Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance 'Manufacture Edition'
A monochromatic makeover makes this the sleekest resonance watch from the brand.
Results for Moebius Watch Oils
20,311 articles · 5,821 videos found · page 401 of 872
Hodinkee
Monochrome
The Evergreens – The Complete History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Series
Is there anything new to say about the origins of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak? As the watch marked its 50th Anniversary in 2022, countless stories, insights, and personal accounts surfaced worldwide, deepening our understanding and enriching watchmaking culture. Yet to kick off today’s look into the ultra-thin 39mm “Jumbo” editions of this legendary series, […]
Worn & Wound
Omega Relaunches the Railmaster in Two New Dial Variants
Originally released in 1957 as part of Omega’s “Professional Line” trilogy, the Railmaster joined the Seamaster and Speedmaster as the brand’s offerings to professionals in railway, automotive racing, and ocean diving, respectively. Where it lacked in naming convention creativity, the original Railmaster excelled in innovation, with anit-magnetic properties that were, at the time, jaw-droppingly effective, protecting the watch from magnetic fields of up to 1,000 gauss, where other pieces tended to cap out at 60 gauss. It’s no surprise, then, that the Professional Line trio has remained among Omega’s most popular and iconic models, and 2025 sees the launch of two new stainless steel Railmaster models. Both new Railmasters measure in at 38mm in diameter and wear all-new gradient dials. The first variant bears no text details save for the Omega logo below the 12 numeral and the Railmaster name in script above the 6, with a gray dial that fades into a black gradient. The second option shakes it up with a beige-into-black dial that squishes the Omega logo and Railmaster logo together under the 12, and places a small seconds subdial above the 6. Both models feature Super-Luminova on the numerals, indexes, and hands, and come on a leather strap-black for the gray-to-black model and Novonappa brown for the beige-to-black version-or a stainless steel bracelet. Inside, Omega’ Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806 movement proves that it’s leaps and boun...
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in Crystallized Titanium
Initially launched as a unique piece in a crystallized titanium case for Only Watch 2023, the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph was then added to the catalog, most recently as a limited edition in ceramic. Now the model returns in its original crystallized titanium livery, accented in lime green. Under the hood is a high-beat Vaucher chronograph movement, also used by Parmigiani Fleurier and Richard Mille. The split-seconds is the flagship of the Monaco collection, impressive inside and out – with a price to match – but seemingly runs counter to the brand’s established direction of affordable sports watches. Initial Thoughts The latest iteration of the Monaco split-seconds is the best yet, price aside. The variants of the model released between the one-off for Only Watch and this felt incomplete without the crystallized titanium case. The material is visually and technically interesting, and its resemblance to forged carbon fits the automotive theme; lime green accents notwithstanding, it’s a good-looking watch. Image – TAG Heuer A rattrapante is a natural fit for an auto racing-focused brand like TAG Heuer, but the ambitious CHF145,000 price is confusing, given TAG Heuer’s efforts toward making the Swiss-made tourbillon affordable. The Monaco split-seconds itself is excellent – the movement especially so – but an affordable rattrapante would be more in line with the brand’s recent direction. While the base movement is shared with costlier Richar...
Fratello
Introducing: The Impressive TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph In TH-Titanium
TAG Heuer has done a good job of showing the versatility of the Monaco over the past couple of years. With its series of classic race-inspired models, the brand has treated fans to some striking timepieces. But as it turns out, the Monaco is also the perfect platform for more futuristic creations. The watch’s late-’60s […] Visit Introducing: The Impressive TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph In TH-Titanium to read the full article.
