovision ’64 combines a retro-futuristic sci-fi comms […]

Live from WWG26: new releases from A. Lange & Söhne Deployant
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 17, 2026

Live from WWG26: new releases from A. Lange & Söhne

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Lange continues their refresh path with two new releases (3 references) for WWG26 for Lange. We covered the press releases with commentary earlier. Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen is the star of their show this year. This watch is not new but, with the first released in 2016. The movement is now new with [...] The post Live from WWG26: new releases from A. Lange & Söhne appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Fratello’s Top 5 Releases From Watches And Wonders 2026 Fratello
Apr 17, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Releases From Watches And Wonders 2026

Another Friday, another list! With Watches and Wonders nearing its end, it is time to look back at some of the show’s best releases. This week saw an avalanche of new watches, and it was sometimes hard to keep up. As always, the anticipation was palpable. But did the brands deliver? For now, we will […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Releases From Watches And Wonders 2026 to read the full article.

Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko’s Nature-Inspired SBGZ011 Spring Drive Limited Release Shows The Shape of Water Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Nature-Inspired SBGZ011 Spring Apr 16, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko’s Nature-Inspired SBGZ011 Spring Drive Limited Release Shows The Shape of Water

Deep in the heart of a primeval forest lies a waterfall whose fresh spring waters are unspoilt by man, and whose mystic beauty is an endless source of inspiration - for the band of artisans who quietly engrave by hand some of the most intricately detailed watches in the world. It’s not a Studio Ghibli movie: the Tateshina Falls are real, located in central Japan’s Nagano Prefecture, which is also home to Grand Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio. And at Watches and Wonders 2026, a limited release pays tribute to this serene locale with a Spring Drive model that, according to Grand Seiko, “conveys time’s eternal flow in nature.”  The Masterpiece Collection SBGZ011 takes Grand Seiko’s sharp-edged 44GS case - rendered in platinum - and imbues it with hand-engraved lines from lug to lug, around the bezel, and entirely within the dial (save for a thin minute ring). These dashed silver lines flow in colliding swirls, bursting forth and blending into each other with seeming chaos; Grand Seiko suggests that they represent spring water bubbling forth from below the earth’s surface. On the bezel and the case’s flat surfaces and intersecting ridges, the patterns appear even more dramatic, resembling petals of a monochromatic flower. And on the dial, the white-gold hands and markers provide smooth, brilliant contrast, while the Grand Seiko and Spring Drive logos are carved and inset in their own boxes.  The manual-winding Caliber 9R02 is Grand Seiko’s thinnest Spri...

First Look – Cartier Unveils a Trilogy of Santos-Dumont with Precious Metal Bracelets Monochrome
Cartier Unveils Apr 16, 2026

First Look – Cartier Unveils a Trilogy of Santos-Dumont with Precious Metal Bracelets

As they say, necessity is the mother of invention. In 1904, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont approached Louis Cartier, complaining that pocket watches were impractical in flight – he needed both hands on the controls. Louis Cartier’s solution not only marked the birth of an icon but is also widely considered the first purpose-built men’s wristwatch. […]

Live from WWG26: new release highlights from Zenith Deployant
Zenith DEPLOYANT - Apr 16, 2026

Live from WWG26: new release highlights from Zenith

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors We are now in Zenith, and had our hands-on with the Zenith new releases in WWG26. First an update to the G.F.J which was released last year. This year, it is released in yellow gold with a bloodstone dial and the sub-dial is now in a green backed mother of pearl. But my pick is [...] The post Live from WWG26: new release highlights from Zenith appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Live from WWG26: the new release from Ferdinand Berthoud Deployant
Ferdinand Berthoud Apr 16, 2026

Live from WWG26: the new release from Ferdinand Berthoud

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Ferdinand Berthoud flipped their movement released 10 years ago in the FB 1. The new watch is Chapter 1 Chronomètre FB 2TV is like an inverted version of the FB 1. But of course, as this is a Ferdinand Berthoud, the entire movement is reworked to flip over, and the entire movement is now visible [...] The post Live from WWG26: the new release from Ferdinand Berthoud appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Introducing: The Formex Reef 39.5mm Automatic COSC 300M Forged Carbon Fratello
Formex Reef 39.5mm Automatic COSC Apr 16, 2026

Introducing: The Formex Reef 39.5mm Automatic COSC 300M Forged Carbon

I am a fan of Formex. I like that the brand attempts to create the best-built watch within its chosen price category. The designs aren’t for everyone, but the build quality is undoubtedly excellent. I’ve had hands-on experience with Formex’s Field and Reef models. On both counts, they left me impressed, particularly given their asking […] Visit Introducing: The Formex Reef 39.5mm Automatic COSC 300M Forged Carbon to read the full article.