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TLDR Watch News 3-22-2023 | New Watches, Rolex Collections & More
Monochrome
First Look – The Tough-As-Nails Certina DS Action Diver 40.5 (Incl. Video)
D… and S…. two simple letters that, when put together, mean the world to Certina. They indicate the brand’s famous Double Security system, used to waterproof its watches for over 6 decades. Introduced in 1959, the technology behind the system to increase a watch’s resilience is still in use today, even though it now benefits […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925
Longines introduced the Zulu Time models to its aviation-influenced Spirit collection in 2022, and the watch’s dual-time complication, stylishly bold design, and undeniable value proposition have made it one of the brand’s biggest hits of the 2020s, spawning additional models in an array of sizes, materials, and color executions. The Spirit Zulu Time is now such a fixture in the Longines portfolio that it almost seems like it has always been there, despite being a relatively recent addition to the lineup; it doesn’t even precede the Covid pandemic, which, of course, somehow seems like it happened only yesterday and yet also in another time and dimension entirely. However, all of that said, Longines’ history of making dual-time or GMT wristwatches like the Zulu Time reaches back much further - 100 years, to be exact. And it is that century milestone to which Longines pays tribute with the latest member of the family, unveiled today: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. Longines Zulu Time History: Longines produced its first “Zulu Time” wristwatch in that eponymous year of 1925, in the heart of the Art Deco era. Very dissimilar to the round-cased modern descendant, that watch had an angular, square case and ornate hour numerals, along with a third hand to indicate a second time zone and, most notably, a Zulu flag emblem with a red letter “Z.” Where did this iconography originate? In military jargon, “Zulu” is the radio transmission articulation for t...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Rolex Perpetual 1908 on the Fantastic Settimo Bracelet
While all eyes were focused on the release of the new Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller collection, Rolex had a sumptuous surprise up its sleeve. Introduced in 2023 to replace (well, not officially, but still…) the Cellini collection, the elegant Perpetual 1908 premier dress watch returned to Watches & Wonders 2025 with a gold bracelet. Not any […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Selten Grand Feu Enamel “Prism Violet”
Let’s take a quick inventory of some of the small watch brands making enamel dials of some kind. This is a segment that’s become ultra competitive in the wake of anOrdain, the Glasgow based indie that popularized this style of artisanal watchmaking in a more accessible way, coming on the scene several years ago. There’s 5280 Watch Company, based in Colorado and creating a truly unique enamel dial that is also decorated with an old fashioned engine turning technique. Then there’s Statera, based in Brazil, a brand that makes grand feu enamel dials that are meant to evoke midcentury classics from Patek Philippe and others. There are a bunch of brands who don’t specialize in enamel, but have dabbled in it, one way or another. We can include De Rijke & Co. here, who produced a limited run of champlevé enamel dialed watches with designs by Guy Allen last year. There are others: Louis Erard and Seiko have had notable enamel releases in the last few years, and we can even include James Lamb in the conversation, although the handmade silver cases he produces push his watches just a bit outside that tempting sub $5,000 price point. This much enamel would have been unthinkable in a pre anOrdain world, and I think it’s important to recognize that at the outset of any discussion of a new enamel dialed watch, because any new watch in this category will be seen, perhaps unfairly, as a challenger to anOrdain’s crown. Their waitlist now reportedly stretches to 2029, so i...
Teddy Baldassarre
Certina DS Action Diver 38mm Review
The Certina DS Action Diver 38mm is a dive watch that has been largely off the radar of many U.S. watch enthusiasts until somewhat recently but is having a moment in our current era, in which sporty utility, striking colorways, value for money, and understated sizing reign supreme in the watch market. How much do you know about the DS Action Diver, including the meaning of “DS,” or about the not-so-famous but very historic Swiss watch brand that produced it? Read on, and you’ll be up to speed. Origins Of Certina Certina traces its roots to 1888, but it wasn’t called Certina back then. That year, a pair of Swiss brothers, Adolf and Alfred Kurth, set up a watchmaking workshop in an annex to their family home in the town of Grenchen (above), initially, to make movements and parts to sell to other watch companies in the region. By 1906, however, they were making enough of their own complete timepieces that they introduced a brand name: Grana, which was a shortened version of the Latin word “Granatus,” referring to Grenchen. The early Grana watches found success, but for several years the Kurth brothers continued to also make and supply movements to other companies; the name “Certina” - another Latin-derived word, from “certus,” for “sure” or “certain” - began appearing on the company’s timepieces in the 1930s. The name, which was also easier to pronounce than “Grana” in more languages, was registered in 1933 and eventually became the c...