Introducing A Glow-In-The-Dark Watch: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume Fratello
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Apr 16, 2026

Introducing A Glow-In-The-Dark Watch: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume

You can never have enough lume, right? Well, I certainly enjoy my Chronoswiss Timemaster with its full-lume dial. But what about an even fuller-lume watch? Meet the completely lumed IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume (IW505801). You might have seen a prototype, but now it’s time for a run of 250 watches in IWC’s […] Visit Introducing A Glow-In-The-Dark Watch: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume to read the full article.

Watches & Wonders: Oris’ 24-Year-Old Product Design Engineer Just Reworked a Classic – This is the Sleek New Artelier Complication Worn & Wound
Oris 24-Year-Old Product Design Apr 15, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Oris’ 24-Year-Old Product Design Engineer Just Reworked a Classic – This is the Sleek New Artelier Complication

Oris first introduced its Artelier Complication in 1991 alongside the Caliber 581, which notably featured a moonphase module developed in-house by the brand. The release marked another significant moment for the maison in its commitment to manufacture movements following the quartz crisis. The model’s presence ultimately faded but received new life in 2017 with an updated design that featured a more modern, cleaner style with slimmer, tapered lugs, and a redesigned bezel. At Watches & Wonders, we get the next evolution of the Artelier Complication.  The newest incarnation gives us another redesign from the 2017 edition while keeping the focus on highlighting the romantic moonphase. This updated take on the Artelier Complication comes from 24-year-old Lena Huwiler, Oris’s new Product Design Engineer. Huwiler has been able to achieve the perfect balance between honoring the model’s place in the history of the brand and propelling it forward with a design that will resonate with her generation. An old soul at heart, Huwiler admits she does not just find inspiration online but still appreciates architecture, crafts, and interior design. She clearly brings the duality of these sensibilities into her design for the new Artelier Complication. Here, Huwiler has given an Oris classic a modern, urban profile and reworked the moonphase display designed by and for the next generation of watch collectors. The major update here is in the complication and how it is presented thank...

Hands-On With The Bausele Elemental Fratello
Bausele Elemental It’s not often Apr 15, 2026

Hands-On With The Bausele Elemental

It’s not often that this writer, who is Australian, gets to spend time with a watch from an Australian watch brand. But when my managing editor, Nacho, tasked me with a hands-on review of the Bausele Elemental, it was an opportunity to learn more about what allows this brand to straddle two worlds. Australian-based Bausele […] Visit Hands-On With The Bausele Elemental to read the full article.

Introducing: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliners In Two New Streamlined Sizes Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Streamliners Apr 15, 2026

Introducing: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliners In Two New Streamlined Sizes

The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner is a series that showcases the brand’s capability to make sporty but elegant and avant-garde timepieces. Now, for Watches and Wonders 2026, we’re getting Streamliner Two Hands models in a smaller package, and I’m all for it. I have written about my desire to see more modern watches reflecting […] Visit Introducing: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliners In Two New Streamlined Sizes to read the full article.

First Look – The Yellow Gold Grand Seiko 62GS Sakura-Wakaba SBGH376 Monochrome
Grand Seiko 62GS Sakura-Wakaba SBGH376 Grand Apr 15, 2026

First Look – The Yellow Gold Grand Seiko 62GS Sakura-Wakaba SBGH376

Grand Seiko is renowned for its nature-inspired, handcrafted dials that capture Japan’s seasonal landscapes. The annual flowering of the cherry blossom heralds the arrival of spring and inspires profound reverence in Japan as a symbol of life’s fleeting beauty and renewal. Grand Seiko captures the evanescent beauty of the cherry blossom for a lifetime on […]

Tudor Ascends the Throne with the Monarch SJX Watches
Tudor Ascends Apr 15, 2026

Tudor Ascends the Throne with the Monarch

Tudor celebrates 100 years with the surprising Monarch. Historically one of the more obscure models in the brand’s catalogue, the earlier generation of Monarch was retired in the early 2000s. Now the name makes its return, but in an entirely different form, with the latest iteration bearing an unexpected emphasis on movement finishing and quality – with a display back that shows off Tudor’s first-ever decorated in-house movement. Initial Thoughts It is no secret that Tudor had its fair share of hit and misses in terms of design, especially during the 1990s. The original Monarch arguably fell into the latter category as an unfortunate blend of sporty and elegant design elements, which resulted in a rather unappealing and mostly forgotten product.  The new Monarch, on the other hand, has almost nothing to do with his ancestor, save for the name. The new timepiece reimagines the beloved if quirky California dial, improves greatly in terms of movement finishing and manages to blend well both classy and sporty elements.    At first sight one might be tempted to assume the Monarch is a dress timepiece, but elements like the metal link bracelet, angular overall profile and screw-down crown give it a sporty, rugged edge.  Tudor made an interesting choice with the dial colour, going for a brushed sand-hued piece paired with black applied indices. The California configuration paired with the small seconds at six o’clock is dressy, but the angular case makes for a thoroug...

Introducing: The Piaget Polo 79 In White Gold With A Sodalite Dial Fratello
Piaget Polo 79 Apr 15, 2026

Introducing: The Piaget Polo 79 In White Gold With A Sodalite Dial

One of my absolute favorite watch releases in recent years is the Piaget Polo 79 - more specifically, the 2024 version in yellow gold. Later, Piaget introduced a white gold version, along with a bicolor model in white and yellow gold. Now, during Watches and Wonders 2026, Piaget introduces another Polo 79. But this time, […] Visit Introducing: The Piaget Polo 79 In White Gold With A Sodalite Dial to read the full article.

First Look – The New, Compact 36mm A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 15, 2026

First Look – The New, Compact 36mm A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar

The Saxonia Annual Calendar is a relatively young but important member of A. Lange & Söhne’s repertoire. Launched in 2010 as an “everyday” complication, the annual calendar offers a more practical, slightly less complex alternative to the brand’s high-end perpetual calendars while maintaining Lange’s classic Saxon aesthetics. Initially available in 38.5mm cases – but discontinued […]

Blue Steel: Chopard L.U.C 1860 SJX Watches
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Apr 15, 2026

Blue Steel: Chopard L.U.C 1860

To mark 30 years of its Fleurier manufacture, Chopard has introduced a new variant of the watch that started it all. The new Lucent steel L.U.C 1860 adds a blue dial to the brand’s flagship time-only dress watch. The L.U.C 1860 is short on novelty, being merely a new colour for a model that debuted in 2023, but the incremental improvements result in a sleek and sophisticated steel dress watch. Initial thoughts The L.U.C 1860 is very traditional dress watch in the sense that nothing feels exaggerated. At the same time, it doesn’t feel boring thanks to its guilloché dial and the obvious quality of the movement within. While there are some who believe that a proper dress watch must come in precious metal, the popularity of the steel-and-salmon L.U.C 1860 released in 2023 proves there’s an alternate perspective.   The brand’s proprietary ‘Lucent’ steel makes the watch more accessible, especially in the age of near-record gold prices. Despite the use of a comparatively humble material, the case finishing remains high-end - though the design is generation behind the new case profile introduced for the Grand Strike. Since the original L.U.C 1860 debuted in 1997, it has always been a small watch. For a time, that left it out of step with consumer preferences, especially in the early 2000s, but tastes have once again shifted back in favour of smaller cases. In this context, the vintage-leaning 36.5 mm size feels just right. That said, while it makes sense for Chopar...