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Watch Expert ROASTS Ryan Serhant's Watch Collection TO HIS FACE
![[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Tudor Pelagos Ultra](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/05/TUDOR_PEL-ULTRA_003_web.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Tudor Pelagos Ultra
Every year, the watch industry plays the popular game “my favorite release from Watches and Wonders”. We try to pick unique watches, offer a unique perspective on them, and potentially shine a light on a model that we think deserves the title. However, I genuinely believe that if you told every one of those journalists that they had to purchase a watch announced at the show, roughly half would choose a different piece. They would most likely select something that suits their style better, fits into their collection, or maybe doesn’t shine as the most impressive piece but is still the one they want to take home. I am guilty of this. For two years in a row now, my “forced to purchase” choice has been a Tudor watch. Last year, the Black Bay ‘Monochrome’ made my purchasing shortlist further cemented after I had the chance to go hands-on with it for an extended period. The new black on black color scheme looked great, the METAS-certified caliber is impressive, and that five-link bracelet just wears incredibly well. But while last year’s Black Bay “Monochrome” was simply a new color extension, the Pelagos Ultra redefines the collection while setting a few benchmarks along the way. Touted as Tudor’s most technologically advanced watch yet, it somehow stuffs the stat sheet while remaining wearable. The lightweight case crafted from grade 2 titanium with a grade 5 caseback wears better than the 43mm diameter might lead on. At 14.5mm thick with a lug-to-lug of ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Bauhaus-Inspired Stowa Antea Classic KS Rose Gold and Anthracite
Founded by Walter Storz in 1927, German watch brand Stowa is historically associated with Flieger (pilot) watches. A lesser-known chapter in the history of the brand is its series of watches that embraced the design tenets put forward by the state-run Bauhaus school of design. Produced in 1937 and designed by the reputed dial company […]
Fratello
Retrospective: A Long Hunt For An Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” 105.003 Comes To An End
The older I get, the easier it is for me to pass up buying opportunities, especially when the watch in question isn’t 100% perfect and requires a compromise. I was searching for the right example of an Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” ref. 105.003 for six years, but my hunt recently ended, and it couldn’t have […] Visit Retrospective: A Long Hunt For An Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” 105.003 Comes To An End to read the full article.
Fratello
The New Micromilspec Milgraph Sabotage Edition Gets The Black Badger Treatment
With the Milgraph, Norwegian microbrand Micromilspec released one of last year’s highlights. The brand’s rugged GMT chronograph turned out to be a surprisingly versatile watch that offers great functionality and combines that with a brilliant injection of modern design. The result was one of my favorite hands-on experiences of 2024. In the next step for […] Visit The New Micromilspec Milgraph Sabotage Edition Gets The Black Badger Treatment to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Accessible, New Formex Field Automatic Gen-2
In 2022, following the launch of the Reef dive watch and the casual-sporty Essence, Formex expanded into the field watch segment with the release of the Field Automatic. Housed in a 41mm titanium case with 150m of water resistance, the first iteration featured a range of dial colours, including Charcoal, Petrol Blue, Ash Grey, Mahogany […]
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Watch Expert Reacts to BORING Watchfinder
Fratello
Hands-On With The New 2nd-Generation Formex Field Automatic
Formex is known for packing a ton of punch in relatively affordable watches. The brand’s offerings are rich with features and well made at very competitive prices. None exemplifies this more than the brand’s entry-level model, the Formex Field Automatic. Today, I am delighted to introduce the second generation of the watch. Now, the cynical […] Visit Hands-On With The New 2nd-Generation Formex Field Automatic to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Under €2,500 In 2025
Today, we’re looking at some of the best watches under €2,500 in production right now. This is one of the most contested price points in the watch market, though many brands that previously operated in it have slowly but surely priced themselves out. That said, a handful of microbrands, both new and old, have made […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Under €2,500 In 2025 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces a Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar with a Lapis Lazuli Dial
One of my favorite releases from Watches & Wonders (and one of the best watches Zenith has made in years, in my opinion) was the G.F.J., a study in blue and a celebration of the brand’s 160th anniversary. The G.F.J. is something of a no-expenses-spared dream watch, with a platinum case and optional bracelet that basically doubles the price (because why not?) as well as a finely finished movement and loads of history built into the watch’s story, with a focus on the brand’s historic pursuits in chronometry. When I had that watch on my wrist I wondered how the G.F.J. line might expand, and if this watch was an opening salvo in a more ambitious series of releases to come. I don’t know that we have any answers to those questions, necessarily, with the release of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli today, but there’s certainly some connective tissue between Zenith’s newest novelty and the G.F.J. we saw a few months ago. Looking at the latest Zenith Triple Calendar, it’s impossible not to notice a certain aesthetic similarity to the G.F.J. Both make prominent use of lapis lazuli, one of the most common precious stones used in watchmaking. On the G.F.J., lapis is what makes up the majority of the dial space, with the stone in the main dial nicely complementing the blue mother of pearl in the subsidiary seconds. On this new Triple Calendar, the lapis is truly the star of the show, dominating the dial and only yielding for the three subregisters i...