IWC Expands Ingenieur 35 Collection SJX Watches
IWC Expands Ingenieur 35 Collection Apr 15, 2026

IWC Expands Ingenieur 35 Collection

True to form, IWC has expanded the Ingenieur Automatic 35 with two new references: a blue dial that completes the mid-sized lineup’s colour palette, and the first gem-set Ingenieur of the modern era. Both are straightforward line extensions but should prove commercially successful, especially in the context of current trends favouring smaller watches. Initial thoughts Vintage watch enthusiasts and buyers with smaller wrists will appreciate these additions to the catalogue, though many mainstream watch buyers dismiss any watch under 36 mm out of hand. That instinct is understandable, but misleading here: integrated bracelet watches wear more substantially than their diameters tend to suggest, and the Ingenieur 35 is a watch best understood on the wrist rather than on paper. With the introduction of a diamond-set two-tone reference, it appears IWC is positioning this size as the unisex choice for both men and women while exploring new formats for a broader appeal. New references in the Ingenieur lineup have arrived in a recognisable pattern. Reintroduced in 2023, the current-generation Ingenieur draws on the design language of Gerald Genta’s original but in a 40 mm steel case, offered from launch with silver and black-dialled variants. The ever-popular blue dial joined the 40 mm lineup a year after the collection’s refresh. The 35 mm size is following a similar pattern after launching last year with black and silver dial options. Inevitably blue The ref. IW324907 will ...

Watches & Wonders: The Chopard L.U.C. 1860 Chronometer, Like the Original from Three Decades Past, May be Worth The Wait Worn & Wound
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer Like Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: The Chopard L.U.C. 1860 Chronometer, Like the Original from Three Decades Past, May be Worth The Wait

Louis-Ulysse Chopard founded his eponymous watch company in 1860, but it took over 100 years for the brand to truly come into its own. In 1996, and after three years of development, the company debuted its own in-house movement. The wait seemed to have been worth it. The L.U.C 96.01-L immediately drew acclaim for beautiful finishing, embracing the microrotor, and COSC certification. It, and the subsequent L.U.C. 1860 dress watch, marked a sea change from reliance on third parties to true independence, arriving at a resurgence in fine mechanical watchmaking. Thirty years later, the L.U.C. family has expanded into dozens of variants, complications, and movements. But at 2026’s Watches & Wonders, Chopard pays tribute to 30 years of in-house manufacturing with a continuation of that vaunted original. The L.U.C 1860 Chronometer uses the same dial and microrotor movement from 1996, albeit with their own upgrades and unique design tweaks.  The intricate white-gold dial features guilloché finishing in the center, emanating in scalloped waves from the Chopard logo and nameplate. The concentric circles are separated by thin bands of white gold, and delicate spear-shaped markers point inward, toward the dauphine hands. At 6 o’clock, the small-seconds dial echoes the twin-circle pattern of the overall dial, and Chopard specifically mentions the lack of a date window “to preserve purity.”  Where the first L.U.C. 1860 had a white dial with gold accents, this Chronometer wears...

Watches & Wonders: Bremont Races to the Moon with the Space-Themed Supernova Chronograph Worn & Wound
Bremont Races Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Bremont Races to the Moon with the Space-Themed Supernova Chronograph

Because of the Artemis II launch earlier this month, the moon is all the rage again. That’s why the timing for Bremont’s Supernova Chronograph feels so auspicious: not only because it was designed with the stars in mind, but because it might actually go to the moon itself.  To promote the Supernova-which is an entirely new family, and not just a single release-Bremont is partnering with the aerospace company Astrolab, which is planning to send a FLIP (FLEX Lunar Innovation Platform) rover to the moon’s surface. In a future spacefaring reality, the Flexible Logistics & Exploration (FLEX) rover can traverse lunar and Martian terrain, delivering cargo with a 30-kg payload. That’s more than enough room to fit a Supernova, which will net Bremont as the first watch permanently placed on the moon’s surface. The Supernova Chronograph ticks the boxes of a terrestrial sports watch: with 100-meter water resistance, stainless-steel construction, and an integrated bracelet and optional rubber strap, it carries a bold presence that seems much tougher than the current lineup. The primarily brushed case, measuring 41mm and featuring smaller polished contrasts, is cushion-shaped, harkening to the midcentury enthusiasm for space exploration. The black bezel is made from ceramic and cut into ten sides.  The Supernova’s dial features contrasting triangular arrows and a geometrically aligned waffle pattern. On the main dial they’re both black, but in the subdials the triang...