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli
Continuing with the blue theme for its 160th anniversary, Zenith has upgraded its compact, vintage-inspired chronograph with a natural stone dial. The Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli is a combination of old and new, plus a luxe dial. The watch is equipped with the latest-generation El Primero movement, but dressed in a 1970s design – here upgraded with a dial of lapis lazuli, the same semiprecious stone found on the G.F.J. cal. 135 revival. Initial thoughts I like the basic design of the Chronomaster Original because it’s essentially a remake of the 1969 El Primero, which is a retro design that still works well today. Zenith has made too many exact replicas of the vintage originals, but fortunately the lapis lazuli edition is different. The stone dial sets it apart visually, while also giving it a more refined feel than the typical Zenith. Though simple, the lapis dial feels like a substantive upgrade to an established and appealing design. The upgraded dial, however, comes at a price that’s too steep. At US$22,700, the lapis dial costs almost US$10,000 more than the standard model with a brass dial. The difference is too much and equally difficult to justify. A prototype revived Although the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar a seems like a vintage remake, it is not exactly. Instead, the standard model introduced last year was based on a 1970s prototype that never made it intro production. So it has the familiar 1969 El Primero case and dial la...
Monochrome
Portrait – After Hong Kong, a European Chapter for The Horology Club
The Horology Club, founded in Hong Kong and boasting around 800 members, is now expanding with the creation of a European chapter. This is an opportunity to have a conversation with the founder of The Horology Club Europe, Frank Smits, about the goals pursued as “watch clubs” are spreading worldwide. While brands are focusing on […]
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Watch Expert Reacts to Kevin Hart's NEW $5,000,000 Watch Collection
Time+Tide
McGonigle lifts covers off the Ogma, the masterpiece that sold out sight unseen
Would you buy a watch without knowing what it looked like? Maybe, if it was made by Stephen McGonigle.The post McGonigle lifts covers off the Ogma, the masterpiece that sold out sight unseen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Delma Montego Chronograph Black Editions
In 2022, the Lengnau watchmaker Delma returned the Montego, a bold, versatile chronograph with a racing-inspired edge defined by its prominent external tachymeter scale. Built as a genuine sports watch, it’s ready for adventure on land or underwater, thanks to its robust 200m water resistance. Initially launched in four dial colours, white, black, green, and […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”
Tudor released the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” for this year’s Miami F1 Grand Prix. The watch celebrates the collaboration with the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls (VCARB) Formula 1 team with a 2,025-piece limited run. I got a chance to go hands-on to see what’s what. I was delighted to get this opportunity because […] Visit Hands-On With The New Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
MB&F; Launches an Entirely New Collection for their 20th Anniversary with the SP One
Would you expect anything less from MB&F; on their 20th anniversary than the launch of an entirely new collection? The independent brand founded by Max Büsser has spent the last two decades confounding expectations, delighting enthusiasts and collectors along the way with some of the brazen and creative watch designs of the modern era. The brand’s influence and importance on the modern independent watch scene really can’t be overstated. To date, MB&F; releases have existed on two distinct tracks: the LM or “Legacy Machine” collection, which represents Max Büsser’s idea of a classical watchmaking style (think circular cases, classical complications, and a generally traditional if sometimes highly complex readout of the time), and the HM, or “Horological Machine” collection, which can be described as pure, maximalist creativity. This is where you see watches shaped like dogs, and spaceships, with time read in unusual and unexpected ways. While you’d think that working within two collections in this manner (particularly where one is seemingly unbound by traditional watchmaking rules) Max and his team would have the freedom to create just about anything they set their mind to. In reality, of course, there are always projects that don’t reach the finish line for one reason or another. The SP One (SP is short for “Special Projects”) represents an entirely new product category for MB&F; with the promise of reviving these projects and creating entirely new one...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Vaer G5 Meridian GMT
Before receiving the G5 Meridian, I had what I thought was a clear idea of Vaer in my head: mil-spec watches at an affordable price. Founded in Venice, California in 2016, the brand has built themselves a reputation of earnest capability and practical styling that appeals to budding enthusiasts looking for an everyday watch that leans towards rugged simplicity rather than fast-fashion. Vaer watches have been built in the States since 2018, with their first mechanical piece coming to market in 2019. Whether through my own lack of in-depth research or via social media algorithms showing me exclusively the brand’s field watches for some reason, I had apparently missed the relatively diverse other half of their catalog, spearheaded by the release of their first dive watch in 2020, first solar diver in 2021, and first chronograph in 2022. Since then, they’ve expanded each category into multiple references that cover a wide array of functions and styles, shirking my own narrow-minded ideas and, apparently, their own social media advertising algorithms. Thus, with a heap of welcome and humble surprise, I received the new G5 Meridian GMT and began my Vaer re-education. Unboxing My G5 arrived in a slim navy box with a clean, minimalistic design-appropriate for its price range, but not “cheap”-feeling in any way. I prefer minimal packaging (what the hell am I going to do with all these empty boxes anyways), and Vaer has done a nice job presenting the G5 as a serious, ent...
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